TR AINING WORKBOOK

INTRODUCTION From KeraStraight’s Brazilian laboratory to Great Britain and the world, KeraStraight has set the benchmark in the industry for beautifully conditioned, frizz free hair. KeraStraight’s treatments and styling products transform hair, leaving it revitalised, repaired and looking gorgeous. KeraStraight’s unique combinations of award-winning proteins, amino acids and advanced polymers deliver unrivalled performance.

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CONTENTS HOW IT WORKS The hair’s cuticle, cortex and medulla pH scale KeraStraight ingredients and their actions

PRODUCTS The KeraStraight product portfolio - what it does, what it contains and how it works.

CO N S U LTAT I O N Consultation essentials Client/Stylist expectations

ST EP BY ST EP The KeraStraight process in detail

HOMECARE How to maintain and maximise results

INTENSE BOOST

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HOW IT WORKS The hair’s natural composition is mainly , a protein containing 16 different that repeat and interact. Amino acids are critical as they serve as the building blocks for proteins. With KeraStraight, the amino acid is added to the existing protein molecules to form a semi-permanent patch across the hair’s inner structure to create a new shape with the aid of heat. KeraStraight Treatments do not contain any chemical ingredients that permanently change the structure or damage the hair.

THE POPCORN EFFECT The wheat proteins and moisture capturing ingredients in Treatments and Products build as they dry within the hair achieving most effectiveness as they become 100% dried in - we describe this as The Popcorn effect.

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keratin amino acids Cysteine Intense Boost KS Style

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KEY INGREDIENTS K ER AT I N The main protein in hair which provides comprising of amino acids.

and resilience,

CARBOCYSTEINE A low pH amino acid protein, derived from rice and wheat grains, that delivers

UREA A synthesised moisturiser and humectant that allows Keratin to be and into a new shape.

KS COMPLEX Protects against environmental stresses and in the treatment with added shine and moisture whilst providing an immediate super-light feeling. Also included in our Straight Maintain Shampoo & Conditioner and Protein & Moisture Mask to keep the treatment locked in for maximum time.

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strength 16 Cysteine softened and transformed locks

KER ASTR AIGHT A DVA N TAG ES U NIVERSAL FO R ALL HAIR T YPES KeraStraight KS Ultimate is suitable for

hair types

C E R T I F I E D 10 0 % A L D E H Y D E / F O R M A L D EH Y D E FR EE I N B OT H F O R M U L A & VA P O U R As part of our dedication to health and safety, all KeraStraight Treatments are put through their paces with stringent UK/EU testing by Intertek to ensure full compliance to launch. *Intertek is an independent Global testing company that provide quality and safety reports for many of the world’s leading brands and companies.

LOW P H P R OT EI N KeraStraight utilises Carbocysteine - a low pH protein which, when added to the hair’s natural , forms a semi-permanent patch across the hair’s inner structure to create a new shape.

KS CO M P L E X VA P O U R C A P T U R E T ECH N O LO GY Enzymes capture the molecules in the vapour making the treatment pleasant for client and . KS Complex also keeps the treatment sealed in for longer.

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all prior proteins hairdresser

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S T R A I G H T EN S & R EPA I R S S I M U LTA N E O U S LY Straightening & Strengthening - How the hair

Repair & Softening - How the hair

RED U CES ST YLIN G TI M E & RE MOVES FRIZ Z KeraStraight Treatments use a blend of proteins, conditioners and silicones that effectively control frizz.

L A STS U P TO 4 M O N T H S Depending on hair type, the treatment lasts longest on more porous hair. KeraStraight Straight Maintain Shampoo and Conditioner will maximise the full effects and longevity of the treatment.

C A N C O LO U R 2 D AY S E I T H E R S I D E General rules: when the hair, colour 2 days before KeraStraight, or if colour leave 2 days after KeraStraight. Pure tone on tone (non oxidising) colours can be applied after the first shampoo.

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behaves feels lightening adding

H E A LT H & S A FE T Y Health and Safety is at the forefront of all of our products and all KeraStraight’s ingredients are rigorously sourced and tested for and best . Our scientists are continuous in their efforts to ensure that not only do we have the best product but that we are pro-active in finding solutions for the future that provide quality unrivalled results for our business partners and clients, setting the standard for the industry.

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compliance performance

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PH In chemistry, pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of an aqueous solution. Pure water is said to be neutral, with a pH close to 7. Solutions with a pH less than 7 are said to be and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are . When an alkaline substance is applied to hair, it the cuticle. Pre-Treatment Cleanser has a pH of and is used to gently open the cuticle layers in preparation for the treatment, as this is higher than the hair’s natural pH of 4.5-5.5. Acidic solutions have an opposite effect to alkalis and the ability to close down the cuticle layers. KeraStraight Treatments have a very low pH of which allows the of the hair’s shape. The pH scale on the left shows the approximate pH of the hair and the pH of KeraStraight KS Ultimate Treatment. KS Ultimate has a very low pH of 1.5. This makes the hair incredibly ionic, creating a block to how the hydrogen bonds covalently join together allowing a straighter, smoother shape.

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acidic alkaline opens 6.5 1.5 transformation

PRODUCTS P R E -T R E ATM EN T C L E A N S ER Pre-Treatment Cleanser (pH 6.5) is a sulphate and free shampoo, which prepares the hair for application. This cleanser gently the hair cuticles whilst the hair, to enable total ease of application and product penetration. Application: Shampoo the hair twice. For hair that is less porous including virgin and resistant hair, leave the second shampoo on the hair for up to minutes, covering with a plastic cap.

P R E -T R E AT M E N T S P R AY P L U S Pre-Treatment Spray Plus is a leave in multifunction protein treatment that repairs hair strength, recovers hair integrity, improves elasticity and provides protection against breakage. KeraStraight Pre-Treatment Spray Plus helps to regulate the / balance when used directly prior to application of a KeraStraight treatment. Application: Apply to damp, towel dried hair focussing on the most areas of the hair, immediately to the application of the KeraStraight Treatment.

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sodium chloride opens softening 5 resistant moisture / protein porous prior

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K S U LT I M AT E •

Universal For

•

Advanced

•

Straightens & Repairs

•

Strengthens to the Very Last

•

Hair Types Technology

Saving

•

Eliminates

•

Lasts up to

•

Health &

months Certified

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All Protein Simultaneously Tip Time Frizz 4 Safety

3 M A I N C AT E G O R I ES

• Very weak & fragile hair

• Normal or coloured hair

• Resistant hair

• Platinum blonde & white hair

• Wavy & unruly hair

• Very curly hair

• Highly coloured & porous hair

• Damaged hair

• Virgin hair • Afro Caribbean hair

PERSONALISING THE SERVICE The KeraStraight service can be personalised to each client by adapting the following 3 areas •

The

•

The

•

The number of

of the irons of the irons

The application matrix sets out a fantastic guide, but by adjusting the 3 areas above allows a hairstylist to design a personalised service for their clients.

A P P L I C AT I O N M AT R I X KeraStraight’s Application Matrix has been designed to help you tailor the KeraStraight treatment to different hair types. The matrix should be used for every consultation stage to decide timings, temperature and amount of passes of the iron.

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timings temperature passes

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200-210 °C 390-410 °F

180-190 °C 355-375 °F

The Timings

The Temperature of the Irons

•

•

•

The Passes of the Irons

The KeraStraight service can be personalised to each client by adapting the following 3 areas

PERSONALISING THE SERVICE

Passes with Iron 2-3cm wide sections Reduce passes on weak ends

Reduce temperature on weak ends

6-7

45

30

Treatment ‘Sink In’ (minutes)

4-6

5

0

Pre-Treatment Cleanser Leave On (minutes)

Iron Temperature

Normal Coloured Dry or Damaged

Highly Porous White Grey

7-10

220-230 °C 430-450 °F

45

5

Resistant Very Curly Afro or Virgin

KS E A SYCO M B The KS EasyComb is an essential tool for perfect KeraStraight treatments which provides fantastic of the hair whilst protecting contact of the skin with the irons. •

Protects

Hair

•

Creates Tension for

Hair

K ER A S T R A I G H T T I TA N I U M I R O N S Developed to maximise the ease of the KeraStraight treatment with a digital readout for precise temperature control. Titanium irons are the most suitable for protein keratin treatments, providing a smooth and consistent result. Use between and . Never use above .

S T R A I G H T M A I N TA I N S H A M P O O Straight Maintain Shampoo is sulphate and free (which strips keratin from the hair and shortens the life of the treatment). It contains our pioneering KS Complex that helps maximise the longevity of the treatment, and is developed to protect hair from environmental damage.

S T R A I G H T M A I N TA I N CO N D I T I O N ER The low pH (3.5) formula in Straight Maintain Conditioner adapts to the new hair’s behaviour and contains our to maximise the treatments longevity.

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control Fine Coarse 180°C/355°F 230°C/450°F 230°C/450°F sodium chloride KS Complex

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K ER A S T R A I G H T P R OT EI N M A S K Contains low weight proteins to form a protein net that rebuilds the hair’s strength. Application: Apply and leave on for strengthening benefits for weaker and

minutes, once a week, for ongoing hair types.

KER ASTR AIGHT MOISTURE M ASK Contains Palmeira Tucuma, a Brazilian fibre palm to act as a humectant to radically improve smoothness and moisture levels in the hair. Application: Apply and leave on for minutes, once a week, for ongoing hydration and moisturising benefits for and dehydrated hair types.

K ER A S T R A I G H T P R OT E C T Suncare / Swimcare KeraStraight Protect Sun Protection Spray protects against UVA/UVB with up to times natural protection. This luxurious, silky spray also reduces the damaging effects of and .

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5 finer 5 coarser 8 salt water chlorine

CO N S U LTAT I O N Like any other professional salon treatment, the KeraStraight service begins with a thorough client consultation. This will include a complete of the hair to ensure you achieve the best results possible. You will need to evaluate the , and . “ about your hair” is the best start to a KeraStraight consultation. It encourages your client to tell you all the things they do not like, which will lead to KeraStraight as their answer to beautiful, easy to manage hair.

TEXTURE Coarse, Normal or Fine. This will determine the amount of required and will influence your decision how long to leave the Pre-Treatment Cleanser and KeraStraight Treatment on to penetrate into the hair. Finer hair will generally need less sink in time and passes with a lower temperature iron. Coarse, resistant hair will benefit from timings and more passes of the iron at a higher temperature.

POROSITY The hair’s ability to absorb moisture and how easily the treatment will ‘sink into’ the hair. The greatest and most dramatic results are achieved on more porous hair that will readily absorb the treatment.

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analysis texture porosity previous history Tell me treatment fewer longer

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For non-porous, very curly & resistant hair types, the Pre-Treatment Cleanser should be left on for minutes to open the cuticle and the Treatment for up to minutes before rinsing off. Covering with a cap during these times helps to maintain the moisture levels. With porous hair, check to ensure that the treatment does not over-absorb into the hair. It is essential to keep all the hair to ensure consistency of results and more treatment may be re-applied to any hair that is becoming dry during the application and development time.

P R E V I O U S H I STO RY Hair that has a previous technical history will generally have a porosity level and will more readily the treatment. This applies to colour and chemical perms, straighteners or relaxers.

HIGHLIGHTS & PA R T I A L CO LO U R I N G When there is both coloured and natural hair, always treat the hair as the porous and leave the treatment on to ‘sink in’ to help it penetrate though the cuticle layers.

C L I E N T/ S T Y L I S T E X P E C TAT I O N S KeraStraight’s smoothing and repair treatments straighten up to 100%. During the consultation process it is important to ensure that the client has an understanding of what the service will deliver on their hair type.

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5 45 damp higher absorb least can

ST EP BY ST EP P R EPA R AT I O N Shampoo

hair twice with KeraStraight , leaving the 2nd shampoo on for up to 5 minutes for very curly and resistant hair types and cover with a cap. Gently , then spray Pre-Treatment Spray Plus through all sections, concentrating on the most porous areas.

A P P L I C AT I O N Apply KS Ultimate in cm sections, close to the root, but not onto to the root. Ensure all hair is kept damp with treatment. Leave for

minutes. Cover with a cap to help retain moisture.

RINSING Rinse for just seconds, do not shampoo (rinse white and very blonde hair for an extra minute). Gently squeeze moisture out. Apply Moisture Lock, comb through and leave for minutes. Rinse for 20 - 30 seconds.

DRYING & IRONING Blow dry hair 100%. Brushes

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Pre-Treatment Cleanser towel dry 2-3 30 - 45 10 - 20 2 may Application Matrix

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be used.

Iron hair slowly in 2-3cm sections using the KS EasyComb. For a perfect first pass, iron the hair from roots to ends in one smooth motion to seal in the smoothness. See for the recommended heat setting and number of passes. Ends will often need less passes.

1S T W A S H / F I N A L S T E P S Hair can be shampooed after just minutes, although most clients will prefer to leave and shampoo themselves at home. Always rinse for

minutes prior to first shampoo

Shampoo using Straight Maintain Shampoo and condition with either Straight Maintain Conditioner, Moisture Mask or Protein Mask. Style as required.

HOMECARE Most regular shampoos contain sodium chloride (salt) which can be very against the benefits of KeraStraight, so KeraStraight have developed Straight Maintain Shampoo and Conditioner to maximise the longevity of the straightening and repair service.

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30 3-5 aggressive

INTENSE BOOST An exciting and revolutionary in-salon treatment service to delight all clients. Intense Boost utilises KeraStraight’s latest ground breaking Protein Mask and Moisture Mask designed to smooth and renew hair from the inside out. •

Moisture Boost - Moisture Without Weight

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Protein Boost - Flexible / Malleable Strength

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The Popcorn Effect - Wheat Proteins - build in Cortex as hair dries

QUICK FIX

F O R A L L YO U R CL I EN TS

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Fast Simple Application -

•

Long Lasting -

•

Minutes

•

Introduction to KeraStraight

Days

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Prolongs KeraStraight

Activated In-Salon Service

•

Not Just For KeraStraight Clients

T R E AT

Cleanse twice with KeraStraight Pre-Treatment Cleanser (do not use Pre-Treatment Cleanser on recent KeraStraight, bright colours or immediately after colour).

Apply treatment mask is normally sufficient depending on hair type. Comb through.

DRY

RINSE

Dry 100% using a medium heat hair dryer or hood dryer.

Rinse thoroughly.

U LT I M AT E B O O S T Delivers even greater repair, strength & hydration. You can now upgrade to an Ultimate Boost by ironing in the treatment just times at °C / °F once dry. These extra steps will take a bit longer so we recommend charging slightly more.

TR015 - Training Workbook KSU

CLEANSE

1. 100%

2. 30

3. 30

4. Heat

5. 10ml

6. 3

7. 180

8. 355