Program Plus Instruction Manual
PLEASE READ THIS PAGE CAREFULLY This information is provided as a guide only. It is intended to show the recommended method in which Program Plus standard portal framed buildings are constructed. It is expected that the builder erecting the structure is trade qualified and experienced with erecting portal framed buildings. As each building is supplied and designed specifically for each site this installation manual is not written to suit all designs. For this exercise this manual details the construction of a gable garage. It would be expected that an experienced person would be able to construct a building of a different size and design based on the instructions provided in this booklet. This guideline should be used in conjunction with the structural engineering drawings as provided to council along with site specific bill of materials provided to the customer at the time of delivery. This information is not, and should not be used as a construction manual, Safety Manual, Standard Operating procedure or material Safety Data Sheet. It is important to be aware of the following: Before erecting your building, please check that all local government requirements such as Building Applications and Development Applications are adhered to. If you are constructing your own building check with the Department of Fair Trading or State Building Authority to qualify if you require an Owners Building Permit. If you are contracting a trade’s person to erect your building, check with your State Building Authority to qualify if they need to be licensed. If a license is required ask to see a current copy and also check that all the builders’ insurances policies are current. It is of the utmost importance to follow all safety recommendations of the Workcover Authority. Do not work on the building or walk on the roof sheeting in damp or frosty conditions. Remember when erecting your building in your backyard it becomes a worksite. Always ensure that anyone on the worksite conducts themselves in a manner according to the requirements of the Workcover Authority.
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General notes
4
Structure components
7
General Shed Terms
13
Small Accessory Items
14
Roofing and Wall Cladding Profiles
15
Gutter Profiles and accessories
16
Site Preparation
18
Slab and Reinforced Footing Beam Layout
18
Footing layout
19
Setting Out the Hold Down Base Plates
20
Portal Frame Assembly
22
Construction Bracing
24
Portal Frame Erection
25
Purlins and Girts
26
Roof Purlins when supplied “C” & “Z” sections
27
Wall Girts when supplied 64mm Tophat Sections
27
Wall Girts when supplied “C” & “Z” Sections
27
End Wall Girts
28
Fly Bracing
28
Cross Bracing
28
Fitting Trim Angle to Raking Girts
29
Skillions Portal Frame Connection to Main Gable Frame
29
Roller Door Side Wall Mullion Assembly
30
Roller Door End Wall Insertion
31
Roofing & Wall Sheeting
36
End Wall Sheeting
38
Barge Capping
39
Ridge Cap
40
Trims
40
Corner Trims
40
Fitment of Gutters
40
Roller Door Installation
42
Personnel Aaccess Door Installation
46
Window Assembly
52
Sliding Track & Door Assembly
56
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Program Plus Instruction Manual
General notes Program Plus Building Designs are fully engineered and must be constructed utilising the Bill Of Materials, Engineered Drawings and this Instruction Manual. It is important to read and understand all of these documents in their entirety prior to commencing any work on the building. This includes identifying all structural sections, fixings, brackets, plates, strapping, screw bolts, guttering, sheeting and custom made flashing materials. Please confirm with your salesperson that the erection plans and Bill of Materials are current with the products supplied. Older plans will be outdated and unsuitable for the construction of your building.
Documents Required Please ensure that you have received all of the following documents prior to commencement. Without the following documents it will be difficult to construct your building. • • • • • •
Copy of building approval from your local authority. Relevant state engineers certification certificate Copy of Program Plus Pty Ltd Structural Engineering Certified Drawings to construct the building. Structural Engineering Report. Detailed Foundation Engineering Report Copy of the Bill of Materials.
Sample Copy of Engineers Building Certification for your local council
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Sample Copy of certified engineering drawings applicable for your building
Sample Copy of Bill of Materials.
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Sample Hold Down Bolt Set-Out Plan/ Slab Foundation Pages
Please note the use of an asterisk ( * ) is standard throughout this manual and indicates a numerical value such a section size, bracket size or mark number of a component as per your certified erection drawings. (e.g. MV*** may indicate the use of a C250 vertical mullion or PLBASE*** may indicate PLBASE100 is to be used.)
Please refer to your Bill of materials and the certified drawings for your shed’s specific requirements.
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A competent person is required to construct this building from this manual and erection drawings which provides the relevant information to do so. Construction bracing is critical when erecting the framing as it ensures the framing will withstand the usual forces encountered during all stages of construction. Portals cannot be relied upon to remain standing during the construction process using column base plates alone. Relying on column base plates without using the recommended construction bracing could result with the frame collapsing. The addition of roof and wall sheeting to the structure provides stability and structural support to the building once it has been completely erected. Therefore this bracing needs to be substituted during the construction process with suitable supports (Acro props under portal frame apex plates) until the building is completely erected.
Checking the Bill of Materials (BOM) The Bill of Materials (manufacturers Delivery Advice) should be qualified within 24 hours of delivery. Any missing items after that period will become the responsibility of the owner. It is important to locate and check lengths and sizes, thickness, colours and quantities of all products within the BOM against what has been supplied. The BOM has a stock description, quantity and length/unit column which is clearly labelled under each stock category. All major structural products are labelled/marked in accordance with the BOM, these will include purlins, girts, top hat sections and plates for connections.
Structure components (1) Left & Right Hand Eaves Girt Brackets- Connects the eave fascia purlin to the top of the column utilizing 2 flanged head structural purlin bolts. (2) Left & Right Hand Haunch Plates - connect the rafters to the columns. (3) Apex Plate- Joins the rafters together at the centerline of the roof. (4) End Column to Rafter Plate (sometimes known as smiley plates) - connect the end wall columns to the end wall rafter. (5) Extended Roller Door Mullion plate- Connect the header mullion to the open flange of a column. (6) Column Base Plate-Connect the column to the footing or concrete slab. (7) Left & Right Hand Inverted Haunch Plate- Connects the column to a rafter either in a skillion carport or side skillion design of a main gable shed. (8) Roller Door Support Bracket Type “A”- is screwed to the vertical roller door mullion that runs from floor level to rafter, positioned to mount the roller door brackets that supports the roller door drum axle. (9) Roller Door Support Bracket Type “C” - used when the horizontal roller door mullion is fixed between 2 main building portals and/or an end wall column. This bracket straddles over the horizontal mullion and is fixed to the front and rear of the left and right vertical door mullion with 8 Tek® screws. (10) Roller Door Mullion Brackets - used to join the horizontal and vertical door mullions.
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General Shed Terms
1. Apex Plate - Joins the two opposing rafters together and is the highest point of the shed portal frame 2. Haunch Plate/ Knee plate - Joins the roof opposing side rafters to opposing side columns to complete portal frame. 3. Roller Door Vertical Mullions and Header - Join to make roller door surrounds and connect to the main portal frame to support the roller door assembly. 4. Column Base plate - Connects the portal frame to the foundation. 5. Intermediate Column - Supports and joins the centre intermediate rafters. 6. Wall Girts -This connects the wall sheets to the portal frames. Wall girts run along the length of the structure and are fixed to the frame. This section is normally 64mm top hats for small bay spacing’s or “Z” sections used in larger bay spacing’s. 7. End Wall Girts- This connects the wall sheets to the end wall columns. End wall girts run across the width of the structure fixed to the frame with Teks® screw for 64mm top hat girts or 12mm flanged structural bolts and nuts for “Z” section girts. This section is normally 64mm tophats for small bay spacing’s or “Z” sections used in larger bay spacing’s. 8. Fascia Eave Girt Purlin - These sections fix the wall sheets to the roof sheets. Connects to the upper column with 2 structural engineering bolts and nuts. 9. Roof Purlin - This connects the roof sheeting to the portal frame. Roof purlins run along the entire length of the structure fixed to the frame with Tek® screws for 64mm top hat girts or 12mm flanged structural bolts and nuts for “Z” section girts. This section is normally 64mm top hats for small bay spacing’s or “Z” sections used in larger bay spacing’s. 10. End Wall Columns - Used to support the end wall rafters and end wall girts. The column is typically “C” section connected to the rafter with a column to rafter plate (smiley plate) and a base plate to the foundation. 11. PA Door - Is the terminology for a Personnel Access Door. 12. Fly Bracing - Steel pre-bent strapping that ties Purlin and Girts to the Portal Frame and End Wall Columns
13. Strap Bracing - Thin steel strap used to diagonally tension Portal Framing, particularly during construction. Generally supplied on a roll and is fixed in both roof and walls with Tek® screws. Typically required on buildings over 3 bays in length.
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Small Accessory Items Teks® Screws, different length Teks® screws are used for different applications. This Screw has no neoprene washers to the underside of the hex head, generally used internally for the frame:
1. Roofing Teks® screws with Neoprene washer fitted to the underside of the head, used for fixing roof and wall sheeting.
2. Wall Teks® screws are used to pan fixed wall sheeting to girt.
3. Wafer Head screws are used for attaching the gutter general purpose bracket to the fascia purlin.
4.
Cyclonic Assembly Tek® screws are used to screw roofing and walling required by local governing authorities to meet cyclonic wind conditions.
5. Flanged purlin bolts connect the base plates to columns, Haunch and Apex plates, purlins and girts to main portal frames.
6. Rivets, small fastener used to fasten gutter stop ends, guttering and downpipes.
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Roofing and Wall Cladding Profiles 1. Trimclad® Roofing and Wall Sheeting
2. Corodek® Roofing and Wall Sheeting
3. Metroclad® Wall Sheeting
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Gutter Profiles and accessories 1. Metroline® Square Gutter
2. Metroline® Square Gutter General Purpose Bracket
3. Metroline ® Square Gutter Stop End
4. Quad Gutter
5. Quad Gutter General Purpose Bracket
6. Quad Gutter Stop End
7. Downpipe drops or commonly known as pops connect the gutter to the downpipe
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Tools Required 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22.
Extension and step ladder Extension leads Reversible drill Spirit level String Lines Tape Measure (long enough for your job) Concrete Hammer Drill Set out pegs Drill bits for concrete (eg. 12mm or 16mm depending on hold down bolts) Electric Drill (at least half inch chuck) Good rope and star pickets to help brace frame Tin snips (left and right handed) Nibbler or shears to cut openings Spanners and general hand tools Wood saw One piece 4" x 2" timber at about 300mm long (for damming sheets) Tek screw Gun & adapters, drill bits Pop rivet gun Silicon and silicon gun Set square Builders pencil Agro props one for each portal (to support apex of portals during construction)
Do It Yourself - Slabs Materials 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Concrete. Mesh (whatever recommended e.g. F62) Plastic for under slab. Mesh stools to hold mesh at correct height. (bar chairs) Water available on site.
Tools 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
Formwork - Can be purchased from your distributor. Trowel's for finishing and edging. Helicopter - Hire from local hire agent. Bull float - Hire from local hire agent. Mud Barrow- Hire from local hire agent. String lines to set out slab. Steel pegs to hold up string lines and form boards. Leveling pegs for setting height of concrete in middle of slab. Shovels to help spread concrete. Screening board to hold float of concrete. Compactor - Hire from local hire agent.
Set-up 1. 2. 3. 4.
Level to help get site correct (dumpy or laser - from local hire) Compact if site is new fill or loose soil. Set out string lines to slab size(check diagonal measurements are equal) Mark out and dig footing holes.
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Site Preparation It is important when forming the foundation slab for your building to allow sufficient space for machinery such as scissor lifts and cranes to operate safely. A leveled area around the shed slab of approximately 4-5 meters would be adequate to provide a safe and accessible working space. When your building pad is finally prepared it should be level, compacted and clear of any obstructions. The layout of the footings/foundations should be clearly defined using profile pegs and string lines.
Slab and Reinforced Footing Beam Layout The measurements found within the plans are the exterior measurements to be used for the slab. It is important to take into account, when a partial slab is used, the slab measurements need to accommodate a dividing wall, girts and internal columns if the sheeting for the dividing wall is to overhang the slab or be positioned below slab level. • •
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•
•
• • • •
Establish the parameters of the building slab layout starting from the bottom left hand side of your plan. Place the first profile peg approximately 1 mtr outside the bottom left hand side of the slab then run the string line to the bottom right hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the bottom side of your shed on your building plan. Referring to your plan, position a profile stand 1 mtr below the left hand bottom corner of your plan then run the string line to the top left hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the left side of your shed on your building plan. To establish the top edge of the slab of your building plan repeat the slab process as follows: Place the first profile peg approximately 1 mtr outside the top left hand corner of the slab then run the string line to the top right hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the top side of your shed on your building plan. Referring to your plan position a profile stand 1 mtr above the right hand top corner of your plan then run the string line down to the bottom right hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the right side of your shed on your building plan. To check that all corners of the profile lines are at 90 degrees to each other, diagonally check the measurement from one corner to another to qualify the measurements are the same, if not adjust until both measurements are equal. Next locate and mark your Roller door jamb footings. If a lean-to /skillion are included in the shed design repeat the above and mark the footings. Ground spray should be used to markout your footings prior to digging Periodically check your footings centres with string lines and re-measure each footing as you progress to ensure that each trench is correct to the engineer plans.
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• • • • •
Next, box the perimeter edge of your slab ensuring that the sides are square and in line with your string lines previously set out. Inlay a plastic liner and your selected mesh as specified by your engineer to suit the soil requirements. Have a council inspector or certifier inspect slab preparation prior to pouring. After slab inspection has been granted you may pour your slab and footings. During the pouring of the slab periodically check to ensure all boxing has been maintained in line with your string lines, adjust if necessary.
Footing layout Establish the basic parameters of your building, the exterior measurements are exactly the overall measurements given on the plans for the positioning of the sheeting. • •
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•
•
•
• • • • • • • • •
• •
Establish the parameters of the building layout starting from the bottom left hand side of your plan. Place the first profile peg approximately 1 mtr outside the bottom left hand side of the building column centre’s then run the string line to the bottom right hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the bottom side column centre line on your footing plan. Referring to your plan position a profile stand 1 mtr below the left hand bottom corner of your plan then run the string line to the top left hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the left side of your shed column centers line on your footing plan. To establish the top building column centre line of your footing plan repeat the process as follows. Place the first profile peg approximately 1 mtr outside the top left hand side of the building column centre line then run the string line to the top right hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the top side of your column centre line on your footing plan. Referring to your plan, position a profile stand 1 mtr above the right hand top corner of your plan then run the string line down to the bottom right hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the right side of your shed column centre line on your footing plan. To check that all profile lines are at 90 degrees to each other, diagonally check the measurement from one corner to another to qualify the measurements are the same, if not adjust until both measurements are equal. Using your footing plan for both top and bottom centre lines mark your footing centre as per the given measurements, the last measurement should be the centre line of the right hand side profile string line. Again, repeat this process in conjunction with your footing plan for skillion/lean-to’s. Use spray type paint prior to digging footings to assist in directing your auger. Always leave your corner profile pegs to assist when pouring your footings so as to locate the footing positions and height. Footings must comply with engineering specification requirements as supplied by your certified engineer to suit your soil compaction test. Whilst digging your footings, ensure all debris is cleared from the top and base of the footing holes. Periodically check your footings centre’s with string lines and remeasure each footing as you progress to ensure that each is correct to the engineer plans. Obtain an engineer or council certifier prior to pouring the footings. When the concrete truck is on site, ensure to maintain an adequate separation between the truck and the footing holes to prevent collapsing Pour your footings. Whilst pouring the cement ensure you maintain adequate support of the reinforcing steel. There should be a minimum 50mm cover of reinforcing over all surfaces. The use of a dumpy level is recommended whilst pouring to ensure the correct portioning is being dispatched to each hole so that final leveling is not a major task. Immediately following the departure of the concrete truck check your footing levels, adjust if required.
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•
Re-establish your profile lines tightly then mark the centre line for the column centre and spacing by trowelling the intersecting point on the top of the footing pad by utilising a cement trowel point.
• • •
Use the bolt set-out plan to mark all footings for the placement of your footing bolts. Once complete, re-check all bolt spacing’s and footing levels. Allow the correct curing time for your footing to mature before assembly.
Setting Out the Hold Down Base Plates Column Base Plates can now be fitted to the slab or footing. Use the correct size masonry drill; carefully drill the hole in the marked position. The depth of the drilled hole should be the screw bolt length plus the 2 times the screw bolt diameter. Screw bolts are designed to function correctly within DIN standards. The drill diameter must be the same size as the root diameter of the screw bolt being used.
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Use a high torque hammer drill to firmly tighten screw bolts into the slab or footing taking care not to over tighten which may result in snapping off the bolt head. Ensure a continual pressure is applied to the hammer drill at all times. During installation, debris or dust may be created by the threads cutting action which may cause screwing resistance. To overcome this, unscrew one or more turns before continuing to full embedment.
Using a chalk line mark the slab as per the measurements on the hold down plan as above. With the chalk line mark the centre of the first hole of your hold down plates from the edge of the slab down one side of your concrete as per your plan. Next mark the second bolt hole of the same hold down plate from the edge of slab. Repeat the process on the opposite side of the slab. Next mark from the centre of your first bolt holes to the centre to bolt holes on the opposite side of the slab. Repeat the process on the opposite end of the slab. Mark the centre portal hold down plate position from one side of the slab to the other.
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Portal Frame Assembly •
Utilise your Bill of Materials to identify and layout your portal columns, rafters, apex plate, haunch plates in the shape of the building with the flanges of the “C” flanges facing up.
Note: End wall portal frames will sometimes utilize different apex plates and rafters to accommodate intermediate end wall columns. These can be identified by extra holes along the web face of the apex plate. In some cases where an end wall column is to be utilized, the apex plate will have a section notched out on the flange on the bottom of the plate to accept the end wall column. •
Position the two rafter beams over the top of the apex plate aligning the corresponding holes and assembling the structural bolts in the holes provided
•
When constructing the end wall portal, the end wall apex plates on some designs will have a notch section in the apex plate to receive the end wall mullion.
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•
Fit the haunch plates and eave girt fascia brackets to the columns then bolt the rafter using the structural purlin bolts as supplied and hand tighten.
• •
Locate and fit base plates to columns. Again hand tighten. Please check that the frame assembly measurements are correct as this may save time later if you have selected the incorrect components.
•
With the main portal frame, correctly tighten all structural bolts with a pneumatic torque wrench. Repeat this procedure until all portal frames are assembled. Assemble and mark the end wall rafters and columns at the same time. These are generally a smaller member size than the main rafter.
• •
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Construction Bracing WARNING: Construction bracing is critical when erecting the framing as it ensures the framing will withstand the usual forces encountered during all stages of construction. Portals cannot be relied upon to remain standing during the construction process using column base plates alone. Relying on column base plates without using the recommended construction bracing could result with the frame collapsing. The addition of roof and wall sheeting to the structure provides stability and structural support to the building once it has been completely erected. Therefore this bracing needs to be substituted during the construction process with suitable supports (Agro props under portal frame apex plates) until the building is completely erected. Factors that determine the above will include the building size, the wind region and any other factors that may jeopardize erection completion. It is absolutely essential to apply fixed bracing to both ends plus every second portal. This will be deemed to be the absolute minimum fitted bracing requirement. In addition to this, all sides must be braced in both directions. When a portal frame is standing unsupported the frame will deflect slightly within its own weight. To overcome the sag or downward deflection, utilization of an agro prop will camber the portal to the required height depending upon portal span. To counteract the deflection whilst assembling a portal frame, when propping allow 6mm for 1 meter of portal span. E.g. 9 meter portal span will require 45 mm over correction to counteract the downward force when assembly is completed.
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Portal Frame Erection • • • • • •
• • • • •
• • •
The most important factor when considering the crane type required to achieve erection of the portals, reach must be considered in lieu of weight. Always utilise fabric slings as this will prevent damage to the frame and are more conversant than chains due to slippage. Before starting, ensure you have sufficient fixed bracing available onsite for the full shed and ready to use. Start at one end of the building; lift the first portal into place. Always support the rafter by utilising two lifting points at the haunch plates plus additional support half way between the apex and the portal end. When lifting don’t allow for the columns to make contact with the footings or slab until such time they are placed directly onto the footing plates.
Do not release the portal until the portal frame is secured and properly braced and the base plate bolts have been tightened. Fix bracing to the top of the columns/haunch plate as well as the rafter near the apex plate. Utilize a spirit level on the columns to ensure that they are level vertically. After the fixed bracing has been fixed release the lifting slings from the portal frame. Stand the second portal, fit structural bolts to base plates and fix bracing in the same method as end portal.
To both sides of portal fit centre roof purlins and eaves purlins then proceed to fit the remainder purlins and girts until that total section is complete. Proceed to the third portal, attach the portal to the base plates and fix bracing to columns and apex, reminder that every second portal must be braced as per the end portal frame. Continue this procedure until all portals are stood, ensuring that the fixed bracing, purlins and girts are fitted to every portal as it is erected.
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• •
Fit fly bracing and cross bracing to roof and walls as per the engineering drawings supplied. After all portals have been completed with all purlins, girts, cross bracing, fly bracing fitted you will be required to torque all structural bolts to 40 ft pounds.
Purlins and Girts Roof Purlins when supplied 64mm Tophat sections When Tophat sections are provided they are marked on the BOM so as to give an indication as to how many go in each bay. The Tophats themselves will not be physically marked. The top (apex) roof purlin is to be fixed (Tek® Screwed) as per the engineering drawings close to the ridge line. The bottom purlin is to be fixed (Tek® screwed) as per the engineering drawing distance from the eaves girt purlin. The remaining of the roof purlins are to be spaced evenly between the bottom purlin and the ridge line purlin and fixed (Tek® screwed) as per the engineering drawings supplied. When the building consists of multiple lengths per length of building the Top hat purlins supplied should be lapped in accordance with the drawing supplied. (Other words lapped 250mm either side of rafter).
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Roof Purlins when supplied “C” & “Z” sections All “C” & “Z” sections utilised for wall girts and roof purlins are punched in the flange with structural bolts and nuts provided to bolt to the portal frame, please refer to the engineering drawings provided for location reference. The top roof purlin is fixed utilising holes punched in the rafter spaced to accommodate roof screws for fixing the sheeting and ridge cap. The eaves purlin is spaced and fixed utilising holes punched in the rafter to accommodate the roof screws for fixing the sheeting adjacent to the eaves gutter. Intermediate purlins are spaced in accordance to the local wind region, terrain, topography and importance level.
Wall Girts when supplied 64mm Tophat Sections The eave girt bracket is mounted in position to the top flange of the column with 2 structural engineering bolts. The eaves girt fascia purlin projects outward past the column to the same distance height of the wall girts and projects upwards to the same distance height of the roof purlins. The eaves girt purlins are fitted with the open “C” flanges facing inwards towards the interior of the building. The eaves girt purlin fits over the eaves girt fascia bracket utilising 2 structural engineering bolts. The eaves girt purlins that require being a continuous run fit to the middle bays of your building exactly to the centre of each column. The ends protrude past the end column to the same height as the end wall girts. When Tophat sections are provided they are marked on the BOM so as to give an indication as to how many go in each bay. The Tophats themselves will not be physically marked. The bottom wall girt is to be fixed (Tek screwed) as per the engineering drawing distance 200mm above the finished floor level height. The remainder of the wall girts are to be fixed (Tek Screwed) spaced evenly between the eave/fascia and the bottom girt.When the building consists of multiple lengths per length of building the Top hat girts supplied should be lapped in accordance with the drawing supplied. (Lapped 250mm either side of rafter)
Wall Girts when supplied “C” & “Z” Sections The eave girt bracket is mounted in position to the top flange of the column with 2 structural engineering bolts. The eaves girt fascia purlin projects outward past the column to the same distance height of the wall girts and projects upwards to the same distance height of the roof purlins. The eaves girts are fitted with the open “C” flanges facing inwards towards the interior of the building. The eaves girt purlin fits over the eaves girt fascia bracket utilising 2 structural engineering bolts. The eaves girt purlins that require being a continuous run fit to the middle bays of your building exactly to the centre of each column. The ends protrude past the end column to the same distance out as the end wall girts. All “C” & “Z” sections utilized for wall girts are punched in the flange to accommodate the structural engineering bolts and nuts provided to bolt to the portal frame column, please refer to the engineering drawings provided for location reference. Intermediate purlins are spaced and bolted to the column in accordance to the local wind region, terrain, topography and importance level The bottom wall girt is fixed utilizing holes punched in the column as per the engineering drawing distance 200mm above the finished floor level to accommodate the wall screws for fixing the sheeting adjacent to the floor.
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End Wall Girts The end wall girts attach to the end of the corner column and overlap on the flange with the opposing wall girt. In some instances the end wall girts, positioning will clash with the heads of the flange purlin bolts used on haunch plate connection. Two options are available either notch the flange of the Z / top-hat wall girt to allow passage or drill holes in the wall girt to allow it fix in the same positioned as the bolts used in the haunch plate connection. When the wall is sheeted to the ground level, the sheeting is fixed to a girt running 200mm adjacent to the floor surface. All girts are to be spaced to the predetermined distance nominated on the engineering assembly drawings, additional girts are provided on the end wall where the distance above the eave/fascia purlin to the apex exceeds the maximum allowable girt spacing. Wall sheeting fixing at the roof line is screwed to the racking girt that is fixed to the bottom side of the purlins. A small angle (trim angle) is provided to minimize unsupported sheeting.
Eave Girt Purlin The Eave Girt Purlin is mounted to the eaves girt fascia bracket which is attached to the column utilising 2 holes provided on the external flange. The eaves girt brackets projects past the outer flanges of the column to the same height of the purlin and girt provided. The eaves girt are fitted with the open section of the “C” facing inwards the interior of the building.Fascia purlin bolts are utilized to make the connection.
Fly Bracing For location of fly bracing refer to the engineering structural drawing supplied. The structural fly bracing is pre-cut and bent to the required length and is fixed by using TEK 14-20 x22 screws. The strap needs to be fixed so that no lateral movement is evident, taught not loose.
Cross Bracing Please refer to the engineering drawings for the location of cross bracing. The structural cross bracing is utilised with strap material 32mm wide and fixed by using TEK 14-20 x 22 screws. The cross bracing is attached to the apex point of the shed rafter and attached diagonally to the opposing column top and stretched underneath the purlins and screwed to the bottom of the purlin as the strap crosses the bay width . Sequence of fitment as follows: • • • • • • •
Fix the cross brace with 1 screw at the apex of the rafter. Stretch the bracing tight by fixing a screw in the strap at the column end utilising a claw hammer to tension the strap. Fix the cross brace with 2 screws at the column end of the opposing rafter whilst holding tension. Place the second screw in the rafter at the apex. Fix 2 screws to each cross point to the underside of the roof purlin. Repeat the process when applying the opposing diagonal cross brace to the same bay. Complete the same process with the next bay requiring cross bracing.
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Fitting Trim Angle to Raking Girts • • • •
Angle trim is provided to support the end wall and internal sheeting which is to be fixed level to the underside of the purlins. Fit the angle trim to the top side edge of the roof purlins utilising 1 TEK 14 – 20 x 22 screws per purlin. The angle trim is to extend from the apex of the building to the fascia eave girt. Always lap join the angle trimmer over a purlin with a minimum lap of 200mm.
Skillions Portal Frame Connection to Main Gable Frame • • • • •
• •
Fit the reverse haunch bracket utilising the holes provided to the main gable columns with structural engineering bolts provided. Fit the column base connector plates to the skillion columns Fit the haunch plates the top of the skillion columns. Fit the skillion rafter to the skillion rafter haunch plate and tighten all structural bolts connecting column to all connection plates. Lift into position the skillion rafter column assembly and connect to the inverted haunch plate fixed to the main gable column using structural engineering bolts provided, and then tighten. Then apply temporary support bracings to the skillion portal frame assembly before proceeding to the next skillion frame assembly. Repeat the process to construct the next assembly.
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Roller Door Side Wall Mullion Assembly All roller door vertical mullions are “Z” sections. These sections are to be placed with wider flange of the Z section extended with the lip forward to the internal side of the portal with the narrow lip of the “Z” Section positioned to receive the wall girts on either side of the roller door opening. As in Figure 1. Below. •
•
The z mullions are attached to the foundation with the PLBASE*** plate via screw bolts supplied and 2 structural bolts per mullion, The vertical roller door mullions extend from the foundation to the fascia or rafter purlin depending on positioning. Vertical mullions are marked MV*. As in figure 4 below. The base plate size is dependant on the size of the roller door to be fitted. The following provides a general overview of the plate that will be supplied for each set of vertical mullions. 1. Domestic door up to 3000mm high x 3150mm wide will have Z150 vertical mullions, the base plate for these mullions is PLBASE150. 2. Wind-lock door up to 3000mm high x 3150mm wide will have Z150 vertical mullions the base plate for these mullions is PLBASE150. 3. Industrial door up to 5100mm high x 5100mm wide will have Z250 vertical mullions, the base plates for these mullions is PLBASE250.
•
There are two different types of roller door headers used in the roller door surrounds. 1. Type one is an open lip ‘C’ section. These are used in the case of small domestic sheds and an extend support for wall sheeting is not required. 2. Type two is a standard “C’ purlin. These are used on most shed designs where extended wall sheet support is required to meet the offset of the wall girts.
•
Where the “C” purlin roller door header is being used the section is placed between the leading edge flanges of each of the vertical “Z” mullions with the open side of the section facing up toward the fascia or rafter. This section will protrude past the leading edge of the Z mullion flange to provide support for the sheeting over the top of the roller door opening and is joined via an angle brackets RDHMBRKT***RH and RDHMBRKT***LH to each vertical mullion with 4 structural bolts. Roller door header sections are marked MH*.
•
Where the open lip “C” roller door header section is used this section will also be placed between the leading flanges of each of the vertical mullions with the open side of the section facing up toward the fascia or rafter. This section will sit flush with the leading edge of the Z mullions to provide support for the sheeting over the top of the roller door opening and is joined via an angle bracket RDHMBRKT***RH and RDHMBRKT***LH to each vertical mullion with 4 structural bolts. Roller door header sections are marked MH*
•
The header brackets RDHMBRKT***RH and RDHMBRKT***LH are to be attached to the vertical roller door mullion prior to positioning. Place the wider part of the bracket on the internal side vertical mullion with the narrow portion of the bracket extending along the leading edge of the vertical mullion ( purlin flange)positioned to connect to the inside of the open lip “c” section or “c” purlin roller door header. As per figure 2.
•
The bottom of the roller door header is the height from the ground equal to the nominated door height. The roller door should be fitted so the bottom edge of the door curtain retracts to an open position 50mm below the header mullion.
•
In all cases refer to the roller door manufactures instruction manual for the fitment and positioning of the roller door brackets
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Roller Door End Wall Insertion •
•
The vertical roller door mullions extend from the foundation to the end wall rafter purlins when an end wall configuration is to be used. Depending on the size of the roller door to be inserted it may be necessary to “notch” the haunch plates on the end wall portal to allow the vertical mullions passage to connect to the portal rafter. This “notching” can be achieved with the use of an angle grinder and removing the section of the return lip of the underside of the haunch plate. As shown in Figure 5. In most cases of end wall door insertion the end wall support mullion has removed as the roller door support mullion will provide the required support in place of the end wall support mullion. This is dependent on the quantity and size of doors used in the end wall.
Figure 1.
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Figure 2.
View from External Side of Shed
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Figure 3.
Side wall componet positioning for roller door insertion.
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Figure 4.
Roller surrounds for side wall roller door insertion
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Figure 5.
Haunch plate notched on the return fold to allow connection of “Z” mullion to rafter with PLVMC***L**D connection bracket. Note only the return fold of the haunch plate requires notching. This notching is only to be the correct width to match the width of the “Z’ section. The web of the “Z’ mullion is to be in contact with the web of the haunch plate.
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Handling and Cutting of Roof Sheeting For safety, wear gloves when handling Roofing & Walling. Ensure your hands or gloves are clean, especially when handling Zincalume© sheeting which can mark. Use a coloured pencil for marking steel, as lead or black pencils contain graphite which promotes rusting. Roofing and Wall sheeting is best cut using tin snips, but for larger cuts it may be necessary to use a power saw with a steel cutting blade or a power nibbler. Avoid using abrasive discs as they can cause burred edges and coating damage. Where possible cut sheets on the ground, and always clean off any swarf and metal filings progressively during the installation. Dispose of off-cuts carefully.
Roofing & Wall Sheeting • • • •
• •
All fasteners used to secure roof & wall sheeting must have neoprene washers. For Trimclad each pan requires one fastener. Four* (4) wall screws per full sheet per wall girt perpendicular to the sheeting and adjacent to the wall profile crest. For Corodek each pan requires one fastener. Five* (5) wall screws per full sheet per wall girt perpendicular to the sheeting and adjacent to the wall profile crest. Wall sheeting should be laid into the prevailing wind and sit neatly on the preceding roof sheet, as shown in the laying procedure below. They should be fixed at the recommended support spacing’s. Avoid ‘stretching' the width of the sheet when installing, as this could allow wind and rain to enter. Wall sheeting should be fixed on the side wall as soon as possible as this provides excellent bracing to a partially built building.
*This amount may vary in cyclonic areas.
•
•
• •
Due to its higher rib height, flashing turn downs into the pan of Trimclad should always be notched around the rib to provide maximum weather tightness. Pan fixing is only suitable for walling, carport and verandah applications or where weather tight roofing is not essential. When spans exceed 900mm for roofing or 1200mm for walling, it is recommended the side laps are fixed at mid-span to ensure a weatherproof seal and to secure the overlap, especially when the roof is walked on occasionally. Use either 8 x 12mm self drill stitching screws or 3.2mm sealed blind rivets. On roofing, at the end of the sheets, the pans should be turned up at the crest of the roof and down into the gutter using a turn up/down tool. On walling take particular care to level your first and second sheets, and then check every couple of sheets from there on with a spirit level to maintain a vertical level.
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Fixing Trimclad Roof and Wall Sheeting to your new structure ROOFING Crest fixing
Fixing to Steel Self drilling and tapping screw with neoprene washer
TEK HX 12-14x50 Neo Zacs4
WALLING Pan fixing
TEK HX 12-14x20 Neo Zacs4
Laying procedure
Fixing Corodek Roof and Wall Sheeting to your new structure ROOFING Crest fixing
Fixing to Steel Self drilling and tapping screw with neoprene washer
TEK HX 12-14x42 Neo Zacs4
WALLING Pan fixing
TEK HX 12-14x20 Neo Zacs4
Laying procedure
•
• • •
Corodek sheets should be laid into the prevailing wind and sit neatly on the preceding roof sheet, with a side lap of 1.5 corrugations, as shown in the laying procedure below. Avoid ‘stretching’ the width of the sheet when installing, as this could allow wind and rain to enter. On roofing, at the end of the sheets, the valleys of each corrugation should be turned up at crest of the roof and down into the gutter using a turn up/down tool. On walling take particular care to level your first and second sheets, and then check every couple of sheets from there on with a spirit level to maintain a vertical level. When walking on Trimclad or Corodek roofing, it is recommended you walk over the purlins to avoid any damage. Wear flat, rubber soled shoes and walk flat footed, spreading
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•
• • •
your weight evenly over as many corrugations as possible. For carport and verandah applications, crawl boards should be used to avoid damage during installation and maintenance. Once all the side walls are screwed off the roof sheeting can be installed. Before doing so make sure you have a centre prop to support the centre portal frames this is to ensure you don’t induce a negative downward camber in the ridge line when applying downward pressure when screwing the sheeting to the roof purlins. First position the roof sheeting to protrude 60mm past the wall sheeting into the gutter to avoid drainage problems. Please refer to the screw fixing details in the diagrams above. Do not fix screws to the apex purlins on either side of the ridge until you are ready to fix the ridge and barge caps.
End Wall Sheeting Screw a trim angle to the underside of the overhanging roof purlins prior to sheeting the end wall. The end wall sheeting is then screwed to the trim angle. Lay all gable wall sheeting from the smallest to the largest sheet prior to fixing. The starting point for fixing the sheeting is the left hand side of the gable with the shortest sheet then descending from the gable end wall apex to the other sheet corner. Never start at the middle of the gable. Before doing so, please check the direction of the overlap is facing opposite to the prevailing winds.
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Using a spirit level please ensure the vertical level is maintained as you progress across the end wall at the same time maintaining a straight screw line to the wall girt.
Translucent Sheeting A maximum of one (1) translucent sheet can be fitted per side per bay, you should check to see if it is a building requirement to fit safety mesh under each skylight. Translucent sheeting should be fitted after the roof sheeting and on top of both sides of the steel roof sheet as to support the translucent sheeting on both sides. To ensure that the roof sheeting is fitted parallel, fit a dummy sheet (without screws) and then fit the next roof sheet required. Remove the dummy sheet and continue, making sure to fit the safety mesh if required before screwing the roof sheeting on either side of the skylight. The translucent sheeting must be drilled 2 x times the diameter of the roofing screw to allow for expansion and contraction. Special roof screws and washers are supplied to fix the sheeting. The screws have a large sealing washer to ensure adequate waterproofing is achieved and to allow for the different expansion rates between the steel and the fibreglass.
Barge Capping Always start fixing the barge from the bottom gutter end of the gable. If your building has a wide span several pieces will be supplied which will involve overlaying the top barge over the lower barge, this will create a weather tight seal. The standard overlap used is between 100mm and 200mm. Cut the barge cap vertically at the apex so there is a vertical joint in the centre of the building.
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Ridge Cap Fix the ridge cap in a direction so the joint is facing away from prevailing weather. Seal the overlap of the ridge with silicon sealer provided.
Trims It is essential that everything is square and parallel to sheeting lines to provide a neat finished product therefore when applying the flashings care must be taken.
Corner Trims Fit corner trims up behind the barge capping and gutters with wall screws (TEK HX 10-16x16 Neo. Zacs4) making sure to fix on the same line as the wall girt. Corner flashing’s are provided with uneven sides ,this is to allow for corners where the wall sheeting has been trimmed to allow for a flush finish. Place the flashing with the longest side extending over the rise in the sheeting furthest from the corner of the building.
Fitment of Gutters First of all a concealed gutter bracket should be placed at either end of the building just under the protruding roof sheets. Then a string line is to be attached to the bottom edge of the concealed bracket so the remainder of the bracket can be fixed level at 1 meter centers. Avoid placing a bracket at the same position of a downpipe and at least 300mm from a gutter join. Brackets are attached with wafer head screws to the sheet profile ridges of the wall sheeting. Before fitting the gutter to the building first turn the gutter upside down to mark the positioning of the downpipe nozzle, use a downpipe nozzle as a template to mark the area that you are that you are going to insert the nozzle. Carefully cut out the shape section so that the nozzle will fit snuggly into the hole, allowing for the flanges of the nozzle to be fitted inside the gutter. Take the nozzle
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and place a bead of plumber’s silicone sealer around the face of the flange and place the nozzle into position then fix the nozzle with rivets provided. It is essential with Colorbond© gutters to remove all plastic from the areas you are working on. Now fit the stopends to the gutter with 4 coloured rivets. Seal the inside of the gutter stop end with plumber’s silicone sealer. Now remove all plastic from the gutter and place the gutter onto the brackets bead then rotate the gutter towards the rear of the bracket until it clips into place, at the same time ensuring the gutter fits neatly under the barge capping at either end of the building. Now the gutter has been attached to the brackets, depress the tags down over the rear of the gutter to hold it against the wall sheeting and rivet the bottom of the gutter to the bottom flange of the concealed bracket. Silicone rivets to prevent gutter leakage. If you have a continuous run of gutter to include the fitment of several lengths of gutter, peel the protective plastic off the gutter. Allow for a suitable overlap, place 2 lines of silicone in the new section of gutter at the overlap. Follow the same procedure for fixing along the building until the entire wall is correctly guttered.
Metrolline Gutter and V Bead Barge. Barge cut and folded to match gutter.
Metroline gutter position over roller doors on side wall of shed. Copyright © 2009 Program Plus Pty Ltd
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Roller Door Installation If your roller door is steel wrapped then you can now cut the bands and remove the outer wrapping. DO NOT under any circumstances remove the plastic wrapping at this stage.
Measuring from the outside of the shaft to the outside of the barrel take the measurement and use it to measure from the bottom of the header mullion up the roller door support bracket to locate the position of the top of the mounting bracket. Using a spirit level, ensure both mounting brackets are even. From the inside of the roller door jamb, measure 100 mm on one side and 125mm on the chain side to the leading edge of the roller door mounting bracket. You should now be able to secure the mounting brackets. See below for restricted and normal headroom required for your roller door
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Lift your roller door (still in its plastic wrap) onto the top of the mounting brackets. Ensure that the roller door protrudes the same distance over the roller door mullions on both sides (overlap 25mm each side for series 1 roller doors and 50mm each side for series 2 roller doors). Put the U bolt clamp over the shaft through the lower clamp and the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the U clamp bolt at this stage.
While the U clamp is loose, roll the door so that the end of the door is closest to the roller door mullion. Slide the door so that the end of the door is close to the roller door mullion without touching it. Before tightening the U clamp, recheck that the roller door protrudes the same distance over the roller door mullion on both sides. Now ensure the U clamps are securely tightened. Failure to do so will result in the door unraveling. Ensuring the door is still in its plastic wrapping; roll the door towards the roller door mullions one and a half to two turns. Hold the door and cut the plastic wrap. Warning do not lose control of the door and allow it to unravel, this door has been tensioned and will exert some pressure. Pull the end of the roller door approximately 300mm. Place a soft wooden chock between the door end and the barrel of the door to prevent it from retracting.
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Z Mullion, Roller Door Track and Roller Door Support Bracket View.
Roller Door to Support Bracket Mounting.
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Portal Column with Z Mullion and Roller Door Support Bracket. Splay the track guide entry points to allow easy access for the door ends. Engage the roller door into the tracks. Attach your guide tracks loosely to the roller door mullion with two brackets on each track. Ensure that the bottom of the guide tracks are level with the lowest desired point of the door. Check that the door goes up and down smoothly without binding on the tracks. Secure the tracks to the roller door mullions, making sure that all of the supplied brackets have been used. With the door closed, mark the bottom of the locking bars on the roller door tracks. Open the door and slot the track appropriately. Close the door and check that the locks work smoothly. Warning, make sure there are no sharp edges or swarf remaining in the tracks.
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Personnel Aaccess Door Installation As displayed below, PA door in side wall (figure 1) and PA door in gable or end wall of building (figure 2). Having constructed the portals and placed wall girts as per the mark numbers in the certified drawings and Bill of Materials, use the following procedure to construct the PA door surrounds and insert the PA door into the desired position. There are 2 types of PA door commonly used, These are the preassembled larnec door which comes in mounted within its own frame and the component or deluxe door which requires site assembly. Figure 1.
Figure 2.
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The per-assemble Larnec door comes per hung within its own frame. The door handle/lock is prefitted for convenience.
The above are the components for the PA door assembly including support mullions, door jambs and PA door frame with skin. 1. Measure wall batten depth. This will give the required distance to notch the PA door support mullions. 2. Notch the PA door support mullions to the depth measured above as per Figure 3. 3. Measure the PA door frame width and mark support mullion position on wall girts allowing for thickness of mullions and door jambs on both sides of door. Allow 10mm clearance. T his can be adjusted with the door jambs before securing jambs to mullions. 4. Place mullion into position (see Figure 4). 5. Using wafer head screws supplied, secure support mullions to each batten both internally and externally as per Figure 5. 6. Secure the support mullions to the concrete utilizing the PLPAM brackets and concrete screw bolts supplied as in Figure 5.
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Figure 3.
Figure 4.
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Figure 5.
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7. Take the PA Door Jambs (as seen in Figure 6) and place over the outside of the P A support mullions (as seen in the figure 7). Adjustment to opening size can be made here by withdrawing the door jamb away from the mullion support by the required distance to narrow opening width. Check required distance between jambs on erection drawings ( nominal size 785mm from high rise to high rise of jamb) 8. Notch PA Door Jamb header as indicated in figure 6. To make tabs for securing header to vertical jambs, measure length of door frame and position header the measured distance allowing for clearance for door to swing. 9. Fix hinges to door jambs. Hinges should be mounted between 250-300 mm from each end of door. 10. Fix PA Door Frame to hinges. 11. Fit door lock and mark barrel position in relation to vertical jamb. 12. Drill hole in vertical jamb as marked to receive lock barrel and fasten face plate to door jam.
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Figure 6.
Figure 7.
Window Installation Procedure Copyright © 2009 Program Plus Pty Ltd
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Window Assembly 1.
Measure the depth of the wall girts. This measurement will be used to notch the window support mullions prior to assembly.
2.
Using the measure taken above notch, the window support mullions to the measured depth as shown in figure 1.
3.
Insert support mullions into wall as per figure 2. and fasten tabs of mullions to wall girts top ,bottom, and both sides of wall girts.
4.
Following the measurements on the certified drawings supplied with your kit, measure the distance from foundations to indicated window head height on your drawings, mark wall girts appropriately.
5.
Position window in between support mullions. Secure window to support mullions with Tek screws through side flanges on window frame (Figure 5).
Figure 1.
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Figure 2.
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6.
Window surround flashing to be attached to window support mullions prior to sheeting walls.
7.
The window frame is to support sheeting at the top and bottom of the window by sheeting over the outside of the window frame
Figure 5.
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Internal shed view of window support assembly
View from internal side of window support setup. Sheeting cut to receive window frame.
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Sliding Track & Door Assembly
4 SSSSSS
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