San Diego Outdoor Climbing Guide Remember climbing can be dangerous and always involves risk. Your safety is your own responsibility. Climb smart. Recommended guide book: San Diego County Climbing Guide by Dave Kennedy San Diego Area Climbs Corte Madera Dixon Lake McCain Valley Mission Gorge Mt. Woodson Santee Bolders Stonewall The Descanso Wall Valley of the Moon

 

 

CORTE MADERA Description: great back country experience. The main wall holds both trad and bolted multi-pitch climbs that are 3 to 4 pitchs in length. Surrounding satellite rocks also yield some good quality sport climbing, mostly in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. There is 1 to 1 1/2 hour hike to the climbs. This south facing area can get quite warm during the summer months. Most of the main wall is closed from Feb 1 to June 30 for bird nesting. Please respect this mandatory closure. The sport climbs on the satellite rocks are still open to climbing during this period. Directions: Take Interstate 8 east to the Buckman Springs exit. Turn right and head south several miles to Corral Canyon Rd. Turn on to Corral Canyon Rd and drive 4.9 miles to a small parking area where the trail starts. (Note: this parking area is not at the end of the paved road. If you have 4 wheel drive you may continue to the end of the paved road and follow a couple rugged dirt roads closer to the crag. However, the driving takes almost as long as the nice hike so why rattle your brains). Approach: 1 to 1⁄2 hr hike or drive with a 4 wheel drive vehicle Fees: none Types of Climbing: Sport Lead (single and multi-pitch), Trad Lead (single and multipitch), Toprope, some Bouldering Number of Routes: 50 to 60 total, with 20 or so multi-pitch routes on main wall Ratings: 5.6 to 5.12

DIXON LAKE Description: a small climbing area located next to the Lake Dixon reservoir in Escondido. The granite boulders hold mostly boulder and top rope climbs, but there are a few short leads. Gear may be required to set up some of the top rope problems. Climbing at Dixon consists of cracks and steep faces. There may be a small fee to enter this city park. Directions: Take 163 North to I-15 North to Escondido. Exit El Norte Parkway (not Camino Del Norte), take a right at bottom of ramp, and continue 4 miles to Dixon Lake (there are a couple of signs - one at the bottom of the exit ramp, one at the turn off for the lake). Continue past entry booth, and park at "Trout Cove". This parking area comes up at a horseshoe turn, perhaps a quarter mile from the booth, it has a sign. There are porta-potties at the parking area.

 

 

Approach: 5 minutes Fees: $1.00 entry fee Types of climbs: Bouldering, Toprope Number of Routes : 40 or more boulder and toprope problems, not counting all the personal variations. Ratings : 5.6 to 5.12 Land Management contact info: (760) 839-4680 Ranger Station

MCCAIN VALLEY Description: a vast BLM recreation area in eastern San Diego County. Lots of land, lots of camping (in designated areas), lots of boulders, and sometimes lots of off-roaders in the Lark Canyon area. McCain Valley is mainly a bouldering area but there are some bolted leads on the semi-famous Lowenbrau Pinnacle. Lots of potential exists for putting up new boulder problems if you're the first ascent type. Directions: take I-8 east until the 94/Campo exit. Turn right and go 1/2 mile to Old Highway 80. Turn left and drive east just under 2 miles to McCain Valley Rd. You should see a sign that says McCain Valley Recreation Area. Turn left (north) onto McCain Valley Rd. After 1 mile the paved road becomes a good qualtiy dirt road. Lark Canyon campground is about 4 miles up the road. Lowenbrau Pinnacle is a few miles farther up the road. Approach: varies Fees: BLM offers campsites for $6 Types of Climbing : Bouldering, a few bolted leads, and a few mixed (gear and bolt) leads Number of Routes : many boulder problems, 20 or so bolt and gear leads at Lowenbrau if you feel like the hike. Ratings : 5.7 to 5.12+ Boulders, 5.8 to 5.11 leads Land Management contact info: (760) 337-4400 BLM El Centro Field Office

 

 

MISSION GORGE Description: the oldest and one of the most popular climbing spots in the San Diego area. It is characterized by fine grained metamorphosed granite that can be quite slick on some routes. Climbs generally range from 30 to 70 ft. but a few longer ones can be found. The approach takes about 10 minutes and follows a well used but steep trail. Main Wall Area a complex arrangement of short walls and large ledges. Its total height is about 150 ft, but most climbs are 40-70 ft. This area also holds some of the slickest rock at the Gorge and can take some getting used to. Limbo Area the broad central region of Mission Gorge. It lies between the Main Wall to the north and Middle Earth to the south. Limbo holds several small isolated cliffs. Areas 4,5,6 and 7 are right on the horizontal trail. Area 8 is below the horizontal trail and can be reached by a short branch trail. Areas 2 and 3 are best reached by ascending a gully at area 4. There is no easy way to get to area 1, but Craig’s crack at the top is worth the effort. Middle Earth Area a complex arrangement of small cliffs and canyons at the southern most part of Mission Gorge. Though climbers have used the area since the 1970’s, it had some how escaped entry into any published guides until the mid 1990’s. Much of its history before the mid 1990’s is uncertain. Approach: ~10 minutes Fees: none Direction: Mission Gorge lies within Mission Trails Regional Park. It can be accessed from Father Junipero Serra Trail. This one-way road must be entered from the southwest, off Mission Gorge Rd, near Jackson Dr. Types of Climbing: Trad Lead, Sport Lead, Toprope, Bouldering, Aid Practice Number of Routes: ~185 Ratings: 5.1 to 5.12+ Land Management Contact Info: (619) 668-3281 Mission Trails Regional Park Download a free guide at http://members.cox.net/sandiegorock/index.html

 

 

MT. WOODSON Description: could possibly be the best bouldering and toprope area in Southern California. With hundreds of granite boulders dotting the hillside, Woodson has it all. If you want to master cracks, from super thin to super wide, go to Woodson. If you want to do mantles, friction climbing, edging, low angle climbs, overhanging climbs; go to Woodson. Many climbs require only a chalk bag and a pair of shoes. For aspiring big wall climbers, there are dozens of aid problems ranging in difficulty from A1 to A4. Most of these are not in a guide so you must either find someone who knows these routes or wander aimlessly through the bushes. Mt. Everest is a part of the Woodson climbing area. It is the separate hillside southeast and across highway 67 from the main Woodson hill. It can be accessed at a pullout along highway 67 about one mile south of the normal Woodson parking area. Rexrodes is a rather obscure part of the Woodson area that is approached via the Rexrode Trail. This is a separate trail from the main road that winds up Woodson proper. It can be accessed at a pullout along highway 67 about one mile south of the normal Woodson parking area. Directions : Mt. Woodson lies along highway 67 between Poway and Ramona. Park about three miles north of the Hwy. 67 Poway Rd junction in the vicinity of the state forestry fire station. A short dirt trail passes through the trees until it hits a paved road which winds all the way to the top of Mt. Woodson. Approach: nearest bolders are a couple hundred yards away Fees: none Types of Climbing : Bouldering, Toprope, Trad Lead, Aid Practice Number of Routes : Over 500 problems are listed in guide books. Many more surely exist. Most are boulder and toprope problems. Many of the cracks are leadable and a few face leads can be found too. Ratings : 5.0 to 5.13

 

 

SANTEE BOLDERS Description: Easy access makes Santee Boulders a popular after work hangout. While several rocks are tall enough so that toproping is recommended (bolts on top), most of the climbing in this compact area requires only shoes and chalk bag. Over 100 problems are crammed onto 30 or so granite boulders. Thin, crimpy face climbing, and difficult mantles dominate the climbing at Santee, so bring a good fitting pair of shoes if you want to master the many micro edge problems. Approach: Easy access Fees: none Types of Climbing: Bouldering, Toprope Number of Routes: 130 or more Ratings: 5.1 to 5.12+ Location: City of Santee, San Diego County, California Direction: From Hwy. 52, exit at Mast Blvd. just as you enter Santee, head east on Mast Blvd. about 1/2 mi. and park in the West Hills Park parking lot (across the street from the boulders). From Mission Gorge Road in Santee, turn north on West Hills Parkway, after about 1 mi. turn east on Mast Blvd. Types of Climbing : Bouldering, Toprope Number of Routes : 130 or more not counting all the personal variations. Ratings : 5.1 to 5.12+ Land Management: Private Property but the Access Fund has been able to work with owners to keep it open to public

 

 

STONEWALL Description: The climbing is not bad, but may be a bit different than some are used to. Most routes can be lead or toproped. Some bouldering can be found also. There is generally no new development at this area, since the park allows climbing but does not encourage its expansion. Directions: Drive East on I-8 to 79 North, follow this to Cuyamaca Rancho State Park Arrive at Paso Picacho Campsite/Parking area Approach: 1 hr (2 1⁄2 mile hike) Fees: $5 to park in State Park Types of Climbing: Trad Lead, Toprope, couple Bolt Leads, Bouldering Number of Routes : 20 to 25 Ratings : 5.7 to 5.11, mostly moderate stuff Land Management Contact Info: (760) 765-0755 Cuyamaca Rancho State Park

THE DESCANSO WALL Description: offers challenging face and crack climbing on good quality granite. Most routes are 110 - 120 ft long, and are serious run out leads. A 60 meter rope or really long slings are recommended if you plan to toprope. There are 5 or 6 sets of bolt anchors on top, and several rap anchors half way up the face. The anchors on top are not rap stations, but the walk off is not difficult. Satellite rocks, that surround the main wall, offer good bouldering and toprope possibilities for those adventurous enough to brave the often mandatory bushwacking. Just left and above the main wall is an overhanging hand to offwidth crack called "King Swing" that should not be missed. There has been some recent disagreement between the original developer of this area and subsequent route bolters. Many of the original lines were bolted over in an attempt to turn the wall into a sport climbing area. Most of these new bolts were then chopped by the original route setter. Never the less, this is a great place to check out. Many of the original lead bolts are small 1/4 with bad Leeper hangers. The newer bolts are fine. All anchor bolts are new 3/8. Directions : Drive east on I-8, well past Alpine, and exit on Hwy 79. Head north on Hwy 79 about 3/4 mi. and turn left on Wildwood Glen Lane. Drive another 1 mile or so until

    you see a faint trail heading up to the wall. A 15 minute hike gets you to the main wall. Descanso Wall is plainly visible from I-8 just before you exit on hwy 79. Types of Climbing : Serious, run out face climbing, several good "trad" crack routes, Toprope with long rope or slings, Bouldering, couple Sport Climbs. Caution : Number of Routes : 20 or so lead climbs on the main wall, not all in a guide book. Dozens of boulder and toprope problems, none of which are in a guide book, and often require bushwacking. Ratings : 5.7 to 5.12a

VALLEY OF THE MOON Description: part of the Jacumba Wilderness, this area offers "Joshua Tree- like" climbing right in our own back yard. The rock is identical, varying from excellent to poor quality depending on the climb, and possessing the same excellent friction and weathering patterns. Much of Valley of the Moon is located within a federally designated wilderness area. While climbing is allowed, new bolt installation is either prohibited or very restricted. If contemplating placing new bolts or replacing old ones, be sure to contact BLM personnel for the exact wilderness boundaries and the regulations on bolting within the wilderness. This mildly remote section of BLM land is extremely close to the Mexico border, and is a favorite entry point for those smuggling illegal aliens so be aware of this. People have reported this area illegally being used as a shooting range as well. Valley of the Moon is a beautiful back country part of San Diego, but given the added elements, some care should be taken when climbing there. Directions : On Interstate 8, drive about an hour east of El Cajon to the In- Ko-Pa Park Road. Exit here. Go right (south) for 100 ft or so to the Frontage Road which is Old Highway 80. Turn right on this road and continue for just under .25 mile to an unmarked dirt road on your left. There should be a BLM bulletin board here that mentions climbing, or at least the rules of the area. Almost immediately you encounter a fork in the dirt road. Head left (southeast). Soon you will be going up hill. Follow this road for a couple miles or so until you come to a prominent saddle (major dip in the road). There, you turn left on another dirt road that heads down and may require 4 wheel drive, or at least very high clearance. Most people with 2 wheel drive park here and walk 45 minutes or so in to the climbing. This rough road opens onto a broad flat valley about 3.5 miles from the freeway. At this point you still have a mile or more to the climbs and it can get a bit confusing. We recommend going with someone who has been there before. Fees: none

    Types of Climbing : Sport Lead, some Trad Lead, Toprope (lead first), Bouldering Number of Routes : 40 or more known routes, both sport and trad. Ratings : 5.7 to 5.12 Land Management Contact Info: (760) 337-4400 BLM El Centro Field Office