194 Bay 40th Street, Brooklyn NY 11214

Tel: (917) 318-0055

Residential Home Inspection and Commercial Building Inspection www.unityhomeinspectors.com

STANDARD HOME INSPECTION REPORT

Subject Property: Somewhere Street City,State Zipcode

Part I The Home Inspection Report Each Inspection item in this report is categorized as follows: AC (Acceptable): The item or system is performing its designed function at the time of the inspection. Be aware that an item or system may be somewhat aged and/or deteriorated yet still perform the function for which it is designed. There is no assurance that the item will continue to function. NP (Not Present): The item or system does not exist in the structure or was visually concealed at the time and date of the inspection. NI (Not Inspected or Limited Inspection): The item or system was not inspected due to safety concerns, inaccessibility/concealment or seasonal conditions. “Limited Inspection” indicates that the item or system is not an integral part of this inspection, however, it was observed and evaluated to a limited extent. SD (Significantly Deficient): The item or system failed to operate or perform its intended function (inoperative), was structurally deficient, was unsafe, and/or hazardous at the date and time of inspection. Includes item(s) or system(s) near the end of their service lives.

Structural Components (SC) AC

NP

NI

SD Age of Structure: _1960___ Type of Building: single townhouse condo other _______________________ Type of Construction: woodframe masonry basement crawlspace concrete slab _________________ Roof Style: gable mansard flat shed hip other ___________________________________________

1 2

Wall Structure: dimensional wood solid masonry other ___________________________________ Support Columns: exterior wood masonry steel other _____________ interior wood masonry steel other _____________

3

Foundation Walls: poured concrete masonry block brick stone % concealed by finish/insulation vertical/diagonal/horizontal cracks

4

Floor Structure: Support Beams: steel wood support walls - _____ % observed ____________________________ Joists: dimensional wood open web floor wood “I” joists rough sawn wood ______________ poured concrete - ____% concealed by finish/insulation _____________________________________ crawl space -entered not entered _____n/a___________________________________________ Sub- flooring: plywood dimensional wood manufactured material _________________________

5 6 7

Structural Settlement normal minor major severe _____________________________________ Ceiling Structure: flat cathedral other __________________________________________________ Roof Structure: Framing: wood trusses rafters other ______________________________________ Sheathing: plywood/ manufactured material dimensional wood FRTP – brand _______________ Attic(s): entered not entered - ___ % observed – Reason ____________________________________

8

Garage/ Carport: attached detached lower level _________________________________________ Garage Door: single double – Material: wood metal fiberglass _______________________ Floors: minor cracks differential movement ______________________________________________ Automatic door opener – Reverse Mechanism: mechanical electronic _________________________

9

Water Penetration/ Abnormal Condensation/ mold mildew: past present not known __________ Location: attic ________ crawlspace ________ basement wall ________ living area _1st floor ceiling____ skylight

wood other __________ bowing/differential

SEE IMPORTANT STRUCTURAL MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!! I-1

Exterior (EX) AC 1 2 3 4

5 6 7

NP

NI

SD Wall Surfaces: #1 Location: front side(s) rear –Material: ___brick______________________________________ #2 Location: front side(s) rear – Material: ___brick/ semi-deattached_______________________ #3 Location: front side(s) rear – Material: ___brick______________________________________ Wall Flashings: Location: doors windows wall/roof junctures concealed – observed for leakage only ______ Materials metal vinyl caulking other ______________________________________________ Wall Trim: Location: doors windows corners other _____________________________________________ Entryway Doors: front side(s) rear upper level lower level ___________________________ Patio Doors: Location: front side(s) rear upper level lower level ________________________________ Type: sliver French ___________________________________________________________________ Material: aluminum vinyl wood insulated glass single pane _________________________

8

Exterior (Prime) Windows double hung casement awning sliding screens/storm _________ Windows (not part of this inspection) valances fixed pane sills/ trim frames caulking/ glazing – Material: Frames: wood metal vinyl single pane glass (2nd floor front windows) insulated glass __all 4 front and 2 rear double hung windows won’t stay opened on 2nd floor , the springs on the window sash may have to be replaced._______

9

Decks(s)/Balcony(s): front side(s) rear _________________________________________________ Material: treated wood redwood cedar metal _______________________________________ Construction: attached to house for support free standing - support columns railings(s) 4” vertical baluster spacing unsafe wide spacing unsafe ladder type spacing ________________

10

Stoops/Steps/Areaways/Porches: front side(s) rear Material: treated wood redwood cedar other _______________________________________ Hand Rails: wood metal other ________________________________________________________ Stairway to Basement: concrete brick masonry block wood crack movement Eaves/Soffits/Fascias: (observed from ground level): front side(s) rear _______________________ Eaves/Soffits Materials: wood aluminum vinyl vented ________________________________ Fascia Materials: aluminum vinyl clad wood wood vinyl other __________________________ Grading/ Drainage: positive slope away from foundation walls well defined swales _______________ neutral slope negative slope evidence of water ponding at foundation _____________________ Trees/Shrubbery/Vegetation: contacting house overgrown decay damage unsafe __________ Fencing: (Limited Inspection) wood metal decay damage loose at ground unsafe ________ Ownership not determined ______________________________________________________________ Outbuildings (other than garage/ carport): (Limited Inspection) _____________________________________ Driveway: concrete asphalt gravel grading cracks/ settlement concrete spalling ______ neutral slope negative slope slopes toward home ______________________________________ Patio(s) – Location: front side(s) rear – Material: wood concrete paver/brick ________ Condition: racked settled slopes toward house _________________________________________ Sidewalk/Walkway: concrete brick flagstone differential movement/settlement __________ Window wells: covers internal drains _____________________________________________________ Retaining Walls: brick block concrete stone wood other ___________________________ mortar joints dry weep holes differential movement ________________________________

11 12 13

14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

SEE IMPORTANT EXTERIOR MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!! I-2

Roof System (RO) AC

NP

NI

SD Roof Coverings: Location: __roof top________________Materials: _rubber membrane_____________ Est Age: _10________ Location: _________________________Materials: _____________________________ Est Age: ___________ Location: _________________________Materials: _____________________________ Est Age: ___________ Location: _________________________Materials: _____________________________ Est Age: ___________ How Observed: Not observed with ladder at eaves from ground w/binoculars from windows walked - ____ % observed – limitations: ____________________________________________________ Roof Leaks/ Damage/ Condensation: some signs extensive ________________________________ Location: shingles skylights flashing chimney ridge caps soffits/ rakes______________ Flashing: aluminum galvanized copper concealed – observed for leakage only _____________ Chimney: masonry metal in chase clean before using - ____% observed deteriorated chimney cap deteriorated brick/mortar ____________________________________________________ Roof Drainage System: aluminum galvanized copper vinyl other ______________________ debris in gutters not aligned /loose deteriorated splash blocks extensions _downspout disconnected from waste line, waste line was filled with tar and the downspout drains water directly into the foundation._______

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

SEE IMPORTANT ROOF MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!!

Plumbing (PL) AC 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8

9

NP

NI

SD Water Service/ Waste discharge: public private (not part of this inspection) _____________________ Service to House: copper galvanized PVC polybutylene lead unknown Main Water Supply Shut-off Location: ___basement______________________________________________ Interior Water Supply Pipes: copper galvanized PVC polybutylene unknown ____________ Adequate Functional Flow: yes no – Tested at: hose bibb lower level upper level Drain/Waste/Vents: copper galvanized lead PVS/ABS cast iron unknown slow drain/leaks ___________ Domestic Water Heater: gas oil electric integral with heating system _Weil & McLain_______ Capacity: __153606 btu/hr__ Age: __20+___ Ample for __4-6_____ people Pressure/temperature relief valve and extension _sufficient length_ Fuel Storage/ Distribution Systems: Old Oil tank in basement (no longer used) Oil tank is underground LP gas tank is above ground LP gas tank is below ground Electric _____________________________ Bathroom #1 Location:_2nd floor full bath. ______________________________________________________ built-in tub leg tub shower stall whirlpool shower in tub ____leaking by shower knob__ ceramic tile in mortar in mastic fiberglass/plastic surround re-caulk _____________________ general plumbing leaks faucets drains ________________________________________________ Ventilation: fan window – Floor covering: _tile___________________________________________

10

Bathroom #2 Location:__1nd floor full bath______________________________________________________ built-in tub leg tub shower stall whirlpool shower in tub __Leaking by sink faucet______ ceramic tile in mortar in mastic fiberglass/plastic surround re-caulk _____________________ general plumbing leaks faucets drains ________________________________________________ Ventilation: fan window – Floor covering: _tile___________________________________________

11

Bathroom #3 Location:_______________________________________________________________________ built-in tub leg tub shower stall whirlpool shower in tub ___________________________ ceramic tile in mortar in mastic fiberglass/plastic surround re-caulk _____________________ general plumbing leaks faucets drains ________________________________________________ Ventilation: fan window – Floor covering: ________________________________________________

PLUMBING CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

I-3 AC

NP

NI

SD

12

Bathroom #4 Location:_______________________________________________________________________ built-in tub leg tub shower stall whirlpool shower in tub ___________________________ ceramic tile in mortar in mastic fiberglass/plastic surround re-caulk _____________________ general plumbing leaks faucets drains ________________________________________________ Ventilation: fan window – Floor Covering: ______________________________________________ Clothes Washer: Present yes no (not part of this inspection) __________________________________ Clothes Dryer: Present yes no – vented gas electric – not part of this inspection Plumbing Cross Connections __________________________________________________________________ Fire/ Lawn Sprinkler System Present: yes no ( not part of this inspection) ________________________ Water Conditioning System(s) Present yes no (no part of this inspection) _______________________ Outside Hose Faucets: Winterized – not tested ________________________________________________ Sump/ Sump Pump: Sealed unit/cover – not tested __sump pump turns on and running_____________ Laundry Tub: faucets drain life pump __________________________________________________

13

14 15 16

Electrical (EL) AC

NP

NI

SD

1 2 3

Electrical Service Entrance to building: overhead underground multi-unit service Service Cable- Size/Amps: Material Copper Aluminum – Size/ Amps: __200 Amps________________ 2 Panel Boxes/ Sub panel(s): Amps: _100 amps 120/240 Volts federal pacific panels_ Location(s) Basement The Federal Pacific panels are not sufficient by today’s standards and should be replaced by panels that are rated for at least 150Amps 220 Volts Contains: fuses circuit breakers Grounded/Bonded 110/220 Volts: _______________________ Panel Box/ Sub panel(s): Amps: _30 amps____ Location(s) _basement________________________ Contains: fuses circuit breakers Grounded/Bonded 110/220 Volts: _______________________ Branch Conductors: copper aluminum (120V single strand, 10 or 12 Ga) Romax BX Conduit knob and tube _______________________________________________________________ Electrical Outlets/Switches/Lighting Fixtures (Representative Number): 2-prong 3-prong _(2-prong outlets should be upgraded to 3 prongs, one outlet has hot/neutral wires reversed___ Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters Tested: _in 1st floor bathroom, no power_______________________ Location: kitchen baths garage exterior crawl space basement other ___________ Smoke Detectors Present/Tested: Location(s) Smoke/Carbon Monixide detectors should be replaced every 5 years

4 5 6 7

SEE IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!! Heating System (HS) AC 1

2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12

NP

NI

SD Heating System (s) location: #1 primary _Weil&McLane, hot water boiler and furnace #2 secondary ______ Fuel: Primary/ Secondary natural gas propane oil electric _____________________________ Heating Method(s): forced air furnace gravity hot water boiler forced hot water boiler steam boiler radiant heat electric baseboard heat pump ______________________________ Capacity (BTU): primary: _153,606 btu/hr_ secondary: ____ Est. Age: _20+yo_ Normal Operating Controls _ Energy Source(s): fuel oil public gas LP gas electric other ____________________________ Heat Exchanger(s) –Limited interior observation due to access/visibility Rust accumulation heavy moderate light ___% Observed _______________________________ flame tested mirror checked smoke tested Signs of perforation _____________________ Filter(s): washable disposable electronic –filter size: ______________________________________ Vent system/Draft control/Automatic Safety Controls _____________________________________________ Mechanical/distribution:: ducts/piping/plenums supports insulation dampers _____________ Supplemental Heat: Location: ______________________________________ Type of system: ____________________________ Location: ______________________________________ Type of system _____________________________ Installed Heat Source in Each Room ____________________________________________________________ General Condition of Heating System(s) – Number of systems present: _______________________________ Differential Air Temperature at plenums (heat pumps): input _______________ output _________________ Chimney/ flue/vent (for heating system(s), excludes interior of flues) ________________________________

SEE IMPORTANT HEATING MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!!

I-4 Cooling System (CS) AC

NP

NI

SD

1

Cooling System (s) location: #1 primary _________________________ #2 secondary ____________________ Cooling Method: central air thru-wall units gas chiller heat pump: ______________________ Condensing Unit(s) – Capacity (rated input/ output BTU) _______________________ Est. Age: ____________ Normal Operating Controls: - Location __________________________________________________________ Installed Cooling Source in Each Room __________________________________________________________ General Condition of Cooling System (s) – Number of systems present: _______________________________ Differential Air Temperature at Plenums: input ______________________ output ______________________ Filter(s): washable disposable electronic – filter size: _____________________________________ Mechanical/Distribution: ducts/piping/plenums supports insulation fan/coil unit(s) _________

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

SEE IMPORTANT COOLING MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!! Kitchen and Appliances (KA) AC

NP

NI

SD

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Cabinets/ Countertops: ______________________________________________________________________ Lighting/ Electrical Outlets: GFI protected: _no GFI Electrical outlets_______________________________ Disposer: (Limited Inspection) Est Age: _________________________________________________________ Sink Type: single double stainless steel porcelain plumbing leaks Dishwasher air gap – (Limited Inspection ) Est. age ____________________________________________ Range/ Oven: gas electric – (Limited Inspection) Est. age _____________________________________ Refrigerator: ice maker – Limited Inspection) Est. age __________________________________________ Ventilation: ducted to exterior recirculating operable window ______________________________ Other Appliances: (Limited Inspection)__________________________________________________________ Floor: tile sheet goods hardwood ceramic carpet ___________________________________

SEE IMPORTANT KITCHEN MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!! Interiors (IN) AC 1 2 3 4 5 7 8

NP

NI

SD Floors: hardwood softwood plywood wall to wall carpet other ________________________ Walls: plaster on gypsum lath wood lath masonry drywall wood ______________________ Ceilings: plaster on gypsum lath wood lath masonry drywall wood ____________________ Interior trim: _______________________________________________________________________________ Steps/Stairways: handrails: ___(baluster needs to be repaired)__________________________________ Windows: (interior view): water penetration between panes (insulated glass) decay damage cracked/broken panes open/close as designed __problems with window springs_ Doors:(ext./int. views): water penetration decay damage open/close as designed ______________

SEE IMPORTANT INTERIOR MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!!

I-5 Insulation and Ventilation (IV) AC

NP

NI

SD

1

Attic Insulation: fiberglass batts loose cellulose rockwool ____________________________ Installed in: rafters floors – average inches: ________ Approx. “R” rating: ______________________ Vapor Retarders/ Barriers in Attic Basement Crawlspace __________________________________ Attic Ventilation: window(s) attic fan whole-house fan gable vents ridge/soffit vents _____ turbine fan(s) roof vent(s) _____________________________________________________________ Foundation Insulation/ Ventilation (crawl space) _________________________________________________ Kitchen/Bath/Laundry Venting Systems: See specific sections of report _____________________________ Mold/fungus present (not part of this inspection): Location(s) I suspect there is some wood rot in the basement ceiling.

2 3 4 5

SEE IMPORTANT INSULATION AND VENTILATION MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!! Fireplaces and solid fuel burning appliances (FP) AC

NP

NI

SD

1

Fireplace: Location(s): _______________________________________________________________________ Flue Liner Type: terra cotta metal masonry – no liner % observed _______________________ Type of unit(s) wood gas masonry metal prefabricated wood burning insert free standing stove pellet stove ________________________________________________________

2

Fireplace Chimney /flue/vent – clearance (limited interior observation due to access/visibility – not part of this inspection). ___________________________________________________________________________ Accumulation in flue(s) of: soot creosote other obstructions (not part of this inspection) ________

3.

SEE IMPORTANT FIREPLACE MESSAGES – PART II OF THIS REPORT!! NOTES:

I-6

PART II IMPORTANT GENERAL INFORMATION This part of the inspection report offers information that may have a direct bearing on your home purchase decision making process. This section, along with its handwritten side notes should be read very carefully before releasing your inspection contingency. Additionally, information is furnished to assist you in the care and maintenance of your investment. It is an amalgam of many facts, ideas and suggestions. We hope this will help resolve the questions and concerns that always seem to surround home ownership, its maintenance and upkeep. This section is designed to correlate with Part I, The home inspection Report. The major sections of this inspection report are repeated in order in this section. This is an integral part of the inspection report, PLEASE READ BOTH PARTS I and II CAREFULLY!! After reading both parts of this report, if you have any questions or concerns regarding a condition in your home, please call and we will provide information and guidance that may be of assistance. There are many excellent “do-it-yourself” books written expressly for the homeowner. These books cover all aspects of home maintenance and care. You may wish to purchase such a book at your local bookstore or building supply center.

NOTICE The EPA recommends that all homes be tested for indoor radon level. It is essential that such testing be performed by a qualified certified radon specialist. Ask for credentials prior to entering an agreement to having the test performed. If the indoor radon level in the home you are purchasing is at or above the EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/L. - - - DON’T PANIC!! Elevated indoor radon levels can be easily, permanently and inexpensively fixed (mitigated) by a qualified licensed radon mitigation contractor. The EPA has two excellent booklets which address radon; the “Home Buyer’s and Sellers Guide to Radon” and the “Consumer’s Guide to Radon Reduction”. Typically, your home inspector can furnish these booklets upon request. Homes constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead-based paints. Check with your Realtor(s) regarding disclosure and testing requirements. New federal and state guidelines give you specific rights regarding presence of lead-based paints and your purchase contract. This inspection report does not include testing for lead-based paint content or its identification. If you exercise your right to have the house tested for lead-based paint content, such testing must be done by an EPA and state approved testing company. The EPA has published a booklet which is typically furnished to you by your Realtor, titled “Protect your Family From Lead in Your Home”. If your home was constructed prior to 1978 this booklet should be on your “must read list. Asbestos content is found in hundreds of products used in home construction. Most common are floor coverings, such as vinyl tiles and sheet vinyl products. Asbestos was removed from the manufacturing process of these products in the early 1980’s. In Older homes with steam or hot water heating systems, asbestos-bearing material was used to insulate the supply and return pipes. This type of material is especially hazardous in that the material is usually friable. That is, it readily releases its fibers into the house air. Ceiling finishes sometimes referred to as “popcorn finish” if installed prior to 1978 nearly always contains some level of friable asbestos. Some attic insulation, ceiling tiles/finishes and in-floor air ducts, if installed prior to the mid 1970’s also may contain asbestos in varied amounts. This inspection report does not include asbestos identification or testing. However, visible suspected materials may be brought to your attention. Testing of samples taken from the house will reveal if asbestos is present and at what level of concentration.

Page One

Such testing is readily available through approved testing laboratories. Any or all of the above products or other asbestos bearing material may be present in this home, depending on its age and renovation. This inspection report cannot identify asbestos content – it requires specialized laboratory analysis. RECALL NOTICE: If your home is fire sprinkler equipped it may have defective sprinkler heads. These defective sprinkler heads fail to operate as designed. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (USCPSC) and the manufacturer, Central Sprinkler announced a recall of all Omega Sprinklers. Consumers should call the Omega Sprinkler Recall and Class Action Hotline -800-8965685 to learn more about how to identify an Omega sprinkler and to obtain a Proof of Claim and other forms. If you have questions about the recall or replacement effort that are not answered by the Omega Information or the Notice packet – call Omega Sprinkler Customer Service Line at 800-927-5291. You may also want to visit the web site www.Omegarecall.com WARNING: ALL DO-IT-YOURSELF HOME MAINTENANCE ACTIVITIES INVOLVE AN ELEMENT OF RISK TO YOUR HEALTH AND SAFETY AS WELL AS TO YOUR PROPERTY, WE HAVE MADE EVERY EFFORT TO ASSURE THAT THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOKLET OUTLINES SAFE PROCEDURES. HOWEVER YOU, AS THE HOMEOWNER REMAIN RESPONSIBLE FOR PERFORMING HOME MAINTENANCE ACTIVITIES IN A SAFE AND SECURE MANNER. WHEN USING HAND OR POWER TOOLS, LADDERS AND OTHER EQUIPMENT ALSOWAYS FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS OPERATING INSTRUCTION AND OBSERVE ALL SAFTY PRECAUTIONS. All homes, brand new and aged, require ongoing maintenance and repair. This home will be no exception. Electrical and mechanical systems will fail without warning, basements will likely develop water penetration problems, roofs often develop leaks as they age, exterior siding and wood trim will decay and require periodic repair and repainting. Homes are, by their very nature, a series of complex systems - - all of which have finite lives and are susceptible to unexpected failure!! All building modifications such as finished basements or attics, additions, decks, pools, fences and outbuildings must have a building permit on record in the local codes jurisdiction. It is essential that the presence of building permits be verified to assure safety and to reduce personal liability exposure that can result from injury or fire.

STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS (SC) The age of the house often can only be estimated. There are various indicators of the age, however these signs are not foolproof. Cracks in foundation walls may be of major concern!! Most are hairline cracks caused by minor mortar or concrete shrinkage that occurs during the curing process. Occasionally, vertical or step cracks occur due to heaving caused by frost penetration or expansive clay soils, settling caused by inadequate footers, shifted ground or incorrectly compacted soil. Horizontal cracks can also be caused by lateral pressure on the outside of the wall from frost, incorrectly backfilled excavations or by heavy equipment coming too close to the wall. Hairline cracks are normally of no concern. However, cracks wider than an th th 1/8 inch (some masonry specialists say 1/4 inch) usually warrant further investigation by a professional engineer with soils experience. Often wall cracks are concealed by wall finish or have been patched and the walls painted. If is always wise to check and be sure rather than take a chance with what potentially could be a serious problem. Basement water penetration and dampness can result in major structural damage. Often ongoing or recurrent basement water penetration is concealed by freshly painted walls. If there has been a sustained dry period, signs of past water penetration may not be visible. Home inspectors can only report on the signs observed at the time of the inspection. You should query the homeowner regarding water penetration history, ideally this information should be furnished in writing. Often there is efflorescence on the walls or stained/damaged paneling or drywall, this is an indicator of past or current water penetration. When dry, it is impossible to determine if the root cause has been corrected. Elimination of basement water penetration or dampness can often be easily accomplished by keeping the gutters clear of debris and properly aligned so they can carry the roof runoff to the downspouts. Additionally, the downspouts should be extended at least six or more feet away from the foundation. Use a clay-based soil (not mulch or loose top soil) tamped into place to form a positive slope for at least six feet

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away from the foundation. Patios, driveways and walkways that have a negative slope toward the foundation walls should either be repaired or replaced. Owners of homes that have a history of or ongoing water penetration should observe foundation walls for signs of horizontal cracking which is a sign of major hydrostatic pressure on the foundation wall(s). If this occurs, a professional engineer with soils experience should be consulted to determine a course of repair. Be aware that major water penetration can be very difficult to correct and will be very costly. Occasionally, professional waterproofing is necessary. Typically, this involves installation of perimeter drain systems and one or more sump pumps. Extreme cases may include excavation and resealing of the exterior foundation walls. Before spending large amounts of money to control water penetration into the basement, try the above suggestions. Professional waterproofing companies often correct the symptom rather than curing the problem. Long-term wetness in crawl spaces can result in major wood decay, mold accumulation and wood boring inspect infestation/damage. Even if there has been a sustained dry period, signs of water penetration may likely be evident. Dried mud, mold/mildew signs and water ponding at the depressions will likely be present. However, the home inspector can only report on the signs observed at the time of the inspection. You should query the homeowner ideally this information should be funished in writing. When dry, it is impossible to determine if the condition has been corrected. Elimination of crawl space water penetration can often be easily accomplished by keeping the gutters clear of debris, and properly aligned so they carry the roof runoff to the downspouts. Additionally, the downspouts should be extended at least six or more feet away from the foundation. Use a clay-based soil tamped into place to form a positive slope away from the foundation. Patios, driveways and walkways that have a negative slope toward the foundation walls should be either repaired or replaced. Occassionally, professional water proofing is necessary. Typically, this involves installation of drain fields and one or more sump pumps. In any case, it is essential that crawl spaces be kept dry - - - failure to do so will likely result in major damage to your home!! Cracks in basement floors are usually of no major concern. Typically, fine-line cracks form when the poured concrete floor cures and the concrete shrinks. When cracks exceed a sixteenth of an inch they should be sealed with an epoxy-based material designed for that purpose. Cracks that exceed an eighth of an inch and/or if there is differential settlement the condition may warrant further investigation by a professional engineer. Again, it is always wise to check and be fure rather than take a chance with what potentially could be a serious problem. Exterior Stairwells are subject to masonry damage and clogged drains. Observe the masonry walls at the stairwell frequently signs of cracking or wall movement caused by masonry failure or hydrostatic pressure. These conditions, when discovered, should be promptly corrected by a qualified mason. Failure to correct the deterioration can result in the collapse of the wall. Handrails at the steps are required as well as at the area surrounding the stairwell. It is essential that the drain at the base of the stairwell be kept clear of debris. Failure to do so, will likely result in water penetration into the basement area. Flame retardant plywood (FRT) is found in multi-unit structures such as apartments, condos and townhomes. It is located at the roof sheathing (a minimum of four feet at each side adjoining adjacent units) and it is observed from the attic space. It is designed to prevent flamespread from one unit to another in the event of a structural fire. It is a chemically treated plywood product intended to char at high temperature rather than support flame. Unfortunately, it often chars at relatively low temperature and thus loses its structural integrity. Deterioration is evident as the plywood darkens to a deep brown color, develops cracks, fissures, delamination and downward deflection. Additionally, it flexes and crackles when pressed upon with the palm of the hand. Product failure, once it begins, is both progressive and irreversible. Early replacement is essential. Failure to replace deteriorated FRT plywood can result in its total failure and likely structural damage. IT IS UNSAFE TO WALK ON THE ROOF!! Pest Control. A qualified pest control company can determine if your home has either present or past wood boring insect infestation and determine the proper course of remedial action. Detection of insect boring activity or damage is not part of this inspection. However, visual damage may be reported.

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EXTERIOR (EX) Exterior wood siding and trim require a high level of maintenance. Wood is a hygroscopic material, that readily absorbs water, which in turn, causes wood decay. `Second and third growth wood tends to decay much sooner than original growth wood - - unfortunately original growth wood is no longer available! It is essential that the wood be sealed from all water sources. This is commonly done by caulking and keeping the surfaces sealed using a premium quality paint. Damage resulting from thruthe wall water penetration is usually concealed, but can be major in nature! Exterior wood extensively damaged by decay is best replaced. However, minor decay damage can often be repaired with patching materials designed specifically for exterior wood decay repair, albeit, patching is, at best, a temporary fix! Observe the wood trim and siding frequently, if deterioration is noted, repair it promptly. Windows and doorframes are most susceptible to early decay damage and unfortunately, the most difficult and costly to repair. Peeling paint can be a major hazard if the house was built prior to 1978- it has the potential to be lead-based paint. Always use a premium quality paint and primer. Prepare the surface well – it is much cheaper in the long run!! Occasionally, it may be less expensive to have the exterior trim surfaces finished with aluminum or vinyl cladding. Remember, ladders are by their very nature unsafe. You may wish to have painting and repair work done by a professional. General wood and paint deterioration and minor decay is typically considered to be a routine home maintenance concern. WARNING!! Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems (EIFS) – a synthetic stucco siding material has a history of failure that results in major structural damage. Systems installed precisely to the manufacturer’s specifications are usually safe from failure. In incorrectly installed or deteriorated systems water can penetrate behind the system and become entrapped causing major concealed deterioration of the substrate. An inspector, certified by the manufacturer, uses special equipment and techniques to determine if water penetration has occurred and estimates the extent of the water damage. There are two major types of EIFS installation, the barrier system in which the finish is sealed against any water penetration. The other is the water management system in which entrapped water has an avenue of escape. This inspection does not differentiate between the two, nor does it attempt to detect concealed damage. If your home’s exterior is finished with EIFS, you are urged to have a manufacturer’s trained inspector evaluate the system for possible damage. Insulated glass windows/patio doors/skylights with water penetration between the panes cannot be repaired. Glass segments with damaged seals and water penetration or fogginess require replacement by a qualified specialist. The condition usually worsens until the glass becomes opaque. In the early stages of failure, the condition may not be detectable in certain weather conditions. The insulation value of the double pane glass is essentially lost when the seal fail. Total window/door replacement is not necessary only the affected glass panes are replaced. Multiple pane replacement can become costly. Concrete or asphalt driveways, walkways and sidewalks often show settlement cracks. Minor cracks without differential settlement are normal. More serious wide or cracks with differential movement may require replacement of the damaged segments. Spalled concrete, that is, the top quarter of an inch or so is coming off, cannot be effectively repaired. Minor cracks should be filled with an epoxy-based material made for that purpose. Differential cracks can pose a serious tripping hazard and should be corrected as quickly as possible. Exterior Iron railings can be destroyed if not kept well painted. Observe frequently for surface rust. When noted - scrape, prime and repaint using a quality exterior primer and rust-inhibiting paint. If railings are weakened by rust, either replace or repair to their original condition. Deteriorated rails, iron or wood, pose a serious safety hazard. The exterior doors, windows, storm doors and patio doors should open wide, close and latch as designed. Doors and windows that do not open and close as designed pose a safety hazard. Defective window balance mechanisms may allow an opened window to slam shut are especially dangerous and should be quickly corrected. Broken/cracked panes pose a major hazard in the glass can fall from its opening causing possible injury. Assure that the pneumatic door closer(s) on the store doors are properly secured and adjusted to limit possible wind damage. Recommend that the door and window hardware and tracks be occasionally lubricated with a quality silicone spray to facilitate ease of operation.

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The garage doors and openers require periodic maintenance. Wood overhead doors should be kept well painted on both the exterior and the interior to prevent premature decay damage. When replacing aged doors consider the popular metal doors, which are available both insulated and non-insulated. Door tracks and hardware require lubrication to assure their smooth operation. Use 30SAE weight motor oil on all bearing surfaces. Silicone spray or white lithium spray lubricant both work well on the vertical and horizontal tracks. If equipped with an automatic garage door opener(s) assure that the automatic reversing mechanism operates as designed. This can be accomplished by closing the door and obstructing the door path with a 2”x4” board. It should retract with only moderate pressure. It should reverse immediately. If not, repair or replace the opener. Newer automatic openers have electronic reversing mechanisms which operate using an electric beam which when interrupted reverses the door without contact. Test the reversing mechanism frequently to assure its proper operation. Some very old door openers do not have reversing mechanisms. They are unsafe and should be immediately replaced. The general grading of the property should be such that ground surface and roof runoff water is diverted away from the foundation walls. On sloping properties, water drainage path(s) can be controlled by developing swales that are designed to harmlessly carry off the water. The grading at the foundation walls should always slope positively away at a rate of at least one inch per foot for a minimum of five to seven feet. A good test of the grading is to walk around the perimeter of the house immediately after a heavy rain and check for mud holes or pools of water at the foundation walls. Negative grading and water pooling at the foundations is another major contributor to basement water penetration, hydrostatic pressure and foundation damage. Grading can often be corrected by tamping clay-based soil into place to form the positive slope described above. Typically, grading deficiencies should only be corrected by a qualified landscape specialist. Exterior drains, either passive or active, usually a dry well or wet pump system may be required to correct the most difficult conditions. Unless it is raining at the time of the inspection or there has been very recent heavy rain it is often difficult to identify potential water control problem areas. Decks should be adequately secured to the house. All elevated decks (above thirty inches from the grade should have a building permit on record at the local jurisdiction. Wood decks already in place should be modified to become quasi-freestanding, that is, supported from the ground at both the front and rear. This is essential when the method of securing the deck to the house cannot be ascertained to be adequate. Deck railings should be modified to meet the current local requirements - - - wide gapped or ladder type railings pose a serious hazard. Decks, porches, and columns should be kept well painted or sealed to delay decay damage. Decks build with pressure-treated wood do require periodic pressure washing and sealing with a quality water repellant to resist warping, checking and splitting. Elevated decks should be minimally constructed to comply with the current local jurisdictional requirements for both safety and liability. Ideally, all elevated decks should be supported from the ground at both the front and rear - - - regardless of local code requirements!! Trees and shrubbery should be trimmed away from the house/roof line at least six to twelve inches. Severe damage to the siding, trim or roof can result from long-term abrasion by trees and shrubbery. Trees should be observed frequently for signs of dead branches or decay damage. Mature trees should be observed by a qualified licensed arborist prior to settlement and yearly thereafter. Decayed trees can fall during heavy winds and cause major damage and personal injury. Tree removal, while essential, can be both hazardous and very costly. The work should be done by licensed and insured specialists!! Retaining walls, whether constructed of concrete, concrete block, stone or wood have a propensity to move and lean. Typically, such movement is caused by hydrostatic pressure behind the wall. Walls that lean or have movement normally require major repair or replacement to correct the condition. If left uncorrected, the wall will likely collapse. Repair or replacement of retaining walls can be very costly!! Ownership of fences can not be determined during the inspection. Fences are not art of this inspection. However, some comments regarding the fences may be made. Fences frequently require maintenance and repair.

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ROOF SYSTEM (RO) Composition Roof covering are most common. Typically, these are fiberglass or organic material covered with a granular surface in three tab design. A roof reported as “satisfactory” means that it is satisfactory for its age and general usefulness. A roof reported as significantly deficient may have advanced deterioration such as curing, broken shingles, excessive granular loss and generalized brittleness. _ _ _ but no active, observed leaks!! Usually, such is a roof is typically in its last ten percentile of life. Such roofs should be replaced as a preemptive measure, rather than waiting for a major leak to occur. Waiting for a roof to “go” invariably causes a variety of other damages which adds significantly to its replacement cost. Only active, ongoing roof leaks can be detected and reported. Often a leak is relatively new and has not stained the roof sheathing, making a leak area difficult or impossible to detect. Again, this report includes only the conditions that exist at the time of inspection! Flat roofs are typically covered with asphalt roll roofing, rubber membrane roofing or with either soldered-seam or standing-seam metal. Asphalt roll roofs are often concealed by a coating of gravel or slag. It is nearly impossible to determine the condition of the asphalt roll roof when covered in this manner. Often, asphalt roofs are not covered with gravel or slag, in this case, they can be repeatedly sealed with hot applied asphalt. Metal roofs must be kept adequately painted to prevent rust damage. Additionally, metal roofs should never be covered or sealed with asphalt. Asphalt coatings allow water to be trapped between the metal roof and the coating. Flat roofs require ongoing maintenance, - - - if properly maintained, they will last quite well!! Slate roofs require nearly annual care. Broken and damaged slates must be replaced and ridges and valleys require sealants. Several times each year, minimally, in the spring and fall, inspect your slate roof with binoculars to detect damge and schedule early repair. Many slate roof specialists will automatically inspect your roof annually if you arrange such a program of maintenance. Without ongoing maintenance an aged slate roof can deteriorate to the point that is no longer economically feasible to repair. Replacement of slate roofs is very costly!! Do not attempt to walk on a slate roof - - - irreparable damage will like result!! Wood shake roofs deteriorate quickly. They tend to curl, split and develop mildew/decay within the first few years of life. The quality of wood shakes fluctuates widely within grades and types available. Wood shake roofs should be checked by a qualified wood roof specialist every two years! Their life can be greatly extended if cleaned and resealed every five years. Due to the high cost of replacement, ongoing maintenance and care proves to be quite cost effective. All roofs are hazardous to talk on and are easily damaged. We recommend that you stay off the roof. Most roofs can be adequately observed from the ground with binoculars, from a window with a good view of the roof or from a ladder at the eaves. Accordingly, the information in this report regarding the condition of the roof is a visual inspection conducted, often, without actually walking on the roof. Observe your roof periodically. In addition, observe the flashings at chimneys, valleys and roof edges to assure they are sealed and free of cracks. If you see what appears to be damage, have it professionally checked and repaired. Gutters and downspouts should be kept clear of debris, aligned, well secured to the house and extended away from the foundation. Gutters and downspouts dumping at the foundation walls are a prime contributor to water penetration into the basement. Gutters anchored to the fascia with spikes and ferrule occasionally pull loose and become out of alignment. It is essential to keep splashblocks and/or plastic extensions in place and aligned to drain the runoff away from the foundation walls. Damaged or loose flashing at the chimney(s) or at other roof penetrations is also a likely cause of roof leaks. Heavily caulked flashings are almost a guarantee of past water leaks - - observe frequently for continued leaks. When roofs are replaced, it is essential that all flashings also be replaced.

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PLUMBING (PL) Older homes frequently have water supply and waste plumbing systems that have some degree of deterioration and are likely inadequate for today’s modern requirements. Plan on possible failure of such items as faucets, valves, drainpipes and occasionally failure of the water supply pipes. This inspection observes such systems, however, we report only on active leaks or defects. We cannot accurately forecast failure of deteriorated systems. Preventive maintenance, including faucet and drainpipe replacement and observation of valves for signs of leaks can forestall major damage. Replacement of failed water supply or waste lines from the house to the street can be quite costly! The replacement of service pipe is costly. You may wish to have the water tested by a state-approved laboratory for lead content and the presence of other harmful chemicals. This home inspection does not include examination of the septic system. Private septic systems should be checked by a company specializing in septic systems. Septic systems often are opened at the tank and/or distribution box to check the condition of the fields. Septic systems are typically pumped to remove solids and sludge every two years or as required. Failure to do so will likely result in early system failure. Observe the septic field often to detect odors or the surfacing of effluent. All septic systems require periodic, scheduled maintenance. There is no assurance how long a system will remain functional, Repair and replacement costs are high. This home inspection does not include the examination of private water supplies. Private water supplies should be checked every six months for chemical content and portability. Local health authorities can supply names of accredited testing laboratories specializing in testing residential well water. Additionally, flow tests should be conducted periodically to assure that the well water supply and flow is adequate. Polybutylene water service pipe (from the street) and interior water supply plumbing have an extensive history of premature failure and are the subject of major class action law suits. This inspection report identifies, when visible, such material and its location. Recommend that you check with the local water authority, the homeowners association and the local municipal authorities to determine the products failure rates in the locale of the property. Pending failure is concealed and cannot be detected without invasive actions. A licensed, qualified specialist may be able to determine the propensity for failure based on the type of installation present. Polybutylene system failure can cause major damage to the home and its contents! Such input may assist you in making an informed decision regarding its presence. Occasionally, in metropolitan areas there is still lead water service pipe coming in from the street. Lead pipe can usually be identified by scraping the surface of the pipe where it has been formed into the interior pipe. Health authorities recommend that lead service pipe be replaced with copper, especially if the PH factor in the water supply is low. Typically, this type of water service is aged and nearing failure. Excellent filtration systems are available to remove the lead content from the drinking water supply. Older homes often have galvanized service and/or interior supply pipe. Galvanized pipe rusts and clogs from the interior effectively reducing the interior diameter of the pipe. This reduces the water flow at faucets and showers. In some cases both the service from the street and the interior supply pipes must be replaced. Occasionally, only the horizontal interior pipe must be replaced. Additionally, galvanized pipe, due to its age, tends to develop leaks. Replacement of galvanized pipe is costly!! Hose bibbs must be shut off and drained during freezing weather. This can be accomplished by closing the inside shutoff valves and opening the outside bibs to allow drainage. Typically the shut off valves are located at the basement level. Occasionally, they may be found under a sink at the main floor. Failure to close and drain the bibbs can result in costly freeze damage!!

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Observe water heaters frequently for signs of leakage. Most electric water heaters have an upper and lower heating element that can be replaced if it fails. Gas water heaters should be checked annually by the local gas company or a service company to assure that they are operating properly, and are adequately vented. In both gas and electric heaters the pressure/temperature relief valve should extend to within six inches of the floor. When replacing the water heater, it is essential that the PTR valve be replaced at the same time. To prevent scalding hazards the hot water temperature should not be greater than 120 degrees. Early replacement of aged heaters may prevent major flooding and costly water damage. Ceramic tile in bathrooms is either set in mortar or in mastic. In either case, the tile must be kept well caulked at the tub, corners, faucets and floor. Failed caulking is a prime cause of water stains on ceilings below baths. When re-caulking, remove the old caulk, clean the area with rubbing alcohol to remove soap residue and neatly apply a tub and tile caulk that will remain flexible. If loose tiles are detected, repairs are best left to a qualified tile setter. Follow the caulking or grout manufacturers instructions for best results. Shower stalls often have a fiberglass, metal or membrane pan that is either visible or concealed under ceramic tile. Although a visual inspection is made to observe if there are current leaks, often the shower pan only leaks when the shower is in actual use. Typically, leaks can only be corrected by replacement of the pan. High quality fiberglass pans are often used for replacement. Shower pan replacement and tile repair can be very costly!! Commodes loose at the floor result in leaks. Loose commodes often require new wax seals and possibly flange repair. This is best done by a qualified plumber. If no leaks are noted, the commode may just require tightening to the floor. Loose commodes are a prime cause of water stains on ceilings in rooms below the bathroom.

ELECTRICAL (EL) Older homes frequently have electrical supply and distribution system that are outmoded and inadequate for today’s modern requirements. Often the electrical service from the street to the house exterior is the old style three separate wire system. The wiring from the weather head to the exterior meter base and subsequently on into the main panel is often undersized for the requirements of the home. Frequently, main electrical panels are either undersized or mismatched with the service cable amperage. Main electrical panels occasionally contain screw-in fuses rather than modern circuit breakers to provide proper branch circuit overload protection. An inadequate number of branch circuits, especially at the kitchen, can pose fire and personal safety hazards. The inspection observes the overall electrical system, however, we cannot determine the adequacy of its capacity. Systems that are undersized for today’s modern requirements should be upgraded to a minimum of 150A or preferable 200A service. In addition, a licensed electrician should add additional branch circuits within the home to provide adequate and safe service. Indiscriminate use of extension cords does not compensate for lack of adequate branch circuits and outlets. Many homes have electrical wiring that has been less-than-professionally installed, especially at additions and finished basements and attics.!! Inadequate or improperly installed electrical wiring is a leading cause of residential house fires and personal injury!! Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) protect against electrical shocks in kitchens, baths, outside receptacles, garages, crawl spaces, basements and any location that may be wet. Check every other week by pressing the test button on the face of the outlet. Be aware that the outlets may be wired in a series and one test button affects several outlets. The National Electric Code spells out, in detail, the requirements for ground fault protection. If your home is not GFCI equipped, have them installed now - - - a major safety issue!! Defective 120 Volt, single strand aluminum branch electrical wiring is dangerous and has caused electrical fires in homes. Aluminum branch wiring is found in some homes constructed or remodeled during the early 1950’s through 1979. Such wiring, typically 10 or 12 gauge, often used to power lighting and receptacles circuits may be easily overloaded. This product should not be confused with multistrand, heavy gauge aluminum wiring typically used for higher amperage applications. Aluminum branch wiring has a tendency to oxidize and loosen at the main panel and at the receptacle/switches. This condition causes high

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electrical resistance resulting in overheating and subsequent fires Aluminum branch wiring should be rendered safe by a qualified, licensed electrician. Often installation of new receptacles and switches rated for CU-ALR (copper-aluminum, revised) may be required. You should have a licensed, qualified electrician evaluate the wiring and assure that it is safe and will remain so. Do not take the presence of this material lightly - - - it is dangerous!! You should obtain from the USCPSC their free handbook, titled “Repairing Aluminum Wiring”. Write to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Publications Order, Washington, DC 20207. The USCPC handbook lists specific recommended “fixes” for this product. Smoke detectors should be checked every 2 to 3 weeks to assure that they are functional. Change the batteries each time that day light savings time changes. Often battery-powered detectors emit a chirping noise when the battery is low. Smoke detectors should be replaced every five years to help assure their sensitivity. Assure that the detectors are located as required by your local codes jurisdiction. Consider converting two-prong ungrounded outlets to GFCI protection. Consult a licensed electrician that is familiar with the procedure (Re: the National Electric Code). This NEC approved procedure will provide outlets which provide an added margin of safety against electric shock. Such installed outlets must be marked “GFI Protected” and must additionally be marked “NO Equipment Grounding”. Main electrical panel covers should not be removed by other than qualified persons. There is a potential for major electrical shock within the panel. Replacement of breakers or addition of circuits is best left to a licensed, qualified electrician. Electricians are qualified to determine circuit loads and breaker/wiring sizes necessary to safely handle anticipated electrical loads. Replacement (heavy-up) of main electrical panels must be done by a licensed electrician and with the required local jurisdictional electrical permit(s). Electrical repairs are not ideally performed by “do-it-yourself” homeowners

HEATING SYSTEMS (HS) & COOLING SYSTEMS (CS) PREVAILING WEATHER CONDITIONS DO NOT PERMIT OPERATION OF THE HEATING AND/OR THE COOLING SYSTEM(S). WE SUGGEST THAT THE CURRENT OWNER WARRANT THE SATISFACTORY OPERATION OF THE EQUIPMENT ON A ONE-TIME START-UP BASIS WHEN WEATHER PERMITS. Heating systems, and cooling systems should be covered by a service contract to assure safe and proper operation. Since the gas or oil fired hot air furnace must be partially disassembled to examine the heat exchanger and accurately determine its condition, it is only partially observed during our visual inspection. As part of our inspection, we do flame test and mirror check the exchanger, however this is not an all encompassing observation. We recommend that heat exchangers be further checked by your local utility company or as part of a service contract prior to settlement. All fossil fuel burning equipment should be checked at least annually for possible carbon monoxide emissions. This typically can be done by your service company or the serving utility company. Annual service contracts help assure that the equipment is checked on a regular basis for proper maintenance and possible component failure. Several companies manufacture carbon monoxide detectors for in-the-home-use. The plug-in 120 volt units seem to be the most reliable. Locate the detector(s) within the home as recommended by the manufacturer. We recommend their use for added home safety. Air filters in hot air heating systems and in air conditioning systems should be serviced every thirty days. This will provide for optimum air circulation and energy savings as well as extend the life of the system. Use of high efficiency, electrostatic, washable filters in lieu of standard fiberglass filters greatly improves the indoor air quality. It is essential that electronic air cleaners be serviced according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Failure to keep the air filters clean can result in clogged evaporator coils in the air conditioning or heat pump air handlers. This condition can result in premature system failure.

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Central humidifiers (not a part of this inspection) unless kept clean can spread bacteria throughout the house. For optimum protection against bacteria spread, the humidifier should be cleaned every thirty days during the winter months of use. Be sure to turn the water and power supply off before servicing the unit. Additionally, be sure to turn the unit off during the summer months – typically the first of April. Residential underground fuel storage tanks (UST) can pose an environmental hazard. Typically, these tanks have a capacity of either 275 or 550 gallons and last for fifteen years of longer. When oil storage tanks rust out or develop leaks they not only contaminate the surrounding soil but allow ground water to seep into tank which is then pumped into the oil burner causing its failure. Have your oil supplier check older tanks annually for leakage. Replacement of underground tank(s) with an approved tank located in the basement is recommended. Soil contamination can be costly to correct!!

KITCHEN AND APPLIANCES (KA) Appliances do not typically have a date of manufacture indicated. Ages indicated in this report are, at best, approximations. They are not a part of this inspection. However, we do normally operate the units through a normal cycle. This is only a cursory observation. Aged appliances should typically be replaced rather than repaired when they fail. When operated in actual usage the appliance may not function as designed or intended. Damaged refrigerator door gaskets can cause high utility costs and damage the unit. Observe the gaskets on the inside perimeter of the door(s). Replace when damage is observed. Keep the evaporator coils clean. They are located either under or at the rear of the refrigerator. The air gap for the dishwasher becomes clogged and allows water to escape. It is typically located at the sink rim. Failure to correct the condition can result in water damage to the countertop. The clothes dryer should be vented to the exterior - - - a must if a gas-fired unit!! Use a flexible metal vent pipe in lieu of the plastic type that can cause a fire. Keep the internal lint filter clean according to the manufacturer’s instructions. All appliances should be grounded and vented per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Failure to do so may result in severe electrical shock hazards.

INTERIORS (IN) It is normal for interior walls and ceilings to develop minor imperfections such as nail pops, loose metal edging, seams opening and settlement/shrinkage cracks. These conditions, are typically in addition to the normal wear and tear. These shortcomings are typically cosmetic in nature and are not reported as part of this inspection. Prior to repainting have a qualified drywall/plaster specialist “point-up” the imperfections. Handrails should be present at all interior stairways and balconies. The railings must be secure to the wall or floor. Railings must be able to withstand impacts and have the minimal baluster spacing as dictated by local jurisdictional requirements. (typically four inch maximum spacing.) Interior passage doors should open, close and latch as designed. This is a matter of assuring privacy when wanted as well as being a safety issue. Doors that rub on the jambs or carpet can hinder emergency escapement for children. For even heat/cooling distribution interior passage doors should have a minimum of ¾ “ (1” if the house is equipped with a heat pump for heating and cooling) clearance at the bottom of the door.

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Windows should open/close and latch as designed. Windows that do not open due to poor maintenance or defective lift mechanisms pose a significant safety hazard in the event of fire. Additionally, windows that have defective life mechanisms can slam shut and cause severe personal injury. Paint, wall paper, and other finish treatments, as well as carpeting on the interior walls, ceilings, and floors are not part of this inspection.

INSULATION AND VENTILATION (IV) Excessive moisture in homes is often caused by inadequate ventilation and/or lack of insulation. Condensation in attics can cause early failure of the roof sheathing as well as the development of mildew and mold. Mildew and mold can have adverse health effects on the occupants of the home. Condensation is usually due to inadequate ventilation at the attic. This condition can be cured by adding ridge/soffit vent or root vents. If the home is equipped with a functioning humidifier, assure that its control is not set above 35-40% relative humidity and that it is functioning as designed. Attic fans with both thermostatic and humidity controls are available. For optimum heating and cooling cost savings the attic insulation should be at least R-30 and preferably R-38. Adding insulation is often a do-it-yourself project - - however, observe the manufacturers recommendations for personal protection. Crawl spaces should be well insulated at the wood floor system to prevent cold floors. Additionally, crawl space wall vents should be opened in the summer and closed in the winter. Also, plastic vapor barrier material on the dirt floor of crawl space helps to control moisture penetration into the living space of the house. Perimeter insulation installed on the inside of the foundation walls and on the underside of the wood floor systems can greatly improve the warmth of the first floor of the house. It is essential that the insulation, albeit fiberglass or foam, be installed per the manufacturers recommendations. Before spending large amounts of money to improve the crawl space insulation, you must assure that the crawl space remains dry. - - - see Structural Components (SC).

FIREPLACE AND SOLID FUEL BURNING APPLIANCES (FP) Fireplaces and gas-fired fireplaces should be checked, before release of the inspection contingency, by a qualified specialist. Ideally, the flues should be inspected with a camera that is designed for that purpose. Additionally, fireplaces should be checked at least once a year for deterioration and/or creosote build-up. Pellet burners should be similarly checked for condition.

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LIFE EXPECTANCIES/COSTS OF SOME MAJOR COMPONENTS OF THE HOME Approximated cost information can vary widely with brand, quality, size, etc. DO NOT USE AS FIRM COST FIGURES – OBTAIN BONIFIDE BIDS Gas-fired hot-air furnace Oil-fired hot air furnace Gas-fired hot water boiler

Heat Pump (Condensing unit only) (Condensing unit plus air handler) Central Air Conditioning Gas-Fired Water Heater Electric Water Heater 3 –tab Fiberglass Shingles (over existing shingles) (tear off existing shingles) Rubber Membrane Roof Wood Shake Roof (tear off existing shakes) Install Aluminum Gutters And Downspouts Main Electrical Panel W/ Service Cable Add Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters At Required Locations Or To Replace 2-Prong Ungrounded Outlets Install Flue Liner In Masonry Chimney (Cement Or Metal Liner & Cap) Install Top-Of-Chimney Damper For Fireplace Replace heat shields in ZeroClearance Fireplace Or Regrout Firebrick In Masonry Fireplace Replace Dishwasher Replace Disposer Replace Kitchen Stove

Typical life is 18-20 years –usually the heat exchanger fails. Approximate replacement cost is $1,400 to $2,000+ Typical life is 18-20 years – usually the oil gun or the heat exchanger fails. Approximate replacement cost is $1,800 to $2,400+ Typical life is 30 years for steel cased unit –usually rusts through Approximate replacement cost is $3,000+ Typical life is 40-50 years for cast iron boiler – usually systems fail Approximate replacement cost is $4,000+ Typical life is 10-12 years- usually the condensing unit fails first Approximate replacement cost Is $1,600 to $2,000+ Approximate replacement cost is $4,000 to $4,500+ Typical life is 15-18 years – usually the outside condensing unit fails first Approximate replacement cost is $1,400 to $1,600+ Typical life is 10-12 years – usually the tank fails and develops leaks Approximate replacement cost is $450 to $800+ depending on size Typical life is 10-12 years – usually an element or the tank fails Approximate replacement cost is $400 to $700+ depending on size Typical life is 18- 20 years – usually general material failure, leaks Approximate cost per square (100SF) is $120 to $175+ Approximate cost per square (100SF) is $200 to $255+ Typical life is 20+ - years – depending on maintenance Approximate cost per square (100SF) is $300 to $450+ Typical life is 15-25 years – depending on maintenance Approximate cost per square (100SF) is $300 to $500 Typically replace only if beyond reasonable repair Approximate cost per lineal foot is $3.00 to $3.50 + Typically replace only if it has undersized capacity Approximate replacement cost is $900 to $1,200+ Typically added to enhance personal safety, reduce electrical shock hazards Typical cost for each installed GFCI is $35 to $75+

Required only if present liner fails Typical cost is $900 to $1,500+ depending on type and complexity Required only if original damper fails Typical cost is $400 to $500+ Required only if original is damaged or has failed Typical cost is $200 to $500+ depending on type and complexity Typical cost is $400 to $900+ depending on quality of unit Typical cost is $200 to $350+ depending on size and quality Typical cost for gas or electric is $525 to $900+

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Replace Range Hood Over Stove (Vented or Non-Vented) Replace Existing Vent Fan in Bathroom Install New Vent Fan In Bathroom – Vent to Ext. Replace galvanized, lead or polybutyline service pipe from the street Replace interior galvanized or polybutyline supply pipe Install Vinyl Replacement Windows

Typical cost is $125 to $200+ depending on quality Required only if unit fails Typical cost of replacement fan is $75 to 125+ depending on type. Install for added ventilation and moisture removal Typical cost is $200 to $400+ depending on degree of difficulty Required only if present service pipe fails Typical cost is $1,800 to $2,500 depending on distance and difficulty Required only if present material fails. Typical cost is $1,000 to $5,000+ depending on amount and complexity Install for added comfort, energy saving, enhance home value. Typical average cost per window based on total house replacement is $250 to $400+ each window unit

NOTES:

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HOME INSPECTION REPORT SUMMARY – MAJOR DEFECTS Items in this report found to be defective are generally summarized in this section. Suggested maintenance and repairs as well as some general comments are included on Page Ac of this section. Verbal comments made during the course of the inspection are not necessarily included in this report. “Cost to Cure” information is located at the rear of Part II of this report. Please read the complete report carefully prior to releasing your inspection contingency.

Home Inspection Report Summary - - Maintenance and Repair Items 1

Location: 1st floor bathroom bathtub There is a leak by the center shower/faucet control knob. This is a common plumbing problem. I would recommend a licensed and qualified contractor to perform necessary maintenance.

2.

Location: 1st floor living room ceiling

3.

There is a water mark on the ceiling of the living room of the 1st floor. The source of the leak may be coming from the bathroom in the 2nd floor above. I suspect the leak has been repaired recently because the wall is still wet as indicated on my moisture meter. The area should be monitored to make sure it is no longer leaking. Location: 2nd floor bathroom sink. There is a leak at the faucet when then water is turned on. This is a common plumbing problem. I would recommend a licensed and qualified contactor to perform the necessary maintenance.

Ab

5.

Location: 2nd floor apartment windows The majority of the double hung windows bottom sashes on the second floor apartment would not stay open due to faulty springs. I would recommend a licensed window contractor repair the problem so the windows can open and close properly.

6.

Location: 2nd floor apartment rear bedroom The circuit tester reveals that the outlet has its hot and neutral wires reversed. I would recommend the outlet be fixed by a licensed and qualified contractor.

7.

Location: Basement Balusters should be installed on the handrail leading to the basement. Balusters should not be spaced more than 4 inches apart to prevent small children from falling through. I would recommend a qualified and licensed contractor install the balusters.

8.

Location: Basement The elbow connecting the waste lines indicated here has rusted severely and I recommend it be replaced soon by a licensed and qualified contractor.

Ac

9.

Location: Basement ceiling I suspect the wood indicated here to be suffering from dry rot. I recommend a pest control company further evaluate this problem. If it is indeed dry rot, it would need to be treated with fungicide.

10

11

Location: Back of house. The downspout here is too close to the foundation. It should be extended at least 5 feet away from the foundation of the house. The sewer line has been filled with what appears to be tar and the downspout cannot be reconnected to the sewer line. I recommend installing a downspout extension to divert water away from the foundation. The extension should extend at least 4 feet away from the foundation and set at a slope that moves water away from the foundation. I recommend the work be performed by a licensed and qualified contractor. Location: Staircase at back of the house entrance to the basement. The settlement cracks indicated here are becoming wider with differential movement and hydrostatic pressure and may require repairs soon. Differential cracks can pose a serious tripping hazard and should be corrected as quickly as possible. Some of these cracks are still minor and can be patched by using epoxy, however, larger cracks would have to be further evaluated and repaired by a licensed and qualified contractor. The walls of the staircase are beginning to show signs of spalling and further deterioration from hydrostatic pressure can lead to the staircase walls collapsing eventually. I recommend a licensed and qualified contractor to evaluate the staircase make necessary repairs.

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12

Location: Back wall of garage. The wall has cracked and exposing insulation inside. I recommend the wall be repaired by a qualified and licensed contractor.

13

Location: Staircase at the front of the house. The bricks on the riser indicated here have deteriorated and is a trip hazard. I recommend the staircase to be repaired by a licensed and qualified contractor.

General Comments

Items/ Systems

Some important items/systems which may require possible repair or replacement within three years are listed for your planning. “Cost to replace” information is located at the rear of Part II of this report. This information is based on appearance, condition, age and typical life expectancy.

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