S cotc h W h isk y

NEWS Issue No.48 | spring 2016

The wood makes the whisky.

www.gordonandmacphail.com

CONTENTS 3-4

The Wood Makes The Whisky

5

Featured Range | Connoisseurs Choice

6-7

Featured Whiskies

8-9

Rare Vintage Range

the wood makes the whisky the perfect match of spirit and oak

10-12 Distillery Profile | Caol Ila 13

A-Z of Whisky

14-15 Generations 16-17 Closed Distillery | Littlemill 18

G&M News

19

Where in the World?

Rare Vintage See pages 8-9

GORDON & MACPHAIL ‘The wood makes the whisky’ is more than a statement; it is a philosophy, a Gordon & MacPhail philosophy. At Gordon & MacPhail we believe wood is essential in creating an exceptional single malt whisky. ‘The wood makes the whisky’ campaign provides a rare insight into Gordon & MacPhail’s philosophy and knowledge, honed over 120 years and passed down through the generations of the Urquhart family. Gordon & MacPhail believes that every cask has a fate; each specially selected oak cask is carefully matched to a distillery’s new-make spirit.

‘The future is shaped by what is done today and today is represented by what has been done in the past.’ Nestled at the heart of Scotland’s Speyside region, in the Royal Burgh of Elgin, the family firm of Gordon & MacPhail started from humble beginnings: initially established as a South Street Grocer in 1895. Time and continuity are great gifts; 120 years have allowed four generations of the Urquhart family to master the craft of carefully matching Scotland’s individual distilleries’ new-make spirit with oak. Gordon & MacPhail has become one of the world’s leading single malt whisky specialists, currently bottling more than 300 expressions of single malt whisky under various ranges and are the proud custodians of the largest selection of greatly aged whiskies in the world.

‘The wood makes the whisky’ website (www.gordonandmacphail.com/wood) allows you to explore not only our unique philosophy of matching wood to spirit, but also our cask management and selection methods, as well as our maturation process. The website has a ‘perfect match’ slider tool to help you find your perfect single malt whisky based on your preferred spirit character (‘Delicate’ or ‘Heavy’) and cask type (‘Bourbon’ or ‘Sherry’). Gordon & MacPhail is a custodian to some of the world’s finest and rarest single malt Scotch whiskies. Explore our extensive whisky portfolio on our website – www.gordonandmacphail.com. For more of a flavour, immerse yourself in a video from our selection of tasting note films on our YouTube channel – www.youtube.com/user/GordonandMacPhail.

Gordon & MacPhail’s specially selected casks are sent to working distilleries to be filled with new-make spirit. These are then either left to mature at the distillery of origin or are brought back to bonded warehouses in Elgin to be carefully stowed. Samples are drawn regularly to determine when the whisky meets the firm’s demanding standards: the perfect balance of oak and spirit. Then and only then will the whisky be bottled and presented for sale.

the wood makes the whisky | 03

the cask Whisky in its present expression only exists because of the cask. Each cask is integral to the development of a whisky; it is the interaction between the oak and the spirit that is fundamental to the end result; it is a slow transformation of clear newmake spirit into Scotch whisky, a golden liquid with exceptional flavour. Maturation matters, but as essential as it is, a good whisky requires the perfect cask and really good timing. Each cask is as unique as a fingerprint; choosing the right cask to transform each distillery’s clear new-make spirit can be as complicated as a jigsaw puzzle. 120 years of experience and exploration allows us to excel at match making. From the species of tree to the level of heat charring on the inside of a finished cask: we control every aspect. From branch to barrel, we aim to deliver a perfectly matured whisky time and time again. It is traditional in Scotch whisky production to use casks which have previously held another style of drink in order to season the casks, before filling these with clear newmake spirit. There are two main styles of cask which are used across the industry: bourbon barrels and Sherry casks.

featured range CONNOIsseurs choice In the mid sixties, initiated by whisky pioneer George Urquhart, Gordon & MacPhail made an unprecedented step and launched a range of single malts labelled ‘Connoisseurs Choice’. This ambitious venture offered the world an opportunity to explore the aromas and tastes of single malts which would normally have been used to create blends. The ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ range is an integral part of the Gordon & MacPhail portfolio, complete with some of the world’s most renowned single malts. To this day, the ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ label retains an exclusive aura with an eclectic range of rare and sought-after single malts from over forty distilleries. These whiskies are bottled consistently at 46% ABV, without any colour additives or chill filtration.

Single malts from the following distilleries are bottled under Gordon & MacPhail’s ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ range: European Oak: Quercus Robur Also known as European Oak, Quercus Robur is the wood type traditionally used to manufacture Sherry casks.

Sherry The high acidity and lower alcohol content of Sherry have a unique effect on the ‘virgin’ oak casks, extracting more water-soluble flavours from the staves. These factors combine to make Scotch whisky matured in a Sherry butt or hogshead a unique and unmistakeable experience.

HIGHLAND

SPEYSIDE

Aberfeldy, Blair Athol, Clynelish, Dalmore, Fettercairn, Glencadam, Macduff, Royal Brackla, Teaninich, Tomatin, and Tullibardine

Allt a Bhainne, Auchroisk, Aultmore, Balmenach, Benriach, Braeval, Caperdonich, Craigellachie, Dailuaine, Dufftown, Glen Elgin, Glen Keith, Glen Spey, Glenallachie, Glendullan, Glenlossie, Inchgower, Mannochmore, Speyburn, Strathmill, and Tormore

ISLAND Arran, Jura, and Ledaig

ISLAY

LOWLAND Bladnoch

Caol Ila

American White Oak: Quercus Alba United States of America law decrees that every American bourbon barrel must be manufactured from Quercus Alba. Perhaps more surprisingly, the majority of newly produced Sherry casks are also made from imported American Oak.

the wood makes the whisky | 04

Bourbon Bourbon whiskey is matured in fresh, unused or ‘virgin’ oak casks; these contain concentrated flavour compounds. Each cask is heavily charred to open up the wood grain and speed up maturation. A bourbon barrel produces a single malt with a highly distinctive, sweet, aromatic character accentuated by a vibrant colour. featured range | connoisseurs choice | 05

featured whiskies

The wood makes the whisky.

www.gordonandmacphail.com/wood featured whiskies | 06

CONNOISSEURS CHOICE GLEN SPEY 2004 46%

RARE VINTAGE GLEN GRANT 1954 40%

DISTILLERY LABEL ARDMORE 1996 43%

Sweet vanilla with tropical fruit aromas, pineapple and mango. Subtle floral and toasted malt notes develop. The palate has chilli spice initially with citrus flavours and a creamy milk chocolate finish.

Very fruity initially with strawberries, raspberries, and melon. Delicate hessian and old leather aromas develop.The palate is deliciously smooth with summer fruits and menthol flavours.

Rich Sherry influences with hints of stewed fruits and charred oak. The palate has black pepper initially with green apple and ripe banana flavours. An underlying peat smoke edge lingers in the finish.

Cask Type: Refill bourbon barrels

Cask Type: First fill Sherry casks

Cask Type: Refill Sherry hogsheads

THE MACPHAIL’S COLLECTION BUNNAHABHAIN PEATED 8 YEARS OLD 43%

CONNOISSEURS CHOICE SPEYBURN 1989 46%

SPEYMALT FROM MACALLAN DISTILLERY 2006 43%

Salty and sweet with an underlying smokiness - bonfire embers. Smoky and sweet initially on the palate, with tropical fruit flavours and milk chocolate.

Fresh and sweet with hints of pineapple and honey. The palate is peppery initially with banana and aniseed. Milk chocolate flavours develop.

Sweet vanilla with hints of honey and green apple aromas. The palate is peppery initially with ripe banana, orange, and milk chocolate flavours.

Cask Type: Refill Sherry butts

Cask Type: Refill Sherry hogsheads

Cask Type: First fill and refill Sherry butts featured whiskies | 07

rare vintage range Celebrating a milestone

permission to bottle the whisky. As most of the distilleries’ Scotch whisky was being used for blending, distillery owners were happy for the opportunity and thankful for the extra promotion of their distillery. These owners requested that Gordon & MacPhail use the distillery’s label with the added text at the bottom: Bottled by Gordon & MacPhail. In celebration of classic whisky label design, Gordon & MacPhail continues to use the original distillery labels for

the ‘Rare Vintage’ range. Indeed, one needs look no further than the likes of Strathisla, Glen Grant, and Smith’s Glenlivet to appreciate the wonderful examples of yesteryear’s designs. Looking to celebrate a milestone? Gordon & MacPhail’s ‘Rare Vintage’ presents a wonderful solution. Highlighted below are five of our old and rare whiskies.

glen grant 1954 40% Very fruity initially with strawberries, raspberries, and melon. Delicate hessian and old leather aromas develop. The palate is deliciously smooth with summer fruits and menthol flavours. Cask Type: First fill Sherry casks

mortlach 1954 43% Rich Sherry influences with dried fruits, bees wax, and a subtle fresh peppermint edge. The palate is spicy initially with tropical fruit influences and cocoa, leading to a creamy finish. Cask Type: First fill Sherry butts With a selection of single malts spanning from 1936 to 1986, it is little wonder Gordon & MacPhail’s ‘Rare Vintage’ range is seen as the ‘go-to’ range for those looking to mark a milestone with that extra-special dram. The depth of the range is testament to the Gordon & MacPhail philosophy of selecting only the best casks, maturing and bottling single malt Scotch whisky. This is a philosophy adopted and sustained by members of the Urquhart family – the owners of Gordon & MacPhail. Established in 1895 by James Gordon and John Alexander MacPhail, John Urquhart joined the South Street grocers in the first year to assist with the whisky side of the business. John learned quickly from James Gordon; he acquired skills and knowledge, and built relationships with distillers throughout the Scotland.This experience would serve him in good stead when, in 1915, he became senior partner and, soon after, sole owner of the company. John’s son, George, joined the business in 1933 and together father and son, sometimes dubbed eccentric by their peers, adopted a long term approach to maturing whisky. While the trend during the first half of the twentieth century was to use whisky for blending purposes; the Urquharts made the decision to grow the Gordon & MacPhail business and name as a ‘Single Malt House’. Gordon & MacPhail’s Scotch rare vintage | 08

whisky was matured much longer than the norm and was bottled as a single malt. The third, and now the fourth, generation of the Urquhart family continue to embrace the philosophy laid down by their predecessors. As a result, Gordon & MacPhail is now blessed with arguably the world’s greatest selection of rare and aged single malts. Since the early days of the business, Gordon & MacPhail would specially select casks for each distillery and ship these to be filled with new-make spirit. Casks were left to mature at the filling distillery or returned to the company’s own bonded warehouses in Elgin. These casks are carefully monitored and sampled, and when the time is right, the single malt is bottled under one of the Gordon & MacPhail’s ten ranges – in this case, the ‘Rare Vintage’ range with the various unique distillery label designs. For single malt aficionados and those interested in the history of Scotch whisky label design, the labels of the Gordon & MacPhail ‘Rare Vintage’ range may have a familiar look as many are based on the distillery labels designs from years gone by. In the past, Gordon & MacPhail, respecting the relationships forged, approached the various distillery owners seeking

strathisla 1967 43% Intense Sherry aromas with hints of stewed apple and raisin. The palate is smooth with orange peel and grapefruit flavours, which combine with a coffee edge. The finish is long and complex with a trace of charred oak. Cask Type: First fill Sherry butts

longmorn 1967 43% Soft and delicate, with a soft sweet Sherry nose, which mingles with ripe nectarine notes. Soft and pleasant on the palate. Cask Type: Refill Sherry butts

glenlivet 1974 43% Fragrant, fresh rose petals and newly cut grass. A lingering subtle sweetness follows. An initial burst of chilli spices, with a sweetness emerging. Soft fruit influences linger and a hint of vanilla comes to the fore. Cask Type: Refill American & refill Sherry casks

rare vintage | 09

distillery profile

pier taking in the smell of the salty ocean accentuated by the sweet scent of a mash.

caol ila

Image courtesy of Caol Ila Distillery

The distillery has six copper stills within its impressive four storey stillhouse.

Until 1972, empty casks and other necessities (coal, barley, and yeast) were shipped to Caol Ila Distillery on the Pibroch puffer, a small cargo boat from Glasgow. Once unloaded, casks full of new-make spirit filled the hull and were shipped back to the mainland to be matured. These deliveries are now made by lorries venturing down the steep single track (we were much relieved not to have encountered any during our excursion). The new-make spirit – 24,000 litres a day – is now tanked and driven off the island daily to a central Scotland warehouse where it is filled into bourbon barrels and left to mature.

Pronounced ‘cull-eela’, (Gaelic for Sound of Jura) Caol Ila is the largest distillery on Islay and the fifth largest in Scotland. Built in a disused lead-ore quarry by Hector Henderson in 1846, the seaside location was purposely chosen for its abundance of water. The burn (located behind the distillery) flows from Loch Nam Ban into the ocean; the water is used for both the mashing and cooling. The Caol Ila Distillery has changed ownership on a handful of occasions: in 1854 Norman Buchanon (owner of the Isle of Jura Distillery) took over the distillery from Henderson; Bulloch Lade & Co., based out of Glasgow, acquired it from Buchanon in 1863 – their improvements included the pier and increased production; after a voluntary liquidation of Bulloch Lade & Co. in 1920, a consortium of businessmen formed the Caol Ila Distillery Company Ltd. – these increased the distillery’s efficiency; finally, in 1927 Distillers Co. Ltd. (D.C.L.) acquired a controlling interest and its subsidiary Scottish Malt Distillers Ltd. (S.M.D.) bought all the shares. In 1986 D.C.L. became United Distillers which is now owned by Diageo. In its 170 year history, the distillery ceased production four times. The first two closures were during the Great Depression (1930-1937) and World War II (1942-1945) – Caol Ila experienced the same difficulties as many of its contemporaries: reduced demand and barley rationing respectively. The following two closures were both entirely for production improvements. During the 1972-1974 pause, S.M.D. completely demolished and rebuilt all of the

distillery profile | 10

buildings except the dunnage warehouse. The distillery as it is seen today is due to the architectural vision of George Leslie Darge. The last disruption in 2011 was brief; allowing Diageo to fully automate the whisky production. We were very fortunate to have the opportunity to visit the Caol Ila Distillery in November 2015. The distillery is easily accessed from the ferry terminal: follow the only road and turn at the first right. The road narrows to a winding single track flanked by cows and sheep before descending towards the Sound of Jura – the narrow, 19 mile straight separating Islay from the island of Jura. As we passed the white washed distillers cottages, our excitement grew. We were however surprised by a couple hairpin turns down a steep hill, but our anticipation was well rewarded as we turned the last corner: the Caol Ila Distillery is an impressive giant resting peacefully on the sea. The day was dreich, overcast, and the air was filled with a light ocean mist (our preferred term for light rain). Driving towards the main buildings we were flanked on the left by the original dunnage warehouse and on the right by the Sound of Jura - an amazing view. As impressive and intimidating as these were, my gaze was drawn up the drive and over the pier to the huge copper potstills dominating the stillhouse’s floor–to-ceiling windows. Beside the sounds of the waves lapping against the rocks and the distant rumble of the burn’s waterfall, the site was eerily silent. Before exploring the distillery, we meandered to the

Today, twelve Islay residents work at the distillery: guides, managers, and six distillery operators. We joined a tour of the production buildings. Inside smoky and peaty scents wafted about, not unexpected as the final spirit is known as a typical Islay malt – a peated whisky. In the milling room, the long serving and hard working Porteus mill crushes the Scottish Optic and Concerto barley in preparation for the mashing. The barley is malted on Islay at the Diageo owned Port Ellen Maltings. Interestingly, the malted barley for both Caol Ila and Lagavulin, Caol Ila’s sister Islay distillery, have the same phenol content 35-38 ppm (roughly equating to 20 hours under a peat fire). Up a couple of flights of stairs and through another door lie the large mash tun and the tops of ten, twenty foot tall, wash backs. The mashing process lasts six hours: twelve and a half tonnes of milled barley is subjected to a continuous spurge producing 58,000 litres of cloudy wort – a process repeated sixteen times a week! The wort is drained, cooled to 16°C, and transferred to one of the ten wash backs where the yeast is added. Two stainless steel wash backs were installed in 2011 to complement the eight Oregon Pine ones, in-situ since 1974. After 55 hours of fermentation, a wash of 8% alcohol is drained from a wash back and piped to one of the three wash stills in the adjacent stillhouse. This four storey windowed production area offers visitors and staff an unimpeded view of the Paps of Jura on the other side of the Sound. Six shiny copper stills (three wash and three spirit) dominate the room; although not original, these 1974 stills are exact replicas of the original two.

Since 2012, production at Caol Ila is continuous – twenty four hours a day, seven days a week. Since 1974 one distiller has controlled production of the giant stills; however, up until the 2011 upgrade, which fully automated the stills, mash tun, and washbacks, production was controlled from a pneumatic gauge switchboard located in the stillhouse. The stillhouse was exceptionally warm on the day of our visit, but combined with the temperatures at the height of summer, the pre-2011 distiller would have had to constantly deal with unbearable temperatures. To beat the heat, Caol Ila has ingeniously harvested its closest and most abundant resource: sea water. The adoption of a secondary salt water condenser system during the hottest months has helped mitigate the extreme temperatures in the stillhouse. This condenser pumps cold sea water into the distillery where it is used to cool down the fresh water in the condensers. Although the scenery is distracting, the sheer immensity of the stills is even more so. The distillation process takes six hours; 58,000 litres of wash pass through the wash and spirit stills to create 12,000 litres of clear new-make spirit. This spirit is piped from the stillhouse across the car park to the dunnage warehouse. The dunnage warehouse, the only remaining original building onsite, once housed a cooperage and a malt house; now, primarily empty except for casks of Lagavulin and the spirit tank. Caol Ila whisky is the main component in the Johnnie Walker blend and prior to the 1990s, the spirit was used entirely in blends. Today, however, over five million litres is sold as a single malt, this is a substantial increase from the initial two percent originally released under the ‘Caol Ila’ label. Each year, the distillery carries out a limited distillation of unpeated spirit for blends and special releases, now also offered as a single malt. Gordon & MacPhail is proud of our longstanding and ongoing relationship with the distillery; Caol Ila is currently bottled under both the ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ and ‘Cask Strength’ ranges.

The distillery overlooks the Sound of Jura, with a spectacular view of the Paps of Jura in the distance.

Many thanks to Justina (Lead Guide) and Lynzie (tour guide turned distillery operator) who offered rare insights into the distillery, and overall could not have been more helpful. We also had the pleasure of meeting Sushi, a very friendly small, black cat who is a regular visitor to the distillery.

distillery profile | 11

TASTING NOTES

THE a-z of whisky

CONNOISSEURS CHOICE CAOL ILA 2003, 46%

The definitive whisky directory, as told by the world’s leading malt whisky specialist.

Colour: Dark Straw. WITHOUT WATER Nose: Cured bacon aromas with hints of vanilla, green apple, and ripe banana complemented by peat smoke. Palate: Sweet and smoky with ripe banana, pear, and orange zest flavours. Cocoa powder enhances the underlying bonfire ember edge.

charring Image courtesy of Caol Ila Distillery

THE FACTS CAOL ILA Owner: Diageo

WITH WATER Nose: Delicate honey with apple and lime aromas complemented by an underlying damp embers note. Sweet initially with stewed pear, mango, Palate: and orange flavours which combine with a milk chocolate edge. Body: Finish:

Medium. Long and smooth with lingering bonfire embers. Cask Type(s): First fill bourbon barrels. Whisky Style: Light and fruity Islay malt.

Established: 1846 Original Water Source: Loch Nam Ban Malt Source: Port Ellen Maltings (occasionally elsewhere) Malt Storage Capacity: 7 x 50 tonne bins Mill Type: Porteus 12.5 tonnes in place since the 1960s Grist Composition: 70% grist, 10% flour, 20% husk Mash Tun Construction: Stainless Steel full lauter

Charring a cask serves two purposes: firstly, it makes the wood more pliable for easy shaping; and secondly, the process begins to change the chemistry of the wood which, in turn, will affect the final profile of the whisky. For example, the layer of carbon acts like a filter to neutralise undesirable flavours and compounds. Charring occurs during coopering: the inside of a cask is heated to a specified temperature for a stated time – both of these can vary and are specified by the distiller. Charring levels run the gamut from a light toasting to heavy charring. Heat transforms flavourless wood into rich aromatic compounds. Toasting a cask is a long slow process using the lower temperatures (100°-200°C for 15-45 minutes); this process will eventually release more vanillins and eugenols into the spirit resulting in vanilla, clove, and cinnamon flavours. Charring is quick and intense – the cask is submitted to very high temperatures for under a minute. The level of charring can result in a light char to thick ‘crocodile skin’ layer of charcoal along the inside of a cask. This process opens the wood grain making it porous thus releasing more lactones and fruitful notes resulting in a spirit that is heavy and sweet, nutty and grainy.

Mash Size: 12.5 tonnes (200 tonnes per week)

copper

Mash time: 6 hours

Copper pot stills are icons of every Scotch whisky distillery. Like fingerprints, each distillery’s stills will be unique in size, height, capacity, and shape. There are two types of stills: the wash and the spirit. Each distillery will have at least one of each; however, the numbers of each are not always equal. A distillery’s product is not called spirit until it has undergone at least one pass through the wash still and finished in the spirit still.

Wash Temperatures: 1st wash 64°C, continuous spurge reaching up to 85°C No. of Wash Backs: 10 Wash Back Construction: 2 Stainless Steel and 8 Oregon Pine Wash Back Capacity: 61,000 litres

Copper is a key component in the whisky production process; it is used for two key reasons. First, it is an effective conductor of heat, heating alcohol in the stills to the point of evaporation. Second, it is an excellent catalyst: unwanted characteristics, like sulphur, bind to the copper.

Yeast: 100% Mauri Liquid Yeast No. of Wash Stills: 3 Year of installation : 1974 – tops replaced 2012

The final flavour of a distillery’s new-make spirit is directly affected by the size and shape of a copper pot still.The more opportunity alcohol vapours have to come into contact with the copper, the lighter the final spirit will be.Tall, slender stills encourage copper contact and create a light, elegant new-make spirit, whereas short, dumpy stills create a heavier, meatier spirit because there is less copper contact.

Wash Still Capacity: 61,000 litres Heat Source: Oil Wash Still Shape: Potstill. Lye arm 10° decline to condenser No. of Spirit Stills: 3 Year of installation: 1974 Spirit Still Capacity: 12,000 litres Heat Source: Oil Spirit Still Shape: Potstill. Lye arm 5° decline to condenser Current Annual Distillery Output: 6,500,000 litres per year (output varies from year to year)

distillery profile | 12

cut In whisky terminology the ‘Cut’ refers to the ‘Heart’ of the spirit; the perfect moment as the new-make spirit evaporates up the spirit still, takes form in the condenser and passes through the spirit safe. The final distilled spirit has three different phases. The first, known as the cloudy foreshots, or ‘heads’, is too pungent and oily to be matured and instead is placed in the low-wines receiver. The second phase is the middle cut, the ‘heart’; this spirit is perfect for maturing. A canny distiller is well placed to know the perfect moment to make the switch that will send this portion to the spirit receiver. The ‘Cut’ accounts for only ten percent of the spirit produced. The final phase is the feints, or ‘tails’. The distiller, by way of the spirit safe, sends the ‘tails’ to blend with the ‘heads’ and low wines (created by the first distillation in the wash still) in the low wines receiver. The contents of the low wines receiver will be passed anew through the spirit still, once again testing the skill of the distiller.

a-z of whisky | 13

generations mortlach 75 years old Pictured

“The future is shaped by what we do today, while today reveals what we did in the past”

left to righ

t: Stephe

n Rankin

, Alexand

er McCal

THE launch EVENT

l Smith, C

harles M

acLean &

Neil Urq

uhart

On the 2 of September 2015, Gordon & MacPhail released the latest addition to the ‘Generations’ range: Generations Mortlach 75 Years Old by Gordon & MacPhail. nd

Around 100 guests attended the unique event at the Royal Opera House, London, hosted by the third and fourth generations of the Urquhart family, to celebrate the launch of the most exclusive whisky in the world.

Pictured left to right: Charles MacLean & Alexander McCall Smith

The family were joined by acclaimed whisky writer Charles MacLean and his good friend and renowned author Alexander McCall Smith. Gordon & MacPhail captured a piece of Speyside, the region at the heart of Scotch whisky production, and brought it to central London. As guests entered the prestigious Crush Room at the Royal Opera House, they experienced the stunning sights and enticing sounds of Speyside as they enjoyed a palate cleansing glass of Speyside water. The official ceremony began with Neil Urquhart, John Urquhart’s great grandson, who introduced Charles MacLean. Mr. MacLean provided an insight into the company, his relationship with Gordon & MacPhail, and his involvement with the new limited release. He introduced his good friend Alexander McCall Smith with whom he co-authored ‘Seven Nights with Mortlach’, a book which accompanies all Generations Mortlach 75 Years Old by Gordon & MacPhail decanters. Mr. McCall Smith recited his original poem, ‘The Water of Life’ – published in the exclusive book. Stephen Rankin, the oldest of John’s great grandsons, continued the ceremony; his speech culminated with the introduction of Generations Mortlach 75 Years Old by Gordon & MacPhail. The decanter, poised on a specially commissioned teardrop shaped table at the heart of the Crush Room, was revealed by the fourth generation brothers Stuart and Richard Urquhart. The siblings poured and distributed drams in bespoke glasses. Guests were privileged to be led through an intimate tasting and nosing by Charles MacLean.

Pictured left to

rd Urquhart

quhart & Richa

right: Stuart Ur

On the same day, Generations Mortlach 75 Years Old by Gordon & MacPhail was exclusively launched at Harrods. Stuart and Richard Urquhart delivered the decanter to the prestigious department store where it was placed on display in the renowned whisky room. Pictured left to right: Stua

rt Urquhart, Nick Flemmin

g & Richard Urquhart

The grand reveal - Stuart Urquhart

Generations Mortlach 75 Years Old by Gordon & MacPhail decanter, presentation plinth with uniquely designed crystal glasses & handmade Aniline travel holdall

Ewen Mackintos

h

generations | 14

For more information about Gordon & MacPhail’s ‘Generations’ range of whiskies please visit: www.gordonandmacphail.com/generations

generations | 15

closed distillery

These changes were made in order to have greater control over the distillation process and create a spirit that would mature faster.

Littlemill

Thomas sold shares in the distillery to Barton Distilling Ltd. who, by 1971 had sole ownership. Barton was bought by Amalgamated Distilled Products which, in 1984, merged into the Argyll Group who closed the distillery doors. Littlemill remained silent for five years until it was bought and modernised by Gibson International. The distillery was mothballed in 1994 when the owners fell on hard times.

The final sale of Littlemill was made in 1995 to Loch Lomond Distillery who demolished the warehouses; any ideas of reviving the distillery were quelled in 2004 when fire destroyed much of the remaining buildings. Gordon & MacPhail has bottled Littlemill for a number of years under the ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ label and, more recently, under the ‘Rare Old’ range. We are proud to present our most recent bottling - Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old Littlemill 1991.

TASTING NOTES Although sadly now demolished, it is thought Littlemill Distillery, founded in 1772 by George Buchanan of Glasgow, would have been the oldest distillery in Scotland. This honour now rests with Glenturret Distillery in Perthshire, established in 1775. Littlemill Distillery originally located in the small village of Bowling in the west of the Scottish county of Dunbartonshire lies on the border delineating the Lowland and Highland regions. Interestingly, the distillery drew its water from the Auchentorlie Burn in the Kilpatrick Hills – the North side of the Lowland / Highland Divide. However, be it because of its physical home was South of the same divide, and or because the whisky was triple distilled (a technique traditional to the Lowlands) Littlemill spirit most commonly known as a Lowland single malt. Littlemill was a unique single malt distillery in that its stills were retrofitted with rectifying columns in the thirties. These columns (similar to those of a Coffey still) allow for a continuous distillation providing a more consistent spirit. These columns are used primarily in the distillation of grain whiskies. In the late sixties, the distillery briefly experimented with different whisky styles – made possible in part to the rectifying columns. Littlemill was always the name of the light traditional style Lowland single malt; however the new heavily peated spirit was distilled under closed distillery | 16

the name ‘Dumbuck’; the ‘Dunglass’ label was a full-bodied completely unpeated whisky originally intended to be used as a blending component. Production of both the ‘Dumbuck’ and ‘Dunglass’ varieties ceased in 1972. Like many distilleries throughout Scotland, Littlemill changed ownership regularly throughout its long history. The first recorded change in title was by Matthew Clark & Co. in 1817 who sold it four years later to Peter McGregor. The Excise Act of 1823 saw Littlemill Distillery’s first licensee listed as Jane MacGregor, one of the earliest female distillers. Jane retained the distillery until 1839, and over the next thirty-five years, at least ten different owners have been recorded, including Caol Ila founder, Hector Henderson. In 1875, then owner, William Hay completely rebuilt the distillery. After changing hands on a number of occasions Littlemill Distillery fell silent from 1929 – 1931, until it was purchased by the American Duncan Thomas. It was Thomas’ experiments with the distillery that developed Littlemill into the unique spirit we know today. He made the switch from triple distillation to double distillation. In addition, it was at this time that the traditional swan neck of the pot stills were replaced by rectifying columns and the stills themselves were clad in aluminium.

RARE OLD LITTLEMILL 1991, 46% Colour: Pale Gold. WITHOUT WATER Nose: Vanilla with juicy apricot, peach, and blanched almond aromas. Subtle cinnamon and nutmeg spices mingle with cocoa powder and summer berry notes. Palate: A buttery mouth feel, initially sweet with hints of white pepper. Pressed apple, orange, and kiwi flavours are complemented by heather honey. WITH WATER Nose: Sweet vanilla with demerara sugar, ripe banana, and green apple aromas, complemented by hints of lemon meringue pie. Palate: Peppery initially with hints of charred oak, zesty lime, and chocolate flavours. A subtle menthol note is present in the background. Body: Finish:

Light. Medium in length with lingering tropical fruit flavours. Cask Type(s): Refill bourbon and Sherry casks. Whisky Style: A rare Lowland dram.

closed distillery | 17

G&M news

Double celebration for Keepers of the Quaich Twin brothers Richard and Stuart have become the latest members of the Urquhart family to be made Keepers of the Quaich, part of an international society dedicated to celebrating the virtues of Scotch whisky. The Moray-based Urquhart family owned leading whisky company, Gordon & MacPhail, and Richard and Stuart are members of the fourth generation to work in the business. The exclusive Keepers of the Quaich society is an international community of members that includes leading figures in the industry, as well as renowned experts in Scotch whisky. The organisation recognises those who have made an outstanding contribution to the Scotch whisky industry. The prestigious ceremony takes place at Blair Castle, home to the Atholl Highlanders, Europe’s only private army. People travel from all over the world to take part in the event, hosted by the Keepers of the Quaich President, the Earl of Dalhousie, which is held in the Grand Ballroom of the castle, famous for its ceiling decorated with 175 deer antlers. Richard Urquhart joined Gordon & MacPhail in 2009 and currently works in the export sales team travelling all over the world. Stuart Urquhart joined in 2008 and is Gordon & MacPhail’s Whisky Supply Manager, a position which manages the company’s extensive portfolio of whisky casks. Stuart commented: “It’s a huge honour for both of us to be made Keepers of the Quaich and become part of this special community.” Richard added: “It’s a special privilege for me to be following in the footsteps of our father David, former Joint Managing Director, who was made a Master of the Quaich in 2012.”

GORDON & MACPHAIL RAISE THE BAR IN 2015

Where in the world?

Family-owned Scotch malt whisky specialist Gordon & MacPhail has celebrated an award-winning year, with a number of products in its extensive range of whiskies honoured with prestigious awards over the course of 2015.

Country

Festival / Event

City

Date(s)

UK

Gordon Castle Highland Games

Fochabers

15th May 2016

The world’s most exclusive whisky, Generations Mortlach 75 Years Old by Gordon & MacPhail, which was released in September to great acclaim by whisky lovers and the industry, was presented with the Master Award by the Spirits Business Design Masters.

Canada

Spirit of Toronto

Toronto

7th May 2016

UK

Royal Highland Show

Edinburgh

23rd - 26th June 2016

China

Whisky L

Shanghai

19th - 21st August 2016

Now a leading whisky specialist, Gordon & MacPhail’s expertise in the industry has been honed over four generations of the Urquhart family, since being established in 1895.

France

Whisky Live Paris

Paris

24th - 26th September 2016

Sweden

Stockholm Beer & Whisky Festival

Stockholm

29th Sept - 1st October 2016

Switzerland

Whisky Schiff

Hallwil

30th Sept - 1st October 2016

Netherlands

Pot Still Festival

Amersfoort

30th Sept - 2nd October 2016

Further recognition was awarded to The MacPhail’s Collection Glenrothes 8 Years Old and Connoisseurs Choice Ledaig 1998, which were awarded Gold and Master respectively by The Scotch Whisky Masters (The Spirits Business).

UK

The Whisky Exchange (TWE) Show

London

1st - 2nd October 2016

Sweden

Stockholm Beer & Whisky Festival

Stockholm

6th - 8th October 2016

Poland

Whisky Live Warsaw

Warsaw

14th - 15th October 2016

The International Spirits Challenge, one of the most authoritative, respected and influential spirits competitions in the world, presented Connoisseurs Choice Caol Ila 2001 with a Silver award. Also cause for celebration was The International Wine & Spirit Competition, which awarded Distillery Labels Ardmore 1996 with a Silver Outstanding.

Holland

Whisky Festival Den Haag

The Hague

11th - 13th November 2016

Singapore

Whisky Live Singapore

Singapore

12th - 13th November 2016

Canada

New Brunswick Spirits Festival

Fredericton, NB

While the Malt Maniacs Awards gave the Silver Medal to Rare Vintage Glen Grant 1950, and Cask Strength Caol Ila 2004.

Switzerland

Whisky Schiff

Zurich

1st - 4th December 2016

Canada

Victoria Whisky Festival

Victoria, BC

19th - 22nd January 2017

In the prestigious recently released Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible, Gordon and MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice Strathmill 2002 was named Best 11-15 Years (Multiple Casks) whisky.











22nd - 25th November 2016

Connoisseurs Choice Glen Elgin 1998, part of the ‘Connoisseurs Choice’ range from Gordon & MacPhail, has also been recommended by the prestigious Whisky Magazine; one of the leading publications for whisky connoisseurs globally. Neil Urquhart, Director and a member of the fourth generation of the Urquhart family to own Gordon & MacPhail said: “From the release of what we believe to be the world’s most exclusive whisky, Generations Mortlach 75 Years Old by Gordon & MacPhail, to recognition in numerous awards, it has been another remarkable year for us here at Gordon & MacPhail. We’re delighted to see so many of our whiskies honoured with awards both nationally and internationally. “We raise a dram to toast the hard work and dedication from the team over the past year, and look forward to the successes and challenges 2016 will bring.”

Follow us: All images, photographs, logos and copy are owned by Gordon & MacPhail or are licensed to Gordon & MacPhail. They may not be reproduced or copied without the written consent of Gordon & MacPhail. Photographs are by Paul Watt Photography, John Paul Photography, Graham Vaughan Photography and Gordon & MacPhail photographer.

Gordon & MacPhail | George House | Boroughbriggs Road | Elgin | Moray IV30 1JY T | 01343 545111 F | 01343 540155 E | [email protected]

www.gordonandmacphail.com Gordon & MacPhail is the trading name of Speymalt Whisky Distributors Ltd.

G&M news | 18

where in the world | 19

The wood makes the whisky.

F

or over 120 years, Gordon & MacPhail has carefully matched spirit with oak. This interaction is the key moment in the maturation process, where our meticulously crafted casks hold a spirit until it is ready to be released as single malt Scotch whisky. We have learned from our vast experience that The wood makes the whisky. It is our unique skill in spirit selection, coupled with our expert cask curation, which allows us to consistently deliver a range of perfectly matured whiskies, from eight to seventy five years old.

www.gordonandmacphail.com/wood PLEASE ENJOY GORDON AND MACPHAIL WHISKIES RESPONSIBLY.