Spain

WORLD HERITAGE CITY

T A B L E

O F

C O N T E N T S

Introduction

1

ITINERARIES IN THE CITY I- Hanging Houses - Cathedral - San Pedro - Castle Las Angustias - San Miguel II- Plaza Mayor - Torre Mangana - San Felipe - Parish Church of El Salvador - Torre de San Gil - Church of Santa Cruz III- Panorama of the Gorges IRELAND The Three Museums of the City Dublín ITINERARIES THROUGH THE PROVINCE I- A Nature Adventure UNITED KINGDOM II- Ciudad Encantada - Source of the Cuervo River London III- From Cañaveras to Beteta IV- Historic Route V- La Mancha VI- Towards La Alcarria Paris VII- From Cuenca to Valverde VIII- Defensive Architecture

3 6 8 9

11 12 14 15 16 18 19 20

Lisbon

POR TUG

AL

Other Places of Interest 21 FRANCE 22 Useful Information Addresses and telephone Numbers of Interest 24

SPAIN Madrid

u CUENCA C

Secretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYME Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda

Ceuta Melilla Rabat

MOROCCO

T U R E S P A Ñ A

Text: Manuel Fernández Translation: J. West Photographs: TURESPAÑA Archives Layout: Megacolor, S.A. Printed by: EGRAF, S.A. D. L.: M. 40416-1998 Nipo: 104-98-022-9 1st Edition Printed in Spain

S

ituated at the eastern extreme of the region called Castilla-La Mancha, the province of Cuenca has an area of 17,061 square kilometers divided into three different relief sections: La Serranía to the north and east, consisting of low mountains of pine forests with deeply chiseled gorges in a karstic landscape of amazing beauty; La Alcarria to the west, next to the province of Guadalajara, has wide plains and gentle reddish hills and is devoted to agriculture; and lastly, to the south is La Mancha, the vast flatlands of the Castilian plains made famous by Don Quijote. The climate, characterized by long winters and short hot summers and an average annual temperature of twelve degrees Centigrade (54º F) produces a rich and varied vegetation, including forests of pine trees, junipers, holm oak, beech and even birch. Serranía de Cuenca Farmland is devoted to growing grains, such as wheat and barley, except in La Mancha, where sunflowers, saffron, grapevines and olive trees are widely spread through the land.The province has a population of 230,000, and around 45,000 live in the capital city.

HISTORY Set between the Mediterranean and the interior of the Iberian peninsula, Cuenca was a crossroads and a meeting place for various cultures which have left their imprint. Cave paintings from the Neolithic period can be found in the gorges of the rivers (Villar del Humo); Bronze Age idols, such as the famous one from Chillarón; Cuenca

1

Hanging Houses

cinerary urns from the Iron Age and Celtiberian settlements throughout the province; great Roman cities like Segóbriga, Valeria and Ercávica, which were sees of bishops at the end of the 4th century.The arrival of the Moors caused a change in the spatial distribution by building numerous fortresses on natural defensive positions, among which ''Kunka" stood out, present-day Cuenca, which would later control a "Cora" or district. King Alfonso VIII subdued the city for the Christians in the year 1177, granting it local privileges and rights while giving equal rights to Jews, converts, Christians and Muslims.This was the basis for the cultural development it would subsequently achieve, comparable to other great Spanish cities, such as Toledo and 2

Córdoba. During the 15th and 16th centuries, aided by the textile industry, important artisan activities flourished, and the city reached its greatest splendor. After the 17th century, with the decline of the textile industry, a profound decadence took hold. Presently, the city is undergoing a period of prosperity, thanks to the burgeoning tourist industry. Visitors are attracted to the rich remains of its historic past, the beauty of the landscapes and the hospitality of its residents.

Iintineraries theCity The picturesque old quarter of Cuenca is perched on a hilltop above two deep gorges carved by the Júcar and Huécar rivers. Cuenca was declared a World Heritage City by the UNESCO on December 7, 1996. Handsome old mansions with windows covered with wrought-iron grilles (a notable industry in the region) dot the streets and squares of the old quarter, alternating with interesting churches and convents. Strolling through the streets is the best way to get to know the city and its monuments. The heart of the old quarter is the Plaza Mayor, where the Calle San Pedro leads northeast and Calle Alfonso VIII, southwest. Branching off these streets are others that will take us to the different places on our itineraries. Finally, the paths that border the outer area of the rocks called las Rondas, let us view the majestic gorges chiseled by the Júcar and Huécar rivers. An overnight visit is recommended in order to see the city illuminated on weekends.

Itinerary I

Hanging Houses -Cathedral - San Pedro Castle - Las Angustias - San Miguel

Setting out from the Plaza Ronda, the itinerary begins at the Hanging Houses (1), known as the Casas Colgadas, Cuenca's landmark. Their best facades overhang the Huécar gorge (see panorama of the gorges) and are best viewed from the Puente San Pablo (footbridge). Their origin dates back to the 14th century when they extended along the

banks of the river. These old houses were originally made of plaster and wood and are typical examples of popular Cuenca architecture. Only three houses remain today, occupied by the outstanding Museum of Spanish Abstract Art and a restaurant. The next stop is the Cathedral (2) in the Plaza Mayor or main square, reached by way of the

3

car Hué

4 Pl. del Trabuco

3

n liá Ju de e d lle Ca Calle r úca del J Ronda

P

N

RR

ET ER A Puente de San Pablo

Río

Sa R om n er Pl. San Ped o ro Nicolás

A

5

CA

2 1

i

Plaza Ronda

Z HO

6

Ayuntamiento Plaza Cecilio

Calle Obispo Valero. One of the finest monuments in Cuenca, it dates from the 12th-13th centuries, although some elements are more recent, making it an interesting mixture of different styles. Gothic in design with AngloNorman inspiration, it is the only Spanish Cathedral of this particular style. Its construction was ordered by Queen Leonor de Plantagenet, wife of Alfonso VIII

Cathedral facade

4

who installed his court here for ten years. The facade of the Cathedral has undergone various transformations. Although finished at the end of the 13th century, in the 18th century the facade partially collapsed due to structural problems, and a new one was built in the baroque style. At the beginning of the 20th century, new problems arose which required that a new facade be built. Begun in 1910, the facade is still unfinished. Three different phases can be distinguished in the interior, while incorporating some later elements. The transept, the polygonal apse and groin vaults are Norman in style. The triforium, running along the upper part of the nave, and the flying buttresses are from a second phase. The ambulatory, similar to the one in the Cathedral of Toledo, pertains to the 15th century. The Chapel of Los Muñoz, the Chapel of the Santo Espíritu, the cloister of Juan de Herrera and the magnificent Arch of Jamete are Renaissance additions. The Chapel of El Sagrario, the high altar, and the Transparente by Ventura Rodríguez are baroque in style. The grilles enclosing some of the chapels are extraordinary works of wrought-iron from the School of Cuenca. One of

the finest grilles adorns the Chapel of the Apostles. The Cathedral was restored at the beginning of the 90's. The stained-glass windows are modern from the WorkshopSchool of Cuenca AltaCooperativa Vitrea. To reach our next stop, there are two alternatives on two parallel streets radiating from the Plaza Mayor, and each one is an interesting route. The Calle Julián Romero provides us with views of the Huécar gorge. The Calle San Pedro leads into the monumental old quarter, center of city life in the 16th century,

Cathedral interior

with mansions of nobles embellished with handsome facades. Some of these splendid homes were later turned into

convents. On this street, we find the site of the oldest church in Cuenca, San Pantaleón, with only a Gothic arch and part of the sanctuary with a splayed window still standing. At the end of the street in the Plaza del Trabuco, we come upon the Gothic Church of San Pedro (3); octagonal from the outside and round inside, the temple was reconstructed in the 18th century. In the same square, the convent of the Carmelites was renovated to house the International University of Menéndez Pelayo. Baroque in style, the building lacks a portico, possibly because of the limited space existing between the street and edge of the Huécar gorge. The interior is centered around a columned courtyard. Proceeding on the Calle del Trabuco, we come to the ruins of a castle (4), an Arab fortress built at the beginning of the 10th century, though only walls remain. Also in the high part of the city, we find a sober building constructed as a prison for the Inquisition in the 17th century; it has been restored to house the Historical Archives of the province. To reach the Hermitage of the Virgen de las Angustias (5), we must return to the Plaza del Trabuco and take the Ronda del Júcar, a splendid walk with views of the gorge. A short distance away, a street to the right leads to the shrine. The lovely setting lends itself to a short rest. The small late 14th century church was enlarged in 1576. This hall-

5

church is covered by a vault. Returning to the Ronda, we come upon the Gothic Church of San Miguel (6). Concerts are held here during the Festival of Religious Music.

Church of San Miguel

Itinerary II

Plaza Mayor - Torre Mangana - San Felipe - Parish Church of El Salvador Torre de San Gil - Church of Santa Cruz

This route begins at the Plaza Mayor (7), the harmonious main square boasting a 17th century Town Hall (Ayuntamiento) consisting of two sections and frieze above three semicircular arches, topped with a divided curved pediment in the style of the period. Opposite the Town Hall is the Convent of the Justinians, known as "Las Petras". It was founded in the 16th century, although the elliptical church dates from the 18th century. The ornamentation on the altars and niches was sculpted according to drawings by Ventura Rodríguez. Passing through the arches supporting the

Town Hall to the so-called "anteplaza", we find the Convent of the Esclavas. The Calle del Fuero leads to the Plaza de la Merced, where we find the Convent of Las Blancas and the Conciliar Seminary, both baroque in style. Proceeding on the Calle

Outdoor cafe in the Plaza Mayor

6

Santa María, we arrive at the Torre Mangana (8), a tower which formed part of the Arab fortress in the old district of the Alcazar, today the clock in the tower marks the time for the city. From here, there are excellent

Torre Mangana

vistas of the modern part of the city and the Júcar river. To the right of the esplanade, we have the Bajada del Carmen, a steep narrow street leading to the Church of San Felipe Neri (9) on the Calle Alfonso VIII. The plain facade of the church contrasts markedly with the interior, a multi-colored rococo array of gold and polychrome, other decorative elements and many curves and countercurves. This monument is representative of 18th century Spanish architecture and was restored in the 80's by the Workshop-School of Cuenca. Proceeding down the narrow street called Madre de Dios, we come out at the Parish Church of El Salvador (10). Its graceful bell tower heralds us from afar. The iron grille over the doorway is one of the best examples of Cuenca wrought-iron work. The church has a single nave with several baroque altarpieces. Near San Felipe, a stop at the romantic Rincón de los Poetas (Poets Corner) is next on the agenda, where we find the 16th century Torre de San Gil (11). This tower gives us a view of the so-called "skyscrapers", popular dwellings adapted to the uneven terrain. The Calle del Matadero Viejo and the Bajada de Santa Catalina lead to the Church of Santa Cruz (12), recently restored and presently the site of the "Centro Comercial de Artesanos" of Cuenca. Here

7

you can find and purchase handcrafted articles from all over the province. The shopping arcade opens Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; closed Mondays. On our return to the Plaza Mayor via the Calle Santa Catalina and the Bajada de San Martín, we can view the "skyscrapers of San

Alfonso VIII Street

Martín" to the left, and the Huécar river to the right.

Itinerary III

Panorama of the Gorges

The following route in the direction of Ciudad Encantada is a journey by car on the CU-921 road which runs parallel to the Júcar gorge (Hoz de Júcar); a pleasant ride in the countryside and for a panoramic view of the city. Our starting point is the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la Luz (13) (Avenida de los Alfares), one of the most Trabuco

Ronda

14 P CA

RR

A

án

Río

Sa R om n er Pl. San Ped o ro Nicolás

L PA

OM

ER

8

Palacio de an Justicia Ju . Ca le J Calle Palafox C. del Fuente de Re la Doncella

Frances

NO RI MÉ

Plaza del Carmen rera

Cab

s

o VIII Alfons Ca le a .Catalin Sta Calle

R CA JÚ

E LL CA

SÉ JO

. C. A

C. A.

L

N

13

Pl. de la Merced

te

Z HO

Plaza Cecilio

DE

PALOME

Plaza Ronda Ayuntamiento

RA

A

i

jo. C. M. Vie DE CTRA.

r úca del J

li Ju de e d lle Ca Calle

ET ER A Pue te de San Pablo

important religious rococo works, with a Plateresque doorway. Another possibility is to start out from the Plaza Mayor, continuing on the Calle San Pedro to the Plaza del Trabuco and from there, passing by the castle and taking the road on the left to view the Júcar gorge. The road passes amid magnificent landscapes in relaxing surroundings. The other route by car is to view the Huécar gorge (Hoz del Huécar). The road to the right past the castle leads to a stunning view of the city rising above the gorge. Approximately six kilometers away, a hotel Audito serves as a reference point to return to Cuenca via the CU-914. The Huécar river is on our right and the road runs parallel to it. This da Va P. particular ride is also je O len de c very popular with the

residents of Cuenca. The itinerary concludes at the Convent of San Pablo (14) with a 17th century church with a baroque doorway and a Gothic vault. The convent has been restored and is presently a Parador hotel. The view from here is very impressive, with the Hanging Houses opposite us and the San Pablo footbridge suspended over the Huécar gorge.

Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la Luz

Parador de Turismo (former convent of San Pablo)

The Three Museums of the City The museums included in this section are located around the Plaza Mayor. They were not discussed during the city itineraries so that each individual can choose the appropriate time for a visit. There is also a Science Museum under construction. Diocesan Museum

Diocesan Museum (2) Installed in the Bishop's Palace on the Calle Obispo Valero next to the Cathedral, it occupies fourteen rooms on three floors. The museum houses treasures from the centuries of splendor

enjoyed in the city (15th-18th centuries). As in many church museums, it houses liturgical elements, in addition to some Flemish tapestries, goldsmiths' work, rugs from the old workshops, important paintings

9

of three floors organized chronologically. There are collections pertaining to geology, paleontology, prehistory, Roman Spain and the medieval world. Open: Tuesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays open mornings only. Closed Mondays. Free admission Saturday afternoons and Sundays. w 969 21 30 29 69.

Río

Sa R om n er Pl. San Ped o ro Nicolás

2

i N

15

1 Plaza Ronda

Ayuntamiento

10

A

MERA

III nso V a Catalin

Plaza Cecilio Pl. de la Merced

has one of the best collections of its kind in Europe. The design and illumination of the rooms and works of art, the surrounding landscapes, the preservation of the murals originally here, the Gothic lattice windows and Mudejar coffered ceiling, in addition to the works of art themselves, are more than sufficient reasons to warrant a visit. Paintings by Canogar, Feito, Mompó, Saura, Tormer and Zóbel are represented, along with sculptures by Chillida, Chirimo, Oteiza and Serrano. Open: Tuesday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Saturdays open until 8 p.m. Sundays open mornings only. Closed Mondays. w 969 21 29 83.

Museum of Spanish Abstract Art (1) Situated in the Hanging Houses, this museum was inaugurated in 1966 through the initiative of the painter Fernando Zóbel and

RA ME LO PA

Archeological Museum

A

Located at Calle Obispo Valero 6, the museum is housed in the 16th century building that was once the city's granary. It consists

n liá Ju de

Provincial Archeological Museum (15)

r

(two El Greco's), sculptures (a "Dolorosa" by Pedro de Mena) and a Byzantine dyptych. Open: Tuesday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Saturdays open until 8 p.m. Sundays open mornings only. Closed Mondays. w 969 22 42 10.

Museum of Abstract Art

tineraries Ithrough the

Itinerary I After departing from Cuenca on the N-420 road in the direction of Teruel, a turnoff to the left at Km. 11 leads to Las Torcas Secas, circular depressions formed by underground springs, some with steep sides and covered with trees. The largest concentration is found in Los Palancares; a curious phenomenon to stimulate the

Torcas de Agua

imagination. Continuing again on the N-420, the road passes by Fuentes (Km. 18), a town with a Romanesque church and the source of the Moscas river. After another turnoff to the left, we come to Cañada del Hoyo, site of

Province A Nature Adventure

more depressions called Las Torcas de Agua. Here in Los Oteros, a group of small lagoons, some appropriate for swimming and fishing, are pleasant reasons for stopping. Nearby, the Hermitage of Los Angeles is the destination of a romería (pilgrimage to a shrine) on the 15th of September. Once again on the N-420, in Carboneras de Guadazaón (Km. 42), it is worthwhile to visit the 16th century Dominican convent with a Renaissance doorway. A turnoff to the left leads to Pajaroncillo in the mountains. One kilometer away in Selva Pascuala, travelers have two alternatives: Levantine-style cavepaintings or the grandiose rocks of eroded sandstone at Las Corbeteras.

11

Moya

While there, the castle ruins and a pre-Roman castro-type settlement should not be overlooked. At kilometer 69, Cañete boasts an important historic ensemble: 9th10th century Arab walls with five gates and a porticoed plaza where the Town Hall (Ayuntamiento) stands nobly. Birthplace of Alvaro de la Luna, favorite of Juan II, the 16th-17th century Church of San Julián also warrants a visit. This route could conclude 16 kilometers away in Salvacañete, known for Celtiberian remains, the castle of Torrefuerte and the cross of the three queens, although more adventurous travelers may

Itinerary II

Ciudad Encantada - Source of the Cuervo River

The CU-921 road connects Cuenca with Villalba de la Sierra (Km. 23), a township on the banks of the Júcar and a popular tourist destination. Its inhabitants are experts in the art of working with wood and basketry. Travelers now find themselves at the start of the Serranía de Cuenca, a succession of abrupt landscapes covered by a dense mass of pine trees bordering the

12

choose between two other alternatives: a) Boniches, a town between Pajaroncillo and Cañete (a turnoff to the right from the N-420); waterfalls on the Cabriel river in El Troqueadero; Fuentelespino de Moya (Arab tower); Landete mineral water springs of Fuente Podrida, and Moya in the eastern extreme of the province, a ghost town and former Marquisate, as well as a strategic spot between Castile, Aragón and Valencia, with a 13th century castle, fortress, old walls and a Gothic church b) or Carboneras de Guadazaón to Arguisuelas (CU-501); Yémeda (mineral waters) and Cardenete (a splendid Arab ceiling in the church). Three different destinations are possible from here: Villar del Humo (renowned for caves preserving prehistoric rock paintings); Villora (castle remains) or South to find the head of Contreras reservoir in Enguídanos.

El Ventano del Diablo

Cuervo, Júcar and Escabas rivers, a national hunting reserve since 1973. After Villalba, a bend in the road announces El Ventano del Diablo (Devil's Window) (Km. 24), a natural lookout point over the Júcar gorge. A turnoff (CU-913) leads to the Ciudad Encantada (Enchanted City) (Km. 30); not really a city but a fantastic geological wonder where wind and water have run riot with nature. Thousands of years of erosion have sculpted the limestone rocks calling forth figures from the visitor's imagination which resemble a Roman bridge, a boat keel, a stone ship, a whale, etc. Heading in the direction of Uña (CU-921), known for its lagoon, the landscape shows its splendor in Huélamo, a town suspended on the mountainside. Following the course of the Júcar river, the road widens in Tragacete (Km. 70), a magnificent mountain hamlet with remarkable scenery. From here, the source of the Júcar river is only a short distance away as is Vega del Codorno, where in the Alto de la Vega, the Cuervo river unveils an

astounding sight with water emerging little by little to form waterfalls. Next is Tejadillos, a natural monument of woodlands and 10 kilometers away, El Hosquillo, a nature park and hunting reserve at the head of the Escabas river. Permission to visit the park is required in advance from Delegación de Agricultura de la Junta de Comunidades de Castilla - La Mancha. From here, the same local road leads to Las Majadas, a peaceful town, famous for making icons, and to Los Callejones, a spot where the wind has played capriciously with the terrain. Afterwards, we return to Villalba, and this itinerary is brought to an end.

Huélamo Source of the Cuervo River

13

Itinerary III This route starts out from Cañaveras, 45 kilometers northwest of the capital on the N-320. From here, the C-202 leads to Villaconejos de Trabaque, where we can find wine caves tunneled in the rock, hand-crafted wicker items, and the archeological remains of Los Villares.

Priego

Priego (Km. 56), in addition to ancient traditions of basketmaking and glazed pottery with Iberian influences, boasts various treasures: the Gothic Church of San Nicolás de Bari, restored in the 19th century, and which

14

From Cañaveras to Beteta displays the famous painting of the Virgen de las Angustias; the Convent of Santa María del Rosal (16th century), and the Monastery of San Miguel de las Victorias (16th-17th century), destination of the romería (pilgrimage to a shrine) of the Santísimio Cristo (September 14th) and the image of Cristo de la Caridad by Carmona. From Cañamares, a town with two formidable gorges and a Romanesque church, a right-hand turn leads to Fuertescusa, where the hollow carved by the Escabas river in the Boca del Infierno can be explored. Once again on the road, we pass by Cañizares and in Vadillos, a short detour leads to Solán de Cabras, known for its mineral water spring. Continuing on our route, the gorges of Alonjero, Tragavivos and Beteta are fascinating sights. Some of the structures in Beteta (Km. 75) merit a visit: old walls, a parish church with a Gothic-Plateresque doorway and a splendid altarpiece, as well as the Plaza

Beteta

Itinerary IV Our starting point is Tarancón, and travelers will have to find the point where the N-400 and the N-III intersect. Tarancón offers all types of diversions, including shopping, restaurants, hotels, etc. Its cheeses and "chorizo" (scarlet sausage flavored with chilli) are famous, although its major attraction is the Shrine of Nuestra Señora de Riansares. It is said that the Visigoth king Reccared carried an image of Our Lady of Riansares

Mayor (main square). Also worthwhile is a stop at the castle of Rocafría for the wonderful views. We can return to Cuenca by the same route we took to get here, although more adventurous travelers may wish to turn off in Priego on the CU-900 to see the medieval towns of Valdeolivas and Vindel, the former with a 12th century church that has been restored.

Historic Route

when he went to battle. This former ducal villa has a splendid altarpiece and a Renaissance doorway in the Gothic church. The route takes us now to the town of Uclés, after turning off the N-III. Prehistoric in origin, its chief attraction is the Monastery of the knightly Order of Santiago, built by Francisco de Mora, a disciple of the great Spanish architect Herrera (16th century). The massive appearance and defensive aspect indicates the town’s turbulent past. It is also known as the "Escorial of La Mancha" or the "Little Escorial" (El Escorial is the imposing monastery near Madrid built by

Uclés

15

Philip II). The baroque facade is a jewel of Spanish art, and in the interior, there is a superb 16th century double cloister with a magnificent Moorish cistern in the center. The refectory has a fine coffered ceiling, and the church houses an original Francisco Ricci, the tombs of Rodrigo Manrique, Grand Master of Santiago, and his son Jorge Manrique, the poet. This road (CU-701) also leads to Carrascosa del Campo, an ancient town which warrants a visit to see the Church of the Natividad with its splendid Isabelline Gothic facade (15th-16th century). Our next stop is Saelices (CU-702), and just beyond are the Roman ruins of Segóbriga, consisting of a theater, amphitheater, thermal baths, Celtiberian walls and the remains of a 5th century Visigoth basilica. Adjacent is a small museum with relics from the settlement. Before returning to the capital, we should visit the nearby towns of Montalbo (ruins of a castle), Zafra

Itinerary V

Belmonte

By taking the N-420 from the capital, it is possible to visit various

16

Roman ruins of Segóbriga in Saelices

de Záncara and Torrebuceit, a short distance from the N-III to the left (both former Arab towns, the latter with an important 12th century castle-palace), Palomares del Campo with a church boasting a Renaissance doorway and housing the chapel of the Alarcón, and Torrejoncillo del Rey (Herreran-style church). All of these towns are situated between the regional roads of CU-703 and CU-704. We regain the N-400 at Naharros (church with a Romanesque apse) to return to Cuenca.

La Mancha interesting towns: Puente de Castellar (Arab bridge), San Lorenzo de la Parilla (blanket manufacturing), La Almarcha (lagoon with a legend), Alconchel de la Estrella (Roman road) until reaching Villaescusa de Haro (Km. 93), birthplace of Luis Astrana Marín, author of the world famous biography ”Life of Cervantes”. It was the capital of the former Lordship of Haro (eleven bishops were born on just one of its streets).

There is also an important group of monuments: a Dominican convent, a former university, a collegiate church. Its magnificent parish church has a grille with three Flamboyant Gothic arches and a splendid Gothic altarpiece. In nearby Belmonte (Km. 100), visitors find themselves in the midst of the "Route of Don Quixote". Birthplace of the great 16th century religious writer and poet Fray Luis de León, the entire town is considered a well-preserved monument of tourist interest. The elegant castle, once a refuge of Doña Juana la Beltraneja, has been the setting of numerous films. The collegiate church of San Bartolomé contains the choir stalls from the Cathedral of Cuenca and the font at which Fray Luis was baptized. The ruins of the palace-fortress of Don Juan Manual are also of interest. Processional figures parade in Belmonte during Holy Week, particularly one by the famous Murcian sculptor Salcillo. The wrought-iron work from Belmonte is world-famous. Ten and seventeen kilometers away respectively, we find the roadside towns of El Pedernoso (altarpiece) and Las Pedroñeras (incredible production of garlic), a prelude to our arrival at Mota del Cuervo. A stone’s throw between Ciudad Real and Toledo,

the chief attractions in Mota are the picturesque windmills. The "Balcony of la Mancha", as it is also called, is famous for its wines and traditional Arab pottery made exclusively by women.

Mota del Cuervo

To return to Cuenca from Mota, either take the same route or travel through the towns of Los Hinojosos (two towns in one), Osa de la Vega, Fuentelespino de Haro (Celitiberian town), Villarejo de Fuentes to get to Montalbo and continue on the return route in itinerary four. Castle in Belmonte

17

Itinerary VI We start this route in the western part of the province in the noble villa of Huete, after coming from Carrascosa del Campo (N-400 and C-202). Bearing a rich heritage, Huete once competed with Cuenca to be the capital, and they shared administrative tasks for two centuries.

Huete

There was a time when Huete had fourteen parish churches at once. There are many other public, private and religious buildings. Huete still preserves many religious traditions also. During the month of May, recreations of the battles between the Jews and Moors, and juanistas take to the streets to the beat of small drums and the dulzaina (a pipe-like folk instrument). Our attention will most certainly be drawn to the Convent of La Merced (neoclassical), the 16th century Churches of Santa

18

Towards la Alcarria María (Ionic columns in the doorway), San Nicolás, and San Pedro. A relaxing stroll through La Chopera Park is a pleasant way to pass the time. From Huete, the C-202 passes by fields of grain and leads to La Peraleja and Gascueña. This latter town still preserves medieval defensive structures. From here, a short detour leads to the city of Villalba del Rey. Built-up between the 16th and 17th centuries, the town has a fascination with legends, especially in springtime surrounding the painting of Christ of the Consuelo (the "miracle-maker"), attributed to a former beggar. Next to Villalba and near Cañaveruelas and the Buendía reservoir, we find Ercávica, a Hispano-Roman city in ruins. Remains of the old city may be seen in the Archeological Museum of Cuenca.

From here, via Alcohujate, we take the N-320 to return to the capital.

La Peraleja

Itinerary VII

From Cuenca to Valverde

Heading in the direction of Albacete, a short distance on the N-320 road leads to the turnoff for Arcas (Km. 11), a small town where the stones tell the story of a prominent bishopric in the past. The Romanesque church is considered an architectural jewel in Castile-La Mancha, as well as a notable example of the pure southern Romanesque style. It dates from the 12th century and the simple beauty of the doorway more than justifies a visit. In the atrium, a 13th century baptismal font is Arcas

preserved, and in the interior, the last concert is held during the Festival of Religious Music of Cuenca. Taking the same local road as we did to get to Arcas, 23 kilometers later we reach the ruins of Valeria, an ancient city and one of the three Roman cities of Cuenca in the process of excavation and a former bishop’s see.

19

Roman city of Valeria

Valera de Abajo (Km. 41) has a number of tourist attractions, including the palace of the Dukes of Granada, the rectory and the Church of La Asuncion. The Castilian-style furniture

Itinerary VIII During the lengthy Reconquest of Spain from the Moors, Cuenca went through various periods without actually belonging to anyone; sometimes Muslim, other times Christian. This resulted in a perfect place for battles. Our starting point is Castillo de Garcimuñoz, near La Almarcha (N-III and N-420) and is already on itinerary five. In addition to the Arab castle with a lovely Renaissance doorway, this town will always be remembered as the place where the great Spanish author Jorge Manrique lost his life. Other nearby towns with castles are Santa María del Campo Rus and La Alberca de Záncara. The latter has a Gothic parish church and is also famous for its cheeses.

20

manufactured here is widely acclaimed. From Valera to Valverde de Júcar, the route begins to form a circle that points the traveler in the direction of the capital. In Valverde, the festival of the Santo Niño (Moors and Christians) is of special interest. From here, via Albadalejo de Cuende, we come to La Parra de las Vegas, with interesting hermitages and Valdeganga and the breathtakingly beautiful gorge of the Tótola river. This was a social gathering place in the 19th century because of the health spas and baths here. The N-420 will take us back to Cuenca again.

Defensive Architecture Next, heading towards the C-311, we find San Clemente and Santiago de la Torre castle. Although founded in the 10th century, strong Renaissance influence can be seen in the charming Plaza Mayor (an arcaded main square with large windows), in the 16th century Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) and in the 15th century parish church. On Easter Sunday, they celebrate a Castle in Castillo de Garcimuñoz

famous auction in San Clemente to see who carries the figure of the Virgin. Finally, the route concludes after getting on the N-III to reach Alarcón, but first we should stop in El Cañavate to see the castle, some Roman ruins and a church with a Renaissance doorway. As we approach Alarcón, the once impregnable Moorish castle rises majestically on a huge rock encircled by the Júcar river. Our attention is drawn to the castle keep, former residence of Prince Don Juan Manual. Today the castle

is a Parador hotel. A stroll through the center of the town and visiting the churches of Santo Domingo de Silos, San Juan Bautista and Santísima Trinidad are also worthwhile. The festivals of Cristo de la Fe (September 14th) and San Sebastián (January 20th) should be highlighted. We return via Motilla del Palancar on the N-320.

Alarcón

Other Places of Interest Motilla del Palancar: located where the N-III and the N-320 intersect on the route to Valencia, the old villa now has all the modern amenities to accommodate tourists. The Renaissance church is of special interest. Villanueva de la Jara: founded by Saint Teresa de Jesus of Ávila, the Gothic parish church and the convent of Santa Ana deserve mentioning. Villanueva de la Jara

21

Useful Information TRANSPORTATION AND LODGING BY ROAD

GETTING AROUND THE CITY

- 160 Km. from Madrid on the N-III E-901 to Tarancón and from there, on the N-400. - 210 Km. from Valencia on the N-III E-901 to La Almarcha and from there, on the N-402. - 152 Km. from Teruel on the N-420. - 146 Km. from Albacete on the N-301 to La Gineta and from there, on the N-320. - 186 Km. from Guadalajara on the N-320.

The best way to get around the old quarter of Cuenca to see the monuments is by foot. There is meter parking up in the old quarter. Parking facilities in the modern part of Cuenca can be found at the Plaza de España and Parque de los Moralejos. A city bus runs between the old quarter and the modern part of the city.

R.A.C.E. (Highway Assistance) w 91 593 33 33. Bus Station. Calle Fermín Caballero, 20, Cuenca. w 969 22 70 87 and 969 22 11 84.

BY TRAIN Daily connections to Madrid and Valencia. RENFE-CUENCA w 969 22 07 20. Train Station. Calle Mariano Catalina.

LODGING The city and province of Cuenca have a variety of hotels available for all tastes and pocketbooks. There are two Parador hotels, one in the capital city of Cuenca and the other in the town of Alarcón. There are also numerous rural lodgings offering travelers the opportunity to spend a distinct type of vacation learning about towns and villages which still preserve their ancient traditions and customs. Parador of Cuenca (4-star rating). Paseo de la Hoz del Huécar, s/n. 16001 Cuenca. w 969 23 23 20. Fax 969 23 25 34. Parador of Alarcón (4-star rating). Avenida Amigos de los Castillos, 3. 16213 Alarcón (Cuenca). w 969 33 03 16. Fax 969 33 03 03. Parador Central Reservation Office. Calle Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid. w 91 516 66 66. Fax 91 516 66 57. Association of Rural Tourism Alcarria Conquense. Plaza Mayor. 16841 Albalate. w 969 31 55 33.

22

TAXIS: Radio Taxi w 969 23 33 43. Taxi stop: Plaza de la Hispanidad. w 969 21 36 66.

OPENING HOURS SHOPS: Most open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. BANKS: Hours vary in summer and winter but generally banks open to the public Monday through Friday between 8:30 and 9 a.m. until 2 or 2:30 p.m. Some banks may open occasionally in the afternoon during the winter or on Saturday mornings. Most branches are located in the modern part of the city and many have automated teller machines. CREDIT CARDS: Most major credit cards are accepted at the majority of hotels, restaurants and shops. CHEMIST/PHARMACY: Called Farmacia in Spanish, it generally keeps the same hours as most shops, but there are always certain ones on duty on Sundays and holidays on a rotation basis. Notices are displayed in the window and in the local newspaper.

HANDICRAFTS AND CUISINE The most characteristic handicrafts are the lovely ceramics. Pottery designs are based on Iberian traditions in Cuenca and Priego and on Arab traditions in Mota del Cuervo. The wicker industry is important in the city of Cuenca, Villalba de la Sierra, and Priego.

by fine wine from the controlled wineproducing areas of La Mancha, such as Mota del Cuervo, El Provencio, Las Pedroñeras, Huete, Pozoamargo and Hiniesta.

FESTIVALS

Handcrafting of ceramics Casasimarro is known for making string instruments, especially guitars. Another activity in this town is hand-knotted rugs. Also significant is the art of hewing stone, not particularly well-known but important in the restoring of stone. In the capital city of Cuenca, the Church of Santa Cruz has been remodeled to house the handicrafts center of the province. Provincial Association of Artisans. w 969 22 82 06. Cuisine from Cuenca combines typical dishes from La Mancha, such as pisto (stewed vegetables with scrambled eggs), lamb, game, and gazpacho manchego (mixed game pâté) with other exclusive local dishes which contribute their own particular characteristics to the cooking in the province. An interesting meal might begin with an original appetizer called zarajos (lamb tripe rolled around skewers and baked in the oven). As a first course, you might order morteruelo, a type of pâté of mixed meats often with a chef’s special touch. Another first course could be ajo arriero, a delicious dish made with salted cod and garlic. As a second course, a good choice would be meat grilled over grapevine prunings or fresh trout from a mountain stream. For desert, there is the typical alajú, an Arab sweet of almonds, honey and figs. Also appetizing are the relatos and suspiros de monja (nun's sighs), soft meringues poached in milk and served with custard. At the end of the meal, a sweet liquor called Resoli is often served, made with coffee, sugar, orange rind and anisette. A good meal should also be accompanied

January: Festivals of Moros y Cristianos in Valverde de Júcar, Valera de Abajo and La Alberca de Záncara. February: Los Diablos in Almonacid. March-April: Holy Week in Cuenca. Procession of the Turbas. May: San Juan and Santa Quiteria in Huete, and Moros y Cristianos in Almendros. Summer: Festivals are held in the entire province. September: San Mateo in Cuenca. Garlic Festival in Las Pedroñeras. The internationally prestigious Festival of Religious Music in Cuenca is held during Holy Week and sometimes the week before. In 1998, the festival celebrated its 37th year.

SPORTS AND LEISURE ACTIVITIES The most popular sports in Cuenca are hunting (small and large game) and fishing. Contact the Mountain, Hunting and Fishing Services at w 969 17 83 00 to confirm hunting and fishing seasons in the area. Hiking is practiced in a number of areas, especially in the Serranía or low mountains of Cuenca. Consult the Tourist Offices for specific routes. There are various health spas called balnearios for visitors desiring a relaxing holiday. The most famous health spa in the region is Solán de Cabras, located in the town of the same name. w 969 31 30 70.

Fishing

23

Useful Information International Telephone Code: 34 TOURIST INFORMATION TURESPAÑA 901 300 600 Tourist Offices: Glorieta González Palencia, 2. w 969 17 88 00. Fax 969 17 88 43 San Pedro, 6. w 969 23 21 19 Board of Tourism and Economic Promotion w 969 23 40 00 Transporation: RENFE (Spanish National Railways). Cuenca. Calle Mariano Catalina. w 969 22 07 20. Bus Station: Fermín Caballero, 20. w 969 22 70 87 & 969 22 11 84 Taxis: Taxi stop. Plaza de la Hispanidad. w 969 21 36 66 Radio Taxi. w 969 23 18 73 Traffic Information: Highway Assistance: w 900 123 505 R.A.C.E. (Highway Assitance): w 91 593 33 33 Postal Services: Post Office. Parque San Julián, 18. w 969 22 10 00 Useful Telephone Numbers: Town Hall (Ayuntamiento) w 969 21 16 00• National Police w 091• Civil Guard w 969 22 11 00• Spanish Red Cross w 969 22 22 00• Municipal Police w 969 22 48 59• Tourist Guides w 969 22 22 88• Auditorium-Theater w 969 23 27 97• Medical Emergencies w 969 22 68 51 Paradors Central Reservation Office. Calle Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid. w 91 516 66 66. Fax 91 516 66 57 Parador de Cuenca. Paseo de la Hoz del Huécar. Cuenca. w 969 23 23 20. Fax 969 23 25 34 Parador de Alarcón. Avenida Amigos de los Castillos, 3. Alarcón (Cuenca). w 969 33 03 15. Fax 969 33 03 03 EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada. Calle Nuñez de Balboa, 35. w 91 431 43 00, Fax 91 431 23 67. Great Britain. Calle Fernando el Santo, 16. w 91 319 02 00, Fax 91 308 10 33. Japan. Calle Serrano, 109. w 91 590 76 00, Fax 91 590 13 21. United States. Calle Serrano, 75. w 91 587 22 00, Fax 91 587 23 03. SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD Canada. Toronto. Tourist Office of Spain. 2 Bloor Street West, 34th floor Toronto, Ontario M4W3E2 w (1416)961 3131, Fax (1416)961 1992 Great Britain. London. Spanish Tourist Office. 22-23 Manchester Square. London W1M5AP w (44171)486 8077, Fax (44171)486 8034 Japan. Tokyo. Tourist Office of Spain. Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg 4F.3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku Tokyo-105 w (813)34 32 61 41-42, Fax (813)34 32 61 44 United States of America Los Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain. 8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960 Beverly Hills, California 90211 w (1213)658 7188 & 658 7192, Fax (1213)658 1061 Chicago. Tourist Office of Spain. Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East 845, North Michigan Avenue. Chicago, Illinois 60611 w (1312)642 1992 & 944 0216, Fax (1312)642 9817 Miami. Tourist Office of Spain. 1221 Brickell Avenue Miami, Florida 33131 w (1305)358 1992, Fax (1305)358 8223 New York. Tourist Office of Spain. 666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floor New York, New York 10103 w (1212)265 8822, Fax (1212)265 88 64

24

CIUDAD ENCANTADA 87 km

CUENCA C ENCA

Hué

car

PALOMERA 10 km

4 Pl. del Trabuco

14 P ER A Puente de San Pablo

A

án

Río

Sa R n om er Pl. San Ped o ro Nicolás

2

jo. C. M. Vie DE

Plaza del Carmen era abr C . C. A

9 11

NO

C. A. lo

s

de

s

Leó

Pl. del Cnal. Paya

Ca lle

an

de

Plaza de los Carros

C. F ray L

P

rq.

P

Vera

P

B lle Mendez

C

E

Ma

OLA LOY

rín DA AV

ÚB

LIC

D lle Ca e F ll A Ca TIN EN RG AA

aur a

lle

lle Ca

Ca

N-320

lle

a tran

i

Ca

s C. A

DE

Casa de Cultura

Ca

IGN P AC IO

ALBACETE 156 km

Sán che z

DE

le al C Polideportivo

Ca le

al rg Sa

NI DA

AV E

C. Pa

A

RC

S. Ju

Plaza Parque España C. San Ju ián J. d eC C. de M. Aylló C. orr n Plaza de la Hn ech os. e r Va Const tuc ón ldé s Diputación Provincial y CA Patronato de Turismo LLE Ca lle CA RR Prin ET ces ER a IA Plaza de la Zaid SA Hispanidad a N BA

N

de

a V P. ale de nc ia

d Oje

da

LA

LÓ

CO

uis

de

Pra

DE

n

Frances G. C.

10

RES CALLE DE OR LAS T

. Ca le J Calle Palafox C. del Fuente de Re la Doncella tiro Calle de los Tintes C. CALDERÓN

es

JO

Palacio de Justicia

Ti nt

an Ju

z de Haro ópe R. L

8

CA

N-320

o VIII Alfons Calle a Catalin ta. S Calle

R CA JÚ

SACEDÓN 87 km

Auditorio

12

RA PALOME

Z SÉ

E

A

HO

Plaza Cecilio Pl. de la Merced

RI

LL

Plaza Ronda

Ayuntamiento

6 DE L

13

1

15

7

ER

i

MÉ

M LO PA

5

CTRA.

r úca del J

li Ju de e d lle Ca Calle

CA RR ET

C.M .

Ronda

3

CONVENTIONAL SIGNS i

Tourist Information Office

N

0 N-320

MADRID 167 km

Post Office

50

100

150

200 m

CARTOGRAFÍA GCAR, S.L. Cardenal S líceo, 35 Tel. 91 4167341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 1998

P

Parador

P

Parking Red Cross Police Station

e a

MONUMENTS AND PLACES OF INTEREST ITINERARY I

ITINERARY II

ITINERARY III

1. Hanging Houses and Museum of Spanish Abstract Art 2. Cathedral, Bishop´s Palace and Diocesan Museum 3. Church of San Pedro 4. Castle 5. Hermitage of the Virgen de las Angustias

6. Church of San Miguel 7. Plaza Mayor 8. Torre Mangana 9. San Felipe Neri 10. Parish Church of El Salvador 11. Torre de San Gil 12. Church of Santa Cruz

13. Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la Luz 14. Convent of San Pablo

THREE MUSEUMS 1. Museum of Spanish Abstract Art 2. Diocesan Museum 15. Provincial Archeological Museum

TURESPAÑA

I

Secretaría de Estado de Comercio,Turismo y PYME Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda