Note-Taking Guide

Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Maryland Fire and Rescue Institute University of Maryland Steven T. Edwards

Spring 2010

Copyright© 2010 by the Maryland Fire and Rescue Institute. All rights reserved. No part of this book may by copied or reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission of the Maryland Fire and Rescue Institute.

The Maryland Fire and Rescue Institute of the University of Maryland is the State’s comprehensive training and education system for all emergency services. The Institute plans, researches, develops, and delivers quality programs to enhance the ability of emergency service providers to protect life, the environment, and property.

Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Lesson 1-1 Introduction to Technical Rope Rescue

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, describe the aspects of rope, webbing, hardware, and harnesses that are applicable to technical rope rescues to a written test accuracy of at least 70%.

RES 205-PPT-1-1.1

Overview Specific Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Requirements Rope and Webbing Review Rope and Webbing Strengths and Classifications Rescue Rope Hardware Rescue Harnesses

RES 205-PPT-1-1.2

1

Specific Personal Protective Equipment Requirements Factors to consider when determining PPE requirements – – – – – –

Terrain Weather Hazards present Type of tasks Availability of help Specific AHJ requirements

RES 205-PPT-1-1.3

Specific Personal Protective Equipment Requirements PPE – – – – – – – –

Head protection Eye protection Harnesses Hand protection Knee and elbow protection Boots Coveralls Lights

RES 205-PPT-1-1.4

Rope and Webbing Review Construction materials – Natural fibers – Synthetic materials

RES 205-PPT-1-1.5

2

Rope and Webbing Review Synthetic fibers – – – –

Provide greater strength for size Have single fibers continuous throughout the rope Withstand minor shock loading Do not rot; age more slowly

Specific types of synthetic fibers include – – – –

Nylon Polypropylene and Polyethylene (Polyolefin) Polyester Aramid RES 205-PPT-1-1.6

Rope and Webbing Review Methods of Construction – Laid rope Has twisted strands Has load-bearing fibers Untwists under load

– Braided rope – Braid-on-braid rope

RES 205-PPT-1-1.7

Rope and Webbing Review Kernmantle – Construction Kern Mantle

– Three types High-stretch (dynamic) Medium-stretch Low-stretch (static)

RES 205-PPT-1-1.8

3

Rope and Webbing Review Webbing – Used to build anchor systems, create harnesses, package and secure victims, and lash rescue components together – Flat webbing – Tubular webbing RES 205-PPT-1-1.9

Rope and Webbing Review Care and storage of software – Life safety rope is only for life safety: Lifting people – Rope inspection Inspect “pic” (50%) Inspect for exposed core Feel kern for lumps Inspect for chemical exposure RES 205-PPT-1-1.10

Rope and Webbing Review Care and storage of software – Clean rope and webbing Soak in cool water and mild soap Air dry away from sunlight and fluorescent lights

RES 205-PPT-1-1.11

4

Generic Rope History Log

RES 205-PPT-1-1.12

Rope and Webbing Review Care and storage of software – Store dry and without knots away from chemicals, gas, oil, and exhaust products – Flake into rope bag with rope ends dressed – Roll webbing and store in a clean, dry container or bag

RES 205-PPT-1-1.13

Rope and Webbing Strengths and Classifications Minimum Breaking Strength – Rope – Low-stretch Kernmantle 3/8" 4,500 lb. 7/16" 6,000 lb. 1/2" 9,000 lb. 5/8"

13,000 lb.

RES 205-PPT-1-1.14

5

Rope and Webbing Strengths and Classifications Minimum Breaking Strength – Tubular webbing 1" 2"

4,500 lb. 6,000 lb.

– Flat webbing 1"

6,000 lb.

RES 205-PPT-1-1.15

Rope and Webbing Strengths and Classifications Factors that affect strength – – – – – – – –

Water absorption Extreme temperatures Chemical contact Shock-loading Dirt, sand, or grit in the core Friction heat damage Sharp edges Age of rope

RES 205-PPT-1-1.16

Rope and Webbing Strengths and Classifications NFPA Rope Classification System – Working load based on a 15:1 safety factor – Class one-person life-safety rope Safe working load of 300 lbs. Breaking strength minimum 4,500 lb.

– Class two-person life-safety rope Safe working load of 600 lbs. Breaking strength minimum 9,000 lb.

RES 205-PPT-1-1.17

6

Rescue Rope Hardware

RES 205-PPT-1-1.18

Carabiners

RES 205-PPT-1-1.19

Descent Control Devices

Figure-8

Rack

RES 205-PPT-1-1.20

7

Ascenders

RES 205-PPT-1-1.21

Pulleys

RES 205-PPT-1-1.22

Edge Protectors Inadequate edge protection results in 90% of all rope failures

RES 205-PPT-1-1.23

8

Rope Rescue Hardware Care and maintenance of hardware – Keep clean and dry – Use dry lubricant – Inspect hardware for deformity – Inspect forged and cast hardware for damage

RES 205-PPT-1-1.24

Rescue Harnesses

Uses – – – –

Rescuer access Victim removal Fall protection Emergency self-rescue and egress RES 205-PPT-1-1.25

Rescue Harnesses NFPA Classifications – Class I: Seat-style for emergency escape or oneperson loads – Class II: Seat-style for rescue and other two-person loads

RES 205-PPT-1-1.26

9

Rescue Harnesses – NFPA Class III Harnesses Are full-body Offer inversion protection Could be one- or two-person Could be used as victim harnesses

RES 205-PPT-1-1.27

Rescue Harnesses Classifications – Site-made (Swiss seat)

RES 205-PPT-1-1.28

Rescue Harnesses Classifications – ANSI (Industrial) Harness Ratings Positioning belt Chest harness Full-body harness—Both ANSI and NFPA refer to this as a Class III Site-made harness

RES 205-PPT-1-1.29

10

Rescue Harnesses Care of harnesses – Soak like rope; don’t machine wash – Inspect and maintain hardware – Take damaged pieces out of service – Recertify damaged and repaired pieces

RES 205-PPT-1-1.30

Care of Harnesses Service life depends on manufacturer (5-10 years)

RES 205-PPT-1-1.31

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, describe the aspects of rope, webbing, hardware, and harnesses that are applicable to technical rope rescues to a written test accuracy of at least 70% .

RES 205-PPT-1-1.32

11

Review Specific Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) Requirements Rope and Webbing Review Rope and Webbing Strengths and Classifications Rescue Rope Hardware Rescue Harnesses

RES 205-PPT-1-1.33

12

Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Lesson 1-2 Safety

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, the student will be able to identify all safety precautions to be taken during a technical rope rescue incident to a written test accuracy of 70%.

RES 205-PPT-1-2.1

Overview Minimizing Risk Communication Verbal Communication Whistle Commands System Safety Factor Backing Up the Rope System System Safety Checks Types of Safety Checks RES 205-PPT-1-2.2

13

Minimizing Risk Personnel operating at a rope rescue scene always assume some risk Minimize the risk with good safety habits

RES 205-PPT-1-2.3

Communication Exchange information by – – – –

Speech Signals Writing Behavior

Without effective communication freelancing occurs

RES 205-PPT-1-2.4

Verbal Communication Face-to-face verbal communication – Simple and reliable – Nearly eliminates interference

Radio communication – Next best – Could be hit or miss depending on reception

RES 205-PPT-1-2.5

14

Verbal Communication Verbal Commands – – – – – –

Quiet On belay? Belay on On rappel? Rappel on? Lower

RES 205-PPT-1-2.6

Verbal Communication Verbal Commands – – – – – – –

Raise Slack Tension Faster Slower Stop Rope free

RES 205-PPT-1-2.7

Whistle Commands Verbal commands may not be heard A whistle system is an excellent back-up Whistle commands are governed by ASTM F1768-97 – – – – –

Stop: 1 short whistle blast Up: 2 short whistle blasts Down: 3 short whistle blasts Rope free: 4 short whistle blasts Help: Continuous blast RES 205-PPT-1-2.8

15

System Safety Factor The System Safety Factor is the ratio of load compared to strength of individual components in the system – The Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) is the minimum amount of force needed to break the component – To calculate the Safety Factor: Find MBS Calculate the load weight Divide strength of component by the load

RES 205-PPT-1-2.9

System Safety Factor The System Safety Factor – Can be calculated by competent rope rescuers at any point in the rope system – Is not specifically mandated by standards – Can be variable based on rescue situation

RES 205-PPT-1-2.10

Backing Up the Rope System Backing up the rope system ensures that – The failure of one component will not cause an entire system failure – The main and belay anchors are backed up with an additional dedicated anchor – The back up system is 1:1

RES 205-PPT-1-2.11

16

System Safety Checks Conduct a safety check and pre-tension the system prior to use – Ensures knots, rigging, and hardware are being used correctly – Allows components of rope system to be tested under an actual load

Conduct a system check each time the system is loaded

RES 205-PPT-1-2.12

System Safety Checks When conducting a safety check, confirm that: – Knots are tied correctly and dressed – Carabiners are locked and loaded properly – Pulleys are sized and reeved correctly – Anchor is adequate and backed up if needed – All systems are operable

RES 205-PPT-1-2.13

Types of Safety Checks Touch method: the inspector places his or her hands on every component to ensure nothing is overlooked The hands off test ensures built-in safety features operate when the system is unattended while the system is loaded

RES 205-PPT-1-2.14

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Types of Safety Checks Personal safety checks are conducted by individual rescuers to ensure that: – – – –

Harness is on correctly Rope system connection is correct Proper PPE is being worn Carabiners are locked and in the correct position – Descending devices are properly reeved and loaded – Rescuer is properly connected RES 205-PPT-1-2.15

Types of Safety Checks Ensure edge protection is used to prevent abrasions leading to rope failure

RES 205-PPT-1-2.16

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, the student will be able to identify all safety precautions to be taken during a technical rope rescue incident to a written test accuracy of 70%.

RES 205-PPT-1-2.17

18

Review Minimizing Risk Communication Verbal Communication Whistle Commands System Safety Factor Backing Up the Rope System System Safety Checks Types of Safety Checks RES 205-PPT-1-2.18

19

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Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Lesson 2-1 Equipment and System Components

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, the student will be able to identify all equipment used during a technical rope rescue incident to a written test accuracy of 70%.

RES 205-PPT-2-1.1

Overview Introduction Units of Measurement Flexible Systems Components Hardware

RES 205-PPT-2-1.2

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Introduction Rope rescue would be impossible without – The proper tools – Understanding how tools operate and their limitations

Rope rescue gear is classified as software or hardware

RES 205-PPT-2-1.3

Units of Measurement The Newton is used to measure force – Uses the International System of Units (SI) unit of force – Measures the amount of force required to accelerate a body with a mass of one kilogram at a rate of one meter per second squared

The meter is used to express rope length The millimeter is used to express rope diameter RES 205-PPT-2-1.4

Flexible Systems Components Ropes – Are defined by the NFPA using three classes Life safety rope Escape rope Throwlines

– Can be made of Nylon 6 or Nylon 6.6 Will stretch up to 15-20% Can be pulled, bent, knotted, and loaded without significant damage

RES 205-PPT-2-1.5

22

Flexible Systems Components Ropes made of Nylon 6 or Nylon 6.6 (continued) Can be damaged by UV radiation Can be damaged by strong alkalis Can lose strength when saturated with water

RES 205-PPT-2-1.6

Flexible Systems Components Ropes – Can be made of polyester which Is slightly stronger than nylon Has abrasion resistance similar to nylon Loses tensile strength when wet Has a higher resistance to UV radiation than nylon Has less stretch than nylon

RES 205-PPT-2-1.7

Flexible Systems Components Ropes – Are constructed in two parts The kern, which is the core The mantle, which is the protective sheath

RES 205-PPT-2-1.8

23

Flexible Systems Components Ropes are used for life safety Light use ropes – Light use ropes have a breaking strength of no less than 20kN – Minimum elongation shall not be less than 1% at 10% of the breaking strength (as defined in NFPA 1983) – Maximum elongation shall not be more than 10% at 10% of the breaking strength (as defined in NFPA 1983) – Light use ropes are defined by NFPA 1983 as having a minimum diameter of 9.5mm or 3/8 inch and a maximum diameter of less than 12.5mm or 1/2 inch RES 205-PPT-2-1.9

Flexible Systems Components Ropes are used for life safety – General use ropes Are stronger than light use rope Have minimum breaking strength of 40kN Range in size from 11mm or 7/16 inch to 16mm or 5/8 inch Have the same elongation requirements as light use rope

RES 205-PPT-2-1.10

Flexible Systems Components Caring for and maintaining ropes – Follow manufacturer’s specifications – Use hand wash techniques or washing machines – Have a qualified individual inspect rope after use – Document inspection in the log book if the rope passes or if it is to be placed out of service – Label the rope when completed RES 205-PPT-2-1.11

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Flexible Systems Components Webbing – The most popular size of webbing is 1 in. – Webbing comes in two types Flat webbing is made of continuous back and forth stitches of nylon Tubular webbing can be shuttle loom or needle loom

– Webbing is used for rigging and anchor straps

RES 205-PPT-2-1.12

Flexible Systems Components Cordage – Prusik cords – Prusik loops

Life Safety Harnesses – Class I: Fastens around waist and thighs or under buttocks – Class II: Fits around waist and thighs or under buttocks; higher design load than Class I – Class III: Incorporates a Class II harness with a chest harness RES 205-PPT-2-1.13

Hardware Vital information that must be stamped directly into hardware Different types of materials used in hardware – Two or three elements – Aluminum – Steel

RES 205-PPT-2-1.14

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Hardware Hardware used for descending a rope – – – –

Eight plates Brake bar racks Tube-type Passive breaking

Hardware used for connections – Makes the components interrelated – Makes the components easy to use – Must be strong enough to hold all the components together RES 205-PPT-2-1.15

Hardware Hardware used for transferring force – – – –

Sheaves Side plates Axle Axle bearings

Hardware used for a variety of other rescue operations – – – –

Rigging plates Swivels Snaplinks Bull rings RES 205-PPT-2-1.16

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, the student will be able to identify all equipment used during a technical rope rescue incident to a written test accuracy of 70%.

RES 205-PPT-2-1.17

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Review Introduction Units of Measurement Flexible Systems Components Hardware

RES 205-PPT-2-1.18

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Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Lesson 2-2 Life Safety Knots for Rope Rescue Operations

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, demonstration and reading materials, analyze the knots for a rope rescue incident and demonstrate the capability to tie rescue knots to a written test accuracy of 70% or satisfaction of the instructor.

RES 205-PPT-2-2.1

Overview Uses and Characteristics of Rescue Knots and Hitches Common Knot Terminology Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch

RES 205-PPT-2-2.2

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Uses and Characteristics of Rescue Knots, Bends, and Hitches Uses – Anchoring – Joining ropes and webbing – Tying loops – Ascending devices – Progress capture devices (PCDs)

RES 205-PPT-2-2.3

Uses and Characteristics of Rescue Knots, Bends, and Hitches Characteristics – Are easy to tie and untie – Are easily identifiable as being tied correctly – Remain secure once tied, dressed, and set – Have an effect on rope strength – Must be dressed – Must be pre-loaded – Must be safetied

RES 205-PPT-2-2.4

Common Knot Terminology Running part or end Working end Standing part or end Bight Round turn Loop

RES 205-PPT-2-2.5

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Common Knot Terminology Bend Hitch Knot Splice Whip Anchor

RES 205-PPT-2-2.6

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Double overhand knot – Make two loops in the rope – Put the running end through both loops and pull – Dress the knot – Pre-load the knot

RES 205-PPT-2-2.7

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Figure-8 – Make a loop in the rope – Pass the running end under the standing end and back down through the small loop – Dress the loop – Pre-load the knot – Secure the tail with a double overhand RES 205-PPT-2-2.8

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Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Figure-8 on a bight – Form a 3'-4' bight of rope – Form a small (1') round turn with the bight – Pass the bight back under the standing end, then up and back through the loop – Dress the knot – Pre-load the knot – Secure the tail with a double overhand RES 205-PPT-2-2.9

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Figure-8 Reweave or Follow Through – Tie a Figure-8 knot 3'-4' from the end of the rope – Loop the running end of the rope around an object – Weave the end of the rope backwards through the Figure-8 – Dress the knot – Pre-load the knot – Secure the tail with a double overhand RES 205-PPT-2-2.10

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Figure-8 Bend or Follow Through – Tie a Figure-8 knot near the end of one rope – Weave the end of another rope backwards through the Figure-8 – Dress the knot – Pre-load the knot – Secure the tail with a double overhand

RES 205-PPT-2-2.11

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Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Double loop Figure-8 – Tie a Figure-8 on a bight – Allow the standing part of the loop to pass through the body to form a bight – Bring the top loop over the knot – Pull the standing part up to form two loops – Dress the knot – Pre-load the knot – Secure the tail with a double overhand

RES 205-PPT-2-2.12

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Water bend, ring bend, or follow through – Tie a loose overhand knot near the end of a piece of webbing – Weave the end of another piece of webbing backwards through the overhand knot – Dress the knot – Pre-load the knot – A safety is not required. Leave a minimum 6" tail protruding from each end of the bend

RES 205-PPT-2-2.13

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Grapevine Knot/Double Fisherman’s Knot/ Barrel Knot – Lay two rope ends together from opposite directions with approximately 1' overlap – From the middle of the overlap, tie half of the knot with the running end of one rope and the standing end of another Make two round turns around the standing rope, back towards the middle of the overlap RES 205-PPT-2-2.14

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Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Grapevine Knot /Double Fisherman’s Knot/ Barrel Knot – From the middle of the overlap (continued) Pass the running end between the two inside strands, and then pass through both turns Dress the knot Make sure the finished knot looks like a barrel and slides on the rope without coming untied – Repeat tying the half knot from the other side of the overlap – Slide the two halves of the knot together and tighten; the knot has been pre-loaded

RES 205-PPT-2-2.15

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Clove Hitch around a pipe –

Pass the running end around the pipe

–

Bring the running end out underneath the standing part and cross over to form a half-hitch

–

Continue the wrap around the pipe for an additional turn

–

Bring the running end under the wrap, continuing in the direction of the wrap

–

Pull the running end and the standing end to tighten

–

Dress the hitch

–

Pre-load the hitch

–

Secure the tail with a double overhand RES 205-PPT-2-2.16

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Clove hitch passed over an object – Form two overhand loops, one on the left and one on the right – Pass the right loop in front of the left loop – Place both loops over the end of the object – Pull the running end and the standing end to tighten – Dress the hitch – Pre-load the hitch – Secure the tail with a double overhand RES 205-PPT-2-2.17

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Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Split Clove hitch – Pass the running end to the right of the “T” under the top part of the “T,” back over and to the right of the standing end of the rope – Pass the running end over the standing end of the rope and by the vertical part of the “T” – Pass the running end to the left of the “T,” create a loop over the top of the horizontal aspect of the “T,” pass under the horizontal aspect of the “T,” and then back up through the loop that was created RES 205-PPT-2-2.18

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Split Clove hitch – Pull the running end and the standing end to tighten – Dress the hitch – Pre-load the hitch – Secure the tail with a double overhand

RES 205-PPT-2-2.19

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Munter Hitch – Form two loops, one in front of the rope and one behind – Place the loop in front of the rope on top of the loop that is behind the rope – Clip a carabiner through both loops

RES 205-PPT-2-2.20

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Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Butterfly knot – Pick up the rope where the loop is desired – Make two complete and relatively large loops in your hand; there will be three loops in your hand – Take the front loop that is closest to your fingertips and lift it back over the remaining two loops – Take the new front loop up and back over the remaining loops RES 205-PPT-2-2.21

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Butterfly knot – Pull the last piece under, through, and in front of the other two loops, forming a bight – Pull the bight out to the desired size – Pull the running and the standing ends in opposite directions to flip and set the knot – Dress the knot – Pre-load the knot RES 205-PPT-2-2.22

Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Prusik hitch – Start with the appropriately-sized Prusik loop – Lay the Prusik loop over the host rope and pull one end of the loop back through the other, forming a loose girth hitch – Using the inside loop as a bight, continue the inside wrap for two additional turns – Dress the knot; make sure the bight is at the center – Pre-load the knot

RES 205-PPT-2-2.23

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Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch Gather the necessary equipment – Cordalette—33' of 9mm lifeline – Carabiners—2 steel locking carabiners

Put a bight in the center of the cordage Use the bight to tie a Munter hitch around the first steel carabiner Leave the bighted end sticking out of the carabiner approximately 10" RES 205-PPT-2-2.24

Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch Place the other steel carabiner in the bighted end loop and pull all the slack out of the bighted end of the rope Using the long ends of the cordalette, wrap the rope around the doubled section of cord between the two carabiners until the section is completely wrapped

RES 205-PPT-2-2.25

Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch Put a bight in the cordage near the wraps in each of the unused sections of cordage and pull each bighted section of cordage through the hole where carabiner #2 is clipped

RES 205-PPT-2-2.26

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Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch Take both bighted sections of the rope—treating all four strands as one rope—and tie an overhand knot around the long unused sections of cordage Tighten all six legs of cordage hanging from the overhand knot

RES 205-PPT-2-2.27

Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch Chain the long unused ends of the cordalette through the two bights hanging from carabiner #2 to prevent tangling – If desired, the ends of the cordalette can be joined with a double overhand bend, then clipped into carabiner #1 for added safety

RES 205-PPT-2-2.28

Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch If desired by the rescuer, it is also correct to duplicate the hitch using a 7⁄16" or 1⁄2" steel approved or rated tri-link in place of carabiner #1

RES 205-PPT-2-2.29

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Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, demonstration and reading materials, analyze the knots for a rope rescue incident and demonstrate the capability to tie rescue knots to a written test accuracy of 70% or satisfaction of the instructor.

RES 205-PPT-2-2.30

Review Uses and Characteristics of Rescue Knots and Hitches Common Knot Terminology Tying Rescue Knots and Hitches Rigging a Load-Releasing Hitch

RES 205-PPT-2-2.31

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Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Lesson 3-1 Anchor Systems I—Practical

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussion, handouts, and reading materials, identify and select safe and appropriate anchor points, and given demonstrations and opportunity to practice, construct single-point anchor systems and complex anchor systems, which include multiple anchor points, back-up anchor points, and selfequalizing anchor points.

RES 205-PPT-3-1.1

Overview Personal Protective Equipment Requirements Types of Anchor Points Placement and Positioning of Anchor Points Backing Up Anchor Points Anchor System Equipment Anchor System Principles Anchor System Safety Checks Constructing Anchor Systems RES 205-PPT-3-1.2

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Personal Protective Equipment Requirements Head protection Foot protection Hand protection Fall protection

RES 205-PPT-3-1.3

Types of Anchor Points Natural Anchors – Trees – Rocks or boulders

RES 205-PPT-3-1.4

Types of Anchor Points Structural anchors – Look for signs of deterioration – Identify weak components – Use acceptable structural components

RES 205-PPT-3-1.5

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Types of Anchor Points Additional anchor points – Vehicles (lock and chock before use) – Artificial anchor points

RES 205-PPT-3-1.6

Placement and Positioning of Anchor Points Strength of anchors – Must be “bombproof” – Must withstand calculated safety factor

Condition of anchor point – New versus old – Live versus dead

RES 205-PPT-3-1.7

Placement and Positioning of Anchor Points Direction of pull on anchor points – Select anchors that are in line with the pull of the system – Consider that the direction of the pull may change with the movement of the load

RES 205-PPT-3-1.8

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Placement and Positioning of Anchor Points Position of anchors – The best position for an anchor is directly above the load – Anchor points may need to be offset – Anchor points may need to be relocated under certain conditions Fire Falling objects

RES 205-PPT-3-1.9

Placement and Positioning of Anchor Points Directional anchor points – Can bring rope into favorable positions – Must be as strong as the main anchor

RES 205-PPT-3-1.10

Backing Up Anchor Points Reasons to back up anchor points – Uncertain strength of anchor points – Human error – Equipment failure

RES 205-PPT-3-1.11

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Backing Up Anchor Points Suggestions to follow when backing up anchor points – It is undesirable to use a single primary anchor point – Backing up to a separate point is preferable – There may be multiple back-up points if many belay lines are in use

RES 205-PPT-3-1.12

Anchor System Equipment Rope to anchor point – Loop knot to anchor – Create a tensionless hitch

RES 205-PPT-3-1.13

Anchor System Equipment Webbing slings to anchor point – Pre-sewn slings – Anchor straps – Webbing

RES 205-PPT-3-1.14

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Anchor System Principles Multiple anchor points should be as strong as the main anchor point Picket systems require more resources and time Multi-point anchors can distribute shock load better and offer insurance if equipment fails Back-up anchors must have little slack in case of shock loading Angle between the legs should not exceed 90° Load-distributing anchor systems share the load and provide readjustment if a point fails

RES 205-PPT-3-1.15

Anchor System Safety Checks Check stability of the anchor points Ensure that multiple anchor points are strong Test the position to ensure it can withstand the directional forces Provide adequate edge and abrasion protection Provide fall protection for rescuers

RES 205-PPT-3-1.16

Practical Application— Constructing a Single-Point Anchor

Wrap 3, Pull 2 RES 205-PPT-3-1.17

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Practical Application— Constructing a Tensionless Hitch

RES 205-PPT-3-1.18

Practical Application— Constructing a Directional

RES 205-PPT-3-1.19

Practical Application— Backing up an Anchor System

RES 205-PPT-3-1.20

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Practical Application— Simple Load Distributing Anchor

RES 205-PPT-3-1.21

Practical Application— Complex Load Distributing Anchor

RES 205-PPT-3-1.22

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussion, handouts, and reading materials, identify and select safe and appropriate anchor points, and given demonstrations and opportunity to practice, construct single-point anchor systems and complex anchor systems, which include multiple anchor points, back-up anchor points, and selfequalizing anchor points.

RES 205-PPT-3-1.23

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Review Personal Protective Equipment Requirements Types of Anchor Points Placement and Positioning of Anchor Points Backing Up Anchor Points Anchor System Equipment Anchor System Principles Anchor System Safety Checks Constructing Anchor Systems

RES 205-PPT-3-1.24

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Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Lesson 7-1 Belaying—Practical

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussion, handouts, reading materials, and demonstrations and opportunity to practice, describe the operation of a belay system, its capabilities and limitations, and emergency procedures to follow; and demonstrate construction and operation of a simple belay system, which includes arresting a falling load.

RES 205-PPT-7-1.1

Overview Capabilities and Limitations of a Belay System Personal Protective Equipment Requirements Components of a Belay System Belay Operations Application of Belay Devices Safety System Checks Constructing Belay Devices Belaying Loads RES 205-PPT-7-1.2

51

Capabilities and Limitations of a Belay System Types of belays – One-person belay – Rescue belays

Situations requiring a belay – – – – –

Hazardous terrain Steep slopes Confined space entry Hazardous weather conditions Vertical raises and lowers RES 205-PPT-7-1.3

Capabilities and Limitations of a Belay System Conditions that might preclude the use of belays – Numerous lines in service – Long free drops

RES 205-PPT-7-1.4

Capabilities and Limitations of a Belay System Limitations of belay systems – Reaction times are critical – Fast line speeds are difficult to manually arrest – Hardware must be compatible with the lines – Shock loads and forces can injure an out-ofposition belayer – Accelerating forces may overwhelm the devices – Moisture and dirt can cause the failure of the belay device

RES 205-PPT-7-1.5

52

Capabilities and Limitations of a Belay System Characteristics of a belayer – Ability to belay is a critical skill – Acceptance of assignment is a commitment – The life of the person at the end of the rope is in the belayer’s hands – Inability, lapse of attention, and lack of skill can result in severe injury or death for the person at the end of the rope

RES 205-PPT-7-1.6

Personal Protective Equipment Requirements

Head protection

Hand protection

Foot protection

Fall protection RES 205-PPT-7-1.7

Components of a Belay System Load Connection point to load Belay line Belay device Belayer Anchor

RES 205-PPT-7-1.8

53

Belay Operations Belay commands – – – – – – – –

“On belay?” “Belay on” “On rappel/climb/raise/lower” “Rappel/climb/raise/lower on” “Off belay” “Belay off” “Slack” “Tension”

RES 205-PPT-7-1.9

Belay Operations Techniques of belaying – Focus attention on the load – Keep the body away from lines and hardware – React quickly and properly – Never insert yourself into the system

RES 205-PPT-7-1.10

Belay Operations Techniques of belaying – Never remove hands from the belay device – Belay or apply friction with the dominant hand – Be aware that different devices apply different amounts of friction and control – Maintain the proper slack in the line

RES 205-PPT-7-1.11

54

Application of Belay Devices Application of a Munter hitch – Use high-stretch Kernmantle rope – Connect a carabiner to an independent anchor point – Tie the belay line with a Munter hitch to the carabiner – Give and acknowledge the commands – Bring the braking side of the rope to the load side of the rope to provide friction

RES 205-PPT-7-1.12

Application of Belay Devices Application of a belay plate – Use only for single-person belay systems – Connect a carabiner to an independent anchor point – Push a bight of rope through the plate – Connect the device and the bight into the carabiner – Give and acknowledge the commands – Bring the braking side of the rope 180° to the load side of the rope to provide friction

RES 205-PPT-7-1.13

Application of Belay Devices Application of tandem Prusiks – Use tandem Prusik belay system appropriate for more than a one-person load – Connect a carabiner to an independent anchor point – Apply two different-length Prusik loops with triple wrap Prusik knots to the belay line – Connect both Prusiks to the carabiner – Give and acknowledge the commands – Release both Prusiks to provide friction RES 205-PPT-7-1.14

55

Safety System Checks The belay system is appropriate for the load Personal protective equipment is used Belay person is trained and skilled Command terminology is understood by the entire team Environmental conditions are acceptable for the belay mechanism Fall protection is in use for any personnel close to the edge

RES 205-PPT-7-1.15

Constructing Belay Devices Construct a belay system with a Munter hitch and arrest a horizontal load Construct a belay system with a belay plate and arrest a horizontal load Construct a belay system with tandem Prusiks and arrest a horizontal load

RES 205-PPT-7-1.16

Belaying Loads Belay a vertical load with a Munter hitch Belay a vertical load with a belay plate Belay a vertical load with tandem Prusiks

RES 205-PPT-7-1.17

56

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussion, handouts, reading materials, and demonstrations and opportunity to practice, describe the operation of a belay system, its capabilities and limitations, and emergency procedures to follow; and demonstrate construction and operation of a simple belay system, which includes arresting a falling load.

RES 205-PPT-7-1.18

Review Capabilities and Limitations of a Belay System Personal Protective Equipment Requirements Components of a Belay System Belay Operations Application of Belay Devices Safety System Checks Constructing Belay Devices Belaying Loads RES 205-PPT-7-1.19

57

58

Rescue Technician— Technical Rope Rescue Lesson 15-1 Highline Operations I

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, describe how to conduct a target hazard analysis for highline operations, identify the types of highline systems and the related equipment needed to construct them, and identify the rigging principles for system tensioning.

RES 205-PPT-15-1.1

Overview Target Hazard Analysis Highline System Types Highline System Construction Equipment Highline Rigging Principles

RES 205-PPT-15-1.2

59

Target Hazard Analysis Assess the rescue area – Utility hazards – Water hazards – Terrain hazards or features – Environmental exposure hazards

RES 205-PPT-15-1.3

Building Rescues º 90

RES 205-PPT-15-1.4

Swiftwater Rescue

RES 205-PPT-15-1.5

60

Target Hazard Analysis Examine areas where rescues may take place – Crossing dangerous or difficult terrain Canyons Marshes Industrial areas Heavy debris locations Areas where it would be dangerous or impractical to carry a litter

RES 205-PPT-15-1.6

Single-Rope Highline

RES 205-PPT-15-1.7

Single-Rope Kootenay Highline

Single Main Line

Single Haul Line Rescuer is attached directly to the Kootenay carriage RES 205-PPT-15-1.8

61

Single-Rope Dual-Pulley System Kootenay Carriage Pulley Track Line

2:1 Change of Direction

Change of Direction Mind Prusiks when raising or lowering

RES 205-PPT-15-1.9

Double-Rope (Kootenay) Highline Track Lines

Change of Direction Tag Line

RES 205-PPT-15-1.10

Double-Rope (Kootenay) Dual-Pulley System

Track Line 1

Track Line 2

RES 205-PPT-15-1.11

62

Highline System Construction Equipment Rope – Do not use high-stretch Kernmantle – Use a minimum 1/2" low-stretch Kernmantle – Use 7/16" rope to carry equipment on foot – Use the 15:1 safety factor as a guide for loading the rope

RES 205-PPT-15-1.12

Highline System Construction Equipment Hardware – Pulleys

– A-frames

– Carabiners

– Pickets

– Figure-8 DCDs

– Stokes baskets

– Brake bar racks

– LSPs

– Screw links

– SKEDs

– Ascenders

– Hook poles

– Rigging plates

– Prusiks

– Edge rollers

– Dynamometers

– Tripods

– Line guns

RES 205-PPT-15-1.13

Highline System Construction Equipment Elevated anchor points – General guidelines Highline or rope rescue operations are easier to manage using a steel beam or tree for the high anchor point Elevated anchor points are often unavailable or too weak to hold the load safely; artificial high direction (AHD) anchor points can be created using tripods, bipods (A-frames), or monopods Systems are commercially available or can be made from scratch with wood poles

RES 205-PPT-15-1.14

63

Highline System Construction Equipment Elevated anchor points – Types Tripods

RES 205-PPT-15-1.15

Highline System Construction Equipment Elevated anchor points – Types Bipods (or Aframes) Monopods (or gin poles)

Bipods (or A-frames)

RES 205-PPT-15-1.16

Highline Rigging Principles Highline Elements Tag Lines

Tag Lines

Main Line

Pulleys Load Lowering Line Near Side

Far Side RES 205-PPT-15-1.17

64

Highline Rigging Principles 120° of Sag or Less (Interior Angle)

Ensure that the critical interior angle is NOT exceeded

RES 205-PPT-15-1.18

Highline Rigging Principles Tensioning and Loading – Tensioning Guidelines The 10% Rule –

The 10% Rule is a reliable method to limit the force on a highline system

–

The sag should equal 10% of the length of the span for every 200 pounds placed on the main line

RES 205-PPT-15-1.19

Highline Rigging Principles Tensioning and Overloading – Tensioning guidelines The 15º Rule – The 15º Rule is used when the highline is unloaded – The line should sag approximately 15º without a load – The field inclination gauge can be used for assistance

RES 205-PPT-15-1.20

65

Test with a Dynamometer

RES 205-PPT-15-1.21

Student Performance Objective Given information from discussions, handouts, and reading materials, describe how to conduct a target hazard analysis for highline operations, identify the types of highline systems and the related equipment needed to construct them, and identify the rigging principles for system tensioning.

RES 205-PPT-15-1.22

Review Target Hazard Analysis Highline System Types Highline System Construction Equipment Highline Rigging Principles

RES 205-PPT-15-1.23

66