Student Trip to Bordeaux 23rd-26th March 2015

Trip Report

Contents Chateau Guiraud - Robin Navrozov and Jose Luis Ripa Saenz de Navarrete Sauternes GCC Educational Tasting - James Clark Chateau Coutet - Doug Bond and Saide Tuğba Altınöz Chateau Lagrange - Daphne Feng Medoc GCC Educational Tasting - Nayan Gowda Chateau Lynch-Moussas - Justin Martindale and Stuart Fyfe Seminar ‘Grands Crus Classes Trade’ - Margaret Campbell Seminar ‘1855 Classification’ - Fanny Darrieussecq Chateau Beychevelle - Diego Bonnel and Mei Hong Chateau Pontet-Canet - Julian Talaveron Seminar ‘Organic’ - Lin Liu Chateau Pichon Longueville - Shelly Lee and Fernando Mora Chateau Lascombes - Xiahoan Zhang and Shelby Perkins Seminar ‘Terroir, viticulture and winemaking’- Atila Fiath and Eliza Kauce Chateau Rauzan Segla - Catherine Petrie and Geoffrey Moss

Chateau Guiraud - Robin Navrozov The Château Guiraud was our first visit. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon; we were greeted by the first breath of spring wafting on the breeze as we alighted from the coach on the wide gravel drive. We had a tour of the cellars with the charming Xavier Planty and David Ornon, the ebullient Brand Ambassador. Then we had a tasting in the beautiful tasting room overlooking the vineyards. The elevation of the estate is 75m above sea level. Exposition is an important factor for quality, but we were told that the most important factor that determines quality is the decision when to pick, as well as strict selection in the vineyard. Selection is only in the vineyard, by highly trained pickers. Chateau Guiraud is certified Organic. They began the process of conversion in 1996. We were told that chemical treatments are bad for Sauternes because they are mainly based on aluminum phosphate, which inhibits the development of botrytis. Therefore the use of chemicals in the vineyard can delay harvest, which often leads to missing the moment with the best weather for harvest, on which a great vintage relies. It was explained that the use of copper instead of systemic treatments gives healthier vines, higher quality berries and higher levels of aromatic compounds in the wine. Of course there are also drawbacks: with organic viticulture everything is preventative and it is essential to intervene exactly at the right time. When Chateau Guiraud converted to organic viticulture the yields did not go down, because they could hardly be lower than they were already. Yields are 10-12hl/ha to as low as 7hl/ha in some vintages. (In 2012 only 500 cases were produced.) “When you stop using chemicals the grapes have a more harmonious development. “ Stabilization of Sauternes is tricky, we were told. All Sauternes is high in sulfites. At Château Guiraud they are trialing methods to minimize the use of sulfites. For example, they experimented with chilling the wine to -2°C for one night. This experiment was not successful, as chilling the wine made the yeasts less sensitive to SO2. Another trial (still underway) involves subjecting the wine to 5-6 bars of pressure to destroy the structure of the yeasts. How Sauternes is made: Selection is in the vineyard Grapes are picked at potential 20-22% alcohol, kept in small crates until emptied into presses Pressing is very slow and gentle and lasts 3-4 hours Juice runs to underground vat for 1st settling (overnight) Then is transferred to barrel for fermentation and elevage in 100% new oak (variety of different coopers, medium toast) For Sauternes only indigenous yeasts are used: There is no specific selected Sauternes yeast, but work is being done to isolate one.

Barrels are topped up during fermentation causing yeast and sediment to be thrown up out of the barrel (the word “vomissement” was used). Fermentation is arrested by addition of sulphur (30mg/l on average) Racking is 3-4 times a year Wine ages in barrel 18 months before bottling Wine is lightly filtered and fined before bottling Chateau Guiraud produces three wines: The Grand Vin, Petit Guiraud, which is mainly Semillon and is deselected from the Grand Vin – 30% new oak, 30% stainless steel, r.s. 80g/l; and G de Guiraud, which includes wine from parcels outside the Sauternes appellation, and is 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon. Chateau Guiraud does not think that the Sauternes appellation should be expanded to allow for dry wines: “We don’t think the name Sauternes should be used to promote dry wines, as it would create confusion.” For the dry wine some parcels undergo mlf, but never for sweet wines. G de Guiraud (dry wine) – 10-15,000 cases made in 2014. Chateau Guiraud - Jose Luis Ripa Saenz de Navarrete The group is hosted by Mr. David Ornon, Brand Ambassador, and Mr. Luc Planty, Technical Director and son of Mr. Xavier Planty, the Estate Director. The estate was founded by Mr. Pierre Guiraud, a Bordeaux merchant, back in 1766. His descendants and other families succeeded each other as owners of the estate, which became a Premier Grand Cru de Sauternes in 1855. In 2006, Mr. Robert Peugeot, an industrialist, and three wine makers, Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, Stephan Von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière and Xavier Planty, the estate's director, decided to buy Guiraud and, to this days, they remain the owners of the estate. Château Guiraud extends over 128 hectares of mainly sandy gravel soils alternating with smaller areas having a mixture of gravel and clay. Subsoils have a very varied composition (from sand to pure gravel layers, with masses of clay, limestone, marl and even oyster layers), yet they are susceptible to water suffocation in very rainy years. Therefore drains are digged 60cm deep in the ground before any new vines are planted. Even though the appellation Sauternes-Barsac applies to five villages (Sauternes, Barsac, Preignac, Fargues and Bommes), the estate’s vineyards are all located in Sauternes, at an average of 75 metres of altitude above sea level. The microclimate at Guiraud has oceanic influences and the precipitation averages 860mm per year, with and average summer rainfall of 50mm to 60mm per month. Its vineyards, planted with 65% Semillon and 35% Sauvingnon Blanc through massal selection, began the conversion into “organic” in 1996 and became certified organic in 2011. Organic viticulture seems to allow for a better botrytis development. Four wines are currently made at the property: one dry white from non-AOC Sauternes vineyards and three sweet whites from botrityzed grapes with AOC Sauternes, whose vinification is explained nextly. The botrytized grapes’ harvest is made entirely by hand through successive waves (between 2 and 7) when a potential alcohol of 20º is reached.

Fermentation takes place partly in stainless steel vats and partly in barriques, with a preference for indigenous yeasts. It is mentioned that the INRA (Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique, or the French National Institute for the Agronomic Research) is now carrying on a project to cultivate indigenous yeasts only from Sauternes as there are no local strains commercially available at present. The temperature is lowered down to -2ºC in order to stop fermentation, contract yeasts and allow for less SO2 use. Tests are currently being made along with INRA by pressurizing at 4 to 5 bars the wine in order to make the yeast explode and thus eventually avoiding any use of SO2, but results are not yet final. Another interesting technique the estate uses is called “guillage” and consists in filling the barriques used for fermentation up to the top, thus provoking literally the big yeasts to be thrown up out of the barriques through its hole, that is intentionally left uncovered. These sweet wines do not go through malolactic conversion and further spend between 12 and 24 months in wooden vats and barriques before being released. Château Guiraud Tasting: Le G de Château Guiraud 2014 – Bordeaux Blanc Sec 50% Sauvignon 50% Semillon Citric and herbal aromas with some mineral nuances. Bright acidity and alcohol content near 13,5º This wine brings the discussion on whether Sauternes should be used to promote also dry white wines. What is pulling the wineries in the area a present, dry or sweet wines? Petit Guiraud 2013 – AOC Sauternes 65% Semillon 35% Sauvignon Slight botrytis character with some honey notes. Medium acidity and residual sugar near 90 gr/liter Château Guiraud 2008 – AOC Sauternes 1er Grand Cru Classé Dark gold. Peach and sweet fruit aromas. Medium body. Nearly 130 gr/liter of residual sugar and 13,5º alcohol. Soft acidity. Elegant. Château Guiraud 1998 - AOC Sauternes 1er Grand Cru Classé Predominant botrytis character with nutty nuances. 14º alcohol, light acidity, rich. Barsac Tasting:

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Château Romer du Hayot 2010 Château Doisy-Védrines 2010 Château Doisy-Daëne 2010 Château Caillou 2011

Sauternes Tasting :

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Château de Malle 2011 Château Guiraud 2011

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Château Suduiraut 2011 Château Latour Blanche 2010

Sauternes GCC Educational Tasting - James Clark Sauternes Vintages: 2010

- Possibly under-rated vintage. Late harvest after waiting for Botrytis to develop.

- Wines are balanced, with good concentration, showing grace, purity and finesse. - Dry Summer led to very ripe fruit, early October rain produced good Botrytis conditions. - Cool evenings preserved acid levels. 2011

- Excellent vintage for Sauternes, whilst red Bordeaux struggled. - Marked by fresh acidity, pronounced bright fruit aromatics and deep concentration.

- Wet end of summer and hot, dry September-early October ideal conditions for Noble Rot. - Relatively early harvest due to exceptional conditions (almost as early as 2003). Barsac: 1.

Ch Romer du Hayot 2010 - 2ème GCC Barsac

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90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc.

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Fermentation in stainless steel.

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12 months ageing in French oak barriques.

Bright gold. Pronounced honey marmalade, barley sugar indicating botrytis. Dried apricot, floral, light oak toast adds complexity. Velvet smooth texture, crisp acidity, (exact RS and % abv not available). Concentrated dried fruit (apricot, citrus peel), marmalade, integrated oak on palate. Elegant, balanced RS and acidity, long finish.

2.

Ch Doisy Vedrines 2010 - 2ème GCC Barsac

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86% Semillon, 14% Sauvignon Blanc.

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Fermentation in French oak barriques – 60% new.

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18 months in barrel.

Bright gold. Toasty, vanilla oak spice, honeyed, marmalade concentrated, deep intensity on nose. Rich texture, mouth-watering acidity, 13.6% abv, 145g/l RS. Sweet oak spice, toast, marmalade follow through on palate. Unctuous, intense, concentrated – balancing high acidity gives refreshing finish.

3.

Ch Doisy Daëne 2010 - 2ème GCC Barsac

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89% Semillon, 11% Sauvignon Blanc.

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Fermentation in French oak barriques – 30% new.

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10 months in barrel, followed by 9 months in stainless steel.

Bright gold. Reserved aromatics – dried apricot, honey. Medium body, fresh balancing acidity, alcohol a little warming – 13.7% abv, 138g/l RS. Marmalade, light oak spice (clove), well integrated on palate. Moderate concentration/complexity. Well balanced RS-acidity, refined, lighter, elegant style.

4.

Ch Caillou 2011 - 2ème GCC Barsac

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100% Semillon.

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Fermentation - proportion in French oak barriques and proportion in stainless steel.

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18-24 months in barrel.

Bright, deep gold. Restrained nose – honey, dried apricot, light oak toast. Medium body, elegant, refined structure, balancing acidity, 13.8% abv, 127g/l RS.

Marmalade, barley sugar, oak toast. Moderate concentration, balanced, lighter elegant style. Sauternes: 1.

Ch de Malle 2011 - 2ème GCC Sauternes

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68% Semillon, 32% Sauvignon Blanc.

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Fermentation in French oak barriques – 30% new.

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18 months in barrel.

Bright gold. Marmalade, honey, floral, candied pineapple, citrus peel, light oak toast. Velvet texture, medium body, racy acidity, 13.4% abv, 128g/l RS. Clean, crisp finish, precise structure, integrated oak. Upfront on palate – lacks concentration on finish.

2.

Ch Guiraud 2011 - 1er GCC Sauternes

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65% Semillon, 35% Sauvignon Blanc.

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Fermentation in oak barriques – 90% new.

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18-24 months in barrel.

Bright gold. Restrained oak vanilla spice, savoury toast, honey, marmalade. Medium body, crisp acidity, 13.8% abv, 140g/l RS. Marmalade, tinned apricot, well integrated oak toast on palate. Balancing fresh finish, elegant, polished, refined.

3.

Ch Suduiraut 2011 - 1er GCC Sauternes

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93% Semillon, 7% Sauvignon Blanc.

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Fermentation in oak barriques – 50% new.

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16-18 months in barrel.

Bright gold. Barley sugar, savoury oak toast, pineapple, apricot. Density and weight on palate, vibrant, racy acid, 13.5% abv, 150g/l RS. Oak toast, pineapple, apricot, barley sugar on palate. Fresh, balanced finish, good concentration and persistence.

4.

Ch La Tour Blanche 2010 - 1er GCC Sauternes

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80% Semillon, 15% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Muscadelle.

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(Exact elevage not available).

Bright gold. Pronounced, intense aromatics. Bright fruit (ripe pineapple, mango), barley sugar, honey. Medium body, crisp acidity, 14% abv – a little warming, 143g/l RS. Bright fruit, marmalade, well integrated oak toast. Crisp, clean, finish. Balanced concentration, RS and acidity. Finesse. Chateau Coutet - Doug Bond and Saide Tuğba Altınöz HISTORY Chateau Coutet is Premier Grand Cru Classé in 1855 classificaton and situated in Barsac. The Chateau was built by the English as a military fortress in the thirteenth century and the tower dates from this time. Other buildings have been added over time, dating from the 16th and 18th centuries. The size of the estate is 30,5 hectares. Chateau Coutet began wine production in 1643. After the French revolution and until 1923 Chateau Coutet was owned by the Lur Saluces family; owners of Chateau d’Yquem. Vinification during this time occured at Chateau d’Yquem. Allegedly a tunnel connecting the two properties remains in existence.

There is big differences in labels between the older vintages and the new vintages. On older vintages “Coutet” appeared in smaller letters than “Lur Saluces” because the owners wanted to identify the wines of Chateau Coutet as their sweet wines from Barsac. The wines of Chateau Coutet have a strong characteristics of Barsac with a lot of freshness and minerality. In 1923 the estate was sold to the family of Henry-Louis Guy, a hydraulic press manufacturer from Lyon. They introduced the hydraulic press still used for the production of Cuvée Madame. Chateau Coutet was purchased by the Baly family from Alsace in 1977 and has been managed by the second generation since 2008. VINEYARD The vineyards are planted with 75% Semillon, 23%Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Muscadelle. Aline Baly says: “botrytis is the anarchist”, as it is totaly unpredictable. Typically picking is spread across six tries. The vineyards of Chateau Coutet have limestone and clay soils. Chateau Coutet has their own nursery of selection massale, established in 2011. Rootstocks are 3309 and 101-14, the latter used particularly on the limestone soils to prevent Chlorosis. HARVEST There are 18 people working at Chateau Coutet, many of them the third generation of their family to do so. In addition 75 harvesters are hired for every harvest. The effort is to hire the best harvesters they can and to work with the same individuals every year. Every Coutet person is responsible for a small group of harvesters, ensuring efficient and strict selection of grapes. WINERY The hydraulic press is used to produce Cuvée Madame. The grapes are picked at higher concentration for Cuvée Madame, which has higher potantial alcohol than other wines of the Chateau. Cuvée Madame is not produced every year and it is made from 100% semillon grape variety. While producing other wines of the chateau, hydraulic press is always available in the production of the wines to be ready if there is something wrong with the penuamatic press during harvest. Fermentation is performed using the innoculated ST yeast strain, which creates less volatility and enables the use of lower SO2 additions. Fifty percent of new barrels are used each year; medium toast, fine-grained from Vosges oak. Used barrels are sold to the whisky industry. Very small quantities of a dry wine have been produced since 2010. It is a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, barrel fermented in 45% new oak. Chateau Lagrange - Daphne Feng Chateau Lagrange 3rd Growth Website www.chateau-lagrange.com

Commune St Julien Ownership Suntory since 1983 Property Located the most inland of St Julien on the border of the Haut Medoc appellation. It is 2kn from the Gironde estuary but on the highest point in St Julien. Vineyard Profile 118hA single plot is the largest cru classe block in Medoc; Consists of 2 gravel hills stretching north-south with an attitude of 24M; highest point in St Julien. Soils are mostly: gravel, clay, sand, and colluvium. Most Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is planted on the best sites the gravel slopes Chateau conducted an analysis of the soil in 2012 and were able to fine tune vinification plot by plot. New plantings are high density (7-8000 vines/hA vs 10,000 vines/hA) Have also tried magnetic reflection to fund all underground water. Average vineyard age is 40yr but the structure is unusual. Only 57hA under vine when Suntory purchased in 1983, more than half were in very poor conditions. Marcel Ducasse was hired (he has since retired) to replant 60hA in 2yr which would not be possible today. Now, 50% of the vines are 45-65yr and 50% are 25-30yr. Nothing has been done in between. Varietals Reds planted to 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot; Whites planted to 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sauvignon Gris, 20% Semillon. Since the 80’s Petit Verdot has been a signature at Lagrange. The best Merlot is planted southwest on clay soils. There is not a lot of limestone, a little bit deep underground but mainly the soils listed above. In 1980s Suntory changed the proportion of CS and PV to Merlot by including more in the replantings. Wines Vinifies all 100 plots separately in 100 different tanks. In 2009 used an optical sorting line but the machine was too precise in both 09 & 10. Happier when vintage character of 11, 12, 13 challenged them with botrytis on many CS. In 2013, had to monitor bunches every 12hr for signs of botrytis. Now all grapes are optically sorted no matter which wine (Grand Vins or second label) they go into. Not organic or biodynamic but conducted biodynamic trials since 2009 on 4hA. Trials were not successful. Reduction in cryptogenic diseases but sensory qualities not good enough for the Grand Vin. Some of the biodynamic trial plots vinified in second label. Can pick 160tons of grapes per day as have in house staff of 200 for picking. Destem, send to optical sorting line, crusher, fermenter.

Have up to 300 barrels of pressed wine. Maceration is 3wk in tank, 2.5mo for fermentation; coinoculation saves 1mo of time. Used to have MLF in barrel but now simultaneous ferment in tank; wines are then transferred to barrels quite early mostly to prevent Brett. 4-5 Egg whites per barrel. Yields in 2014 were 43hl/hA vs 2010 48hl/hA of very small berries Grand Vins aged 20mo in oak, 60% new with racking every 3months. Med toast from 6-7 cooperages. Blending early in February after vintage. Created the second label, Fiefs de Lagrange, in 1984 after replanting. Idea behind the second label was to select the young vines. 13months ages in oak before bottling; 25% new. Renew 1/3 of barrels every year; old barrels used by Suntory to age whiskey Environment Though the Chateau continues to experiment with biodynamics the quality is not high enough for inclusion into the Grand Vins, however, they have made strides elsewhere. One of the first wineries to compost all green waste. 2008: 100% natural manure. 2007: Coinoculation helps reduce consumption of energy related to fermentation. MLF is induced 2days after alcoholic fermentation begins Asked cooperages to supply barrels without packaging, also reduced tin in capsules, and reduced carbon footprint of tractors. In terms of trying new things, after many experiments, they have focused most of their efforts to innovate on fruit selection and recipe in tank. Chateau Lynch-Moussas - Justin Martindale It was a pleasure to be welcomed so warmly by Phillipe Castéja and shown around this beautiful 5th growth estate. The property, situated at the top of the modest hill in Pauillac, was established at the end of the 16th century and included what is now the neighbouring 5th growth Ch. Lynch Bages, which remained part of the estate until 1828. Today there are 60ha of vines and the Chateau’s impressive modernisation programme was completed two years ago, after extensively replanting the vineyards throughout the 1970s and 80s. The vineyards now consist of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, with no other varieties planted. In the cellar the grand vin is aged in 60% new oak, and 40% old oak and matures for 16 months before bottling, in medium toast barrels sourced from 7 different coopers. The approach to oak ageing here is to polymerise the anthocyanins and tannins, giving natural clarification and elegance to the wine. Fining is done in tank ‘to polish the wine’ with egg

whites, but in the future they would consider using plant based agents as an alternative. 600 bottles a year are set aside for tastings at the chateau. It was interesting to hear Lynch-Moussas’s approach to viticulture. All grapes are 100% handpicked and only the berries are used. Unripe grapes are pruned at veraison and they will green harvest in July if necessary. Some of the leaves on the vine will produce sugars in the growing season, but others will only contribute in November; these are not needed and so are removed. The real highlight of this visit was listening to Phillipe’s thoughts on the ‘Place de Bordeaux’ and the 1855 classifications. 95% of cru classes are sold through the place, generally en primeur. Originally this was designed to ease cash flow when times were tough and would pay for activities such as pruning and bottling. Phillipe still believes that ‘le place’ is the best way to sell Bordeaux wines and that the chateaux reap real benefits from it for little more than ‘the cost of a lunch.’ The chateau also has a fairly level-headed approach to en primeur and Phillipe welcomes the role that critics play in the market, believing that they are important and ultimately raise the overall quality of the wines. He also highlighted the importance of currency exchanges, and with the yen, the pound and the US dollar all significantly up is predicting a 10% rise in prices this year. With the well documented rise of new markets, and the strength of established markets like the USA, Phillipe believes business in Bordeaux will be good for at least the next 25 years. On the 1855 classifications, ‘classifications are a picture of the past’, but he does believe that as the first historic estates, the first growths are correct to stand apart from the rest. However he also highlighted the importance of the market creating its own classifications, and the fight that all the chateaux in the region go through to promote their wines each year. The visit ended with a tasting of two vintages of Lynch-Moussas: 2004 and 2014. The 2004 was a very fresh and floral style, still young and with plenty of life ahead. The nose displayed a really perfumed cassis aroma with toasty oaky notes. The 2014 was very good – a very together and fruit forward style with fine grained tannins and very harmonious for such a young wine. Thank you to Phillipe and the rest of the staff at Lynch-Moussas for a fascinating and educational visit. Chateau Lynch-Moussas - Stuart Fyfe Chateau Lynch Moussas is a 5th growth in 1885 classification located in Pauillac. The estate was bought by Castéja family in 1971. At that time vineyards had been seriously neglected, between 1971 and 1981 they under took a major programme of work, replanting 45 hectares of the vineyard. Today the estate is run by Philippe Castéja, president of the Conseil des Grands Crus, who very kindly showed us around the property. The vineyards cover 60 hectares are made up of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. In 2007 the Chateau hired Denis Dubourdieu to help remove plots that were not making the desired quality. In July bunches are removed that are too close together to reduce the risk of rot. No leaf pulling is done only the lateral shoots are removed. Philippe Castéja explained that the leaves are still of benefit to the vine after the grapes have been harvested so he does

not want to take some out during the growing season. At the beginning of the summer they take notes on how each vineyard plot is developing. In September they taste the grapes from each plot and start to score them, this helps in making decisions such as when to pick. In the winery there is one tank for each plot, so they can each be vivified separately and continue scoring each plot as they ferment. This process allows the Chateau to build up a detailed analysis of each plot over the year before selecting it for either the grand vin or the second wine. Before fermentation the grapes undergo 3-4 days of cold soak, are then fermented between 25oc – 30oc and then get 3-4 weeks post fermentation maceration to extract the last to the colour and tannin form the cap. The wine is aged for 16 month in oak barrels, 60% are new and with a medium toast. The winemaker is very careful about the number of treatments he uses; the wines are fined and not filtered. At the moment egg white is used as the fining agent but they will change to plant based fining agent, due to concerns about egg whites causing allergic reactions to some consumers. They use fining to polish the wine and just to remove larger tannins. They do not use any filtration as they feel it removes flavour and you don’t have complete control on what is being filtered from the wine. After the tour we were privileged to be able to try the 2014 and 2004 vintages. The 2014 has a concentrated black cherry and bramble flavour. The tannins where high and ripe, with no green or stalky element to the wine. The 2004 was an excellent example of a Paulliac, the alcohol and acidity were well balanced, with fine grained tannins that are now well integrated into the wine. The 2004 has developed classic Medoc flavours of cassis, leather and tobacco. Seminar ‘Grands Crus Classes Trade’ - Margaret Campbell It was a great pleasure to here the politic and insightful Philippe Casteja speak about the trade of the Grand Cru Classe wine. General facts were given to set the scene then further discussion of the reality of how wine and money move through the system were addressed. This was followed by a discussion of the current state of En Primeur and the hot topics of fraud and foreign investment. Throughout the discussion some threats were identified, both stated and implied. We finished with our eye on the impending campaign. Mr. Casteja captured the reality of this unique system and framed it to apply to the Grand Cru Classe’s group thoughts and concerns. The discussion began with an overview of facts. 95% of GGC are sold through La Place, then merchants sell globally. The UK in particular are ‘true merchants’ reselling 40% of their purchases into another market. En Primeur came into it’s own after the economic crisis in the period following the second World War. Payments on wine were apportion in thirds to help fund chateaux through the winemaking process. 1/3 was paid before Christmas to pay for the harvest and to get the winemaking process started. 1/3 was paid in the summer after the harvest to cover the concurrent pruning and bottling. 1/3 was paid upon release. The use of brokers introduced reliable payment for the Chateau and supplied an external infrastructure of sales, deliver, and invoicing. These are skills a Chateaux may not posses themselves as a producer. The current state of the Grand Cru Classe and En Primeur was discussed next. La Tour was addressed right away. Mr. Casteja described that by stepping away for En Primeur and

holding onto their wines for 3-4 years they incur a 3-4% cost. The profit opportunity makes up for this expense. The opportunity cost is losing the spotlight that the En Primeur fervor creates. En Primeur was also highlighted as a mechanism for increasing the quality of wine being made in Bordeaux, though some have argued that wine styles have been altered to show better to the masses at a young age. By giving critics an easily accessible, easily scheduled, and important stage to shine on they develop a stronger bond to the region and their attention demands higher quality of the producers. Also, because the wine has been purchased and is now ‘owed’ to specific consumers the wine must be made for them - a specific and focusing reason instead of an yet undefined end. The last point addressed for the current state of the Grand Cru Classe was the need to focus today on creating Bordeaux’s reputation in the future. The Grand Cru Classe rely on an irreplaceable history and it’s focus on continued innovation. It is felt that quality at this very moment is needed to make the wines really shine, this will continue Bordeaux’s reputation forward. He said they needed to be made ‘unforgettable’ in this period to keep the legacy afloat. He feels the wines and demand will be consumed and held in high esteem easily for the next 25 years but wants to focus beyond. Hot topics were brief, the bases were covered. Fraud was somewhat briefly addressed as ‘There are crooks everywhere.’ Foreign investors were embraced as a way to bring even more fresh ideas into Bordeaux. It was recognized as a reality that is the way it is and cannot be fought, but instead embraced. The threat to Bordeaux became clear as underlying themes emerged throughout the talk. Is Bordeaux to centric? Are they unable to realize threats through a false sense of security? Is the US truly ‘ready to buy’ again? There was a definite concern around the concept of moving possible moves away from En Primeur. In the end Mr. Casteja feel positive headed toward the current campaign for En Primeur. The wines are fresh and balanced and the currency exchange rate of a suppressed Euro will help in resetting price expectations to the US. The Yen and Pound are also strong headed into the campaign. A few weeks, and all will be revealed! Seminar ‘1855 Classification’ - Fanny Darrieussecq 95% of production of Bordeaux GCC is sold through Bordeaux shippers, called Négociants. Part of it is sold in advance a system called “en Primeur”. After WWII selling the wine “En Primeur” helped bring ready cash to the chateaux. The wine was (and still is) paid in thirds. First part in Spring following the vintage for paying work in the vineyard, Second part in Autumn for paying harvesting staff, third part in winter for paying labelling, etc. This system continues today, although the chateaux do not need the money as much anymore. Ansewering the question about Château Latour situation, PC explained Latour still sell through shippers, it just doesn’t release en primeur. Why? 1% capital cost per year to keep wine back, and prices can appreciate by 20-30%, so releasing 3 or 4 years after production will cost 3-4% in total capital, and can result in a much greater return. However, despite this, PC thinks Latour will return to the “En Primeur” system in the long term.

A third party is the Courtiers. They help the estates find the right price and present the wines to the shipper: they act between the estate and the shipper to pass on less palatable information and avoid direct confrontation. They are still a key part of the system and are paid 2% on every transaction On good vintages about 200 Châteaux will sell “En Primeur”. People buy in advance to make sure they’ll get the wine when the vintage is excellent. Also they know the price will increase in 3 years (time before releasing). On normal vintages between 90 and 110 châteaux (50 médoc, 20 Saint Emilion, 15 Pomerol, 15 Pessac-Léognan, 10 Sauternes) will be able to sell “En Primeur”. Merchants doesn’t want to take the risk of purchasing wines they’ll not be able to sell or which are going to loose value). 2014 Pricing? Exchange rate is in favour of export market this year. The Euro is 20% stronger in 2014 than 2013. PC would not be surprised by a 10% increase of prices in 2014 compared with 2013 which in any case for most of Wine Merchant around the world would mean cheaper than 2013 thanks to Exchange rate. Bordeaux Grands Crus Classés global markets: UK is a historical market for Bordeaux wines. More than a simple market UK is also a merchant’s market. About 40% of UK purchases are redistributed overseas. Taking BBR as an example, you now have BBR Hong Kong, BBR Tokyo, BBR Singapour. No BBR US, it’s banned from operating in USA because of the 3 tiers system). The chateaux are very interested in the UK market, but also the American and Canadian markets. Regarding China, Bordeaux wines experimented the same experience as in Tokyo 20 years earlier or any new Big market. Chinese people saw the increasing value of the wine and considered it as any commodity so they start to buy wine like made. The problem was that they had no established routes to market or infrastructure to distribute the wines, so they end up sitting on stock. Then they stop to import wine and start to really develop and build distribution channels in order to get rid of the stock. After this period of structuring the market they start to buy again. What is the place of Bordeaux in the global market today? PC seems very optimistic. For him, Bordeaux is the largest producing area in the world with 120.000 Ha of vine. The Grands Crus Classés remain the benchmark against which other wines are measured. Also Bordeaux It is the cradle of new winemaking methods like temperature control, thermo vinification. It’s where treatment against phylloxera was discovered and where Oenology was first recognized as a Science (First Oenology University). It’s also pioneer in architecture in the vineyard and attracts the greatest Architects (e.g. Foster at Château Margaux). “This area has been a centre for creating new ideas” which continues today. Inheritance problems in Bordeaux:

PC believes in an open market. He is sorry inheritance tax is so high in France, but that’s the law. He welcomes international buyers for the 1855 chateaux – it has always brought new blood, new ideas. “You must move with the times or you’re nothing.” The 1855 classification system: A classification system is “a picture of the past”. This applies to any classification system. It means you have the potential to be good, but it is not a guarantee. Re-classification is done by the market every year through pricing. “It is the demand that makes the classification system work.” Chateau Beychevelle - Diego Bonnel and Mei Hong General figures. The château currently has 92 ha, of which 14 ha correspond to Haut Médoc appellation; 78 ha are in appellation Saint Julien. Soils are mainly gravel and sand. 34 ha are being handled in an organic way. Not officially certified since a minimum production level is needed. ISO 14001 certified. Carbon footprint is dealt with: no In 2014, less than 400.000 bottles were produced; the objective is to produce 500.000 bottles. Current shareholders of the Château: Grands Millésimes de France （50% Suntory－owner of Château Lagrange and 50% Groupe Castel） The château receives 10 to 15.000 visitors a year. Technical Director/Winemaker: Romain Ducolomb ([email protected]) Range. The château offers three wines: •

Amiral: 2nd wine;

•

Beychevelle: grand vin;

•

Brulières: Haut Médoc appellation.

Viticulture.

• Rootstocks 114 and Riparia are mainly used for the grand vin while Gravesac is used for Brulières; more vigorous rootstock is needed for these wines; •

Average age of vines: 28 years

•

Vine density varies according to the type of wine:

Wine Vine density (vines/ha) Grand Vin

8.500

Amiral 7.000 Brulières

6.500

Winemaking. • 3-4 days cold maceration; low SO2 levels are used; after 18 months ageing, there is no difference in the wines; • fermentation temperature: 30ºC; punch down method and pumping over used for extraction; fermentation lasts a maximum of 10 days; • commercial yeasts are used: F33 and F15 plus another one that will be added in the future; MLF inoculation has not worked; • wines are put in oak barrels in October for 5 months; in January, the final blend is made; • all plots are vinified separately; for that, new facilities were built: vat room and barrel room. 60 stainless steel tanks with smaller capacities. They have all a double layer which insulates the wines. 1 room – 1 vintage. •

6 main coopers are used, no ine dominates – Bugey, Du Colomb, Leflaive, Confuron.

Wines tasted. Wine Comments 2014 – Grand Vin

In 2014, there was an unusual proportion of Merlot.

In the 2014 Grand Vin, the nose is fruity, with notes of cedar and black berry. Fine tannins from the grape are present, which have the potential to support the tannins from the barrel and age well. Normally, the wines are aged in 50% new oak, but for the purpose of the en primeur tasting, the samples are put in 100% new oak; MLF is made in barrel to better prepare the wines for the en primeur tasting. 2013 – Grand Vin 55% CS, 36% M, 9% PV. There was no CF; it was kept for Amiral. Bordeaux is not the ideal place for CF, but Tuscany is. Difficult vintage, with a small crop. Yield was only 28 hl/ha. Grey rot arrived and a careful selection was necessary. 2 teams of harvesters were hired. Average production: only 20.000 cases. Crop was down by 30% and Grand Vin production was down around 50%. The idea was to preserve the reputation of the château. In the current wine, there are no green or botrytis aromas and tannins are pretty ripe. 12 months on oak, 50% new. Slightly drying tannins. Need time. 13% abv. This wine left oak in January 2015. 50% MLF in barrel. It will be bottled soon.

2005 – Grand Vin

50% new oak – 50% one wine. 13%.

Round tannins, leather, fine, elegant well integrated tannins. Very soft and velvety in the palate. Still has great potential. Amiral 2008 On the nose, ripe green pepper and pencil-shaving aromas dominate. On the palate, very lively acidity and fine-grained tannins balance the fruit and the moderate alcohol level. The wine is classic, taut and racy. 2000 – Grand Vin Cedar wood with a hint of animal note and touch of capsicum, ripe, velvety, well integrated tannins. Rather medium length. Medium acidity, alcohol and tannins. 1996 – Grand Vin (Tasted Blind) Best vintage of the 1990s. Good freshness and mouth-watering acidity. Ripe, sweet tannins. The mid-palate is voluminous and juicy. The style is rather mineral, linear and the persistent finish was marked by slightly bitter stoniness. At peak but can hold. 1966 – Grand Vin (Tasted Blind) Served in magnum. Complex nose with black pepper, red fruit, mingled with tertiary aromas of tobacco, dry mushroom, and leather. Good freshness. Still alive and kicking. While the finish was marked slightly by certain bitter metallic notes, it was very complex, focused and long. Incredible performance for a wine of 50 years old. 1955 – Grand Vin (Tasted Blind) Very complex. Eucalyptus, tobacco, cedar, sweet spices. Light color, tannins and body. Leather, pencil shavings, coffee, tobacco, mineral notes. Rather short in the palate. Chateau Pontet-Canet - Julian Talaveron This writing that we present is to give thanks to the Château Pontet-Canet, and specifically to Mr. Jean-Michel Comme that he attended so kindly, and with so much passion that it made it one of the best visits we had during our tour in Bordeaux. In reference to the visit, something which is inevitable to mention is that we are talking about the only Château of the Grand Cru Classé Classification of 1855 currently working in Biodynamic, and it is willing to pay the high price that sometimes entails. But before we dive on this experience, will talk about their wines, because they are really magnificent. We were lucky to taste several wines in comparative tasting of vintages 2010 vs 2011, and one of them was the Château Pontet Canet 2010, showing up as one of the most large and majestic wines we tasted in our trip in Bordeaux. Not only had we thought, for example here we have the opinion of Pedro Ballesteros MW on Ch Pontet Canet 2010: “Ch. Pontet-Canet 2010 (19.5/20) in my opinion, the wine of the vintage. Attack on the nose as collected, little open, already elegant, palate with aromatic precision and depth. High

density, fine tannin is felt, all harmony, and ends in precious parsimony. Big, big drink for decades.” This confirms the uniqueness of this Chateau. What was very clear, before visiting the winery, they produce wines that do not leave indifferent, wines show a great personality, and comments that emerged were about excellence, and but for some people was difficult to understanding as well. All these opinions and insights were confirmed after the meeting and talk with Mr JeanMichel Comme, he told to us many things like. With a philosophy and a clear commitment to follow the prescriptions of Biodynamic since 2007, working in the vineyard with their own animals, with the certification in Organic and Biodynamic, because they want to show that they are honest with what they do, and accept the rules of that, and don't talk about as much, and willing to pay the price for it. Not everything is always wonderful in this work and in 2007, like he was explaining, “we had to use pesticides, and we hurt much, because we were at the end of our conversion into organic and had to start all over again.” Grape variety it is the expression of Terroir, and the quality of the soil is going to mark the quality because we want to show something special, because we want to be ambitious and make a special wine. To do this we have to understand our plants, treat them as our children and help them grow, protect them and lead them, educate to make the best of each with their differences, since each is different. When a disease reaches the vineyards is too late, the disease is only a response to an end point. When you have to deal with a disease it is necessary to analyze because there is no disease that appears from nowhere, is a response to a situation, and have to see why of this response, and also if we have any responsibility about it. This is my idea, my philosophy, and I know it is not that of the majority of the area. My position it is the vineyard, be concentrated on the vineyard, analyze everything that happens and to the true situation of the vineyard. This requires a high dedication, sometimes hard, but the requirement should be high so if you want to offer a special wine. The word sustainability does not mean anything, we try to respect our environment , our winery, our people, don’t talk as much about the Biodynamic treatments and try focus our energy to achieve a lasting and honest working system. In fact do not consider work in Organic & Biodynamic is more expensive, for us, it is not a single economic cost, for example is also a cost of impact throughout the property if pesticides are used, this is something that we do not contemplate, the idea is clear and always will be a high cost.

If we consider wine as something special, we want to treat everything related with the wine like something special, from the soil, to the vineyard and winery work. If we consider only wine as a liquid pleasant as source of power perhaps don't need to bother so much. Chateau Pichon Longueville - Fernando Mora One of the top hits in our Bordeaux adventure was visiting one of the considered “super seconds”. The definition of this winery is complexity, elegance and state of the art. Originally developed by Baron Joseph de Pichon Longueville and later split into 2 parts (Château Pichon Longueville and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande). We visited Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande now owned and managed by family Rouzau (Roederer), a Chapagne family increasing if possible a bit more the glamour of this Château. We arrived and we felt impressed by stunning towers and gardens but also by the skyline (with the famous Latour tower). Mainly all vineyards are located in Pauillac (86 Ha) but 11 Ha are located in neighbourhood St-Julien (following rules of Pauillac AOC wine from this area can´t be blended). Blend was composed by Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and traditionally it included an unusual Petit Verdot about 8%. An ambitious replanting program after a concise edaphology study is decreasing Petit Verdot presence because of variability across vintages. Also high doses of Merlot, about a 35% are often used, increasing drinkability and balancing tannin structure of Cabernet Sauvignon. In our days its vineyard structure is about 61% Cabernet Sauvignon 32 % Merlot 4 % Cabernet Franc 3 % Petit Verdot. 6 hectares from the 89 total vineyard are grown biodynamically from 2008, trying to find a more sustainable way to manage the vineyards, but as the technical manager told, it is too soon to state any conclusions. Wines are really soft but with high structure, Merlot play its role. Also alcohol levels has been maintained lower than in other more “international” châteaux looking fro drinkability.

Visit to the winery was impressive with incredible Nicolas Glumineau (Manager & Winemaker), it was more similar to a designed loft than a work place. After handpicking in small boxes a 100% artificial vision shorting system was used after a full technology destemmer, followed by a crusher pouring must in small mobile tank to distribute by gravity to each of the small stainless steel tanks, to ferment by plot. Precision was the word used by Mr Glumineau to define its winemaking techniques. It was first chateau not focused in showing us their barrel room but talking more about grapes and winemaking. We had an amazing lunch starting with a Roederer Brut followed by The Réserve de la Comtesse wine, its second label representing about 40% of total Château production followed by the “Grand vin” Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. At the end of the meal we could taste the new 2014 vintage one week before “en primeur” events.

A historical Château, owned by a fine wine traditional family, with a great Manager and winemaker and with a state of the art winery (focused in the best fruit and the most carefully handling) together with the detail obsession of Champagne houses and the real Pauillac terroir, creates a unique Grand Cru Classe. Chateau Pichon Longueville - Shelly Lee The general manager, Mr. Nicolas GLUMINEAU, gave us an explanation about this new cuverie and took a look on the Terroir. Pichon Longueville has the best view on the river from the left bank. On the left bank the great terroir always have view over the river. The vineyard of Pichon Longueville has been planted in mid 17th century. Two century after, meaning in 1850, five years before the classification. The father, Baron Joseph de Pichon Longueville decided to share the vinyard into two parts between his two sons and three daughters. Since 1850, only 4 family own this estate. And since 2006, the Champagne Louis Roderer own Pichon Longueville. Nicolas mentioned” We always say the great wines are made in the vineyard. It’s probably 70-80% of our job”. The first thing they have done arriving here is to make a geological map of the vineyard that have never been done before. In order to replant all the vineyards in the next 25-30 years, adapting the roots and the grape to the kind of soil they have. This is the very basis of everything. But in the past the owner will only replace the dead vines. The chateaux works differently today because it wants to renew everything in the vineyard. It wants the vineyard to be very homorganic. In each plot, they have very homorganic vines in terms of maturity, in terms of quality. That’s why since 2008, they took out 2-3000 vines a year. And it’s a very strategic choice. Everything made today is for next 12-15 years. The second investment done in the chateaux is to build a new cuverie, a new cellar. Everything there is new. Question: What kind of tool you use for your geographic map? Answer: We did it physically. We did until 1 metre deep and we can separate three different layers: first 30 center meters, then 30-60 and 60-100 center meters. We have big gravel soils, sand and a bit of clay in the soil. It can feed the vine in terms of water in the warm year. It’s very important. Gravel means the soil is very draining, very dry and it’s very good for Cabernet Sauvignon (to anticipate the maturation cycle, to concentrate its fruit of the grape). It’s very important for the Cab because it’s 60% of the vineyard. And also Cab ripe very late in the season so we have to avoid the rain of late October or early November. If you can’t anticipate the maturation, you can’t the maturation of the tannins because of the rot, cold weather. So Cab is very well-adapted in gravel while Merlot is better in clay or other humid soils. Question: How deep are the roots? Answer: It depends. Most of the time it’s 1.5-3.0 meters but some are deeper like 5-6 meters. Since 2013 vintage, one of the revolutions is to use boxes to make the harvest. There are two cold rooms, not to make cold pre-fermentation or maceration but just to store the grapes. The purpose is to disconnect the harvest and sorting, meaning that on this everyday the harvest can be done very quickly because of the rot, because of water. But it is important to sort everything and to fill the different tank. After storing the berries, let them dry and then take time to sort everything and to work very correctly. Another point is to fill different

tanks. There are different volumes : 50, 70, 85, 120, 150 hectoliters tanks. Thus, they choose the way they want to vinify each plot. Whole bunch grapes were chilled at 7 ℃ with no SO2 added in the cold rooms. The Optical Sorting System which is not that essential every year but it’s good for marketing. It was very efficient for two years since 2008 (2011, 2013). 2013 for sure is very tricky to make because of the frosts as because of veraison for 2011. At the end of the sorting chain, there are mini vats/tanks which can drive the grapes to the fermentation tank through gravity to minimize the intervention, keeping the balance and precision of the aromatic structure of the juice. Total of 62 tanks (240 hectoliters vats) for almost 75 plots. With the new facilities, the extraction is very easy so the grapes have to be picked when they are absolutely ripe (the phenolic ripeness). Otherwise increase the risk of bitterness and greenness to the wine. The cellar master used to make 2-3 pump-over ten minutes long every day. Now, they try 6-8 minutes for the first one and 8-10 and taste the wine if they need the third pump-over and the duration of it. The most important thing is “balance” for the estate. The balance between the tannin structure, flesh, the aromatic complexity of the juice. The first vintage made of the new cuverie was 2013, which was a very tricking vintage (a lot of water, a lot of rots). No Merlot is used. The estate made 100% Cab Pichon Longueville and all the other grapes are all in the second labels. The wines are racked in the barrels less than usual. And use less new oak. (’94 Lafitte was the last wine made from 100% Cabs in Bordeaux). The flowering condition was so bad so the yields for Merlot was so low (e.g. 6-8 hl/ha). Then after late September, early October were terrific warm nights, rain days. The final yields we made for 2013 was 13 hl/ha and this year(2014) is 40 hl/ha.

Pichon Longueville always makes the elegant wine in Paulliac. It’s the DNA of this estate. They also try to keep 6-7% of Cabernet Franc and 4-5% Petit Verdot in the vineyard. In 2014, all the CF and PV are all in the first label. They don’t want to plant more PV because it’s hard to grow in the vineyards and the quality is not that consistent. It has to be exactly right. If it’s overripe, it cannot be used in the blend. The goal of grape proportion in 2020-2025 is 65% CS, 25% Merlot and 10% CF+PV. No skin contact. No simultaneous malolactic fermentation. The yeasts (522, AV3) are added before fermentation and before the MLF, the bacteria(CH16, F5) was added, but separately. The rootstocks have been mainly used are 10114, sometimes Riperia, and very few 3309. The choice is made depends on the richness of soil and the ability of the roots to support the dryness. The Riparia is very sensitive about dryness and the estate has very draining and dry soils. 101-14 can plant in big gravel, it’s good for almost every grape (CS, CF, PV). 101-14 controls the vigor well. For ageing, it’s 10-12 months for reserve and 16-18 months for first label. 25% new oak for the second label and maximum 60% for the first label. The lunch was started with 2006 Louis Roederer Brut Nature Champagn (with zero dosage). We have tried 2014 wines for both first and second labels followed by order vintage of 1996 (elegant, harmonious with polished tannins), 2003 Pichon Longueville(vibrant, wellstraucture with fine-grained tannins) and 2006 Reserve de la Comtesse.

Chateau Lascombes - Xiahoan Zhang and Shelby Perkins As we arrived at Chateau Lascombes, we were met by General Manager Dominique Befve our host for the afternoon. Dominique walked us to the winery and explained that Alexis Lichine purchased the property in 1952 and overhauled its vineyards and winery, and more recently MACSF (a medical insurance company) purchased the property from Colony Capital (an American investment fund) in 2011. Dominique took charge of Chateau Lascombes in 2001 after a working as Technical Manager at Lafite-Rothschild and Duhart-Milon, followed by work at Chateau L’Evangile in Pomerol. Upon arrival at Lascombes, Dominique restructured the vineyard management – immediately studying and mapping soils and subsoils in 2001 – and pulling 12 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon vines that required a better match to clay soils and were subsequently planted to Merlot. Dominique also restructured the winemaking methodology, bringing in more modern equipment and a five-level gravity system to the winery CH. LASCOMBES AT A GLANCE General Manager - Dominique Befve - Area - 118 hectares (291 acres), 6 of which is in the Haut Medoc - Soils - Gravelly mound – planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot - Clay gravel – planted to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - Clay-limestone – planted to Merlot - Plantings - 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petite Verdot - Production - 300,000 bottles Chateau Lascombes – 100% new barrel - 150,000 bottles Chevalier de Lascombes – once used barrels (20 months) - 20,000 bottles of Haut-Medoc - 36 employees

The group stood on the crush pad as Dominique explained harvest operations and winemaking protocol. All grapes are harvested plot by plot and are loaded into small baskets. At the crushpad, grapes are sorted by hand on a table, de-stemmed, but not crushed before loading into temperature-controlled fermentation tanks. The grapes are held at 6-8 degrees for an 8-10-day cold soak (pre-fermentation maceration) to degrade skin and extract anthocyanin and tannin. The multiple stainless steel and oak vats allow for plot and variety divisions in fermentation, which tends to last 1 week and peaks at 26-28 degrees C. Wines are then macerated post-fermentation for 2 to 3 weeks for additional color and tannin extraction, spending a total of 5-6 weeks in tank total before pressing. All of the press wine goes into the first or second label. “Everything in the winery is natural”, states Dominique. Barrel Storage

Dominique would not explain the electric blue lighting in the barrel cellar, only noting that it was used for discos and dance parties. Wines are barreled down after post-fermentation maceration is concluded, usually in mid-November. The first wine is aged in 80-100% new French barrels for 18-20 months. The second wine is aged in once-used barrels. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel and the room temperature is controlled (raised to 19-20 degrees C) to ensure that temperatures are optimal for ML completion – the rest of the year the temperatures are not controlled. In lieu of battonage, an Oxoline barrel system is used to re-suspend and mix lees without unnecessary oxygen ingress, effectively building fullness and roundness to the body of the Lascombes wines. Between November and March the lees are stirred twice, and barrels are only opened for 2 to 4 toppings, depending on the humidity level of the season. The wine is aged on its lees until the end of March. In April, the blending begins with a visit from consulting winemaker Michel Rolland for initial blending decisions. Several cooperages are utilized, including Radoux, Seguin Moreau, Sylvain, and Boutes. At beginning of September, the prior year’s wine is moved into a second cellar, opening the first cellar up to receive wines from the current year’s harvest. In the second cellar, wine is racked every 6 months, pushed with inert gas. Dominique is adamant that oxygen is not good for the tannins, and seeks to limit his racking activities as much as possible. He also believes that chateaus are increasingly proactively limiting oxygen exposure in their wines. An MW student asked whether this treatment was counter to Michel Rolland’s reputation for the use of micro-oxygenation. Dominique remarked: “In my 16-17 years of working with Michel Rolland, I have never (I don’t speak never) seen him use micro-oxygenation – you must have seen the film Mondovino. When I first met him at Chateau L’Evangile – [he said to me:] don’t speak about micro-oxygenation when you have great terroir.” Michel Rolland is consulting winemaker at Chateau Lascombes, and Dominique has worked with him since 1998. On the way out of the second barrel room, a new Barilav (Lamouroux) barrel washing machine was proudly displayed. Dominique noted its efficiency: it washes six barrels at once with hot water and steam. Vineyard In the vineyard adjacent to the winery, Dominique introduced us to the “typical gravels of the Medoc” which includes stones, sand, and 2-3% clay – noting that the best terroir of the Cru Classe have this combination. The parcel we stood in was generally a parcel of 50 yearold Cabernet Sauvignon vines, but each year some vines are replaced as needed. The objective of pruning, in Dominique’s opinion, is to have the grapes spaced on the vine for equal sun and air movement. There are 9000 plants per hectare at Chateau Lascombes and the objective is to produce 35-40 hectoliters by hectare (Bordeaux limit is 55). Green harvesting is utilized religiously to concentrate fruit intensity in the wines. The farming philosophy leans towards low-input farming, but organic is utilized fertilizer when needed. Dominique proffers that he believes that vines should be self-sufficient. Prunings are crushed and put back into soil – effectively adding 2 kg/hectare of organic material every year. In winter, the grass cover is plowed under to boost nitrogen and organic materials, and no herbicides are used. Fungicides are used on the property, but Bordeaux mixture is strictly limited because Dominique finds that it is not good for the soil. Only one spraying of 5 kilograms of Bordeaux mixture is used every year. Soil analyses are run every 5 years to check on soil health and pH (pH is about 6.5).

A mildew monitoring system (Purelogic) is utilized to know when to optimize spraying just before wet or damp conditions. Pheromone traps are also utilized in the vineyard to manage butterfly pests. The traps confuse the butterflies and reduce their attack on grapes, often resulting in damage and botrytis. About 800-1000 traps are changed every year, costing about 250 euros per hectare. While this method is thought to be more expensive than spray (especially due to labor cost), it is also thought to be more more natural and is 95% effective. The more traps an appellation puts out as a region, the more likely that butterflies will go elsewhere. Tasting Back in the marbled hall of the Chateau – Dominique pointed out the different soils of the Chateau on a map, first noting the gravels where Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Verdot are typically planted to overcome challenges of ripeness and maturity. The limestone, similar to that of St. Emilion, is used only for Merlot where it thrives with consistent access to water, and boosts is minerality and complexity. Dominique believes that terroir is a combination of soil, subsoil, climate, and technique, noting: “I don’t like to work, rather have nature work for me.” The following 2014 blending components presented for tasting: 1. Merlot on Gravels and Limestone (2-cm-1m clay also in area) (right hand) – darker wine, denser dark berry fruit, freshness – more water in the limestone 2. Merlot on Gravels and Clay (~10%) (left hand) – more minerality and coarser tannin and more present structure on the palate 3. Cabernet Sauvignon on Gravel for the first wine - fine tannin structure. 4. Petite Verdot on Gravel – spicy, dark color, ripe, coarse tannins (3-5% goes to first wine. More can result in an unbalanced wine.) 5. The Blend: – Cabernet Sauvignon 50%, Merlot 45%, Petite Verdot 5% A conversation erupted based on Dominique’s assertion that terroir is more important than variety and that “a good rapport between soil and plant will make the grape hard to identify.” A member of the MW student group queried whether our impressions of what is “Right Bank” and what is “Left Bank” are based on bad matches between soil and variety? This question was not clearly answered because a follow-on question was posited from the group: “Gravel and clay are better for Merlot in Pomerol, then why is it planted with Cabernet Sauvignon here in Margaux? The wetter soil conditions in Pomerol provide the rationale.

Another student asked whether Cabernet Sauvignon was planted indiscriminately in Bordeaux, or whether the plantings were based on soil analyses. Dominique offers that there is progress, especially due to technological advancement pushing geological study forward. Drone Dominique introduced William Metz from California, who is currently based in Switzerland and is using of drones to study terroir, geology, and vine health in 8 regions, including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Alsace, Piedmont, Austria, and Tuscany.

More specifically, William is studying the effects of soil and other conditions on vines with the use of multispectral indicators – mainly focused on leaf, sun, and water considerations. He studies the properties of soil rather than the soil itself – noting water stress and vigor are two of the easiest studies to make in a vineyard by drone. He is also using cameras to model vineyards and their canopy volume in three dimensions, which he finds to be a good metric for yield and green harvesting. He believes the drone can also be used to separate vineyard parcels into different zones for harvest, treatment, and watering areas. He also asserts that thermal imaging by drone is by far the best indicator of water stress. Yet he also admits that “a drone is just another tool.” Williams’ drone is fairly expensive at 20,000 Swiss Francs. Much of this cost is in his cameras and software – not the foam gullwing itself. “But,” William states confidently, “information is winemaking power.” Dominique wrapped up the drone discussion succinctly, stating: “precision is good wine.” The following images from the visit are displayed below: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Arrival at Ch. Lascombes Lascombes Vineyards Butterfly Pheromone Trap Blue-Lighted Barrel (aka Disco) Room Barilav Rotating Barrel Washer System Dominique Discussing Terroir 2014 Barrel Samples William Metz Displaying His Drone

Seminar ‘Terroir, viticulture and winemaking’- Atila Fiath History The oldest-known owner was Chevalier Antoine de Lascombes, born in 1625. In the XVII century, the domain was joined to that of Durfort. The counts of Durfort owned most of the land in the Guyenne province. In the XVIII century, Jean-Francois de Lascombes, a councillor at the Bordeaux Parliament, academy member and Kings prosecutor at the Admiralty, devoted his wealth to raising the quality of Lascombes’ wine. Down various branches of the family tree, Chateau Lascombes ended up the property of Mademoiselle Hue who still owned it at the time of the 1855 classification. In 1867, the estate was handed down to barriester Chaix d’Est Ange who, under Napoleon III, defended the interests of France against the Egyptian goverment in the Suez Canal dispute. Alexis Lichine purchased the property in 1952. He revived this great growth by wholly restructuring and renewing the vineyard and winemaking facilities. A persuasive, mediaoriented man, he put Chateau Lascombes back on the map, before selling it on to British brewer Bass-Charrington who already owned Alexis Lichine and Co. In 2001, the estate was acquired by Colony Capital and since 2011, it is the French mutuel MACSF that owns the chateau. Terroir Classified second growth in 1855, the Chateau Lascombes vineyard stretches over 112 hectares within the Margaux appellation and 6 hectares of Haut-Médoc. The vines, which have an average age of thirty five year, are pruned in double-Guyot. Present varietal distribution is 50 % Merlot, 45 % Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit-Verdot with vine stocks 101-14, Riparia and 3309 C. The parcels making up the property display an interesting geological variety consisting of three main categories: argillaceous limestone and argillaceous gravel suitable for growing Merlot, argillaceous gravel and gravel for Cabernet Sauvingnon and gravel for Petit Verdot. At harvest: the grape is exclusively hand-picked by some hundred people teaming within the vineyard but not before the berries have been tasted and analysed. The harvester store the bunches in small, ten-kilo crates which preserve their integrity. During the growth of the fruit, manual cultivation of the vine includes cutting off excess foliage on both sides of the vine, as well as systematic, individual crop thinning. The grape ripens better thanks to increased air circulation and sun exposure.

Winemaking Since 2001, the estate has undergone major transformations aimed at producting a flawless quality wine worthy of its second growth status.

The vats have been laid out on four levels, including one set aside for buried vats. The yield was significantly reduced. The volume of the thermoregulated vats was modified in accordance with the new, parcel-based yield. Moreover, eight of the vats are now made of French oak. The grapes are then slightly crushed and cooled in readiness for pre-fermentation maceration. This technique imparts deeper color, more stability and greater aromatic complexity. For that process, dry ice is injected so as to coincide with the sliding of the grapes into the vats. That particular phase lasts about a week at a temerature averaging 8-10 C. Alcoholic fermentation then takes place at 28 C, punctuated by light pumpings over the cap. This stage is followed by a new period of maceration at 30 C, interrupted by daily tastings, the better to gauge ideal duration. The layout of the vats now accomodates the gravity-fed transfer of the infant wine into new wood barrels (a process also known as ’devatting’). Malolactic fermentation occurs thereafter at a temperature set at 21 C. Barrel Ageing The Grand Vin, Chateau Lascombes, and its second wine, Chevalier de Lascombes, both spend four moths barrel-ageing on lees. Yeast autolysis lends fatness and roundness to the tannins. To keep the lees in suspension, the barrels are rotated on Oxoline racks. This system also helps prevent oxidation. Following the barrel-ageing on lees, gravity-fed blending (assemblage) is carried-out. Owing to the diversity of the ’terroirs’ and to parcel-based vinification, there is a wealth of complementary lots to draw from for the blending, thus resulting in a rich and complex wine. The wines of Chateau Lascombes are then aged for eighteen to twenty months in 80% new oak barrels. Every three months, racking is done by means of compressed air which saves pumping out. Before bottling, the wine is fined using the traditional egg white method. Annual production is 300 000 bottles for Chateau Lascombes and 200 000 bottles for Chevalier de Lascombes. The integrity and quality of the finished product are mastered by means of various quality control techniques, amongst wich HACCP, thereby guaranteeing consumer protection. Tasting Technical data for Chateau Lascombes 2014: i. Merlot is 50% of the blend. It was harvested between 22.9.2014 – 7.10.2014 with potential alcohol of 13.5%-15%. ii. Cabernet Sauvignon is 45% of the blend. It was harvested between 8.10.2014 – 17.10.2014 with potential alcohol of 12.5%-13.5%. iii.

Petit Verdot is 5% of the blend. It was harvested on 8.10.2014 with 15% alcohol.

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Yield was 39 hl/ha – 60% went to the Grand Vin – 90% new barrels were used.

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First de-leafing: June/July

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Bunch thinning: end of July

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Second de-leafing: end of August

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Grapes are entirely hand picked in ten-kilo crates

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Sorting before and after destemming

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Light crushing of the grapes before going into vats

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Cold maceration for around 10 days at 8 C

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Alcoholic fermentation: from September 23rd to November 6th

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Traditional vinification with a gentle pumping over every day

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Vatting duration: 30-35 days

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Running off: from October 20th to November 19th

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Malolactic fermentation in barrels: from November 2nd to December 31st

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Stirring of the lees for four months with the Oxoline rack system

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1st racking: April

Seminar ‘Terroir, viticulture and winemaking’- Eliza Kauce On Wednesday, March 25th, a group of MV students visited Château Lascombes, as part of a 3-day student trip in Bordeaux. Château Lascombes is a Second Growth winery of Margaux. Throughout the visit, the focus on the relationship between soil types and grape varieties emerged as a distinctive trait of Château Lascombes’ winemaking. The visiting group could explore this thread via multiple activities and discussions. The visit consisted of: ̶

Introductory meeting with Mr. Dominique Befve, General Manager of the winery; ̶

Visit to the vineyard and cellar; ̶

Educational tasting of different wine varieties from different soils; Meeting with a researcher currently collaborating with the winery on a project concerning soil analysis. ̶

In the introductory meeting, Mr. Befve welcomed the group and showed the premises of Château Lascombes. After the initial remarks, Mr. Befve described the history of the winery and its current activities. Château Lascombes was established in the 17th century and today it encompasses one of the largest vineyards of the 1855 Classified Growths. Its vineyard includes 112 hectares in the Margaux appellation and 6 hectares in the Haut-Médoc appellation. From all the vineyards, 50% is Merlot, 45% is Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% is Petit Verdot. Finally, since 2001 Château Lascombes is among the many wineries consulted by Michel Rolland.

During the visit to the vineyard and cellars, Mr. Befve described in depth the characteristics of Château Lascombes’ terroirs, viticulture and winemaking. As Mr. Befve indicated, the most important thing to make a good wine is to find the perfect interaction between the soil type and grape variety. On the whole, the vineyards of Château Lascombes are known to be located in one of the best parcels of the Margaux appellation. Nonetheless, it is critical for the winery to truly understand the composition of its terroirs and its evolution. This is achieved through soil analyses performed regularly. These analyses consist of drilling 3-4 holes (approximately 300 m deep) in each ha, allowing to understand soil, subsoil and variety interaction. The results of these analyses, and additional ongoing research also using drones, inform key decisions made by the winery. First of all, the soil-variety concordance influences the allocation of grape varieties to the various parcels. At Château Lascombes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot are grown in the parts of the vineyard with gravelly mound, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are grown in the parts of clay-gravel and Merlot is grown in the parts of clay-limestone. Moreover, some vines can be discarded, as it happened recently with around 3 ha of vines, where the soil was not compatible with the variety. In addition to its investments in soil research, the winery works attentively also with vines and wines. It is an established practice not to use any kind of herbicides in the vineyard, as well as all to deploy after-pruning residual as organic soil fertilizer. The careful work in the vineyard continues also in the cellar, where high-performing tools and gravity are a good help. The use of numerous stainless steel tanks and oak barrels helps to vinify differently grape varieties from different plots. The most important moment however is before filling the barrels – that is the instant in which it is decided whether the wine is going to be the Château Lascombes (the winery’s first wine) or Chavalier des Lascombes (its second). The difference between these wines is oak aging, as the Château Lascombes is aged in 100% new French oak, while Chavalier des Lascombes is aged in the oak of second passage. The tasting that followed the vineyard and cellar visit allowed the group to appreciate the differences among Château Lascombes’ wines made from different grape varieties – Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot – and from different vineyard plots. The difference between diverse soils was notable and most of the students preferred limestone rather than clay-limestone or clay-gravel examples. Mr. Befve explained that in the blind tastings it is the choice of soil that lets variety express itself and be recognizable. The tasting finished with the blend of the winery that is made of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. All wines showed good juiciness and concentration, as well as good acidity and great tannins. Finally, the last activity of the day allowed the group to understand how Château Lascombes, despite the many accolades received to date and its already sophisticated winemaking methods, is eager to continuously enhance its knowledge and capabilities. After the tasting, students were introduced to a Switzerland-based American researcher, who works with drones to analyse the terroirs more accurately. It was explained to the group how it is possible to use drones not only to map the area but also, among others, to understand the evolution of vine roots, analyse the strengths of the vines and understand the structure and water capacity of the soil. This kind of research with drones is carried out in 7 different wine regions, such as Burgundy, Alsace, Piedmont, Tuscany and different regions in Austria. This proves how profound geology studies can improve winemaking all over the world.

Overall, visiting Château Lascombes was an interesting experience to all of the students, not only because of Mr. Befve’s charismatic attitude and insightful explanations, but also because of the possibility to enter in the vineyard and discover the terroir of Bordeaux in its smallest details. Chateau Rauzan Segla - Geoffrey Moss Hosts: Sandrine Begaud, Alice Biscarrat, and Nicolas Audebert Rauzon-Segla – purchased by Chanel in 1994 - owns vineyards totaling 66 hectares throughout the Margaux appellation. The overall proportion of plantings is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 1.5% Cabernet Franc, and 1.5% Petit Verdot. Cabernet Franc plots are roughly eighty years old. The vineyards have a diverse range of soils: gravel, limestone, and clay. The best vineyards for the estate (and arguably) are located on “Terrace Quatre,” which is well draining. The oldest plots are located close to the estate. These plots are mainly used for the grand vin. Newer plots are used for the estate’s second wine, “Segla”. The estate also has a 10 hectare experimental organic vineyard, viewed as a laboratory, which was purchased in 2008. In 2013, a “complicated vintage”, the grapes from this vineyard were declassified to a generic wine. In higher quality vintages (e.g. 2012), the vineyard may be used for “Segla”. Grapes are hand harvested in 4-kilo crates. Grapes are manually sorted – an optical sorter is not used because the selection is too aggressive. The estate feels that the optical sorter, being historically used for peas, is not well suited to the wine industry yet. To ensure uniform ripeness, a green harvest is conducted in the vineyard to remove berries lagging in ripeness at veraison. Grapes are destemmed and may be further sorted by berry. Berries are gently crushed and fermentation vessels gently filled by tipping (e.g. gravity) from the top. The Chateau strives for freshness, elegance, and a silky texture. Sixteen percent of pressings are used on average. Rauzon-Segla is able to use this much because of no over-extraction during fermentation. Indeed, the target maximum fermentation temperature is 26-27 degrees Celsius. Wine is blended in early March, before maturation, to ensure homogeneity. This means the en primeur sample is representative of what will become the bottled grand vin. Production is on average divided 40 percent Rauzon-Segla and 60 percent “Segla”. Total production is 200,000 bottles. A mobile bottling line is used due to expense and lack of expertise. A coarse filtration (1 micron) is used to “clean” the wine; will still throw sediment, an important sign of quality for the estate. Six to seven cooperage companies are used in total. Maturation is for 18 months, with 60 percent (up to 70 percent in some vintages) new oak. “Segla” is a combination of new and 1, 2, 3 year old barrels. Racking occurs every three months, totaling six times per vintage. The wine is gently fined with fresh egg whites (4-5 per barrel) before being beldned in tank to ensure perfect homogeneity. Finally, the wine is bottled in late May.

Chateau Rauzan Segla - Catherine Petrie This was the final visit of our tour of the Médoc, and our hosts’ hospitality made for a jovial and memorable last evening all together. We arrived just as the spring sun was setting, and were quickly divided into two groups for tour of the winery and barrel hall, then reunited for a tasting and dinner. The vineyard/the estate: Size and recent history: The estate currently holds 70 hectares, having been recently enlarged through the purchase of a parcel in Arsac for the estate’s second wine, Ségla. The estate was created in the 17th century, and the original plots still surround the château. Newer purchases have been made further afield in the Margaux commune, including the Boston block, which is farmed organically. The fashion house, Chanel, purchased the château in 1994, since which time John Kolasa has been at the helm. The vines: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 1.5% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Petit Verdot. Green harvest is carried out just at the point of veraison, where 10-20% of late ripening fruit will be dropped before the colour fully changes. Vendanges: All the fruit is harvested by hand and transported to the winery in 6kg crates, where it is sorted by hand (first in bunches, and then after destemming as individual berries). There is no optical sorter here, ‘and that’s by choice!’ Alice points out. We had heard a variety of colourful opinions about optical sorting machines during our visits, and this was a refreshing angle. Careful selection in the vineyard and attention to detail on the sorting table suffice here. Since the château does not practice cold soak maceration, they avoid picking in the extreme heat, and generally prefer picking in the cooler mornings. The picking date decision is based on tasting the grapes, rather than on chemical analysis. Unlike some other estates visited on the trip, this château does have dedicated plots for the grand vin and second label. Young vines will also be reserved for the second label, as will any parcels that do achieve the quality worthy of the grand vin. The winery/the barrel hall: Cuverie: In 2014 the château enlarged their vat room, and purchased 10 smaller tanks of 54 hectolitres. This collection of smaller tanks means the estate can vinify small plots separately, and larger plots in their older cuves which vary from 100-150 hl. Since the estate does have spread-out holdings and diverse soil types, this development is an exciting one, and will allow for even more precision and control in their vinification. Consultant/Vinification: The consultant at the estate is Eric Boissenot, and the vinification is traditional in style with fermentation taking place in stainless steel, no cold soak maceration, and gentle pumping over. Another recent development in the winery is filling the tanks by tipping (ie, gravity filling, rather than with the use of a pump). Fermentation temperature and length vary, but 28°C for 22 days is a typical example. Elevage: The press wine is kept separate from the free run. In 2014, 16% makes up the grand vin blend. The blend is decided upon in March following the harvest, after which time the wine is again returned to barrel. It is racked every 3 months, and fined with egg white before bottling (average of 3 egg whites per barrel).

Barrels: A key distinction of Rauzan Ségla is its measured use of new oak, which is limited to a maximum of 70% for the grand vin and 15-25% for the second wine, so as to respect the delicate Margaux aromas. In 2014, for example, 60% new oak was used in the grand vin. 7 coopers feature in the two barrel halls at the château: Adour, Berger, Sylvain, Nadalié, Saint Martin, Darnajou, Demptos. Changing of the Guard: John Kolasa will be retiring in July this year, handing the reins over to Nicolas Audebert, who joined in time for the 2014 harvest. Nicolas has spent the last 10 years managing Cheval Blanc’s Argentinian project, Cheval des Andes. He took us through a tasting of the 2014 en primeur wines, followed by some older vintages before dinner (which, of course, featured even further examples of Rauzan Ségla’s consistent quality through the decades). 2014 vintage: Nicolas explained that 2014 was a difficult vintage. It saw a complicated spring and “no summer” at all, but the vintage was saved by a magical September and October. The style of Rauzan Ségla is more juicy red fruit than black fruit, very elegant but with structure (the iron fist in the velvet glove). This estate’s 2014 samples were for many in the group the best tasted during the trip. The grand vin was really charming: restrained, elegant, savoury, with freshness, supple tannins and a long concentrated finish. Also featured in the tasting: Ségla 2009, Château Rauzan Ségla 2011, Château Rauzan Ségla 2006. Wines during dinner: Ségla 2002, Château Rauzan Ségla 1998, Château Rauzan Ségla 1995, Château Rieussec 1989 In conclusion: This château may describe their approaches and techniques as ‘traditional’, but there is nothing old-fashioned here. The slick presentation with vibrant red branding does justice to its fashionable owner; the viticulture is forward thinking; the winemaking is thoughtful and gentle; the élevage is measured. Over all this is a very classy operation with restrained, judicious use of modern technology to maintain the classic Margaux perfume, and as a result this estate is making very grown-up wine. The open invitation to all us students to return will do doubt be taken up with enthusiasm.