Autumn 2012

… to the Mediterranean & Scandinavia 2013

Scandinavia Read all about it

Greece

Explore the home of drama

• FREE Balcony upgrades† • Mini-suite upgrades from £200pp* Plus book a Balcony or above to choose one of these fantastic EXTRA benefits: • FREE car parking^ • FREE coach transfers^ • OR up to $200 per couple FREE onboard spending money#

Quirky but cool See the best of the Med in a different light

Onboard Princess news & information

Unique & Boutique Mediterranean

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If Carlsberg made cities… Copenhagen

Vino de la tierra Canary Islands

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ScandiNoire Scandinavia

Simply the best Travel hotspots

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All about Odessa Baltic

Legend of the Falls Norway

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travel On

Back to its

Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is about to undergo a massive $150million restoration. The 550-year-old market is due to be restored to its former glory, with work starting early in 2013 to bring back its original character and address safety issues, which have been caused by earthquakes and leaks over the years. The restoration was brought forward after a stuntman accident caused damage to a 330-year-old jewellery shop in the bazaar during filming of the latest James Bond movie, Skyfall, starring Daniel Craig (pictured left).

The latest destination news and other travel titbits

Hartnett comes to Hampshire

Special sites

Michelin-starred chef Angela Hartnett will be opening a new restaurant early next year – in the New Forest! Residing within the award-winning country house hotel Lime Wood, and ideally located for those staying in Hampshire overnight before joining their cruise in Southampton, the venue’s name is a closely guarded secret. The menu, too, is being kept under wraps, though it is thought it will include lots of fresh, local produce sourced from the New Forest. What is certain is that visitors are in for a gastronomic treat! 02380 287 177; limewoodhotel.co.uk

Bethlehem’s Church of the Nativity and the Pilgrimage Route is one of 26 sites to be added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2012. Situated 10km south of Jerusalem, the site has great cultural significance and the church retains elaborate floor mosaics dating back to 339AD. The church and pilgrimage route join many other important sites on the World Heritage List, including the historic centres of Bruges and Tallinn, and the city of Le Havre, described as an outstanding example of urban planning. Some countries are so well preserved that visitors can’t walk two feet without stumbing across a UNESCO site. Greece, for example, has 17 of them – including the Old Town of Corfu, Delos and the Acropolis of Athens. For more on World Heritage Sites, visit whc.unesco.org

A real hotspot! Win a digital camera! Puzzles

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Travelogue Liz McClarnon

Behind the lens Rome

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The Mediterranean’s beaches came top with Brits in a recent survey by Expedia, with nine of the world’s top 20 in Spain, France and Italy.

The Little

A naughty Lake District hotel has made headlines all around the world by replacing copies of the Bible in its rooms with racy novel Fifty Shades of Grey. credits: OUtlook collection, corbis / © k.maack / alamy / corbis

Greek drama Greece

The latest tourist craze in Iceland is not for the faint-hearted. Visitors at this ‘new’ attraction are given a tour of a volcano – from the inside! Thrihnukagigur volcano itself is anything but new (its last eruption was 4,000 years ago) but it’s only in 2012 that visitors have been able to witness its multi-hued interior. Situated just outside Reykjavík, the tour involves hiking across a lava field before descending 120 metres to reach the base of the dormant volcano.

bazaar best

Mer-man Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid is an iconic sight, recognisable the world over, but – as visitors to nearby Elsinore are discovering – there’s a new boy in town. The lone figure perched on a rock here (in an identical pose to his ‘sister’) is Han, a statue created by cheeky artists Elmgreen & Dragset, the pair responsible for the current Fourth Plinth statue of a young boy on a rocking horse in Trafalgar Square. Han and his rock are crafted in stainless steel, reflecting and distorting the light. Look closely and you may spot him blinking for a split second – he does it once an hour.

If you have any comments or queries about this magazine, please email your thoughts to: [email protected]

Editor Tracy Keen Design Heather Pierpoint, Headfudge Design Ltd Cover Peter McCabe/Alamy © Princess Cruises 2012

Editorial opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of Princess Cruises, nor does Princess Cruises recommend or guarantee any third-party products mentioned in this publication. Errors and omissions are in no way the responsibility of Princess Cruises. All information is correct at the time of going to press and is subject to change. Prize draw terms and conditions: The prize is as stated, subject to availability and there is no cash alternative. No responsibility will be taken for lost, damaged or delayed entries. Employees of Princess Cruises and prize suppliers may not enter the draw. The closing date for entry is 31 December 2012, after which a winner will be drawn at random from the correct entries received. Princess Cruises is the promoter of the draw and its decision is final. Princess Cruises is a trading name of Carnival plc, a company registered in England and Wales with company number 04039524. Registered office address: 5 Gainsford Street, London SE1 2NE.

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Mediterranean & Scandinavia

Why

cruise with

FREE

Balcony Upgrade†

Princess Cruises is The Consummate Host, so let us take care of the details while you escape completely…  relaxed, rejuvenating retreat at sea. A Our goal is for you to escape completely. That’s why you’ll find every detail is designed with relaxation in mind – from the friendly stateroom steward who greets you by name to the comfortably elegant venues that range from intimate to lively.

 elicious, fresh food. We take dining D seriously because we know how important it is to your cruise experience. All our food is freshly prepared from scratch and our chefs use local products to create dishes inspired by the region you’re visiting.

Warm, welcoming service. Just unpack and let us handle the rest. That’s our goal as The Consummate Host – to make you feel content and comfortable starting from the minute you set foot onboard.

 xclusive amenities. Only on Princess can E you enjoy watching Movies Under the Stars, with complimentary blankets and popcorn. Meet friends for a small bite, wine by the glass and enjoy live entertainment in the Piazza. Or spend a few hours of tranquillity in The Sanctuary – a retreat just for adults.

 he best itineraries. As destination T experts, a cruise with us means that you can be sure to experience the very best of each region you visit, no matter which of our 100+ itineraries and 300+ ports you decide to choose.

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 pecial touches. We believe it’s the little S complimentary things that matter, like cooked-to-order waffle creations during breakfast, cold, refreshing lemonade in the Horizon Court, soft-serve ice cream, fresh-baked cookies and milk, and chilled face cloths at the gangway when you return from shore excursions, to name just a few.

• FREE Balcony upgrades† • Mini-suite upgrades from £200pp* Plus book a Balcony or above to choose one of these fantastic EXTRA benefits: • FREE car parking^ • FREE coach transfers^ • OR up to $200 per couple FREE onboard spending money#

A choice of FREE car parking^ or FREE coach transfers^

Book your Mediterranean or Scandinavia 2013 cruise now to receive some fantastic benefits, including FREE balcony upgrades† on all featured cruises, mini-suite upgrades from just £200pp* PLUS a choice of FREE car parking in Southampton or Dover^, FREE coach transfers to and from Southampton^ or up to $200 FREE onboard spending money# when you book a balcony stateroom or above.

Free car parking is available on all Crown Princess, Caribbean Princess and Ocean Princess cruises sailing roundtrip from Southampton or Dover when you book a balcony stateroom or above. Free car parking must be confirmed at the time of booking, quoting RDB. Once your cruise booking is confirmed, contact Cruise and Passenger Services to book parking in Southampton (0845 0713 939; candps.com), or Dover Cruise Port to book parking in Dover (0844 504 1771; doverport.co.uk), quoting RDB and your six-digit cruise booking reference. Car parking can only be booked from 72 hours after you have confirmed your cruise until 35 days prior to your cruise departure.

Free coach transfers between Southampton and a range of pick-up points around the UK are available on all Crown Princess cruises of 7 nights or longer sailing roundtrip from Southampton, as well as the North Cape & Norwegian Fjords cruise on Caribbean Princess, when you book a balcony stateroom or above. Free coach transfers must be confirmed at the time of booking, quoting RDC. Once your cruise booking is confirmed please book your coach transfers by calling Eavesway Travel on 01942 727 985, or visit eaveswaytravel.com, quoting RDC and your six-digit cruise booking reference. Coach transfers can only be booked from 72 hours after you have confirmed your cruise until 35 days prior to your cruise departure.

Remember – if you choose not to take advantage of our free parking or coach transfers, or you are booking a fly-cruise, you can opt to receive up to $200 FREE onboard spending money# instead!

Book now and make your cruise

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These offers should be read in conjunction with Princess Cruises Booking Conditions which can be found in the Mediterranean & Scandinavia 2013 1st edition brochure. Lead in fares shown are cruise only, subject to availability based upon the lowest available balcony grade and include Government Fees and Taxes. Prices are correct at time of going to print, and may go up or down. All offers are subject to availability on new bookings made by 31 October 2012. Terms and conditions apply.

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Main image Festive figurines in Ferrigno’s workshop in Naples’ ‘Christmas Alley’ Opposite page, from top Products for sale at the ancient Santa Maria Novella pharmacy in Florence; Barcelona’s magic shop has been trading for 130 years; wooden Pinocchio toys are a popular souvenir from Rome and Florence

credits: alamy

Unique& Boutique Looking for the perfect souvenir? In even the most famous of Mediterranean cities, there are some hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, as Pip Jones illustrates…

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What is a souvenir, really? It’s so much more than just an object upon a shelf. It’s a memory, a means by which you can re-live a day in time. One glance at a well-chosen memento, and the scents on the breeze, the faces you encountered, the sounds and flavours of a once-visited island or city, all come flooding back. Almost every place has its classic offerings – few people, for instance, must leave Pisa without their own miniature tower. But almost everywhere has its hidden gems too and, if you step beyond a city’s main shopping boulevards, you can discover some really rather unique treasures, both in terms of what you find and where you find them. Take the fascinating Officina Profumo Farmaceutica at Via della Scala in Florence. Situated in the unassuming (by this city’s standards, anyway) church of Santa Maria Novella, this ancient apothecary celebrates 400 years of continuous business in 2012. In fact, its origins lie back in the 13th century, when Dominican monks began to concoct herbal remedies here. Today, you can still purchase those traditional elixirs, as well as modern skincare products and deliciously scented perfumes. You might even take the time to wander around the little museum, which documents the history of the pharmacy, or the wonderfully aromatic herb garden. Naples is another city where tradition abounds, and one particular street, known as ‘Christmas Alley’, offers a truly unique shopping experience. Some of the families working here have been plying their trade on the cobbles of Via San Gregorio Armeno since the 1930s and, all year round, the artisans toil away at creating figurines for presepe nativity scenes. It might feel rather strange to see those festive little faces should you be visiting during the heat of the summer, but there are all sorts of other modern and quirky characters for sale, including politicians and other topical figures, and browsing for souvenirs and gifts is enormous fun. The wares in Boutique du Rocher on Avenue de la Madone in Monte Carlo are somewhat more varied and, in this city of such great riches, perhaps what makes this gift shop a real gem is its relatively reasonable prices! Away from all the designer labels of the famous Golden Circle, this sprawling store – considered a piece of local history – was opened by Princess Grace in the 1960s, and proceeds from sales go to good causes. Visitors can browse to their heart’s content as they choose from handcrafted frames and mirrors, embroidered tablecloths and colourful ceramics, enjoying the knowledge that their souvenirs have been purchased in the most glamorous charity shop in the world. You might find yourself at the receiving end of some generosity should you ever visit La Bottega del Marmoraro in Rome. Enrico Fiorentini, a man of advanced years, is a traditional marmoraro (an artisan working with marble) who reputedly loves nothing more than chatting to enthusiasts about his art – and he’s even been known to offer a dish of pasta to customers who happen to stop by when he’s cooking. His workshop, situated on Via Margutta – number 53B, just two doors down from Gregory Peck’s famous abode in Roman Holiday – is packed full of completed pieces, from busts and cherubs to small plaques that have already been inscribed with Roman quips but, for a very reasonable price, Fiorentini will etch a few words of your choosing. Making words appear on marble is one thing, but you could soon be making things disappear if you visit El Rey de la Màgia on Carrer de la Princesa in Barcelona – one of the oldest magic shops in the world. Having experienced Las Ramblas (and you must, it is a market like no other) and La Boqueria (a flower market offering an unmissable sensory experience), veer away from the main drag, towards El Born, to discover this 130-year-old store’s fascinating array of conjuring curiosities. From humble packs of playing cards to magic boxes and manuals for the more adventurous, there is plenty here to amuse – the assistants may even give you a demonstration if you ask. For more inspiration on spellbinding tricks to master, the nearby Teatre Museu stages regular magic shows. Of course, a great souvenir needn’t come in the shape of a top hat or a white rabbit to be magical – every place has at least one hidden treasure up its sleeve, and part of the fun is in discovering it.

Take it from me “After visiting the glorious Trevi Fountain, wander the streets surrounding it. On my first ever visit to the Eternal City, I did just that, and stumbled across a wonderful little toy shop, its window packed full of brightly painted wooden mobiles, whirring clockwork toys and decadent swirling carousels. Assisted by the Italian shopkeeper – a warm, homely woman who was delighted to discover that I was expecting a baby – I left with a lovely set of stacking rings (topped with a little wooden Pinocchio figure), a gift for my unborn child and the perfect reminder of our first visit to Rome.” Annie Sands, a photographer based in Rome

See for yourself… Crown Princess will be sailing roundtrip from Southampton to all the cities mentioned in this feature on her 14-night Mediterranean Medley cruise in 2013, with balconies starting from £1,749 per person. Alternatively enjoy a 12-night Grand Mediterranean cruise on Royal Princess’s maiden season. To see more of the Mediterranean, check out Crown Princess’s 17-night Mediterranean & Adriatic cruise.

Book now and make your cruise

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Main image The volcanic vineyards of La Geria on Lanzarote Inset images, from top Mount Teide adds drama to the landscape of Tenerife; Gran Granaria’s landscape varies from the lush northeast to the dunes of Maspalomas in the south Bottom right Canarian wines even courted praise from the great playwright William Shakespeare

Main image The famous Elephant Gate at the Carlsberg factory Insets, from left the Gefion Fountain was erected to celebrate Carlsberg’s 50th birthday; The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Bottom left The Little Mermaid statue was a gift to Copenhagen

Vino de la tierra

If made cities…

The diverse landscapes of the Canary Islands make for some outstanding wines – and some magical memories too, says Claire Gervat

Copenhagen is most famous for two things – Carlsberg lager and the statue of The Little Mermaid. But not every visitor knows the connection between the two, says Adrian Mourby

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a statue in Rome. Visitors to the brewery today may notice that each of the elephants sports the initial of one of Carl’s children: Theodora, Paula, Helge and Vagn. One of Carl’s final gifts to Copenhagen came when he commissioned sculptor Edvard Eriksen to create a bronze statue of The Little Mermaid, which resides on Langelinie waterfront. Jacobsen had become fascinated by Hans Christian Andersen’s story after seeing it as a ballet at the Royal Theatre. Prima ballerina Ellen Price reportedly posed for the head but refused to model naked for the body of the sculpture that would become the defining landmark of the city – that honour went to the artist’s wife. Indeed, the legacy of the Jacobsens stretches far beyond the buildings that bear the Carlsberg name. The Church of Jesus (the family’s final resting place), the Gefion Fountain, the Botanic Garden and countless other projects in Copenhagen have all received donations of one kind or another from the Carlsberg empire. This Danish family not only turned brewing into a science – they turned the profits into art.

See for yourself… Emerald Princess will sail roundtrip from Copenhagen on her 11-night Scandinavia & Russia cruises during 2013, with balconies from £1,795 per person.

Book now and make your cruise

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See for yourself… Crown Princess will sail on 11 and 12-night Canary Islands itineraries in 2013, with balconies starting from £1,449 per person. credits: alamy / 4 corners images

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arlsberg was founded by Jacob Christian Jacobsen in 1847 as the first industrialised brewery in Denmark. Jacobsen named the venture after his son Carl, and it was Carl who in 1913 donated the statue of The Little Mermaid, as one of a number of gifts the Jacobsen family has given to the city of Copenhagen. JC Jacobsen was not only a businessman. He was also a philanthropist and art collector. When Frederiksborg Palace, 40km north of Copenhagen, was badly fire-damaged in 1859, he paid for much of the restoration and funded a museum of national history that now occupies the palace. Jacob and his son were estranged for much of Carl’s adult life – only reconciling a year before JC’s death – after a series of disagreements over the breweries. The elder Jacobsen wanted to keep Carlsberg at a size he could supervise himself, while Carl had plans for expansion; they also disagreed on issues of pricing, storage and marketing. However, Carl did share his father’s passion for art and became an even more prolific collector. In 1882, he endowed the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, which today contains more than 10,000 works of art, including antique sculpture from Egypt, Rome and Greece and a collection of 19thcentury Danish art. The current Glyptotek buildings in Dante Square, opened in 1906, are works of art in their own right. Carl commissioned art too, including the famous Elephant Gate that guards the entrance to the ‘new’ Carlsberg factory, inspired by

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Of all the Canary Islands’ wine-making areas, none is quite as otherworldly as La Geria on Lanzarote, a starkly beautiful place in the shadow of the bleak Fire Mountains. Its vineyards are like none I’ve ever seen, each vine a splash of green in its own small crater in a sea of tiny black volcanic pebbles called picón, and protected from the wind by a low C-shaped wall. It looks as if hundreds of horseshoes have been thrown across the stony fields. On my first visit to Lanzarote, I spent several fascinating hours at El Grifo winery in Masdache, the Canary Islands’ oldest. Its bodega, or wine shop, is one of several just off the narrow scratch of a road that runs through the middle of La Geria. I sat on the terrace with a friend, a glass of crisp white wine and a plate of local cured ham and cheese to share, gazing out at the haunting scenery. There have been many more visits since, each one giving me a chance to try another variety: red, rosé, sparkling or honeyed, all equally delicious. Tenerife is also known for its wines, and I became an instant expert after a stop at Casa del Vino La Baranda in El Sauzal, a traditional country estate surrounded by vineyards in the island’s verdant north. In its information-packed museum, I learned about everything from how viticulture first came to the islands to the evocative names of Tenerife’s wine-making districts. I love the glorious

scenery on the vineyard tour, especially on clear days when the towering peak of Mount Teide makes a suitably dramatic backdrop to the rolling hills draped with serried rows of vines. I’m always amazed by Gran Canaria’s sheer variety of landscapes and microclimates. The visitors who flock to its south-coast beaches would be surprised to learn that Gran Canaria has 61 vineyards, mainly in the lush northeast. I’ve found the best way to appreciate them is at the island’s cellars – almost all have tasting facilities. The road to the impressive Caldera de Bandama, a long-extinct volcano, has several bodegas along it and amazing views of the north, east and mountainous west. I’ve visited these beautiful islands many times, but nothing can beat the simple perfection of sipping a glass of wine from a newly discovered vineyard while gazing out at the extraordinary landscapes that cultivated it.

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Dark and thrilling, Scandinavian fiction is everywhere at the moment, steadily taking over our bookshelves, TVs and the big screen. What is it about this corner of the world that has captured our imaginations? Adrian Mourby investigates…

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rime has recently become Scandinavia’s biggest export since IKEA. Certainly, if Henning Mankell’s Wallander is to be believed, the town of Ystad is an even more dangerous place to live than Inspector Morse’s Oxford. If you’re feeling brave, and have time to spare in Copenhagen, you might like to jump on a train and find out for yourself – this quaint Swedish town, all cobblestone streets and medieval charm, is just over an hour away from the Danish capital. Follow in the footsteps of Wallander with a walking tour of the city; you can even take a concept tour and try to solve some of his famous mysteries. Further up the coast, Stockholm is the main location for Stieg Larsson’s bestselling Millennium Trilogy, which was turned into three Swedish films, a six-part mini-series and the Hollywood movie The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Filmed largely on the island of Södermalm, often described as the Brooklyn of Stockholm, a visit to this bohemian district might throw up some familiar sights – lead character Mikael Blomkvist’s regular café, Mellqvists Kaffebar (also Stieg Larsson’s real-life favourite) on Hornsgatan and Salvation tattoo parlour on Sankt Paulsgatan among them. As well as the movies and the scores of novels that are published each year, on TV screens too audiences are being enthralled by ScandiNoire. The Danish TV series The Killing (no prizes for guessing its subject matter) was such a popular export that it earned the dubious honour of a US remake, while crime drama The Bridge – named after the Øresund, the bridge that joins Denmark and Sweden – debuted with more than a million viewers when it first aired on BBC4. Why is this? The truth is that Nordisk krimi (Nordic crime fiction) really began as a genre in the 1960s and 70s, with the Martin Beck series of crime novels by Per Wahlöö and Maj Sjöwall, which dwelt as much

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on the shortcomings of Swedish society as the procedures of solving murder. Henning Mankell’s Wallander novels were the first to attract a big international following – indeed, Mankell has now sold more than 40 million books worldwide – but they too dealt as much with Wallander’s relationships as the crimes he attempts to clear up. In the wake of Wallander came Ake Edwardson’s Erik Winter, Helene Tursten’s Irene Huss, Jo Nesbø’s Harry Hole, and many more besides. In all these novels, the personal life of the investigator is balanced against bleak stories of human degradation and criminality. Perhaps it shouldn’t be surprising that the very north of Europe has produced such powerful personal dramas. Norway created Henrik Ibsen, one of the greatest dramatists of the individual versus society, while Sweden produced August Strindberg, one of the greatest dramatists of the interior mind. Sweden also gave us Ingmar Bergman, who carried both these Nordic sensibilities into film. The Scandinavian crime novel and its screen spin-off simply continue this tradition, with apparently insoluble crimes providing the hook to lure a reader in. Perhaps the scenery of the region, too, plays its part in inspiring these works of fiction. The pristine stillness of Norway’s fjords, the quiet-flowing rivers of Sweden, the vast polder landscape of Denmark, and the endless sky presiding above it all, are good places for writers – and their detectives – to reflect on good and evil, to examine the complexity of human nature. For travellers passing through the Baltic Sea, the landscapes before us do not represent desperate criminality and bungling law enforcement, but places for introspection and, ultimately, escape. As Henning Mankell says, “Wallander is sometimes longing to be somewhere else, far away from all the misery. Just as we all can do every now and then.”

See for yourself… Crown Princess and Ocean Princess will both visit Scandinavia in 2013 on their 14-night Baltic cruises, with balconies starting from £2,049 per person. Main image Stockholm, setting for many ScandiNoire thrillers Inset, from left Novels from Stieg Larsson and Henning Mankell, Danish TV series The Killing and Swedish movie The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo

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SCANDINAVIA | PRINCESS CRUISES | 11

credits: 4 corners images / alamy

SCANDI NOIRE

Take it from me

“Fridolfs, situated on Lingsgatan in Ystad, is Wallander’s favourite café, an unremarkable building, as well known for its police-blue Wallander pastries as its herring sandwiches. Fridolfs was opened in 1938 by a baker called Fridolf Mårtensson and has been sold on many times. One of the owners, Helen Power, invented the Wallander pastry in 2004 but Mr Menkell tried to ban it. So Fridolfs got permission from a local family named Wallander who testified that the café sold it in their name. That’s why you can still buy Wallander pastries here.” Michel Eriksson, Fridolfs

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Have you ever wondered where you can find the classiest cocktails or the most spectacular scenery? From sweet treats in Turkey to macabre monuments in Egypt, Tracy Keen offers our roundup of top travel experiences…

A memorable lunch The Dubrovnik riviera in Croatia, where fabulous food goes hand in hand with sensational scenery. Take in mesmerising views of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s Old Town from the terraces at Nautika, as you enjoy the finest fresh seafood – the lobster from nearby Vis is highly recommended – and a chilled glass of locally produced Malvasija wine. If shellfish is your thing, and you have a little time to spare, head along the coast to Ston, where you’ll find the best oysters in Croatia.

Best for...

ALSO EXCELLENT Noma in Copenhagen, a Michelin-starred extravaganza of Nordic cuisine, set in an old warehouse on the waterfront at Christianshavn.

Sweet souvenirs Kusadasi in Turkey may be the gateway to the historic site of Ephesus, but it’s also the ideal place to pick up some sweet treats on your travels. Baklava is one of Turkey’s signature delicacies and Antepli Et Lokantasi & Tatli in Kusadasi offers a delectable selection to take away. Sticky golden morsels made from delicate layered filo pastry glazed with honey or syrup and filled or topped with nuts – pistachios and walnuts typically – a helping of authentic baklava makes the sweetest of souvenirs.

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Exploring your dark side

ALSO EXCELLENT Bruges, where some of the world’s finest chocolatiers work their magic and package it up in tempting mouthfuls of chocolaty perfection.

If you are mesmerised by the macabre, Alexandria is definitely the destination for you. It’s easy to forget that most Egyptian pyramids were actually built as tombs, elaborate final resting places created for Pharaohs and their consorts. Add to this the Catacombs of Kom El-Shouqafa, Sakkara burial ground and the tomb of King Tutankhamen and you have the makings for a very deathly day out.

Special scenery

ALSO EXCELLENT The Capuchin Crypt in Rome, set beneath Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini church, where the bones of 4,000 bodies (believed to be Capuchin friars) are on display.

Iceland offers scenery so stunning that it really has to be seen to be believed, with the region surrounding its capital Reykjavík the finest showcase of its spectacular natural wonders. From the simple magnificence of the Gullfoss Waterfall to the eerie luminosity of the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, via awesome spurting geysers, super-heated mud pools and breathtaking volcanoes, this region really is an exhibition of Mother Nature’s finest work. ALSO EXCELLENT The mountainous island of Corsica, which boasts picturesque villages, impressive rock formations, great gorges and one of the most beautiful coastlines in the Mediterranean.

Living the high life

The Sky Bar in Fl orence is the ult imate viewpoint in a city made for sightseeing . Set on the uppermost floor of the medieval Conso rti Tower near the Ponte Vecchio, this is where well-h eeled locals and passing visitors stop for a drink, som e sushi or an open-air yoga class. Join them and you’l l also enjoy incredible views of the River Arno, Br unelleschi’s dome, the Palazzo Vecchio and much more besides. ALSO EXCELLEN T 360 in Istanb ul, a restaurant that off ers a fabulous lunch menu and even more exquisit e 360-degree views of the city.

See for yourself… The Princess Cruises fleet will be visiting all destinations mentioned in this feature during our Mediterranean & Scandinavia 2013 programme.

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credits: alamy

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Main image An example of Odessa’s Parisian-inspired architecture Inset images, from left Odessa’s opulent Opera & Ballet House; The Twelve Chairs monument sits in the City Garden Bottom left The famous Potemkin Steps

Odessa All about

legendfalls

Beautiful Mediterranean-style sandy beaches, Parisian café culture and historic landmarks make Odessa a wonderful place to while away a day, as Claire Gervat explains… Battleship Potemkin, made to celebrate the 1905 mutiny of sailors against their Tsarist officers. Built by Odessa’s governor Prince Vorontsov as a present to his wife, it originally had 200 steps, though the sharp-eyed will notice that it now has just 192. All the same, it still makes a spectacular entrance to Odessa from the port, the vast staircase forming the illusion of a pyramid for those standing at the bottom. Once you’ve seen the main sights, there are plenty of reasons to stay and soak up the atmosphere. Odessa’s subtropical climate helped it to become a popular spa resort in the 19th century, and this balmy weather draws people to its long sandy beaches today, a rarity on Ukraine’s generally pebbly south coast. Away from the beach, the lush City Garden on Deribasovskaya Street is a popular meeting spot for locals and an atmospheric place to peoplewatch. There are also plenty of cafés and restaurants, as well as an array of shops, along this street, the city’s delightfully bustling hub. Spare some time to wander down the covered arcade known as Passage at the City Garden end; its architecture and sculptures give it a unique, if slightly crumbling, charm – a perfect epithet, in fact, for the entire wonderful city.

Norway’s majestic beauty is the stuff of legends and, as Pip Jones explains, it’s easy to see why… Main image The magnificent Geirangerfjord Inset image The Seven Sisters waterfall Below According to folklore, trolls helped to sculpt Norway’s rugged but beautiful landscape

There are some places so breathtaking, otherworldly even, that we mortals feel compelled to look to the supernatural to help explain their existence. It’s unsurprising then that the magnificent fjords of Norway – where every bend seemingly reveals a more bewitching sight – are so steeped in myth and legend. Norwegians are renowned for telling folk tales and, embellished through the centuries, each one adds a sparkle of the unknown to places so beautiful they must be seen to be believed. Indeed, legend has it that magic played its part in shaping the landscape itself; the Dalsnibba mountain plateau, towering almost 1,500m above the pristine waters of Geirangerfjord, is dotted with calcified ‘trolls’, said to have turned to stone when they stepped into the sunlight. With its vast cliff faces, densely forested hillsides, glacial views and tumbling waterfalls, Geirangerfjord is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most stunning places on the planet, it’s also the setting for one of Norway’s best-known legends – that of the opposing falls, the Seven Sisters and their Suitor. As one version of the story goes, a man who was entranced by seven unmarried beauties foolishly asked each of them to be his bride. Rejected by every

one, his destiny was to be tormented by them forever, watching them frolic and dance down the cliff face on the other side of the fjord. The sisters are not the only legendary beings said to find their fun in the torment of young men. Travelling down Sognefjord, the longest and deepest fjord in Norway, you might hear, across the perfect still air, the alluring song of underworld temptress Huldra. Some say that she resides behind the spectacular, thundering Kjosfossen waterfall as she tries to lure menfolk into the forest. Not all of Norway’s curious folklore characters are quite so mischievous. Should you, for example, come across Fossegrimen – a spirit of the waterfalls with a talent for music – he might teach you how to play the fiddle… only if you offer him a nice  plump joint of meat in exchange, though. In reality, you’re more likely to encounter earthly creatures on your travels; the fjords are teeming with birdlife and the surrounding waters are home to playful seals and porpoises. Certainly, legends abound in Norway, yet one visit offers all the proof you need that no-one is more capable of magic than Mother Nature herself.

See for yourself…

See for yourself…

Crown Princess and Caribbean Princess will both be sailing to the Norwegian Fjords during 2013 on their 8, 12 and 14-night itineraries, with balconies starting from £1,099 per person.

Pacific Princess will be sailing to Odessa in 2013 on her 12-night Black Sea & Crimean Coasts cruise, with balconies starting from £1,979 per person.

Book now and make your cruise Book now and make your cruise 14 | PRINCESS CRUISES | SUMMER 2012

special!

special! NORWAY | PRINCESS CRUISES | 15

credits: 4 corners images / alamy

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ith its historic buildings, cosmopolitan culture and attractive setting, Odessa is an intriguing destination. This elegant Ukrainian city on the northwest shore of the Black Sea was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, the Russian Empress, on the site of an abandoned Ottoman fort. Since then, the Pearl of the Black Sea – as it is commonly known – has seen boom times, revolution and conflict. The city was bombarded during the Crimean War of 1853-1856 but soon recovered and is today a thriving, engaging city that is well worth taking the time to explore. Among Odessa’s many attractions is the array of architectural styles in its tree-lined streets and avenues, a legacy of its prosperity and fame in the 1800s. With everything from baroque and art nouveau to rococo and classical, interspersed with gleaming onion domes, there are photo opportunities everywhere. Highlights include the palace of Count Tolstoy, built for a relative of the famous writer; the palace of the Gagarin family, an opulent building used as a venue for concerts; and the fabulously ornate opera house. Perhaps the city’s most famous sight is the Potemkin Steps (officially the Primorsky Stairs) which had a starring role in the classic silent film

of the

drama Greek

Left The masks of tragedy and comedy symbolise what Greece gave to the world Above, from top the Herodes Atticus Theatre in Athens can still be seen today; Sophocles’s play Oedipus Rex hits the stage Below left A statue from the ancient site of Delos

There has been a lot of drama in Greek politics lately, says Mike Gerrard, but that’s hardly surprising as Greece gave drama to the rest of the world…

16 | PRINCESS CRUISES | GREECE

At that time, performances were purely songs to the gods, sung by a Greek chorus, but Thespis was the first to step out from the chorus and comment on what was happening. Theatres already existed in every major Greek city, and they were built in the open air. The seats banked steeply, to give everyone a good view, and the theatres were deep, semi-circular, and usually built into a hillside to help amplify the voices on stage. Then came the Golden Age, when all the arts flourished in Athens. This was when four writers revolutionised theatre. Aeschylus (c. 525-456BC) thought it would be more interesting to have a second character on stage, turning performances from dramatic monologues into drama with conflicts. Sophocles (c. 496-405BC) was the first to bring a third character onto the stage, and to play down the role of the chorus. Writing at roughly the same time was Euripides. His innovation? Characters who spoke natural rather than poetic dialogue. At first, only tragedy was seen as a fitting subject for the theatre, but it was also now that writers defied convention and began producing comedies and satires on society. Aristophanes (c. 450-385BC)

was the first to write a satire, and his later comedy, Lysistrata, is remembered for telling of the women who refused to make love to their husbands until the men stopped waging war. Many years later, Greece received a lesson in drama itself when settling Venetians brought opera with them to the island of Corfu – the centre of opera in Greece for many years – introducing this powerful form of musical theatre to the nation. There are reminders of Greece’s theatrical past all over, with some venues still hosting live events. From Mykonos, a trip to the island of Delos is essential. The whole island is an archaeological site, and its 4th-century BC theatre, one of the few to be built entirely of marble, is currently being restored. In Athens, the Herodes Atticus Odeon, built on the southern slope of the Acropolis c. 160AD, seats 5,000 people and is the most famous of the city’s ancient theatres, but the Herodeon (as it’s known) is actually predated by the nearby Theatre of Dionysus, which is open to the public. Visit today to see the mosaic floor added by Emperor Nero. Athens is home to some fascinating theatrical exhibitions too. Wander around the Museum and

Study Centre of the Greek Theatre (50 Akadimias Street) and immerse yourself with original costumes, props, actors’ belongings and much more besides. Or, for a quirkier look at Greece’s dramatic leanings, head to the Spathareion Museum of the Shadow Theatre at Kastalias Square for an introduction to the art of shadow puppetry. In many areas of Greece, the theatrical tradition flourishes, with contemporary groups still performing in modern venues. However, any time that you see a play performed in any theatre anywhere in the world, you really should think back to Thespis and that Golden Age of Athens, when drama was born.

Take it from me

See for yourself… Ruby Princess will be visiting Greece on her 12-night Greek Isles, 7-night Venetian Interlude and 7-night Greek Isles Interlude itineraries in 2013, with balconies starting from £1,079 per person.

Book now and make your cruise

“Look down over the wall on the south side of the Acropolis for an aerial view of the great Theatre of Herodes Atticus, then walk around the Theatre of Dionysus, which is right next door and open to the public. Seeing the restored and ruined theatres side by side gives a sense of what ancient Athens must have been like.” Helen Iatrou, a local journalist based in Athens

special! GREECE | PRINCESS CRUISES | 17

credits: getty images / alamy

Back in 5th-century BC Athens, in what’s known as the Age of Pericles, Greek writers first created the theatrical drama that we know today. The very word ‘drama’ is Greek for ‘action’, while the word ‘thespian’ comes from a Greek called Thespis, arguably the world’s first actor.

WIN

Where in the

world?

Travelogue

AN OLYM PUS

CAMERA !

Liz McClarnon

Recognise this landmark? Simply tell us which city this photograph was taken in and you could win a fantastic Olympus E-PM1 digital camera in silver. Small and light with interchangeable lenses, the E-PM1 offers professional-looking SLR-quality photography. To enter, email your answer, name, address and telephone number to [email protected] (with ‘Olympus’ in the subject line). Alternatively, pop the same details on the back of a postcard and post to the following address: Escape magazine, Princess Cruises, Carnival House, 100 Harbour Parade, Southampton SO15 1ST. The closing date for entry is 31 December 2012. See page 3 of this magazine for prize draw terms and conditions. For more details on the prize model, visit olympus.co.uk

Just for

Fun

Just like a regular crossword, but with no clues! Every letter in the alphabet has been replaced by a number. Decipher the words in the crossword to crack the code. Then, use the code to reveal the message beneath the grid, a quotation by Sir Francis Drake. The solution to the puzzle is at the bottom of this page.

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Clockwise from top Liz visits Sabatini’s trattoria-style Italian restaurant; enjoying a treatment at Lotus Spa; relaxing poolside

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Codeword solution: “It isn’t that life ashore is distasteful to me. But life at sea is better.” True or False answer: False, she was born in Brussels, Belgium

18 | PRINCESS CRUISES | PUZZLES

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I went on a Princess cruise with my best friend around the Med. We had a brilliant time but I’m sad to say we didn’t see much of Europe because we had too much fun on the ship. I didn’t realise there would be so much to do onboard. A beauty salon, fitness classes, a nightclub, outdoor movies… I just didn’t expect half of the things it had. To be honest, I imagined the rooms would be tiny because so many people had to fit on, but it was a totally luxurious experience. Everyone was happy – it was like the Stepford Wives cruise. The destinations we visited were all so different. Barcelona was great, we really enjoyed that, and Rome – wow! The staff onboard went out of their way to make you happy. Even as much as giving you an old family recipe for Limoncello. The food onboard was outstanding too (and that’s coming from a MasterChef !) – from pizza and fries to chateaubriand. I liked the buffet because the food quality was so good. Also, you could get late-night nachos with all the trimmings… yum, yum! Highlights of the cruise included the wine-tasting day, which was great. I had a beauty day too, including an outdoor massage – lovely. And the black tie night was über glam!

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credits: alamy

Crack the code!

Singer, presenter and MasterChef winner Liz McClarnon talks about formal-night fun, fabulous food and the rest of her onboard experience with Princess Cruises

TRAVELOGUE | PRINCESS CRUISES | 19

Waiting for Neptune, Rome By Heather Pierpoint Canon EOS 450D, macro lens I’ve always loved fountains and the ones in Rome are phenomenal, particularly those situated in Piazza Navona. The Neptune Fountain is the underdog of the square, often overlooked for its (admittedly spectacular) big brother, Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers. For 300 years, the Fontana del Nettuno stood incomplete, the statue of Neptune slaying a giant octopus surrounded by cherubs, nymphs and seahorses only being added some three centuries after the rose marble base was first created. If you ask me, it was worth the wait. headfudgedesign.co.uk

PC2578CCS

BEHIND THE LENS

Main image Festive figurines in Ferrigno’s workshop in Naples’ ‘Christmas Alley’ Opposite page, from top Products for sale at the ancient Santa Maria Novella pharmacy in Florence; Barcelona’s magic shop has been trading for 130 years; wooden Pinocchio toys are a popular souvenir from Rome and Florence

credits: alamy

Unique& Boutique Looking for the perfect souvenir? In even the most famous of Mediterranean cities, there are some hidden treasures waiting to be discovered, as Pip Jones illustrates…

06 | PRINCESS CRUISES | SUMMER 2012

What is a souvenir, really? It’s so much more than just an object upon a shelf. It’s a memory, a means by which you can re-live a day in time. One glance at a well-chosen memento, and the scents on the breeze, the faces you encountered, the sounds and flavours of a once-visited island or city, all come flooding back. Almost every place has its classic offerings – few people, for instance, must leave Pisa without their own miniature tower. But almost everywhere has its hidden gems too and, if you step beyond a city’s main shopping boulevards, you can discover some really rather unique treasures, both in terms of what you find and where you find them. Take the fascinating Officina Profumo Farmaceutica at Via della Scala in Florence. Situated in the unassuming (by this city’s standards, anyway) church of Santa Maria Novella, this ancient apothecary celebrates 400 years of continuous business in 2012. In fact, its origins lie back in the 13th century, when Dominican monks began to concoct herbal remedies here. Today, you can still purchase those traditional elixirs, as well as modern skincare products and deliciously scented perfumes. You might even take the time to wander around the little museum, which documents the history of the pharmacy, or the wonderfully aromatic herb garden. Naples is another city where tradition abounds, and one particular street, known as ‘Christmas Alley’, offers a truly unique shopping experience. Some of the families working here have been plying their trade on the cobbles of Via San Gregorio Armeno since the 1930s and, all year round, the artisans toil away at creating figurines for presepe nativity scenes. It might feel rather strange to see those festive little faces should you be visiting during the heat of the summer, but there are all sorts of other modern and quirky characters for sale, including politicians and other topical figures, and browsing for souvenirs and gifts is enormous fun. The wares in Boutique du Rocher on Avenue de la Madone in Monte Carlo are somewhat more varied and, in this city of such great riches, perhaps what makes this gift shop a real gem is its relatively reasonable prices! Away from all the designer labels of the famous Golden Circle, this sprawling store – considered a piece of local history – was opened by Princess Grace in the 1960s, and proceeds from sales go to good causes. Visitors can browse to their heart’s content as they choose from handcrafted frames and mirrors, embroidered tablecloths and colourful ceramics, enjoying the knowledge that their souvenirs have been purchased in the most glamorous charity shop in the world. You might find yourself at the receiving end of some generosity should you ever visit La Bottega del Marmoraro in Rome. Enrico Fiorentini, a man of advanced years, is a traditional marmoraro (an artisan working with marble) who reputedly loves nothing more than chatting to enthusiasts about his art – and he’s even been known to offer a dish of pasta to customers who happen to stop by when he’s cooking. His workshop, situated on Via Margutta – number 53B, just two doors down from Gregory Peck’s famous abode in Roman Holiday – is packed full of completed pieces, from busts and cherubs to small plaques that have already been inscribed with Roman quips but, for a very reasonable price, Fiorentini will etch a few words of your choosing. Making words appear on marble is one thing, but you could soon be making things disappear if you visit El Rey de la Màgia on Carrer de la Princesa in Barcelona – one of the oldest magic shops in the world. Having experienced Las Ramblas (and you must, it is a market like no other) and La Boqueria (a flower market offering an unmissable sensory experience), veer away from the main drag, towards El Born, to discover this 130-year-old store’s fascinating array of conjuring curiosities. From humble packs of playing cards to magic boxes and manuals for the more adventurous, there is plenty here to amuse – the assistants may even give you a demonstration if you ask. For more inspiration on spellbinding tricks to master, the nearby Teatre Museu stages regular magic shows. Of course, a great souvenir needn’t come in the shape of a top hat or a white rabbit to be magical – every place has at least one hidden treasure up its sleeve, and part of the fun is in discovering it.

Take it from me “After visiting the glorious Trevi Fountain, wander the streets surrounding it. On my first ever visit to the Eternal City, I did just that, and stumbled across a wonderful little toy shop, its window packed full of brightly painted wooden mobiles, whirring clockwork toys and decadent swirling carousels. Assisted by the Italian shopkeeper – a warm, homely woman who was delighted to discover that I was expecting a baby – I left with a lovely set of stacking rings (topped with a little wooden Pinocchio figure), a gift for my unborn child and the perfect reminder of our first visit to Rome.” Annie Sands, a photographer based in Rome

See for yourself… Crown Princess will be sailing roundtrip from Southampton to all the cities mentioned in this feature on her 14-night Mediterranean Medley cruise in 2013, with balconies starting from £1,749 per person. Alternatively enjoy a 12-night Grand Mediterranean cruise on Royal Princess’s maiden season. To see more of the Mediterranean, check out Crown Princess’s 17-night Mediterranean & Adriatic cruise.

Book now and make your cruise

special!

MEDITERRANEAN | PRINCESS CRUISES | 07

Main image The volcanic vineyards of La Geria on Lanzarote Inset images, from top Mount Teide adds drama to the landscape of Tenerife; Gran Granaria’s landscape varies from the lush northeast to the dunes of Maspalomas in the south Bottom right Canarian wines even courted praise from the great playwright William Shakespeare

Main image The famous Elephant Gate at the Carlsberg factory Insets, from left the Gefion Fountain was erected to celebrate Carlsberg’s 50th birthday; The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Bottom left The Little Mermaid statue was a gift to Copenhagen

Vino de la tierra

If made cities…

The diverse landscapes of the Canary Islands make for some outstanding wines – and some magical memories too, says Claire Gervat

Copenhagen is most famous for two things – Carlsberg lager and the statue of The Little Mermaid. But not every visitor knows the connection between the two, says Adrian Mourby

08 | PRINCESS CRUISES | COPENHAGEN

a statue in Rome. Visitors to the brewery today may notice that each of the elephants sports the initial of one of Carl’s children: Theodora, Paula, Helge and Vagn. One of Carl’s final gifts to Copenhagen came when he commissioned sculptor Edvard Eriksen to create a bronze statue of The Little Mermaid, which resides on Langelinie waterfront. Jacobsen had become fascinated by Hans Christian Andersen’s story after seeing it as a ballet at the Royal Theatre. Prima ballerina Ellen Price reportedly posed for the head but refused to model naked for the body of the sculpture that would become the defining landmark of the city – that honour went to the artist’s wife. Indeed, the legacy of the Jacobsens stretches far beyond the buildings that bear the Carlsberg name. The Church of Jesus (the family’s final resting place), the Gefion Fountain, the Botanic Garden and countless other projects in Copenhagen have all received donations of one kind or another from the Carlsberg empire. This Danish family not only turned brewing into a science – they turned the profits into art.

See for yourself… Emerald Princess will sail roundtrip from Copenhagen on her 11-night Scandinavia & Russia cruises during 2013, with balconies from £1,795 per person.

Book now and make your cruise

special!

See for yourself… Crown Princess will sail on 11 and 12-night Canary Islands itineraries in 2013, with balconies starting from £1,449 per person. credits: alamy / 4 corners images

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arlsberg was founded by Jacob Christian Jacobsen in 1847 as the first industrialised brewery in Denmark. Jacobsen named the venture after his son Carl, and it was Carl who in 1913 donated the statue of The Little Mermaid, as one of a number of gifts the Jacobsen family has given to the city of Copenhagen. JC Jacobsen was not only a businessman. He was also a philanthropist and art collector. When Frederiksborg Palace, 40km north of Copenhagen, was badly fire-damaged in 1859, he paid for much of the restoration and funded a museum of national history that now occupies the palace. Jacob and his son were estranged for much of Carl’s adult life – only reconciling a year before JC’s death – after a series of disagreements over the breweries. The elder Jacobsen wanted to keep Carlsberg at a size he could supervise himself, while Carl had plans for expansion; they also disagreed on issues of pricing, storage and marketing. However, Carl did share his father’s passion for art and became an even more prolific collector. In 1882, he endowed the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, which today contains more than 10,000 works of art, including antique sculpture from Egypt, Rome and Greece and a collection of 19thcentury Danish art. The current Glyptotek buildings in Dante Square, opened in 1906, are works of art in their own right. Carl commissioned art too, including the famous Elephant Gate that guards the entrance to the ‘new’ Carlsberg factory, inspired by

Book now and make your cruise special!

Of all the Canary Islands’ wine-making areas, none is quite as otherworldly as La Geria on Lanzarote, a starkly beautiful place in the shadow of the bleak Fire Mountains. Its vineyards are like none I’ve ever seen, each vine a splash of green in its own small crater in a sea of tiny black volcanic pebbles called picón, and protected from the wind by a low C-shaped wall. It looks as if hundreds of horseshoes have been thrown across the stony fields. On my first visit to Lanzarote, I spent several fascinating hours at El Grifo winery in Masdache, the Canary Islands’ oldest. Its bodega, or wine shop, is one of several just off the narrow scratch of a road that runs through the middle of La Geria. I sat on the terrace with a friend, a glass of crisp white wine and a plate of local cured ham and cheese to share, gazing out at the haunting scenery. There have been many more visits since, each one giving me a chance to try another variety: red, rosé, sparkling or honeyed, all equally delicious. Tenerife is also known for its wines, and I became an instant expert after a stop at Casa del Vino La Baranda in El Sauzal, a traditional country estate surrounded by vineyards in the island’s verdant north. In its information-packed museum, I learned about everything from how viticulture first came to the islands to the evocative names of Tenerife’s wine-making districts. I love the glorious

scenery on the vineyard tour, especially on clear days when the towering peak of Mount Teide makes a suitably dramatic backdrop to the rolling hills draped with serried rows of vines. I’m always amazed by Gran Canaria’s sheer variety of landscapes and microclimates. The visitors who flock to its south-coast beaches would be surprised to learn that Gran Canaria has 61 vineyards, mainly in the lush northeast. I’ve found the best way to appreciate them is at the island’s cellars – almost all have tasting facilities. The road to the impressive Caldera de Bandama, a long-extinct volcano, has several bodegas along it and amazing views of the north, east and mountainous west. I’ve visited these beautiful islands many times, but nothing can beat the simple perfection of sipping a glass of wine from a newly discovered vineyard while gazing out at the extraordinary landscapes that cultivated it.

CANARY ISLANDS | PRINCESS CRUISES | 09

Dark and thrilling, Scandinavian fiction is everywhere at the moment, steadily taking over our bookshelves, TVs and the big screen. What is it about this corner of the world that has captured our imaginations? Adrian Mourby investigates…

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rime has recently become Scandinavia’s biggest export since IKEA. Certainly, if Henning Mankell’s Wallander is to be believed, the town of Ystad is an even more dangerous place to live than Inspector Morse’s Oxford. If you’re feeling brave, and have time to spare in Copenhagen, you might like to jump on a train and find out for yourself – this quaint Swedish town, all cobblestone streets and medieval charm, is just over an hour away from the Danish capital. Follow in the footsteps of Wallander with a walking tour of the city; you can even take a concept tour and try to solve some of his famous mysteries. Further up the coast, Stockholm is the main location for Stieg Larsson’s bestselling Millennium Trilogy, which was turned into three Swedish films, a six-part mini-series and the Hollywood movie The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Filmed largely on the island of Södermalm, often described as the Brooklyn of Stockholm, a visit to this bohemian district might throw up some familiar sights – lead character Mikael Blomkvist’s regular café, Mellqvists Kaffebar (also Stieg Larsson’s real-life favourite) on Hornsgatan and Salvation tattoo parlour on Sankt Paulsgatan among them. As well as the movies and the scores of novels that are published each year, on TV screens too audiences are being enthralled by ScandiNoire. The Danish TV series The Killing (no prizes for guessing its subject matter) was such a popular export that it earned the dubious honour of a US remake, while crime drama The Bridge – named after the Øresund, the bridge that joins Denmark and Sweden – debuted with more than a million viewers when it first aired on BBC4. Why is this? The truth is that Nordisk krimi (Nordic crime fiction) really began as a genre in the 1960s and 70s, with the Martin Beck series of crime novels by Per Wahlöö and Maj Sjöwall, which dwelt as much

10 | PRINCESS CRUISES | SCANDINAVIA

on the shortcomings of Swedish society as the procedures of solving murder. Henning Mankell’s Wallander novels were the first to attract a big international following – indeed, Mankell has now sold more than 40 million books worldwide – but they too dealt as much with Wallander’s relationships as the crimes he attempts to clear up. In the wake of Wallander came Ake Edwardson’s Erik Winter, Helene Tursten’s Irene Huss, Jo Nesbø’s Harry Hole, and many more besides. In all these novels, the personal life of the investigator is balanced against bleak stories of human degradation and criminality. Perhaps it shouldn’t be surprising that the very north of Europe has produced such powerful personal dramas. Norway created Henrik Ibsen, one of the greatest dramatists of the individual versus society, while Sweden produced August Strindberg, one of the greatest dramatists of the interior mind. Sweden also gave us Ingmar Bergman, who carried both these Nordic sensibilities into film. The Scandinavian crime novel and its screen spin-off simply continue this tradition, with apparently insoluble crimes providing the hook to lure a reader in. Perhaps the scenery of the region, too, plays its part in inspiring these works of fiction. The pristine stillness of Norway’s fjords, the quiet-flowing rivers of Sweden, the vast polder landscape of Denmark, and the endless sky presiding above it all, are good places for writers – and their detectives – to reflect on good and evil, to examine the complexity of human nature. For travellers passing through the Baltic Sea, the landscapes before us do not represent desperate criminality and bungling law enforcement, but places for introspection and, ultimately, escape. As Henning Mankell says, “Wallander is sometimes longing to be somewhere else, far away from all the misery. Just as we all can do every now and then.”

See for yourself… Crown Princess and Ocean Princess will both visit Scandinavia in 2013 on their 14-night Baltic cruises, with balconies starting from £2,049 per person. Main image Stockholm, setting for many ScandiNoire thrillers Inset, from left Novels from Stieg Larsson and Henning Mankell, Danish TV series The Killing and Swedish movie The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo

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special!

SCANDINAVIA | PRINCESS CRUISES | 11

credits: 4 corners images / alamy

SCANDI NOIRE

Take it from me

“Fridolfs, situated on Lingsgatan in Ystad, is Wallander’s favourite café, an unremarkable building, as well known for its police-blue Wallander pastries as its herring sandwiches. Fridolfs was opened in 1938 by a baker called Fridolf Mårtensson and has been sold on many times. One of the owners, Helen Power, invented the Wallander pastry in 2004 but Mr Menkell tried to ban it. So Fridolfs got permission from a local family named Wallander who testified that the café sold it in their name. That’s why you can still buy Wallander pastries here.” Michel Eriksson, Fridolfs

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Have you ever wondered where you can find the classiest cocktails or the most spectacular scenery? From sweet treats in Turkey to macabre monuments in Egypt, Tracy Keen offers our roundup of top travel experiences…

A memorable lunch The Dubrovnik riviera in Croatia, where fabulous food goes hand in hand with sensational scenery. Take in mesmerising views of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s Old Town from the terraces at Nautika, as you enjoy the finest fresh seafood – the lobster from nearby Vis is highly recommended – and a chilled glass of locally produced Malvasija wine. If shellfish is your thing, and you have a little time to spare, head along the coast to Ston, where you’ll find the best oysters in Croatia.

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ALSO EXCELLENT Noma in Copenhagen, a Michelin-starred extravaganza of Nordic cuisine, set in an old warehouse on the waterfront at Christianshavn.

Sweet souvenirs Kusadasi in Turkey may be the gateway to the historic site of Ephesus, but it’s also the ideal place to pick up some sweet treats on your travels. Baklava is one of Turkey’s signature delicacies and Antepli Et Lokantasi & Tatli in Kusadasi offers a delectable selection to take away. Sticky golden morsels made from delicate layered filo pastry glazed with honey or syrup and filled or topped with nuts – pistachios and walnuts typically – a helping of authentic baklava makes the sweetest of souvenirs.

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Exploring your dark side

ALSO EXCELLENT Bruges, where some of the world’s finest chocolatiers work their magic and package it up in tempting mouthfuls of chocolaty perfection.

If you are mesmerised by the macabre, Alexandria is definitely the destination for you. It’s easy to forget that most Egyptian pyramids were actually built as tombs, elaborate final resting places created for Pharaohs and their consorts. Add to this the Catacombs of Kom El-Shouqafa, Sakkara burial ground and the tomb of King Tutankhamen and you have the makings for a very deathly day out.

Special scenery

ALSO EXCELLENT The Capuchin Crypt in Rome, set beneath Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini church, where the bones of 4,000 bodies (believed to be Capuchin friars) are on display.

Iceland offers scenery so stunning that it really has to be seen to be believed, with the region surrounding its capital Reykjavík the finest showcase of its spectacular natural wonders. From the simple magnificence of the Gullfoss Waterfall to the eerie luminosity of the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, via awesome spurting geysers, super-heated mud pools and breathtaking volcanoes, this region really is an exhibition of Mother Nature’s finest work. ALSO EXCELLENT The mountainous island of Corsica, which boasts picturesque villages, impressive rock formations, great gorges and one of the most beautiful coastlines in the Mediterranean.

Living the high life

The Sky Bar in Fl orence is the ult imate viewpoint in a city made for sightseeing . Set on the uppermost floor of the medieval Conso rti Tower near the Ponte Vecchio, this is where well-h eeled locals and passing visitors stop for a drink, som e sushi or an open-air yoga class. Join them and you’l l also enjoy incredible views of the River Arno, Br unelleschi’s dome, the Palazzo Vecchio and much more besides. ALSO EXCELLEN T 360 in Istanb ul, a restaurant that off ers a fabulous lunch menu and even more exquisit e 360-degree views of the city.

See for yourself… The Princess Cruises fleet will be visiting all destinations mentioned in this feature during our Mediterranean & Scandinavia 2013 programme.

Book now and make your cruise

12 | PRINCESS CRUISES | SIMPLY THE BEST

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credits: alamy

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Main image An example of Odessa’s Parisian-inspired architecture Inset images, from left Odessa’s opulent Opera & Ballet House; The Twelve Chairs monument sits in the City Garden Bottom left The famous Potemkin Steps

Odessa All about

legendfalls

Beautiful Mediterranean-style sandy beaches, Parisian café culture and historic landmarks make Odessa a wonderful place to while away a day, as Claire Gervat explains… Battleship Potemkin, made to celebrate the 1905 mutiny of sailors against their Tsarist officers. Built by Odessa’s governor Prince Vorontsov as a present to his wife, it originally had 200 steps, though the sharp-eyed will notice that it now has just 192. All the same, it still makes a spectacular entrance to Odessa from the port, the vast staircase forming the illusion of a pyramid for those standing at the bottom. Once you’ve seen the main sights, there are plenty of reasons to stay and soak up the atmosphere. Odessa’s subtropical climate helped it to become a popular spa resort in the 19th century, and this balmy weather draws people to its long sandy beaches today, a rarity on Ukraine’s generally pebbly south coast. Away from the beach, the lush City Garden on Deribasovskaya Street is a popular meeting spot for locals and an atmospheric place to peoplewatch. There are also plenty of cafés and restaurants, as well as an array of shops, along this street, the city’s delightfully bustling hub. Spare some time to wander down the covered arcade known as Passage at the City Garden end; its architecture and sculptures give it a unique, if slightly crumbling, charm – a perfect epithet, in fact, for the entire wonderful city.

Norway’s majestic beauty is the stuff of legends and, as Pip Jones explains, it’s easy to see why… Main image The magnificent Geirangerfjord Inset image The Seven Sisters waterfall Below According to folklore, trolls helped to sculpt Norway’s rugged but beautiful landscape

There are some places so breathtaking, otherworldly even, that we mortals feel compelled to look to the supernatural to help explain their existence. It’s unsurprising then that the magnificent fjords of Norway – where every bend seemingly reveals a more bewitching sight – are so steeped in myth and legend. Norwegians are renowned for telling folk tales and, embellished through the centuries, each one adds a sparkle of the unknown to places so beautiful they must be seen to be believed. Indeed, legend has it that magic played its part in shaping the landscape itself; the Dalsnibba mountain plateau, towering almost 1,500m above the pristine waters of Geirangerfjord, is dotted with calcified ‘trolls’, said to have turned to stone when they stepped into the sunlight. With its vast cliff faces, densely forested hillsides, glacial views and tumbling waterfalls, Geirangerfjord is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most stunning places on the planet, it’s also the setting for one of Norway’s best-known legends – that of the opposing falls, the Seven Sisters and their Suitor. As one version of the story goes, a man who was entranced by seven unmarried beauties foolishly asked each of them to be his bride. Rejected by every

one, his destiny was to be tormented by them forever, watching them frolic and dance down the cliff face on the other side of the fjord. The sisters are not the only legendary beings said to find their fun in the torment of young men. Travelling down Sognefjord, the longest and deepest fjord in Norway, you might hear, across the perfect still air, the alluring song of underworld temptress Huldra. Some say that she resides behind the spectacular, thundering Kjosfossen waterfall as she tries to lure menfolk into the forest. Not all of Norway’s curious folklore characters are quite so mischievous. Should you, for example, come across Fossegrimen – a spirit of the waterfalls with a talent for music – he might teach you how to play the fiddle… only if you offer him a nice  plump joint of meat in exchange, though. In reality, you’re more likely to encounter earthly creatures on your travels; the fjords are teeming with birdlife and the surrounding waters are home to playful seals and porpoises. Certainly, legends abound in Norway, yet one visit offers all the proof you need that no-one is more capable of magic than Mother Nature herself.

See for yourself…

See for yourself…

Crown Princess and Caribbean Princess will both be sailing to the Norwegian Fjords during 2013 on their 8, 12 and 14-night itineraries, with balconies starting from £1,099 per person.

Pacific Princess will be sailing to Odessa in 2013 on her 12-night Black Sea & Crimean Coasts cruise, with balconies starting from £1,979 per person.

Book now and make your cruise Book now and make your cruise 14 | PRINCESS CRUISES | SUMMER 2012

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W

ith its historic buildings, cosmopolitan culture and attractive setting, Odessa is an intriguing destination. This elegant Ukrainian city on the northwest shore of the Black Sea was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, the Russian Empress, on the site of an abandoned Ottoman fort. Since then, the Pearl of the Black Sea – as it is commonly known – has seen boom times, revolution and conflict. The city was bombarded during the Crimean War of 1853-1856 but soon recovered and is today a thriving, engaging city that is well worth taking the time to explore. Among Odessa’s many attractions is the array of architectural styles in its tree-lined streets and avenues, a legacy of its prosperity and fame in the 1800s. With everything from baroque and art nouveau to rococo and classical, interspersed with gleaming onion domes, there are photo opportunities everywhere. Highlights include the palace of Count Tolstoy, built for a relative of the famous writer; the palace of the Gagarin family, an opulent building used as a venue for concerts; and the fabulously ornate opera house. Perhaps the city’s most famous sight is the Potemkin Steps (officially the Primorsky Stairs) which had a starring role in the classic silent film

of the

drama Greek

Left The masks of tragedy and comedy symbolise what Greece gave to the world Above, from top the Herodes Atticus Theatre in Athens can still be seen today; Sophocles’s play Oedipus Rex hits the stage Below left A statue from the ancient site of Delos

There has been a lot of drama in Greek politics lately, says Mike Gerrard, but that’s hardly surprising as Greece gave drama to the rest of the world…

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At that time, performances were purely songs to the gods, sung by a Greek chorus, but Thespis was the first to step out from the chorus and comment on what was happening. Theatres already existed in every major Greek city, and they were built in the open air. The seats banked steeply, to give everyone a good view, and the theatres were deep, semi-circular, and usually built into a hillside to help amplify the voices on stage. Then came the Golden Age, when all the arts flourished in Athens. This was when four writers revolutionised theatre. Aeschylus (c. 525-456BC) thought it would be more interesting to have a second character on stage, turning performances from dramatic monologues into drama with conflicts. Sophocles (c. 496-405BC) was the first to bring a third character onto the stage, and to play down the role of the chorus. Writing at roughly the same time was Euripides. His innovation? Characters who spoke natural rather than poetic dialogue. At first, only tragedy was seen as a fitting subject for the theatre, but it was also now that writers defied convention and began producing comedies and satires on society. Aristophanes (c. 450-385BC)

was the first to write a satire, and his later comedy, Lysistrata, is remembered for telling of the women who refused to make love to their husbands until the men stopped waging war. Many years later, Greece received a lesson in drama itself when settling Venetians brought opera with them to the island of Corfu – the centre of opera in Greece for many years – introducing this powerful form of musical theatre to the nation. There are reminders of Greece’s theatrical past all over, with some venues still hosting live events. From Mykonos, a trip to the island of Delos is essential. The whole island is an archaeological site, and its 4th-century BC theatre, one of the few to be built entirely of marble, is currently being restored. In Athens, the Herodes Atticus Odeon, built on the southern slope of the Acropolis c. 160AD, seats 5,000 people and is the most famous of the city’s ancient theatres, but the Herodeon (as it’s known) is actually predated by the nearby Theatre of Dionysus, which is open to the public. Visit today to see the mosaic floor added by Emperor Nero. Athens is home to some fascinating theatrical exhibitions too. Wander around the Museum and

Study Centre of the Greek Theatre (50 Akadimias Street) and immerse yourself with original costumes, props, actors’ belongings and much more besides. Or, for a quirkier look at Greece’s dramatic leanings, head to the Spathareion Museum of the Shadow Theatre at Kastalias Square for an introduction to the art of shadow puppetry. In many areas of Greece, the theatrical tradition flourishes, with contemporary groups still performing in modern venues. However, any time that you see a play performed in any theatre anywhere in the world, you really should think back to Thespis and that Golden Age of Athens, when drama was born.

Take it from me

See for yourself… Ruby Princess will be visiting Greece on her 12-night Greek Isles, 7-night Venetian Interlude and 7-night Greek Isles Interlude itineraries in 2013, with balconies starting from £1,079 per person.

Book now and make your cruise

“Look down over the wall on the south side of the Acropolis for an aerial view of the great Theatre of Herodes Atticus, then walk around the Theatre of Dionysus, which is right next door and open to the public. Seeing the restored and ruined theatres side by side gives a sense of what ancient Athens must have been like.” Helen Iatrou, a local journalist based in Athens

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credits: getty images / alamy

Back in 5th-century BC Athens, in what’s known as the Age of Pericles, Greek writers first created the theatrical drama that we know today. The very word ‘drama’ is Greek for ‘action’, while the word ‘thespian’ comes from a Greek called Thespis, arguably the world’s first actor.

WIN

Where in the

world?

Travelogue

AN OLYM PUS

CAMERA !

Liz McClarnon

Recognise this landmark? Simply tell us which city this photograph was taken in and you could win a fantastic Olympus E-PM1 digital camera in silver. Small and light with interchangeable lenses, the E-PM1 offers professional-looking SLR-quality photography. To enter, email your answer, name, address and telephone number to [email protected] (with ‘Olympus’ in the subject line). Alternatively, pop the same details on the back of a postcard and post to the following address: Escape magazine, Princess Cruises, Carnival House, 100 Harbour Parade, Southampton SO15 1ST. The closing date for entry is 31 December 2012. See page 3 of this magazine for prize draw terms and conditions. For more details on the prize model, visit olympus.co.uk

Just for

Fun

Just like a regular crossword, but with no clues! Every letter in the alphabet has been replaced by a number. Decipher the words in the crossword to crack the code. Then, use the code to reveal the message beneath the grid, a quotation by Sir Francis Drake. The solution to the puzzle is at the bottom of this page.

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Clockwise from top Liz visits Sabatini’s trattoria-style Italian restaurant; enjoying a treatment at Lotus Spa; relaxing poolside

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Codeword solution: “It isn’t that life ashore is distasteful to me. But life at sea is better.” True or False answer: False, she was born in Brussels, Belgium

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I went on a Princess cruise with my best friend around the Med. We had a brilliant time but I’m sad to say we didn’t see much of Europe because we had too much fun on the ship. I didn’t realise there would be so much to do onboard. A beauty salon, fitness classes, a nightclub, outdoor movies… I just didn’t expect half of the things it had. To be honest, I imagined the rooms would be tiny because so many people had to fit on, but it was a totally luxurious experience. Everyone was happy – it was like the Stepford Wives cruise. The destinations we visited were all so different. Barcelona was great, we really enjoyed that, and Rome – wow! The staff onboard went out of their way to make you happy. Even as much as giving you an old family recipe for Limoncello. The food onboard was outstanding too (and that’s coming from a MasterChef !) – from pizza and fries to chateaubriand. I liked the buffet because the food quality was so good. Also, you could get late-night nachos with all the trimmings… yum, yum! Highlights of the cruise included the wine-tasting day, which was great. I had a beauty day too, including an outdoor massage – lovely. And the black tie night was über glam!

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credits: alamy

Crack the code!

Singer, presenter and MasterChef winner Liz McClarnon talks about formal-night fun, fabulous food and the rest of her onboard experience with Princess Cruises

TRAVELOGUE | PRINCESS CRUISES | 19

Waiting for Neptune, Rome By Heather Pierpoint Canon EOS 450D, macro lens I’ve always loved fountains and the ones in Rome are phenomenal, particularly those situated in Piazza Navona. The Neptune Fountain is the underdog of the square, often overlooked for its (admittedly spectacular) big brother, Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers. For 300 years, the Fontana del Nettuno stood incomplete, the statue of Neptune slaying a giant octopus surrounded by cherubs, nymphs and seahorses only being added some three centuries after the rose marble base was first created. If you ask me, it was worth the wait. headfudgedesign.co.uk

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