the spanish acquisition

the spanish acquisition RETAIL LIST #106 DECEMBER 2010 www.thespanishacquisition.com INTRODUCING ... RODA ‘SELA’ Bodegas Roda, La Rioja Alta, D.O. ...
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the spanish acquisition

RETAIL LIST #106 DECEMBER 2010

www.thespanishacquisition.com

INTRODUCING ... RODA ‘SELA’ Bodegas Roda, La Rioja Alta, D.O. Rioja The Roda concept was created in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, based on the traditional foundations of viticulture and new contributions from the world of enology. Indigenous varieties, mainly Tempranillo, old goblet-trained vines, sustainable farming, different vineyards which, depending on the type of fruit ripening into red or black fruit, will become either Roda Reserva or Roda 1. From the beginning Roda has focused on two plans of working in viticulture, a medium-term plan that relies on the purchase of old vineyards and reaching agreements with growers owning old vines, and another long term plan involving the planting of new vines in excellent soil in order to shape the future Roda. Two decades after the first plantings, the ‘young’ goblet-trained vines have matured and are able to transmit the personality of their landscape. With some of these vineyards Roda believed that a completely different wine could be produced: younger vines; earlier market release; appealing to a younger target market and for those occasions suitable for something more affordable. The 2008 harvest offered an opportunity and gave Roda the push they needed. The now middle-aged vineyards had reached the appropriate maturity to develop the wine that has evolved into ‘Sela’.

2008 RODA ‘Sela’ $63

Roda have defined ‘Sela’ as being a strong, youthful wine in the fresh fruit spectrum of Tempranillo from the Haro area; expressive but with the fresh voice of the young. With good body, and shorter ageing that its siblings ‘Sela’ still maintains Roda’s unmistakable hallmark of elegance and tannin fineness. 96% Tempranillo and 4% Graciano sourced from sustainable vineyards. An attractive, lively medium-deep cherry-garnet red colour displaying a clean, bright rim with a blue tinge. Highly expressive aromatically with well-defined fruit character and fresh red berry-cherry, rosehip, chocolate, tobacco and fivespice complexities. The wine shows a youthful, lively, carefree personality yet is still complex and serious with slight mineral notes. The palate is very fruity, with the same red berry fruit sensations found on the nose. Juicy red cherry bon-bon and a little soft chocolate underneath, medium-bodied with no hollow on the mid-palate, the hallmark of this winery. Very fresh, lively and flavoursome, with fine tannin silkiness. A mouthful of lovely fresh fruit with a cool, mineral finish. The oak is almost totally integrated in the fruit. It gives a subtle sensation of unctuousness against a background of spicy, floral hints.

FOR THE FULL STORY, download this link to our website: http://www.thespanishacquisition.com/site/files/ul/data_text12/1062295.pdf.

Contents p. Cava 2 Spanish White Wines 3-4 Portuguese White Wines 5 Spanish Sweet Whites 5 Rosados/Rosats 6 Spanish Red Wines Tempranillo 7-10 Rioja 7-8 Ribera del Duero 9 Cigales 10 Toro 10 Tierras de Castille 10 Mencia 11 Garnacha 12 Garnacha & Carineña 13 Callet & Montenegro 13 Monastrell 14 Fondillon 14 Portuguese Red Wines 15-16 Port 17 Sherry 18 Brandy de Jerez 19 Aguardiente 19 Pacharan 19 Beer 19 Extra Virgin Olive Oil & Sherry Vinegar 19 Map - Key Wine Regions 20 scott wasley, phone 0408 841 060

GUARANTEED 100% REEFER

All TSA wines are shipped in reefers; temperature controlled to 13 degrees celsius. The best wines of Spain and Portugal, given the respect and expense of proper shipping. Yummy ...

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bio dynamic

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certified organic

luisa barbaro, dougie graham, imbi knappstein and jen flanagan phone 03 9495 6373 fax 03 9495 6969 [email protected] po box 1259 collingwood 3066

Sparkling Wines

D.O. Cava Vinos Espumosos Cava production is ‘methode champenoise’, called ‘metodo tradicional’ in Spain. Typically, only white grapes are used. Chardonnay is making inroads, but the traditional white varieties of the region predominate: Macabeo (macca-bow), picked earliest, growing best near the coast; Xarel.lo (char-rell-low) from the Penedes depression, and Parellada (pa-rey-yada) from the precoastal mountain range. Malo is rarely affected, due to the relative warmth of Penedes. D.O. Cava is a curious wine region, as it is, technically, non-geographic. Mostly, Cava is produced in the wine region of Penedes, an hour south of Barcelona, and just inland from the coast. Although nearly all sparkling Cava is produced here, there are small productions licensed in other areas, and thus Cava is a D.O. which limits itself to concerns about how, not where, Cava is grown and made. That said, you may well go your whole life without tasting a non-Penedes Cava. Cava comes in 3 main price/style bands. At the entry level, the best are delightfully simple, easy-to-drink apple-fresh + earth bubblers, and startling value. At the other end of the spectrum, there are some creatively expensive ‘Champagne’-styled wines with great depth and richness from long lees ageing, and in-between, a very, very good value spectrum where apple-earth-fresh meets yeasty leesy richness in a unique between-world.

Vallformosa, D.O. Penedes

Vallformosa

RRP

QTY

Note, these are single vintage wines, but are not labelled as such (the exception being the Reserva), and so we market them with no reference to vintage. Quality-at-a-price which is unparalleled in fizz world.

Brut ‘MVSA’

$22

6

Vallformosa Brut ‘MVSA’ Full-flavoured style with ripe custard apple, straw and nice golden eggy richness. Balanced, clean finish. 35% Macabeo/30% Xarel.lo/35% Parellada. 24 months lees ageing. 9.5 g/l residual sugar. Stylish, satisfying, value.

Extra Seco

$22

6

2006 Brut ‘MVSA Reserva’

$32

6

Vallformosa Extra Seco Fine, steel-thread acid carries honeyed richness (slight sugar lift), florals, lemon jube. Perfumed lift out back, delicious, snappy finish. 40% Macabeo/30% Xarel.lo/20% Parellada. 12 months on lees. 15 g/l residual sugar.

‘Clasic’ Rosé

$26

6

Raventós i Blanc, D.O. Penedes

Raventós i Blanc

RRP

QTY

2007 Raventós i Blanc ‘L’Hereu’ Reserva Brut Pink apple, ginger spice, wafting Cava earthiness—think gingerbread with apple flourishes. RiB-style bubble-nfroth recedes to delicate honey-spicy, lingering reserve material. 60% Macabeo/20% Xarel-lo/20% Parellada.

2007 ‘L’Hereu’ Reserva Brut

$39

6

2008 ‘de Nit’ Rosé

$49

6

Entirely hand-picked and estate-produced fruit, from the ONLY outright Cava specialist in the D.O.

Agustí Torelló Mata

RRP

QTY

2007 Agustí Torelló Mata Brut Reserva new vintage Beautiful apple fruit and rich cheesy-leesy texture, it’s concentrated and very tasty but also tight and focused. From 30+ y.o. vines and 24 months lees-ageing. Really top quality fizz at this price.

2007 Brut Reserva

$45

6

2007 Brut Rosat ‘Trepat’

$49

6

2007 Agustí Torelló Mata Brut Rosat ‘Trepat’ From the red variety, Trepat. Spiced dark berry and strawberry gelato nose, the palate is dry and savoury. Vibrant fushcia pink, 7 g/l sugar harmonises tannins. 16 months on lees.

2006 ‘Kripta’ Gran Reserva

$185

6

2004 ‘Kripta’ Gran Reserva

$180

6

2006 Agustí Torelló Mata ‘Kripta’ Gran Reserva new vintage 2004 Agustí Torelló Mata ‘Kripta’ Gran Reserva limited

2006 ‘Bayanus’ GR Brut Nature 375ml

$40

12

Let’s talk bottles. Kripta’s is seriously art. Modelled on a 17th century Roman bottle relic recovered from the ATM vineyard, engineered to cope with the pressure of fizz in bottle, and hand made. The booze is smart, too!

2004 Gran Reserva Brut Nature 1.5L

$146

1

Pronounced, flowingly, as JOO-VEE-CUMPS.

Juvé y Camps

RRP

QTY

2006 Juvé y Camps ‘Reserva de la Familia’ Brut Nature Gran Reserva new vintage Creme Catalan/smoky honey ice-cream, vanilla hints and waxy flowers. Leesy and golden, typical floral-earth Cava signifiers, gentle acid structure ... more about length and fineness than fruit or force. Terrific.

2006 ‘Reserva de la Familia’ Brut Nature

$60

6

2006 Vallformosa Brut ‘MVSA Reserva’ Soft yellow floral-earth aromas continue through the palate. Any tendency to overt richness is cut by gently persuasive soft acid-mineral structure. 30% Macabeo/40% Xarel.lo/30% Parellada. 20 months on lees. Vallformosa ‘Clasic’ Rosé Literally, a ‘classic’ European pink style. Generous flavour, but always crisp and tight. In no way sweet: tasty AND refreshing at once. 80% Garnacha and 20% Monastrell. 12 months on lees.

2008 Raventós i Blanc ‘de Nit’ Rosé new vintage Delicately pale pink. Intense with rose, red berry and a touch of pomegranate. Perfectly balanced with a long, persistent finish. 55% Macabeo/15% Xarel-lo/15% Parellada/15% Monastrell. 7.5 g/l residual sugar.

Agustí Torelló Mata, D.O. Penedes

2006 Agustí Torelló Mata ‘Bayanus’ Gran Reserva Brut Nature 375ml 2004 Agustí Torelló Mata Gran Reserva Brut Nature 1.5L magnum new vintage ATM in a serious party-pack ... concentrated, deep, long and elegant, very fine and savoury. 5 years on lees!!

Juvé y Camps, D.O. Penedes

2

Spanish White Wines MACABEO/VIURA WHITE

Macabeo has traditionally been subjected to oxidative oak fermentation and maturation regime; but modern, fresh and well-defined examples are now more popular. Known as Viura in Rioja and Macabeo in the East.

La Purisima, D.O. Yecla

La Purisima

RRP

QTY

2009 La Purisima ‘Estio’ Macabeo screwcap, new vintage Fresh-cut fruit: pineapple, apple, grapefruit and a white floral top-note. 100% varietal on the palate; a creamy open feel, and a tweak of nutty acid/earth definition. Simple, gentle and harmonious, perfect house wine style.

2009 ‘Estio’ Macabeo

$22

12

Marques de Alella

RRP

QTY

2009 Pansa Blanca

$31

6

Marques de Alella, D.O. Alella

PANSA BLANCA/XAREL.LO WHITE, D.O. ALELLA

2009 Marques de Alella Pansa Blanca screwcap, new vintage Grown on granitic sand, the dominant aromatic is distinctly like beach sand. Full of fruit and soft at the front, with a rip of nice fat ripe spicy natural acidity at the back. It’s clean, flavoursome and darned good.

tREIXADURA WHITE, d.O. RIBEIRO

Finca Hispaña, D.O. Ribeiro

Adjacent to Rías Biaxas’ Condado de Tea sub-zone, Ribiero while not coastal has a thoroughly Atlantic meso-climate. Most vineyards (Bodegas) are still ‘co-op’ quality, but this is one single over-achiever.

Albariño-based Whites, D.O. Rías Baixas From top producers deploying the most careful viticulture and winemaking under the duress of the Atlantic climate, Albariño can prove a truly wonderful variety, combining heady richness and texture with a nervous, tingly-mineral acid line. Rías Baixas (“low rivers”) has 3 main sub-zones. Salnes Valley is on the Atlantic coast near Pontevedra; O Rosal on the confluence of the River Mino (the border to Portugal) and the Atlantic; while Condado de Tea is a half-hour along the River away from the coast.

Finca Hispaña

RRP

QTY

2008 Finca Hispaña Treixadura screwcap 3rd in the Atlantic coast Trifecta, with Albariño and Loureiro. Vaguely Marsanney: honeysuckle-soft, golden but not broad, neither rich nor minerally in-betweenyness. A rare successful example of a straight Treixadura.

2008 Treixadura

$39

6

Castro Martín, D.O. Rías Baixas, Salnes Valley

Castro Martín

RRP

QTY

2008 Castro Martín Albariño normacorc Fresh, zesty, aromas of jasmine/fir apple/crisp pear, hints of oyster. Terrific palate: maintains preference for green before gold; lengthy, nervy start and finish, generosity/texture changeup the middle of things.

2008 Albariño

$39

6

Valmiñor, D.O. Rías Baixas, o Rosal

Valmiñor

RRP

QTY

2009 Valmiñor Albariño screwcap, new vintage 2009 Valmiñor Albariño 375ml As is the case for good Albariño, this begins with pear, intermingled with citrus pith - soft and crunchy at the same time, and tinged with menthol, lemon drop and Neroli florals. A gentle suggestion of creaminess midpalate yields to the herb fleck and mineral-acid line.

2009 Valmiñor Albariño

$44

12

2009 Valmiñor Albariño 375ml

$29

24

2009 ‘Davila’ Rías Baixas

$54

6

Bodegas Eidosela, D.O. Rías Baixas, Condado de Tea

Bodegas Eidosela

RRP

QTY

2009 Eidosela Albariño screwcap, new vintage Fresh-cut nashi, white flower and yellow soil aromatics; hints of gewurzty rose and custard apple. The palate is fuller than the nose, but is perfectly tubular with nothing soft; ends with a nice crunch and sour herbs.

2009 Eidosela Albariño

$33

6

2009 ‘Arbastrum’ Rías Baixas

$37

6

Pazo San Mauro, D.O. Rías Baixas, Condado de Tea

Pazo San Mauro

RRP

QTY

2009 Pazo San Mauro Albariño normacorc, new vintage Focused, long, fine and delicious; well-textured, stays on the lemon-drop side. Grapefruit, fresh straw, some meal, mineral and hibiscus/spice.

2009 Albariño

$39

12

2009 Valmiñor ‘Davila’ Rías Baixas new vintage 75% Albariño/15% Treixadura/10% Loureiro. Pear, grapefruit, lime zest; some roundness from post-ferment lees contact, but retains nerve, minerality, citrus, elegance. Fine juice edged with sour pith. Very long.

2009 Eidosela ‘Arbastrum’ Rías Baixas screwcap Albariño/Loureiro/Treixadura. Muted-savoury (Treixadura) nose has the stone-fruit, pear and custard apple trademarks of Albarino. Palate is poached pear/nectarine with sour herb. Clean, snappy with a minerally tang.

33

SPANISH WHITE WINES.

Remelluri, D.O. Rioja

Remelluri

RRP

QTY

2007 Remelluri Blanco Telmo Rodriguez planted a crazy mixed-variety vineyard here in the late ‘80s: Viognier, Moscatel and a grab bag of others, all fermented in new French barrique. Simply remarkable, rich-but-fresh wine.

2007 Remelluri Blanco

$130

6

Godello whites, d.O. Valdeorras

Bodega La Tapada, D.O. Valdeorras

Valdeorras is a couple of hours inland from Rías Baixas, heading East towards the province of Castile. Dozens of rivers criss-cross this hilly region, which is cool and dry. Stunted, blackened old vines eke a miserly existence.

La Tapada is a 12ha estate owned by the Guitian family, whose eponymous wine project started in 1985 when 9ha of the family farm were replanted with Godello. Guitian has subsequently become one of the leaders in the resurgence of Godello.

VERDEJO WHITEs, D.O. RUEDA Not Verdelho, but not not-Verdelho either … meaning, a local variant of the Verdelho family, long isolated in the high, sandy hills of Rueda (1.5 hours north-west of Madrid), where it has mutated into a stand-alone variety of similar flavour, but finer, with greater nerve and length. Often blended with a little Viura and/or Sauvignon Blanc.

Guitian

RRP

QTY

2008 Guitian Joven Godello limited 2009 Guitian Joven Godello White blossom/floral nuances with citrus notes. Unwooded, balanced, with a zesty, acid finish.

2008 Joven Godello

$49

12

2009 Joven Godello

$49

12

2007 Guitian Godello ‘Barrica’ A classic: firm, full character, citrus and blossom highlights, with added creamy mouthfeel from lees/barrel.

2007 Godello ‘Barrica’

$75

12

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Valdeorras

Telmo Rodriguez

RRP

QTY

2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Gaba do Xil’ Godello There’s a hint of lanolin and wax as usual for Godello, but lemon-melon-pear are the main flavours, particularly canned pear. Texture is slinky-creamy with mineral and a nip of fresh acid at the finish.

2009 ‘Gaba do Xil’ Godello

$30

12

Bodegas Antaño, D.O. Rueda

Bodegas Antaño

RRP

QTY

2008 Mocen Verdejo screwcap Warm feijoa/melon, with a little herb snap. The most full-golden of these Verdejos, but nowhere near round or fat; impeccable fruit tannins and typical Rueda soft natural acid runs the show without being apparent.

2008 Mocen Verdejo

$26

12

Bodegas Javier Sanz, D.O. Rueda

Bodegas Javier Sanz

RRP

QTY

2009 Orden Tercera Verdejo screwcap, new vintage Kiwi, herbs and lime, lifted and animated. At the punchiest and raciest Verdejo extreme—dandy, literally. Outstanding palate formation: crystal clear, pure natural acid, wraps tight around the extract/fruit tannins.

2009 Orden Tercera Verdejo

$29

6

Bodegas Naia

RRP

QTY

2008 Naia Verdejo

$44

12

Telmo Rodriguez

RRP

QTY

2009 ‘Basa’ Verdejo

$27

12

2008 ‘El Transistor’ Verdejo

$60

12

Bodegas Naia, D.O. Rueda 2008 Naia Verdejo screwcap Punchy, concentrated tropical plant florals. Nice green-gold, rich/tart interplay, decadent depths and heady lift over an almost brandy snap character. Texturally most impressive, this is literally a super-Verdejo.

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Rueda 2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Basa’ Verdejo screwcap Subtle vegetal-meets-tropical fruits, in a toned-down register. Yellow fruit peel and Rueda sandy-mineral aromatics. Mild-mannered, despite a passionfruit sauvignon peek-out, gorgeously smooth easy-drinking. 2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘El Transistor’ Verdejo new wine

4

Portuguese White Wines

Quinta do Ameal, D.O.C. Vinhos Verdes

Quinta Do Ameal

RRP

QTY

2009 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro new vintage Biodynamics seems to be progressively adding a deeper, richer fragrant bay leaf character to the lemony precision of Pedro’s outstanding crunchy+textured Loureiro white. QdA, improbably, just got even better!

2009 Loureiro

$32

12

2007 ‘Escolha’ Loureiro

$59

6

Luis Pato, Vinho Regional Beiras

Luis Pato

RRP

QTY

Bical Whites, Vinho Regional Beiras

2009 Luis Pato ‘Vinhas Velhas’ Brancho screwcap, new vinatge

Beiras is not a wine region, so much as a political province, encompassing the D.O.’s of Douro, Dão and Bairrada. So disaffected with D.O. Bairrada is Luis Pato that he has ‘de-classified’ himself out of Bairrada, instead using the catch-all of Vinho Regional Beiras. Bical is the predominant local white, and Baga the red.

2009 Luis Pato ‘Vinha Formal’ Brancho new vinatge 50% Bical/30% Cerceal/20% Sercialinho. Mineral, smokey straw, chestnut. Florals and prickly pear and citric crisp freshness. Lovely waxy-nut palate, with clean golden fruit, and talc reflects the chalky soils. Aged in new Allier barrique. Formal is a 100% Bical, clay-based single vineyard version.

2009 ‘Vinhas Velhas’ Brancho

$31

6

2009 ‘Vinha Formal’ Brancho

$64

6

Niepoort, D.O.C. Douro

Loureiro Whites, D.O.C. Vinhos Verdes

Vinhos Verdes are typically, light and gassy rather innocuous whites … fine for slurping in a café in Porto, but not of interest as imports in competition with Aussie Riesling and Sauvignon. Ameal, however, is a very fine bio-dynamic single vineyard devoted to the lemony Loureiro variety, and is import-worthy indeed!

CODEGA & RABIGATO WHITES, D.O.C. Douro

2007 Quinta do Ameal ‘Escolha’ Loureiro Escolha means ‘selection’, a batch is fermented then aged 6 months in old French hogsheads, adding space and texture dimensions. Grape-citrus-bay key features remain, with a deeper softer vanilla-spice register.

Niepoort

RRP

QTY

2009 Niepoort ‘Tiara’ Branco new vintage Blend of 5 white varieties, based on 100 y.o. Codega vines grown at 600-800m. A clean, thrilling style with citric fleshy mid-palate, a touch of bitter herb and exceptional finesse.

2009 ‘Tiara’ Branco

$65

6

2009 ‘Redoma’ Branco

$56

6

2009 Niepoort ‘Redoma’ Branco new vintage Based on Rabigato and Codega, grown at 400-800m. Full texture, crisp acidity, finesse, beautifully delineated finish. Barrel ferment, lees aged for 8 months. Smoky mineral tang of Douro schist—typicity fiercely held onto.

2008 ‘Redoma’ Reserva Branco

$100

6

2008 Niepoort ‘Redoma’ Reserva Branco new vintage

ENCRUZADO WHITE, D.O.C. DÃO

Spanish Sweet Whites

Quinta do Pellada, D.O.C. Dão

Quinta do Pellada

RRP

QTY

2009 Alvaro Castro Encruzado Blend Reserva Branco new vintage A sister wine to Alvaro’s lovely Dão tinto, this is an extremely good wine for the money. It has a lovely shape, spreading and filling then trimming as it runs along the palate. Straw and limestone, lemon sherbert/barley water, with leesy texture mid-palate. Finishes deliciously dry.

2009 Alvaro Castro Reserva Branco

$39

6

Primitivo Quiles, D.O. Alicante

Primitivo Quiles

RRP

QTY

Primitivo Quiles Moscatel 375ml Fragrant, almost headily so – fruity, fresh, floral with some nice wild exuberant earthiness. Smells of oranges, straw, billy tea and raisiny grapiness. Full-bodied, but not too sweet. Moscatel hedonism, and a bargain.

Moscatel 375ml

$18

24

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Malaga

Telmo Rodriguez

RRP

QTY

2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘MR’ Moscatel 500ml ‘Mountain wine’ - grown at 900 metres on steep, schist slopes. Golden, brimming with blossom, marmalade edges underpinned by shale minerality. Full and soft with fine acid providing drying cut at the finish.

2008 ‘MR’ Moscatel 500ml

$49

6

$110

6

2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Molino Real’ Moscatel 500ml This is the most concentrated old vine fruit, and has easily swallowed 20 months in new French barriques.

2006 ‘Molino Real’ Moscatel 500ml

5

SPANISH RosadoS/RosatS Rosé Wines

As much as Fino sherry, Rosado is a culturally specific drink in Spain. Light, dry and refreshing but also tasty and satisfying, Rosados are drunk widely. Drinkable at any and all times of the day, including simply all day, and going well with just about everything you’d eat, it’s almost always Rosado-o’clock in Spain. Rosat is the same thing in the Catalan dialect.

La Purisima, D.O. Yecla

La Purisima

RRP

QTY

2009 La Purisima ‘Estio’ Monastrell Syrah Rosado screwcap Monastrell’s dried fig and honey gives a pleasant sweet-but-actually-not-sweet aspect. The palate makes for an ace food pink, it’s flavoursome, but not cloying – fruitful and dry; achingly cheap.

2009 ‘Estio’ Rosado

$22

12

Santa Cruz de Artazu, D.O. Navarra

Santa Cruz De Artazu

RRP

QTY

2009 Artazuri Garnacha Rosado screwcap A delightful juicy pink ... super refreshing, and delicious. Redcurrant, raspberry and strawberry intermingles with floral touches of acacia and almond tree.

2009 Artazuri Garnacha Rosado

$26

12

Capçanes, D.O. Montsant

Capçanes

RRP

QTY

2009 Capçanes ‘Mas Donis’ Rosat de Garnacha screwcap, new vintage Classical dry-savoury European rosé style, with a little more soft, juicy fruit than most. Quite vinous (winey), but also refreshing and dry. Almost certainly life-affirmingly addictive (a better habit!).

2008 ‘Mas Donis’ Rosat de Garnacha

$29

12

Cillar de Silos, D.O. Ribera del Duero

Cillar de Silos

RRP

QTY

2009 Tempranillo Rosado

$37

12

Pittacum

RRP

QTY

2009 ‘Tres Obispos’ Rosado de Mencia

$33

6

2009 Cillar de Silos Tempranillo Rosado normacorc 100% Tempranillo rosado with full varietal spectrum in pink weight. Young and fresh, displaying complex aromas of fruit liquor; hints of licorice and toffee; mineral undertones. Savoury, impressive and fun.

Pittacum, D.O. Bierzo 2009 Pittacum ‘Tres Obispos’ Rosado de Mencia normacorc, new wine Named ‘Tres Obispos’ (Three Bishops) as a reference to the region’s religious history, this Rosado is just lovely. Very, very dry (1.5 g/l residual). It has shiny red fruits and licorice down back. Texture is creamy-fresh in middle and snappy with acid and varietal herbs at finish.

6

Tempranillo & Garnacha Reds D.O. Rioja

Rioja is a pretty confusing appellation: you might get old-fashioned wine (high-crop fruit, lots of daggy barrel impact from ages spent in old American oak), or you may get low-crop, fresh modern estate wine. They can be tempranillo, garnacha or some blend of the two. The region is also divided into a high, cool part with poor soils (Riojas Alta and Alavesa) and a relatively low-altitude, warm, alluvial part (Rioja Baja). As ever, get to know individual estates, is our advice.

Bodegas Roda, La Rioja Alta

Bodegas Roda

RRP

QTY

The ‘Grand Cru’ of Rioja. Viticultural fanatics; very plush, velvety fruit/tannin synthesis is their aim.

2008 Roda ‘Sela’

$63

6

$100

6

$70

12

2006 Roda Reserva 1.5L

$200

3

2008 Roda ‘Sela’ new wine Defined as a strong, youthful wine, ‘Sela’ sits in the fresh fruit spectrum; expressive although young. With good body, and shorter ageing than its siblings ‘Sela’ maintains Roda’s unmistakable hallmark of elegance and tannin fineness. Sourced from sustainable vineyards. 96% Tempranillo with Graciano. 2006 Roda Reserva limited 2006 Roda Reserva 500ml limited 2006 Roda Reserva 1.5L magnum limited Red+black fruit palate extends with freshness and balance. Nice crispness works into the back where fine oak, natural acid, mineral flourishes, trademark velvet fruit tannins and purple florals feature in a quiet riot. Composed, sensual, taut; a supremely delicate and deft wine. 97% Tempranillo with Graciano. 2006 Roda 1 Reserva 2006 Roda 1 Reserva 500ml 2006 Roda 1 Reserva 1.5L magnum limited All blue-black and beautiful to smell: meat’n’blood, plus road metal minerals gain pretty violet/neroli florals. Astonishing tannin maturity, great spiciness with fine oak on the back palate; fruit runs in the plum and cola range. Power and enormous finesse unfolds like a perfectly told story. Wonderful wine, 100% Tempranillo.

2006 Roda Reserva 2006 Roda Reserva 500ml

2006 Roda 1 Reserva

$150

6

2006 Roda 1 Reserva 500ml

$100

12

2006 Roda 1 Reserva 1.5L

$330

3

2007 Roda ‘Cirsion’

$475

3

2006 Roda ‘Cirsion’

$475

3

$1100

3

Artadi

RRP

QTY

2008 ‘Orobio’ Tempranillo

$30

12

2007 ‘Vinas de Gain’ Tempranillo

$75

6

2007 ‘Vinas de Gain’ Tempranillo 1.5L

$145

1

2007 ‘Pagos Viejos’ Tempranillo

$365

6

2007 ‘Pagos Viejos’ Tempranillo 1.5L

$675

1

2007 ‘Vina El Pison’ Tempranillo

$825

6

2007 ‘Vina El Pison’ Tempranillo 1.5L

$1825

1

2006 Roda ‘Cirsion’ 1.5L

2007 Roda ‘Cirsion’ 2006 Roda ‘Cirsion’ limited 2006 Roda ‘Cirsion’ 1.5L magnum limited Product of a fanatical research into fruit tannins, Cirsion is born with wine-like ripe, long tannins, needing relatively little softening. It is marvelous-great velvet-&-violet juice cut with perfect pithy tannins; with nerve from ripe acid, earthily spiced, dry and rolling. 100% Tempranillo.

Artadi, Rioja Alavesa Owned and hand-made by Juan Carlos Lopez de Lacalle, Artadi’s wines are based on old sloping vineyards near the village of Labastida. 2008 Artadi ‘Orobio’ Tempranillo screwcap Meaty, fleshy with typical Riojan dried herb/floral touches—sage, lavender ... Good concentration and length. Sees just a touch of oak. 2007 Artadi ‘Vinas de Gain’ Tempranillo new vintage 2007 Artadi ‘Vinas de Gain’ Tempranillo 1.5L magnum Just beautiful smelling wine! Perfect harmony, a long soft middle and easy landing. A wine of grace and fine character. Aged 15 months in 20% new oak, the rest is 1-3 y.o. French. 75% stainless/25% barrel fermentation. A blend of 3 high altitude vineyards with vines aged 20-30 years. 2007 Artadi ‘Pagos Viejos’ Tempranillo new vintage 2007 Artadi ‘Pagos Viejos’ Tempranillo 1.5L magnum Pagos Viejos are old vineyards, in this case one of 50 and another of 80 years. Lovely wine, leads with liquorous red cherry glammed up with a sweep of Riojan dried herb aromatics. Great volume, spicy fruit and ripe natural tannins/acid riding on very fine oak. Fermented and aged 18 months in new French oak. 2007 Artadi ‘Vina El Pison’ Tempranillo new vintage 2007 Artadi ‘Vina El Pison’ Tempranillo 1.5L magnum Fine purply fruits, blue florals and those Rioja dried herbs, and gorgeous sweet-sour-spicy pippy berries. To say that it has the manner, perfume and texture of Grand Cru Burgundy says very good things about Burgundy?!

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Tempranillo & Garnacha Reds D.O. Rioja

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34

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Telmo Rodriguez, Rioja Alavesa

Telmo Rodriguez

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2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘LZ’ Tempranillo new packaging, new vintage Literally a new Rioja—fresh-but-concentrated, tight, unwooded. Impeccable fruit/tannin/acid harmony. Typical Rioja characters of red berry, roasted meat, and high note of dried herb and blue-note Tempranillo. Decent ‘heft’ mid-palate, with a minerally-dancey finish.

2009 ‘LZ’ Tempranillo

$30

12

2007 ‘Lanzaga’ Tempranillo

$58

6

2007 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Lanzaga’ Tempranillo Cola/cherry stone/heather/animal skin perfumes. Terrific fruit/French oak synthesis. Spicy, nutty-slinky structure. If you could make Chianti from the jubier tendencies of Tempranillo, this’d be it!

2005 ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Tempranillo

$185

6

2006 ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Tempranillo

$185

6

Remelluri

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2005 Remelluri Reserva

$75

12

2004 Remelluri Reserva 375ml

$40

12

2004 Remelluri Reserva 1.5L

$165

6

1999 Remelluri Gran Reserva

$150

6

Palacios Remondo

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2009 ‘La Vendimia’

$30

12

2007 ‘La Montesa’

$45

12

2006 ‘La Montesa’ 375ml

$29

24

2007 ‘La Montesa’ 1.5L

$90

6

2005 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Tempranillo limited 2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Altos de Lanzaga’ Tempranillo limited Telmo’s pet project—a few barrels of very special mountain Tempranillo. Very classy, gorgeous wine. This is Telmo’s great expression of pure Tempranillo in conjunction with highly specific terroir/regional influences.

Remelluri, Rioja Alavesa Telmo’s family property, and as close to the old-school as we’re prepared to stand! Lovely earthen-perfumed and elegant, but well short of the dried out abstract plane of old. Now aged in French oak. 1 Roda 2 Remelluri 3 Artadi 4 Telmo Rodriguez 5 Palacios Remondo

2005 Remelluri Reserva 2004 Remelluri Reserva 375ml back vintage release 2004 Remelluri Reserva 1.5L magnum back vintage release Fine Rioja aromatics of dried herb and walnut husk, a mix of red-black fruits, a touch of anise. Fruit is well-packed, soft and plush with a thread of pencil case oak and classic harmonious acid/tannin/oak finish. 1999 Remelluri Gran Reserva Gentle and harmonious (rather than merely dry and oxidised, as such styles almost always are), mild, long and fine. Smells like a hall cupboard full of old coats, one of which has some licorice and tobacco in its pockets.

Palacios Remondo, Rioja Baja This is the family estate of Alvaro Palacios (see also his Bierzo wines p.12, and Priorat wines on p.11). It’s the star property of Rioja Baja, quite high up, devoted to Garnacha-led blends and all about the smell, taste and texture of the red clay dirt and local herb influence. Predominantly Garnacha, then Tempranillo with Graciano and Mazuelo. Balanced red cherry-stone and black jube fruit, good clay-earth expression, mountain herb, wood-spice and very nice acid. The terroir nose is a hybrid of wild herb, fennel and tobacco, imprinted into the lovely smell of clay dirt—dreamy! 2009 Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ new vintage Mid-weight, and only seeing a short stint in oak this is a delight and great value. Now 50/50 Garnacha Tempranillo. 2007 Remondo ‘La Montesa’ new vintage 2006 Remondo ‘La Montesa’ 375ml new vintage 2007 Remondo ‘La Montesa’ 1.5L magnum new vintage Aged in predominantly older French oak; a very elegant and savoury wine - long and beautifully stylish.

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Tempranillo Reds D.O. Ribera Del Duero

Ribera del Duero is nowadays on equal footing with Rioja as the premier Tempranillo region of Spain. It’s a very special viticultural site — an open river valley system about 700 metres above sea level. Warm by day, cool by night, facilitating fruit ripening and vine de-stressing. Great expression with good integration of acid and tannin, and lots of retained perfume results from the climate. Sandy soils add a fresh, chalky elegance to the tannins.

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Ribera del Duero

Telmo Rodriguez

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2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘M2 de Matallana’ Tempranillo Boysenberry, soy and Asian masterstock—all very moody and sophisticated. Meat, tobacco, drenched dark fruit, anise, full but gentle fruit tannins and some French oak tucked away. The descriptors sound masculine and strong, but in Telmo’s hands they become graceful rather than steroidal.

2006 ‘M2 de Matallana’ Tempranillo

$75

6

$225

6

Cillar de Silos

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2009 ‘El Quintanal’

$30

12

2009 Joven de Silos

$40

12

2007 Silos Crianza

$75

12

2006 Silos Crianza 1.5L

$155

6

2007 Silos ‘Torresilo’

$130

12

2006 Silos ‘Torresilo’

$130

12

2006 Silos ‘Torresilo’ 1.5L

$275

6

2006 Silos ‘Flor de Silos’

$185

6

Dominio de Pingus

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2007 ‘Flor de Pingus’

$185

12

$1350

12

$185

12

$1350

12

2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Matallana’ Tempranillo A truly great modern, bio-dynamic old-vine Tempranillo. Blue flowers fossilised in dried blood, fantastic concentration, but always savoury, never OTT with fruit sweetness—the glycerol is at the same time terrifically minerally. There’s an incredibly long, twining structure down the back straight, with wonderful natural fruit tannins and acid wrapping and rolling with the oak, forming an incredibly fissile unit.

2006 ‘Matallana’ Tempranillo

Cillar de Silos, D.O. Ribera del Duero In the Northern hill-slopes of the valley, the Aragon family have a couple of truly special patches of very gnarled old Tempranillo vines. Wines of elegence and concentration, they’re savoury with great earthy perfumes. 2009 ‘El Quintanal’ Joven normacorc, new vintage EQ derives its name from Quintana del Pidio, Silos’ home town, so this is The Kid From Quintana. Up front meat/earth, with a rosehip lift; it’s full soft and round through the mid-part and a nice sourberry close. Simple, delicious, correct and very, very good value for this appellation. 2009 Joven de Silos normacorc, new vintage High class young Tempranillo, otherwise known as a Joven. Textbook varietal/regional character, and a very good elegant drink. Very bloody and delicious, it’s both gamey and very smooth, concentrated and elegant. 2007 Silos Crianza 2008 Silos Crianza 1.5L magnum due early 2011 Fresh, almost zippy black cherry over a hung meat with a little brambly-spicy nuance and comforting kola-nut. A crisp/lifted acid thread through the middle IS the vintage and around which the wine entirely revolves. A successful early-drinker, very good work from the Aragon kids in a tough year. 2007 Silos ‘Torresilo’ new vintage 2006 Silos ‘Torresilo’ 2006 Silos ‘Torresilo’ 1.5L magnum Beautifully made, perfectly integrated—a bargain for cellaring. Full, rich and spicy red-black fruits, very silky tannins. Great concentration, but the perfume, silk and spice keep it clearly in the elegant register, despite the impressive fruit heft. 2006 Silos ‘Flor de Silos’ Fancy, fine and beautifully correct wine, neither big nor over-powering as such. Where Torresilo is floral and lush, Flor is more dark and masculine, linear and reserved—sort of the Burgundy v Bordeaux argument about Tempranillo’s natural style in a sister-brother face-off!

Dominio de Pingus, D.O. Ribera del Duero Pingus was established in 1995 by Peter Sisseck, who had already made a name for himself as winemaker at Hacienda Monasterio. He located three separate plots, each containing very old vines of Tinto Fino, and aimed to produce “an unmistakably Spanish, terroir-driven wine... a garage wine.” The gnarled old vines have been carefully husbanded back to health - the trunks straightened, lowered, and pruned back to 1-2 buds per stump. Yields tend to an incredibly low 9 hl/ha. 2007 Pingus ‘Flor de Pingus’ limited 2007 Pingus limited 2008 Pingus ‘Flor de Pingus’ due early 2011 2008 Pingus due early 2011

2007 Pingus 2008 ‘Flor de Pingus’ 2008 Pingus

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Tempranillo Reds D.O. Cigales

D.O. Cigales is a minor region, and completes the set of 4 D.O.’s revolving around the once-Capital of Spain, Valladolid, 2 hours to the North of Madrid. Toro is to the West, Rueda to the South, Ribera del Duero to the East and in the North, Cigales. Usual story — high altitude, gentle slopes, poor sandy dry soils and little old bushvines producing a good earthy-elegant intro/pourer from Telmo and a lovely (and similarly earthy-elegant) premium from Ana Martin.

D.O. Toro D.O. Toro is a valley running south from the town of Toro. Richer alluvial soils than the poor sand profile of neighbouring Rueda, Cigales and Ribera del Duero, and just slightly warmer. Wines here tend to be pretty powerful. With the region becoming popular for its ability to produce fructose, many over-sexed, highly priced ‘Parkery’ brutes are emerging. These, however, combine generosity with balance and drinkability.

Tierras de Castille Includes the big old D.O.’s of Valdepenas and La Mancha, new sub-region D.O.’s within La Mancha such as D.O. Ucles and Ribera del Jucar, as well as “super country wines” simply labelled TDC.

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Cigales

Telmo Rodriguez

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2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Vina 105’ Tempranillo 2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Vina 105’ Tempranillo new vintage A good intro to the Cigales region. Elegant, gentle uncomplicated and earthy, it’s unwooded, savoury, with classical dried raspberry, herb and meat resting on a soft, natural, tannin and acid frame. Relaxed, fun wine, but with the unmistakable character of low-cropped old-vine material. Contains a touch of Garnacha.

2008 ‘Vina 105’ Tempranillo

$30

12

2009 ‘Vina 105’ Tempranillo

$30

12

Traslanzas, D.O. Cigales

Traslanzas

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2005 Traslanzas Tempranillo An elegant wine made by Ana Martín. Plum, tobacco and dark chocolate, with soft berry. The purple spectrum drives the harmonious palate – medium rich, long and glidey, savoury without dryness. Impeccable balance.

2005 Traslanzas Tempranillo

$85

6

Tribal Wines

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2008 Auroch Tempranillo

$26

12

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Toro

Telmo Rodriguez

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2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Dehesa Gago’ Tempranillo new vintage Riotous brambly black-berried fruit, with soft earthy tannins and a buzz of natural acidity. Dark, meaty, delicious. It’s a full style—glyceric richness of canned black cherry is impregnated with red florals; but mainly through great natural acid, manages still to finish fresh and bright.

2009 ‘Dehesa Gago’ Tempranillo

$32

12

2008 ‘Gago’ Tempranillo

$66

12

2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Gago’ Tempranillo new vintage Entirely handmade, biologically grown, matured 18 months in new French barriques.

2007 ‘Pago la Jara’ Tempranillo

$130

6

2007 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Pago la Jara’ Tempranillo new vintage 2006 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Pago la Jara’ Tempranillo limited True to the character of low-crop Tempranillo: pithy black cherry—lovely and succulent; savoury meaty/earthy middle; a long, gentle drying dark spice finish. Toro fruit tends towards the bramble, cassis and cola spectrum. Relatively elegant—a refinement of Gago, not an extracted concept. Accessible now, with a good cellar future.

2006 ‘Pago la Jara’ Tempranillo

$130

6

Navarro Lopez, D.O. Valdapenas

Navarro Lopez

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2009 Navarro Lopez ‘Tierracalar’ Tempranillo new label Simple, cheap, correct. Light cola, cherry, animal hide, red fruits and suprisingly well balanced and developed palate spread. A mid-weight crowd pleaser, not a brain teaser.

2009 ‘Tierracalar’ Tempranillo

$20

6

2007 Don Aurelio Tempranillo Crianza

$25

12

Tribal Wines, D.O. Toro 2008 Auroch Tempranillo new vintage Another from Ana Martín’s careful hand. A refreshingly mild 13.5% alcohol entry expression of Toro. Auroch means ‘wild bull’ — it has regionally typical dark fruit, full tannin, some nice fine minerality and a ‘garrigue’-like dried herb/flower character, but no sense of bigness or excess weight/heat.

2007 Navarro Lopez ‘Don Aurelio’ Tempranillo Crianza Billy tea, cola, meaty varietal characters; balanced oak/age adds bloody, iron filings earthiness and savoury stuffing on the palate. Our version of “Rioja” (in the traditional sense, meaning the older, flatter oaky-dusty style of traditional Spanish) – however, the reason we stock it is for it’s clean varietal fruit character, and no daggy-oxidised oakiness … sorta old-fashioned BUT fresh and correct.

10

Mencia Reds

D.O. Valdeorras Galicia’s red grape, Mencia is grown from the Atlantic coast in the west, all the way to Galicia’s easternmost D.O. – Valdeorras; continuing up the hill into adjacent Bierzo, the westernmost of the central ‘CastilianContinental’ D.O.s. Galician-Atlantic Mencia is angular, snappy, herbal and relatively light in cast, reflecting its growing circumstance in constantly wet climes.

D.O. Bierzo Continental climate Mencia tends to be fuller-fleshed, with longer, softer tannins and more savoury juice. But don’t expect BIG wine as such, however. Bierzo is a hilly region with both relatively low lying farmlands and also some spectacular high country vineyards of very special smoky-mineral schist soils. In the past decade a handful of dedicated reformers, led by Alvaro Palacios and his nephew Ricardo, have taken old vines formerly given to production of forgettable co-op plonk and demonstrated that under very particular circumstances, Mencia can make truly wonderful wines – world class and beguiling.

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Valdeorras

Telmo Rodriguez

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2008 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Gaba do Xil’ Mencia 2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Gaba do Xil’ Mencia due January An unwooded Mencia, from the same property on which Telmo makes his lovely Gaba Godello. Roses and red berry-plum fruit; trademark Mencia long smooth fruit tannin, closed with a snip of soft natural acid. 12.5% alcohol, but perfectly formed ripe tannin-acid profile and crisp ‘Atlantic’ fruit.

2008 ‘Gaba do Xil’ Mencia

$32

12

2009 ‘Gaba do Xil’ Mencia

$32

12

Pittacum, D.O. Bierzo

Pittacum

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2006 Pittacum ‘Barrica’ Mencia normacorc Based in the village of Arganza, Pittacum is the Roman name for amphorae, several of which were found on the site. The project is based on 50-80 y.o. dry-grown bush vines. Strict care is taken with the fruit - green harvest, double selections ... The ‘Barrica’ tag means aged in wood but short of the usual Crianza term - about six months in predominantly French oak. Lovely leesy touch mid-palate underscores the ‘Cornassy’ aspect.

2006 ‘Barrica’ Mencia

$46

12

Descendientes de J. Palacios

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2008 DJP ‘Pétalos’ Mencia

$49

12

2008 DJP ‘Pétalos’ Mencia 1.5L

$110

1

2007 DJP ‘Corullón’ Mencia

$130

12

2006 DJP ‘Corullón’ Mencia

$130

12

DJP Rare Release Single Vineyards

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Descendientes de J. Palacios, D.O. Bierzo Named after Alvaro Palacios’ father, Jose Palacios Remondo, this is a very exciting project, producing wines of vivid fruit and wild herb, fragrant, intense-but-delicate. Cornas-like wild Syrah characters meld with perfumed, slippery-tannined juicy Burgundian aspects. Alvaro and his nephew, Ricardo Perez, have renovated amazing steep-sloped, very high altitude old vineyards into biodynamic masterpieces. 2008 DJP ‘Pétalos’ Mencia 2008 DJP ‘Pétalos’ Mencia 1.5L magnum A high-quality introductory ‘media-crianza’ having spent six months in French oak. Great intro to the slink’n’stink, fleshy beauty of Mencia. 2007 DJP ‘Corullón’ Mencia 2006 DJP ‘Corullón’ Mencia limited The ‘village’ wine - Corullón being the village in Bierzo where these wonderful hillside bush-vines occur at their finest. Purple-rimmed fresh blood appearance, smelling of hung game and raspberry/plum jube, with lashings of racy-fresh minerality. Beautifully integrated fine oak characters, bright acidity and succulent tannins. The ‘Cru’ wines below, each take their name from a single hillside towering above Corullón township.

DJP Rare Release Single Vineyards, D.O. Bierzo As of this vintage, ‘San Martin’ is no longer made – this fruit has been prioritised to ensure absolute quality and amazing value in the ‘Corullon’. A thoughtful gesture on Ricardo and Alvaro’s part. ‘Moncerbal’, ‘Lamas’ and ‘Faraona’ are now the complete set of single vineyards. 2007 DJP ‘Moncerbal’ new vintage 2007 DJP ‘Moncerbal’ 1.5L magnum Immense and profound: voluptuous, wild-herbed, complex, funky...totally individual. 100 y.o. vines, 5 barrels.

2007 DJP ‘Moncerbal’

$325

12

2007 DJP ‘Moncerbal’ 1.5L

$675

1

2007 DJP ‘Las Lamas’ new vintage 2007 DJP ‘Las Lamas’ 1.5L magnum Mineral, cherry, spice and velvet: totally together and focused, deep and ethereal. Wild, powerful, so together. A 70° slope tilled twice yearly by horse – an incredible, spiritual vineyard to visit. 6 barrels produced.

2007 DJP ‘Las Lamas’

$325

12

2007 DJP ‘Las Lamas’ 1.5L

$675

1

2007 DJP ‘La Faraona’

$1075

12

2007 DJP ‘La Faraona’ 1.5L

$2275

1

2007 DJP ‘La Faraona’ new vintage 2007 DJP ‘La Faraona’ 1.5L magnum From a single parcel on the highest hill in Corullon, at 855 metres. Very steep, south-east facing, planted to 65 year old vines. Unbelievable wine. Unfiltered, with total production of 2 barrels.

11

Garnacha Reds

D.O. Valdepenas tierras De Castille Valdapenas D.O. is part of the La Mancha sprawl south of Madrid. Generally, hot windy ‘badland’s but nowadays, some determined modernisers are making tidy stuff. Tierras de Castille is a catch-all appellation for wines grown outside the borders of existing D.O.s. Telmo’s Pegaso is in the mountain village of Cebreros west of Madrid. The TDC tag can also be used as a declassification move if one makes wines contrary to the rules of the appellation within which their winery sits.

D.O. Navarra The autonomous region of Navarra region extends from the central Pyrenees to the Ebro Valley. Spectacular mountains in the north give way to green, undulating foothills and, in the south, an arid plain. The vineyards of D.O. Navarra are located in the southern part of the region, between Pamplona and the plains.

D.O. Montsant The new D.O. of Montsant encircles D.O. Priorato, and the best sites are very reminiscent of its more famous neighbour. Dry, stony mountain soils (Llicorella) planted in the main to wonderful old Garnacha bush vines. The wines are wonderfully concentrated and minerally from the slatey soil. Absolute bargains in world wine terms. Capçanes, a ‘post-modern co-op’ is the star property.

Vina Ginesa Reservas, D.O. Valdapenas

Vina Ginesa Reservas

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2009 Granrojo ‘Rojo’ Garnacha new vintage Floral-geranium, bright red fruits, mace spice and crunchy-dusty raspberries. Varietal as hell! Perfectly defined, clean fruit with soft natural tannins.

2009 ‘Rojo’ Garnacha

$22

12

Telmo Rodriguez

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2007 ‘Pegaso Barrancos de Pizzara’ Garnacha

$85

6

2007 ‘Pegaso Granito’ Garnacha

$85

6

Santa Cruz de Artazu, D.O. Navarra

Santa Cruz de Artazu

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2008 Artazuri Garnacha screwcap 2009 Artazuri Garnacha screwcap, due January Perfectly varietal with red fruits and a little vegetal edge—strawberry, raspberry and radish, then some darker rosehip and tea. Juicy, fresh and long with a gentle tannin fuzz and spritely acid close. Good, honest and fun.

2008 Artazuri Garnacha

$28

12

2009 Artazuri Garnacha

$28

12

2006 Santa Cruz de Artazu Garnacha

$100

6

2006 Santa Cruz de Artazu Garnacha 1.5L

$260

6

Cellars Capçanes

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2007 Capçanes ‘Lasendal’ Garnacha 2008 Capçanes ‘Lasendal’ Garnacha due January 10 months in used 500 litre French, this is savoury Garnacha of great elegance. Rather than the raspberry of French Grenache, this is in a darker beefstock and briary blackberry register, with typical mineral-floral complexity. ‘La Sendal’ = ‘the path”, indicating the site halfway up the mountain to the towering Cabrida.

2007 ‘Lasendal’ Garnacha

$40

12

2008 ‘Lasendal’ Garnacha

$40

12

2007 ‘Cabrida’ Garnacha

$150

6

2007 Capçanes ‘Cabrida’ Garnacha Cabrida means mountain goat, and it’s a serious goat track that arrives at this stony mountain-top vineyard planted to tiny old bushvines. Creamy vanilla berry, roast coffee/chicory, floral/earth perfume. Palate is juicy, with neat extract and vibrant earthy spices. Long and nervy, despite the richness and alcohol. As ‘maker, Jurgen Wagner says: “it’s sexy ... like instant attraction”. Tiny 0.6 kg/vine harvest, 14 months new French oak.

2004 ‘Flor de Primavera’ Garnacha

$100

6

2006 ‘Calissa’ Garnacha

$225

6

Telmo Rodriguez, Cebreros, Tierras de Castille These wines are sourced from vineyards covering two soil profiles – schist, grown at nearly 1000m altitude and a granite single vineyard nestled among Green Oaks and Pinos Parasol (Parasol Pines). Currently 100% organic and using largely biodynamic viticulture the soil is being renovated after decades of abuse with chemical fertilisers and herbicides. 2007 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Pegaso Barrancos de Pizzara’ Garnacha new wine A ‘barranco’ is a radical vineyard, and they really are: brown schist, incredibly steep, ultra-high-altitude, no ‘soil’ to speak of, and quite minerally with lots of quartz. Smoke, leather, ink, boysenberry fruit with volume and concentration, succulent with drying tannins, big spice and a ravishing hit of pure dried rose. 2007 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Pegaso Granito’ Garnacha new wine These high altitude, granite vineyards are flatter in profile than Pizzara and oriented to the north. Cold mineral soil and cool orientation promotes finesse and delicacy in the fruit of these 100 yo+ bush vines. Plummy; plush with rosehip, briar and dried wildflower complexity and a definite granite freshness.

2006 Santa Cruz de Artazu Garnacha 2006 Santa Cruz de Artazu Garnacha 1.5L magnum A more concentrated version of the Artazuri, with composed spicy oak, fruit tannin and acid that fashion an almost thrusting finish and pull red cherry fruit along the palate. Good concentration, length and balance.

Cellars Capçanes, D.O. Montsant

2004 Capçanes ‘Flor de Primavera’ Garnacha kosher wine 40% Garnacha/30% Cariñena/30% Cabernet Sauvignon, hand-made by the Rabbi of Barcelona. Unfiltered, aged in new French oak. Ink-dark, vibrant, bright aromas of black cherry, plums, currants. Rich, seductive cherry fruit, ripe but soft tannins, fresh and minerally with a super long finish. 2006 Capçanes ‘Calissa’ Garnacha limited A selection of Cabrida material, from vineyards that are part schist, part limestone, Calissa expresses the purity and clarity of the limestone. Extra volume, extract and impact but far from big, international or Parkery. As fine, floral-herby and delicate as high-end Garnacha/Grenache can possibly get.

12

Garnacha & Cariñena Reds

Alvaro Palacios, D.O. Priorat

Alvaro Palacios

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D.O. Priorat

Garnacha, Cabernet, Cariñena, with dollops of Syrah from the Priorat Cims or hilltops. The stuff of legend.

2008 ‘Camins del Priorat’

$49

12

Schisty, very high altitude mountain slopes planted to incredibly low-yield Cariñena and Garnacha. Wildly famous and expensive (especially in the US). Heady, wild, earthy, robust ... the best are also fine, elegant and perfumed.

2008 Alvaro Palacios ‘Camins del Priorat’ Roses, cherries, apples, a bit of schisty-smokey stuff with pretty red fruits. Poised, nice pippy fruit, good sweet-fleshy tannins, oak has to be in there somewhere but hard to see. Simple, fun Priorat and a good drink.

2008 ‘Les Terrasses’

$85

12

2008 ‘Les Terrasses’ 1.5L

$200

1

2007 ‘Finca Dofi’

$145

12

2006 ‘Finca Dofi’ 1.5L

$210

1

2007 ‘L’Ermita’

$1395

12

2007 ‘L’Ermita’ 1.5L

$3350

1

An Negra Vit

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2007 AN/2 Callet/ Montenegro/Syrah

$60

6

2008 AN/2 Callet/ Montenegro/Syrah

$60

6

2006 Anima Negre Callet

$115

6

2005 Son Negre Callet

$225

3

Tribal Wines

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2005 Virat Montenegro Callet

$37

6

2008 Alvaro Palacios ‘Les Terrasses’ new vintage 2008 Alvaro Palacios ‘Les Terrasses’ 1.5L magnum Slick, black fruits, black stony-mineral-earth and licorice aromas. Good floral, spice and fruit tannin. 12 months in barrel after stainless and lagar fermentation. All indigenous—just Garnacha and Carineña. 2007 Alvaro Palacios ‘Finca Dofi’ 2007 Alvaro Palacios ‘Finca Dofi’ 1.5L magnum A gorgeous boof of velvet perfume. Great balance, extreme length. Pomegranate, cherry, floral, rose petal, soot and tons of mineral. Fermented in foudre, 6 months on malo lees and 18 months barrel maturation. 2007 Alvaro Palacios ‘L’Ermita’ 2007 Alvaro Palacios ‘L’Ermita’ 1.5L magnum Deservedly profound ... Soot, pomegranate, black cherry, licorice; elegant, concentrated, precise. Defined layers: fruit pith/lilac florals; mineral/licorice; oak/nutmeg spice; sweet, pippy berry and a fuzz of fruit tannin.

Callet & Montenegro Reds D.O. Mallorca

Yes, real wine from the holiday paradise of Spain’s wealthy. Yachts, bikinis and also Callet and Montenegro—the local red varieties. So far, only two truely great producers: Miguelangel Cerdà i Capó, producing ‘the black animal’ and his friend Ana Martín with her ‘stripy dog’.

ÀN Negra Vit, D.O. Mallorca 2007 AN/2 Callet/Montenegro/Syrah 2008 AN/2 Callet/Montenegro/Syrah due February Barolo in colour but drinks a bit like Southern Burgundy. Lots of game/hide, nut and spice, with red-black fruits. Woody but good. 40 y.o. 65% Callet, with 20% Montenegro and 15% Syrah. 12 months oak, 40% new. 2006 Anima Negre Callet new vintage Fluent, elegant, mature tannins and lovely oak. 95% Callet (and Montenegro) from 50 y.o. vines. Aged 17 months in new French barriques. Savoury-earthy fruit with iron minerality out back. Firm structure, long and fine. Big sister, Son Negre (a sub-region name), is more rarified—the ultimate expression of Callet’s potential. 2005 Son Negre Callet Originating from three small, close planted 60+ y.o. vineyards planted on the poorest soils and gently cooled by sea breezes. The vine roots battle for nutrients with surrounding fruit trees. Ludicrously-low production of less than half a kilo per vine. Like the ÀN, Son is aged for 18 months in 100% new French barriques.

Tribal Wines, D.O. Mallorca Another Ana Martin project (see also Auroch and Traslanzas), and working closely with An Negra’s Miquelangel. Virat means ‘stripy’ and is the name given to a rare type of Mallorcan sheepdog. Evidently the Virat dogs are quite unique, which can also be said of these wines. 2005 Virat Montenegro Callet Subtle fruit, spice and earth notes reveal hints of mountain herb/bush. An elegant palate is well-balanced with soft, well integrated tannins. Lovely, good value.

13

Monastrell Reds D.O. YECLA

La Purisima, D.O. Yecla

La Purisima

RRP

QTY

2009 La Purisima ‘Estio’ Monastrell Blend screwcap, new vintage Simple yet really good. Varietal warm bitumen/dried fig/honey/black fruit Monastrell, with a juicy-jubey touch up from Syrah. Very silky with decent length and a nice tapered palate to a finish where the fruit tannins live.

2009 ‘Estio’ Monastrell Blend

$22

12

2006 ‘Trapio’ Monastrell

$45

6

2008 ‘En Escensia’ Monastrell Dulce

$45

6

2006 La Purisima ‘Trapio’ Monastrell Dry-grown, 70 y.o original root stock Monastrell—a rare pre-phylloxera gem. Floral, with potash earthiness, dried blood, mountain herb, truffle-cigar and leather. Soft, juicy-spicy, a great wine of considerable value. 2008 La Purisima ‘En Escensia’ Monastrell Dulce This is delicious. Smells of blueberry and cowhide, with lovely spice and sweet, supple ripe tannins, gentle oak tucked in. Fresh finish with good acidity - great balance. 13% alcohol, and 70 g/lt residual sugar.

El Seque, D.O. Alicante

El Seque

RRP

QTY

2009 ‘Laderas de El Seque’ Monastrell Blend screwcap, new vintage Black tea, smoked cane, licorice, honeyed dates—it could only be Monastrell (with some Cabernet and Syrah). Lovely light, clean and balanced, perfect fruit tannin/acid profile. Simple is sometimes just outrageously good.

2009 ‘Laderas de El Seque’ Monastrell Blend

$28

12

2008 El Seque Monastrell due 2011 A really saturated dark red in appearance, and dazzling nose of chocolate figs and balsamic dark berries. Powerful rich, jubey fruit tapers to spice with good tannins and very finely tucked oak (12 months, 20% new, balance 1-3 y.o.).

2008 El Seque Monastrell

$85

6

Telmo Rodriguez

RRP

QTY

2009 Telmo Rodriguez ‘Almuvedre’ Monastrell screwcap, new vintage Tarry, meaty fruit with lovely berry profile, lifted florals and slurpy tannins—classical Monastrell, with the inimitable touch of Telmo Rodriguez. Great, very low-cropped old vines fruit, fermented in concrete, aged in stainless, bottled fresh.

2009 ‘Almuvedre’ Monastrell

$26

12

Primitivo Quiles, D.O. Alicante

Primitivo Quiles

RRP

QTY

D.O. Alicante

Primitivo Quiles ‘Fondillon Vino Nobile Gran Reserva’ Solera 1948

Fondillón is a classic, Monastrell-based rancio (a purposely oxidized, slightly sweet), once nearly extinct wine. While these may belong stylistically with the sherries, but they are NOT fortified so ... Fondillon is the local appellation name for an old solera-aged style based on Monastrell. Rancio is acheived through long ageing in 1700 litre barrels.

Primitivo Quiles ‘Fondillon Vino Nobile Gran Reserva’ Solera 1892 rare release Deep, nutty with roasted chestnut and floor polish aromatics, great elegance, lovely earthen astringency. At 12 g/l, tastes quite dry. 16% a/v, is all natural - this remarkable wine is unfortified despite 60 years barrel-age character. Solera 1892 is extraordinarily rare - 100+ years of age, and only a hundred or so bottles taken out of solera each year.

‘Fondillon Vino Nobile Gran Reserva’ Solera 1948

$115

12

Solera 1892

$275

1

‘Gran Imperial’ Vino Generoso Reserva Especial Solera 1892

$395

1

D.O. ALICANTE

Telmo Rodriguez, D.O. Alicante

Fondillon & Generoso Solera-Aged MONASTRELLS

Primitivo Quiles ‘Gran Imperial’ Vino Generoso Reserva Especial Solera 1892 rare release Moscatel–Monastrell Blend RARE!? There are 102 bottles drawn of this every 2 years; TSA currently holds 17 of them! This is a single big barrel which started out as the 1892 Fondillon solera of Monastrell. It was aged as such for 50 years, but since then has spent 50 years being progressively topped with Moscatel EXTRA (a ‘black’ Moscatel, sweetened and darkened by the addition of Arrope, or cooked must of Moscatel). Deep, long, figgy Monastrell is the spine, with the back half and finish given a sweet coating of dark Moscatel. MAD MAD wine and really, truly great.

14

Portuguese Red Wines ‘The Douro Boys’ D.O.C Douro

HOLY SCHIST … IT’s THE DOURO BOYS! The Douro Valley has long been home to production of Port wines (see our selection on p. 16). For the past couple of decades, however, a movement towards increasingly fine and elegant table wines has been underway. This movement has by now clearly culminated in a successful new industry, pioneered by the Douro Boys: VALLADO, CRASTO, MEAO, NIEPOORT, DONA MARIA. Each work mainly with ‘field blends’—old, co-planted single vineyards containing a mixture of Douro indigenous varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cão, Tinta Barroca, Sousão and more. For all, a feature is retaining the smoky mineral tang of the Douro terroir’s schist soils.

Quinta do Vallado, D.O.C. Douro

Quinta do Vallado

RRP

QTY

Over the past decade Cristiano van Zeller has assisted Vallado modernise and shift from grower to A-grade estate producer.

2007 Vallado Douro

$37

6

2007 Vallado Douro 2008 Vallado Douro due January 2008 Vallado Douro 375ml new size Tourigas Nacional and Franca, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz and Sousão. Musk, game, lots of ink’n’spice, gentian violet perfume; earthy, juicy, complex palate. A mid-weight, incredibly smooth, charming wine.

2008 Vallado Douro

$37

6

2008 Vallado Douro 375ml

$25

6

2008 Vallado Touriga Nacional

$65

6

Quinta do Vale Doña Maria

RRP

QTY

2005 Doña Maria Douro

$115

6

2007 Doña Maria Douro

$115

6

Dirk Niepoort is one of the most important thinkers on the Douro scene, and a noted innovator.

Niepoort

RRP

QTY

2008 Niepoort ‘Sempar’ Douro new wine Fresh, fruit driven with Douro complexity. Intense red fruit and spice teams with a typical schist character. The palate is vibrant and appealing, with bright fruit, juicy tannins and good acidity that extends the back palate. 2008 Niepoort ‘Vertente’ Douro new vintage Meaning ‘the slope of a hill’, this is a fesh take on tradition. Fruit is trodden and fermented in temperature controlled stainless lagares before 16 months in oak. Game-cherry-ink with licorice, red berry and spicy acid.

2008 ‘Sempar’ Douro

$32

6

2008 ‘Vertente’ Douro

$66

6

2007 ‘Redoma’ Douro

$115

6

2007 ‘Batuta’ Douro

$200

6

2006 ‘Charme’ Douro

$200

6

2007 ‘Charme’ Douro

$200

6

2007 Niepoort ‘Batuta’ Douro new vintage

2004 ‘Robustus’ Douro

$200

6

2007 Niepoort ‘Charme’ Douro Small, sheltered vineyards produce gentle and elegant fruit, with relatively low alcohol and high acidity—Dirk’s take on “Douro Burgundy”! Fermented in lagare, with malo and ageing in French barrique. Outlandish indeed!

2005 ‘Robustus’ Douro

$200

6

2006 ‘Projectos’ Pinot Noir

$225

6

2004 Niepoort ‘Robustus’ Douro 2005 Niepoort ‘Robustus’ Douro

2005 ‘omleT’ Douro

$115

6

2007 DODA Douro-Dão

$150

6

2008 Vallado Touriga Nacional new vintage Unblended Touriga Nacional is very rarely anywhere near this good. Violet, meat, earth/spice/spearmint and Douro slate-iness. Great juiciness, and unusually for straight TN, has sideways texture and fine linear tannin.

Quinta do Vale Doña Maria, D.O.C. Douro Former owner of Noval, Cristiano van Zeller is heart-and-soul of the Douro boys. A straight shooting giant in several respects. Vale Doña Maria is situated in the relatively cool Rio Torto tributary valley. 2005 Doña Maria Douro limited 2007 Doña Maria Douro new vintage Small-goods, pippy spice; raspberry highs, black bean lows. Game-savoury, high quality red-black fruit midpalate; long, dark, very spicy finish. Fine, deft oak — creamy-nut/nutmeg sitting inside, structuring the fruit

Niepoort, D.O.C. Douro

2007 Niepoort ‘Redoma’ Douro Controlled rusticity, using traditional lagares with water jacketing for fermentation temperature control. Intense, complex black-red fruit with tobacco, spice, earthy minerals. Aged 20 months in new French. Batuta below is a 100 y.o. vine selection of this.

2006 Niepoort ‘Projectos’ Pinot Noir NIEPOORT JOINT VENTURES 2005 ‘omleT’ Douro new wine Telmo Rodriguez joined Dirk Niepoort in ‘05 and ’07 to add a Spaniard’s tweak to common Douro process. Dirk’s crew weren’t thrilled at Telmo’s direction to individual berry select and hand de-stem, but the result is fabulously fine, plush and detailed, more in the red berry spectrum than the more common deep blue-blacks. 2007 DODA Douro-Dão blend ‘Vinha da Mesa’ Powerful, rich Do(uro) fruit from Niepoort joins with Alvaro Castro’s fresh elegant Da(o) material. The result? A lovely, raspberry perfumed wine with a rich, fresh palate.

15

Portuguese Red Wines D.O.C. Douro

Quinta do Vale Meão, D.O.C. Douro

Quinta do Vale Meão

RRP

QTY

One of the most important Douro vineyards historically, Meão exists in its current form since 1999. A star property, value bordering on the ridiculous.

2007 ‘Meandro’ Douro

$49

6

2007 Meão ‘Meandro’ Douro 2007 Meão ‘Meandro’ Douro 1.5L magnum Touriga Nacional/Tinto Roriz/Touriga Franca/Tintas Barroca/Amarela. Smoke, blueberry, raw tobacco, mace and meat; full, soft tannins cradle soft blue fruits, pepper and dried cranberry spice at back for interest.

2007 ‘Meandro’ Douro 1.5L

$110

6

2007 Meão Douro

$185

6

2007 Meão Douro 1.5L

$395

6

2007 Meão Douro 2007 Meão Douro 1.5L magnum Tourigas Nacional and Franca/Tinta Roriz/Tinta Barroca. A modern take on the fruit which created Barca Velha. Perhaps Portugal’s finest red wine. Meandro descriptors, but at unreal levels of satin, spice and space.

Pintas, D.O.C. Douro

Pintas

RRP

QTY

2007 Pintas ‘Character’ Douro Tinto There’s no fat, no flab, just a jolt of smokey-sooty and tangy purply fruits, trimmed with meat and spice. Oak contributes a little coffee ground and black bean but no sweety-toasty stuff. From 40 y.o. vines.

2007 ‘Character’ Douro Tinto

$100

6

2007 Douro Tinto

$185

6

Made by Aussie Dominic Morris who puts what he learns in Portugal to good use at his own winery, Pondalowie.

Quinta do Crasto

RRP

QTY

2007 Crasto Douro Based on Tinta Roriz, it has ashy red fruits, typical asphalty terroir aromatics and is terribly suave. The fruit texture is pippy with soft tannin, a lash of bitumen and spice with a nice perfume lift.

2007 Crasto Douro

$32

6

2007 Crasto Douro Reserva

$78

6

2007 Pintas Douro Tinto From 70 y.o. vines, full of impact, yet ultimately super-mild, long and quite possibly profound. Deep dark purple-to-black with briary meat, ashy terroir, violets. Finishing with panforte and tobacco-green spice.

Quinta do Crasto, D.O.C. Douro

2007 Crasto Douro Reserva

BAGA REDS, Vinho Regional Beiras

Luis Pato, Vinho Regional Beiras

Luis Pato

RRP

QTY

D.O.C. Dão

2008 Luis Pato Baga new vintage A ‘Beaujolais-like’ wine, with pronounced game and sourberry either side of cherry fruit. Light, fresh, pretty and savoury. Elegant round-finishing tannins and bright acidity (Baga can be notoriously tart/acidic).

2008 Baga Tinto

$32

6

2005 ‘Vinha Pan’ Baga

$100

6

2005 Luis Pato ‘Vinha Pan’ Baga Tinto

2005 ‘Vinha Barrosa’ Baga

$100

6

Quinta do Pellada

RRP

QTY

2008 Alvaro Castro Dão

$37

6

$130

6

2005 Luis Pato ‘Vinha Barrosa’ Baga Tinto Two single vineyard Bagas— ‘Pan’ from youthful 20 y.o. sand-planted vines is concentrated an with extra feminine zip. ‘Barrosa’ is off 80 y.o. clay-based vines and more Bordeaux-masculine. Both age wonderfully.

Quinta do Pellada, D.O.C. Dão Alvaro Castro’s two quintas: Pellada and Saes are the Dão’s quality-style leaders. Alvaro releases wines eponymously, using either of the two Quinta names. These two wines however, are blended from both Quintas. 2008 Alvaro Castro Dão Tinto Touriga Nacional/Alfrocheiro/Jaen (Mencia)/Tinta Roriz. Plum spice, black cherry, game and woodsmoke. Structured; savoury berry and black fruit; good acidity. Tobacco and cane characters (Touriga), red fruit (Alfrocheiro), sage-brush and dark, sweet spices. Quite firm and a good food wine.

2006 Alvaro Castro ‘Pape’

2006 Alvaro Castro ‘Pape’ Dão Tinto ‘Pape’ is the Dão’s great, graceful big sister but in this instance is Touriga Nacional and Baga. Very highly refined, it is a deep, saturated red-purple colour, with fine-ness its hallmark on both nose and palate.

16

Port Wines

‘The Douro Boys’, D.O.C. Porto Our focus at present is on ‘new wave’ Vintage Ports. Newness in respect of the Douro Boys’ attachment to the single quinta concept, but stylistically, too: these VPs drink exceptionally well as young wines. As a rule of thumb, they are great drinks until 5 years’ age. Then they need to cellar for 10+ years. Easy! They are extraordinarily good value.

Quinta do Vale Meão, D.O.C. Porto

Quinta do Vale Meão

RRP

QTY

2007 Meão Vintage Port 50% Touriga Nacional/40% Touriga Franca/10% Tinta Roriz. Explosive sweet licorice, herbs and blackcurrant pastille nose with sourberry thrills. Sweet, ripe palate opens to amazing fruit top’n’tailed by spice and chocolate. Great fleshy-velvety volume, and tannin-acid framing. Incredibly precise, profound and restrained.

2007 Vintage Port

$130

6

Quinta do Vale Doña Maria, D.O.C. Porto

Quinta do Vale Doña Maria

RRP

QTY

2005 Doña Maria Late-Bottled Vintage Port 375ml 2005 Doña Maria Late-Bottled Vintage Port With just under four years in cask, this unfiltered VP material shows gun-metal length, elegance and restrained power. Blue-note, sarsaparilla fruit has lovely tannin definition, becomes more interesting once open.

2005 Late-Bottled Vintage Port 375ml

$37

12

2005 Late-Bottled Vintage Port

$58

6

2005 Vintage Port

$130

6

Quinta do Vallado

RRP

QTY

10 Year Old Tawny Port

$75

6

20 Year Old Tawny Port

$150

6

2005 Doña Maria Vintage Port Crushed pomegranate, hung meat, dense, fresh black fruit absolutely wedded to its soil: minerally, with soft earthy acid; final impressions of black bean, cola, canned cherry. Lovely succulent fruit, very silky fruit tannin.

Quinta do Vallado, D.O.C. Porto Vallado 10 Year Old Tawny Port Super-elegant tawny. Nutty, not too sweet with great natural acid. Autumnal nuts, straw, field herbs; retains primary red fruit. Fresh, with honey/nut sweetness; quality spirit and lovely tannins give a clean, dry finish. Vallado 20 Year Old Tawny Port Deep, brandied nuts; ripe, exotic timber and roasted almond. Extraordinarily fine palate; wonderful interplay between aged spirit and oak. Clean drying grip of fruit tannin and barrel frames spice-honey-clove elegance in the back half; outrageously long finish.

Niepoort, D.O.C. Porto

Niepoort

RRP

QTY

Niepoort Dry White Port Malvasia, Viosinho and Gouveio are fermented as a white wine until the fermentation is stopped by the addition of pure grape brandy. Brazil and cashew nut, rancio and tea; served chilled it is the perfect Portuguese aperitif.

Dry White Port

$32

6

Ruby Port

$37

6

Niepoort Ruby Port We have little or no time for tawnies under 10 y.o.—instead, this young, ripping red berry fruit-earth-spice job is delicious (very flash pack, too). 2005 Niepoort Late-Bottled Vintage Port 375ml Unfiltered, with very good concentration and tons of spice. Will develop beautifully over several years.

2005 Late-Bottled Vintage Port 375ml

$32

24

2005 Vintage Port 375ml

$115

12

2007 Vintage Port 375ml

$115

12

2007 Vintage Port

$200

6

2005 Niepoort Vintage Port 375ml 2007 Niepoort Vintage Port 375ml new vintage 2007 Niepoort Vintage Port new vintage

1987 Vintage Port

$295

1

1987 Niepoort Vintage Port

1983 Vintage Port

$325

1

1983 Niepoort Vintage Port What joy—ready-to-drink A Grade VP. The 83’s right in the slot (albeit with another 20 years up its sleeve!).

1986 ‘Colheita’ Tawny Port

$150

1

1986 Niepoort ‘Colheita’ Tawny Port new wine

1952 ‘Garrafeira’

$1395

1

1952 Niepoort ‘Garrafeira’ new wine

17

Jerez Sherry Wines

Delgado Zuleta, D.O. Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Delgado Zuleta

DZ Manzanilla ‘La Goya’ 375ml screwcap, current bottling September 2010 We bottle and ship fresh every two months, to ensure this definitively crisp, refreshing young white wine is always in spanky form. Camomile and oyster-shell aromatics, Chablis-like mid-palate fruit, long and tangy.

RRP

QTY

DZ Manzanilla ‘La Goya’ 375ml

$18

24

Reserva Range

Sanchez Romate

RRP

QTY

Romate Fino ‘Marismeño’ Fine, great mouthfeel, clean snappy finish. Very dry and delicious with almond, briny green olive, chalk.

Fino ‘Marismeño’

$37

6

Romate Amontillado ‘N.P.U.’ Pretty and elegant - mahogany, hazelnut, roast almond in a dry, spicy palate with trace of green olive. Long+. In our judgement, a close to perfect Amontillado, achingly dry and spare.

Amontillado ‘N.P.U’

$45

6

Oloroso ‘Don Jose’

$45

6

Palo Cortado ‘Regente’

$58

6

Cream ‘Iberia’

$45

6

Moscatel ‘Ambrosia’

$78

6

Pedro Ximénez ‘Cardenal Cisneros’

$62

6

These wines bear the new V.O.R.S. appellation tag—Vinum Optimum Rarum Signatum, which colloquially means Very Old Rare Sherry. Classified as ‘over 30 years’ age, they are more likely to be based on material no less than 40 years of age. Each have been skilfully freshened and they really dance!

V.O.R.S. Range

RRP

QTY

Romate Amontillado ‘Old+Plus’ Splendid! Toasted nuts, olive, lots of aged character. But typically Romate in its weightless, clean ease.

Amontillado ‘Old+Plus’ 500ml

$145

6

Romate Pedro Ximénez ‘Old+Plus’ Fabulously aged Pedro Ximénez! Only its 16% alcohol belies the heady concentration of this wine. Layers of deep prune fruit, with mace and sweet spices. Essence, for sure - but almost ethereal in its dancey, lighthearted finish. Remarkably refined.

Pedro Ximénez ‘Old+Plus’ 500ml

$145

6

Sanchez Romate, D.O. Jerez Top quality, small producer with a distinctive ‘swishing’ effortless palate style ... kinda like a Mark Waugh cover drive, but with no lazy edges! Also produce arguably Spain’s finest brandy, and excellent vinegars.

Romate Oloroso ‘Don Jose’ Rich, woody-nutty walnuts and quince fruit. Soft, round middle given grip by oak. Delicate, languid, spicy to finish. Very good example of the dry-but-glyceric richness of Oloroso. Romate Palo Cortado ‘Regente’ Palo Cortado is the weirdest of sherry classifications: a mixture of Oloroso aromatics and the lean drive of Amontillado, formed when Fino barrels fail to conform to style. A great sherry to serve with meats. Romate Cream ‘Iberia’ Oloroso plumped with 15% PX. Walnuts meet prune juice - very good balanced sweetness. Really excellent wine to serve cool with mixed cheese plates. Romate Moscatel ‘Ambrosia’ Very old, but nervy material, thanks to Moscatel’s lovely fresh natural acidity. Rich and heady, with dried fruits and fresh motor oil. Balanced, silky back palate, drying finish. Romate Pedro Ximénez ‘Cardenal Cisneros’ Raisiny, prune juice, chocolate dates—rich, sweet, viscous, spice and through-line, gentle grip to off dry finish.

‘Old+Plus’ V.O.R.S. Range

18

LONDON DRY GIN

Brandy de Jerez

Aguardiente Spanish ‘Grappa’

Thames Distillers

Thames Distillers

RRP

QTY

‘Fifty Pounds’ London Dry Gin This super-stylish London-made dry gin comes to us via Sanchez Romate. With no edges save for licks of botanical light and shade, it lands softly and at mid-weight in the mid-palate—a pile of smooth G+T deliciousness fizzing gently outwards. It really is effortless in affording pleasure.

‘Fifty Pounds’ London Dry Gin

$90

3

Sanchez Romate

Sanchez Romate

RRP

QTY

Cardenal Mendoza ‘Solera Gran Reserva’ Brandy Romate make one of the most famed brandies in Spain. It’s a ripe, sweet-spiced style. Lashings of xmas pudding (from maturation in old PX barrels). Good length and finish from such a generous style.

Cardenal Mendoza ‘Solera Gran Reserva’

$145

1

Castro Martin

Castro Martin

RRP

QTY

Casal Caeiro Aguardientes: ‘Blanca’ or ‘Hierbas’ Made by Castro Martin from the must of Albariño, Aguardiente literally means ‘strong water’ (Grappa-style). Blanca is a pure spirit distillate, much like Grappa. Hierbas is similar but with a lush golden herb infusion.

Casal Caeiro Aguardientes: ‘Blanca’ or ‘Hierbas’

$85

1

Pacharan Basque Anise Licor

Baines

Baines

RRP

QTY

‘Etiqueta Oro’ Pacharan

$115

1

Beer

Rosita Cerveza Artesanal de Tarragona Rosita badged beer glasses are now available. Please ask!

Rosita

RRP

QTY

Rosita Cerveza Artesanal de Tarragona (yellow label) Re-fermented in bottle, this ‘pale ale’ style hand made beer is from a tiny producer south of Barcelona. Not a sweet-fruity style, it’s generous on entry but gets crisper and more savoury in the back half.

Rosita 375ml

$6

24

‘d’Ivori’ 375ml

$6

24

Dauro Oil

RRP

QTY

‘L’Emporda’ Extra Virgin 500ml

$40

6

Sanchez Romate

RRP

QTY

‘White Label’ Vinagre de Jerez 750ml

$15

6

Reserva Vinagre de Jerez 375ml

$15

12

Reserva Familiar Vinagre de Jerez 250ml

$38

12

Reserva PX Vinagre de Jerez 500ml

$60

6

Baines ‘Etiqueta Oro’ Pacharan Navarra’s digestif tonic, Pacharan (Patxaran is the Basque spelling) is a maceration of anise and sloe berries, with a hint of coffee and chicory. Straight, on ice or mixed over ice with a bit of fruit and soft drink. Lovely.

Rosita ‘d’Ivori’ (white label) A new ‘sister’ for Rosita. Slightly paler than Rosita with cloudiness from bottle ferment. Lovely spice-malt notes on the nose with hints of apricot. Refreshingly savoury on palate with coriander root, orange spice and clove.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Sherry Vinegar D.O. JEREZ

Dauro Olive Oil Dauro ‘L’Emporda’ Extra Virgin, Girona This ultra-premium oil, produced by the deluxe Bodegas Roda, has won best-in-Europe gongs at Vernona the past 3 years. Based on Arbequinas, blended with Hojiblanca and Koroneiki. Subtle, intense, complex with lingering bitter almond tang. Smells of toasted bread, orange blossom, garden vegetable and pistachio.

Sanchez Romate Solera, Reserva and Familiar are based on Oloroso sherry, aged as vinegar for 2, 6+ and 10+ years, respectively. Wonderful, soft, deep fruit-spice characters make these as delicious as they are vinegary. Romate ‘White Label Solera’ Vinagre de Jerez 750ml (7° acidity) 100% Palomino. Aged for at least one year; characteristic winey background notes, smooth palate, pleasant, acetic flavours and hints of Oloroso sherry. Romate Reserva Vinagre de Jerez 375ml (8° acidity) Romate Reserva Familiar Vinagre de Jerez 250ml (10° acidity) Romate Reserva PX Vinagre de Jerez 500ml (9° acidity) 85% Palomino/15% Pedro Ximénez. Aged for at least three years. Reminiscent of aged Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso; smooth, gratifying flavours and acidity with sweet hints of oak and Sherry highlights.

19

MAP OF SPANISH & PORTUGUESE WINE REGIONS Key Spanish D.O.s 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

Rias Baixas Ribeiro Valdeorras Bierzo Cigales Toro Rueda Ribera del Duero La Rioja Navarra Montsant Priorat Alella Penedes (Cava Vinos Espumosos) Mallorca Alicante Yecla Valdepenas Malaga Jerez

1. 2.

4.

9.

3.

10.

5.

21. 6.

22.

12.

8.

7.

23.

11.

14.

13. BARCELONA

MADRID

15.

LISBON

18.

17.

16.

16.

Key Portuguese D.O.C.s 21. 22. 23.

Vinho Verde Porto & Douro Dão

19. 20.

20