the guide.

Clockwise from left: Lolli Redini in Orange; a Mudgee homestead; Shaun and Willa Arantz of Racine, Orange.

orange & mudgee With first-rate wines and bountiful produce, the towns of Orange and Mudgee offer fantastic foodie escapes. words sarah lewis  pHOTOGRAPHY scott hawkins

While living a locavore’s life may seem all too difficult in Sydney or Melbourne, for people in the NSW Central West, eating locally occurs almost naturally. From world-class wines and handmade cheeses, to niche products such as venison, truffles and hazelnuts, the Tablelands dishes up an enviable array of produce. It’s no surprise then, that the towns of Orange and Mudgee are increasingly seen as leading foodie destinations. Cool-climate Orange is home to a thriving restaurant

scene and a wonderful line-up of wineries, which are celebrated in annual food and wine festivals (held in April and October respectively). Further north, the town of Mudgee boasts cute cafes, charming wine bars and casual brasseries, with no less than 40 wineries within easy reach. All of this, just four hours from Sydney, makes for an indulgent long weekend in either spot, but if you have more time to spare, take a week to explore all that this region has to offer.

where to eat in orange Lolli Redini

Mention the Orange dining scene, and the first place that springs to mind is Simonn Hawke’s hatted restaurant, Lolli Redini. The dining room, decked out with striking artworks and cushion-strewn banquettes, is overseen by Simonn’s partner, Leah, who also compiles the exciting wine list. While

the guide. Clockwise left: Lolli Redini’s nougat parfait vacherin; Racine Restaurant at La Colline; aperitifs at Union Bank Wine Bar; enjoy a glass of local wine at Union Bank.

Today, Scott dishes up relaxed bistro fare, such as salt cod fritters with fennel salad, scotch fillet with dauphinoise potatoes, and vanilla tart with poached quince. 179 Anson St, Orange, (02) 6361 1179.

Union Bank

Leah takes a global approach, Simonn’s modern menu showcases local produce in dishes such as crisp-skinned Dutton Park duck with caponata or Mandagery Creek venison with braised radicchio. There’s a French accent to desserts, from the nougat parfait to a caramel brulee tart. 48 Sale St, Orange, (02) 6361 7748.

Racine Restaurant Set in La Colline vineyard, with pea-green walls, bistro chairs and valley views, Racine is the quintessential country restaurant. Shaun Arantz presents beautiful plates of food using produce primarily sourced from within 100 miles. Start with a glass of La Colline sparkling before moving on to

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seared quail with soft-set eggs and pea puree, and pork belly with pumpkin cream. Desserts are fun – think carrot pudding with ginger jubes and cream cheese ice cream – and all are delivered with aplomb by Shaun’s wife, Willa. 42 Lake Canobolas Rd, Orange, (02) 6365 3275.

Bistro Ceello Chef Scott Want, along with wife Melanie, has set up shop in the space vacated by his old boss, Michael Manners of Selkirks.

This smart wine bar has long been the central meeting place in town. Prop yourself up at the communal table or settle in to the deep banquette, while you choose from the award-winning regional wine list. Try the beer-battered flathead and chips with a glass of Belgravia riesling or a porchetta and pear chutney sandwich on Racine bread. After lunch, pop next door to the Union Bank Wine Store for bottles from Orange, Oz and the rest of the world. Cnr Byng and Sale sts, Orange, 1300 721 731.

Bills beans The espresso machine’s hum provides constant background noise as locals line up at this popular corner spot for their daily caffeine fix. They do an intensely fruity espresso, and there’s a neat range of tarts, egg and bacon pies, and Trunkey Creek chorizo rolls. Plus, you can buy houseroasted beans and hand-blended teas to go. 148 McLachlan St, Orange, (02) 6361 1611.

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Clockwise from top: fresh produce at A Slice of Orange; Tonic’s lemon soufflé; Tony Worland of Tonic in Millthorpe; de Russie Suites in Orange.

Printhie Wines

The Old Convent Josie Chapman’s Sunday brunches are the stuff of legend. It’s a bit of a trek out to her wisteria-shrouded cafe, but your effort will be rewarded by a stack of crunchy corn fritters with bacon and roast tomatoes, or a virtuous bowl of muesli, yoghurt and fruit. An antique butcher’s block is topped with gorgeous sweets, including a sticky pistachio cake and glossy chocolate torte. This busy cafe fills quickly, so book ahead, or better yet, stay in the two-bedroom selfcontained cottage on site (from $200 per double, including breakfast provisions). 307 Convent Ln, Borenore, (02) 6365 2420, oldconvent.com.au.

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the orange wine trail Philip Shaw Wines

When Philip Shaw decided to branch out on his own, the one-time chief winemaker for Rosemount’s extensive research on the climate and elevation of Tasmania and the Yarra Valley finally led him to the cool climes of Orange. Today, Philip is regarded as one of the pioneers of the region, and his elegant No 11 Chardonnay and lush, well-rounded No 89 Shiraz Viognier, which contains just a whisper of white wine, make this a must-visit. A fine sauvignon blanc and the approachable Character series seal the deal. Caldwell Ln, Borenore, (02) 6365 2334.

Following stints in the Hunter, Mudgee, McLaren Vale and Italy, self-confessed ‘vintage gypsy’ Drew Tuckwell has set down roots at the Swift family’s Printhie Wines. A champion of local riesling, Drew produces a stunning example with intense lime flavours and balanced acidity (giving Clare and Eden Valley versions a run for their money). A subtle chardonnay, refined shiraz viognier and top-shelf cab-shiraz will also impress. Drew’s off to Champagne next – can’t wait to see what happens when he brings those méthodes home. 489 Yuranigh Rd, Molong, (02) 6366 8422.

Ross Hill Wines An elevation of 1100 metres makes Ross Hill one of Australia’s highest vineyards. Housed within an old apple-packing shed, the winery not only turns out cracking pinot, sauv blanc and chardonnay, but also plays host to guest chef dinners (Sailors Thai stars this month). Winemaker Phil Kerney’s Burgundian pinot noir can be

the guide. Small Acres Cyder When Bristol-born Gail Kendell moved here with her Australian husband, James, she lamented the lack of decent cider. So, in a clever move, the couple planted 20 cider apple varieties, and now produce seven drops that are more akin to wine than those fizzy versions. The Somerset is earthy and crisp (try it with pork or cheese), the Norfolk’s fruitier, and the moscato-style Appscato has a gorgeous blossom aroma. 12 Akhurst Rd, Borenore, (02) 6365 2286.

shopping in orange A slice of orange

Clockwise: the Racine dining room in Orange; Racine’s quail starter; Andrew Harris on the Mudgee wine trail.

Bloodwood Estate

found on many of Sydney’s best wine lists. And if early tastings are anything to go by, the new late-harvest riesling, with its supple, marmalade flavours, will follow suit. Wallace Ln, Orange, (02) 6365 3223.

Mayfield vineyard You could easily while away the afternoon at this rustic cellar door with its relaxed approach to tasting. Try Mayfield’s ’08 riesling, with a citrus burst, slight minerality and tight acids that ensure it’ll age beautifully, as well as stellar chardonnay, sangiovese and pinot noir. Still here? Stay in one of two country-chic cabins, which boast full kitchens (from $180 per double, including breakfast provisions). 954 Icely Rd, Orange, (02) 6365 9292, mayfieldvineyard.com.

Rhonda and Stephen Doyle have long been at the forefront of the Orange food and wine scene: the couple planted the region’s first vines in 1983, and Rhonda launched F.O.O.D Week 20 years ago. Today, they produce fine estate-grown wines, including the sprightly ’06 Schubert chardonnay, which lends itself to equally to roast pork belly and Asian dishes. The cabernet franc works a treat with spicy lamb dishes (try it at the Sydney restaurant of the same name). 231 Griffin Rd, Orange, (02) 6362 5631. For vino with a view, head to the hilltop Borrodell Vineyard (298 Lake Canobolas Rd, Orange, (02) 6365 3425) and try the gewurztraminer and sparkling pinot noir. Borry Gartrell and Gaye Stuart-Nairne had the nous to establish NSW’s first trufferie 10 years ago, and now celebrate the harvest with an annual Black Tie and Gumboot dinner (this year’s featured a five-course feast from Justin North and Alan Meaney).

Sisters Jess and Lisa Lovick source a great range of Central West fare for their gourmet shop and coffee bar. Stock up on Racine bread and pastries, Mandagery Creek venison, High Valley cheeses, and Malfroys Gold honey. For a touch of luxe, we love Millthorpe Truffles’ infused eggs. Shop 2, 200 Anson St, Orange, (02) 6369 0396. Since leaving Selkirks, Michael Manners has teamed up with butcher Michael Borg to produce top-notch prepared meals. Visit Manners & Borg (Rear of 166b Summer St, Orange, (02) 6362 2792) for braised beef cheeks, tagines or curries, and deluxe sides, such as cauliflower gratin and pilaf rice. At Totally Local (426 Mitchell Hwy, Orange, (02) 6360 4604), find drops from out-of-the-way wineries such as Printhie and Bantry Grove, plus pasta, olives, chutneys, dressings, coffee and more. Further afield, Taste Canowindra (42 Ferguson St, Canowindra, (02) 6344 2332) acts as a cellar door for the region’s wineries, such as Hamiltons Bluff, Swinging Bridge and Rosnay. Plus, there’s live entertainment and a casual menu with a local focus.

where to stay in town For boutique accommodation, check in to de Russie Suites (72 Hill St, Orange, (02) 6360 0973, derussiehotels.com.au). These smart self-contained suites range from studios to three bedrooms. Our junior suite featured a generous lounge area with giant LCD, neat kitchenette (stocked with the makings of a lovely light breakfast), a chic bathroom with spa and a sumptuous bed. From $156, including breakfast provisions.

the guide.

Clockwise from top left: Mudgee’s Butcher Shop Cafe; Alley Cats Coffee House in Mudgee; Libby Reimers of La Boucherie, Millthorpe.

Keen foodies can enrol in a class at Urban Graze Cooking School (26 Victoria St, Millthorpe, urbangraze.com.au, (02) 6366 3888). Sydneysiders Joel Owen and Tarrah Laidman offer sessions in everything from bistro classics and Mexican cuisine to twoday cheesemaking or truffle courses. Accommodation packages for are available at the recently refreshed Millthorpe Motel. For a more intimate abode, The Old Chemist (28 Park St, Millthorpe, 0417 426 472, hockeysaccommodation.com.au, from $240 per double) is the perfect retreat for two. This beautiful cottage boasts a cosy lounge filled with vintage furniture and curios, country-style kitchen and spa. Plus, there’s a host of extras, such as cheese and wine, Whisk & Pin cookies, Toby’s Estate coffee and an optional breakfast hamper. If this popular spot is booked out, try owner Belinda Satterthwaite’s charming new twobedder, The Cottage, a few doors down.

mudgee wining & dining Roth’s Wine Bar

Twenty minutes south of Orange, the historic town of Millthorpe has a population of just 1200 and a food scene that punches well above its weight. One-hatted Tonic Restaurant (cnr Pym and Victoria sts, Millthorpe, (02) 6366 3811) is worth the detour in its own right. Chef Tony Worland dishes up supremely smart, yet unfussy, fare in a warm, spacious dining room. To start, choose from an open lasagne of rainbow trout and roasted tomatoes, or chicken and leek pithivier. Move on to mains of pan-roasted blue-eye with rosti and brandade or roast quail with rillettes and polenta, before tossing up between a perfect lemon soufflé and chocolate pavé with orange sorbet for dessert.

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Newcomer La Boucherie (25 Victoria St, Millthorpe, (02) 6366 3656) is a chic blend of bookshop, artstore and cafe from Libby and Rene Reimers. This all-white space is filled with covetable artworks, designer pieces and our favourite cookbooks. Pull up a chair at the communal table to enjoy Single Origin coffee and a friand or a chunk of Cloudy Chops rocky road, or sample a slice of Tonic’s chicken and duck terrine. Another fresh face is Basalt Wine Bar + Dining (Commercial Hotel, cnr Park and Victoria sts, Millthorpe, (02) 6366 3999), offering tapas, modern mains and Angullong winery’s full list by the glass. You can also taste your way through Angullong’s range at their neighbouring cellar door, housed in a bluestone stable.

Alley Cats Coffee House Slink down the alleyway to the gorgeous cobblestoned courtyard, where wrought iron tables and chairs sit under a canopy of grapevines. Inside, a red banquette runs the length of the room, hessian coffee sacks line the walls, and blues music blends with the hiss of the espresso machine. Pop in for a fab Rainforest Alliance short black, or pot of lapsang souchong from ex-Sydneysiders Chris and Donna Little. Friday’s pie day, plus there are quiches, frangipane tarts and other sweet things to try. 61 Market St, Mudgee, (02) 6372 1555.

butcher shop photography: noel dawson

millthorpe

Taste your way around Mudgee from the comfort of Roth’s Wine Bar. What appears to be a tiny room of just 10 tables in the front bar, unfolds to reveal a comfy lounge area and a courtyard beyond. Kirsty Stokes and Jason Gaff have compiled a killer regional wine list, featuring di Lusso, Lowe Family and Logan drops, to name just a few. Settle in with a glass of Skimstone barbera and tapas plates of spicy meatballs and whitebait, or a potato and bacon pizza. 30 Market St, Mudgee, (02) 6372 1222.

the guide.

Clockwise: Logan’s stunning cellar door in Mudgee; High Valley Wine & Cheese Co in Mudgee; High Valley’s wares feature on the cheese plate at Logan.

Eltons Brasserie

High Valley Wine & Cheese Co

After a night on the Mudgee reds, or to steel yourself for a day of tasting, you’ll need a fortifying breakfast. Head to Eltons, a pretty cafe with etched-glass windows, aubergine walls and gilt-edged mirrors. Faves include pancakes and eggs benedict; by night there’s pizza and roast duck. 81 Market St, Mudgee, (02) 6372 0772. Owner Dave Cox, along with Mark Chatterton, also produces aged balsamics, dressings and nougat under the Noble House Fine Foods label, which can be found throughout the region.

Two of our favourite things, wine and cheese, combine in this charming sandstone barn. Start with a tasting of High Valley sauv blanc, made by local legend David Lowe, the trophy-winning chardonnay and a rich shiraz. Take two steps to the right and you’re in cheese heaven, with ripe brie, marinated feta and a fantastic blue all on offer. The cafe menu is short and sweet – opt for a lamb, beetroot and feta salad, or roast tomato soup with a lick of basil oil. 137 Ulan Rd, Mudgee, (02) 6372 1011. At nearby Mudgee Gourmet (6 Henry Lawson Dr, Mudgee, (02) 6372 0300), find Angela’s Edibles preserves (including a hot and spicy tomato chutney), hazelnuts from Vanessa and Clem Cox (try their dukkah), plus an array of oils, mustards and honey.

Butcher Shop Cafe Weekend brekkie has become something of an institution at this cool retro space. The original butchery’s white tiled walls are now hung with vintage posters, while a red concrete floor, primary-coloured chairs and stained glass windows add a splash of warmth. The communal table is stacked with newspapers and a tempting range of housemade cakes. For something more substantial, there’s the ‘Butcher’s breakfast’, a lamb burger with minted yoghurt, or a steak sanger with caramelised onion. 49 Church St, Mudgee, (02) 6372 7373.

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The Farmer’s Pantry Also flying the regional flag are James and Georgie Caspar of Ormiston Free-range Pork. This smart cafe/deli acts as an outlet for their bacon, ham, cutlets and snags, with pancetta and coppa joining the ranks soon. Georgie’s menu offers baked-to-order scones, Goan pork curry and a 100-mile platter. To drink, it has to be a glass of rosé

from neighbouring Burundulla winery. 234 Castlereagh Hwy, Mudgee, (02) 6372 7677. Continue south to Andrew Harris Vineyards (Castlereagh Hwy, Mudgee, (02) 6373 1477), where you can try up to 20 wines, from a pert riesling to a Barossa shiraz, in a converted shearing shed.

Logan Wines It’s hard to imagine a more chic setting for wine tasting than Peter and Hannah Logan’s hillside cellar door. A marble bar takes centre stage, while floor-to-ceiling windows afford breathtaking views. Even the labels are supremely stylish. Thankfully, the wines live up to expectations, whether it’s the easy-drinking Apple Tree Flat range, approachable Weemala wines or the Logan label, made exclusively with Orange fruit. Try the fine aperitif-style ‘M’ sparkling, stellar sauv blanc, smooth cab merlot, and all-too-drinkable pinot. 1320 Castlereagh Hwy, Apple Tree Flat, (02) 6373 1333.

the guide.

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Robert Oatley vineyards

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map key A Slice of Orange.................................. 10 Alley Cats Coffee House....................... 15 Andrew Harris Vineyards..................... 16 Basalt Wine Bar + Dining...................... 19 Bills Beans............................................ 10 Bistro Ceello......................................... 10 Bloodwood.............................................. 3 Borrodell Vineyard.................................. 8 Butcher Shop Cafe................................ 15 Cobb & Co Court................................... 15 De Russie Suites................................... 10 Di Lusso................................................ 12 Eltons Brasserie................................... 15 High Valley Wine & Cheese Co..................................... 14 La Boucherie......................................... 19 Logan Wines......................................... 17 Lolli Redini............................................ 10 Manners & Borg................................... 10 Mayfield Vineyard................................. 11 Mudgee Gourmet.................................. 14 Philip Shaw Wines.................................. 4 Printhie Wines........................................ 1 Racine Restaurant.................................. 6 Robert Oatley Vineyards....................... 13 Ross Hill Wines....................................... 7 Roth’s Wine Bar.................................... 15 Skimstone............................................. 17 Small Acres Cyder.................................. 5 Taste Canowindra................................. 18 The Farmer’s Pantry............................. 16 The Old Chemist................................... 19 The Old Convent...................................... 2 The Tannery.......................................... 15 Tonic Restaurant................................... 19 Totally Local............................................ 9 Union Bank........................................... 10 Urban Graze Cooking School............... 19

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Skimstone Nearby is one of the most unassuming, yet exciting, cellar doors we’ve come across. In a tiny shed, with portholes peering over the Cudgegong River, you’ll find Josh and Kate Clementson’s Skimstone wines. The 2010 vintage is only their second, but already this duo’s wines are hitting their stride. The range of five features a new sangiovese, barbera and merlot blend called ‘Tre Ond’, a zesty Chablis-style chardonnay, a dry rosé, a killer sangiovese, and a lush barbera that Kate likes to team with soft polenta and sausage ragu – the mere mention of which has us hoping their plans for a wood oven come to fruition. 1307 Castlereagh Hwy, Apple Tree Flat, (02) 6373 1321.

staying in mudgee The tannery

This astutely restored 1850s workers cottage is ideal for two couples: there are two beds, two fireplaces and two comfy couches. Persian rugs and eclectic artworks add personality, while a stainless-steel kitchen boasts an induction cooktop, bowls of fruit (including meyer lemons plucked from the backyard), yoghurt, biscuits and coffee to enjoy. From $300 per double, including breakfast provisions. 48 Lawson St, Mudgee, thetannerymudgee.com.au.

Cobb & co court Di Lusso Estate Italian grape varieties are a natural fit for Mudgee’s continental climate, and one of their greatest proponents is Rob Fairall. This one-time economist turned his passion for all things Italian into a broad range that spans little-known aleatico and citrussy vermentino. There’s a crisp pinot grigio, herbal sangiovese and Il Palio – a superTuscan blend of sangiovese, barbera, shiraz and cabernet. Rob also hosts movie nights and long lunches of pizza topped with yabbies or lamb, with his vinsanto-style Passito and biscotti to finish. Eurunderee Ln, Mudgee, (02) 6373 3125.

With suites bigger than most Sydney homes, these palatial digs offer plenty of space to unwind. It’s all very Federation era, with brass fittings, plaster ceiling roses and overstuffed couches. The apartments (from $320 per double) also offer kitchens, laundries and corner spas. Dine on site at Wine Glass Bar & Grill, where Scott Tracey looks to the Central West food basin to create dishes such as roast pork with olives and kipflers. 97 Market St, Mudgee, (02) 6372 7245, cobbandcocourt.com.au.  d. Thanks to Tourism NSW for assistance with this feature. For more information, go to: visitnsw.com.au.

illustration: priscilla nielsen

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Pioneering Mudgee vigneron, and founder of Rosemount, Bob Oatley today cherrypicks the best grapes from around Australia to produce more than 30 wines under five family labels. Locally, the standouts are Montrose’s Stony Creek chardonnay and Omaggio barbera; from further afield, try the savoury tempranillo out of cool-climate King Valley, and the rather austere pinot noir from Mornington Peninsula. Craigmoor Rd, Mudgee, (02) 6372 2208. If all this wine has you craving a cleansing ale, call in to the Mudgee Brewing Co. (4 Church St, Mudgee, (02) 6372 6726). A woolstore in its past life, this cavernous space is now home to some fine boutique brews. Choose from the refreshing pale ale, Bavarian-style wheat beer, hoppy spring brew and wintry porter, or if you can’t decide, opt for a tasting of all four. Plus, there’s live music on Thursday nights.