The one and Many Faces of Burgundy

The one and Many Faces of Burgundy Contents p.4 Divine Burgundy p.16 Burgundy by water p.6 Burgundy Today p.18 Burgundy by bike p.8 Multiple Bu...
Author: Albert Rich
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The one and Many Faces of


Contents p.4 Divine Burgundy

p.16 Burgundy by water

p.6 Burgundy Today

p.18 Burgundy by bike

p.8 Multiple Burgundy

p.20 Burgundy for everyone

p.10 Burgundy for foodies

p.22 City life

p.12 Burgundy’s wine list

p.24 A Night to Remember

p.14 Burgundy countryside

p.26 Useful information

Welcome! Their names are Eva, Joon, Cécile, Arnaud, and they come from the USA, Germany, the Netherlands and Paris… They have all chosen to visit Burgundy for a weekend, a short break or longer. They are fond of wine, town atmosphere, old buildings or contemporary art. They are keen to meditate in a spiritual atmosphere; to go on a cycling tour of Burgundy, to share a good bottle of wine with friends… What do they have in common? They have all chosen to stay in a region of exceptional beauty situated in the heart of Europe. Come and share their adventures before setting out in turn on an adventure of your own. Take your pick from the extraordinary array of activities offered by the region. Like so many before you, you too will choose Burgundy.


“I dreamt of discovering spiritual Burgundy: Vézelay, Fontenay, Taizé, ….” Eva

Burgundy 10 am. Rising up in front of Eva, at the top of the “Eternal Hill”, the basilica of Vézelay attracts her like a lover. This young 34-year-old native of Munich had long dreamt of discovering this gem of Romanesque architecture, its capitals, tympaniums and matchless arches. After her visit, she intends to have lunch in one of the region’s restaurants of repute nestling at the foot the “eternal hill” of Vézelay, before travelling on to Chablis for a wine-tasting session or explore the mysterious and endless landscape of the Morvan stretched out in front of her.

The land of Burgundy gave birth to the two great monastic movements that were to leave an imperishable mark on the religious

At Nevers, you can contemplate the embalmed body of Bernadette

history of Europe: the Benedictine and the Cistercian Orders.

of Lourdes, laid to rest in a glass shrine, while young Christians from

Fontenay Abbey, the Basilica of St Mary Magdalene in Vézelay

every part of Europe come together at Taizé and Paray-le-Monial each

and the Abbey Church of La Charité-sur-Loire have all obtained the

year. The treasures of religious history are displayed at the Sacred Art

UNESCO World Heritage accolade. The unforgettable circuit includes

Museums of Paray-le-Monial and Dijon.

the glory of Cluny, Cîteaux Abbey and those pretty Romanesque Europe’s largest Buddhist community is to be found at La

churches spread throughout the countryside like the beads of a rosary. In Dijon, the curious-minded will set out in search of the

Boulaye: the Temple of the Thousand Buddhas. As a way stage on

“100 spires” which so amazed François Premier, king of France,

the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella, Burgundy has long been

the gargoyles of Notre-Dame and the crypt of Saint-Bénigne.

an example of ecumenism, open-mindedness and tolerance. 5


“Burgundy and contemporary art go together naturally ” Franck

Today 11 am. Lydie and Franck, fine arts students from Paris, were keen to discover Burgundy from a different angle. Their quest for contemporary artists takes them this morning to a Dijon art gallery. Alongside fashionable restaurants and top festivals, they have pencilled in some of the finest exhibitions in France.

For Burgundy, heritage protection bequeathed down the centuries and the encouragement of contemporary creation is not so much a contradiction as a challenge. The Consortium team in Dijon is recognised throughout Europe for its ability to unearth new They will meet up with emerging talents at such places

talents; it has exhibited the works of César and Buren in its art centre situated in the heart of town and a former factory in the suburbs.

as Tanlay, Pougues-les-Eaux, the Nicéphore-Niepce Museum

The nearby Regional Contemporary Art Collection is one of the most

of Chalon-sur-Saône and the Zervos Legacy at Vézelay.

impressive in Europe. Our friends Lydie and Franck will also take

At Noyers-sur-Serein, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain or Besanceuil,

in the contemporary works of art on display at the Dijon University

they will chance upon a host of surprising and unexpected galleries

campus as well as the famous Granville donation at the Dijon Fine

and exhibition areas. And they will make sure not to miss such

Arts Museum, and some of the many fine art galleries to be found

festivals as Why Note, Art Danse or the annual festival of film music

in town; And who knows? They might bump into the Dijon-based

at Auxerre. They will head back to Paris fully convinced

Chinese artist Yan-Peï Ming as he leaves his studio…

that contemporary creation is alive and well in Burgundy. 7


“I dreamt of sampling a glass of white wine in the heart of the Burgundy vineyards.” Elisabeth

Burgundy Midday. Elisabeth and Kilian, a British couple in their ’fifties, are enjoying a glass of white wine and chatting with the English-speaking winegrower who has invited them to his cellar. For these winelovers, Burgundy has always been almost a myth. So this afternoon, after a walk through the vineyards and stopping off at the terrace of a café in a wine village, they are going to learn the basics of wine-tasting in Beaune. Tomorrow they intend to broaden their cultural knowledge by visiting a few remarkable towns.

noir and chardonnay grape varieties, which flourish here as nowhere

In every part of the world, the name of Burgundy is synonymous with “wines of exception”. From Beaune to Chablis and

else. And let’s not forget the Crémant de Bourgogne, the sparkling

from Mâcon to Nuits-Saint-Georges, the vineyards of Burgundy are

wine which is so much at home here, especially in the Châtillon area.

at once an extraordinarily rich, complex, discreet and… overpowering In Burgundy, winegrowers and wine producers attach the

experience! There is nothing more rewarding than getting to know these localities or terroirs and the people who work in them. With 102

greatest importance to authenticity and excellence. Here, wine-tasting

appellations and 33 grands crus spread over a little area blessed

is a unique and cherished experience. Will you prove equal to the

by the gods and producing barely 0.5% of the world’s wine output,

task of taming these extraordinary wines? Will you be able to identify

Burgundy is as unpretentious as it is famous. It is also incredibly

the aromas of the undergrowth, of hazelnut or red fruit, appreciate

diverse. From one vineyard to another, one vintage to another, one

the colour or robe of the wine to the full? Well, there’s only one way

climat to another, the wines of Burgundy are so different from each

to find out. You must cross the threshold, like Elisabeth and Kilian,

other! The reds, whites and rosés bring out all the qualities of the pinot

of one of our world-renowned vineyards! 9

Alcohol abuse is dangerous to your health. Please consume moderately.


“In Burgundy, gastronomy is a question of tradition, good products, innovation and creativity.” Julien

for foodies It is one o’clock in the afternoon. The maître d’hôtel approaches your table: boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, sandre (pikeperch) au vin blanc and pôchouse (fish stew) are on the menu. Our four friends from Lyon and Strasbourg have chosen a few Burgundian favourites for their gastronomic lunch in a traditional inn on the banks of the Saône. This evening, they plan to dine in one of the region’s internationally renowned restaurants but have yet to decide between Saulieu, Chagny, Joigny and Vézelay. After such indulgence, tomorrow will be devoted to a cycling tour of Burgundy!

Take your pick: little local markets or the great covered market in Dijon. Specialised laboratories where researchers work on questions of nutrition and health; a private kitchen where a chef

As our friends know full well, we take our food seriously here in Burgundy and “good eating” is considered an art form. Indeed any

reveals the tricks of his trade; a restaurant in the matchless setting

holiday in Burgundy is first of all an affair of flavour and taste.

of a château or a former abbey; truffle hunting near Auxerre or picking

Here’s a little riddle for you: what do Bresse chicken, Dijon mustard,

little red fruit in the uplands above Nuits-Saint-Georges. There are

oeufs en meurette (eggs in red wine sauce), Charolais beef

so many different ways of exploring Burgundy’s gastronomic heritage

and Epoisses cheese have in common? They are all gastronomic

and enjoying a cuisine in turn traditional, innovative and creative.

specialities of Burgundy.

One thing is for certain – here all tastes are catered for! 11


“In Burgundy, the landscapes, the atmosphere and the paths are as varied as the wines. What an abundance!” Kilian

wine list After lunch, our English friends Elisabeth and Kilian, disappear into the vineyards… or perhaps breathe in the heady scent of grapes as they pass through each village at harvest time, or plunge into the damp, welcoming coolness of a cellar and savour a glass of chardonnay accompanied by a cheese puff pastry. These and many other unforgettable moments will be theirs in the course of their wine itinerary. Whether you are travelling on foot, on bike or by car, the journey through Burgundy is in itself a feast for the eyes and an enticing prelude to a visit to the wine cellar!

Beginners will feel just as much at home as the confirmed wine

The landscapes of the winegrowing areas are as varied as the wines to which they give birth. Among the many “wine roads” running

connoisseur, thanks to the special reception areas set up in such

through Burgundy: the Route des grands crus – the region’s own

places as Beaune, Romanèche-Thorins and Nuits-Saint-Georges,

Champs-Elysées stretching 80 kilometres from Dijon to Nolay with

where the very latest technologies will help you to understand the

such highlights as the Clos de Vougeot, Beaune and many an

intricacies of the world of wine. But most and best of all, winegrowers

authentic little wine village along the way; the Route des grands vins

in every village will be happy to open wide the doors to their cellars.

de la Côte chalonnaise; the Route des vins du Mâconnais-Beaujolais;

Here you will be introduced to the art of wine-tasting and share the

the Route des vignobles de l’Yonne and the Route des coteaux

secrets of a very ancient culture. For an encounter with the wines of

Pouilly-Sancerre. Further north, around Châtillon-sur-Seine, you enter

Burgundy is first and foremost an encounter with the men and women

the kingdom of the famous Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wine.

who toil ceaselessly to produce these great wines for your pleasure. 13

Alcohol abuse is dangerous to your health. Please consume moderately.


“With its forests, lakes, rivers and footpaths, our stay in the Morvan has been unforgettable.” Joon et Anika

countryside It is 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Equipped with walking boots and backpack, Joon and Anika have given themselves the day to walk round the Haut-Folin peak (the highest point in Burgundy). It is part of a six-day holiday in the heart of the Morvan. Pitching their tent on the banks of the Lac de Chamboux, they are looking forward to a week in which to unwind, breathe in the pure air of forests, mountains, lakes and rivers. Not forgetting charm and gastronomy!

Burgundy is a veritable paradise for hikers, cyclists, fishing and inland waterway enthusiasts. Joon and Anika have opted for

voies vertes and voies bleues linking up and forming part of the main

the Morvan Regional Nature Park, a protected granite massif where

European cycling circuits. And a word for waterway fans: 1200 km

they are free to pursue hiking, cycling, horse riding and rafting to their

of navigable waterways – canals and rivers – await your discovery!

heart’s content, but they could just as well have sought peace And those of you dreaming of warm baths, hot springs

and quiet in the Châtillonnais (with its characteristic washhouses of yesteryear), the Puisaye (the country of the writer Colette and ochre

and massages can head for the health resorts of Bourbon-Lancy

stone houses) or the Cluny area (forever associated with the poet

and Saint-Honoré-les-Bains, or get away from it all in any number

Lamartine). A word for cyclists: the region is liberally endowed with

of luxurious hotels and vineyard establishments. 15


“Quite honestly, Burgundy is a paradise for inland water enthusiasts!” Harry

by water It is three o’clock in the afternoon. Kendra and Harry are sunbathing on the deck of their little rented houseboat. All of a sudden, as the boat emerges from the shade of a little wood, our friends see the château of Châteauneuf-en-Auxois perched on a rocky spur high above them. For this American couple, a boat cruise represents the best and most peaceful way of discovering Burgundy, and indeed they will find that one memorable moment follows another as they drift along the Burgundy Canal.

With 1200 km of navigable waters, Burgundy is a haven for The Canal Centre (Halle du Toueur), designed by the architect

inland waterway tourists. Their “headquarters”: Saint-Jean-de-Losne, France’s largest inland marina with room for 300 boats. Waterway

Shigeru Ban, and the canal tunnel await your visit at Cap Canal,

halts have been established at Tonnerre, Digoin, Verdun-sur-le-Doubs

Pouilly-en-Auxois. And what could be more enjoyable than tying up

and all along the Nivernais Canal. Here, tourists can make fast

in the very heart of Dijon or Chalon-sur-Saône? Or perhaps rafting

and set off to explore the sights, enjoy a restaurant or explore a town.

down the Chalaux river or enjoying a pedalo outing on one

The region has some 30 bases and almost 500 boats for hire

of the great lakes of the Morvan? Wherever you go, you are never

with room for 2 to 12 persons. You can also relax in the comfort

far from the water. Treat yourself to a relaxed, offbeat way

of hotel barges or cruise boats.

of discovering Burgundy! 17


“We’ve cycled all over Europe and very few regions have such diversity to offer.” Marie

by bike At the same time on the same day, while Joon and Anika set out to conquer the Haut-Folin, their French friends Olivier and Marie prefer to explore the countryside by bike. Today, they are cycling from Chalon-sur-Saône to Cluny along the very first voie verte or Green Way created in France.

A surprise awaits you at almost every mile along the way: a château,

There are eight hundred kilometres of marked itineraries reserved for cyclists in Burgundy. This ecological, sporting and fun

a chapel, a country inn, the guarantee of a close-up view of a wild

way to explore the varied landscapes of the region at one’s own pace

animal, and of course any number of gîtes and places to break

is now represented by a network called “Le tour de Bourgogne

your journey.

à vélo®” (Burgundy by Bike). The network will take you through the Visitors to Dijon will be able to explore the town’s historical

vineyards of the Côte-d’Or and Saône-et-Loire departments, from Dijon to Saint-Gengoux-le-National by way of Nuits-Saint-Georges,

centre by bike thanks to the new self-service rental system.

Beaune, Santenay, Givry and Buxy. Or alongside the Saône, from

And if you venture further afield, you can always travel back to town

Mâcon to Saint-Jean-de-Losne by way of Chalon-sur-Saône and

by train or bus with your bike safely on board. Like other great

Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. Or again it will take the old towpaths to follow

European regions, Burgundy has wholeheartedly adopted sustainable

the Burgundy Canal, the Canal du Centre or the Nivernais Canal.

development – tourism on a bicycle! 19


“The children are on holiday too! We really feel we’re in a region open to all.” Laurence

for everyone 4 pm. Elléa was soon fast asleep in the car hugging the teddy bear brought back as a souvenir of Touroparc in her arms. Touroparc at Romanèche-Thorins, is a wildlife park specially chosen by her parents, Laurence and Patrice. In all parts of Burgundy, this little family will find places ideal for children and adults alike. Warm and welcoming sites in a warm and welcoming region!

An environment-friendly “sun festival” at the Lac des Settons, an array of traditional and natural products, from Morvan honey to the

be sustainable. Under the aegis of the Regional Union of Tourist

famous Flavigny aniseed balls. Sustainable tourism means protecting

Associations, “tourism for everyone” has become the watchword,

the planet. Burgundy’s respect for the environment is apparent at

with farms, châteaux and holiday centres welcoming children with

every turning: footpaths specially adapted for the disabled in the

open arms. Surprises include a castle being built in the middle

Auxois… Amusement parks built on a human scale for families at

of the Puisaye close to a forest where stags gambol at will, museums

Arnay-sous-Vitteaux, Le Creusot... Holiday centres in the Morvan...

open free of charge throughout the year in Dijon, treetop adventures

In Burgundy, our philosophy is to create a tourist industry which

or swimming in the wilds. Families are welcome, the choice is wide

is at once open, generous and tolerant, where all are welcome and

and the many attractions of Burgundy are accessible to all

no-one is excluded. For a tourism where some are excluded cannot

and sundry. Welcome to Burgundy to all of you! 21


“A holiday isn’t a holiday without shopping, entertainment and fashionable restaurants.” Sonia and Cécile

Life 6 pm. Sonia and Cécile are feeling worn out. Scarcely surprising when you have spent the afternoon sightseeing, shopping and strolling through the centre of Dijon! This evening, they plan to see a show at the Auditorium and then bring the day to a close with a drink at one of the town’s fashionable cafés.

Dijon, the regional capital, which has preserved intact one

Exploring a town means steeping oneself in a particular

of the largest protected areas in France; Beaune, capital of Burgundy

atmosphere, coming across surprising and unexpected boutiques,

wine; Chalon-sur-Saône, image and photography capital; Mâcon,

attractive terraces and bustling markets, or enjoying the festive

capital of Southern Burgundy; Le Creusot, industrial capital; Auxerre,

and relaxed ambience of a summer’s evening. It is also a cultural

capital of Northern Burgundy; Nevers, capital on the banks of the

experience. Who could resist a performance at the Dijon Opera

Loire. In all, Burgundy boasts no fewer than six Towns of Historical

House or the Arc National Culture Centre of Le Creusot? And who

and Artistic Interest: Autun, Auxerre, Chalon-sur-Saône, Dijon, Joigny

could turn down the chance to visit the Nicéphore Niepce Museum

and Nevers; exceptional monuments such as Sens Cathedral,

in Chalon-sur-Saône, the Septennat Museum at Château-Chinon

the Hospices de Beaune, the UNESCO World Heritage listed abbey

or one of the seven museums in Dijon? Not to mention the region’s

church of La Charité-sur-Loire, the basilica of Paray-le-Monial.

finest festivals: Baroque Music (Beaune), Street Arts

Each town has its distinctive personality but all have succeeded

(Chalon-sur-Saône), Blues (Le Creusot), Film Music (Auxerre),

in remaining on a “human scale”.

Adventure Film (Dijon), among many others. 23

A Night “We were looking for a romantic spot and we found it here in Burgundy, well away from the crowds.” Arnaud

to Remember 6.30 pm. Célia and Arnaud arrive at the charming hotel they have selected. A romantic room and a terrace with views over the undulating countryside. A little later on, they will admire the sunset. Our young married couple could also have chosen to stay in a converted Bed & Breakfast in an old mill, a treetop house...

A room in an authentic farmhouse? A luxury hotel complete with spa and all the trimmings? A floating gîte at Saint-Firmin (unique

at Puligny-Montrachet, in a horse-drawn caravan at Gimouille,

in France)? There are any number of accommodation possibilities

in a tree-top hut in the south of the Saône-et-Loire department,

in Burgundy. The options range from eminently affordable lakeside

or in a luxuriously appointed room in the former abbey

campsites in the Morvan to luxury four-star establishments in Dijon,

of La Bussière-sur-Ouche?

Saulieu, Chagny or Vézelay. There is something for all budgets Night falls. Tomorrow will bring another day of discovery and

in a region renowned for its hospitality and its inimitable art de vivre. Looking for something offbeat? How about a night in a yurt (a circular,

pleasure in Burgundy. Before long it will be time to start the journey

domed, portable tent) at Sainte-Marie-sur-Ouche, in a Scandinavian

home by car, by TGV or by plane. But of one thing you may be sure:

chalet at Saint-Agnan, in a “design” bedroom amidst the vineyards

Eva, Joon, Cécile, Arnaud and the others will be back again soon! 25

Useful information Bourgogne Tourisme

Comité Départemental du Tourisme de Saône-et-Loire

Comité Régional du Tourisme de Bourgogne

389, avenue Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny - F 71000 MÂCON

BP 20623 - F 21006 DIJON cedex

tél. +33 (0)3 85 21 02 20 - fax +33 (0)3 85 38 94 36

tél. +33 (0)3 80 28 02 80 - fax +33 (0)3 80 28 03 00

[email protected]

[email protected] - Yonne Tourisme Côte-d’Or Tourisme

Agence de Développement Touristique de l’Yonne

Agence de Développement Touristique de la Côte-d’Or

1-2, quai de la République - F 89000 AUXERRE

BP 1601 - F 21035 DIJON cedex

tél. +33 (0)3 86 72 92 00 - fax +33(0)3 86 72 92 09

tél. +33 (0)3 80 63 69 49 - fax +33 (0)3 80 49 90 97

[email protected] -

[email protected]

Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan Office de Tourisme de la Maison du Parc

Agence de Développement Touristique de la Nièvre

Espace Saint-Brisson - F 58230 SAINT-BRISSON

2, avenue Saint-Just - BP 10318 - F 58003 NEVERS cedex

tél. fax +33 (0)3 86 78 79 57

tél. +33 (0)3 86 36 39 80 - fax +33 (0)3 86 36 36 63

[email protected]

[email protected] - -

Publisher: Bourgogne Tourisme - Editorial Director: Didier MARTIN - Creation/Design: tempsRéel and Cap Horn (Dijon, 21) - Editorial Office: Patrice BOUILLOT - Photographic Credits: Alain DOIRE (Bourgogne Tourisme – Dijon, 21) Printed by DESMET-LAIRE SA (Mont-de-l’Enclus, Belgique) - ISSN: pending – October 2008 - Maps produced by ACTUAL (St-Julien-les-Villas, 10) – Tél. + 33 (0)3 25 71 20 20 – - Reproduction forbidden. Authorisation No. 51-21/JMP/03-08, 52-21/JMP/03-08, 53-21/JMP/03-08 and 54-21/JMP/03-08

Getting to Burgundy by car

by rail

Burgundy is connected with French and European cities by a dense motorway network.

International connections There are TGV connections to Burgundy from: Geneva (Mâcon-Loché, 1hr 50 min), Lausanne (Dijon, 2 hrs), Zurich (Dijon, 4 hrs 15 min), London via Lille (Dijon, 5 hrs 30 min) and Brussels via Lille (Dijon, 4hrs).

by air Dijon-Bourgogne Airport 6 km South-East of Dijon. Information: BP 25 – F-21601 LONGVIC Cedex tél. +33 (0)3 80 67 67 67 – fax +33 (0)3 80 63 02 99 [email protected] – Nearest airports Paris Charles de Gaulle (direct TGV connection between Dijon and Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport), Paris Orly, Lyon Saint-Exupéry, Bâle-Mulhouse and Genève Cointrin.

National connections There are TGV connections to Burgundy from the following major towns: - Paris (Gare de Lyon): Dijon (1 hr 40 min), Beaune (2 hrs 10 min), Chalon-sur-Saône (2 hrs 30 min), Le Creusot-Montceau-Montchanin (1 hr 30 min), Mâcon-Loché (1 hr 40 min) - Paris Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport: Dijon (1 hr 55 min) - Lyon (La Part-Dieu): Le Creusot-Montceau-Montchanin (50 min), Dijon (1 hr 45 min) - Lille: Dijon (2 hr 50 min) - Marseille and Nice: Dijon (5 hrs 40 min and 6 hrs) serving Mâcon (2 hrs 10 min) and Chalon-sur-Saône (2 hrs 50 min) Information: Intraregional connections The TER (Regional Express Transport) network provides rail transport inside Burgundy and links up with neighbouring regions. Information: