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Olfaction Olfaction & & Perception Perception

Limbic area

Olfactory bulb

Limbic area

Olfactory bulb

1. Odorants bind to receptors 2. Olfactory receptor cells are activated and send electric signals 3. The signals are relayed to the glomeruli 4. The signals are transmitted to the brain

O

O

Odor molecules are generally Limbic area

isoraldeine 95

Volatile!

OCH3

Olfactory bulb

< 300 g/mol

OCH3 methyl pamplemousse O

O O levistamel

(mostly) Hydrophobic

H H

isolongifolanone

OH sanjinol

Olfactory Receptors

and the

7-Transmembrane G-protein coupled receptor proteins (GCPR) Extracellular

Hydrophillic Region

Hydrophobic Region

Lipid bilayer

Receptor protein Intracellular Hydrophillic Region

Cholesterol

G-protein-coupled receptors (7-TM receptors) Structure - Single protein with 7 transmembrane regions Extracellular loops

NH2 N -Terminal chain

Membrane

VII

VI

V

IV

III

II

I

G-Protein binding region HO2C C -Terminal chain

Intracellular loops

Transmembrane helix

O

O

O

O ot ~ 0.00063 ppb

ot ~ 0.001 ppb

ot ~ 61 ppb O

O ot ~ 0.44 ppb

ot ~ 0.13 ppb

Molecular Weight: 258.40

ot ~ 223 ppb

Molecular Weight: 238.41

O

O

caraway

spearmint (S)-Carvone

(R)-Carvone

Olfactory Receptors and the 7-Transmembrane G-protein coupled receptor proteins (GCPR)

The cAMP Transduction Cascade Ligand

Interaction of receptor with G-protein Cell membrane

Receptor ß

γ

G-protein binds

Ligand binding Induced fit for Gprotein

α

ß

γ α

Induced fit for GTP

ß

γ α

G Protein GDP

Binding site for G-protein opens

= GDP

Guanosine diphosphate

Guanosine triphosphate

GTP

Fragmentation and release

GTP binds ß

γ α

Destabilizes α-subunit

Binding site recognizes GTP

ß

γ α

Induced fit G-protein alters α-subunit shape Complex destabilized

γ

ß α

Interaction of α-subunit with adenylate cyclase GTP GDP

Binding site for α-subunit

Adenylate cyclase

cAMP acts as hormone that activates Ca2+ ion channels

Binding Induced fit

Adenylyl cyclase Active site (closed)

α-subunit

ATP

cyclic AMP

Active site (open)

Influx of Ca2+ causes neurotransmitter release Signal transduction via axons

Sound Like A LOT to Remember?

1.

ß

γ

Summary

α

Odorant (ligand) binds receptor, which then binds G-protein GDP

2.

GDP leaves and GTP binds, resulting in destabilizing complex

3.

α-Subunit binds adenylate cyclase where ATP is converted to cAMP

4.

cAMP activates Ca2+ ion channels resulting in signal transduction

ATP

GTP

cyclic AMP

Receptor cells

Olfactory bulb

Hypothalamus emotion and memory

Olfactory cortex

Fragrance Perception Humans use 350 - 400 different types of olfactory receptors - variations among individuals Statistically, each individual may detect odor with different combination of receptors Odor - Emotion, each individual response may depend on previous experiences

Market Research - understanding your customers

Sensory Analysis - using humans as measuring tool

Can you discriminate between odors?

Can you recognize odors (vocabulary)?

Sensory Analysis

1 ppb (part per billion) = 0.0000001 %

Odor Threshold O O

Floral-musk, 200 ppb (in water)

O O O O

O

O

O

O

Musky, pear, 0.001 ppb (in air)

Musk, floral, woody, 0.00063 ppb (in air)

1 ppb (part per billion) = 1 microgram/L = 0.000001 g/L = 0.0000001 % 1,000,000 microgram = 1 gram 1 ng = 0.000000001 g

Sensory Analysis Odor Profiling Animal: Refers to the warm, sensual and heady base notes once associated with the natural odor of musk, ambergris, civet, and castoreum, now produced by some vegetable materials and aroma chemicals. Citrus: Odors from citrus fruits such as orange, lemon, lime, mandarin and bergamot which give fresh, fruity top note. Earthy: The provocative odor of freshly turned earth, musty and rooty. Fruity: The impression of full, ripe, edible fruit odors (excluding citrus) within the fragrance theme.

Sensory Analysis Odor Profiling Green: Fragrance family or type whose odor is reminiscent of fresh-cut grass, leaves or a warm, moist forest. Green notes add lift and vigor to a fragrance composition. Herbaceous: A fragrance note that is grassy-green, spicy and somewhat therapeutic, e.g., thyme, hyssop, chamomile. Marine: Currently, a very popular outdoorsy, fresh and clean, watery, ozonic, beach-like note. Spicy: Piquant or pungent notes such as clove oil, cinnamon; characteristic of notes of carnation, ginger, lavender or the chemical spicy notes of eugenol or isoeugenol. Sweet: Can be used to describe a fragrance that has richness and ambrosial characteristics associated with sweet taste. Woody: An odor which is linked to the aroma of freshly cut, dry wood or fibrous root such as sandalwood or vetiver.

Sensory Analysis Odor Profiling Pane llist: ________________________________________

Sa mple ID

Flo r al

Fru ity

Citr us

Herba l

Gr ee n

Date : _______________________

Mint

Mar ine

Sweet

Spicy

Woo dy

Fr es h

Sensory Analysis Odor Profiling

20

15 10

5 0 Floral

Fruity

Citrus

Herbal

Mint

Sweet

Woody

Fresh

Sensory Analysis Odor Profiling H

O

O H

O Adoxal

Cashmeran

Triplal

Sensory Analysis Odor Profiling - Multidimensional scaling map

Sensory Analysis Odor Profiling

Using Ingredients to Create

O

• Demo fragrances - with and without safraleine

Leather, Tobacco, Spice, Wood, Saffron, Rose

Using Ingredients to Create • Demo fragrances - with and without

OMe

toscanol

Anise, Green, Licorice, Sassafras

Using Ingredients to Create

Ultrazur

• Demo fragrances - with and without

fresh, ozonic, marine (sea-like)

Using Ingredients to Create Top note Middle/heart note Base/bottom note

The top notes of a fragrance are generally the lightest of all the notes. They are recognized immediately upon application of the perfume. The top notes are also the first to fade (evaporate) given their relatively high vapor pressure (usually small molecular structure). Since the top notes generally provide a fragrance’s first impression, they either draw you to a perfume or turns you off. It is hugely important that the top notes not only succeed at luring you in, but also smoothly transition into the heart of the fragrance.

Using Ingredients to Create Top note Middle/heart note Base/bottom note Common top notes include citrus (lemon, orange zest, bergamot), light fruits (grapefruit, berries) and herbs (clary sage, lavender)

Using Ingredients to Create Top note Middle/heart note Base/bottom note

The middle, or heart notes, blend underneath the top notes however mostly appear once the top notes evaporate. The middle notes are considered the heart of the fragrance. They last longer than the top notes and have a strong influence on the base notes that come later. A perfume's heart is often a smooth combination of floral or fruit tones; sometimes infused with spices like cinnamon, nutmeg or cardamom.

Using Ingredients to Create Top note Middle/heart note Base/bottom note Common fragrance middle notes include geranium, rose, lemongrass, ylang ylang, lavender, coriander, nutmeg, neroli and jasmine.

Using Ingredients to Create Top note Middle/heart note Base/bottom note

The base notes are the final fragrance notes that appear once the top notes are completely evaporated. The base notes mix with the heart notes to create the full body of the fragrance, but are typically associated with the dry-down period. The job of the base notes is to provide the lasting impression. These often rich notes linger on the skin for hours after the top notes have dissipated.

Using Ingredients to Create Top note Middle/heart note Base/bottom note Common fragrance base notes include cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, patchouli, oakmoss and musk.

Using Ingredients to Create ‘wet’ versus ‘dry down’

Top notes: Tangerine, Lemon, Mango Middle notes: Sage, Green Base notes: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Timberol, Tonka Bean

Using Ingredients to Create ‘wet’ versus ‘dry down’

Top notes: Mandarin, Neroli Middle notes: Peony, Ylang-Ylang, Orange Blosson Base notes: Patchouli, Cypress, Cashmere, Moss

Using Accords to Create ACCORD Perfume accords are a balanced blend of three or four notes which create a completely new, unified odor impression. Amber Aquatic Balsam Chypre Citrus Floral Fresh Fougere

Fruit Gourmand Green Herbal Mellis Oriental Spice Wood

The Grosjman Accord 30% Iso E Super 30% Methyl Ionone 30% Galaxolide 10% Hedoine Sophia Grojsman was given the Living Legend Award by the American Society of Perfumers in 1996, and the Achiever Award by Cosmetic Executive Women in 1994. Her creation Calvin Klein Eternity was inducted into the Fragrance Hall of Fame at the 2003 Fifi Awards. Perfumes created by Sophia Grojsman include:

The Grosjman Accord Boucheron Jaipur (1994, with Jean Pierre Mary)
 Bvlgari Pour Femme (1994, with Nathalie Lorson)
 Calvin Klein Eternity (1988)
 Celine Magic (with Alain Astori) 
 Christian LaCroix (shell bottle, 1999)
 Coty Exclamation! 
 Elizabeth Arden True Love
 Elizabeth Taylor Diamonds and Rubies
 Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds (1991)
 Estee Lauder Spellbound (1991)
 Frederic Malle Outrageous (2007)
 Kenzo Kashaya (1993)
 Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars
 Lalique Parfum Lalique (1992)
 Lancome Tresor (1990)
 Lancome Tresor Sparkling (2007, with Alienor Massenet)

Laura Biagiotti Sotto Voce
 Gloria Vanderbilt Vanderbilt
 Michel Germain Immaculate (with Clement Gavarry)
 Paloma Picasso Tentations (1996, with Max Gavarry)
 Perry Ellis 360
 Prescriptives Calyx (1986)
 S-Perfume 100% Love
 S-Perfume 100% Love {More} (2006)
 Tova Free Spirit (2003)
 Yves Rocher Neblina
 Yves Saint Laurent Paris (1983)
 Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne (2009, with Sophie Labbe)
 Yves Saint Laurent Paris Premieres Roses (2003, with Dominique Ropion & Laurent Bruyere)
 Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse (formerly Champagne, 1993)

top note
 Bergamot, Grapefruit middle note
 Elemi, Pink Pepper, Cinnamon base note
 Leather, Tobacco, Vetiver

(M) Spice Bomb Number 1 Victor & Rolf

top note
 Raspberry, Pomegranate, Black Currant, Pink Pepper middle note
 Peony, Rose base note
 Musk

(W) Miss Dior Absolutely Number 2 Blooming Christian Dior

top note Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Begamot, Lemon, Aldehydes middle note
 Jasmine, Rose, Lily base note
 Sandalwood, Vetiver, Amber, Pathchouli, Musk, Civet, Vanilla, Oakmoss No. 5 3 Number Chanel

(F)

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