September 2016

Volume 42 IN THIS ISSUE Tasting Notes on New Releases Pinot Noir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 65 Zinfandel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Cabernet Sauvignon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Syrah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Rhône-Style Red Blends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Rhône-Style White Blends and Varietals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Chardonnay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 In the Wine Library by Bob Foster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Summary of Wines Reviewed in this Issue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

fruit flavors with herbal notes and undertones of sweet oak; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Deserving a few more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 13.8% alcohol; 211 cases; 100% PN; to be released Spring 2017. (Group Score: 16.5, 0/4/3; My Score: 17 [90/100], fourth place) 5. 2014 Westwood, “Estate, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($44) – Medium-light ruby; fragrant, floral, raspberry and black cherry fruit aroma with hints of cinnamon, cardamon, and cola; medium to medium-full body; forward, red fruit flavors with good depth and bright acidity; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Approachable and appealing to drink over the near term. Highly recommended. 13.9% alcohol; 780 cases; 100% PN; released June 2015. (Group Score: 16.4, 1/0/2; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], fifth place) 6. 2014 Westwood, “Clone 90, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($54) – Medium-light to medium ruby; forward, intense, earthy, raspberry and strawberry fruit aroma with herbal notes and a hint of forest floor; medium-full body; tight, textured, firmly structured, red fruit flavors with some richness in the mouthfeel, though a bit astringent on the finish; medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Should benefit with a few more years of bottle aging. Highly recommended. 13.6% alcohol; only 98 cases; 100% PN; released December 2015. (Group Score: 16.3, 2/1/1; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], sixth place) 7. 2014 J Vineyards, “Strata,” Russian River Valley ($50) – Medium-light ruby; earthy, raspberry and cherry fruit aroma with light herbal notes and a hint of cola; medium to mediumfull body; fleshy, supple, red fruit flavors with good depth, vibrant acidity, and some richness in the mouthfeel; medium tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable now, though deserving a few more years of aging. Highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 750 cases; 100% PN; released May 2016. (Group Score: 16.1, 0/1/0; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], seventh place) 8. 2014 Westwood, “Reserve, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($64) – Medium-light to medium ruby; attractive, floral, cherry fruit aroma with earthy and spicy notes; medium body; tight, slightly tart red fruit flavors that developed and evolved with airing in the glass; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. The wine initially

PINOT NOIR New Releases 1. 2014 Sarah’s Vineyard, “Estate,” Santa Clara County ($40) – Medium-light ruby color; attractive, bright, fragrant, cherry and strawberry fruit aroma with spicy notes and hints of clove and forest floor; medium to medium-full body; nicely balanced, red fruit flavors with bright acidity and a hint of cola; medium tannin; lingering aftertaste. Elegantly styled with hints of complexity, and very easy and enjoyable to drink now as it opened and developed with airing in the glass. Very highly recommended. 13.5% alcohol; 415 cases; 100% Pinot Noir (PN); to be released November 2016. (Group Score: 16.6 of 20 points, 6 of 13 first-place votes/2 seconds/2 thirds; My Score: 17 [91 of 100 points], second place) 2. 2014 J Vineyards, “Robert Thomas Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($65) – Medium-light ruby; attractive, assertive, cranberry and dark cherry fruit aroma with light, toasty notes, and hints of Asian spices; medium to medium-full body; fleshy, supple, red fruit flavors that have good depth and balance with a velvety mouthfeel; medium tannin; lingering aftertaste. Shows some elegance, and while easy and enjoyable to drink now, it’s deserving of a few more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 700 cases; 100% PN; released May 2016. (Group Score: 16.5, 1/2/2; My Score: 17 [91/100], first place) 3. 2014 J Vineyards, “Bow Tie Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($65) – Medium-light to medium ruby; initially a bit subdued in the aroma, though developed with airing to show attractive red fruit along with hints of cola and forest floor; medium to medium-full body; elegant, well balanced, cherry and raspberry fruit flavors with bright acidity and a silky mouthfeel; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Deserving a few more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 700 cases; 100% PN; released May 2016. (Group Score: 16.5, 2/2/2; My Score: 17 [90/100], third place) 4. 2014 MacPhail, “Lakeview Vineyard,” Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($49) – Medium ruby; forward, toasty, black cherry fruit aroma with hints of clove and cocoa; medium to medium-full body; supple, plummy, earthy, red

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plushness in the mouthfeel; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Easy to drink now. Very highly recommended. 14.8% alcohol; 141 cases; 100% PN; released October 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 1/2/1; My Score: 16.5 [90/100], fifth place) 4. 2014 Ramey, “Platt Vineyard,” Sonoma Coast ($75) – Medium-light to medium ruby; attractive, floral, fragrant, cherry fruit aroma with spicy notes and hints of dried herbs; medium to medium-full body; tight, elegant, cherry fruit flavors with herbal notes and a silky mouthfeel; medium tannin; lingering aftertaste. Deserves several more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 570 cases; 100% PN; released August 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 1/0/1; My Score: 17 [91/100], fourth place) 5. 2014 A.P. Vin, “Garys’ Vineyard,” Santa Lucia Highlands ($56) – Medium-light to medium ruby; initially subdued, cherry and dark berry fruit aroma that developed depth and intensity as it aired in the glass; medium-full body; rich, ripe, fleshy, supple, dark berry fruit flavors with a plush mouthfeel and a hint of sweetness; medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Appealing to taste now, though best to age for several more years. Very highly recommended. 15.2% alcohol; 275 cases; 100% PN; released Spring 2016. (Group Score: 16.3, 0/1/2; My Score: 17 [90/100], seventh place) 6. 2014 Patz & Hall, “Gap’s Crown Vineyard,” Sonoma Coast ($70) – Medium-light to medium ruby; initially tight in the aroma, though it opened and developed attractive, deep, earthy, cherry fruit aromatics; medium-full body; tight, textured, cherry fruit flavors that show some richness and depth, though tending to be a bit lean on the finish; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Deserves a few more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.2% alcohol; 950 cases; 100% PN; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.2, 0/2/0; My Score: 17 [91/100], second place) 7. 2014 Ramey, Russian River Valley ($50) – Medium-light to medium ruby; attractive, ripe cherry fruit aroma with hints of forest floor; medium body; elegantly styled, tight, slightly tart cherry fruit flavors with bright acidity and a slight richness in the silky mouthfeel; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 960 cases; 100% PN; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.1, 0/0/1; My Score: 17 [90/100], sixth place) True Ranking: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6] [7]

showed a slight hint of spritz on the tongue after first being poured though swirling in the glass helped to quickly dissipate it. Highly recommended. 14.6% alcohol; 220 cases; 100% PN; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.1, 1/0/0; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], eighth place) 9. 2014 MacPhail, “Wightman House,” Anderson Valley ($55) – Medium ruby; toasty, spicy, black cherry fruit aroma with a note of damp earth and a hint of cedar chest; medium to medium-full body; bold, earthy, herbal, cranberry and dark cherry fruit flavors that are firmly structured, though a bit rough and drying on the finish; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Needs a few more years of bottle aging. Highly recommended. 13.8% alcohol; 119 cases; 100% PN; to be released Spring 2017. (Group Score: 16.0, 0/1/1; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], ninth place) 10. 2014 Hirsch Vineyards, “The Bohan-Dillon,” Sonoma Coast ($34) – Medium-light ruby; raspberry and black cherry fruit aroma with floral notes and a trace of sulfur; medium body; tight, slightly tart, red fruit flavors that were tending to be elegant in style, though somewhat simple; medium tannin; lingering aftertaste. Some extended airing helped to dissipate the sulfur. 13.4% alcohol; 668 cases; 100% PN; released Spring 2016. (Group Score: 15.4, 0/0/0; My Score: 16 [86/100], tenth place) True Ranking: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6] [7, 8, 9] [10]

PINOT NOIR More New Releases

1. 2014 MacPhail, “Vagon Rouge,” Russian River Valley ($65) – Medium ruby color; attractive, forward, herbal, red cherry along with red and dark berry fruit in the aroma with notes of forest floor and toasty oak; medium-full body; deep, plush, ripe, red and dark fruit flavors balanced with bright acidity; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable to taste now, though deserving several more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 248 cases; 100% Pinot Noir (PN); released Fall 2016. (Group Score: 16.7 of 20 points, 5 of 9 first-place votes/1 second/2 thirds; My Score: 17 [92 of 100 points], first place) 2. 2014 MacPhail, “Mardikian Estate,” Sonoma Coast ($85) Medium-light to medium ruby; attractive, fragrant, spicy, cherry fruit aroma with hints of Asian spices; medium to medium-full body; fleshy, elegant, red fruit flavors with some plushness in the mouthfeel; medium tannin; lingering aftertaste. Very enjoyable now, though best to age for a few more years. Very highly recommended. 13.8% alcohol; 170 cases; 100% PN; released Fall 2016. (Group Score: 16.6, 2/3/2; My Score: 17 [91/100], third place) 3. 2014 Nielson by Byron, Sta. Rita Hills ($45) – Mediumlight to medium ruby; deep, spicy, smoky, strawberry and raspberry fruit aroma with hints of tea and forest floor; medium to medium-full body; red fruit flavors with a slight

ABOUT OUR TASTING NOTES UR TASTING NOTES are the result of weekly doubleblind tastings held in San Diego. Our scoring system at these tastings is based on the traditional 20-point Davis scale for wine evaluation. I also include a score using the currently more popular 100-point scale. The group score and the number of first, second, and third-place votes appear, along with my (editor Nick Ponomareff’s) own scores and relative ranking, in parentheses after the comments on each wine. A “True Ranking” based on a statistical analysis of the results appears at the end of each set of tasting notes. Wines that do not differ significantly are enclosed within brackets. Please also note that many of the wines we taste are only available direct from the winery through their mailing list or wine club. Prices quoted are the retail price set by the winery, though many of the wines can be found discounted.

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pepper; full body; rich, ripe, rounded, red and black fruit flavors with good depth and concentration, and some creaminess in the mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Nicely balanced and structured for bottle aging though also very appealing to taste now. Very highly recommended. 15.4% alcohol; 416 cases; blended with 4% other mixed black varieties; released Fall 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 1/0/0; My Score: 17 [92/100], first place) 6. 2014 V. Sattui Winery, “Crow Ridge Vineyard, Ancient Vine,” Russian River Valley ($51) – Medium-dark ruby; attractive, ripe, spicy, earthy, brambly, jammy, black cherry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of cinnamon, black pepper, and sandalwood; full body; forward, deep, ripe, concentrated, red and black fruit flavors with some jammy richness in the plush mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable to drink now with its forward, ripe fruit and subdued tannin. Very highly recommended. 15.2% alcohol; 858 cases; blended with 2% PS; released June 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 0/2/0; My Score: 17 [91/100], seventh place) 7. 2014 Robert Biale Vineyards, “Stagecoach Vineyard,” Napa Valley ($52) – Medium to medium-dark ruby; attractive, forward, deep, intense, briary, black cherry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of vanilla, black pepper, and dried herbs; full body; forward, deep, layered, peppery, red and black fruit flavors with a full, rich mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Very accessible now for near term drinking and also having the balance and structure for further bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.7% alcohol; 282 cases; 100% Zinfandel; released Spring 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 1/1/0; My Score: 17 [92/100], second place) 8. 2014 Ridge, “Pagani Ranch,” Sonoma Valley ($40) – Medium-dark purplish ruby; attractive, forward, intense, ripe, spicy, briary, jammy, blackberry and blueberry fruit aroma with a note of black pepper and a hint of bacon fat; full body; rich, ripe, cedary, mouth-filling, dark fruit flavors with good depth and concentration, firm acidity, and hints of black pepper and dark chocolate; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Rich fruit and tannin under control make this wine very enjoyable to drink now, though also shows good aging potential. Very highly recommended. 14.8% alcohol; 3,200 cases; blended with 17% Alicante Bouschet and 3% PS; released September 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 1/0/1; My Score: 17 [91/100], eighth place) 9. 2014 Ridge, “Lytton Springs,” Dry Creek Valley ($40) – Medium-dark ruby; attractive, spicy, briary, ripe, plummy, red and black berry fruit aroma with hints of vanilla and green olive; full body; rich, ripe, spicy, textured, black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors with good depth and structure; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Very approachable and easy to drink now, though deserving a few more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 11,500 cases; a blend of 69% Zinfandel, 18% PS, 11% Carignane, and 2% Mataro; released September 2016. (Group Score: 16.3, 1/0/0; My Score: 17 [90/100], ninth place) True Ranking: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9]

ZINFANDEL New Releases

1. 2014 Robert Biale Vineyards, “Rockpile,” Rockpile, Sonoma County ($50) – Medium-dark purplish ruby color; attractive, forward, spicy, plummy, ripe blackberry and pomegranate fruit aroma with notes of dried herbs and vanilla, and developed depth and intensity as it aired in the glass; full body; forward, rich, ripe, rounded, red and black fruit flavors with good depth and acidity, and a slightly creamy mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Very appealing to taste now, though best to age for several more years. Very highly recommended. 14.9% alcohol; 378 cases; blended with 4% other mixed black varieties; released Spring 2016. (Group Score: 16.6 of 20 points, 1 of 8 first-place votes/3 seconds/2 thirds; My Score: 17 [92 of 100 points], third place) 2. 2014 V. Sattui Winery, “Pilgrim Vineyard, Old Vine,” Lodi ($36) – Medium to medium-dark ruby; attractive, fragrant, briary, spicy, ripe, raspberry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of dried herbs and cocoa; full body; deep, rich, ripe, textured, cedary, red and black fruit flavors with some plushness in the mouthfeel and supported by firm, bright acidity; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable to drink now and over the next two to three years. Very highly recommended. 15.0% alcohol; 571 cases; blended with 3% Petite Sirah (PS); released July 2016. (Group Score: 16.5, 1/0/3; My Score: 17 [92/100], fourth place) 3. 2014 V. Sattui Winery, “Gilsson Vineyard, Old Vine,” Russian River Valley ($38) – Medium to medium-dark ruby; attractive, rich, spicy, cedary, ripe, raspberry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of dried herbs and cocoa; full body; forward, rich, plummy, red and black fruit flavors with good depth, bright acidity, a hint of dark chocolate, and a plush mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable for drinking now and over the next two to three years. Very highly recommended. 15.2% alcohol; 495 cases; blended with 1% PS; released June 2016. (Group Score: 16.5, 1/1/2; My Score: 17 [91/100], fifth place) 4. 2014 Ridge, “Ponzo,” Russian River Valley ($32) – Medium to medium-dark purplish ruby; attractive, forward, briary, toasty, boysenberry and blackberry jam aroma with spicy and peppery notes; full body; rich, ripe, fleshy, red and black fruit flavors with good depth and balance; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Shows very accessible fruit and even some elegance making it very enjoyable to drink in it youth, and also worth of another three to five years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.6% alcohol; 1,600 cases; blended with 4% PS; released September 2016. (Group Score: 16.5, 1/1/0; My Score: 17 [91/100], sixth place) 5. 2014 Robert Biale Vineyards, “Grande Vineyard,” Napa Valley ($50) – Medium-dark purplish ruby; attractive, deep, intense, fragrant, spicy, blackberry and cranberry fruit aroma with some jammy richness and hints of dried herbs and white

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© 2016 CALIFORNIA GRAPEVINE (ISSN 0273-8961), Edited and published monthly by Nicholas A. Ponomareff, 8293 Caminito Lacayo, La Jolla, CA 92037-2208. Subscription rates are $42 per year for hardcopy issues or $32 per year for softcopy sent via email. Please send correspondence and subscription requests to our email address [email protected]. Periodicals postage paid at San Diego, CA. Postmaster: Send address changes to P.O. Box 22152, San Diego, CA 92192.

red and dark fruit flavors with a hint of cocoa; medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Ready and easy to drink now. Highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 20,000 cases; blended with 15% Syrah, 4% PV, 2% PS, and 2% Malbec; released November 2015. (Group Score: 16.1, 2/2/2; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], eighth place) 7. 2013 Eberle, “Estate Bottled,” Paso Robles ($40) – Medium-dark ruby; forward, rich, ripe, deep, cedary, cassis and black cherry fruit aroma with herbal and spicy notes; full body; forward, rich, textured, herbal, dark fruit flavors with a hint of cola and some plushness in the mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Approachable now though best to age for a few more years. Highly recommended. 14.9% alcohol; 2,950 cases; 100% CS; released October 2015. (Group Score: 16.1, 0/1/2; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], sixth place) 8. 2013 CrossBarn, Napa Valley ($50) – Medium-dark ruby; dark cherry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of dried herbs and tobacco leaf; full body; moderately rich, concentrated, textured, herbal, dark fruit flavors that are a bit rough and drying on the finish; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Deserves a few more years of bottle aging. Highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 10,500 cases; blended with 7% Merlot, 4% CF, and 3% PV; released Spring 2016. (Group Score: 16.1, 0/1/1; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], seventh place) True Ranking: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]

CABERNET SAUVIGNON New Releases 1. 2013 Justin, “Isosceles,” Paso Robles ($72) – Medium-dark purplish ruby color; forward, fragrant, deep, intense, cedary, black cherry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of mocha and baking spices; full body; rich, ripe, concentrated, nicely balanced, dark fruit flavors with some plushness in the mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Approachable now, though best to age for a few more years. Very highly recommended. 16.0% alcohol; 15,500 cases; blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon (CS), 16% Cabernet Franc (CF), and 9% Merlot; released January 2016. (Group Score: 16.5 of 20 points, 2 of 9 first-place votes/2 seconds/1 third; My Score: 17 [90 of 100 points], second place) 2. 2013 DAOU, “Reserve,” Paso Robles ($56) – Mediumdark ruby; attractive, forward, deep, blackberry fruit aroma with hints of licorice and dried herbs; full body; forward, rich, plummy, dark fruit flavors with good depth and firm structure; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable now as it opened and developed with airing, though also worthy of a few more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.2% alcohol; 4,500 cases; blended with 10% CF, 9% PV, and 4% Merlot; released September 2015. (Group Score: 16.4, 1/2/1; My Score: 17 [91/100], first place) 3. 2013 Mettler Family Vineyards, Lodi ($25) – Medium to medium-dark ruby; attractive, forward, spicy, cedary, dark cherry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of cedar and dried herbs; medium-full to full body; rich, ripe, textured, cedary, dark fruit flavors with a slight plushness in the mouthfeel; medium to medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Ready and easy to drink now as it delivers appealing Cabernet fruit at a very reasonable price. Very highly recommended. 15.6% alcohol; 8,377 cases; blended with 12% Petite Sirah (PS); released October 2015. (Group Score: 16.3, 2/1/1; My Score: 17 [90/100], fifth place) 4. 2013 Louis M. Martini, Alexander Valley ($34) – Medium-dark ruby; attractive, forward, deep, ripe, spicy, fragrant, cassis and black cherry fruit aroma with a hint of cola; medium-full to full body; forward, fleshy, nicely balanced, red and black fruit flavors with hints of dried herbs and vanilla; medium-full to full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable to drink now and over the near term. Very highly recommended. 14.6% alcohol; 11,250 cases; blended with 10% PS; released January 2016. (Group Score: 16.3, 2/0/1; My Score: 17 [90/100], fourth place) 5. 2013 Ramey, Napa Valley ($62) – Medium to mediumdark ruby; herbal, dark cherry and blackberry fruit aroma with spicy notes and hints of cassis and pencil lead; full body; tight, moderately rich, firmly structured, dark fruit flavors with a note of toasty oak; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Approachable now though best to age for several more years. Very highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 9,400 cases; blended with 11% Merlot, 6% Malbec, and 3% PV; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.2, 0/1/1; My Score: 17 [90/100], third place) 6. 2013 True Myth, Paso Robles ($24) – Medium ruby; fragrant, spicy, earthy, blackberry and blueberry fruit aroma with herbal notes; medium-full to full body; supple, cedary,

SYRAH New Releases

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1. 2013 Domaine de la Terre Rouge, “Ascent,” Sierra Foothills ($90) – Medium-dark ruby color; attractive, forward, rich, blackberry and blueberry fruit aroma with spicy notes and hints of tobacco leaf and black pepper; full body; big, rich, deep, dark fruit flavors with herbal notes and well integrated oak; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Shows good depth and concentration and even some complexity that will continue to develop with further bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 200 cases; 100% Syrah; to be released November 2016. (Group Score: 16.5 of 20 points, 4 of 13 first-place votes/2 seconds/1 third; My Score: 17 [92 of 100 points], first place) 2. 2014 Westwood, “Reserve, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($58) – Medium to medium-dark ruby; attractive, forward, spicy, dark cherry and blueberry fruit aroma with spicy notes and hints of vanilla and dried herbs; full body; nicely balanced, red and dark berry fruit flavors with oaky undertones, and showing some plummy richness in the mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Appealing to taste now, though best to age for another three to five years. Very highly recommended. 14.6% alcohol; 220 cases; 100% Syrah; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 2/2/3; My Score: 17 [91/100], second place) 3. 2014 Westwood, “Estate, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($40) – Medium-dark ruby; forward, rich, ripe, spicy, blackberry and blueberry fruit aroma notes of dried herbs and cracked pepper; full body; rich, plummy,

spicy, dark berry fruit flavors with good acid balance and some suppleness in the mouthfeel; full, though relatively soft tannin; lingering aftertaste. Approachable and enjoyable over the near term; Very highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 550 cases; co-fermented with a small amount of Roussanne; released October 2015. (Group Score: 16.2, 1/3/2; My Score: 17 [90/100], third place) 4. 2014 Herman Story, “Nuts & Bolts,” California ($48) – Dark ruby; forward, intense, spicy, very ripe, peppery, black cherry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of tobacco leaf, dark chocolate, and smoked meat; full body; big, rich, rustic, extracted, plummy, cedary, mouth-filling, dark berry fruit flavors with some alcoholic heat in the mouthfeel and finish; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Stylistic, generating both high and low scores from our tasting panel. 16.1% alcohol; 1,407 cases; 100% Syrah; released Spring 2016. (Group Score: 16.2, 5/1/1; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], sixth place) 5. 2013 Domaine de la Terre Rouge, “DTR Ranch,” Fiddletown ($40) – Medium-dark ruby; earthy, blackberry fruit aroma a note of toasty oak and a hint of anise; full body; big, concentrated, textured cedary, black fruit flavors with herbal and spicy notes; full tannin; a bit rough and drying on the finish; lingering aftertaste. Developed richness and depth as it aired in the glass and deserving of a few more years of bottle aging. Highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 300 cases; 100% Syrah; released September 2016. (Group Score: 16.2, 1/2/2; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], fourth place) 6. 2014 Eberle, “Steinbeck Vineyard,” Paso Robles ($26) – Medium ruby; forward, ripe blackberry and dark cherry fruit aroma with herbal notes and hints of dark chocolate (some panel member noted an early trace of sulfur); full body; sharp, peppery, red and black fruit flavors that are a bit tight on the finish; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Will benefit with a few more years of aging. Highly recommended. 15% alcohol; 1,777 cases; 100% Syrah; released May 2016. (Group Score: 16.1, 0/3/4; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], fifth place) True Ranking: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]

RHÔNE-STYLE RED BLENDS New Releases

1. 2014 Chronic Cellars, “Sofa King Bueno,” Paso Robles ($22) – Medium-dark ruby color; attractive, forward, spicy, strawberry, blackberry, and blueberry fruit aroma with herbal notes and hints of dill, mint, and cedar chest; full body; forward, rich, ripe, plummy, mouth-filling, red and dark berry fruit flavors; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Rich and ripe, styled for near term consumption. Very highly recommended. 15.0% alcohol; 5,400 cases; blend of 46% Syrah, 27% Grenache, 22% Petite Sirah (PS), 3% Mourvèdre, and 2% Tannat; released January 2016. (Group Score: 16.4 of 20 points, 2 of 11 first-place votes/1 second/2 thirds; My Score: 17 [90 of 100 points], fourth place)

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2. 2014 Hahn, “GSM,” Central Coast ($15) – Medium ruby; fragrant, spicy, raspberry and blackberry fruit aroma with hints of black pepper and smoked meat; medium-full body; fleshy, supple, youthful, red and black fruit flavors; mediumfull tannin; lingering aftertaste. Easy and enjoyable to drink now, as well as a good value. Very highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 25,000 cases; blend of 65% Grenache, 31% Syrah, and 4% Mourvèdre; released July 2015. (Group Score: 16.3, 2/2/1; My Score: 17 [90/100], third place) 3. 2014 Westwood, “Elevation, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($38) – Medium ruby; attractive, deep, intense, spicy, smoky, dark cherry and red fruit aroma with hints of cola and bacon fat; full body; deep, rich, textured, red and dark fruit flavors with oaky overtones; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Shows potential and deserves another five years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 13.9% alcohol; 780 cases; blend of 53% Grenache, 29% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah, and 6% Counoise; released October 2015. (Group Score: 16.3, 2/0/2; My Score: 17 [90/100], first place) 4. 2014 Andrew Murray Vineyards, “Espérance, Curtis Vineyard,” Santa Ynez Valley ($30) – Medium ruby; fragrant, spicy, cherry and strawberry fruit aroma with herbal notes and a hint of mocha; full body; forward, rich, fleshy, red fruit flavors with bright acidity; medium-full to full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Approachable and enjoyable to drink now and also worthy of a few more years of bottle aging. Very highly recommended. 14.8% alcohol; 9,000 cases; blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah; released July 2016. (Group Score: 16.2, 1/3/1; My Score: 17 [90/100], second place) 5. 2014 Cashmere, “Black Magic,” California ($25) – Medium-dark ruby; forward, deep, intense, plummy, ripe blackberry and blueberry fruit aroma; full body; big, forward, rich, plush, spicy, dark fruit flavors; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Shows forward, rich fruit and easy to drink now. Highly recommended. 15.0% alcohol; 17,000 cases; blend of 39% PS, 24% Mourvèdre, 19% Syrah, 11% Grenache. And 7% mix of other varieties; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.2, 2/2/2; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], eighth place) 6. 2012 Oso Libre, “Carnal,” Paso Robles ($42) – Medium ruby; attractive, perfumed, deep, cedary, ripe cherry and blueberry fruit aroma with a hint of mocha; full body; forward, plush, plummy, red and dark fruit flavors with spicy notes and a touch of black pepper; medium-full to full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Ready to drink now. Highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 780 cases; blend of 43% Grenache, 32% PS, and 25% Syrah; released April 2015. (Group Score: 16.1, 0/2/2; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], fifth place) 7. 2013 Ascension Cellars, “Trinity, Cass Vineyard,” Paso Robles ($56) – Medium-light to medium ruby; appealing, ripe, cherry and strawberry fruit aroma with herbal notes and hints of white pepper and mocha; medium-full body; relatively soft, plush, rounded, red fruit flavors with good depth and a velvety mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable to drink now showing prominent Grenache varietal character. Highly recommended. 14.4% alcohol; 135 cases; blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre; released June 2016. (Group Score: 16.1, 0/0/1; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], sixth place) 8. 2014 Margerum, “M5,” Santa Barbara County ($27.50) – Medium ruby; attractive, fragrant, herbal, toasty, red and dark berry fruit aroma with floral and spicy notes, and a hint of green peppercorn; medium-full body; fleshy, toasty, dark red

medium body; pear and stone fruit flavors with bright acidity and a slight creaminess in the mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 14.9% alcohol; 1,181 cases; 100% Viognier; released May 2016. (Group Score: 16.4, 3/2/2; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], third place) 3. 2015 Ascension Cellars, “Silver,” Paso Robles ($36) – Medium-light yellow; forward, spicy, pear and white peach aroma with a floral note of honeysuckle; medium to mediumfull body; fleshy, peach and melon flavors with a hint of lemon zest; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 13.9% alcohol; 465 cases; blend of 36% Marsanne, 33% Roussanne, 25% Chardonnay, and 6% Viognier; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.3, 2/0/4; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], fourth place) 4. 2014 Denner Vineyards, “Theresa,” Willow Creek District, Paso Robles ($45) – Medium-light golden yellow; attractive, floral, melon and peach cobbler aroma with hints of jasmine, ginger, and orange zest; medium-full body; fleshy, slightly creamy, ripe apricot flavors with a touch of citrus; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 14.0% alcohol; 644 cases; blend of 40% Roussanne, 20% Picpoul, 15% Grenache Blanc, 15% Marsanne, and 10% Vermentino; released August 2015. (Group Score: 16.3, 0/4/1; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], second place) 5. 2014 Cass, Viognier “Estate Grown,” Paso Robles ($24) – Medium-light yellow; forward, floral, apple and peach aroma with hints of honeysuckle and jasmine; medium to mediumfull body; forward, rich, ripe, honeyed, apple and stone fruit flavors with a slightly creamy mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 15.1% alcohol; 1,000 cases; 100% Viognier; released April 2015. (Group Score: 16.1, 1/2/1; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], sixth place) 6. 2014 Ascension Cellars, Viognier “Halo, Cass Vineyard,” Paso Robles ($39) – Medium-light yellow; initially subdued, earthy, apple and white peach aroma with tropical notes; medium to medium-full body; rounded, slightly creamy, apple, lychee, and stone fruit flavors with prominent acidity; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 14.1% alcohol; 300 cases; 100% Viognier; released June 2015. (Group Score: 16.0, 0/0/1; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], seventh place) 7. 2014 Tablas Creek Vineyard, Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles ($30) – Medium-light golden yellow; attractive, apple and ripe stone fruit aroma with a note of stony minerality and a hint of lime zest; medium-full body; apple and apricot flavors with good depth, firm acidity, some suppleness and richness in the mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 950 cases; 100% Grenache Blanc; released March 2016. (Group Score: 16.1, 1/1/1; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], fifth place) 8. 2014 Groundwork, Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles ($16) – Medium-light yellow; floral, slightly honeyed, pear and white peach aroma with a hint of ginger; medium to medium-full body; melon, white peach, and nectarine flavors with moderate depth and vibrant acidity; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 13.6% alcohol; 700 cases; 100% Grenache Blanc; released March 2015. (Group Score: 15.9, 0/0/0; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], eighth place) True Ranking: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7] [8]

fruit flavors that are moderately rich and fleshy in the mouthfeel; medium-full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Enjoyable to drink now. Highly recommended. 14.1% alcohol; 2,423 cases; blend of 41% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre, 4% Counoise, and 4% Cinsaut; released April 2016. (Group Score: 15.9, 2/0/0; My Score: 16.5 [89/100], seventh place) 9. 2014 Kunin Wines, “Pape Star,” Central Coast ($28) – Medium ruby; strawberry and dark cherry fruit aroma with a hint of green tea; medium-full body; moderately rich, fleshy, red fruit flavors with a hint of mocha and tending to be a bit drying on the finish; medium-full to full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; blend of 43% Grenache, 35% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah, 5% Counoise, and 5% Cinsault; released Spring 2016. (Group Score: 15.8, 0/1/0; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], ninth place) 10. 2013 Villa Creek, “Willow Creek Cuvée,” Paso Robles ($45) – Medium to medium-dark ruby; earthy, herbal, dark cherry fruit aroma; full body; big, extracted, cedary black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors that are a bit rough and drying in the mouthfeel; full tannin; lingering aftertaste. 15.2% alcohol; 400 cases; blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah; released January 2015. (Group Score: 15.8, 0/0/0; My Score: 16 [84/100], eleventh place) 11. 2013 Domaine de la Terre Rouge, “Tête-à-Tête,” Sierra Foothills ($20) – Medium to medium-dark ruby; tight, herbal, cedary, boysenberry and black cherry fruit aroma with spicy notes and a hint of smoked meat; medium-full to full body; textured, cedary, red and dark fruit flavors with bright acidity; medium-full to full tannin; lingering aftertaste. Ready and easy to drink now. Highly recommended. 14.7% alcohol; 2,500 cases; blend of 51% Grenache, 32% Mourvèdre, and 17% Syrah; released September 2016. (Group Score: 15.7, 0/0/0; My Score: 16.5 [88/100], tenth place) True Ranking: [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8] [9, 10, 11]

RHÔNE-STYLE WHITE BLENDS AND VARIETALS New Releases

1. 2015 Eberle, “Côtes-du-Rôbles Blanc,” Paso Robles ($24) Medium-light golden yellow color; attractive, fragrant, spicy, citrus and white peach aroma with hints of honeysuckle and jasmine; medium body; clean, crisp, nutty, tangerine and stone fruit flavors with a slight richness in the mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 14.9% alcohol; 636 cases; blend of 54% Grenache Blanc, 44% Roussanne, and 2% Viognier; released August 2016. (Group Score: 16.4 of 20 points, 4 of 11 first-place votes/2 seconds/1 third; My Score: 17 [90 of 100 points], first place) 2. 2015 Eberle, Viognier, “51% Four Lanterns Vineyard and 49% Mill Road Vineyard,” Paso Robles ($26) – Medium-light yellow; attractive, floral, citrussy, pear and apricot aroma;

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alcohol; 4,991 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 0% BF; 0% ML; released October 2015. (My Score: 89) 2014 La Crema, Russian River Valley ($30) – Medium-light golden yellow; attractive, forward, buttery, pear and apple aroma with hints of nectarine and baking spices; medium-full body; rich, toasty, pear and apple flavors with a slightly creamy mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 11,840 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% BF; 100% ML; released Summer 2016. (My Score: 89) 2014 Laetitia, “Estate,” Arroyo Grande Valley ($22) – Medium-light golden yellow; fragrant, slightly buttery, green apple and white peach aroma with light, spicy notes and a hint of jasmine; medium body; slightly rich and creamy in the mouthfeel with apple and citrus flavors, and notes of stony minerality; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 13.5% alcohol; 15,000 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% BF; 75% ML; released Fall 2015. (My Score: 89) 2014 Sarah’s Vineyard, “Estate,” Santa Clara Valley ($32) Medium-light golden yellow; toasty, pear and baked apple aroma; medium to medium-full body; slightly buttery, apple and ripe stone fruit flavors with firm acidity; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 14.6% alcohol; 198 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% BF; 100% ML; to be released November 2016. (My Score: 89)

CHARDONNAY New Releases HE FOLLOWING TASTING NOTES on new Chardonnays are from editor Nick Ponomareff. These wines were tasted during the past month outside of the normal Grapevine tasting panel format.

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2014 Gary Farrell, “Rochioli-Allen Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($60) – Medium-light to medium golden yellow color; attractive, forward, earthy, ripe, apple and stone fruit aroma with hints of honeysuckle and butterscotch; mediumfull body; rich, textured, mandarin orange, green apple, and lemon custard flavors with bright acidity and well integrated oak; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 13.7% alcohol; 575 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% barrel fermented (BF); 100% malolactic fermentation (ML); released September 2016. (My Score: 91 of 100 points) 2014 Gary Farrell, “Olivet Lane Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($45) – Medium-light golden yellow; attractive, intense, fragrant, spicy, apple and pear aroma with hints of tangerine, hazelnut and marzipan; medium-full body; tight, crisp, lemony, mineral-driven, apple and pear flavors with bright acidity; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 13.3% alcohol; 926 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% BF; 100% ML; released September 2016. (My Score: 90) 2014 Beringer, “Luminus,” Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley ($38) – Medium-light golden yellow; forward, toasty, buttery, baked apple aroma with citrussy overtones and a hint of roasted hazelnut; medium-full body; fleshy, pear and apple flavors with bright acidity, firm structure, and a slightly creamy mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 8,000 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% BF; 60% ML; released Spring 2016. (My Score: 90) 2014 MacPhail, “Vine Hill Road,” Russian River Valley ($45) – Medium-light golden yellow; attractive, forward, floral, apple and ripe peach aroma that developed depth and some complexity as it aired in the glass; medium to mediumfull body; fleshy, lemony, apple and stone fruit flavors with bright acidity and also some suppleness in the mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 14.3% alcohol; 251 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% BF; 100% ML; released Fall 2016. (My Score: 90) 2014 Ramey, Sonoma Coast ($40) – Medium-light golden yellow; initially restrained, green apple aroma that developed depth, brightness, and intensity with airing in the glass; medium-full body; crisp, citrus and white peach flavors with vibrant acidity and a note of stony minerality; lingering aftertaste. Very highly recommended. 14.5% alcohol; 4,925 cases; 100% Chardonnay; 100% BF; 100% ML; released February 2016. (My Score: 90) 2014 Hanzell, “Sebella,” Sonoma County ($36) – Mediumlight golden yellow; bright, earthy, green apple aroma with a hint of lime zest; medium body; fleshy, slightly supple, citrus and apple flavors with a firm acid backbone and a silky mouthfeel; lingering aftertaste. Highly recommended. 13.9%

IN THE WINE LIBRARY By Bob Foster Slave to the Vine: Confessions of a Vagabond Cellarhand, Darren Delmore, Hellmore Press, San Luis Obispo, 196 pages, softback, $16. The book begins like so many mid-life crisis stories. The author, divorced and unhappy, starts down a new path to normalcy by taking a job in a new field. In this case his solution is not buying a red sports car but working in a winery. The winery is Bonny Doon Vineyard. At first it looks like he is on the path to his salvation, but the job and the working conditions turn out to be atrocious. Towards the end he felt the need to carry a wooden hammer for protection. Delmore then quits and takes a job far from his San Luis Obispo home. The Hirsch Vineyard winery had an opening for an intern. The majority of this work is Delmore’s story of his year at Hirsch. It is a look behind the curtain showing the tremendous time, energy and effort that goes into each harvest. For a wine lover it is fascinating. There are a myriad of decisions to be made for each wine; any error could ruin the final product. While the author describes many of the steps in the wine-making, it is never so technical that the reader is overwhelmed by technical or scientific details. The Hirsch property is in a remote part of the Sonoma Coast so there is no mention of television or even cell phones. Delmore’s story is not only about the harvest, but also about how he recovered his health and his sanity (to some degree). The book is filled with both humor and a sense of the absurd. My only criticism is that when the author talks about wines he consumed, there is almost never any vintage information. For example he talks about having a Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir. But he never mentions the vintage. For a mass market book, this might be understandable. But this is a book for interested wine lovers to whom this information would have been appreciated. Nevertheless, this work is a quick, enjoyable and funny read. The behind the scenes details are fascinating. Highly recommended. 71

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In the Wine Library (Continued from Page 71)

My Score* Wine 2014 La Crema Russian River Valley ($30) 89 2014 Laetitia “Estate,” Arroyo Grande Valley ($22) 89 2014 MacPhail “Vine Hill Road,” Russian River Valley ($45) 90 2014 Ramey Sonoma Coast ($40) 90 2014 Sarah’s Vineyard “Estate,” Santa Clara Valley ($32) 89 PINOT NOIR 2014 A.P. Vin “Garys’ Vineyard,” Santa Lucia Highlands ($56) 90 2014 Hirsch Vineyards “The Bohan-Dillon,” Sonoma Coast ($34) 86 2014 J Vineyards “Bow Tie Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($65) 90 2014 J Vineyards “Robert Thomas Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($65) 91 2014 J Vineyards “Strata,” Russian River Valley ($50) 89 2014 MacPhail “Lakeview Vyrd,” Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($49) 90 2014 MacPhail “Mardikian Estate,” Sonoma Coast ($85) 91 2014 MacPhail “Vagon Rouge,” Russian River Valley ($65) 92 2014 MacPhail “Wightman House,” Anderson Valley ($55) 89 2014 Nielson by Byron Sta. Rita Hills ($45) 90 2014 Patz & Hall “Gap’s Crown Vineyard,” Sonoma Coast ($70) 91 2014 Ramey “Platt Vineyard,” Sonoma Coast ($75) 91 2014 Ramey Russian River Valley ($50) 90 2014 Sarah’s Vineyard “Estate,” Santa Clara County ($40) 91 2014 Westwood “Clone 90, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($54) 89 2014 Westwood “Estate, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($44) 89 2014 Westwood “Reserve, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($64) 89 RHÔNE-STYLE RED BLENDS 2014 Andrew Murray Vineyards “Espérance,” Santa Ynez Valley ($30) 90 2013 Ascension Cellars “Trinity, Cass Vineyard,” Paso Robles ($56) 89 2014 Cashmere “Black Magic,” California ($25) 88 2014 Chronic Cellars “Sofa King Bueno,” Paso Robles ($22) 90 2013 Domaine de la Terre Rouge “Tête-à-Tête,” Sierra Foothills ($20) 88 2014 Hahn “GSM,” Central Coast ($15) 90 2014 Kunin Wines “Pape Star,” Central Coast ($28) 88 2014 Margerum “M5,” Santa Barbara County ($27.50) 89 2012 Oso Libre “Carnal,” Paso Robles ($42) 89 2013 Villa Creek “Willow Creek Cuvée,” Paso Robles ($45) 84 2014 Westwood “Elevation, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($38) 90 RHÔNE-STYLE WHITE BLENDS AND VARIETALS 2015 Ascension Cellars “Silver,” Paso Robles ($36) 89 2014 Ascension Cellars Viognier “Halo, Cass Vineyard,” Paso Robles ($39) 88 2014 Cass Viognier “Estate Grown,” Paso Robles ($24) 88 2014 Denner Vineyards “Theresa,” Willow Creek District, Paso Robles ($45) 89 2015 Eberle “Côtes-du-Rôbles Blanc,” Paso Robles ($24) 90 2015 Eberle Viognier, “Four Lanterns and Mill Road,” Paso Robles ($26) 89 2014 Groundwork Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles ($16) 88 2014 Tablas Creek Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles ($30) 89 SYRAH 2013 Domaine de la Terre Rouge “Ascent,” Sierra Foothills ($90) 92 2013 Domaine de la Terre Rouge “DTR Ranch,” Fiddletown ($40) 89 2014 Eberle “Steinbeck Vineyard,” Paso Robles ($26) 89 2014 Herman Story “Nuts & Bolts,” California ($48) 88 2014 Westwood “Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($40) 90 2014 Westwood “Reserve, Annadel Gap Vineyard,” Sonoma County ($58) 91 ZINFANDEL 2014 Ridge “Lytton Springs,” Dry Creek Valley ($40) 90 2014 Ridge “Pagani Ranch,” Sonoma Valley ($40) 91 2014 Ridge “Ponzo,” Russian River Valley ($32) 91 2014 Robert Biale Vineyards “Grande Vineyard,” Napa Valley ($50) 92 2014 Robert Biale Vineyards “Rockpile,” Rockpile, Sonoma County ($50) 92 2014 Robert Biale Vineyards “Stagecoach Vineyard,” Napa Valley ($52) 92 2014 V. Sattui Winery “Crow Ridge Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($51) 91 2014 V. Sattui Winery “Gilsson Vineyard, Old Vine,” Russian River Vly ($38) 91 2014 V. Sattui Winery “Pilgrim Vineyard, Old Vine,” Lodi ($36) 92 * Editor Nick Ponomareff’s scores based on the 100-point scoring system.

Port and the Douro: Guides to Wines and Top Vineyards, Benjamin Lewin MW, Vendange Press, vendangepress.com, 2016, 63 pages, softback, $9.99. This slim book is one of a series of 14 (so far) works each covering a different region of the wine world. This work covers not only port but also the non-fortified wines of the Douro. The work is divided into two separate sections. In the first half of the book Lewin gives an overview of the region covering such topics of how port is made, the style of port and the methods of production. While much of this seems like well-trodden territory, there is a wealth of new information. For example, it used to be that the port producers were required to buy the alcohol they added to the fermenting juice from the government. It was of low quality and took years or even decades to soften. But in 1992 the law was changed and this spirit called aguardente could be purchased elsewhere. It was of much higher quality. The resulting impact on vintage port was profound. The wines no longer needed decades to soften. The cleaner alcohol allowed the fruit to show at a much younger age. Similarly, the author describes the ongoing modernization of the vineyards. The narrow terraces characteristic of the area are being replanted with less dense and much wider rows that a tractor can use. Additionally while there used to be many acres of field blends (places where different varietals were interspersed), the current plan is for vineyards that are planted to a single grape. There is a separate section on the growing field of table wines coming from the Douro. While the quality of these wines has been impressive, the author notes that the white wines from this region have shown the greatest improvement in recent years. In the second part of the book Lewin examines 19 of the top producers. For each producer there is a block of data including website information, visiting information, whether the winery sells direct to the public, etc. There is also a black and white reproduction of the label. For each of these producers Lewin has a page or two talking about the wines, the owners, or the production techniques. There are two factors that make me less than enthusiastic about this work. While there is an index, it only covers the 19 port houses discussed. There is no index for the first half of the book which contains much good information. A reader looking for information for, say, aguardente must turn page after page. An index would have been so user friendly. Secondly, while there are many maps and photographs many of them are dark and muddy making examination of details difficult if not impossible. Recommended. WINES TASTED FOR THIS ISSUE Wine My Score* CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 CrossBarn Napa Valley ($50) 89 2013 DAOU “Reserve,” Paso Robles ($56) 91 2013 Eberle “Estate Bottled,” Paso Robles ($40) 89 2013 Justin “Isosceles,” Paso Robles ($72) 90 2013 Louis M. Martini Alexander Valley ($34) 90 2013 Mettler Family Vineyards Lodi ($25) 90 2013 Ramey Napa Valley ($62) 90 2013 True Myth Paso Robles ($24) 88 CHARDONNAY 2014 Beringer “Luminus,” Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley ($38) 90 2014 Gary Farrell “Olivet Lane Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($45) 90 2014 Gary Farrell “Rochioli-Allen Vineyard,” Russian River Valley ($60) 91 2014 Hanzell “Sebella,” Sonoma County ($36) 89

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