Skin Care products
What Works; What Doesn’t
W W W. B AYA R E A L A S E R S K I N . C O M • 2 5 1 .70 6 .1 8 8 0
TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 1 | SKIN AGING FACTS - 04 04 . . . Photoaging 05 . . . Chronological skin aging CHAPTER 2 | PREVENTATIVE SKIN CARE - 06 06 . . . SUN PROTECTION 07 . . . HIGH QUALITY SUNSCREENS CHAPTER 3 | TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANTS - 08 08 . . . Oxidative stress 09 . . . HIGH QUALITY ANTIOXIDANT PRODUCTS CHAPTER 4 | NUTRITION - 10 10 . . . HOW NUTRITION EFFECTs SKIN 11 . . . PROPER DIET FOR HEALTHY SKIN CHAPTER 5 | RETENOIDS - 12 12 . . . Retenoids Defined 13 . . . HIGH quality skin care products that contain retinoids CHAPTER 6 | Reducing the Signs of Aging and Sun Damage - 14 14 . . . Treating Discolorations and Hyperpigmentation 15 . . . HIGH quality products TO Reduce signs of aging and sun damage CHAPTER 7 | ROUGH OR THICKENED SKIN - 16 16 . . . WHAT CAUSES ROUGH OR THICKENED SKIN & About Exfoliation 17 . . . High quality exfoliation products CHAPTER 8 | Lines, Wrinkles and Changes in Skin Texture - 18 18-20 . . . guide - Rejuvinating ingredients for skin care
INTRODUCTION
The average person shopping for effective skin care products will not have a bit of trouble finding a vast selection from which to choose. However, with the proliferation of skin care products on the market today that promise anti-aging benefits, finding products that actually deliver on those promises can be a challenge. The key to finding effective skin care products lies in tuning out the hype and digging a bit deeper for solid, objective facts. By looking into the science behind the claims, finding products that can help keep skin healthy and attractive can be done without wasting one’s time and hard-earned money on trial and error.
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Chapter 1: Skin Aging Facts Learning some basic facts about the mechanisms involved in skin aging can make it easier to understand what needs to be done to preserve good skin health and condition. Two basic types of skin aging affect skin health and appearance over time, which are photoaging and chronological aging.
Photoaging Many of the early skin changes that we typically attribute to natural aging actually have their roots in exposure to UV radiation emitted by the sun, a process called photoaging. UV radiation causes gradual damage to the structure of the skin, degrading connective tissues, such as collagen and elastin, increasing oxidative stress, impairing immune cells, stimulating inflammation and depleting antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E. DNA damage is also done by UV radiation, which can slow skin cell replication and can promote the development of skin cancer. Visible results of photoaging can include skin that is dry, dull and rough and thickened, lines and wrinkles, patchy skin discolorations, solar lentigines, often called age spots, and areas of loose, sagging skin.
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Chapter 1: Skin Aging Facts Chronological Skin Aging Chronological skin aging is the deterioration that occurs naturally over time. The rate at which it happens is influenced by a variety of factors that include genetics, nutrition, exposure to chemicals or pollution, health status and medications, hormonal changes, stress and alcohol or tobacco use, among others. Many of these factors hasten aging by increasing oxidative stress, impairing skin immunity or depleting antioxidants in the skin. Visible signs include dry, thinning skin, dull skin tone, skin discolorations, lines and wrinkles, and skin laxity.
Main factors that influence chronological skin aging:
Genetics
Exposure to chemicals or pollution
hormonal changes
Nutrition
Stress
Health status and medications
Alcohol or tobacco use
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Chapter 2: Preventive Skin Care Sun Protection Sun protection tops the list of effective preventive skin care. UV radiation is an ever-present menace to the health and appearance of skin. It is not affected by temperature, so it is just as intense and damaging on the coldest day of winter as it is in summer, and cloud cover does not obstruct UV radiation, so dreary days offer no protection. What does offer protection is a broad spectrum sun block, applied liberally every day, all year round. The best sun protection products will contain agents that physically block UV rays either alone or in combination with chemical blockers. The physical blockers are minerals: zinc and titanium. These minerals are not degraded by the sun, but can be removed by swimming, sweating, and towel drying. The chemical blockers are always used in combinations and are inactivated at varying rates
SUNBLOCK Blocks UV Rays Year-Round Directions: Apply 30 min. before going outside. Contains Zinc & Titanium
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Chapter 2: Preventive Skin Care by sun exposure. Therefore, the highest quality broad spectrum products are those that include zinc. Examples of these are: » Elta MD Clear broad-spectrum SPF 46 » Obagi Physical UV Block SPF 32 » Pretty Mommies Reflect and Protect » Other quality products: Blue Lizard, Vanicream, Solbar Ingredients to avoid in sunscreen are the chemical oxybenzone, zinc or titanium nanoparticles, and the vitamin A derivative retinyl palmitate. Other effective sun-protective measures include using a broadbrimmed hat, wraparound sunglasses, and clothing made of tightly woven fabric or specifically designed to absorb UV rays. The more skin covered the better! Avoid outdoor activity between the hours of 10am and 4pm when UV radiation is the most intense. And DO apply sunscreen 30 minutes before going outside!
Chapter 3: Topical Antioxidants Oxidative stress is a major factor in both photoaging and chronological aging, and is defined as the cumulative damage done by free radicals. Free radicals are naturally produced when our body mounts a protective response to environmental insults, such as UV radiation, smoking, pollution and toxins which are in our air or foods. These free radicals seek a way to stabilize themselves, which can lead to a chain reaction that damages protein, cell membranes, and DNA (genetic material). In the skin, this damage shows as lines, wrinkles, sagging, texture changes and discoloration due to cell damage and the break down of collagen and elastin. Antioxidants are the body’s natural defense system against free radicals. However, the body’s supply of antioxidants can easily be overwhelmed. Clinical evidence has shown SKIN PROTECTION that applying skin-specific antioxidants in a topical preparation can help prevent oxidative damage, and in some cases, may be sun-protective. Vitamin C, in concentrations between 5 and 15%, applied topically can increase the level of vitamin C in the
X I DA N T O I T N A
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Chapter 3: Topical Antioxidants skin to a far greater degree than oral supplementation. Vitamin E (tocopherols), in concentrations between 2 and 20%, and niacinamide (Vitamin B3) are also important antioxidants in the skin. Certain botanical agents offer clinically proven antioxidant protection to the skin as well, including polyphenols present in green tea, coffee berry extract, soy, grape seeds and red wine (resveratrol), to name a few.
When using these botanical products, it is best to use one that contains a cocktail of antioxidants. Creams or serums that contain vitamins C, E, or B3 should specify the concentration of each to be most effective. A word of caution is that the mention of vitamin C or green tea on a label does not mean that it is in a form that can be absorbed by the skin. Below are some examples of quality products: » Obagi Professional C serums » PCA C Strength 15% with 5% E » Neostrata Antioxidant Defense Serum
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Chapter 4: Nutrition
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The skin is among the first areas to be affected by poor nutrition.
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A healthy, balanced diet is important preventive skin care. Your body needs a balanced array of proteins, vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids and other essential nutrients to maintain optimal health of all its parts. While the skin is an important organ, there are other organs and systems that take priority as far as nutrient distribution is concerned. What that means is that if your diet is lacking in essential nutrients, the body will first ensure that vital areas like the brain, nervous system and cardiovascular system and others are nourished, then send whatever is left to the skin, hair and other less critical areas. For that reason, the skin is among the first areas to be affected by poor nutrition in the form of dryness, premature aging and various skin conditions. Nutrients that are of particular concern in skin health include vitamins A, C and E, which are powerful antioxidants, B-vitamins, vitamin D, beta carotenes, omega-3 essential fatty acids and certain minerals, including silica, selenium and zinc. To ensure an
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Chapter 4: Nutrition adequate supply of these nutrients for maintaining top quality skin health, a diet that includes ample lean proteins, low fat dairy products, abundant and varied fresh vegetables and fruits, and whole grains. A high quality multivitamin with minerals and fish or flaxseed oil (omega-3 supplements) can offer extra insurance against nutritional deficits.
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Chapter 5: RETINOIDS Adding a retinoid to your skin care Retinoids regimen is one of the most important steps for real anti-aging benefits. Retinoids Collagen & rs are compounds Elastic Fibe derived from Vitamin A which have 25 years worth of clinical data supporting their benefits in anti-aging skin care. These compounds are cell regulators and work directly on collagen metabolism. They have a strong positive effect by increasing the formation of collagen and elastic fibers and reducing the forces that cause collagen to break down. There are several types of retinoids found in topical skin care products. The strongest of these is tretinoin (retinoic acid) which is sold only through a healthcare provider or by prescription and is available in multiple strengths. Common retinoids found in over-the-counter products are retinol, retinylaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate. Unlike tretinoin (retinoic acid), a natural retinoid, these other retinoids must be converted by the skin into retinoic acid and therefore have a lower potency.
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Chapter 5: RETINOIDS Retinoids have been shown to reduce the signs of skin aging caused by UV exposure and improve the signs of chronological aging. The results can be seen with decreased hyperpigmentation and with improvements in skin wrinkling and elasticity.
Vitamin A structural formula
Examples of quality skin care products that contain retinoids: » PCA Skin Care Retinol products » VI Derm Ultra A with 10% Vitamin C
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Chapter 6: Reducing the Signs of Aging and Sun Damage
Minimizing UV exposure and a good preventive skin care routine can minimize the effects of photoaging and delay chronological aging, but even the most fastidious skin care cannot entirely prevent these processes. However, when visible signs of aging do appear, there are skin care products that are effective in reducing their appearance.
Treating Discolorations and Hyperpigmentation Photoaging is the main culprit in skin discolorations, which can appear as an allover yellowing or dulling of the complexion or as freckles, age spots, or patchy brownish or reddened areas. While there are many products and remedies that claim to reduce such skin discolorations, very few over-the-counter products contain satisfactory combinations of ingredients or potency to provide significant improvement.
Skin Pigmentation
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Chapter 6: Reducing the Signs of Aging and Sun Damage
Hydroquinone and kojic acid are among the most effective skin lightening agents available today. Both work by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that is essential in producing the skin pigment that creates these discolorations. Both have been shown to work equally well in clinical tests and are often combined in skin lightening products. Other ingredients that can aid in reducing discoloration and are often used in skin lightening products in conjunction with hydroquinone and kojic acid include vitamin C, retinoids, niacinamide, arbutin, licorice extract, bearberry extract, raspberry ketone and evening primrose oil.
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Very few over-the-counter products contain satisfactory combinations of ingredients or potency to provide significant improvement.
Quality products that contain a combination of these ingredients include:
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» Obagi Blender and Obagi Clear » VI Derm Bleaching Cream RX » PCA Skin Pigment gels » Clinicians Complex Bleaching Cream
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Chapter 7: Rough or Thickened Skin Rough, thickened skin is caused by a slowing rate of skin cell turnover on the surface of the skin and generally occurs due to changes triggered by sun damage. Retinoids, especially prescription strength products, speed up skin cell turnover and can be effective, when used regularly, in significantly improving the condition of rough, leathery skin.
Exfoliation can be very effective in rejuvenating that outer layer of skin, since it sloughs off dead skin cells to reveal healthier and brighter new ones underneath. There are two basic approaches to exfoliation; mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliation uses scrubs or other abrasive techniques to remove dead skin cells, while chemical exfoliants typically dissolve them. Chemical exfoliation, or a chemical peel typically produces more even results than mechanical exfoliation. A chemical peel can also afford an opportunity to administer compounds that will treat skin problems at the cellular level. Maintaining good exfoliation
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Chapter 7: Rough or Thickened Skin is important for allowing the best absorption of products which support skin health such as retinoids, skin brighteners, vitamin C, and other antioxidants. For effective chemical exfoliation at home, look for products that contain ingredients such as alpha hydroxy acids, lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid , and salicylic acid. » All Neostrata products » VI Derm products » Obagi Exfoderm Skin care products that are available through professionals are generally stronger solutions than those commonly found over-the counter, and thus provide a more reliable degree of exfoliation. Greater exfoliation is desirable for those with dull, thickened skin, oily skin, or with significant photoaging.
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Chapter 8: Lines, Wrinkles and
Changes in Skin Texture
Of the most common signs of aging, fine lines and wrinkles seem to attract the most attention. We are bombarded with television, print and internet advertisements touting hundreds of products that claim to prevent the development of lines and wrinkles or erase existing ones. While there are no overnight solutions and claims associated with many products are exaggerated, there are a number of skin care products that can actually improve the condition of the skin, creating real results in minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The key to finding those effective wrinkle reducing products is in knowing what to look for on their labels, since there are relatively few active ingredients that have been clinically proven to work in terms of real improvement in the condition of the skin.
Ingredients that can offer effective skin rejuvenating results include: » Retinoids – Considered the gold standard among many dermatologists and skin care professionals for preventive care as well as skin rejuvenation, retinoids have been proven to stimulate collagen production, increase hydration levels in the skin and enhance the rate of skin cell turnover, factors that improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
Chapter 8: Lines, Wrinkles and
Changes in Skin Texture
» Vitamin C – L-Ascorbic acid, a form of vitamin C found in quality skin care products, has been proven to reduce lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production when it is delivered in a manner that keeps it stable so that it can penetrate the skin. It can also help protect against collagen loss by means of its powerful antioxidant function. » Peptides – Clinical studies have shown that peptides benefit the body’s natural tissue building processes, promoting the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. By improving skin structure, texture and hydration, peptides has been shown to soften and smooth its surface, reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles. The best known peptides contained in various skin care products are Matrixyl®, Argireline®, and copper peptide. » Alpha-Hydroxy Acids – A category of beneficial skin care ingredients that includes glycolic, lactic, malic, and citric acids, alpha hydroxy acids have been shown to smooth surface skin, improving the appearance of fine lines and enlarged pores.
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Chapter 8: Lines, Wrinkles and
Changes in Skin Texture
» Beta-Hydroxy Acid – Also known as salicylic acid, beta-hydroxy acid has been clinically proven to improve the condition of photoaged skin, providing comparable results to those obtained with alphahydroxy acids with less irritation, making it a good option for those with sensitive skin. » Plant-Derived Stem Cells – Stem cells derived from plants have been shown to benefit skin condition by secreting growth factors that stimulate healing and cellular regeneration, as well as providing powerful antioxidant protection to the skin and guarding against inflammation. These have become popular ingredients in many botanical skin care products, with stem cells found in grape seed extract, lilac leaf and Swiss apple having the most clinical evidence backing their effectiveness. » Human growth factors are found in a few high quality skin care lines and have been shown in scientific studies to stimulate collagen growth. When a high concentration of human growth factors in a physiologically balanced mixture is topically applied, it appears to reverse the signs of aging.
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CONCLUSION The examples of effective products and ingredients given here certainly is not an exhaustive list, but is meant to provide consumers with the ability look at labels and identify cosmetic ingredients that have clinically proven benefits. While there is little doubt Look closely at that some of the products and ingredients on the ingredient market today will eventually be proven effective in lists! clinical studies, many others, despite very convincing claims, will likely prove ineffective or even, in some cases, harmful. So rather than gamble your hard earned money and your appearance on the latest new anti-aging miracle cream, stick with tried and true ingredients that have been proven to offer safe and effective anti-aging results. While being armed with a list of clinically proven ingredients to refer to while shopping can make developing an effective anti-aging skin care routine easier, finding the right combination of products to suit your skin type and address your particular skin issues will probably still involve some trial and error. If you have tried a number of high quality products and have yet to achieve the results you’ve been looking for, a consultation with an experienced skin care professional can offer the expert guidance you need to devise a skin care plan that will help you meet your anti-aging goals.
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