The art of mole trapping

There is an incredible amount ‘lore’ around mole catching, no doubt generated due to the particular vein-bursting brand of frustration caused by this small and elusive mammal. Everybody who has ever attempted to catch a mole seems to have an opinion. Here, we give you the low-down on tried, tested and proven techniques that have been developed by our Resident Master Mole Catcher.

The art of catching moles has been around for centuries, indeed there is evidence of mole catching as far back as Roman times when they used to bury earthenware pots, half filled with water, under a mole run and cover it with a trap door.

our single-page Advice Sheets (Mole Catching Guide, Mole Catching Myths, Mole Fact Sheet, and the Mole Catching Equipment Guide). These will give you the basics to get started without getting too technical or detailed.

In modern times, there has been an explosion of control methods, some effective, and some not so effective. Just some of the options are:

If you do not yet have a trap, or are undecided whether you want to buy a trap or some other form of control, you should first read our Mole Control Methods booklet. Once you have read and understood the contents of this booklet, you should be in a position to tackle your mole problem once and for all, in an efficient and effective way.

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Booby Traps Exclusion using underground fences Poisons Live Capture Traps Killing traps

However, despite these clever and innovative inventions, the overall situation remains largely unchanged. Removing moles is still a campaign, fought between land owners, gardeners, farmers, grounds keepers and the mole. In all cases, the best weapon is always a mechanical trap - usually a killing trap. The aim of this booklet is to introduce some of the more advanced and subtle techniques that have been developed over the years by Professional Mole Catchers. These should take some of the guesswork out of your efforts and also hopefully reduce the amount of time required to rid yourself of these little beasts. If you are new to mole catching, You should start by reading a few of

Unlike most companies and training providers, at Beagle we believe that all advice should be free. We want you to be successful, and we don’t think you should have to pay for advice. Please be sure to let us know if you have any questions or comments. Happy reading and good luck!

Beagle Garden Products, 327 Histon Road, Cambridge CB4 3NF, United Kingdom Tel: 01223 927 212 Email: [email protected] www.beagleproducts.com © Beagle 2012

The art of mole trapping

Tools and equipment

Why use a trap?

It is possible to catch moles with nothing but a spade and lots of patience. However, most of us simply don’t have the time to stand like a statue waiting to smack the critter on the head, so fortunately there are a range of products out there to help.

If you would like to go in to more detail, and learn the ins and outs of all the various mole control methods and devices available, you should see our detailed booklet entitled Mole removal: the options. Essentially the choices boil down to: -

MOLE TRAPS - Depending on the area you are trapping, you may need lots of these. For a small to medium-sized garden two will probably do, but for much larger areas you might need as many as 10-15 traps. A PROBE - To find the mole run. This should be long enough that you don’t need to bend down to probe the ground, and it should also have a slightly bulbous tip; this will make if obvious when you break through into a run since it will ‘bump’ into the top of the run as you pull the probe out. A SPADE - To uncover the mole run. Ideally this will be the same width as your trap, so that you only excavate a hole that is the size of the trap. If the hole is too big, you will have to re-build the sides of the hole so that it fits the trap.

A KNIFE/SECATEURS - Sometimes, when you uncover a run, there may be roots in it. These should be cleared to make way for the trap. Make sure to cut them rather than pulling them out otherwise you will cave in the run.

A TROWEL - To clear out the bottom of the run. You should make sure that no soil has fallen down into the tunnel as this may either block the trap, or put the mole off. It will be easier if the trowel is of a narrow design so you can fit it down inside the run.

A BAG - To carry everything in. All in all, there is quite a lot of kit, so you’ll want a bag or a bucket to carry it all around the garden/field.

A TAMPER - To press down the bottom of the run and make sure it is smooth. This could be done with the trowel or the handle of your spade if the size is right. A KNEEL PAD - When you are down setting the trap, you will often be kneeling on wet and/or muddy ground. There may also be knobbly or sharp stones, so for comfort and to protect your clothing, you should consider a kneel pad or knee protectors.

TRAP MARKERS - Most commonly bought traps tend to be set below ground level, so it is a good idea to mark where you’ve put them. The Beagle EasySet Trap tends to sit on or very close to the surface, and is generally easily visible. GLOVES - Purely for comfort and to keep your hands clean. They are also a good idea if you are going to pick up a dead mole, since they may carry diseases. Make sure you get a good thick pair, as they will give you the best protection against sharp stones or anything hidden in the soil. A thick pair will also help protect you against the sharp teeth of an angry mole if you are using a live capture trap.

Killing Traps Live Capture Traps Poisons Booby Traps Repellents Environment Modification Professional Services

Killing Traps are widely considered to be by far the best method. Although many types of trap are poor and will not work, if you choose the right one they can be an easy to use and efficient mole control method. Good traps such as the EasySet, Duffus, or Talpex Trap will give a humane kill, and will not cause unnecessary suffering. They are also very unlikely to harm non-target species, and will not contaminate the local food chain. Live Capture Traps are probably the second best option. Most are simple tubes with one-way flaps at each end. Since the mole will have to climb inside, they are not quite so reliable as a good killing trap so may not be the preferred option. The benefit, of course, is that the mole is not killed. Note: you MUST check live traps every 12 hours. If a mole is left confined in the small space for extended periods he will die of stress - a cruel end. You will also need to find somewhere to release him. Poisons are generally ineffective since it is very difficult to get the mole to ingest them. Moles only feed on live prey, so will generally not eat poisoned worms or other contaminated ‘snacks’ that you might leave them. Additionally, most effective poisons have now been banned by the EU or require a specialist licence to buy or use. Booby Traps are sharp things placed in the mole run. This is pointless as the mole will simply tunnel around the offending obstacle.

Repellents are often cited to work. Favourites are sonar stakes, mole smokes, castor oil sprays and special odorous plants. Unfortunately, most evidence shows that these methods work either only sporadically or not at all. The mole may be deterred for a short period, but will usually return; often they will simply dig a new set of tunnels around a contaminated area – resulting in even more mole hill damage. Environment Modification covers things like underground fences. A response of this scale is expensive and time consuming to implement. It will also do nothing if a mole manages to get around it! The Professional Services of a mole catcher or pest controller are always an option. Nearly all will use a mechanical killing trap and will charge either per visit or per mole. You should be aware that a neighbouring mole will usually move into a vacated burrow, so expect to have the mole catcher back a few times!

The art of mole trapping

The mole If you would like improve your chances, and graduate from the basic methodology of ‘stick a trap down and wait’, then we need to think more carefully. The way in which you approach catching your mole will depend upon a number of factors and also require an understanding of how moles live and the structure of their underground burrows.

They prefer a pH of 7 (neutral), a cool climate around 8 -12 degrees Celsius (46 – 54 degrees Fahrenheit), and soft, moist, but not waterlogged, soil. Fortunately for the worm, each of these factors varies through the soil column, so they will migrate to find the best conditions. This variation in depth is the reason why mole runs can often extend in depth up to 1.5m. At different times of the year, depending upon rainfall and temperatures, they will work at different depths.

Moles mate in the spring, toward the end of March, although this may vary by a couple of weeks either way depending upon the weather. At this time, the male (or boar) will leave his burrow and dig long tunnels out from his territory in hope of encountering the tunnel system of a neighbouring female. If he finds one, then they will mate and the male will return to his own burrow. This is often the cause of a single line of new mole hills across an area or field at this time of year.

Solitary creatures

The female (or sow) gestates for about 35 days, and gives birth to between 2 – 6 ‘pups’. They will remain with the mother for up to 40 days before they are kicked out to find their own territories.

Each mole lives alone in his burrow. He will vigorously defend his territory and fight off any invading neighbours. Having said this, burrows do often overlap, and some may share tunnels or inter-link.

Feeding The mole feeds primarily upon worms, but also on insects, grubs, and larvae. Worms are the moles favourite food, and the mole will usually concentrate its activity where ever the most worms are. The location of worms is dependent on a number of factors including: the pH, the temperature, and the moisture content of the soil.

Secondly, the dusk and dawn periods are the times of most rapid temperature change and when prey is migrating through the soil column; therefore they are more likely to intrude into the feeding tunnels.

Reproduction

Firstly, in this section we will look at how the mole lives, his patterns of activity, and the reasons behind his habits. In the next section we will then look at the structure of a burrow.

Moles will avoid encountering neighbours by monitoring scent trails left in the tunnels. Usually neighbouring moles will develop a daily pattern, operating in different sections of the tunnel at a particular time of the day.

creature with a high metabolism. It must feed regularly in order to maintain its energy levels, and it must also rest frequently as it must work hard to gather enough food / complete its excavations.

Activity cycles Throughout the day, the mole is active in 8 hour cycles, with approximately 4 hours sleeping followed by 4 hours of activity; either foraging, or digging. The timings of these cycles will vary depending on the time of year and location but they will roughly be timed so that the first active period ends just after dawn, a second is midday or early afternoon, and the third starts about the time of dusk. The reason for these cycles is two-fold. Firstly, the mole is a small

In mid to late June this may give rise to new digging sprees as they excavate their new homes or make repairs to a vacant existing tunnel system.

The art of mole trapping

The burrow The second thing we will need is an understanding of how moles live and the structure of their underground burrows.

In a mature ‘colony’, where moles have had time to settle in, a map of their territories may look something like that in the illustration below. Red is for Males and Yellow for Females.

Living arrangements Each mole lives alone in his burrow. He will vigorously defend his territory and fight off any invading neighbours. Burrows do often overlap in the 3 dimensional sense, and intertwine (as in the diagram below). Sometimes, neighbouring moles may also share short sections of tunnel.

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If a mole is removed, then the neighbouring moles will move in rapidly, often within 3-10 days; as shown below.

The structure -

A nest Food stores Hunting galleries – usually active Main tunnels – always active Spur tunnels – usually inactive Mole hills

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image to follow image to follow Moles will generally avoid encountering neighbours by monitoring pheromone trails in the tunnels. Usually neighbouring moles will develop a daily pattern, operating in different sections of the tunnel at a particular This is why it is important to pursue your campaign vigorously until all time of the day. signs of moles have been eliminated. Otherwise, you will be attempting to catch fewer moles in ever increasing territories; reducing you chances of capture. Depending upon the environment, moles will require different amounts of territory. If the soil is dry and sandy soil with little prey, they may cover up to 3000 square meters. In rich lush soil, with plenty of food, only 300 square meters may be needed.

Territory

The nest is where the mole sleeps. This will be an enlarged chamber, often at a junction of two or more tunnels; so that the mole has multiple escape routes. The nest will be lined with insulation foraged from above ground such as dried grass, leaves, or even crisp packets! The next is usually sited on higher ground, or somewhere that will remain dry, such as under a hedge, tree, fence, or shed. Food stores are used to store worms and may contain in up to 1000 worms! The number, size, and presence of food stores will depend upon the quantity and regularity of the supply of food. They are usually situated in cul-de-sacs off of main tunnels, or in hollows in tunnel walls. The hunting galleries are where the mole catches its food. They consist of wide ranging tunnel systems in areas where prey (worms / grubs / insect larvae) are plentiful. As the prey makes its daily migration through the soil column, based upon the temperature and humidity,

they will ‘drop’ into the tunnel. The mole will sense this vibration and come to snaffle the defenceless worm. These tunnels are not ideal for traps since the mole will be moving slowly and carefully feeling for prey. Main tunnels are the ‘motorways’ of the moles world. They provide often used routes between feeding grounds, food stores, and the nest. These are ideal tunnels in which to place a trap, since the mole will often come through and will usually be travelling at speed. Spur tunnels are exploratory excavations into new territory. If the mole is expanding his territory, looking for new feeding grounds, (usually when new mole hills start to appear) then he is likely to return here soon. A good place to set a trap. Mole hills are simply the spoils from excavation. The mole will dig a side tunnel to the surface, and then push soil up and out. When he has finished excavating, he will then fill in the side tunnel. For this reason there is no point digging out a mole hill in hopes of setting a successful trap.

The art of mole trapping

Studying the signs There are many things that we need to look at in order to make the most of the information available to us. In particular, it is worth studying: the mole hills themselves, the shape and surface of the ground, the soil type, and the features that make up the area. Each of these will give us clues.

Scientific research has found that the depth of a tunnel is related to the spacing of the mole hills. The further apart, the deeper the tunnel is likely to be. Also, tunnels at depth will produce larger hills. The exact spacing will of course depend upon the soil type, and can only be used as a guide. If you are having trouble locating surface runs, then it is worth probing in an area where the hills are smaller and closer together.

The ground When starting to probe for runs, before simply stabbing the ground, it pays to first have a look at the profile of the terrain. As the mole tunnels, if he is near the surface, the soil above will subside slightly. If this is the case, you may be able to spot where the tunnels lie if you can see shallow linear depressions. This can be a particularly good clue as to the location of a main tunnel, that has been there for a while, since in this case there may also be sufficient root damage to the grass that a ‘line of poor growth’ is evident.

Mole hills

Soil type

A careful study of the mole hill can give an experienced mole catcher many clues as to what is going on underground. You should try to the following questions:

Looking at the soil type will tell you how deep the mole runs are likely to be and also give an indication of how many moles might be occupying a given area.

- How fresh is the hill, when was it dug? - How deep is the corresponding tunnel likely to be? - Why was the mole digging?

A rich, dark, damp soil is ideal for worms and therefore moles. In these conditions, the moles burrow is likely to cover a relatively small area, and be fairly close to the surface. In drier soils, he may tunnel deeper looking for damper soil.

Depending on the state of the soil, and the weather, you can work out how fresh the mole hill is. Think about what the weather has been doing recently. A mole hill that has been rained on will clearly be older than one that has not. In dry or warm weather, older mole hills will have dried out more than fresh ones – make a cut into the centre of a hill with your spade to see how much of it has dried out. Also, older hills will generally be more compact than fresh ones since the excavation aerates the soil in the hill, making it quite light. As it sits there, it will settle under its own weight, becoming more compact and solid. The depth of the tunnel beneath a mole hill is related to the distance between mole hills and also to the size of the mole hill.

The size, type, and location of mole hills will also reveal why the mole was digging. If the hills are regular and large, then it is likely that new excavation is underway. Otherwise, if there are only occasional and small hills, then it is likely that he is simply repairing his tunnel. This may occur particularly after surface loading, e.g. by a sit-on lawn mower or an energetic game of garden football. Tunnel repairs away from the main area of activity are a good sign of a main tunnel.

In dry, sandy, stony, or acidic soils, there will be less food and the burrow will be more extensive, covering a much larger area and will also go much deeper. If there is a layer of soil, overlaying a layer of clay, then the mole will stick in the earth layer since clay is a bad material for digging in and does not support earthworms. During periods of wet weather, the soil will quickly become waterlogged, so the mole will usually have a convenient place of retreat on ground with better drainage – this is the most likely location for the nest. Find this, and you will probably be on to a winner!

Landscaping features Depending on the area, there may be certain features that give clues as to where you should expect the mole to be, and what he will be doing. The key things to note are: - Ponds and watercourses - Trees and hedgerows - Planting areas for flowers or vegetables Ponds and watercourses are useful since the give an indication of the height of the water table in that area. In periods of dry weather, the mole may head towards these areas in search of moist soil that is good for digging and contains lots of food – excavations in these areas will usually be temporary feeding grounds. In wet weather, these areas will become saturated and the mole will avoid them in favour of higher ground until they dry out. Trees, hedgerows, paved areas, sheds, and buildings are great for sheltering a nest or network of permanent tunnels since they will provide shelter and prevent sudden saturation of the soil in the event of a downpour. If you are lucky enough to live somewhere hot, then they also stop the soil from drying out too much. Planted areas can be favourites for hungry moles, since the regular tilling and provision of mulch and compost provide a great habitat for worms. There are however a poor place to build a nest, so there will normally be linking tunnels from this foraging area to the nest and other feeding grounds. It will be frustrating trying to catch a mole in a flowerbed, so look for these linking tunnels / mole hill lines approaching from elsewhere.

The art of mole trapping

Choosing a trap site The first question to ask is: “what situation am I dealing with?” There are four options: 1 A new arrival. When there have not been signs of mole activity for a long period. 2 An interloper. Characterised by a single line of mole hills from ‘point A’ to ‘point B’. 3 A small number of established burrows undergoing expansion. A sudden explosion of activity where there was previously only the occasional hill. 4 An established burrow or network of burrows. This is the classic ‘nightmare field full of mole hills’ with many residents and little of no obvious pattern of activity. In each case, you should apply a different strategy. We will now look at each in turn.

The new arrival If it is a New Arrival it should be obvious, since you will not have had signs of mole activity recently (with in the last couple of months) and the activity will have started near to the perimeter of the affected area. Now is the time to get started, before he makes too much of a mess! In the early stages, he will probably be ‘living’ elsewhere, so look for the ‘access point’ to your property, and set a trap here. A single trap should be enough, since every time he comes back he will pass this way. Check the trap regularly and if you do not make a catch reset up to 3 or 4 times before moving to a new location further along the tunnel.

The interloper If it is an Interloper then there will be only one or two lines of mole hills, in a generally straight direction. They will appear to be going from a ‘point A’ to a ‘point B’. There are two cases when this might occur; firstly where a mole is exploring and looking for better feeding grounds further afield, and secondly where a male is searching out a female to mate with. In both cases, you should find a couple of good sections of tunnel between two mole hills and set two traps as soon as possible after the hills appear. It is important to do it soon since the mole may only pass through once or twice. You should set two traps since you may only get one chance at the critter. Leave the traps down a little longer than you would normally (up to 72 hours) as you wouldn’t want to pull them up too soon; before he returns. If they have been blocked up, you will probably not get a second chance. If you do not catch him, then you could follow the line of hills and try to find his main burrow. Look carefully at the hills to determine which were the most recent. Then follow them back to the earliest hill you can find. This is likely to be the edge of his existing pre-existing burrow. Probe in this area for a spur tunnels and set a couple of traps. Remember: if it is a long standing burrow, there may be little or no evidence of excavation in the area.

The sudden explosion If you have had the occasional mole hill, but you then get an explosion of them, it is almost certainly one more moles are off in search of a new food source. If this happens, you should think about what is causing this new need for more food (see sections on ‘the mole’ and ‘studying the signs’).

In this case, you have probably been trying to catch the mole(s) for some time, and have been unable to make a successful trap – usually because you have been trying in the feeding grounds, and have not been able to locate a main run. Classically you will have experienced a high number of filled-in traps. If so, then you should take advantage of this new activity to catch the mole out. When the mole is excavating new runs, he will expect to encounter cave-ins and unfamiliar obstacles. He will also not be moving slowly and carefully looking for prey. This is an ideal situation to make a clean catch. First, try to establish in which direction the network is ‘growing’. Focus your efforts at the ‘root’ of these growths, since this will maximise your chances. Here the mole will be in ‘transport’ mode, getting to the digging site. If you position too close to the end of a new tunnel, you risk the trap getting filled in with spoil, from a new excavation. You also risk the mole not returning this specific branch again, in favour of a more promising option. Ideally try to set at least 2 -3 traps to make the most of this opportunity before the mole goes back to foraging mode.

Established burrows and networks In this case, you have probably not tried to control the mole population in some time. There will be a confusing array of mole hills everywhere with little distinct pattern. However, all is not lost. You can still succeed, so long as you plan your attack.

First, try to work out if there is an obvious ‘access point’ to the area. If there are ditches, walls, or a road along three sides, focus on the fourth. A good place is usually a gateway or gap in the hedge – these will easier to tunnel under than deep root systems or foundations. Probe in this area to find the access point, and set a couple of traps in this area. If moles are coming in and out of the area, they will probably be travelling at speed and this should give some good clean catches. Next, decide on a direction, and work methodically around the field. In a large field, you may want to spiral inwards, in a smaller field, it is better to work in segments (like slices of a pie). Once you have completed a full circuit, wait a few days and then return to see if and where any new activity is. Ideally for this kind of work, you should be setting as many traps as possible in each area. This will speed up the process and make much lighter work.

Top tips See our website for more tips on choosing trap sites and catching moles.

The art of mole trapping

Using the trap Once you have decided on a site for your trap, you will then need the next thing to learn is how to set it properly. As each design of trap is slightly different, you will need to approach this in a slightly different way. It is impossible to cover the setting techniques for all the different traps, but the four most effective killing traps (the EasySet, the Duffus, the Scissor, and the Talpex) and the best live capture trap (the Tube Trap) are each described in turn in the following sections. Firstly, we look at the general idea and each of the stages since many of them are the same: - - - - - - - -

Work out which way the tunnel goes Uncover the tunnel Clear and prepare the tunnel Set the trap Seal and Cover the trap Mark the trap (if necessary) Tidy up Check Back

Which way? Before you start digging, you should check which direction the tunnel goes in. Although it might appear obvious, and tunnels usually run from the probe point to the nearest mole runs, they can go in pretty much any direction.

Lay your trap down on the ground on its side, so you get the length right, and probe in a circle around the first ‘strike’. It may be helpful to place a stick or marker in the first hole so you don’t lose track of it. When you find the tunnel again, you could also mark this point. The two strike points will tell you the direction of the tunnel.

Uncover the tunnel It is now time to uncover the tunnel. Ideally this will be done with a spade making just 4 cuts, creating a single solid sod of turf. If you ‘hack’ at it, or use too small a tool (such as a trowel) you will cause more damage to the lawn than is strictly necessary. First, make two cuts perpendicular to the line of the tunnel. One cut at each of the strike points. Second, make two further cuts parallel to the line of the tunnel, and angled slightly so that they are aimed about an inch from the line of the tunnel. Use either the spade or a trowel to carefully lift the sod out. It should be a trapezoidal shape. In good firm soil, the run will be obvious, entering through one wall of the hole and leaving through the opposite wall. In looser or dry soil, it may be difficult to see. Use a small trowel or a finger to feel for the softer soil that has fallen into the tunnel.

Clear and prepare Start by using a small trowel to lift out any loose earth from the bottom of the hole, and also from the tunnels leading to the hole. Be careful not to collapse the roof. Put this loose soil to one side. The next steps vary depending upon the trap type. See the individual sections for more details. In general, you should feel in the bottom of the run for any obstructions such as roots or stones.

Small stones should be removed; large stone are often easier to push down further into the ground and out of the way. Roots can be cut and removed. Do not pull on them as this will often ruin your trapping site. Finally, smooth the tunnel floor with a tamper or with your fingers in preparation for the trap.

Set the trap

Mark the spot It is usually a good idea to mark where you have set a trap, especially if they are deep in the ground. This will serve as a warning to others, and also help you find the trap when you return to check it. A stake with a small strip of coloured tape is idea, but you could use pretty much anything.

Essentially, place the trap in the run. There is more to it that that though, and each trap needs to be done a little differently. See the individual trap sections for more details.

Some of the smaller traps or traps that need to be covered fully may benefit from a length of coloured string / hazard tape tied to one of the springs / ends. This will not affect the operation, but will make it easier to retrieve if the marker stick is moved for any reason.

Seal and cover

Tidy up

Again, this does depend on the trap type, but in general you should try to make sure that no light gets through into the tunnel, and that any earth / grass used to plug the gaps doesn’t jam the mechanism. Most traps will be powerful enough to push a light covering out of the way, but a stone in the wrong place could scupper you.

Once you have set all of your traps, it is usually a good idea to kick over the mole hills in the area. If you rake the soil out over the grass, then it will eventually ‘settle in’ and not cause damage. Otherwise you could use a large spade to pick up a whole hill and move it off to one side; it will usually be good quality top-soil and perfect for potting.

You should also make sure that the trap is settled in, and will cannot be dislodged or moved by the mole. If it wobbles as the mole enters, or can be ‘dug’ out, you will have less success.

If you have dug out sections of turf, these can be left to one side and put back when you are done. In hot weather, they should be placed in the shade to prevent them from drying out.

Small gaps around the sides can be sealed with earth from a molehill or earth knocked from the bottom of the sod you dug out. Larger gaps can be easily bridged with a slice of turf. If there is livestock in the area, the trap is deep, or if you expect very heavy rain you may want to cover it. A deep trap can be covered with a piece of slate, plywood, or the original sod. A shallow trap is best covered with an upturned bucket.

The art of mole trapping

Using the EasySet mole trap Checking back

However, in summary what you are trying to achieve is:

Preparation

Generally the rule is to check back after 24 hours. Moles are very active and visit most parts of their ‘active’ burrow regularly. Sprung traps will be easy to see and should be lifted.

1 The perfect sized hole, dug by lifting a single sod of turf.

Very little preparation is needed for the EasySet trap. So long as you have followed the instructions in the previous section, you should be ready to go.The only exception is when the earth is very hard or dry. In this case you may have difficulty seating the trap down into the base of the run properly with-out either setting it off or damaging it.

If there is no mole, and it is full of soil, clear out the tunnel and trap and reset. If there is a mole, then you have two options: One; if you believe that you have found a main run, bury the mole somewhere nearby, repair the tunnel, and reset the trap. You will have a good chance of catching another. Revisit in 2-3 days’ time. If you keep catching in this location, and there is a large scale problem you might decide to leave the trap down semi-permanently. This is likely if the tunnel is an access point to the trapping area. Two; if you believe that you are catching in spur tunnels, or in the feeding grounds, bury the mole in the trap site, repair and damage to the turf, and site the trap elsewhere. If the trap has not been sprung, you should still lift it to check that it has not been filled in. Clear it out as necessary and reset up to 3 more times. If you still have not caught anything you are probable in a disused or ‘inactive’ spur. Try setting elsewhere. In the unlikely event that the mole is not dead, you should be ready to dispatch him quickly. It is not nice, but leaving him is cruel since he will no doubt have sustained significant injuries. The best way is to leave him in the trap, place the trap on the ground, and hit him hard on the nose with a trowel. Don’t be shy, harder is better than not hard enough.

Other trap types We can’t cover every trap here, so if you have a different one, you will need to infer the best techniques. If you’ve read this section, and the sections on specific traps that follow, you probably understand the goals, and common sense should suffice.

2 A hole aligned with the direction of the tunnel, and in a straight section of tunnel. 3 A smooth tunnel that shows no signs of disturbance to the mole. 4 No obvious obstacles in the run, other than the trigger. 5 A good seal around the trap, so no light gets into the run. 6 A covered and marked trap that will not be a hazard, and will be easy to find again.

You should use a piece of wire or the tip of your trowel to ‘score’ some grooves in the base of the tunnel to accept the ridged edge of the killing hoop. This will allow them to sit, hidden, and the mole to pass over them.

Setting First, place the un-armed trap in the hole. Check that the fit is good and that the trap lines up well; the trap should slide down easily but not be too loose. Next, lift the trap out and arm it by pressing down on the plunger. Keeping your fingers clear of the killing hoops, carefully insert the trap into the hole. Push down until the ridges are buried in the bottom of the run. Make sure to push down on the plunger, not the casing. If you push too hard on the casing, the trap may go off. If you are unsure how hard or far to push, have a go above ground in soil of a similar density and moisture content. Practice pushing the trap down until the hoops are buried, but not so that the trigger loop touches the ground.

Seal and cover Very little effort is needed with this trap. There are no through holes that will admit light, so all you need to do is pack some loose earth around the edges of the casing. Remember to cover the trap if there is livestock in the area, or if you expect very heavy rain.

Checking The EasySet is a breeze to check. It will immediately be obvious if it has been set-off as the plunger will be up. In any case, it is easy to slide it out

1

Casing

2

Trigger

3

Killing hoop

4

Pressure ridges

5

Plunger

of the shaft, leaving the walls intact, check, and then re-insert. No need to mess around digging it out or burying it again. If it has been filled in, be sure to clear out the tunnel again. When resetting, push it down a little further to ensure the hoops are fully covered.

Trap maintenance The EasySet needs little maintenance, since the mechanism is enclosed. Occasionally, the casing may get some earth inside it, particularly if the mole has filled it in a couple of times. Simply place the trap in a bucket of warm water for 5-10 minutes to loosen up any dried mud, then ‘swill around’ to clear the mud from inside. If this doesn’t work, then it can easily be disassembled by undoing the 4 screws. Before unscrewing, made sure the trap is in the fired position. After cleaning, re-assemble as you found it. When not in use, do not store the trap in the set position. As well as gradually weakening the springs, this will present a hazard to anybody that happens across it.

The art of mole trapping

Using the Duffus trap Preparation

Seal and cover

Get a good one

Setting up for the Duffus trap is the same as for most other traps. Make sure that the bottom of the run is nice and smooth and that you have cleared out the tunnels.

Once set, build up any gaps around the trap using turf or earth, then sprinkle a relatively thick layer of earth over the top, sufficient that most of the springs and metal work is covered. Compress this down (careful of the trigger) and ensure that all the holes are plugged.

Some traps of this design are notoriously bad. Issues include: over-sized trigger loops, which the mole can stick its head through; over length retaining bars that are insensitive or may ‘catch’ the killing loop half way up; and weak springs that do not give a clean kill. If you go for one of these, make sure you get it from a quality supplier such as The Flat Pack.

Roots and stones are less likely to be a problem since the killing action is upwards rather than lateral.

1

Half barrel

2

Killing loop

3

Trigger

4

Torsion spring

5

Retaining bar

If the run is very hard or dry you may have difficulty seating the trap down into the base of the run properly with-out damaging it or setting it off. In this case, you should use a piece of wire or the tip of your trowel to ‘score’ some grooves in the base of the tunnel to accept the ridged edge of the killing hoop. This will allow them to sit, hidden, and the mole to pass over them.

Setting When setting the Duffus trap you need to be very careful not to give yourself a crack on the fingers. 1 Hold the trap by the sides, position it against your stomach, and make sure the retaining bar is hanging free. 2 Push down on the killing loop with both thumbs to compress the spring. Hold it there with one hand, making sure your fingers are not through the killing loop, and flick the retaining bar over. 3 Hold the retaining bar with your free hand and remove the first hand that was holding the killing loop. Use this hand to hook the trigger over the retaining bar. 4 Maintain pressure on the trigger, holding it in place while you release pressure on the retaining bar. Ensure fingers are clear before releasing the trigger. This is important to avoid injury as sometimes the trigger will not lock onto the retaining bar properly. 5 Turn the trap around and set the other side in the same way.

Make sure there are no stones on top, but otherwise the springs will be powerful enough to work through the earth. Finally, cover as appropriate if required.

Checking If you are checking traps that have not gone off, be careful not to knock the trigger and give yourself a sore finger. Every time you check a trap, you will need to clear out any earth that falls into the tunnel and re-prepare as you did when you originally set it. If you keep finding that the trap has been filled in, check the sensitivity of the trigger, and make sure that you are not setting the trap too deep or too shallow in relation to the tunnel. Ideally the only metal in the line of the tunnel should be the trigger, which should almost (but not quite) touch the floor of the tunnel.

Trap maintenance Before setting, made sure to brush off any dried on dirt / mud. If the trap becomes rusty, don’t use an oil or lubricant; simply use a wire brush to remove the rust. If you find that the trap is not firing reliably (you can test be seeing how much force is needed on the trigger pin to set it off) you can bend the ‘hook’ on the pin out a little, so that is at 90 degrees to the main length. This is easily done with a pair of pliers and will help the retaining pin slip off more easily. When not in use, do not store the trap in the set position. As well as gradually weakening the springs, this will present a hazard to anybody that happens across it.

Trigger loops can easily be squished and retaining bars shortened, but make sure you do a spring strength test: lower the spring gently onto a finger and try to pull it out. If you can, then don’t bother with that trap.

The art of mole trapping

Using the scissor trap

Using the Talpex trap position, give the handles a squeeze so the trigger drops out, and then let go. Do this a few times until there are good grooves in the floor and the trap springs shut quickly. Finally re-smooth the tunnel to remove any fallen debris, reset the trap, and place.

Seal and cover 1

Handles

2

Trigger plate

3

Killing jaws

4

Spring

5

Retaining wire

Preparation

For this trap you will need quite a lot of turf, or a ‘mat’ of long grass, to support the coverings. This is because there is a lot of open space around the set trap and you don’t want earth to fall down into the tunnel. Separate the turf / grass into two halves and place them either side of the handles. Then seal with earth, gently compacting to seal any gaps or holes. Cover as necessary.

Checking If you get a high number of filled in traps, your trigger is probably too stiff. Try setting it angled up slightly (see photo). This will make it more sensitive to moles coming from that direction, but will reduce the chances of catching from the opposite direction.

Trap maintenance

When digging the hole, make sure you don’t dig it out to wide. The trap is fairly small, and you ideally want the claws to be hidden, recessed into the side walls of the tunnel.

Before setting, made sure to brush off any dried on dirt / mud. If the trap becomes rusty, don’t use an oil or lubricant. Simply use a wire brush to remove the rust.

It is very important that you make sure there are no stones in the bottom of the tunnel that could jam in the claws and prevent them from closing properly. Similarly, if the soil is very hard, it is worth ‘turning it’ in order loosen it. This can be done easily with a trowel. Alternatively, pour some water on it which should soften it. You should then use a tamping tool to re-smooth the bottom.

Setting Arm the trap by squeezing the handles together and placing the trigger plate in between the two jaws. Make sure that the trigger placement is central, and that the retaining wire will not prevent triggering. Place the trap in the hole, seating it down so the trigger plate is 1-1.5cm above the floor of the tunnel and the claws are recessed into the side walls of the tunnel. You may need to ‘work it in’. Once it is in

Preparation Setting up for the Talpex trap is very similar to the scissor trap. It is very important that you make sure there are no stones in the bottom of the tunnel that could jam in the claws and prevent them from closing properly. Similarly, if the soil is very hard, it is worth ‘turning it’ in order loosen it. This can be done easily with a trowel. Alternatively pour some water on it which should soften it. First, check that the hole is the right width, by placing the un-armed trap in the bottom. Make adjustments as necessary. Then arm the trap. This is done by placing the trap on the ground, with the trigger pin on the bottom. Press the upper handle down firmly using both hands until the spring is fully compressed. Next, rotate the pin over the top, and slot it into the hole in the trigger plate. Carefully insert the trap into the hole, making sure not to collapse the sides of the hole with the claws. Push the trap down firmly, so that the claws are settled well down into the base and walls of the tunnel. As you push it down, let it tip over a little, so that it is not quite level. Tip it so that the side of the trigger plate that the pin slots into is higher. This keeps the trigger plate lower in the tunnel and prevents the mole from squeezing past so easily.

1

Claws

2

Handle

3

Spring

4

Trigger plate

5

Trigger pin

place and fire the trap. This technique only works with this type of trap due to the vertical triggering arrangement.

Checking If you get a high number of empty, and un-triggered traps, make sure you are seating them down firmly enough. The trap is probably being set too high, leaving space for the mole to pass underneath.

Setting

You could also try the ‘open set method’.

When not in use, do not store the trap in the set position. As well as gradually weakening the springs, this will present a hazard to anybody that happens across it.

Make sure that the tube is the right way up and that the flaps are hanging down. Finally, if there is a tell-tale hole, place a thin wand in it. When a mole enters, this will be knocked over and will alert you to a catch.

If you get a high number of filled traps, try setting them a little higher, as the mole may be running into the trigger plate from the side; thus not setting the trap off.

Get a good one

Seal and cover

Many scissor traps suffer from three flaws: the spring is not strong enough, resulting in a slow death for the animal and sometime an escaped trap; also the trigger is too stiff, so the the trap is not sensitive enough. The legs are too long, so the trigger plate sits too high and is not set off.

Here, there are two options.

Test the strength of the springs by gently lowering the jaws onto your finger. If it is not particularly painful, then find a different model. You can experiment with setting the trigger at an angle for more sensitivity, but this is really a limitation of the design. Look for legs that are shorter and more curved, rather than straight.

One; pack some loose earth under the trap, so that it covers the trigger plate, and use turf to bridge the gaps around the edges. Cover and seal to exclude light as you would any other trap. Start with this method as it is usually the preferred technique. Two; leave the trap fully open, and put no soil on top of it. Only pack out the sides to ensure the trap is secure and will not move. The mole should come to investigate the opening in his burrow and the try to fill in the hole. When he pushes earth up into the gap, he will press on the trigger

Trap maintenance Before setting, made sure to brush off any dried on dirt / mud. If the trap becomes rusty, don’t use an oil or lubricant. Simply use a wire brush to remove the rust. If you find that the trap is not firing reliably (you can test be seeing how much force is needed on the trigger plate to set it off), then you can file down the end of the trigger pin to a chamfered edge, rather than a 90 degree end. This will help the plate slip off more easily. When not in use, do not store the trap in the set position. As well as gradually weakening the springs, this will present a hazard to anybody that happens across it.

The art of mole trapping

Using the tube trap Setting First, check that the flaps are free to move. Next, check that the hole is the correct length It is better to be a little too large than too small, since otherwise you will cause a cave in when you place the trap. Once you are sure the hole is the OK, lower the trap into the hole, keeping it mostly vertical. Gently fit one end to one of the tunnels, making sure that he flared end covers the tunnel entrance evenly. If trap is miss-aligned the mole is more likely to be put off. Next rotate the tube down, until the other end aligns with the opposite tunnel. Hold it inplace while you pack some earth around the ends to hold it in place.

1

Tube

2

Flared entry

3

Entry flap

4

Hinge

5

Separation point

6

Tell-tale

Make sure that the tube is the right way up and that the flaps are hanging down. Finally, if there is a tell-tale hole, place a thin wand in it. When a mole enters, this will be knocked over and will alert you to a catch.

Seal and cover Because the tube is fully enclosed, not much covering is needed. Make sure that the ends are cemented in firmly, and if you have dug deep fill in the gap underneath the tube. Plug the hole where the wand exits, if there is one, with a little earth and you are done. Remember to cover the trap if there is livestock in the area, or if you expect very heavy rain.

Checking Preparation The obvious difference when setting a tube trap is the length of the excavation needed. You will need to have found a straight section of run of sufficient length to place the tube trap. Do not worry too much about tidying up in the bottom of the hole, but do make sure that the tunnel entrances are in good order. It is often helpful to dig down a little deeper, to give more space when working. This can be subsequently filled in.

A tube trap needs very regular checking. You should aim to check every 12 hours, and at an absolute minimum every 24 hours. Any longer and you risk starving the mole to death, surely a cruel way to go. If you have caught a mole, it will usually be obvious due to the scrabbling. Do not attempt to peek in, as he will probably escape and may give you a nasty nip. Immediately take him to wherever you plan to release him and quickly separate the two halves of the tube. It is a good idea to wear long sleeves and thick gloves.

If the tube has been filled in, open it up and clear it with a stick. Clear out the tunnels again and reset it – this time be more careful to align it properly and not to dislodge earth into the openings. If the trap is filled a couple of times, you may also try wedging the flaps open with small vertical twigs, inserted underneath the flaps. The mole will then not need to push of the flaps to get in. The twigs should easily be knocked aside as he enters.

Trap maintenance Virtually no maintenance is needed with a tube trap. If the flaps become stiff, you may need to clean out the hinges or remove any rust with a wire brush.

The art of mole trapping

Risk Assessment Unfortunately, in today’s world it is vital important that you consider the risks of what you are doing. Mole traps are designed to trigger with a lethal closing force and settiing them is, of course, a dangerous activity, and thought must be given to what might go wrong. You should properly consider the risks every time you set a mole trap –and this is especially important when traps are set on land that is accessible to the public.

The main questions you should ask yourself are: 1 Does anybody else, including children, have access to the trapping area? 2 Might they sustain an injury from one of the traps? 3 Do any other non-target animals (such as pets, livestock, or wild animals) have access to the trapping area? 4 Might they sustain an injury from one of the traps? 5 Are there any subterranean hazards that may cause injury to your- self when placing the trap? These might include buried electrical cables, water, or gas pipes. 6 Could the traps cause damage to any farm / domestic machinery, such as lawn mowers? There may also be other possibilities, not mentioned here. If the answer to any of the above (or your own) questions is ‘yes’, then you should decide on the likelihood and the severity of the risk. The likelihood is how likely you consider something to occur. The severity is how significant you think the risk is; would it result in a small bruise, or in death? If you decide that the both likelihood and the severity are low, then you may decide that that is an acceptable risk; you should continue, and monitor the situation. However, if you decide that there is either a high likelihood or a high severity, then you should take further action to mitigate these risks. This could involve a number of different actions, for instance: 1 Fencing off the area 2 Placing signage to warn other people 3 Clearly marking trap sites 4 Using a metal detector / utilities maps to locate (and avoid) under ground pipes and cables Remember that the consequences of setting a trap are the sole responsibility of the person that set the trap.

Beagle is a British company that provides an easy, effective solution to unwanted moles in your lawns. Our pest control products are designed and manufactured exclusively in the UK to the highest quality standards. They should last you a life-time, and should be a pleasure to use.

Beagle Garden Products, 327 Histon Road, Cambridge CB4 3NF, United Kingdom Tel: 01223 927 212 Email: [email protected] www.beagleproducts.com © Beagle 2012