SECOND HAND CAN BE FIRST CHOICE

Author: Britt Boye Nyvang CPR number: 270486-xxxx Education: Cand.Ling.Merc, English & Intercultural Market Studies

Supervisor: Wencke Gwozdz, Department of Intercultural Communication & Management Institution: Copenhagen Business School, 2014 Date: May 30, 2014

Number of standard pages: 73,7 (167.579) / 80 p.

- BUT HOW?

A master thesis on the existing barriers and benefits of second hand shopping, creating a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross

Britt Boye Nyvang

CBS

Hvordan gøres genbrugstøj til god stil? En kandidatafhandling om fordele og ulemper ved at gå i genbrugstøj, til udvikling af en social markering strategi for Røde Kors. Denne kandidatafhandling er baseret på en kvalitativ og kvantitativ eksplorativ analyse af forbrugeradfærd i forbindelse med køb af genbrugstøj. Ved at identificere og analysere både barrierer for og fordele ved at købe genbrugstøj søger afhandlingen at afdække hvilken social marketing strategi Røde Kors bør anvende, for at tiltrække flere unge til Røde Kors butikkerne. Ved gennemførsel af en kundeundersøgelse i otte Røde Kors butikker blev kundernes demografiske data, værdier og holdninger i forhold til genbrugstøj, Røde Kors og bæredygtighed kortlagt. Denne viste, at der er mange flere unge kunder i Røde Kors butikkerne end først antaget, samt at størstedelen af kunderne prioriterer det unikke tøj og de billige priser over miljøhensyn og den gode sag. Ved at kortlægge kundernes adfærd var det muligt at identificere syv fordele ved købe genbrugstøj. Disse fordele blev yderligere analyseret og tre udvalgt og inkorporeret i den sociale marketingstrategi til Røde Kors. De tre var at genbrugsshopping er spændende, og at tøjer er både unikt og billigt. I analysearbejdet til den sociale marketingstrategi blev også de eksisterende barrierer identificeret. Ved gennemførsel af interviews med forbrugere der ikke ønsker at gå i genbrugstøj blev i alt 14 barrierer identificeret. Disse 14 blev yderligere analyseret og tre barrierer udvalgt til marketingstrategien; butikkerne er rodede, vinduesudsmykningen er ikke tiltrækkende og at det er tidskrævende at shoppe genbrugstøj. Afhandlingen resulterer i udviklingen af en social marketingstrategi til Røde Kors, hvor i alt seks anbefalinger blev fremlagt. Disse seks blev udvalgt på baggrund af Motivation–Opportunity–Ability–Behavior modellen, Stages of Change modellen og Self-determination teorien, der tilsammen tager højde for hvor forbrugeren er i beslutningsprocessen, hvordan forbrugeren kan motiveres til at ændre adfærd og hvor sandsynligt det er, at overvindelsen af de enkelte barrierer har indflydelse på adfærden. I anbefalingerne anvendes således social marketing værktøjer til at ændre forbrugernes adfærd. Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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Anbefalingerne lyder på; At gøre butikkerne mere attraktive og tiltrække kunderne via vinduesudsmykningen, ved at uddannet de frivillige i netop dette. At anvende Social Diffusion ved blandt andet at udvælge tøj der henvender sig til unge og hænge det for sig selv i butikken. På den måde er det nemmere for modetvivlere at identificere, hvad der er hot. De får på den måde en succesoplevelse. At kommunikere fordele ved genbrugstøj, der er både unikt og billigt. Dette gennem framing, billeder og fængende sprog. At anvende sociale medier mere intenst end før hen, da det er her målgruppen opererer. At udnytte modetendensen der dikterer genbrugstøj som hot. Dette ved at fremstille tøjet lidt lækrere i butikkerne og ved brug af modeskabere til at idealadfærd. At anvende Implementation Intentions for at give forbrugerne et påskud til at besøge en Røde Kors butik.

Slutteligt diskuterer afhandlingen fravalget af barrierer og fordele, for at sætte det i perspektiv til forbrugernes holdning til bæredygtighed og bæredygtigheden af den social marketing strategi.

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Table of Content Chapter 1: Introduction and problem formulation.................................................. 5 1.1 Introduction to the subject .................................................................................................. 5 The case company, The Red Cross ...................................................................................................... 5 The consumers ............................................................................................................................................ 6 Creating behavioral change using Social Marketing .................................................................... 7

1.2 Problem statement.................................................................................................................. 7 1.3 Relevance .................................................................................................................................... 8 1.5 Delimitation ............................................................................................................................... 9 1.5.1 Selecting behavior ........................................................................................................................... 9 1.5.2 Fashion Consumption Psychology ......................................................................................... 10 1.5.3 Culture ............................................................................................................................................... 10

1.6 Targeted audience ................................................................................................................. 10 1.7 Structure of the thesis ......................................................................................................... 12 Chapter 2: Background and research design ..........................................................13 2.1 Theoretical framework........................................................................................................ 13 2.1.1 Social Marketing ............................................................................................................................ 13 2.1.2 Community Based Social Marketing ...................................................................................... 14 2.1.3 The MOAB for shopping second hand clothes at the Red Cross ................................ 15 2.1.4 Stages of Change ............................................................................................................................ 18 2.1.5 Self-determination Theory ........................................................................................................ 19 2.1.6 Implementation intentions ....................................................................................................... 21 2.1.7 Theoretical approach ................................................................................................................... 21 2.1.7  The  4  P’s  of  the  Social  Marketing  Mix  and  the  7C’s ......................................................... 22

2.3 Methodology ............................................................................................................................ 23 2.3.1 Theory of Science .......................................................................................................................... 23 2.3.2 The quantitative intercept interviews .................................................................................. 25 2.3.2.1 Research purpose ................................................................................................................. 25 2.3.2.2 Research design .................................................................................................................... 25 2.3.2.3 Research structure ............................................................................................................... 25 2.3.2.4 Research population ........................................................................................................... 26 2.3.2.5 Research area ......................................................................................................................... 27 2.3.2.6 Pretesting and revision ...................................................................................................... 27 2.3.2.7 Reliability and validity ....................................................................................................... 28 2.4 The qualitative interviews ............................................................................................................ 28 2.4.1 Research purpose .................................................................................................................... 28 2.4.2 Research design ........................................................................................................................ 29 2.4.3 Research structure .................................................................................................................. 30 2.4.4 Population ................................................................................................................................... 30

2.5 Key findings of the customer survey .............................................................................. 31

2.5.1 Demographics ................................................................................................................................. 31 2.5.2 Psychographics............................................................................................................................... 32 2.5.3 Shopping patterns ......................................................................................................................... 32 2.5.4 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................................ 33

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Chapter 3: Analysis and creation of the social marketing strategy.................33 3. Analysis of Barriers and Benefits ....................................................................................... 34 3.1 Barriers to action ................................................................................................................... 34 3.1.1  Barriers  to  action  from  The  Red  Cross’  point  of  view .................................................... 35 3.1.2  Barriers  to  action  from  the  customers’  point  of  view .................................................... 36 3.1.3 Shop appearance ...................................................................................................................... 36 3.1.4 Perceptions ................................................................................................................................. 41 3.1.5 Self-perception .......................................................................................................................... 46 3.1.6 Structural barriers ................................................................................................................... 50

3.1.7 Selection of barriers of interest .................................................................................... 54 3.2 Benefits ...................................................................................................................................... 57

3.2.1 Hedonic behavior .......................................................................................................................... 58 3.2.2 Altruistic behavior ........................................................................................................................ 62

3.2.3 Selection of benefits of interest .................................................................................... 65 3.3 Determining impact and probability of engagement............................................... 65 3.4 The Social Marketing Strategy .......................................................................................... 67 3.4.1 The Target Audience .................................................................................................................... 68 3.4.2 The Product ..................................................................................................................................... 69 3.4.3 The Price ........................................................................................................................................... 69 3.4.5 The Place ........................................................................................................................................... 70 3.4.6 Promotion......................................................................................................................................... 70 3.4.7 Process ............................................................................................................................................... 72 3.4.8 Organization and Competition................................................................................................. 72 3.4.9 Dangers.............................................................................................................................................. 72 3.4.10 Recommendations...................................................................................................................... 73

Chapter 4: Discussion and conclusion ........................................................................74 4. 1 Discussion................................................................................................................................ 74

4.1.1 The rejection of barriers............................................................................................................. 74 4.1.2 The rejection of benefits ............................................................................................................. 76

4.2 Limitations ............................................................................................................................... 76 4.3 Conclusion ................................................................................................................................ 77 4.4 Future implications using social marketing ................................................................ 79 References ....................................................................................................................................... 81 NB: Annex on CD-ROM

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Chapter 1: Introduction and problem formulation In chapter 1, the thesis will discuss the case company, the consumers and the problem statement of creating a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross. Further the matter of relevance and delimitations will be treated.

1.1 Introduction to the subject The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world, but is one of the most trendsetting and influential as well (Kruse, 2013).  ‘Fast   Fashion’   covers the pace in which high-end clothes is cheaply mass-produced and repeatedly marketed mainstream end-consumers, keeping the continuous clothes production and consumption at a high. On average, 40 pct. of the environmental impact of the product life cycle of a piece of clothing is the production phase (Kruse, 2013). Therefore it is very important, what we do with the clothes after we are finished wearing it, as consuming more clothes also means discarding more clothes. The trend of throwaway fashion is a result of increased purchase frequency, low prices and expectations of lower life expectancy of the clothes (Moore & Birtwistle, 2007). According to Deloitte, 80 pct. of the clothes that Danes discard, have about 75 pct. of its life expectancy left (Clausen, 2013), and often the discarding of the clothes is led on by the desire to make room in the closet for new fashionable clothes (Gwozdz, Netter, Bjartmarz, & Reisch, 2013). The clothes are often donated to charity organizations to resell. In Denmark, The Red Cross is the biggest player on the second hand clothing market with 230 Red Cross stores and a continued increase in clothes donation.

The case company, The Red Cross One   of   The   Danish   Red   Cross’   most   financially   successful   activities   is   sales   of   second hand clothing in their local branches. Every year The Danish Red Cross receives about 6,000 tons of second hand clothing. Much of it is sold in the 230 Red Cross stores all over Denmark, creating annual revenue of more than DKK 30 million for relief work (annex. Despite the fact that it is one of the most voluminous profit earners in the entire Danish Red Cross organization, the Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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Second Hand Department does not have a clear picture of who actually visits the stores. They have many assumptions, but none of them have been validated. To examine whether or not the Red Cross is making the most of their market position, an investigation of the current customers and their shopping motives needed to be outlined. Prior to my investigations, The Red Cross did not know who the customers in the stores were and their marketing activities were based on an assumption of who a typical Red Cross second hand consumer is.

The consumers The general picture of the Red Cross second hand customer was a woman aged 50+, and as research has identified, older people are more altruistically motivated, and want to give something back to the world (Solomon et al, 2010:445). In that sense, The Red Cross has been right on the money, when developing campaigns focusing on the difference the Red Cross makes in the world. Furthermore, elderly people like to feel a form of connectedness with friends and family (ibid), and the volunteers in the store use a lot of their time in the store talking to their peers. Many of the volunteers state that it is as much of an attracting element of visiting the store, as shopping there is (Nyvang, 2013). In Denmark second hand clothes is a fairly polarized subject of discussion. Often, you either hate it or you love it (Baby, 2008; baby.dk, 2011). Previous notions of second hand clothes included many prejudice attitudes of the clothes being disgusting and only for people who could not afford new clothes. That line of thought has to some extent survived to present day. However, many people, especially young people, view clothes as a way to express individuality (Gwozdz et al., 2013)Today, that is partly expressed through second hand clothing. The last couple of years, the fashion trend has dictated a more retro and vintage look, thus young people are embracing second hand clothing as a natural part of their wardrobe. However, the Red Cross has never directed their marketing campaigns towards young customers, as they were not deemed as a part of the primary target group. My customer survey changed the outlook on the target groups to such an extent, that the Red Cross now wants to primarily focus their marketing efforts towards the younger consumers. Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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Young consumers are to a large extent influenced by opinion leaders, popular culture, peers, role models and mass media (Fien, Neil, & Bentley, 2008). Despite that, young consumers also have vast potential to bring about change (Welsch & Kühling, 2009). Based on a study from 2000 in 24 countries of 18-25 year olds, it was identified, that there are three socio-psychological factors that   form   the   basis   of   young   people’s   potential   of   being   key   agents   in  promoting change towards sustainable consumption patterns (Gwozdz et al, 2013) Firstly, young consumers have high concerns for the environment. Secondly, that they have the ability to create trends. Thirdly, that they are very skilled using new media (ibid). The Red Cross thus needs to think in all together new ways of communicating with the young consumers. Taking these factors into account, how does the Red Cross attract more young people to the stores and how do they frame their marketing campaigns in order to optimize the reach of younger consumers?

Creating behavioral change using Social Marketing In order to create a new social marketing strategy that better fit the young customers, an identification of the common features and diversities of the customers’   psychographics   needed   to   be   outlined   first.   Further,   an   analysis   of   the barriers and benefits of wearing second hand clothing is needed to identify the most successful social marketing approach. With an offset in a barriers and benefits analysis, the goal of the thesis is to create a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross, using the framework of Fostering Sustainable Behavior - Community Based Social Marketing, developed by Doug McKenzie-Mohr.

1.2 Problem statement What are the barriers to and benefits of wearing second hand clothes and how can The Red Cross overcome these barriers using Social Marketing to target young consumers?

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To thoroughly answer the research question the following sub-questions were developed Who are the current customers in the Red Cross stores and what are their shopping motives? What existing barriers to action inhibit young consumers to wear second hand clothes? What benefits do consumers of second hand clothes experience? Overcoming barriers and supporting benefits to second hand shopping, how could the Red Cross target young consumers?

1.3 Relevance It is of high relevancy to investigate the second hand clothing market in Denmark, as the trends of second hand fashion is becoming more and more evident and because previous research has failed to cover the shopping motives of low-fashion second hand clothing consumers. It is of relevance to investigate the marked further as focus in the fashion industry is shifting towards more sustainable solutions as well (Kruse & Kabell, 2014)Fashion is high-involvement products, where consumers are more involved and have definite opinions (Cervellon, Carey, & Harms, 2012)as fashion is   not   a   matter   of   basic  needs   and   a   “significant relationship between materialism and the level of fashion involvement has been found in several studies”   (ibid:959).   The spill over effect of more people buying second hand clothes is an increased focus on sustainability as well. Only little research has been conducted in the Danish marked regarding second hand clothing. Most research has resulted in newspaper articles conveying consumer opinions, expert statements and facts on sustainability and clothes production. However, a few international academic journals have treated second hand consumers and their buying motives. In Denmark, Deloitte has made various different consultancy reports on sustainable clothes from a Danish perspective. One was made in collaboration with The Danish Fashion institute, taking an offset in the Danish market for sustainable fashion consumption and clothes production (Deloitte, 2013). The main goal of the report was to set focus on the current business models of the fashion industry. A different Deloitte survey is a survey that uncovered CBS students’   attitudes towards sustainable fashion. The survey identified that the

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consumers lack trust in the CSR initiatives of the fashion industry, because of the lack of transparency (Christensen, 2014). Deloitte has produced many similar reports, however no reports have taken an offset in second hand clothing. A study made by (Cervellon et al., 2012) investigated the shopping motives of second hand consumers. The main focus of the study was to establish whether or not second hand stores should brand themselves as vintage stores instead. The study identified that as age increases, fashion clothes

involvement decreases, but that the characteristics and motives of the consumers of vintage clothes are very different from the consumers of ‘traditional’  second hand fashion. The biggest differences were education and knowledge of vintage clothes and a matter of income. Cervellon et. al. (2012) found that Vintage fashion and second hand consumers differ strongly on the economic motives, which precede the purchase. In this study, frugality is not an antecedent to the purchase intention of vintage fashion. In contrast, the main driver to the purchase of second-hand clothes is frugality, both directly and indirectly through the mediation of bargain hunting. This result is in line with Roux   and   Guiot’s   (2008)   findings   that   price   sensitivity   and   frugality   are   influencing heavily second-hand shopping motives. (969)

The result of the survey was, that second hand stores should be cautious if repositioning themselves as vintage stores, as the consumers of second hand and vintage clothing are very different. Attracting vintage consumers, that do not necessarily find what they are looking for, while also excluding some of the consumers attracted to second hand stores because of the excitement of making a good cheap purchase, was a high risk of the repositioning. It is thus relevant to investigate the second hand clothing market, as the market for second hand clothes is growing and is only scarcely scrutinized.

1.5 Delimitation 1.5.1 Selecting behavior The thesis will focus mainly on how to get more people into the Red Cross stores, instead of focusing on how to get more people to buy second hand clothes. This is based on my study in the Red Cross stores, which identified, that 49 pct. of the customers buy something approximately every time they visit the stores and

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about 40 pct. does so approximately every other time (annex 2). Thus, the focus will be to get more people to overcome the barrier of visiting the store, as the hypothesis is, that most of them will purchase something once they are there.

1.5.2 Fashion Consumption Psychology The thesis will not include the surrounding psychological aspects of fashion consumption, even though the target group is identified as having the most growth potential, as young people use the clothes as a part of their extended self (Belk, 1988; Langbo-Friis, 2013). This form of planned behavior, where the immediate environment plays an integral part in what you wear is often seen in fashion consumption (Belk, 1988). However, the thesis will abstain from this aspect, as it is beyond the scope of this thesis.

1.5.3 Culture As mentioned, wearing second hand clothing is a fairly polarized matter of discussion in Denmark. This has to some degree to do with the Danish culture. The traditional view of second hand clothes is filled with presumptions of it being dirty, smelly and for the poor (Baby, 2008; baby.dk, 2011). The cultural aspect however is not limited to Denmark, but from France (Burton, 2009), to China (Dean, 2013) as well, the cultural aspect comes into play regarding second hand clothing. Even in a country like Zaire, that often receives second hand clothing from NGOs, the subject is affected by culture (Burton, 2009). The matter of culture will not be treated in the thesis however, as culture is very diverse and as such also demands extensive research.

1.6 Targeted audience The thesis will concentrate on the development of a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross, targeted at young people from the age 16-30. The target group selection is based on my customer analysis in the Red Cross stores (annex 2). The analysis clearly identifies, that the Red Cross have a much more diverse customer base, than presumed, including much more young people than anticipated. As a result of the general assumption of the customers being much older, the prior

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marketing campaigns have focused on   this   exact   target   group.   “Sometimes marketers create their strategies with a “typical”  customer  in  mind.  This  stereotype   may not be correct because the actual customer may not match these assumptions”   (Solomon et al., 2010:581). In order to create a new marketing strategy that better fit the customers, a focus on the younger consumers was chosen. Further; The second hand look is extremely hot among young people right now. You want to express your personality through your clothes, and the second hand stores  have  something  you  cannot  get  off  the  rack  in  commercial  stores  […]   Today young people want to express something else than crazed consumption – you might call it an anti-materialistic trend. (Langbo-Friis, 2013)

Fien and Skoien (Fien et al., 2008) identify three socio-psychological factors that indicate that young people have great potential for changing consumption patterns. These three factors are included in the development of the social marketing strategy, as they are components of what touch points the target group is influenced by. First, is the fact that young people have a high level of concern for the environment. Sustainability is a buzzword among businesses these days, and a demand for more sustainable solutions is a priority for young consumers as well. However, as research have revealed, that concern rarely translate into changes in shopping patterns with regards to clothes (Gwozdz et al., 2013). Second, the young consumers may be able to make sustainable consumption   ‘fashionable’.   As   Eva   Kruse   (Kruse, 2013) puts   it   “the fashion industry can make sustainability and social responsibility fashionable, if the consumers demands it”.   Because   being   part   of   a   group   is   so   important   to   young   people, it may broaden the appeal to the youths if trendsetters and change agents are identified (Fien et al., 2008). Further, clothes is a high involvement product (Cervellon et al., 2012), that people tend to have strong opinions about. Third, young people are highly literate in new media and have daily exposure to a wide range of mass media that plays an important role in promoting and reinforcing consumer values. The target group can thus be reached  through  other  channels  than  usual.  “However, rather than being passive recipients of media culture, young people demonstrate high levels of media literacy and routinely reconstruct media messages.”   (Fien et al., 2008):58. Engagement

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from the target group is thus more successfully achieved, if extended use of new media is implemented into the marketing strategy.

1.7 Structure of the thesis

Chapter 1: Introduction and problem formulation

• Introduction • Problem formulation • Delimitation • Thesis structure

Chapter 2: Background and research design

• Theoretical approach • Literature on second hand clothing • Methodology • Key findings

Chapter 3: Analysis and creation of the social marketing strategy

• Idetifying barrier and benefits • Determining impact and propability • The social marketing strategy

Chapter 4: Discussion and conclusion

• Discussion • Conclusion • Future implications • Limitatitions

Introduction and problem formulation Background and research design Analysis and creatin of the social marketing strategy Discussion and conclusion

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Chapter 2: Background and research design In chapter 2, the background and research design of the thesis is explained. The theoretical framework and theoretical approach as well as the methodology and theory of science applied in the thesis, will thus be outlined.

2.1 Theoretical framework The overall structure of the thesis is formed around social marketing. More specifically, the groundwork of the community based social marketing approach, from the book Fostering Sustainable Behavior by McKenzie-Mohr ((McKenzieMohr, 2013). Following four of the five stages of the theory, as the fifth is fullscale implementation, will enable me to form a social marketing strategy for the Danish Red Cross and their 230 second hand stores, in order to get more customers into the shops. In the following section the theoretical structure of the thesis is reviewed and complimenting theories introduced and elaborated. Hvordan hænger teorierne sammen

2.1.1 Social Marketing The thesis will use social marketing to develop a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross, as traditional marketing approaches have had little success when aiming  to  change  peoples’  behavior  and  lifestyle (Peattie & Peattie, 2009). Social marketing holds behavior change as its bottom line, is customerdriven, and emphasizes creating attractive exchanges that encourage the desired behavior (Andreasen, 2002). “Most programs to foster sustainable behavior rely upon large-scale information campaigns. These campaigns are usually based in one of two perspectives   regarding   changing   behavior   […]   Attitude-Behavior approach and Economic Self-Interest approach   […] numerous studies document, that education  alone  often  has  little  or  no  effect  upon  sustainable  behavior  […]  lack   of knowledge and unsupportive attitudes are only two of the barriers that exist to a more sustainable behavior […] This view of human behavior overlooks the rich mixture of cultural practices, social interactions, social groups and institutions”. (McKenzie-Mohr, 2013)3

Using the more consumer-oriented strategy of social marketing, the aim of the social marketing strategy is a behavioral change to get more people to buy

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second hand clothes, instead of buying new clothes. This is done by identifying barriers and benefits to the desired behavior. The social marketing strategy will seek to meet as many of the six benchmark criteria devised by Andreasen as possible, to increase the likelihood of a successful marketing campaign (Gordon, 2012).

Even though Andreasen also acknowledges, that advertising will

undeniably be a big part of a program (Andreasen, 2002). Andreasen’s  six  benchmark  criteria Behavior-change is the benchmark used to design and evaluate interventions. Projects consistently use audience research to (a) understand target audiences at the outset of interventions, (b) routinely pretest intervention elements before they are implemented, and (c) monitor interventions as they are rolled out. There is careful segmentation of target audiences to ensure maximum efficiency and effectiveness in the use of scarce resources. The central element of any influence strategy is creating attractive and motivational exchanges with target audiences. The strategy attempts to use all four Ps of the traditional marketing mix; for example, it is not just advertising or communications. That is, it creates attractive benefit packages (products) while minimizing costs (price) wherever possible, making the exchange convenient and easy (place) and communicating powerful messages through media relevant to—and preferred by—target audiences (promotion). Careful attention is paid to the competition faced by the desired behavior. (Andreasen, 2002)7

True to the definition of social marketing, the behavior change is in the pride of place in the development of the marketing strategy. Second, the target audience has been carefully selected based on a customer analysis. Third, empirical data about the target audience was collected and analyzed to identify barriers to and benefits of the desired behavior. Fourth,   elements   from   the   4   P’s   of   social   marketing   and   the   7   C’s   of   social   marketing   will   be   implemented   in the development of the social marketing strategy. Finally, it is discussed whether or not it is ethical to use social marketing to promote behavioral change in a commercial NGO business area.

2.1.2 Community Based Social Marketing To initiate any type of sustainable behavior change strategy you need to determine what behaviors should be changed. In the thesis, the goal is to get more people to buy second hand clothing. More specifically, the behavior revolves around getting more people into the Red Cross second hand stores, as

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my investigation shows, that once people are in the store they tend to buy something every time (49%) or every other time (40%) (Nyvang, 2013). Second, you need to identify barriers and benefits to the desired behavior. When identifying the barriers and benefits, I will take an offset in Thøgersen’s   Motivation-Opportunity-Ability-Behavior model (MOAB). The MOAB model will enable me to categorize the identified barriers into groups, to understand the sub-barriers to action, be it a motivational, opportunity or ability barrier. In turn, this will streamline the final marketing strategy, as it will function as part of the suggested solution. Third, you need to determine the level of impact and penetration in order to single out a target group. In order to   do   that,   I   will   include   Prochaska’s   transtheoretical model of the Stages of Change. The four stages of change are called

Pre-contemplation,

Contemplation,

Preparation,

and

Action

&

Maintenance. The four groups allow me to divide the segments into smaller groups of which I can eliminate target groups of no interest. The Stages of Change Model will thus allow me to select a specific target group to which the level of impact and penetration are the highest, also taking into account how many resources a certain strategy would demand to be successful. Fourth, when having identified barriers and benefits to the desired behavior, and assessed the level of impact and penetration needed to get consumers to act, the actual design of the social marketing strategy can begin. Using elements of the 4   P’s   of   the Social Marketing Mix and the 7 Cs model I will develop a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross. Fifth, is the pilot testing of the social marketing strategy. A pilot of the social marketing strategy was however not conducted in relation to the thesis. Though the social marketing strategy will form the basis for future marketing campaigns at the Red Cross.

2.1.3 The MOAB for shopping second hand clothes at the Red Cross Ölander  and  Thøgersen’s  Motivation-Opportunity-Ability-Behavior Model (annex 3) is introduced in the thesis in continuation to the outline of the different existing barriers, in order to determine which elements of the behavior, the consumer experiences as  barriers  to  action.  Building  on  Icek  Ajzen’s  Theory   Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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of Planned Behavior (Ajzen, 1991),   Triandis’   Theory   of   Interpersonal   Behaviour/subjective culture model and Bagozzi & Warshaw Theory of Trying (Olander & Thogersen, 1995; Sheth, 1982), Olander   and   Thøgersen’s   model   suggests, that motivation, opportunity and ability are all an important part of the frame of reference for the study of consumer behavior with an impact on the environment (Olander & Thogersen, 1995)360. After identifying the different barriers to shopping second hand clothes, the barriers are analyzed from the perspective of the Motivation-OpportunityAbility-Behavior Model. The model allows me to examine which elements of the habitual behavior can be altered, overcoming motivational, opportunity or ability barriers to behavioral change. Motivation The motivation part of  the  model  entails,  what  the  consumers’  attitude  about  the   product and the world is. (Olander & Thogersen, 1995) argue that motivation is primarily an internal driver, that can be explained by altruism. However, motivation can be highly affected by external factors such as social norms. Reflecting on the values and beliefs of the consumer, the MOAB model treats the aspects of attitude towards the act, the subjective and social norms, and the perceived control of the act (Maclnnis, Moorman, & Jaworski, 1991; Olander & Thogersen, 1995; Thøgersen, 2009). If the consumer is motivated by either of these aspects, the behavioral intention is enlarged. This might translate into an active behavior change, if the consumer also has the ability and the opportunity   to   act   differently.   “Many – if not most – relevant behaviors are not completely voluntary. Some behaviors demand abilities that are not available to everyone and others are contingent on external conditions that may hamper or facilitate the behavior”  (Thøgersen, 2009):337 Opportunity In the MOAB model the opportunity to act is based on situational or external conditions of the consumer, that allows the behavior to be carried out. External conditions might be a barrier to engage in the desired behavior because it constrains   consumers’   psychological manifestation in perceived control

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(Thøgersen, 2009). These are also the barriers that are hardest to overcome, as they might not be approachable with marketing tools. Opportunity barriers are e.g. lack of information, transparency or trust. In the case of second hand shopping an opportunity barriers might also be that consumers have limited opportunity to find what they need, as stores do not carry specific items. Further the Red Cross does not have online sales, which could again function as a barrier to buying second hand clothing. However, internal opportunity factors can also exist, as an opportunity might not be considered as one, simply because the consumer does not experience it as such (ibid). Because it is outside the influence of the consumer, the consumer fails to make use of it and it is thus considered an external factor that limits the ability to change behavior. Ability As mentioned, motivation and opportunity alone does not ensure behavioral change, the ability to perform the act is also key. To distinguish between the force of habit and the actual ability to act, ability is further divided into habit and task knowledge, as Pieters suggests (Olander & Thogersen, 1995). Ability also refers to the financial means of the consumer as well as to the time consumption a given act costs. Ability is an internal personal characteristic that determines if the consumer is able to make a change. Changing a habit can be very difficult and it is thus key that the consumer feels able to make the change, in order to initiate engagement in the desired behavior. Behavior Habit is both an independent determinant of behavior and a moderator of intention, in the sense that situational factors influence the behavior as well as motivation, opportunity and ability. Triandi’s  Theory  of  Interpersonal  Behavior  outlines  which  intentions  are   immediate   antecedents   of   behavior.   “Behavior in any situation is, according to Triandis, a function partly of the intention, partly of the habitual responses, and partly of the situational constraints and conditions. The intention is influenced by social and affective factors as well as by rational deliberations”  (Jackson, 2005)95.

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The behavior of the second hand clothes is, according to the customer survey, motivated by low prices and the possibility of finding something unique, whereas a total of number barriers to behavioral change have been identified. Changing the habitual behavior of the consumers that do not buy second hand clothing is thus affected by the preconditions in the model. The MOAB model is dynamic, as the preconditions are affected by the behavior as well as the other way around. New habits can thus be adapted from behavior or knowledge if the consumer tries to exercise the desired behavior.

2.1.4 Stages of Change By implementing the four Stages of Change (annex 4), based on Prochaska & DiClimente’s   (1984)   work in psychotherapy and   Andreasen’s   (1995) work in social marketing, I will be able to single out the target group that is most sensitive to marketing initiatives proposing the desired behavioral change. Taking into account the level of impact and the resources demanded. “Through their study of addictive behaviors, Pochaska et al. determined that the modification of these behaviors involved a progression through four stages: Precontemplation,

Contemplation,

Preparation,

Action

&

Maintenance”.  

(McClellan, Schneider, & Perney, 1998)548. Consumers at the Pre-contemplation stage do not intend to start the healthy behavior in the near future, and may not feel that they need to change at all. Consumers at this stage will thus need information about the pros of changing behavior, and about the effects of their negative behavior on others (Andreasen, 2002; Pro-change, 2013). Consumers at the Contemplation stage have thought about the possible change and are getting ready to act. Even though they know more about the pros of the healthy behavior than the consumers in the Precontemplation stage, they still experience cons on the same level as their pros to the desired behavior. “This ambivalence about changing can cause them to keep putting off taking action”  (ibid). Consumers in the Preparation stage are ready to take action within in a short period of time, as they believe in making a behavioral change. The number one risk is if they will fail once they attempt (ibid). The risk of failure thus needs Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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to be at a minimum when pursuing behavioral change in consumers in the Preparation stage. Consumers in the Action & Maintenance stage are consumers that already engage  in  the  desired  behavior  overcoming  possible  barriers.  “Action involves the most overt behavioral changes and requires considerable commitment of time and energy” (Gwozdz et al., 2013). Maintaining the behavior to prevent a relapse is also a part of this stage. The two poles mentioned will not be of interest, as the groups are either too set in their ways and beliefs or have already adopted the desired behavior. When deciding which of the remaining two target groups to target, it is therefore key to identify how probable the target group is to change behavior and how impactful it would be. Moving between the different stages also called the process of change where the consumers weighs pros and cons of changing behavior is called the decisional balance. The decisional balance of is considered when choosing barriers and benefits to target.

2.1.5 Self-determination Theory When identifying barriers, selecting a target group and later communicating the chosen marketing strategy, it is important to appeal to the right group of people and with the right arguments. Using the psychology-based Self-Determination Theory (annex 5), I will be able to identify which communicative tools are needed to target the target group, ensuring that the act is experienced as intrinsically motivated. The self-determination theory (annex 5) portrays the human need for autonomy, for self-efficacy,   and   for   relatedness.   Unlike   Maslow’s   hierarchy   of   needs, the self-determination theory requires all three needs to be fulfilled equally and at the same time (Deci, Koestner, & Ryan, 1999). The more fulfillment of the three the better and none of the three are superior to the others (ibid). To motivate consumers it is important to provide a meaningful rational, use autonomy supportive language, be aware of cultural values and conveying respect for the target group (ibid). “If you are influenced enough in your beliefs system, you will change behavior and it will be experienced as an Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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individual intrinsic act, and thus be more natural to carry out”   (Moller, Ryan, & Deci, 2006). That way the social marketing strategy might foster long-term sustainable behavioral change. Intrinsic and extrinsic motivation Choices that are made from intrinsic motivation are the most autonomous choices possible, and use of autonomy support to motivate behavior change is often more effective than use of coercion (Moller et al., 2006). To be autonomously motivated involves feeling a sense of choice and volition as a person fully endorses his or her own actions or decisions (ibid). If you believe that you must buy a product to be accepted by others, consumptive action would be controlled and have an external perceived locus of causality (ibid). Therefore it is important to use communication styles that support and encourage volition and choice to enhance autonomous motivation. Ensuring integration with the product also ensures identified extrinsic motivation, where the behavior is valued meaningful. The autonomous motivation of integration and intrinsic motivation can ensure sustainable behavior change, with little chance of relapse. Autonomy supportive motivation is best accomplished if the person feels the need for autonomy, the need for self-efficacy and the need for relatedness. If all three are satisfied it is perceived as motivating. Compared to the Stages of Change, the consumers that are in the Action & Maintenance and Contemplation stages are at the far left of the Self-determination Continuum, either intrinsically or externally autonomously motivated. Consumers in the Pre-contemplation and Contemplation stage, that do not already engage in the desired behavior, will feel that their consumptive action would be controlled and have an external perceived locus of causality, if they chose to visit a store based on social pressure, regulatory issues, fear appeal or coercive measures. Communication to the target group thus needs to refrain from coercive language and fear appeals. The most optimal conditions for the motivation behind a behavior change is thus to use tools that support intrinsic or autonomous-supporting extrinsic motivation. Creating the most optimal settings for a behavioral change also include supporting autonomy by increasing the perceived behavioral control and making favorable attitudes and subjective norms towards the act. The three

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combined increase intention of future behavior (Ajzen, 1991). The motivational orientation is thus as positive towards the desired behavior as possible.

2.1.6 Implementation intentions Gollwitzer (1990) and Heckhausen (1991) both found that adding another layer to the Theory of Planned behavior of formulating plans specifying where and when to get started actually increased the chances of behavior change (Orbell, Hodgkins, & Sheeran, 1997). This stage is coined implementation intensions. The

post-decisional

phase

of

behavioral

intention

combined

with

implementation intentions, they state, will improve the predictive ability of intentions specified by the theory of Planned Behavior,   “because opportunities for enactment are less likely to be missed”  (Orbell et al., 1997)946. Making implementation intentions seems to ensure, that when opportunity for action presents itself, not only will it be rapidly detected, but a decisive answer on whether to engage in the activity now or later will be easily retrieved from memory […]   It is particularly likely to succeed, if the intentions are chronic or postponed. (Orbel, et al., 945)

Creating an intention  for  the  consumers’  to  visit  a  Red  Cross  store  thus  increases   the likelihood of them also doing it. Consumers to whom it is not foreign to visit the shop are reached, but the motivation of the consumers in the Preparation stage of the Stages of Change will also be enhanced. Later, having visited the store, the activation of memory will increase the likelihood of successful execution, and the stored schemas, coupled with external triggers will again increase successful execution (ibid).

2.1.7 Theoretical approach The overall social marketing approach of combining the four theories will enable me to create a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross. The MOAB model allows me to outline the different types existing barriers, the Stages of Change will be able to single out the target group that is most sensitive to marketing initiatives proposing the desired behavioral change, and the psychology based Self-Determination Theory will enable me to identify which communicative tools are needed to target the target group, ensuring that the desired behavior is

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experienced as intrinsically motivated. Identifying the barrier types and the tools   needed   to   overcome   them   will   be   assisted   by   Gollwitzer   and   Heckhausen’s   implementation intentions, to render a visit to a Red Cross store more probable.

2.1.7 The 4 P’s  of  the  Social  Marketing  Mix  and  the  7C’s The   four   P’s   of   social   marketing   is   a   further   development   of   the   classical   4   P’s   marketing of traditional marketing. The traditional marketing mix has been criticized for being outdated for the use in social marketing and Ross Gorden (2012) therefore   proposed   a   new   marketing   mix.   The   4   P’s   of   the   social   marketing mix are; First, the product equaling the behavioral change offered, second, the price of adoption of the behavioral change, overcoming potential barriers, third is the place, here referring to the channels by which behavioral change is promoted, fourth is promotion, covering the means be which behavioral change is promoted to target audience (ibid). As stated by Ross Gordon (Gordon, 2012)125,   “expanding the social marketing mix is a necessity. It should also be acknowledged that the most important consideration is identifying what can be used and what will work. If behavior change is the ultimate goal, then it should be acceptable to use any of the various strategies available to us to deliver objectives”.  Thus  the  marketing  mix  is   influenced  by  element  from  the  7  C’s  first  devised  by  Shizumu. The   7   C’s comprises the marketing mix of Communication, Cost, Commodity, Consumer, Corporation, Channel, and Circumstances (annex 6). The model is consumer and relationally focused, and recognizes the structural environment in which social marketing operates, the role of stakeholders, and competition to the desired behavior. (Gordon, 2012). Further it considers both the costs of taking action and not, as well as the consumer influences. Finally the process of developing a social marketing strategy and the intervention approaches  are  integrated  in  the  model  as  well  (ibid).  Certain  aspects  of  the  7  C’s   will be implemented in the development of the social marketing strategy in addition   to   the   4   P’s   of   the   social   marketing   mix,   in   order to enable the most extensive marketing strategy as possible.

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2.3 Methodology Firstly, the methodology chapter introduces the reader to the methodological considerations and choices constituting the research design of the thesis. Further, the chosen theory of science approach is outlined. Secondly, an explanation of the data collection of both the quantitative and the qualitative research composed in the thesis is introduced. The research purpose, design, and structure of the research are outlined, as well as the validity of the data. To be able to answer the research question of how to get more young people in the Red Cross stores, it was necessary to apply different empirical research methods. Identifying both benefits and barriers to visiting a second hand store needed investigation of both qualitative and quantitative data, which allowed me to outline the characteristics of both measures. The research design of this paper is grounded in quantitative and qualitative research given the exploratory nature of the research question. The quantitative as well as the qualitative data are subject to an inductive research method of creating a general picture of the consumers, through the attitudes expressed in the interviews. An analysis of who the customers in the second hand stores are and who they are not, as well as what their shopping motives and behaviors are, will allow me to present a overview of barriers and benefits. This overview will enable me to construct a framework of the social marketing strategy based on the empirical data. My pre-understanding of the Red Cross customers is a result of a five months internship at the Second Hand Department of the Red Cross National Office. Here I attained sound knowledge of the procedures and communication with the local branches. Further, it enabled me to conduct a consumer survey to form the basis of the thesis.

2.3.1 Theory of Science The thesis will revolve around the theory of science approach of post-positivism and the interpretitivist paradigm,   which   assumes,   that   ”reality as we know it is constructed intersubjectively through the meanings and understandings developed socially and experientially” (Cohen & Crabtree, 2006).

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Post-positivism acknowledges and accept that theories, background, knowledge and values of the researcher can influence what is observed (Henderson, 2011). Objectivity is key, while also acknowledging that there are some indefinable touch points such as values and feelings that are harder to measure and generalize. As my pre-understanding of second hand shopping is influenced by my work at the Red Cross National Office, the thesis will, no matter strong effort to remain objective, be influenced by that. Post-positivism and the interpretivist paradigm recognizes these biases, and retains from the idea of objective truths (ibid). Post-positivism also legitimizes the potential of using mixed methods (ibid). “Descombe described the value of mixed methods for getting a more complete picture of phenomena, a way to avoid biases, and a means to build analyses”(Henderson, 2011)343. Kvale and Brinkmann (Kvale & Brinkmann, 2009) state, that the use of mixed methods can be problematic, as using different methods will entangle different paradigmatic theories. However, (Kristiansen & Krogstrup, 1999) consider it a matter of course, that both interviews and questionnaires  are  applied  in  today’s  research.  To investigate both barriers and benefits of second hand clothing, mixed methods was chosen to ensure investigation of the customers in the stores and the consumers not wanting to wear second hand clothing The so-called triangulation combining different methods or types of data to clarify the same phenomenon or problem is often used in sociological research, to shed light on different point of views or perspectives. In a more figural than literal sense, developed by Denzin, the triangulation is a means of representation (Cox & Hassard, 2005), and foster that a truer picture is obtained by using multiple methods, multiple measurements or multiple levels of analysis (ibid). “Direct experience can be better understood using post-positivist reflections”(Henderson, 2011)344. The data triangulation where data are collected at different times and from different sources (Cox & Hassard, 2005)is used to overcome problems of biases and validity (ibid), to enable a more nuanced analysis of the barriers and benefits of second hand shopping.

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2.3.2 The quantitative intercept interviews 2.3.2.1 Research purpose The purpose of the investigation was to identify who the customers in the Red Cross stores are. No previous research has ever been done in the stores, and the investigation was as much of a tool of identifying the current customers in the Red Cross stores, as it was to answer why they visited the store. The development of the interview guide therefore tried to answer both who the customers are and what their experience of the stores is. Prior to the customer survey, the general picture of the customer in the Red Cross stores was an older woman, that visited the store frequently. These women are not frequent users, if at all, of the internet, and conducting an online survey would thus prove insufficient. In order to get the most fair representation of the customers, the interviews were conducted face to face, instead of using online questionnair tools. 2.3.2.2 Research design The positivistic philosophy that demands data to be quantitative (Kvale & Brinkmann, 2009), in order to discover the general laws of the target audience, form the basis of the empirical research methods unveiling customer demographics and psychographics. A customer survey was conducted in eight Red Cross stores, interviewing a total of 112 customers. The 112 intercept interviews in the eight Red Cross store were conducted to  gather  information  about  the  costumers’  shopping  patterns  and  to  be  able  to   identify the benefits of shopping there. Intercepting the shoppers in the stores for a short interview permits a sufficient sample size and ensures, that consumers actually engaging in the desired behavior are reached. 2.3.2.3 Research structure The development of the customer analysis followed the seven steps outlined below, and set out to unveil, who visited the stores and why.

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The customer analyses described in 7 phases (Kvale & Brinkmann, 2009)

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Examination of who the customers are in the Red Cross stores and why they shop there

Design Interview Transcriptions Analysis Verification Report

Short interviews with 112 respondents in the Red Cross stores Semi-structured interviews were carried out through the use of a questionnaire. The questions were discussed with the respondent All questionnaires were filled in simultaneously with the respondents answering The 112 interviews were digitalized using Surveymonkey, to ease the data extraction. Further analyses using excel. The reliability and validity of the survey was weighed against results in the individual stores to ensure uniformity The survey resulted in an analysis report handed in for future use in the Red Cross second hand marketing activities

The more spontanious the interview procedure is, the likelier it is, that you get more spontanious, vivid and unexpected answers (ibid). However, the more structured the interview situation is, the easier the later conceptual structuring of the interviews in the analyses is (Kvale & Brinkmann, 2009). Conducting semi-structured interviews using a questionnaire as an interview guide, allowed respondents to express further comments or elaborations, while also structuralizing the answers for further data examination. The phases of the examination process followed the structure suggested by Marckmann & Nørregård-Nielsen (2008).

Target group

Spot testing

Quetionnaire composition

The questions

Collecting of data

The phases of the examination process (Marckmann & Nørregård-Nielsen, 2008)

2.3.2.4 Research population As the purpose of the customer analysis was to investigate who visited the store, no demographic or geographic restrictions were employed in the population selection. The purpose of the customer survey was to ask as wide a population as possible to enable the most true and fair analysis of the existing customers. In order to get as wide a customer contribution as possible I visited eight different stores in Denmark, both in Jutland and on Zealand. The respondents were of all age groups and both men and women. The focus of the thesis is young men and women between 16-30. That is the age group the Red Cross would like to have more focus on, further it is also the age group most prone to act pro-

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environmental (Butler & Francis, 1997), while also expressing the least interest towards the implications of fast consumption (Morgan & Birtwistle, 2009)This paradox is in itself one of the existing barriers, to why more young people do not buy second hand shopping. 2.3.2.5 Research area The

customer

survey

was

conducted in eight Red Cross stores in

Frederiksværk,

Viborg,

Ringkøbing, Solrød, Nørrebrogade, Vestergade, Allerød and Hørsholm. When selecting the stores, it was important, that both big and small cities were represented as well as both Zealand and Jutland. The criteria for choosing these eight stores were; location, difference in store

turnover

and

size,

and

difference  in  the  municipalities’  inhabitants’ average income. Location Jutland Viborg Ringkøbing Zealand Hørsholm Vestergade Solrød Nørrebrogade Allerød Frederiksværk

Turnover

Inhabitant average income

1.473.268 860.881

290.000-320.000 290.000-320.000

1.444.503 1.405.022 836.846 797.756 755.716 209.506

380.000 + 0-290.000 380.000 + 0-290.000 380.000 + 290.000-320.000 Store turnover (annex1)

2.3.2.6 Pretesting and revision In the beginning the questionnaire was intended to be answered by the respondents with no interference from me. However, after testing the questionnaire on a group of people, I changed that approach to a more open interview, using the questionnaire as an interview guide instead. The interview Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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form allowed the respondent to be able to answer more elaborately and it gave me a chance to question their statements, if needed. The questionnaire was thus used as an interview guide with limited possible answers that would enable me to group the answers, while also leaving room for comments. The danger of this approach is that I could influence the respondent, however I was aware of this and tried not to influence the respondents in any way. 2.3.2.7 Reliability and validity The reliability and validity of the survey is ensured, as the interviews were conducted in eight different stores and consisted of more than 100 interviews making the basis for the analysis as true and fair as possible. The individual visits in the stores and the following short interviews are only a thumbnail of sketch, but combined the eight different stores form a representative basis for analysis, the external validity is thus considered to be true and fair, as the amount of interviews justify some sort of generalization of the findings. Further, the likelihood of a different researcher recovering different findings do exist, as it is only a thumbnail sketch, however the internal validity of the interviews are considered to be true and fair as well, as conformity of the interview guide ensure consistency in the interviews as well as in the analysis of these (annex 7). More people in Ringkøbing and Solrød participated in the survey and the responses of these two areas were weighed against the totals, in order to cross check that it did not disturb the overall picture. Only two inconsistencies were identified; In Ringkøbing the customer weighed the good cause and finding unique clothes a little higher than the average, and in Solrød most prioritize the low prices higher than the cause and the uniqueness of the clothes. Other than that, the general representation of the customers was comparable throughout the survey, and it is concluded that the general picture is true and fair.

2.4 The qualitative interviews 2.4.1 Research purpose Forming the basis of my investigation of the existing barriers to buying second hand clothes, I carried out four personal interviews with respondents who do not wear second hand clothes. The aim of the personal interviews was thus to Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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investigate the knowledge, habit, cognitive capabilities, and other resources of young Danish consumers, all entailed in the MOAB model. Further, the barrier identification process was subject to reviewing articles, reports and online forums and observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores. The research purpose of the personal interview is thus exploratory, as it is not fully discovered which concepts play a part in the explored behavior, from the offset. This is a consequence of the fact that only a very little amount of research has been done on the area before. Because it is not fully explored all identified barriers will be elaborated and considered for further analysis, to predict how to get more people to overcome these barriers and visit the Red Cross second hand stores. Once the analysis has identified the most probable barriers to target, the recommendations for the final social marketing strategy for the Red Cross will be proposed. 2.4.2 Research design The qualitative personal interviews set the basis for the analysis of the existing barriers. The interview guide was build on a review of articles, reports and online forums all with the focus on sustainable or second hand clothes as well as consumer behavior (annex 8). The qualitative research method is a tool to understand the world and attitudes of the interviewee, and extract the meaning connected to their shared experiences to be able to uncover their lifeworld. According to Kvale & Brinkmann (Kvale & Brinkmann, 2009) the purpose of the qualitative research interview is to understand the themes in the experienced day-to-day life of the interviewee perspective. The semi-structured lifeworld interview, used in the thesis, is defined as an interview that has the intention of collecting detailed descriptions of the lifeworld of the interviewee, in preparation for an interpretation of the described phenomena (ibid). The interview guide for the qualitative personal interviews was developed with the overall purpose of getting more exhausted information about the existing barriers. The five main research questions were:

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What attracts you when shopping, and what need does it cover? Does utilitarian motives play a part in the shopping behavior? Do people have prejudice about shopping for second hand clothes? Which barriers do you experience to wearing second hand clothes? To what extent does self-perception matter in regards to second hand?

Interview questions were then developed to answer the five research questions (annex 7). The interview guide thus existed of 18 interview questions and took approximately 30 minutes to carry out. 2.4.3 Research structure The structure of the personal interviews is much like an everydayconversation, however when used as a scientific approach, it entails a very specific approach and interview technique (ibid). The introduction to the interview is used to set the stage for the interview. Following the phenomenological approach to interviews, most questions were open, to allow the interviewee to interpret the question from her own pre-understanding and answer as freely as possible, while also describing attitudes and prejudice towards sustainability and second hand clothing, the Red Cross stores, the signal value of clothes, and their own creation of identify through clothes. The interview guide served as a frame for the interview, however the order of the questions as well as the tone was adjusted to the situation to allow a more fluent conversation. This permitted the conversation to go in the direction the interviewee wanted to express her experiences with second hand clothes. 2.4.4 Population The purpose of the thesis is to get more people into the Red Cross stores, unveiling barriers to a behavioral change. The interviewees thus needed to be young people that do not wear second hand clothes and do not really want to either. Targeting these specific young people would ideally reveal all the existing barriers to shopping in the Red Cross stores. The four interviewees were all a part of my social circle, as I identified the four to be fairly reluctant to the concept of wearing second hand clothes themselves. The interviews were set up to test my hypothesis from my own Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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experience in the stores and the review of online fora and articles on the matter, in order to move away from own prejudice. According to Kvale and Brinkmann (2009:134), in regular interview settings, the number of respondents is typically about 5 to 25 people. It is a combination of time and resources available to the investigation. Further is the law of decreasing output of new information. Increasing the number of respondents will to a certain extent give lesser and lesser new knowledge. To my best conviction four interviews were sufficient, to question my hypothesis and acquire new knowledge.

2.5 Key findings of the customer survey The general assumption at the Red Cross was that the customers are altruistically motivated by the good cause and that it is a contributing factor to them shopping there at all. Further, the typical customer is a woman aged 50+. These assumptions  were  based  on  the  volunteering  personnel’s  experiences  and   other feedback delivered to the National Office from the stores (annex 2).

2.5.1 Demographics The interviews revealed, that the age difference is much wider than anticipated. App. 20 pct. of the customers is 16-29 years old, and another 20 pct. is 30-45 years old. The biggest part of the customers were 46-65 years old (38 pct.), but it was also the age group with the widest age span. With regards to occupation, 13 pct. were students, 40 pct. were employed, 5 pct. were selfemployed, 36 pct. were retired and 6 pct. were unemployed. Furthermore, the survey showed, that 19 pct. of the customers is in fact men. As the demographic characteristics of the customers now have been identified as all age groups, from all over the country, an even spread in occupation – from student to retired, and mainly women, the psychographics of the customers will help to identify why they shop there and how best to target them in the future.

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2.5.2 Psychographics As research has identified, older people are more altruistically motivated, and want to give something back to the world (Solomon et al., 2010), but younger people are far more preoccupied with saving money and finding something unique. Thus 57 pct. the respondents over 65 year identified the good cause as an important parameter, while only 30 pct. of the 16-29 year olds did. There is no doubt that consumer values play an integral role, when people choose to shop at the Red Cross stores. Besides an ethical reason for wearing second hand clothes, it was also identified, that aesthetics is in play, when shopping at the Red Cross stores. Finding a unique piece of clothing, that no one else has and that cannot easily be acquired motivates the costumers to buy second hand clothing. 62 pct. of the respondents said, that it was because it was cheap, and 54 pct. said, that it was to find a unique piece of clothing. When directly asked, 80 pct. of the respondents say, that they do not miss any information about Red Cross activities, what the profits go to, or the environmental gains. You can therefore argue, that The Red Cross has a strong enough brand to focus future campaigns on a younger part of the customers, as the brand might render some of the national aid campaigns superfluous.

2.5.3 Shopping patterns The  chances  of  not  living  up  to  future  customers’  expectations  is  always  a  risk,  as   almost every person has a position on second hand clothing, be it good or bad. However, the Red Cross is doing something right, when the customers are in stores. 49 pct. buy something every time they are there and another 40 pct. every other time they are there. Furthermore 57 pct. of the customers also said, that they buy for others too, when they shop at the Red Cross stores. On a scale for 1-5 of how satisfied the respondents are with the stores, they rated it to 4. Especially women aged 46-64 are very satisfied with the stores and rate it to 4.2. 81 pct. of the 46-64 year old shop there once a week, often more. The same applies to 75 pct. of the customers over 65, and to 61 pct. of the 16-29 year olds.

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2.5.4 Conclusion The key findings of the customer survey were, that there is much more young men and women in the stores than anticipated and that they were attracted to the stores more because of the unique clothes and the low prices, than the altruistic motivation previously assumed. The Red Cross brand however, plays an integral part in this, as the customers already know, that they support a good cause, when shopping there.

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Chapter 3: Analysis and creation of the social marketing strategy In chapter 3, the analysis of barriers and benefits is conducted. The analysis of the existing barriers will be dealt with using the MOAB model, the Stages of Change model and the Self-determination Theory. Further, the chapter will analyze the existing benefits to second hand shopping. The benefits will be analyzed focusing on the probability of them aiding a behavioral change using social marketing. Finally, the analysis will result in the creation of a social marketing   strategy   for  the   Red   Cross,   based   on   the   4   P’s   of   social   marketing   and   elements  of  the  7  C’s  Compass  model.

3. Analysis of Barriers and Benefits Uncovering barriers and benefits involves four steps. Firstly, reviewing relevant articles and reports. Secondly, carrying out observations of people engaging in the behavior you wish to promote, as well as the behavior you wish to dissuade people from participating in. Thirdly, conducting interviews to explore in-depth attitudes. Fourthly, building the information obtained from the interviews, conduct a survey with a random sample of your target audience (McKenzieMohr, 2006). The latter was however not carried out, as the interviews were used to gain insights into the consumer attitudes on second hand shopping, rather then testing hypotheses. Conducting the investigation of barriers and benefits is intended to enable the Red Cross to lower barriers and highlight the benefits of the desired behavior, through a conduction of a social marketing strategy.

3.1 Barriers to action Since barriers that prevent individuals from engaging in sustainable behavior are activity-specific, community-based social marketers begin to develop a strategy   only   after   they   have   identified   a   particular   activity’s   barriers   and   benefits. Once these barriers and benefits have been identified, you can develop a social marketing strategy to remove the barriers and enhance the benefits. (McKenzie-Mohr, 2013)9

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Thus, the first step towards creating a social marketing strategy for the Danish Red Cross stores is to identify why consumers do not visit the stores, and what specific barriers they have for not doing so. In the process of reviewing articles and reports, observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores (spring 2013), and interviewing consumers with no interest in wearing second hand clothing, I have identified 14 potential barriers to action. When identifying barriers to action, it is important to recognize, that for every individual there is a different set of barriers to every activity (McKenzieMohr, 2006), for every activity there are different specific behaviors (ibid), and that these behaviors can be intrinsically or extrinsically motivated (Moller et al., 2006), no matter if they are internally or externally influenced (Clark, Kotchen, & Moore, 2003). Barriers to action are thus a delicate matter that demands examination of all possible behavior-specific variables, that supervene in consumers’  consumption  behavior, to identify which fostered behaviors are the most impactful to target.

3.1.1 Barriers to action from The Red Cross’ point of view Prior to my investigations, the Red Cross had no idea who their costumers are. I sat out to investigate it, in order to determine how best to meet the existing barriers and communicate with the consumers. In the making of a customer typology it became clear, that no single segment could be deemed as more attractive than others, in regards to geography or demographics, values or belief, which makes it hard to paint a full picture of the customers in the stores. However ”sometimes  marketers  create   their   strategies   with   a   “typical”   customer   in   mind.   This   stereotype   may   not   be   correct   because   the   actual   customer   may   not   match   these   assumptions”  (Solomon et al., 2010:581). The Red Cross has always marketed the stores to the older part of the population, as it was this segment that were seen as the core consumers. The customer analysis identified, that that was not the case – thus, the Red Cross now needs to put much more focus on the younger consumers. Consequently, the Red Cross did not have any indications of why people do not shop in the stores either. With the knowledge concluded from my Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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customer analysis and with external consulting the Red Cross have later identified three barriers to shopping in the stores. Firstly, the employees are old and cannot function as fashion guides or stylists. Secondly, the impression of the stores is a bit dusty and non-homogenous. Thirdly, the assortment in the stores is heterogeneous, messy and does not meet the assortment of competitors like vintage fashion stores and design flee markets. (Personal communication, Red Cross, November 15, 2013). Naturally, these barriers also emerged in my examination of the barriers, when later interviewing people that did not like wearing second hand clothes.

3.1.2 Barriers  to  action  from  the  customers’  point of view Using the framework suggested by Ölander and Thøgersen, I will take an offset in their MOAB Model, when identifying the existing barriers, in order to determine which elements of the behavior, the consumer experiences as barriers to action.

In continuation to that, the Stages of Change Model is

introduced, to determine how probable it is, that the consumer will in fact change behavior. In the following section, the 14 identified barriers are listed. The barriers are divided into four categories, as some of the behaviors identified are a part of a bigger picture. The four are; shop appearance, self-perception, prejudices, and structural barriers. The individual barriers are however treated separately, as the barriers should be treated differently when overcoming them. Further, every type of barrier is examined for the type of problem, be it motivation, opportunity or ability, and finally, I will determine whether the target audience is likely to be prone, resistant or unable to overcome that specific behavior. This, together with the use of the theory of The Stages of Change will allow me to single out the most optimal barriers to target in the social marketing strategy.

3.1.3 Shop appearance In this category the   barriers   regarding   the   Red   Cross   store’s appearance are outlined. A total of three barriers are identified from reviewing articles, reports

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and online fora, observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores, and interviewing consumers with no interest in wearing second hand clothing. The three identified barriers regarding shop appearance are Shop appearance barriers The  stores  are  messy,  there’s  too  little  space  and  it  is  dirty   The window displays Shop environment

The  stores  are  messy,  there’s  too  little  space  and  it  is  dirty   ”My  general  impression  has  been  that  the  stores  are  a  bit  messy and difficult to navigate  through,  if  you  don’t   know  exactly  what  you’re  going  for  […]  there  is   just  so  much  for  sale” (Pernille Aarup, 27).

When asked to express their immediate thoughts on the stores, the interviewees stated that their impression of the Red Cross stores was that they have a lot of clothes crammed into a space that does not have the capacity for it all. Therefore, the general perception of the store will probably come off as being messy, crammed and untidy. This barrier is one that influences the shopping experience in such a negative way, that the customers will feel reluctant to revisit the stores. From  the  Red  Cross’  point  of  view, this barrier is structural. The amount of clothes ordered by the stores and the feeling of the stores being crammed up is a result of volunteers’ perception of when the store is too crammed. Visiting the different stores, it became very clear, that every store is very individually managed. A small store in Solrød, where there is enough clothes to fill up a second store compared to the store at Nørrebrogade, where there is a lot of free space and bright lights. The two stores obviously target two very different target audiences, probably unintentionally. The barrier  is  rooted  in  the  customers’ motivation to shop at the stores. A store  atmosphere  that  evokes  pleasure,  can  increase  customers’  spending,  time   spent in the store, and the desire to come back (Groeppel-Klein, 2005) However, the perception of the stores being crammed and dirty is so engrained in the most reluctant consumers of second hand clothes, that the probability of them being reluctant or unable to overcome this barrier is quite high. The consumers that identify it as a barrier are at Contemplation or Preparation stage, as they identify the store as unattractive, and feel no need to visit the stores as it looks right now. However, the consumers might also be in the Preparation stage, as they Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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might be keener to shopping there, if the stores were attractive and welcoming. Further, if the stores were tidied up a bit, the consumer might not be as resistant to visiting one. It should be said however, that when inviting skeptical consumers in, there is a risk of confirming their anticipations about the stores, be it positive or negative. Thus it is important to get the exterior surrounding in place, before inviting skeptic consumers in. The window displays “Your window displays are like billboards for your store. They can be the make-orbreak factor in whether a customer enters your shop or walks on by. Yet too often, small retailers create windows that are boring, cluttered or poorly lit” (Porter, 2012). The customers need to feel inspired to perceive the possible use of a specific item. If the windows do not express curiosity or a little boldness, the customers can find it hard to see the usage of the clothes in relation to the rest of the  customer’s  wardrobe.   I lack inspiration and imagination when looking at the windows and the many clothes stands in the second hand clothing stores, which makes me unlikely to buy   anything.   I   mean,   you   don’t   exactly   ask   your   grandmother   for   fashion   advice either (Aarup, 2013). It depends on what is displayed – that’s  the  image  set  to  the  “outside  world”.   E.g. Røde Kors / Folkekirken vs. Prag [vintage second hand] – where I feel that Røde Kors etc. often display clothes that seem old, very used etc. while Prag manage to display more modern second hand things if that makes sense (Juliusdottir, 2013)

Currently, the volunteers decorate the windows at the Red Cross stores. But as the volunteers have a mean age of 60+ (Personal communication, Røde Kors, April 2014), the windows often reflect that, resulting in an old-fashioned looking window display. That does not attract any new customers, let alone any young customers. Stickers, streamers, posters, and pictures of proposed window designs are provided by the national office. It is, however, up to the individual stores, whether they want to use any of it. The   customers’   opinion   of   the   window   displays   rest   on   their   ability   to   interpret the windows – their task knowledge of mixing old and new clothes. If the customers do not know how to mix and match old clothes with the new, or

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simply cannot visualize ever wearing   the   ‘old’   close   in   the   windows, the likelihood of them ever visiting the store will decrease exponentially. Reversely, if the stores were able to capture the eyes of the many passing consumers, more people would visit the store, thereby being prone to change the habitual behavior of passing by without entering. The barrier is thus a question of ability to interpret the window, or look beyond the non-professional window display. The consumers are at the Contemplation or Preparation stage, as they have thought about shopping there, but have not felt attracted by the window displays. A visit might be more probable, if the store was better at selling it self through the windows. Shop environment: The shop environment plays an integral part in the shopping experience. Thus it is vital, that the customers get a good impression of the Red Cross stores when they visit them. Unfortunately, that is not always the impression people have of second hand stores. An example is that the Red Cross National Office has experienced getting letters from customers that have been thrown out of a store, because they were making too much of a mess and not even wanting to buy anything (Personal communication, Røde Kors, November 2013).

This is

probably a result of the demographics of the volunteers in the shops. As identified in the customer analysis there is a breach between who the volunteers   experience   as   the   ‘most   common   customer’   and   the   customers   that   actually visit the stores. Thus, the leverage from the volunteers is mainly on the like-minded older women, discarding the fact that many young people shop there as well. After my customer survey, it became clear however, that the age composition of the customers is much more diverse than first assumed. To attract more young people to the stores, focus must thus be centered more on the younger consumers in the stores. When inviting more young people into the stores, the Red Cross must therefore recognize, that the existing barrier of a slightly unwelcoming shop environment  must  be  treated.    From  the  customers’  point  of  view,  this  is  a  matter   of motivation and the attitude towards the act. A young customer would presumably expect the same kind of service, as an older customer would get.

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I   do   most   of   my   shopping   in   VILA   or   H&M.   In   H&M   for   example,   I   don’t   expect   to get the best service, like I expect, if I shop in Designers Remix. In a Red Cross store however, I would really expect good service. I mean, they work voluntarily, so they must be happy to be there (Yasin, 2013)

The example of a customer being asked to leave is derived from one single complaint, and does not constitute a structural problem in all of the Red Cross stores. However, communication between the National office and the local department could be optimized with regards to avoiding aggravating episodes, like the one described. With that in mind, the consumers will be prone to change behavior, if the volunteers met all customers in the same way. Another perspective of the in-store environment is the old-fashioned décor, styled by the volunteers. According to Groeppel-Klein, one of the three arousal inducing stimuli when shopping is the use of arousal appealing; mannequins, scents, warm colors, and plants are affective in-store stimuli (2005). Another stimulus is bright lights and visually striking price tags, and the last being vivid-looking mannequins or unexpected decorations (ibid). As expressed previously, two of the interviewees explicitly mentioned, that the store arrangement and the window display do not appeal to them. Currently, the stores do not comply with any of the three stimuli identified by Groeppel-Klein, and this barrier is thus an area with room for improvement. The consumers that experience the shop environment as a barrier are at the Pre-contemplation stage. The do not express any desire to visit the store, regardless. However, according to the customer analysis, it is worth noting, that the current customers in the Red Cross stores are happy about the shop appearance, and do not explicitly mention/identify any faults. On a scale of 1 – 5, the customers scored their satisfaction with the stores as 4.0. Especially women at the age of 46-65 years were satisfied with the stores and scored them at 4.2 (annex 5). The rejecters of the second hand clothes are thus lacking the motivation to shop at the Red Cross stores, more specifically their attitude towards the act is impaired.

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Shop appearance in retrospect The Red Cross stores’   appearance   matters   a   great   deal,   when   customers   are   asked about their opinion about the stores. The analysis of the three identified barriers established, that the stores have some work to be done, in order to live up to customers demand. Of the three, only two are changeable for the Red Cross short-term; the window displays and the feeling of it being messy. They would both benefit from a more contemporary design. Organizing the stores more as well as streamlining or professionalizing the window displays would attract hesitant consumers, as they would now be more likely to visit the stores. A root-and-branch change of changing the store environment, however, might be a much longer process. The consumers that identified the two barriers are at the Contemplation stage of the Stages of Change model, and resources to battle these barriers will be further examined for the probability of consumer change and whether it would be a waste of energy to pursue barrier discontinuation, when creating the social marketing strategy for the Red Cross.

3.1.4 Perceptions In this category perceptions about wearing second hand clothes are examined. A total of four barriers are identified from reviewing articles, reports and online fora, observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores, and interviewing consumers with no interest in wearing second hand clothing. The four identified barriers regarding perceptions are Perceptual barriers The clothes are used for and seen as dressing up The clothes smell It is a taboo to wear second hand clothing Shopping in a second hand store is for the poorer people

As perception is defined as the process by which stimulus are selected, organized and interpreted

(Solomon, Bamossy, Askegaard, & Hogg, 2010),

sights, smells, sounds and textures come into play, when consumers describe barriers to second hand shopping.

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The clothes are used for and seen as dressing up The clothes in the second hand stores are cheap. Because of that, some people use the clothes for costume parties and for theater. As fashion consumption and clothes in general is seen as a part of our planned behavior, some people would never wear second hand clothing, as it would not be congruent with what they wanted to represent. In that sense, second hand clothing would probably never end   up   in   such   peoples’   closets.   Except   maybe,   if   it   was   part   of   a   dress   up   costume. If I met somebody I knew in a second hand store, I would not be embarrassed. The people that know me, would know, that I was not being serious about shopping there. (Yasin,2013) Second hand clothing is   not   for   me.   I   don’t   like   the   fact,   that   somebody   else   wore  it  before  me,  and  that  I  don’t  know  who  it  is.  I  buy  the clothes for costume parties, because I only have to wear it once. (Juliusdottir, 2013)

There is nothing wrong with using second hand clothes for costume parties, but as the sole purpose for some consumers, the diffuseness deserves to be investigated further. The barrier is a motivational one, as subjective norms as well as the attitude towards the act, play a part in the decision-making. The consumers that view the clothes as only fit for costume parties share many of the same buying motives as consumers who do not feel it is their style, however, these consumers lack the ability, more specifically the knowledge of how, to shop for second hand clothes on a daily basis, as the clothes do not match their subjective norms, and because they simply do not have the ability to mix it with new clothes. The consumers that deem this a barrier do second hand shop sometimes. However, they are at the Contemplation stage of the Stages of Change, as they are not quite ready to move towards more actively wearing second hand clothes, due to social norms. The clothes smell. No matter if I talk to The Second Hand Department at The Red Cross, the customers already in the stores, or the consumers, that have not yet visited a

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second hand clothing store, they identify smell as a very important factor for choosing to shop in a store or not. The perceptional processes where the physical sensations such as sights, sounds, and smells are selected, organized and interpreted have a huge impact on our perception of a product ((Solomon et al., 2010)When shopping at a second hand store, some people experience, that the clothes have a very characteristic smell of clothes moth and stuffiness. The smell in itself is very unattractive to some customers and will result in these customers not shopping at the second hand stores. “It  might  be  a  bit  superficial,  but  there  is  a  very  distinct   smell in second hand stores, which I associate with something old and not very clean. It might not be true, but I think it is. (Yasin, 2013) The Red Cross states, that the volunteers in the stores are actually quite proud, that their stores do not have the characteristic smell otherwise associated with second hand stores (Email, Ann-Christin, November15, 2013). However, according to my investigations the consumers that rarely visit any second hand stores, along with those that do, do not differentiate the Red Cross stores from other second hand stores when it comes to smell. Far from it. In this case, the barrier exists on the individual level and the problem is a question of motivation and perceived control. Further, it is also a question of raising awareness to the fact, that the Red Cross stores in fact do not have the characteristic second hand clothing smell. I think it can be cool for some people. If the clothes and the vibe of second hand clothes fit their personal style, it usually looks great. I have no prejudices about wearing   second   hand   clothes   and   I   wouldn’t   mind buying clothes there if it didn’t   smell and the Red Cross carried more of the clothes I like. (Pedersen, 2013)

The smell is a key barrier, to what most people associate with second hand clothes. The people that view it as a barrier, that is not easily overcome, will experience the act of second hand shopping as compromising their perceived control of not wanting to. If the clothes did not smell, they would be more prone to buying it. They are therefore at the Contemplation phase of the Stages of Change.

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From  the  Red  Cross’  perspective,  it  is  a  structural  barrier  that  is  not  very   easily overcome, as it would require a complete change in the administrative procedure involving 228 individual stores, which would be too much for the Red Cross to initiate, to make sure, that it did in fact not smell, before marketing it. It is a taboo to wear second hand clothing At the numerous online debate fora for parents with small children people discuss whether it is okay to buy second hand clothes for their children. These debates are also rampant in newspapers and the weekly magazines, all with the headline of whether it is disgusting or not. The tone of voice in the debates is very sharp and the opinions divided on two separate convictions. I would never buy second hand clothes. I actually think it would be quite embarrassing. (Baby, 2008) I have a friend that has recently given birth. So I asked her, if she wanted to look  through  Liam’s  old  clothes,  to  see  if  there  was  something  she  could  use.  To   my   surprise   her   response  was   “NO.   My   child   will   NOT   be   wearing   second   hand   clothes. (Baby, 2008) I’m on social benefits and buy all my clothes in second hand stores or at super markets.   I   feel   really   good   about   that.   I’m   always   proud   when   I   buy   second   hand clothes at a bargain compared to regular store prices. I did the same when I had a job. To me it is a win-win situation – I save a lot of money and the money I do spend go to an organization that supports a good cause. I really don’t  think  you  should  be  ashamed  of  wearing  second  hand  clothes. (Warren, 2013)

In Denmark however, the tendency is changing, as fashion dictates retro-clothes and second hand shopping, and more and more young people wear a mix of new and old clothes (Langbo-Friis, 2013). Young people thus have a higher likelihood of wearing second hand clothing, despite of older generations dissociation. The barrier is rooted in the motivation of the consumers. The subjective norms and the influences of peers, as well as the perceived control and attitude towards the act, play a part in the perceiving of second hand clothes. A cultural barrier like this is hard to define when it comes to the probability of the consumers overcoming it. The consumers that experience this as a barrier will be at the Pre-contemplation and Contemplation stage of the Stages of Change. Some would never consider wearing it, while others are not as dismissive to the behavioral change. Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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Shopping in a second hand store is for the poorer people Social status and fashion go hand in hand. For several generations second hand clothes have signaled lower social status and that belief is still rooted in part of the older population in Denmark (kilde) The first time my mother-in-law heard, that I was buying second hand clothing for Liva, she almost choked on her coffee. It was clear, that she considered it to be outright disgusting. (Baby, 2008) The other day I heard a friend talk about social security claimants and second hand   clothing.   I   don’t   naturally   link   the   two   together.   I   have   a   good   income,   but I think its fun to find something unique in the stores. (Toluna, 2012)

The view of second hand clothes being only for the poor is a self-fulfilling prophecy. The consumers with this perception would never visit the store, where they would most likely meet some of their peers. According to my costumer survey, the customers are of all ages and social layers of society and do not limit itself to poor people. The price is undoubtedly a factor for the Red Cross customers, but the chance of finding a unique piece of clothing weighs more in their decision to shop for second hand clothing. Second hand clothing has become a big part of the fashion and everyday picture of Copenhagen as well as other larger cities in Denmark ((Overbjerg, 2011; Pedersen, 2013). At the Copenhagen Fashion Week in August 2013, it was a declared goal to get more people to recycle last-season’s   clothes.   The   minister   for   the   environment, Ida Auken, then stated; If the Danish fashion industry can both create new styles and clothes while also getting more people wear second hand clothes, they can create an entirely new business model – Earning money from leasing clothes, deposit regimes, or from repossession of used clothes. That would benefit the environment as well as change the consumption behavior of Danish consumers in general. (Clausen, 2013)

The   barrier   is   rooted   in   the   consumers’  knowledge   of   second   hand   clothing,   and   the ability to change their habitual behavior, that stands in the way of them considering wearing second hand clothing. The consumers are resistant to making any changes, however the younger consumers will undoubtedly considered   it   at   one   time   or   another,   as   it   is   a   part   of   today’s   streetscape.   The   younger consumers, that experience this prejudice a barrier is at the

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Contemplation stage of the Stages of Change. The right marketing approach might be able to change that understanding of second hand clothes. Perceptions in retrospect The perceptions about wearing second hand clothing are many. The perceptions, be it cultural or personally rooted, keeps consumers from wearing second hand clothing. The analysis identified four barriers to the desired behavior of which two are considered for further examination with regards to the probability of the consumers overcoming the barriers. The two are the attitude, that second hand clothing is for the poor and that it is a taboo to wear second hand clothes. The two could very easily overlap the barrier of second hand clothing being used primarily for dressing up as well as more information about the smell in the stores. Thought the two former will be the main focus for further analysis before choosing target barriers.

3.1.5 Self-perception In   this   category   the   barriers   concerning   the   individual’s   self-perception are outlined. A total of three barriers are identified from reviewing articles, reports and online fora, observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores, and interviewing consumers with no interest in wearing second hand clothing. The three identified barriers regarding self-perception are Self-perception barriers The clothes do not represent, what I want to represent I do not like the clothes in the stores Environmental concerns do not translate into changing shopping patterns

The clothes do not represent, what I want to represent “The   behavior  of   fashion   consumption   in   its   essence   is   to   satisfy   a   consumer’s   need   to display his social status and uniqueness”   (Groeppel-Klein, 2005; Ma, Shi, Chen, & Luo, 2012):6. Most clothes people buy, sends the signal of groups, values or norms  etc.  they  would  like  to  be  identified  with.  The  signal  might  be  “I  don’t  care   what  I  wear”,  but  that  is  a  signal  in  itself.  This  form  of  planned  behavior,  where   the immediate environment also plays an integral part in what you wear, is often

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seen in fashion consumption. (Fien et al., 2008). As interviewee Naima Yasin states; In my high school there were two groups. One group of people bought their clothes in the expensive stores in the city center, the other group was hippies who only wore second hand clothes – the second group you definitely did not want to be associated with, especially not in my circle of friends. The people I know that wear second hand clothes today are really cool, though. They have an eye for what is cool and what is not. I respect that. But I do not think they are doing it for the earth. They just want to find something cool really cheap. No   good   deed…   you   do   it   for   your   own   sake. You get to feel good about yourself too.

Among young people second hand clothes wears several different labels. Some express  the  ‘hippieness’  of  wearing  second  hand  clothes  as  a  group  they  do  not   wish to be associated with, others express, that following the newest trend does not go hand in hand with wearing last years collection or older. And others again express,  that  second  hand  clothes  is  not  a  part  of  their  peers’  fashion  style  either.   The motivation of these consumers to wear second hand clothes is very low, and the subjective norms not to wear it, play an integral part, when young people shop for clothes. Checked against the Stages of Change, these consumers are at the Pre-contemplation stage, with no intention to change behavior in the near future. I do not like the clothes in the store “It is an absolute horror to find anything that fits both my taste and my body”   (Pedersen, 2013). The interviewees identified, that the clothes in the second hand stores were not consistent with what they would like to wear. This was a result of the range of clothes as well as the size-limitations. In the local stores, the volunteers often sort the clothes. The volunteers are 60+ of age, and the clothes they keep for the store from sorting the locally donated clothes, is clothes that they like for themselves. That way a lot of the clothes that would potentially sell well with the younger customers are sent to the sorting central in Horsens. However, after the clothes have been sorted at the central in Horsens, it is divided into clothes that can be sold at home and clothes to be sold to other countries. Clothes to be sold in Denmark are then distributed to the stores in different categories. The stores can order e.g. 2 boxes or 6 pieces of assorted ladies shirts or a mixed box of quirky clothes, without Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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knowing what they get. That way clothes that target younger customers are distributed at random to the stores. In some store, they have racks with signs saying “Young  Fashion”.  Often   this   clothes   is   what   the   volunteers  consider  being   young fashion, and not quite what young people might buy. The thought of singling out specific items could work. However, the clothes must then be carefully selected before labeled “Young  Fashion”. The consumers are lacking the opportunity to buy second hand clothes, as the clothes in the stores is far from targeted at young people, thus it does not appeal to the young consumers that experience this as a barrier. Further, the interviewees display resistance to the though of shopping there regardless. The barrier is structural in the sense, that all clothes and all stores are measured by the same yardstick by the interviewees. The consumers that list this barrier as decisive for them choosing not to shop second hand clothes are in the Precontemplation stage of the Stages of Change. Environmental concerns do not translate into changing shopping patterns As argued by Solomon et al. (2010), the consumer value called conscientious consumerism speaks to people, with altruistic values, that would also value the concept of second hand shopping. The vast resources used in the production of the clothes, how the clothes are made, artificial fibers, and the lack of knowledge on clothing disposal are all poorly understood concerns (Moore & Birtwistle, 2007). This might be a contributing factor for consumers not being able to transfer environmental concerns into changing shopping patterns. Butler  and  Francis  found,  that  “protecting the environment appears to be of high importance to the consumers. However, this criterion is not taken into consideration in the actual purchasing decision” (Gwozdz et al., 2013). The customer survey completed among the second hand customers in the Red Cross stores testifies that as well. 60 pct. responded that they buy second hand clothes to save money, 54 pct. that they shopped there to find something unique, 47 pct. to support the good cause, and 22 pct. because of environmental concerns. Sustainability is really one of my biggest interests. That is probably why I do not really talk about my honest opinion about second hand clothes. There is definitely a mismatch with how I perceive myself, how I feel and how I act. (Yasin, 2013)

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You   have   to   remember,   that   people   don’t   buy   a   product   for   the   environmental   benefit. It covers a need and the environmental gain comes as something extra. With regards to fashion, the competition between criteria and goals is undoubtedly stronger. (Hermansen, 2013)

The survey identified, that it is mainly the older part of the customers that shop there to support the good cause. Only 30 pct. of the 16-29 year old customers identified it as important, while 57 pct. of the customers over 65 years identified it as important. That allows me to conclude, that it is as much the prices as the range of clothes that attracts the young customers, but not the good cause or the environmental concerns in itself. Customer values like ethics and sustainability are a contributing factor to the customers visiting the stores, but it is the aesthetic value of finding a unique piece of clothing and a question of financials, that drive them to buy second hand clothing. The consumers that are not able to translate their environmental concerns into changes in shopping patters simply lack the ability to do so. The knowledge on what the environmental impact of second hand clothes, the habit of buying new clothes, and the resources to make an actual change all come into play with this particular barrier. As these consumers realize that second hand clothes make a huge difference to the environmental impact, but do not yet act upon it, they are in the Preparation stage of the Stages of Change and are therefore prone to making changes in their habitual shopping patterns. Self-perception in retrospect The great connection of attitudes and subjective norms to behavioral intention, and subsequently to behavior, has been confirmed in various studies (Sheppard, Hartwick, & Warshaw, 1988). Fashion and self-perception simply go hand in hand. Therefore it is important, that the wave of retro and second hand clothes being  ‘in’  these  last  few  years,  is  exploited  as  much  as  possible. The analysis of the three identified barriers established, that the consumers are very aware of how wearing second hand clothing affects them. Singling out the barrier ‘I   do   not   like   the   clothes in the stores’   for   further   examination demands that I take into account the fact that self-perception is the most important component of shopping. Thus, careful consideration to how the

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clothes can be targeted more to the young customers needs to be included in the further examination.

3.1.6 Structural barriers In this category the structural barriers are listed. The barriers will be examined in the same matter as the other three categories, however structural barriers can be hard and resource demanding to change. No matter, the barriers still exist and should be taken into account regardless of changeability. The barriers could be affected by other initiatives and the identification will thus enable the Red Cross to refute some of the arguments with the gains of shopping second hand clothing. A total of four barriers are identified from reviewing articles, reports and online fora, observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores, and interviewing consumers with no interest in wearing second hand clothing. The three identified barriers regarding the structural barriers are Structural barriers Time consuming to shop for second hand clothing Lack of knowledge about second hand clothes New clothes can be almost just as cheap Second hand clothing must not legitimize overconsumption

Time consuming to shop for second hand clothing You rarely find two pieces of identical clothing in a second hand store. So if you find a shirt you really like, you are in luck, if it is also your size. Not having more that one of each piece of clothing, the second hand stores are not the place to go, if you are in a hurry and looking for something very specific, is concluded from the customer survey. No matter the good intentions of buying more second hand clothing, the fact that it is so time-consuming can be really demotivating (Henriksen, 2010). Expert in consumer behavior Thyra Uth Thomsen states, that   ”shopping for clothes in second hand stores is much more time consuming than buying brand new clothes, even though there is money to save”   (ibid). However, the report from Mistra Future Fashion, finds  it   “[…]  interesting to note, that all stages [of change] spend about the same amount of time and frequency on purchasing clothes (Gwozdz et al., 2013:52). Second hand clothing might be

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considered being more time consuming to shop for than new clothes, but the perception of time consumption might also be reinforced by the uncertainty of the assortment in the second hand stores. Shopping is often part of our leisure time, a time where we are not in as much time poverty as other hours of the day (Solomon et al., 2010), but many consumers feel, that they have never been as pressed for time as now (ibid), which in turn changes how we perceive our time poverty. With regards to the MOAB model, the barrier is perceived as a lack of ability, more specifically lack of resources. The thought of using what feels like hours and hours looking for a specific item, revealing a lack of resources to practice the wanted behavior. The consumers are at the Preparation stage of the Stages of Change, where the perception of time is the winning argument over the saving money and caring for the environment, when choosing not to shop second hand clothing.

The consumers in this segment do not dismiss the

thought of wearing second hand clothing, rather the time consumption. Thus, the consumers are prone to overcoming the barrier, if helped along. This deserves further investigation for the marketing strategy. Lack of knowledge about second hand clothes In my customer analysis it was evident, that the consumers that visit the Red Cross stores do not report a need for information about neither the Red Cross nor the environmental benefits of shopping second hand clothes. However, consumers that do not already visit the store might not be as well informed. As reported in the customer analysis, the second hand clothes is not dirty, that second hand clothes is for all ages, that second hand clothes is good for the environment, and that second hand clothes has often only been worn 20 pct. of its life span. These arguments deserve further investigation to enable the Red Cross to inform the customers about these benefits. The lack of knowledge about second hand clothing is an opportunity barrier that makes it difficult for the consumers to be pro second hand clothing. I would argue, that the right marketing approach would enable more consumers to  shop  second  hand.  As  such,  the  barrier  rests  on  the  consumers’  ability  to  and   knowledge of shopping second hand clothing, and the consumers might

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therefore be prone to behavioral change. The consumers are most likely at the Contemplation stage, but it might be worth the effort of moving them to the Preparation, or better yet, Action & Maintenance stage of the Stages of Change model. New clothes can be almost just as cheap At department stores all over Denmark it is possible to purchase cheap clothing. Almost as cheap as you can find it in the Red Cross Stores. The argument, that second hand clothing is much cheaper than new clothes can thus be debunked, as new clothes can be found within the same price range. Families that have a very little budget for new clothes might prioritize new clothes over second hand clothes on the motto of the new being better than used clothes. However, the quality of the clothes might differ considerably, as apparel retailers like H&M and Zara sell clothes that is not meant to be worn more than ten times (Yurchisin & Johnson, 2010). In the Red Cross stores “It is decent quality clothes for little money”  (Nyvang, 2013). The barrier is one of opportunity. There is no incentive to settle for second hand clothing, when new clothes is just at cheap, thus the consumer will be at the Pre-contemplation stage of the Stages of Change model. Second hand clothing must not legitimize overconsumption An incentive to buy second hand clothes is environmental concerns. Therefore it is key, that just because it is cheap, you do not buy two items more than you would have if the clothes had been more expensive. Buying the clothes just because it is cheap is in fact a rebound effect of the pricing in the Red Cross stores. This form of guilt-free shopping is endangering the sustainability aspect of wearing second hand clothes. Every Dane consumes 16 kg of clothes every year (Deloitte, 2013). That is 35% above world average and the highest in the Nordic region. 16 kg. is equivalent to 16 pairs of jeans or 64 t-shirts. Production of 16 pairs of jeans requires: 58.000 liters of water, 48 kg of chemicals, 6400 MJ of energy, and 208 m2 harvested land (Deloitte, 2013). And even though the garment has been designed to have a use capacity of 200 daily wears, it is only used around 10-20

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times by the end consumer (Ibid). The rebound effect of consuming more clothes is thus a barrier to upholding the sustainability and recyclability of second hand clothes. The subject has been contested publicly as well, as H&M rewards customers that donate their used clothes with a voucher for 15 pct. discount on the next purchase. The initiative is criticized for encouraging increased consumption and undermining the sustainability of clothes recycling rather than supporting it. Thus, it is important for the Red Cross to keep in mind, that increased sales does not automatically result in a more sustainable attitude towards second hand clothes. Whether that is a goal for the Red Cross in itself is not defined, but is at least a spinoff of the work in the recycling industry. Consumers that tend to over-shop are in the Action & Maintenance stage in the Stages of Change, as they do already engage in the desired behavior. The consumers’   habitual   behavior   is   considered   a   barrier,   as   the   ability   to   abstain   from over-consumption is hard to suppress. Structural barriers in retrospect As mentioned, the structural barriers are often very hard to fight. The fact that new clothes are just as cheap, but not as good quality as most second hand clothes might be true. However, starting an actual smear campaign against Føtex, H&M or other low-prices clothing retailers would be a bad idea, and campaigning good quality alone is not weighed to be very effective. The perception of time spent while looking for second hand bargains is also hard to adjust. The treasure hunt through the stores to find a specific item is a condition of shopping cheap second hand clothes. However, the Red Cross might be able to remedy the perception of time spent in the store, with a more successful visit, and this is subject to further examination for the marketing strategy. Lack of knowledge about second hand clothes has been a long-fought battle for the Red Cross. Yet another informative campaign with clothes tags that inform the buyer of the difference the amount does in the aid programs and the like does not ensure that people will act on it. That way it is hard to stand out from other NGOs and their relief programs.

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Lastly, the danger of legitimizing overconsumption as buying second hand clothes as a form of guilt-free shopping is addressed, as the rebound effect of doing good for society and the environment as a whole might not be as good for the environment after all. Sum up To sum up, the analysis of the 14 listed barriers allow me to conclude the following; Firstly, the age of the volunteers is currently limiting the Red Cross stores sales, as they do not know how to attract a younger customer segment. Secondly, shopping second hand clothes is still considered a taboo for some. Thirdly, the interviewees make an active effort among their peers to look a certain way. Second hand clothing does not help them meet the requirements for the wardrobe, as the right brand quite possibly is not in stock. Fourthly, that the shop appearance, concerning both the window displays and the in store environment does not help fashion-doubting customers to mix the old with the new, on the contrary. And finally, that environmental concerns do not translate into changes in clothing shopping patterns, which might not be that environmental friendly after all, as cheap prices could end up having a rebound effect on the goals intended. This allows me to conclude the investigation of existing barriers and enable me to answer the sub-question the identifying barriers inhibiting consumers to shop second hand clothes. Next step is singling out which barriers to target. Singling out two to three barriers of interest will ensure the most effective social marketing strategy. Not pushing on too many buttons at the same time makes the desired behavioral change more measurable as well.

3.1.7 Selection of barriers of interest According to habit and attitude research, the key to changing habitual behavior is to create conditions that, for some reason or another, make the automatic execution of the habit impossible or at least unattractive  […]  which   give individuals sufficient motivation and ability to make a deliberate choice. (Thøgersen, 2009)335

The selection of the targeted barriers is based on the prior analysis of the specific barriers as well as the probability of overcoming it, in accordance with Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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its perceived position in The Stages of Change model as well as the problem area specification on the MOAB model. Barrier

MOAB

Stage of Change

Social Marketing

Crammed stores

Motivation/ Attitude

Preparation

Window display

Ability/ Knowledge

Preparation

Shopping environment

Motivation/ Attitude

Pre-contemplation

Contemplation

It is a taboo

Opportunity Motivation/ Norms

It is for the poor

Ability

Contemplation

Creating awareness Awareness Opinion leaders Modeling ideal behavior

It smells

Opportunity

Contemplation

Awareness

Motivation/ Norms

Pre- contemplation

Opportunity

Contemplation

Ability

Preparation

Creating awareness Opinion leaders Creating awareness Opinion leaders Modeling ideal Communication

Structural New clothes just as cheap Not legitimize overconsumption

Opportunity Ability/Habit

Pre-contemplation Action & Maintenance

Awareness Modeling ideal Communication

Lack of knowledge

Opportunity

Contemplation

Time consuming

Ability/ Resources

Preparation

Awareness Model ideal Convenience

Shop appearance

Perceptions It is seen as dressing up

Self-perception Clothes do not represent me Do not like the assortment Environmental concern does not translate

Pre-contemplation

Convenience Opinion leaders Modeling ideal Social diffusion Incentives Structural change

The identified barriers’  connection to MOAB and Stages of Change and the proposed social marketing tools.

The model illustrates the coherence of the three theories and their applied logic in the thesis, to create an overview of the connecting barriers and tools to overcome them.  Below  is  an  overview  of  the  barriers’  presence  on  the  Stages  of  Change. Precontemplation Shopping environment Its a taboo Clothes dont represent me New clothes as cheap

Contemplation For the poor Smell Dressing up I dont like the clothes Lack of knowledge

Preparation Messy stores Window display Environmental concerns do not teranslate Time consuming

Action & maintanence Must not legitimize overconsumption

The identified barriers on the Stages of Change continuum

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Based on the prior analysis the following three barriers are selected to form the basis of the construction of the Social Marketing Strategy for the Red Cross. The three below are chosen, because they are identified as the most impactful and probable creating actual behavioral change. The decisional balance of the consumer weighing pros and cons is identified as being in favor of a behavior change, as the consumers in the Preparation stage are ready for the change. Barriers Shop appearance Shop appearance Time consuming

Action advocated Making the window displays more appealing Fashion advice from others rather than the aging volunteers Singling out fashion clothes in the stores

Making the window display more appealing to the customers is vital to the perceived attractiveness of the stores. Battling this however, will mean changing the way the entire Second Hand organization work, as the individual stores have a high level of autonomy in their work. It is estimated however, that it will be resources well spent, as the current window display is unattractive. Not being able to get fashion advice from the volunteers was identified as a barrier, presumably most noticeable to fashion-seekers rather than to fashionleaders. With an average age of the volunteers of +60, fashion-doubting consumers do not find it helpful to approach the volunteers for fashion advice. A root-and-branch change of employing a younger volunteer group is a long process. However, battling the challenge might be possible, if younger volunteers are incorporated into the solution. The time consumed while shopping is perceived very individually. Not leaving the store with a success experience of finding something you wanted can influence both our perception of time spent and our opinion about the store in general. Singling out clothes that appeal to the younger segments, saving the “hassle”  of  going  through  it  all,  might  be  a  way  of  ensuring  the  consumers  feeling   that they have not used unnecessary time, while also increasing the possibility of a success experience. The consumers that identified the barriers of the stores being too messy and the window display not being attractive are at the Contemplation or Preparation stage of the Stages of Change model. The consumers need to be Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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drawn to the stores through the window at a much higher rate than the present. The consumers that regarded second hand shopping as too time demanding are in the preparation stage of the Stages of Change, as they are in fact willing to shop their, but does not because of disappointing experiences with the output. With regards to the MOAB model, it is in fact a matter of all three branches; motivation, ability, and opportunity, that inhibit consumers from visiting the stores. Andreasen (Andreasen, 2002) argue that barriers of motivation and opportunity are best overcome creating awareness and promoting higher benefits – in this case finding some unique clothes. Further he identifies, that treating ability barriers should include providing modeling of the ideal behavior. After the identification of the three target barriers, it is necessary to analyze which benefits are worth deriving from in the social marketing strategy.

3.2 Benefits As mentioned previously, uncovering barriers and benefits involves the four steps of, firstly, reviewing relevant articles and reports. Secondly, carrying out observations of people engaging in the behavior you wish to promote, as well as the behavior you wish to dissuade people from participating in. Thirdly, conducting interviews to explore in-depth attitudes. Fourthly, building the information obtained from the interviews, conducting a survey with a random sample of your target audience (McKenzie-Mohr, 2006). The latter was however not carried out, as the interviews were used to gain insights into the consumer attitudes on second shopping, rather then testing hypotheses. To make behavioral change as likely as possible, you need to make the change as easy as possible and more rewarding to do it than not to (Work Group for Community Health and Development, 2013). Normally you can work with several different parameters to increase the likelihood of behavioral change. Superior Exchange of offering the best deal for the price, increasing benefits, and decreasing costs and competitive alternatives, Socially Desirable of increasing the likelihood of people changing their behavior due to peer influence and social pressure, and Easily Done when encouraging people with relevant skills to make

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particular changes (ibid). In this case, the price incentive is already exploited and the most impact will be accomplished through an investigation of the desired behavior in order to extract the transferable benefits to the social marketing strategy for the Red Cross. To identify the benefits of visiting a second hand store, the 112 intercept interviews will be analyzed, as well as my observations of in-store behavior will be outlined. In total, I have identified seven benefits of the desired behavior. The seven identified benefits of visiting a Red Cross store is divided into two categories, hedonic and altruistic behavior, in order to identify the differences in shopping motives

3.2.1 Hedonic behavior Scarpi’s  (Scarpi, 2005)34  definition  of  hedonic  behavior  states  that  “hedonism  is   related to fun and playfulness rather than to task completion, and reflects the experiential side of shopping, comprising pleasure, curiosity, fantasy, escapism and   fun”.   Further, Solomon et al. (Solomon et al., 2010) argues that sensory inputs also determine, how we interpret and respond to a product. In this section, the hedonic motivation of the consumers in the Red Cross second hand stores will be analyzed, in order to identify possible usage of the benefits in the social marketing campaign. A total of five benefits are identified from reviewing articles, reports and online fora, and observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores. The five identified benefits regarding hedonic behavior are Hedonic behaviors The items for sale are all unique It is exiting It is cheap Impulse  buying  for  people  in  the  customer’s  social  circle It is often really good quality

The items for sale are all unique “The   behavior  of   fashion   consumption   in   its   essence   is   to   satisfy   a   consumer’s   need   to display his social status and uniqueness”(Ma et al., 2012)6. In the customer analysis 62.5 pct. of the customers between the ages of 16-30 stated, that one of the main reasons for them shopping at a second hand store was, that they

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wanted to find something unique. Second hand clothing allow them to be part of the social group that wears unique, second hand, and vintage clothes. A group that is blooming these years (Lavrsen, 2011). When marketing second hand clothing, the benefit from this behavior is, that uniqueness as a way for young people to express themselves is easily comparable with the uniqueness as the core characteristic of second hand clothing. It is thus vital, that this message is communicated. It is exciting It  is  always  exciting,  to  see  what  you  can  find  [in  a  second  hand  store]…  If  you   find the right places. It’s  a  question  of  finding  the  right  clothes  and  matching  it   correctly – perhaps redesigning it a bit. It all comes down to creativity. (Sparegrisen.dk, 2013)

For some the treasure hunt of shopping for second hand clothing is the most exciting part of shopping at all. Discovering unique items for your wardrobe, imagining how good it will look, with what is already in your wardrobe. “Fashion buyers or consumers who are willing to adopt fashion are generally characterized as adventurous, well-educated, relatively young, higher in social status and sociable” (Ma et al., 2012)6. The same applies for those young consumers that love shopping for second hand clothes. These consumers are also called opinion leaders and are characterized by their ability to spot clothes that look cool. As opposed to opinion seekers that often need to ask   for   somebody   else’s   advice   (Gwozdz et al., 2013) Compared to opinion seekers of fashion followers, the opinion leaders or fashion innovators are heavily influenced by fashion media, shop more and they spend more. The excitement aspect of shopping second hand clothing is led on by hedonic attributes, and is worth further investigation, as they work to encourage impulse buying as well. The hedonic attributes can also be used actively as a way of enhancing consumers’ motivation to process brand information from ads (Maclnnis et al., 1991). This will be further elaborated in the section on the social marketing strategy. Besides the experience of going on a treasure hunt, the attributes are e.g. visual merchandizing, informative signage within the store, arousal induced by music and aroma results in increased pleasure levels

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increasing the satisfaction level of the shopping experience (Gwozdz et al., 2013). Recent   research   in   the   domain   straddling   retail   store   environment   […]   and   consumer behavior finds that store environment is positively related to store trust and leads to more positive evaluations of merchandise. A store perceived high on hedonic attributes provided excitement to shoppers. (Mohan, Sivakumaran, & Sharma, 2013)1712

The excitement of going on a treasure hunt could be exploited in a marketing perspective to increase traffic in the stores. Using the advantages of alreadypresent fashion leaders to help the fashion seekers, it will enable overcoming the barrier of not being able to ask the volunteering personnel for fashion advice. The already-existing fashion leaders referred to are young customers that already shop at the Red Cross store. It is cheap Second hand clothes is a lot cheaper than buying the same clothes from brand new. Often the clothes are also cheaper than cheap new clothes. The prices of the clothes are an incentive to buying second hand, no matter if your shopping motive is to save money on the clothes, to find something unique, or decreasing the environmental impact of new clothes production. The risk of buying something that you do not end up wearing decreases, as you do not pay much to take that chance. The Red Cross stores also sell cheap knick-knacks like jewelry and   other   accessories   in   the   stores.  ”It’s   really   easy,  the   same   places   you   find  the   clothes, you can find lots of cheap accessories, jewelry, shoes, and bags”   (Sparegrisen.dk, 2013). In the customer analysis it was clear, that the prices matter the most to the young as well as the old second hand consumer. The second hand consumer comes in all ages and from all kinds of social status backgrounds, and prices does thus appeal to all the different target groups interested in buying second hand clothes. Maybe even more so to the young consumers, as they have less money while they are in school, than they will have when attaining a full-time job. It is almost common knowledge, that clothes in second hand stores are cheap. However, the wave of high-end second hand stores like Prague in Nørrebro or Greibe & Kumari, Haberdash or Ive Lina in Østerbro, that has been rising for the

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last couple of years, charge far more for the hand-picked second hand clothes. Cheap   clothes   in   the   humanitarian   relief   organizations’   stores   is   thus   also   cheaper than other stores, where fashion seekers might be more likely to shop, as the hand-picked items give the shoppers a sense of security. The Red Cross could therefore benefit from highlighting the fact that they too have high-end or quality clothes in the stores as well, though more hidden than in other stores.

Impulse  buying  for  people  in  the  customer’s  social  circle Because the clothes in the Red Cross stores is so cheap, people do not hesitate to buy a few things more, than they had planned. Where for example Mohan, Sivakumaran  &  Sharma’s  (Mohan et al., 2013) research on store environment on impulse buying behavior treated the four store environment characteristics; lighting, music, layout and employees as determinant for positive and negative affect on shopping behavior, the impulse buys in the Red Cross store are more a matter   of   low   prices.   “I mean, the risk of buying something that they   don’t   like,   isn’t  that  big,  when  the  items  don’t  cost  more  than  they  do…  I  like  buying  things  for   people in my social circle here, and I do it quite often”  (Nyvang,  2013).  None  of  the   112 interviewed customers mentioned any of the four identified store environment characteristics as having an impact on their impulse shopping. Taking advantage of the fact that consumers are more inclined to buy something for their social circle in a second hand store, than in any other store, the Red Cross could perhaps sell more clothes and generate higher revenue. This, however, will presumably not have any or only very limited effect in terms of getting more people to visit the store. It is often really good quality According to Deloitte, 80 pct. of the clothes that Danes discard, have about 75 pct. of its life span/life expectancy left (Clausen, 2013). “Used clothes has rarely been  worn  before  handed  in.  We  [Danes]  don’t  wear   out   our   clothes,  far  from  it”   (Spare-grisen.dk, 2013). The clothes is often really good quality and is far from worn out. Thus, consumers get better quality clothes buying cheap second hand clothes, than buying cheap new clothes.

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The argument of getting better-quality clothes for little money compared to fast-fashion consumption of cheap clothes might not be the best when targeting young consumers. Firstly, 75 pct. of the young consumers state that price is the most important parameter, when shopping for second hand clothes. Price   will   therefore   most   likely   trump   quality.   Secondly,   “our garments has by design a use capacity of 200 daily wears, but it is only used around 10-20 times by the end consumer”  (Deloitte,  2013).  Young  people  are  thus  more  inclined to buy new clothes much sooner than the quality clothes would last for anyway. The end-consumer of second hand clothes will undoubtedly be able to buy cheap quality clothes at the Red Cross store, it is however not a benefit that is worth promoting to young consumers.

Hedonic behavior in retrospect Hedonic shopping of comprising pleasure, curiosity, fantasy, escapism and fun is also apparent when young second hand shoppers visit the Red Cross stores. After analyzing the five identified hedonic benefits, three of the benefits that also support pleasure, curiosity and fun were singled out; the clothes are unique and cheap and the shopping experience is exciting. These three benefits are also those of the five that could have a positive effect on store visits if included in the social marketing strategy. The advantages are firstly, that the prices of the high-end clothes are cheaper than the high-end clothes in high-end second hand stores. Secondly, second hand clothes in the Red Cross stores are unique and support the trend of wearing more unique and vintage clothes. Finally, the exciting shopping experience of looking to find something unique is also a parameter worth further investigation.

3.2.2 Altruistic behavior Defining altruism has been a long contested problem. August Comte first used the   term   and   argued   that   “some social behavior was unselfishly motivated to benefit others”,  and  many  authors  agree  to  the  formulation  that  “helping behavior voluntarily benefits another without the expectation of reward”.   (Powers & Hopkins, 2008)109. In this section, the altruistic motivation of the consumers in the Red Cross second hand stores will be analyzed. Two altruistic benefits are Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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identified from reviewing articles, reports and online fora, and observing customers in The Red Cross second hand stores. The two identified benefits regarding hedonic behavior are Altruistic behavior It is good for the environment I am supporting a good cause

It is good for the environment There is no doubt, that consumer values plays an integral part, when consumers choose to shop at the Red Cross stores, and that ethics is one of the dominant parameters. Besides an ethical reason for wearing second hand clothes, it was identified in the customer analysis that aesthetics is in play, when shopping at the Red Cross stores. As argued by Solomon et al, the consumer value called conscientious consumerism speaks to people, that worry about the environment and value the concept of second hand items (2010). In the customer analysis, 30 pct. of the customers aged 16-30 deemed environmental concerns as a reason for them shopping second hand clothes. However, it came in fourth after saving money (72 pct.), finding something unique (56 pct.), and supporting a good cause (39 pct.). The 30 pct. that experience it as a factor to buying second hand clothes are thus far from superseding the consumers that buy the clothes because of aesthetics. However, the 30 pct. are customers of the future – demanding more sustainable fashion (Deloitte, 2013). The consumers that value the fact, that second hand clothes is good for the environment. Futher, well renowned fashion expects depicts, that sustainable fashion could be forced forward, if consumers asked more actively for it, making it a priority when they shop. Even though the Red Cross carries fashion brands in the stores, the Red Cross will however probably not be the leading player in that fight. The tendency is   already   showing,   and   once   it   is   a   more   active   part   of   the   Danish   consumers’   life style choice, the Red Cross would easily be able to market the clothes more as sustainable. For now however, it is my recommendation to look elsewhere for powerful and feasible market strategies.

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I am supporting a good cause It can be argued, that altruistically motivated consumers are more inclined to shop at the Red Cross stores, because of the good cause as well as a lifestyle choice of sustainability, but, as the customer survey proved, the average consumer does not list environmental issues as a main reason for shopping there. Further, it was evident, that it is mainly the older part of the customers that shop there to support the good cause. 31 pct of the 16-29 year old customers identified it as important, compared to 57 pct. of the customers over 65. The customer analysis also identified, that men care most about the environment and women care most for about the good cause. Customer values like ethics and sustainability are a contributing factor to the customers visiting the stores, but it is the aesthetic value of finding a unique piece of clothing and a question of financials, that drive them to buy their clothes there. Therefore The Red Cross should also think about, whether big national campaigns should always revolve around the good cause. When directly asked, the customers say, that they do not really miss any information about Red Cross activities, what the profits go to, or what environmental gains second hand clothing has. Almost 80 pct. of the respondents do not miss anything from the Red Cross stores. I would therefore argue, that the Red Cross does not need to put as much emphasis on the good cause in the future, as there has done. The result of the customer survey could however also be a result of The Red Cross always proving its value through the existing campaigns. Thus, the Red Cross has a strong enough brand to use the campaigns to focus more on a younger part of the customers, as the brand might render some of the national aid campaigns superfluous, especially among young people. Altruistic behavior in retrospect The analysis of the two altruistically motivated benefits concluded, that neither of the two will have the desired effect in a social marketing campaign targeting young consumers. Doing something good for the environment and supporting a good cause are both very positive contributing factors to buying second hand clothes at the Red Cross stores, but respondents only ranked it fourth, when asked to its importance to their shopping behavior.

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3.2.3 Selection of benefits of interest To ensure the most successful social marketing strategy as possible, the identified benefits should be incorporated in the strategy as well the targeted barriers. The most probable benefits to profit from are the three hedonic benefits stated earlier; the clothes are unique and cheap and the shopping experience is exciting. The three are regarded as the most effective to generating more young consumers traffic in the stores, and the marketing strategy will have a higher level of penetration, if taken into consideration. Benefits Shopping for second hand clothes is exiting The second hand clothes is all unique Second hand clothes is cheap

3.3 Determining impact and probability of engagement After the identification of both barriers and benefits it is necessary to treat the matter of the impact on and probability of engagement from the target audience. Further, by using the Self-determination Theory, it is assessed how intrinsic and extrinsic motivation can be used to boost the probability of the target group altering its behavior. Targeted Barriers

Targeted Benefits

Window display Tidying up the stores Time consuming

Shopping for second hand clothes is exiting The second hand clothes is all unique Second hand clothes is cheap

The targeted barriers and benefits are listed above and illustrate the basis of the social marketing strategy. Next, the targeted barriers will be treated according to their placement on the Stages of Change Model. Chosen barrier Window display

MOAB Ability/knowledge

Stages of Change Preparation

Crammed stores

Opportunity

Preparation

Time consuming

Ability/resources

Preparation

SM tools Model Ideal Social diffusion Convenience and communication Model Ideal Convenience

The Stages of Change model (annex 4) illustrates the four stages; Precontemplation, Contemplation, Preparation and Action & Maintenance and their

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connection to each other. Based on the analysis it is assessed, that all three targeted barriers are, to a greater or lessor extent, at the Preparation stage in the Stages of Change model, as removing the barriers could move the consumers towards the Action & Maintenance stage, increasing their desire to take action and visit a second hand stores. The impact of targeting the three barriers would thus be a shift towards the actual Action & Maintenance stage. The chosen marketing tools determine the probability of engagement from the target group. It is thus vital to use the right tools and at the right time, in order for people to interpret them and change behavior. As  Ajzen’s  theory  of   Planned Behavior (Ajzen, 1991) explains,   “if people evaluate the suggested behavior as positive (attitude), and if they think their significant others want them to perform the behavior (subjective norm), this results in a higher intention (motivations) and they are more likely to do so”.  The  perceived  behavioral control and circumstantial limitations can however work as a barrier to action. As mentioned, no previous attempt has been made to alter the behavior of non-second hand shoppers. The social marketing tools selected for the social marketing strategy is thus based on literature reviews and case studies of community based social marketing programs. Social diffusion is chosen to target the window display barrier, as the barrier is identified, according to the MOAB model, as lack of ability to interpret the current window displays, more specifically the lack of knowledge on how to. Using social diffusion, such as making the desired behavior observable to the target group, as well as visiting the stores due to an implementation intention, will enable the target group to envision how complex the behavior is and how compatible it is with their values. Convenience is vital to the success of the marketing strategy and will be implemented targeting two barriers at once; perception of time consumption and the tidiness of the stores. “As powerful as the [social marketing] tools are, they will be ineffective if the behavior is inconvenient. If the behavior is unpleasant or time-consuming, for example, no matter how well you address internal barriers your community-based social marketing strategy will be unsuccessful”(McKenzieMohr, 2013)121.

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The perception of time used in the store should be targeted using convenience because the convenience of finding something you like soon after entering the store generates a higher feeling of successful shopping, compared to spending unnecessary time not finding anything. Using convenience to overcome the barrier of the stores being messy and crammed could be done by further segmenting the clothes. This is only possible however, if younger volunteers are involved. The communication of creating effective messages is off course also key. Using captivating language, framing the message, refraining from the use of coercive language and making the message specific and memorable are all part of the communication strategy in the marketing campaign.

3.4 The Social Marketing Strategy The creation of the Red Cross social marketing strategy is based on the in-depth analysis of the barriers and benefits to second hand shopping. The analysis have thus functioned as a tool to identify the most penetrable and influential barriers, while also identifying the personal benefits that is experienced from second hand shopping. In order to make the most successful marketing strategy it is important to keep in mind the consumers sense of autonomy and implementation intentions. Taking   an   offset   in   that,   Deci   &   Ryan’s   Theory   of   Self-determination and Gollwitzer  &  Heckhausen’s  Theory  of  Implementation  intention  will  be  included   in the development of the social marketing strategy, in order to specify what course of action should be taken. The  social  marketing  strategy  is  based  on  the  groundwork  of  the  4P’s  of   the Social Marketing Mix. However, the marketing strategy will also take into consideration   the   7C’s  model   first  devised   by  Shizumu.   Thus, I have selected the following parameters to be included in the final social marketing strategy. Trough the use of social marketing tools, the strategy will take an offset in the target barriers and benefits, while also keeping possible dangers in mind.

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Targeted Barriers

Targeted Benefits

Window display Tiding up the stores Time consuming

Shopping for second hand is exciting The second hand clothes is all unique Second hand clothes is cheap

Dangers

Tools

Confirming prejudice Legitimizing over-consumption

Convenience Social diffusion Communication

3.4.1 The Target Audience To determine the impact on the chosen barriers it is necessary to determine the level of penetration, as well as the impact of a behavioral change in young consumers. The young consumers naturally differ from other consumers on a lot of areas. Just as youth can lead the way towards more sustainable consumption, they are also heavily influenced by peers, block leaders, and campaigns (Fien et al., 2008). At the same time “many advertisers, who are trying to craft messages to adolescents and young adults, are encountering problems, because this age group, having  grown  up  in  a  “marketing  society”,   tends  to  be  skeptical  about   attempts  to   persuade them to buy things”(Solomon et al., 2010)281. The campaign will thus have to be a bit more original than a traditional marketing campaign. Young people are very active on the social media and interact with companies and brands more than ever before, and this aspect should also be included in the social marketing strategy. Young people are highly literate in new media, which may, to some degree, offset the influence of their immersion in consumer culture. They have daily exposure to a wide range of mass media that plays an important role in promoting and reinforcing consumer values. However, rather than being passive recipients of media culture, young people demonstrate high levels of

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media literacy and routinely reconstruct media messages. (Fien et al., 2008)58

3.4.2 The Product The product in the social marketing mix is the behavioral change offered. Thus, selling the idea of wearing second hand clothes, and visiting Red Cross stores to purchase just that, is the product of the marketing strategy. The Red Cross needs to take advantage of the present day excitement about second hand clothes. Second hand clothing has never been more ‘in’, than it is right now and attracting young consumers, that want to pursue current trends, is thus vital for a successful marketing strategy. Currently fashion followers find it difficult to identify themselves with the clothes in the stores, as fashionable and unfashionable are mixed in the stores. Further, fashion-follow consumers might not like the thought of wearing second hand clothes, because the stores seem dirty and crammed, and are badly arranged and completely confusing. As a result, they stay away. They are not attracted to the stores from the streets, as the window displays does not emit fashion in any way. Selling the Red Cross second hand stores as a brand of fashion, going hand in hand with the secondhand trend, is fairly difficult, when the target group is hesitant to visit the shop at all. Finally, it is important that the Red Cross communicate, that the clothes in the stores are all unique compelling the argument of individualization and self-presentation that is so popular today. That way, consumers might be keener to change behavior. Fashion innovators are an important tool, when operating with young consumers, as they heavily influence them.

3.4.3 The Price The price of the adoption of behavioral change and overcoming barriers to visiting a Red Cross stores are virtually non-existing. Financially, buying second hand clothes only costs a margin of what new fashionable clothes cost. Unfortunately, the perception of time used in the stores with no reassurance of finding anything you like, is perceived as costly. Remedying the perception of time spent in the stores would thus overcome the barrier to an extent, that the consumer might consider visiting the stores more often. As one successful

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experience might foster the wish to visit the stores once again, it is important that the Red Cross exploits the benefit of consumers feeling excited, when shopping there. This could be done by dividing the stores up into sections that would include identification of in-fashion clothing from everything else. Identifying item that would go well with young consumers, as fashion-seekers would easier find what they are looking for, saving time from discovering it themselves. Increasing the level of convenience could be a helping factor to overcoming the barrier of time perception. This however, would require younger volunteers to practice the selection of the clothes.

3.4.5 The Place The place in social marketing refers to the channels by which behavioral change is promoted. Dealing with young consumers it is necessary to use different channels of communication like social media as well as traditional media. As mentioned, young consumers are highly literate on the new media and interaction between consumers and companies are ever increasing through new media. Social media like Facebook and Instagram has been used successfully in Red Cross marketing before, and it is thus advised to continue that line of marketing. Contests or challenges on Facebook and Instagram, like my previous Red Cross marketing campaign 1 of treasure hunting in the stores using Facebook-clues, will increase young consumer attention and interaction. Inviting people into the stores using both new and traditional media to communicate the barriers reduction does not do the trick alone, but will demand some kind of implementation intention. Simply informing them of the clothes in the stores and the reasonable pricing will undoubtedly influence very few consumers. Telling them when and where to visit has more power of penetration. Providing implementation intention through the selected channels is thus vital to the consumers taking action.

3.4.6 Promotion Promotion in the social marketing mix is means by which behavioral change is promoted to target audience. Promoting behavioral change to the consumers is 1

At my internship, I was in charge of a marketing campaign targeting young consumers

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best achieved by appealing to a reduction of the different barriers. According to MacInnis et al. (Maclnnis et al., 1991), the conceptual framework of enhancing consumer motivation, opportunity and ability to process brand information from ads, it is important to target communication on the different barriers. The barrier regarding the window display is a knowledge barrier as well as one of motivation, and will thus demand focus on executional cues such as example-based learning and copy-ready solutions for the fashion-seekers that do not feel attracted by the current window displays. Further, the barrier is one of motivation. By appealing to intrinsic hedonic needs, the Red Cross might overcome the barrier. Using language that is autonomy supportive, conveying respect for the target individuals by acknowledging their general perspectives and providing meaningful options and autonomous choice are some of the autonomy-supportive rationales that are credible and consistent with people´s personal values. With the satisfaction of basic psychological needs they are likely to   be   internalized   most   easily.   “Both intrinsic message framing and autonomysupportive communication styles are effective means for promoting actions and new choices over the long run” (Ryan & Deci, 2000)111. Communication of second hand shopping in the Red Cross stores being both exiting and the clothes being unique as well as cheap will increase the level of intrinsic hedonic motivation (Maclnnis et al., 1991) The barrier of second hand shopping being too time consuming demands focus on some of the same solutions. Helping consumers identify fashionable clothes, saving them both time and the predicament of being insecure of the wearability of the selected items, will ensure more successful experiences among young consumers. Finally, the barrier of the stores being messy and crammed is mostly a structural barrier that needs work internally in the Red Cross. Nonetheless, the communication revolving around messy and crammed stores needs to address the opportunity-barrier   as   identified   in   the   barriers   section.   “Consumers do not perceive a store in piecemeal fashion and it is the total configuration of cues, the Gestalt  of  consumers’  perceptions  of  stores,  that  influences  their  responses”(Mohan et al., 2013)1713. Once the Red Cross eg. choses to use singling-out of fashionable clothes, making the stores more manageable and well arranged, it is

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thus important to enhance gestalt processing, so the customer will experience the initiative as a positive effect. “The greater the use of brand-related executional cues that are suitable for gestalt processing, the greater consumers' opportunity to process brand information” (Maclnnis et al., 1991)39. Further, the use of opinion leaders as front-runners will enhance the probability of capturing the attention of fashion-seekers as well.

3.4.7 Process The process of the social marketing mix is a strategy of how it will be applied. The marketing strategy should be focused on consumer involvement in the sense, that already present fashion-innovators in the Red Cross stores and interaction on social media should be used. Taking advantage of fashioninnovators to identify fashionable clothes to ease the shopping experience as well as function as guidance on whether the clothes are cool or not will increase the success experience of the fashion-following second hand-hesitant consumers. Further, implementation intentions should be enacted, as it will increase the probability of new consumers that do not visit the Red Cross stores on a regular basis, to be more inclined to do so. This will in turn enable more long-term commitment to the stores.

3.4.8 Organization and Competition The goal of the marketing strategy is to increase visits in the Red Cross stores. Raising awareness of second hand clothes and second hand clothing stores will undeniably also increase incentives to visit other second hand stores. To ensure that consumers visit the Red Cross stores instead of other second hand stores, the consumers will need an incentive to do so. Providing that incentive will in turn ensure more people visiting the Red Cross stores.

3.4.9 Dangers Inviting reluctant consumers into the stores also increases the risk of them getting their prejudices confirmed. Therefore it is critical, that the shop appearance of the Red Cross stores is taken care of before inviting new customers in, giving them the most optimal possibility of a successful shopping Cand. Ling. Merc., Intercultural Market Studies

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experience. Further, the risk of legitimizing over-consumption dues to cheap prices and the knowledge of it being second hand also needs to be taken into account. This will be further elaborated in the discussion.

3.4.10 Recommendations The recommendations for the Red Cross include six touch points, appealing to intrinsic hedonic needs using convenience, social diffusion, and communication as the primary social marketing tools. Recommendations 1. “Sell”  the  stores  through  the  window  display, eg. educating volunteers in what works and what does not, seen from the consumers point of view. 2. Use social diffusion. Single out clothes that are fashionable, ensuring that the impression of the stores is not unmanageable, and help fashionseekers by providing implicit fashion guidance, using already present fashion innovators. Taking advantage of the role of reference groups and opinion leaders. 3. Communicate the benefits of second hand shopping of the clothes being unique and cheap, and the shopping experience being exiting, through message framing and captivating language. 4. Use new media intensively in the marketing campaign as the target group is heavily present. Involvement in and interaction with the target audience on the new media is thus advised. 5. Exploit tendencies of second hand being fashionable, eg. by making the clothes seem more fashionable and assessable. 6. Use implementation intentions to attract consumers to the Red Cross stores. The recommendations should be implemented into a homogenous marketing campaign streamlining the overall goal of arousing young consumers interest. Creating implementation intention, communicating via social media, and organizing the stores by singling out young fashion and thus modeling ideal behavior is recommended to target young consumers. The basis for the marketing strategy was developed in 2013. Thus, the implementation of the marketing strategy has already been carried out, and the Red   Cross’   2014   spring   marketing   campaign   is   a   result   of   the   recommendations. The marketing campaign with a full-scale implementation was rolled out May 2014.

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Chapter 4: Discussion and conclusion In chapter 4, a discussion and a conlusion to the thesis is treated. The rejection of existing barriers and benefits will be discussed as well as the sustainability of the social marketing strategy. Further, the limitations of the thesis is treated, before the concluding thoughts and future implications are discussed.

4. 1 Discussion In the following, I will discuss the findings from the empirical data and the rejections that were made in the analysis of the empirical data, rather than the selected barriers, outlined in the marketing strategy. The discussion will enable me to conclude the thesis, based on the research questions formulated in the beginning of the paper. The structure of the discussion will be similar to that of the thesis, treating first barriers, then benefits and finally discussing future implications of the Red Cross marketing campaigns.

4.1.1 The rejection of barriers The rejection of barriers was a result of scrutiny of the 14 identified barriers. Taking into account the kinds of barrier in question, the probability of its implementation and the communication needed to motivate the consumers to change behavior, weighing of resources and outcome as well. The selection of barriers resulted in a selection of three barriers from the preparation stage for the marketing strategy, as they were identified as the most probable to overcome. However, the barriers in the Pre-contemplation stage and the Action & Maintenance stage were automatically rejected, as consumers were either too set in their ways to change behavior or already engaging in it. Taking a closer look at an actual barrier in Action & Maintenance stage, that second hand shopping must not legitimizing overconsumption, several issues raise questions about the sustainability of the marketing strategy. An incentive to recycle clothes is because of environmental concerns. Therefore it is key, that even though the clothes is cheap, you do not buy more than you would have, if the clothes had been more expensive. This kind of overconsumption of buying more than you need, because it is e.g. cheap, is known as guilt-free

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shopping (Peloza, White, & Shang, 2013). The consumer does not take into consideration, that it would be a waste of resources, if the clothes ended up not being used. Guilt-free shopping is also a critic-point   of   H&M’s   campaign   of   handing in old clothes and getting a DKK 50 voucher for the next H&M purchase. If increasing the number of customers in the Red Cross stores resulted in an increase in guilt-free shopping, it would actually be a rebound effect of more people buying second hand clothes(Peloza et al., 2013). Thus it is important for the Red Cross to keep in mind, that marketing e.g. second hand clothes as a cheap alternative, the Red Cross would simultaneously risk the rebound effect of people consuming more clothes. The barrier of environmental concerns not translating into changes in shopping patterns is a further testament to the fact, that consumers do not prioritize environmental concerns or sustainability, when shopping(Gwozdz et al., 2013). Further, studies show, that market shares of products positioned using ethical attributes are relatively small, and that consumer support is not uniformly positive (Peloza et al., 2013). The   Red   Cross’ marketing strategy will thus have to restrain from focusing on low prices and environmental-friendly clothing. Whereas it in marketing of commercial products is good to market performance and prices, this would not benefit the Red Cross. Finally, the environmental benefits of second hand clothes are not the most optimal way of marketing second hand clothes, just yet. Current research proposes that when self-accountability is heightened, consumers will be more likely to choose products positioned on the basis of their ethical attributes than products positioned on the basis of selfbenefit attributes.(Peloza et al., 2013)104 If the Red Cross, in the long run, wishes to market the clothes as sustainable, it is thus important to work on heightening consumers’ self-accountability with regards to second hand shopping. Here, the Red Cross could learn from the cosmetic industry, where green and sustainable products have gained market shares(Deloitte, 2013).

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4.1.2 The rejection of benefits Selecting and rejecting benefits from the consumers that already engage in the desired behavior resulted in a rejection of the two behaviors that were identified as altruistically motivated, and the hedonic barrier of customers impulse shopping for their social circle. In line with the discussion above, the three rejected benefits touch the surface of a discussion of why you buy second hand clothes at all. Danes might be good at recycling clothes, but it is only the handing in part they are good at. 80 pct. of Danes that hand in used clothes for second hand stores only buy brand new clothes themselves(Henriksen, February 11, 2010). In that light, getting more people to buy second hand clothes is hard, as most consumers have taken an active choice to hand in the clothes, and one not to buy anything from there. It is thus important for the Red Cross to communicate the benefits of second hand shopping in continuation to the suggested marketing campaign of overcoming barriers. There is no doubt, that the Red Cross has a very strong brand in the minds of the consumers. When directly asked, the customers say, that they do not really miss any information about Red Cross activities or what environmental gains second hand clothing has. Almost 80 pct. of the customers do not miss anything from the Red Cross stores (Nyvang, 2013). The customers are very different in age, occupation and come from different areas of the country, but they all have the same reasons for shopping at the Red Cross stores, unique clothes and cheaper prices. No doubt, that the brand matters, and that that  in  itself  emanates  “doing  good  for  society”,  but  it  is  not  the  attracting  force   for the customers. I would therefore argue that the Red Cross has a strong enough brand to test focusing entirely on the fashionability of the clothes and the fact that it is exciting to treasure hunt through the stores, rather than the environmental and social benefits of second hand clothing.

4.2 Limitations Even though the results and conclusion of the thesis are valid and reliable some limitation do exist. The analysis of the existing barriers is partly based on four

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interviews with people from my social circle. The four do not want to wear second hand clothes but are by no means representative for all young people not wanting to wear second hand clothes. For future research and further development of the marketing strategy more people performing as a more representative part of the target group must be interviewed to test the findings of my qualitative research. The increase in interviewees would in turn increase the reliability of the analysis and the consequent recommendations from that. The selection of stores was made based on three criteria, to ensure interviewees being as representative of the customers as possible. A selection from other criteria or a random selection of the stores might have generated a slightly different picture of the customers in the stores. For further research, definite selection criteria should be developed. The danger of selecting more than one barrier to target and in turn also several tools to overcome them is, that it can make it harder to measure which initiative actually made a difference. Incorporating the targeting of several barriers into only a few initiatives will hopefully constitute the strongest marketing strategy possible, battling more than one barrier at a time, promoting the benefits of wearing second hand clothes. Selecting fewer touch points might make it easier to either eliminate or promote one tool over the other.

4.3 Conclusion The master thesis has investigated how barriers prevent fashion consumers from visiting the Red Cross stores and identified which benefits of second hand shopping the Red Cross stores should promote, in order to answer the four subquestions and ultimately the research question What are the barriers and benefits to wearing second hand clothes and how can The Red Cross overcome these barriers using Social Marketing to target young consumers? Who are the customers in the Red Cross stores and what are their shopping motives? What existing barriers to action inhibit young consumers to wear second hand clothes? What benefits do consumers of second hand clothes experience? Overcoming barriers and supporting benefits to second hand shopping, how does the Red Cross target the target group?

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After carrying out investigations, in depth analysis, and discussing the limitations, the following can be concluded; Firstly, the qualitative study of 112 intercept interviews revealed, that there are much more young customers in the Red Cross stores than anticipated. The age division all in all is also much wider than anticipated. The customers come from all layers of society and with different vocational backgrounds. Further, the survey identified, that 19 pct. of the customers is in fact men. As research has identified older people are more altruistically motivated and the previous Red Cross marketing campaigns have thus focused primarily on the assumption that that was what the customers wanted to hear. The customer survey identified, that the customers are not as altruistically motivated as assumed and weight the uniqueness and low prices higher than environmental concerns. Secondly, the analysis of the four qualitative interviews and literature reviews identified 14 possible barriers to shopping second hand clothes. An in depth analysis of these 14 identified barriers enable a selection of three barriers to   further   investigate.   In   the   process   the   barriers’   presence   in   the   different stages of the Stage of Change model were determined, to weigh the probability of consumers overcoming them. The three chosen barriers were the window display, crammed stores, and the perception of time consumption used in the stores. Thirdly, the analysis of the intercept interviews and literature reviews identified seven benefits of shopping second hand clothes. Three benefits were selected to be integrated in the Red Cross social marketing strategy, promoting second hand consumption. The three were; shopping for second hand clothes is exiting, the clothes are all unique and that is cheap. The benefits were subsequently, to a greater or lesser extent, included in the Red Cross social marketing strategy. The investigation of overcoming barriers and supporting benefits made way for the development of a social marketing strategy for the Red Cross to target young consumers. The recommendations for the Red Cross were to:

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“Sell”   the   stores   through   the   window   display,   eg.   educating volunteers in what works and what does not, seen from the consumers point of view. Single out clothes that are fashionable, using already present fashion innovators. Taking advantage of the role of reference groups and opinion leaders. Communicate the benefits of second hand shopping of the clothes being unique and cheap, and the shopping experience being exiting. Use new media intensively in the marketing campaign as the target group is heavily present. Exploit tendencies of second hand being fashionable, eg. by making the clothes seem more fashionable and assessable. Use implementation intentions to attract consumers to the Red Cross stores.

In conclusion, overcoming the three selected barriers and supporting the three selected benefits would in turn enable the Red Cross to target young consumers more successfully using hedonic motivation, instead of previous campaigns focusing more on altruistic shopping motivation.

4.4 Future implications using social marketing Using social marketing, with an overall social goal of getting more people to wear second hand clothing, the Red Cross can be accused of disguises the fact, that the marketing campaign is also a matter of profit, rather than just the behavior change. The ethical question of whether or not to use social marketing to promote commercial interests, when the social good is merely a spill-over of marketing second hand clothes as fashionable and in, is also worth questioning. “Social marketing is the design, implementation and control of programs seeking to increase the acceptability of a social idea or practice in a target group. Social marketing persuades individuals to alter their individual behavior in order to improve their own health and welfare”(Wymer, 2010)99. So why should the Red Cross implement social marketing, when the main objective is to increase sales ? The Red Cross cannot survive on donations, grants and volunteer help to potentially grow, but must also ensure increased revenues. Optimizing the commercial marketing with elements of social marketing could increase the likelihood of the Red Cross generating more traffic in their stores. Using social marketing to promote a general behavioral change to wear more second hand clothes is thus a tool to promote the stores, but will in turn/consequently generate  more  traffic  in  competitors’  stores  as  well.  Both  commercial  and  social   marketing are ultimately about influencing behavior, no matter if the behavior is

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consumer purchases or taking up new lifestyles, and the mix of the two marketing approaches suits the Red Cross well, as the challenges of social marketing managers are more complex than those faced in the commercial sector. The managers have to promote sales, corporate support, volunteering, individual giving and grants, and contracts from foundations and government agencies (Andreasen, 2012). As opposed to other social marketing campaigns to e.g. eat less, exercise more, or stop smoking, the Red Cross has the advantage of offering an actual product. Where many social marketing efforts promote charity giving, promote specific actions e.g. eating less, propose people to stop a certain behavior, or propose costs on target audience, they can seldom offer an actual product or service in doing so in return. The mix of commercial and social marketing would therefore suit the Red Cross well for that reason to. Further, behavioral change might be a long-term win for the social marketing campaign, where the actual impact is hard to measure. However, the Red Cross can measure short term external results of the traffic in the stores as well as the sales immediately – giving them a unique opportunity to react to the responses of the target audience. Using social marketing would therefore not compromise the measurability of the success of the campaigns. The main goal is to get more people in the stores, changing their behavior in the long run. In social marketing the target audience is guaranteed to play a major role when developing the marketing strategy, all elements revolve around the behavioral change instead of profit optimization, and the marketing approach  is   tailored  to   the  target  group,  using   the  four  P’s  to  influence attempts to move beyond promoting the benefits of the desired behavior. For future research on the area it is advised that a wider in-depth analysis is implemented. Here examples from other social marketing strategies treating the matter of behavior change could be scrutinized. E.g. information campaigns and marketing strategies getting people to wash their clothes correctly (Danish Ministry of the Environment) or not too much, like the Levis Strauss CEO advocates (Oberholtz, May, 2014). Or campaigns getting people to donate used clothes, for the fibers like H&M, Name It, and The Danish Fashion Institute are advocating (csr.dk, 2012; csr.dk, 2013; Kruse & Kabell, 2014).

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