Skin Cleansing with Synthetic Detergents

O. Braun-Falco H.C. Korting (Eds.) Griesbach Conference Skin Cleansing with Synthetic Detergents Chemical, Ecological, and Clinical Aspects With ...
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O. Braun-Falco H.C. Korting

(Eds.)

Griesbach Conference

Skin Cleansing with Synthetic Detergents Chemical, Ecological, and Clinical Aspects

With 89 Figures and 45 Tables

Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg New York London Paris Tokyo Hong Kong Barcelona Budapest

Prof. Dr. med. Dr. h. c. mult. Otto Braun-Falco PO Dr. med. Hans Christian Korting Department of Dermatology University of Munich Frauenlobstrasse 9-11 0-8000 Miinchen 2, FRG

Title of the original German edition: Hautreinigung mit Syndets. © Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 1990

ISBN 978-3-540-55409-7 ISBN 978-3-642-50146-3 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-3-642-50146-3

Library o[Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Griesbach- Konferenz Hautreinigung mit Syndets (1988) Skin cleansing with synthetic detergents: chemical, ecological, and clinical "'peets 1Griesbach Conference: O. Braun-Falco, H.C. Korting, eds. p. em. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-3-540-55409-7 1. Detergents, Synthetic - Toxicology - Congresses. 2. Detergents, Synthetic - Environmental aspects Congresses. 3. Skin - Care and hygiene - Congresses. I. Braun-Falco, Otto. II. Korting, Hans Christian. III. Title. RA1242.D4G75 1988 92-13632

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27/3145-543 2 I 0 - Printed on acid-free paper

Preface

We do not know exactly when Man adopted the civilized habit of washing. However, personal cleansing (of a more or less regular kind) goes back thousands of years. Nowadays, the chief beneficiaries of these ablutional activities are the hands and face, which, being exposed, are more likely to collect dirt and grime. For a long time, the only cleansing agent (apart from plain water) was soap. Today, we have a choice: a new range of substances, the so-called synthetic detergents, have been developed. Unlike soap, these surfactants offer wide formula variability, and have, therefore, become increasingly important for skin cleansing. With our growing perception, not only of the benefits, but also of the possible disadvantages, of skin cleansing agents, it was felt that the time had come for experts from the various disciplines involved in the manufacture and use of skin cleansers to take a critical look at what we know and where we stand. It was also suggested that this stock-taking should extend, equally, to the chemical, ecological, and clinical aspects of the subject. As a result, a meeting of 29 experts - mainly from the fields of chemistry, biology, pharmacy, and medicine - was convened at Griesbach, from 8-10 December, 1988. This monograph reflects the proceedings of the conference, induding the results of the in-depth discussions of the subjects on the agenda. It is hoped that this book will help to spread our present, much enhanced, knowledge of skin cleansing. Neither the conference itself nor the publication of its proceedings would have been possible without the generous support of Sebapharma GmbH & Co., Boppard. Our special thanks are due to Dr. med. Heinz Maurer. Munich, May 1990

O. Braun-Falco . H. C. Korting

Acknowledgement The editors acknowledge the support given by Sebapharma GmbH & Co., D-5407 Boppard 1 - Bad Salzig, in the publication of these Proceedings.

Contents

Preface

o. Braun-Falco and H.

C. Korting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

V

The Use of Synthetic Detergents for Skin Cleansing Historical Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

From Soap Avoidance to Skin Cleansing with Synthetic Detergents - Moving into the Clinical Dimension O. Braun-Falco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Skin Cleanser Chemistry The Chemistry of Synthetic Detergents

9

Synthetic Detergents - Syndets - the Concept K. Schumann ...........................................

11

Soap - Chemical Constituents G. Kolaczinski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

Synthetic Cleansers - Chemical Constituents W. Schneider ...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20

Composition of Commercial Synthetic Skin Cleansers W. Schadenbock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27

The Use of Synthetic Detergents in Oral Hygiene ProductsEffects on the Gingiva W. Weinert. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35

Physiological and Pathophysiological Aspects of the Use of Synthetic Detergents for Skin Cleansing SkinpH ..............................................

41

vm

Contents

The Physics of pH and Surface pH Measurement H. Galster .............................................

43

Determination of Skin Surface pH in Healthy Subjects Methods and Results of Clinical Studies M. Kober..............................................

53

Skin Surface pH in the Population at Large Measured Data and Correlation with Other Parameters K. Klein, H. Evers, and H. W. VofJ ..........................

62

Skin Flora ............................................

73

Principles of Bacterial Ecology

W. Dolt................................................

75

Composition of the Skin Flora

A. A. Hartmann. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83

Marchionini's Acid Mantle Concept and the Effect on the Skin Resident Flora of Washing with Skin Cleansing Agents of Different pH H. C. Korting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

87

In-Vitro Control of the Growth of Important Bacteria of the Resident Skin Flora by Changes in pH A. Lukacs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

97

Skin Surface Structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

107

Structure of Human Skin, and Influence of Environmental Factors Such as pH on the Growth of Keratinocytes Results of Cell Culture Experiments R. Soehnchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

109

Skin Roughness - Measuring Methods and Dependence on Washing Procedure D. Vieluf...............................................

116

Skin Hydration (Transepidermal Water Loss)Measuring Methods and Dependence on Washing Procedure H. Zienicke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

130

Contents

Beneficial Effects of Synthetic Detergent Cleansers in Human Trials Under Simulated Use Conditions

IX

141

Cleansing Action of Synthetic Detergents Methodology of Determination

K. Schrader. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

143

Clinical Assessment of Synthetic Detergent Cleansers in Subjects with Problem Skin

F. Klaschka ............................................

154

Adjuvant Treatment with Synthetic Detergent Preparations in Atopic Dermatitis

W Lechner ............................................

160

The Use of Synthetic Skin Cleansers in Neonates and Infants F. Braun, D. Lachmann, and H. Howanietz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

164

Unwanted Effects of Synthetic Detergent Cleansers when Used in Normal or in Diseased Skin ......................

171

Allergological Evaluation of Synthetic Skin Cleansers 1. Ring and R. Gollhausen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

173

Factors Involved in the Irritancy Testing of Synthetic Cleanser Constituents

R. Gollhausen ..........................................

181

Quality Assurance and Environmental Aspects of Synthetic Detergent Skin Cleansers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

191

Biopharmaceutical Aspects of Synthetic Detergent Skin Cleansers

K. Thoma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

193

Quality Control of Synthetic Detergent Cleansers K. Stanzl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

203

Environmental Aspects of Synthetic Detergent Preparations H. H. Rump ............................................

209

The Use of Synthetic Detergent Skin Cleansers ............. 217 The Use of Synthetic Detergent Skin CleansersThe Cosmetic Chemists's View

H. P. Fiedler. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

219

X

Contents

The Use of Synthetic Detergent Skin Cleansers The Community Pharmacist's View H. Fiihrling ............................................

223

The Use of Synthetic Detergent Skin Cleansers The General Practitioner's View B. Konig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

225

The Use of Synthetic Detergent Skin Cleansers The Consultant Dermatologist's View G. P. Heilgemeir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

229

List of Contributors

Braun, F., Doz. Dr. UniversiHits-Kinderklinik, Wahringer GiirteI18-20, A-I 090 Wien, Austria Braun-Falco, 0., Prof. Dr. Dr. h. c. mult. Derrnatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat Miinchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W -8000 Miinchen 2, FRG Dott, W., Prof. Dr. Fachgebiet Hygiene der Technischen Universitat, Amrumer Strasse 32, 1000 Berlin 65, FRG Fiedler, H. P., Dr. Lanzstrasse 4, W-6200 Wiesbaden, FRG Fiihrling, H., Dr. losef-Simon-Strasse 4, W -8500 Niirnberg 50, FRG Galster, H., Dr. Spessart-Strasse 15, W-6368 Bad Vilbel, FRG Gollhausen, R., Dr. Derrnatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat Miinchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W -8000 Munchen 2, FRG Heilgemeir, G. P., Dr. Rathausplatz 8, W-8900 Augsburg, FRG Hartmann, A. A., Prof. Dr. Derrnatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Bayerischen Maximilians-Universitat Wurzburg, Josef-Schneider-Strasse 2, W-8700 Wiirzburg, FRG Klaschka, F., Prof. Dr. Hautklinik im Klinikum Steglitz der Freien Universitat Berlin, Hindenburgdamm 30, 1000 Berlin 45, FRG Klein, K., Prof. Dr. Institut fUr Naturwissenschaften und ihre Didaktik der Universitat zu Kbln, Gronewaldstrasse 2, W-5000 K6ln 41, FRG

XII

List of Contributors

Kober, M., Dr. Dermatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitiit Munchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W-SOOO Munchen 2, FRG Kolaczinski, G., Dr. Henkel KGaA, Postfach 11 00, W -4000 Dusseldorf 1, FRG Konig, B., Prof. Dr. Prunkgasse S, W -6500 Mainz-Finthen, FRG Korting, H. c., Priv.-Doz. Dr. Dermatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat Munchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W-SOOO Munchen 2, FRG Lechner, W., Prof. Dr. Universitats-Hautklinik Wurzburg, losef-Schneider-Strasse 2, W-S700 Wurzburg, FRG Lukacs, A., Dr. Dermatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat Munchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W-8000 Munchen 2, FRG Ring, J., Prof. Dr. Dr. Dermatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitiit Munchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W-SOOO Munchen 2, FRG Rump, H. H., Dr. Institut Fresenius, 1m Maisel 14, W-6204 Taunusstein 4, FRG Schadenbock, W., Dr. INCOS Beratungslabor Dr. W. Schadenbock, Galileo-Galilei-Strasse 10, W-6500 Mainz 42, FRG Schneider, W., Dr. Henkel KGaA, Henkelstrasse 67, W-4000 Duseldorf-Holthausen, FRG Schrader, K. Beratungslabor flir die kosmetische und pharmazeutische Industrie, Max-Planck-Strasse 6, W-3450 Holzminden 1, FRG Schumann, K., Dr. Henkel KGaA, Henkelstrasse 67, W-4000 Dusseldorf-Holthausen, FRG Soehnchen, R., Dr. Dermatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat Munchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W-8000 Munchen 2, FRG Stanzl, K., Dr. Sebapharma GmbH u. Co., Binger Strasse 80, W-5407 Boppard-Bad Salzig I, FRG

List of Contributors

Thoma, K., Prof. Dr. Institut fUr phannazeutische Technologie der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat MUnchen, Sophienstrasse 10, W-8000 MUnchen 2, FRG Vieluf, D., Dr. Dermatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat MUnchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W -8000 MUnchen 2, FRG Weinert, W., Dr. Blendax GmbH, Rheinallee 88, W -6500 Mainz 1, FRG Zienicke, H., Dr. Dermatologische Klinik und Poliklinik der Ludwig-MaximiliansUniversitat MUnchen, Frauenlobstrasse 9-11, W -8000 MUnchen 2, FRG

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