ONCE UPON A TIME IN ALMERIA

Editor-in-ChiEf Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor EditoriaL dirECtor grouP Editor Editor dEsignEr sub Editor EditoriaL assistant

Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice Gina Johnson [email protected] Mark Evans [email protected] Gareth Rees [email protected] Ralph Mancao [email protected] Salil Kumar [email protected] Londresa Flores [email protected]

Contributors

Andrew Birbeck, Geoff Brokate, Leo Byrne, Jonathan Camí, Gemma Correll, Darren Heath, Jamie Knights, Daniel Gebhart de Koekkoek, Gary Meenaghan, Adrian Mourby, Ben Paynter, Robbie Porter, Mike Priest, Stephen Stapleton, Sandra Tinari digitaL dEvELoPMEnt ManagEr Helen Cotton [email protected] sEnior digitaL dEsignEr Roui Francisco [email protected] digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta [email protected]

hEad of ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar assistant ProduCtion ManagEr Binu Purandaran

gEnEraL ManagEr, grouP saLEs Anthony Milne [email protected]

PubLishEr Martin Balmer martin.balmer @motivate.ae

grouP saLEs ManagEr Jaya Balakrishnan [email protected]

saLEs ManagEr Deep Karani

rEgionaL ManagEr abu dhabi Imane Eddinari [email protected]

dEPuty saLEs ManagEr Amar Kamath

EditoriaL ConsuLtants for EMiratEs Editor Hannah Burden Hamer arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Andy Grant WEbsitE emirates.com InternatIonal MedIa representatIves austraLia/nEW ZEaLand Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 894 472 734, [email protected] bELgiuM and LuXEMbourg M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, [email protected] China Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 gErMany IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH; Tel +49 8151 550 8959, [email protected] hong Kong/MaLaysia/thaiLand Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 2151 2351, [email protected] india Media Star; Tel +91 22 4220 2103, [email protected] JaPan Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, [email protected] nEthErLands giO media; Tel +31 (0)6 22238420, [email protected] PaKistan D&S International News Agency; Tel +92 3235345727, [email protected] sWitZErLand, franCE/itaLy & sPain IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, [email protected] turKEy Media Ltd.; Tel +90 212 275 51 52, [email protected] uK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, [email protected] usa Totem Brand Stories; Tel +1 4168475100, [email protected] Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

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ike most children born in the second half of the 20th century, I watched a lot of Westerns as a child. The BBC used to show a classic Western on TV every Tuesday evening after school, and I spent hours gawping at the oeuvres of great directors of the Western's heyday like John Ford. I was captivated by Ford’s The Searchers, How The West Was Won, The Man Who Shot Liberty Vallance and Stagecoach. The principle players in my favourite

With No Name". These so called Spaghetti Westerns – Westerns directed by Italians like Leone – to which I would add Leone’s Once Upon A Time In The West, in which he cast John Ford regular Henry Fonda against type as the villain, were the apotheosis of my Wild West celluloid odyssey. The Wild West portrayed in Leone’s films is probably no more historically accurate than the goodies versus baddies world of the earlier Westerns,

The Outlaw Josey Wales portrayed a different world to to the one John Wayne’s hero strutted about in like he’d spent a few too many hours in the saddle addressing people as “Pilgrim” John Ford movies were John Wayne, James Stewar t and Henry Fonda – sometimes surly, especially in the case of The Duke, but usually ‘good guys’ with the ability to produce an awkward smile. When I was a little bit older, I stayed up past my bedtime to illicitly view Clint Eastwood’s 1976 revisionist masterpiece The Outlaw Josey Wales, the altogether darker tale of one man seeking revenge for the murder of his family. Still one of my favourite Westerns, The Outlaw Josey Wales portrayed a different world to to the one John Wayne’s hero strutted about in like he’d spent a few too many hours in the saddle addressing people as “Pilgrim”. I didn’t know it at the time, but Clint’s film and his portrayal of Josey Wales as a real, suffering human being was undeniably influenced by the work of Sergio Leone, and in particular the Italian director’s Dollars trilogy – A Fistful Of Dollars (1964), For A Few Dollars More (1965), and The Good, The Bad And The Ugly (1966) – in which Eastwood depicted "The Man

but it is, nevertheless, the version that has remained with me. What I did not know, until very recently, is that the striking landscape shots of the American West – influenced by John Ford’s earlier Westerns – seen in many Spaghetti Western films, including those in Leone’s Dollars trilogy, were actually shots of the Tabernas Desert in Almeria, Spain. The man who imparted this fascinating piece of movie trivia was photographer Geoff Brokate, who then suggested that he travel to Almeria to photograph the sets, still standing, where more than 600 Spaghetti Westerns were shot. My reply? Yes, of course. Geoff's images more than live up to my expectations, and the team and I are very happy to share them with you here. Enjoy the issue, pilgrim.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

MARCH 2015 Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies JONATHAN CAMÍ

ADRIAN MOURBY

BEN PAYNTER

Jonathan is a Barcelona-born photographer, who currently lives in Sydney, Australia. For this issue, he photographed Sydney’s Wylie’s Baths.

Adrian Mourby has been on the road writing about travel and the ar ts for 15 years. For this issue, he visited the Viennese neighbourhood of Mariahilf.

A freelance writer and editor, Ben lives between London and south Germany. For this issue, he wrote about the work of the British author David Mitchell, who appears at the Emirates Airline Festival Of Literature this month.

DANIEL GEBHART DE KOEKKOEK Daniel is a photographer living between Vienna, Berlin and Rotterdam. For this issue, he photographed Vienna’s Mariahilf neighbourhood.

“When my Australian partner showed me the heritage-listed Wylie’s, with the old-fashioned baths, the rock pool with its clear waters and wildlife and, of course, the warm and friendly locals, I fell in love with it,” he says.

“Mariahilf is a fascinating, creative neighbourhood, alternating expensive places to eat and shop, pop-up boutiques and some scruffy street corners.”

DARREN HEATH

GARY MEENAGHAN

GEOFF BROKATE

LEO BYRNE

Based in London, Darren is a multi-award-winning photographer with 26 years of experience covering Formula 1. His striking image of Nico Rosberg celebrating his victory in the 2014 Australian F1 Grand Prix is in this issue.

Gary is a sports writer with The National newspaper in Abu Dhabi. For this issue, he detailed the growth of the Dubai World Cup, the world-renowned horse race that celebrates its 20th anniversary this month.

Geoff is an Australian photographer based in the UK. For this issue, he travelled deep into Spain’s Tabernas Deser t to discover what remains of the old Spaghetti Western film sets.

Leo is a photographer living in Dublin. For this issue, he visited Fitzsimons Hotel in Dublin’s bustling Temple Bar to photograph an Irish classic – beef and Guinness casserole.

“In two decades the race has evolved from an opulent oddity into one of the sport’s most significant events,” he says. “And not only is the US$10 million race the sport’s richest, but Dubai is also arguably now the epicentre of all things equine.”

“As I drove along the highway I was suddenly transported out of Europe into the Colorado Desert,” he says. “The film sets felt so lifelike and the locations so remote and barren that I began to understand how lawless it must have been in the Wild West.”

“Ireland’s food culture continues to go from strength to strength, with a vibrant mix of coffee shops, cafés, bars and Michelinstarred restaurants all providing a huge amount of choice for lovers of great food,” he says.

“As a photographer fortunate enough to shoot a sport I love, I strive to be able to have my photographs touch other people and make them feel something of the passion I feel for Formula 1,” he says.

“The world really is David Mitchell’s oyster,” he says. “There’s no geography, culture, history or even future that he can’t shine an imaginative light on.”

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“I was very glad to see some sunlight again after another grey winter in Vienna,” he says. “This shoot allowed me to climb up onto the roof of Haus des Meeres for the first time. I could not believe my eyes when I saw the stunning view. And I thought to myself, Vienna, I love you.”

C O N T E N T S

FRONT

22 32 35 42 44 Experience

The View From

Lunch With

Taste Of

Stay

50 52 63 Entrepreneur

Neighbourhood

Local Knowledge

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90 96 98 100 102 Emirates News

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Destination

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104 106 112 114 UAE Smart Gate

Route Map

The Fleet

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F R O N T The View From Sydney, p32 | Taste Of Dublin, p42 | Neighbourhood: Mariahilf, Vienna p52

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IMAGE: DARREN HEATH, DARRENHEATH.COM

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march 12 - 15, 2015

2015 f1 australian grand prix

melbourne, australia The F1 Australian Grand Prix is the first race of the Formula 1 season, and therefore always promises to be one of the most exciting races of the year. In 2014, Sunday’s race day attracted more than 100,000 spectators, and with 2015’s Grand Prix marking the 20th anniverary of the event being held at Melborune’s Alber t Park, the 2015 race promises to be as thrilling as ever. The four day event begins on Thursday, March 12, with F1 practice sessions on Friday, March 13, fur ther practice sessions and qualifying on Saturday, March 14 and race day on Sunday, March 15. This image, captured by multi-award-winning spor ts photographer and Honorary Fellow of the Royal Photographic Society Darren Heath following the 2014 F1 Australian Grand Prix, shows Germany’s Nico Rosberg of Mercedes celebrating his victory in the race – the first of F1’s new turbocharged era – with Denmark’s Kevin Magnussen of McLaren-Mercedes. This year, Australian driver Daniel Ricciardo will again be looking to impress in front of his home crowd, after coming second in last year’s race only to be controversially disqualified for a fuel flow irregularity. grandprix.com.au

ice TV Live is available on more than 40 of Emirates Boeing 777s. The Sport24 channel airs top international sporting events like Barclays Premier League, Bundesliga, NFL and, of course, the Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix on March 15.

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MARCH 3 - 7, 2015

EMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE Dubai, uaE

Turning the first page of a David Mitchell novel is like stepping into a stupendous airport with a round-the-world ticket in your hand. Whatever your expectations, they are certain to be exceeded. Described by many as a visionary, Mitchell’s unique writing could be said to reflect the globalised mindset of modern readers, spanning different cultures and lands as it energetically does. Mitchell himself has had a taste of the trans-cultural life. Born and raised in a middle-class family in England, he fell in love with a Japanese woman and moved to Hiroshima at the age of 24. The first

novel he published, Ghostwritten, carefully interweaves the stories of nine different narratives in nine different lands, from Manhattan to Mongolia via Okinawa and London. Tokyo was the setting for his astonishingly kaleidoscopic number9dream, in which a boy from the countryside discovers a bizarre and dangerous metropolitan underworld. In his most famous novel, Cloud Atlas (adapted into a film starring Tom Hanks), the story moves not only across continents but also across hundreds of years of history, including 1930s Belgium and a futuristic Korean state. In addition to his daring plots,

Mitchell is often praised for brilliant wordcraft and inventive style: his characters each have such distinct voices it can be hard to believe that one author has written them all. With three other novels under his belt – Black Swan Green, a coming-of-age tale set in rural England; The Thousand Autumns Of Jacob de Zoet, a historical story set in 18th century Nagasaki; and the latest, The Bone Clocks, about a war between mystic cults – Mitchell continues to trailblaze across the literary landscape. Now is the perfect time to discover his work. emirateslitfest.com

Want to find out more about the Emirates Airline Festival Of Literature? tune in to the dedicated radio show on ice Digital Widescreen channel 1502.

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IMAGE: GEtty IMAGEs

AUtHOR OF sIX NOVELs, INCLUDING CLOUD AtLAs AND HIs LAtEst bOOk, tHE bONE CLOCks, DAVID MITCHELL Is ONE OF tHE stAR DRAWs At tHIs MONtH’s EMIRATES AIRLINE FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE. LItERARy CRItIC BEN PAYNTER DIsCUssEs MItCHELL’s IMPORtANCE

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MARCH 5 - MARCH 8, 2015

THE ARMORY SHOW NEW YORK, USA

In 2003, fellow artists Ahmed Mater and Abdulnasser Gharem and I set up Edge Of Arabia, a platform for dialogue and exchange between the Middle East and the west. This month, Edge Of Arabia and our founding partner Art Jameel are collaborating on Focus: MENAM, a special section of New York’s leading art fair The Armory Show dedicated to spotlighting art from the Middle East, North Africa and the Mediterranean (MENAM). Focus: MENAM connects with our ongoing tour across the US, through which we continue to investigate, communicate and archive alternative

stories and histories connecting the Middle East and America. At the heart of our US tour is CULTURUNNERS, a mobile artist studio in the form of a Gulf Stream RV, which during The Armory Show will host projects to map, archive and amplify stories from the Focus: MENAM section of the fair and related communities across New York. March also marks the launch of FREEWAY, the online broadcast platform for our US tour. FREEWAY will present stories connecting Focus: MENAM with New York-based communities that share the MENAM identity. This includes two short artist films walking viewers through

New York’s historic neighbourhoods of Little Syria and Harlem. The films will be directed by Saudi-based Palestinian filmmaker Husam Al Sayed, with scores composed by Dubai-based Iranian performance artist and composer SALAR. Both artists are in the US through Art Jameel’s residency programme at The Elizabeth Foundation For Arts. We have seen over the years how the local and global activities of Edge of Arabia and Art Jameel have sparked conversations that have led to real impact across borders, and we hope Focus: MENAM will achieve the same result. thearmoryshow.com

This month, on March 8, Emirates launches its fourth daily service to New York JFK. The new service is the third daily non-stop A380 service connecting Dubai and the Big Apple.

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IMAGE: AHMED MATER, BORDERLAND (FROM DESERT OF PHARAN SERIES) , 2012

THIS MONTH, THE ARMORY SHOW WILL PROVIDE A SHOWCASE FOR WORK FROM THE MIDDLE EAST, NORTH AFRICA AND THE MEDITERRANEAN. EDGE OF ARABIA CO-FOUNDER STEPHEN STAPLETON EXPLAINS HIS ORGANISATION’S INVOLVEMENT

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March 14 – 15, 2015

FUTUREFEST

London, United Kingdom

Some lofty claims have been made about the future. We’ve been promised jet packs, hoverboards and self-lacing shoes for decades, but so far – nothing. While we all continue to daydream of a Jetsons-style world from the comfort afforded by the digital armchairs of Twitter and internet message boards, London-based “innovation charity” Nesta is doing something about it. Conceived as a coming together of some of the planet’s most radical thinkers, makers and performers, FutureFest asks the all-important question: what might the world be like in decades to come? The response will unfold over a two-day

“non-static” conference held at London’s Vinopolis, under the storied railway arches of London Bridge. Non-static because attendees are encouraged to engage as active participants, taking self-guided journeys through such heady themes as Future Machines and Future Democracy, in a variety of discussions, performances, installations and interactive experiences. Visitors won’t have to go it completely alone, however, as the programme is stacked with everything from food futurologists and human rights lawyers to ground-breaking authors such as The Psychopath Test’s Jon Ronson. Keynote

speakers include NSA whistle-blower Edward Snowden, British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood and funk legend George Clinton, who promises he will “take the audience through a multimedia exploration of his career as an innovative musician, radical live performer and pop Sci-Fi icon”. Building on the strengths of the inaugural FutureFest in 2013, this year’s line-up looks to offer attendees a truly immersive experience with enough future-facing fodder to formulate their own interpretation of what lies ahead for our planet and our species. futurefest.org

The Emirates Aviation Experience, located next to the Emirates Air Line cable car’s Greenwich Peninsula terminal in London, gives visitors an insight into the operations and modern achievements of commercial air travel using state-of-the-art technology, interactive displays and life-size aircraft models.

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IMAGE: corbIs IMAGEs

THE sEcoND EDITIoN oF TEcHNoLoGY FEsTIVAL FUTUREFEST TAKEs PLAcE IN LoNDoN THIs MoNTH. MIKE PRIEST, DEPUTY EDITor oF LEADING TEcH TITLE STUFF MIDDLE EAST, APPLAUDs ITs ATTEMPT To sEE INTo THE FUTUrE

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March 28, 2015

Dubai WorlD Cup Dubai, uaE

In September 1995, the trainer of an American horse named Cigar likened an imminent expedition to the Emirates to contest the inaugural Dubai World Cup as being like taking a trip to the moon. “Dubai is halfway there,” said Bill Mott, who made the trip regardless and, on March 27, 1996, watched Cigar win the US$4 million prize. Two decades later, and the annual meet has evolved from an opulent oddity into one of the racing calendar’s most anticipated events. Now worth a record US$10 million, the Dubai World Cup is the sport’s richest race, and the emirate is arguably the epicentre of all things equine. Much of the 20-year transformation

is down to two key factors. Firstly, the pioneering His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai has become the most powerful man in horse racing and the proprietor of Godolphin, the private stable that has won more than 2,600 races across the globe since its creation in 1992. Secondly, the old dirt track at Nad Al Sheba that hosted Cigar in 1996 was replaced in 2010 by a billion-dollar facility widely regarded as the most magnificent racecourse in the world. With a mile-long grandstand and five-star hotel, such is the space-age modernity of Meydan that

Mott’s quip about Dubai and the moon suddenly seems quite fitting. To mark the 20th anniversary of the first Dubai World Cup, the nine races at this month’s meeting offer an increased total prize fund of US$29.25 million, and the showpiece race will be held on dirt for the first time since moving to Meydan. Last year’s winner, African Story, is returning to defend his title. As HH Sheikh Mohammed once said, “Change is good; it’s progress.” And when it comes to the Dubai World Cup, the progress witnessed over the past two decades is, like the moon, out of this world. dubaiworldcup.com

As title sponsor, Emirates has assisted the Dubai World Cup in becoming one of the world’s top racing challenges, drawing the attention of millions of enthusiasts around the globe.

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IMAGE: REx FEATURES

GarY MEENaGHaN, A SPORTSWRITER FOR UAE NEWSPAPER THE NaTioNal, CHARTS THE DUBAI WORLD CUP’S RAPID RISE FROM A CURIOSITY TO ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT EVENTS IN THE RACING CALENDAR

T H E

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F R O M

SYDNEY MATTHEW BOWMAN, SCHOOL TEACHER, 36, WYLIE’S BATHS, COOGEE, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA IMAGE: JONATHAN CAMÍ

“I SWIM EVERY MORNING HERE, THROUGH SUMMER AND WINTER, NO MATTER IF IT’S RAINING OR COLD. EVERY DAY, AT 7AM, I COME TO WYLIE’S BATHS TO HAVE MY MORNING SWIM IN THIS INCREDIBLE OCEAN POOL. I LOVE THE LOCATION, THE OLD-STYLE ARCHITECTURE, THE ROUGH PACIFIC OCEAN OUTSIDE, THE SOUND, THE BIRDS, THE MORNING LIGHT. THE POOL IS FULL OF UNDERWATER LIFE. IT MAKES SWIMMING IN A POOL FEEL LIKE YOU ARE IN THE OPEN SEA. IT WAKES ME UP AND CLEARS MY MIND; IT’S INVIGORATING AND GIVES ME THE ENERGY I NEED TO BEGIN THE DAY. BEING A FATHER OF THREE AND A SCHOOL TEACHER REQUIRES A LOT OF PATIENCE. THERE IS NO BETTER WAY TO START THE DAY THAN FAR FROM NOISE AND STRESS, SWIMMING IN THE CHILL WATERS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN.”

Emirates offers complimentary chauffeur-driven airport transfers to First Class and Business Class passengers in more than 70 cities around the world. Customers travelling to and from Sydney can enjoy Chauffeur-drive service within 40 driven kilometres of Sydney International Airport. Itineraries that are exclusively between Australia and New Zealand are not eligible for Chauffeur-drive.

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BENEDICT FLOYD Sandra Tinari talks to Art Dubai CEO Benedict Floyd over mackerel salad and Welsh rarebit ahead of the 2015 edition of the art fair this month images: sandra Tinari

H

ands up. I confess. I had definite preconceptions about meeting Benedict Floyd, the CEO of Ar t Dubai, the company behind the ar t fair of the same name, as well as furniture and design fair Design Days, both of which take place this month. Having been told he rarely agreed to interviews, I prepared for an overly reserved lunch with the archetypical art type: the

air slightly tinged with an avant-garde intellectual arrogance as we discussed the nuances of post-modernism. Yes, it’s fair to say I had pigeonholed the financier turned art-world trailblazer. Floyd’s choice of venue – the laidback, somewhat irreverent Rivington Bar & Grill at Dubai’s charming Souk Madinat Jumeirah – was the first clue that I might have been too hasty to reach any conclusions about him, and within minutes of

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For lunch he lingers over choosing shepherd’s pie but instead opts For a mackerel salad, Followed by the Welsh rarebiT meeting the co-founder of the Middle East’s preeminent art fair, I breathed a sigh of relief. Relaxed, jovial and self-deprecating, Floyd is a delightful lunch companion. “It’s good old traditional British grub,” says the former Londoner when quizzed on the venue choice. “Not that I really know what traditional British grub is anymore, I’ve lived abroad for so long. I’m told it’s now curry?” For lunch he lingers over choosing shepherd’s pie but instead opts for a mackerel salad, followed by the Welsh rarebit. “I’ll have shepherd’s pie. That sounds good, it’s good, traditional English fare,” he says, before hesitating and then changing his mind. “Actually, you’ll stereotype me as an English fool so, no, I’ll have the Welsh rarebit instead…the blushing bunny!” Having lived abroad for 10 years now, Floyd is preparing for a visit home the day after our lunch, having just jetted in from Paris the day before, where he visited Ar t Paris. Such is the international nature of the ar t scene today, he is a seasoned and frequent flyer. He also spends a great deal of time at Souk Madinat Jumeirah, which plays host to Ar t Dubai each year. Now in its ninth year, the fair will run from March 18 to 21, with a diverse line-up of 90 regional and international galleries exhibiting across three core programmes: Contemporary; Modern, which is devoted to masters from the Middle East, Africa and South

Asia; and Marker, a curated section of ar t spaces that focuses on a differing theme or geographical location annually. This year, Marker’s focus is Latin America. While an investment banker seemingly makes for a surprising art fair CEO, it is Floyd’s business expertise that has seen Art Dubai’s fairs and education programmes expand, as he brings in best-in-class creatives and art and design professionals to Dubai to lead the organisation’s diverse schedule. “I’ve always been interested in the creative fields, but I’m always nervous to say I have an in-depth knowledge of the arts and design, which we deal with, because I’m surrounded by so many people who have so much knowledge, but it’s definitely something that I’ve always been interested in,” he says. An accidental Dubai resident, Floyd had originally migrated to Sydney, but he landed in Dubai not long after, in 2006. Drawn to the city’s opportunities and interconnectedness with the rest of the world, the then investment banker decided to stay on and work for the Dubai Gold & Commodity Exchange. However, with an appreciation for art and a simple idea, Floyd and London gallerist John Martin launched Art Dubai one year after the financier’s move to the UAE. Almost a decade on, the event attracts more than 25,000 visitors annually and has been credited with kick-starting what is now a thriving arts scene in the emirate and the wider region.

if you’re a fan of the arts, check out the documentaries and performances in Music & the arts on ice. highlights this month include choreographer alexander ekman’s a swan lake and 20,000 days on earth, a documentary that takes you into the world of writer and musician nick cave.

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very early on art dubai showed potential to grow, so i decided to say goodbye to finance “It was a very small little acorn of an idea,” says Floyd. “John and I were at dinner one night and looking across to the houses and all the construction on The Palm, we thought there must be a requirement for art… at its very basic level, for art on walls. There wasn’t an art fair here and we thought it would be a great place for galleries to come and sell their wares. “It really was right place, right time. The art market was beginning to look at the Middle East as somewhere to do business. Christie’s was starting up here. Suddenly the interest we had was from a much higher quality gallery than we’d originally set out to attract. Usually it takes a long time for an art fair to build up its roster of galleries, but we were receiving inquiries from people who we really didn’t think would be inquiring in the first year.” Floyd pauses as our meal is served. As well as the mackerel salad and the Welsh rarebit, chefs Scott Stokes and Martin Benson have prepared a couple of extra dishes: a prawn cocktail and the classic shepherd’s pie. Floyd is as taken with his mackerel salad as I am with the light, zesty and refreshing prawn cocktail. “This is really quite good,” he says. Salads devoured, Floyd continues, describing how Ar t Dubai later partnered with the Dubai International Financial Centre. He says the financial freezone’s investment has enabled Ar t Dubai to become a global event, which now attracts speakers, artists and personalities from across the ar t world, and has been credited with providing an international platform for the local and regional ar ts community. “Dubai’s art scene has grown organically. Some people have said that Art Dubai started the art scene here. That’s categorically

untrue. There was an arts scene before we got here and a strong heritage culture, as there is in many cities. I think what we did was bring the focus on the contemporary art-side,” says Floyd. “There were already galleries here. The Third Line, for example. Christie’s started here the same year. So we all started at the same time and I think we all probably saw the opportunity. I think to a certain extent, we were quite lucky. Mind you, in the global crisis we weren’t so lucky, but it’s give and take. I certainly couldn’t think of a better city to start an art fair; it’s Dubai’s positioning, its place as a global hub that allows us to do what we do.” While clearly comfortable and content with his lot, the businessman remains ambitious despite his easy-going nature. An entrepreneur, he says he is drawn to the creative side of business, particularly in the development of new projects. “It’s the creating that I enjoy. The word used to be entrepreneur, I think now they use ‘innovation’. Either way it’s creating something new, the being part of something new that I enjoy,” he says. “Very early on Art Dubai showed potential to grow, so I decided to say goodbye to finance. My background wasn’t the arts side, but my partner, John Martin, brought that speciality, that art knowledge. I’m not really sure what knowledge I brought, but I persuaded him to do it,” Floyd continues, laughing self-deprecatingly. Surprisingly, he says that it was working in derivatives that introduced him to the creativity of business development. “It was actually with my job at Credit Suisse all those years back that I found the love for the creative side of growing businesses. The bank was really a pioneer in derivatives and the creative environment that I worked in I fell in love with. I

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Art DubAi AttrActS galleries from all over The worlD know derivatives don’t have a great name now but at the time it wasn’t so bad. It was actually around 2004 when the creative, entrepreneurial side had gone out of the market that I decided I wanted to move,” he says. Floyd has since steered Art Dubai to a place in the top eight art fairs in the world in terms of content, and the event has forged a reputation as a fair of diversity and innovation. “Art Dubai attracts galleries from all over the world to the Madinat to show their artists. What makes it unique is that it’s the most globally diverse art fair of all the international fairs. We’re not as big as Art Basel but we are more diverse; I think we have 40 countries exhibiting this year, which very much reflects Dubai’s position as a global hub,” he says. “Our model is to show great art by great artists and we’re not interested in showing art that you can see at other art fairs because if they don’t see something new, why else would people get on a seven to 16-hour flight to come to Art Dubai. You need to show people something different. We are different in that we are a fair of discovery.” With a strong community and education programme, through Campus Art, The Abraaj Group Art Prize, AiR Dubai and Art Dubai Commissions, Art Dubai’s philosophy is also to nurture and help grow the arts community in Dubai and the region, through investment and in providing an opportunity to showcase works. More than 81 collector and museum groups attended the event last year and received chaperoned tours of not only Art Dubai programmes but to many of Dubai’s galleries and communities to gain a sense of what is happening culturally in the region. The new creative-oriented Dubai Design District (D3) will be on the agenda this year.

“If we are to grow the art scene here, we need to give back and to keep collaborating with everyone in the city. It would be very short term of us to not focus on helping to educate the next generation of artists. We are a commercial fair, like all other art fairs, so of course developing the arts scene here benefits us, but it also helps us to attract [people to Art Dubai],” says Floyd. The success of Art Dubai has proven a catalyst for Dubai’s weeklong Art Week, during which Floyd’s team also stages Design Days from March 16 to 20. Design Days is billed as the leading fair in the Middle East and South Asia dedicated to collectible and limited edition furniture and design objects. The event complement’s Art Dubai’s other large-scale fair, Downtown Design, which takes place each November in the heart of Dubai. For Floyd, the programmes and fairs presented by Ar t Dubai aim to be inclusive, and while obviously targeting creative professionals, he says anyone with an interest in ar t and design will find something for them. “If you look at Art Dubai and you look at what we do in that Art Week in March, including Design Days, you can expect the same audience as you would in a museum. There is something there for everyone – from the social occasion of the preview opening night, to the programme content that attracts artists, designers, museum directors, gallerists and just people who are interested in seeing great art. “Nobody should be put off that there’s some great art. People can come and enjoy the art and the rest of the programme across the week, which includes free commissioned public performances. People don’t have to come and buy art… although that would be nice!” artdubai.ae

The Bill 1 x Prawn cocktail (Dhs80) 1 x Mackerel salad (Dhs70) 1 x Shepherd’s pie (Dhs125) 1 x Welsh rarebit (Dhs35) 1 x bottled water (Dhs25) 2 x coffee (Dhs40) Total: Dhs375 | 41 |

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BEEF & GUINNESS CASSEROLE At Dublin’s Fitzsimons Restaurant, overlooking the River Liffey in the city’s busy Temple Bar, chef David Lynch and his team serve a pub menu featuring this traditional Irish dish IMAGE: LEO BYRNE

INGREDIENTS

STEPS

FOR THE BEEF AND GUINNESS CASSEROLE: 900g prime Irish beef from Donegal 500ml Guinness 3 tbs vegetable oil 60g seasoned flour 1 large turnip 1 head of celery 3 medium carrots 4 medium shallots 3 large sprigs of thyme (finely chopped) 3 large sprigs of rosemary (finely chopped) 1 tbs sage (finely chopped) 1 pint of fresh beef stock

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Trim fat from the meat, cut into two-inch cubes and marinate in Guinness overnight In a small bowl, toss meat in one tablespoon of oil and then in seasoned flour. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a large pot over a high heat. Add the beef to brown on all sides Peel and chop the vegetables into thick slices and add to the pot. Cook for two to three minutes. Add the remaining seasoned flour to the pot and cook for a further three to four minutes, stirring frequently Slowly add the Guinness and the beef stock to the pot. Bring to a simmer. Add the thyme, rosemary and sage. Pour the contents of the pot into a casserole dish. Stir and adjust seasoning to taste

It’s not clear exactly when and where the first recipe for beef and Guinness casserole originated, but it’s a common pub dish in Ireland and a popular dish on our menu at Fitzsimons. There is a long association between the famous Irish stout Guinness and food. In fact, the first written reference to pairing Guinness with food goes back to 1837, when Benjamin Disraeli (who later became UK prime minister) wrote an entry in his diary mentioning that he had “supped on Guinness and oysters”. Traditionally, Guinness has been associated with shellfish, cheese, puddings and stews. In stews like this one Guinness help to tenderise the meat and, of course, impar ts its distinctive malty flavour.

Cover the casserole and simmer over a low heat, or in a 150˚C oven, until the meat is tender (approximately two to three hours) Garnish the beef with parsley and serve with mashed potato

Emirates launched a non-stop service to Dublin in January 2012 with a Boeing 777 aircraft. In response to demand, a second daily 777 service was added in September 2014.

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THE DRAWING ROOM, 15 GLASGOW GLASGOW, SCOTLAND

Words: GArETH rEEs ImAGE: 15 GLAsGoW The husband and wife team behind 15 Glasgow, Shane and Laura McKenzie, describe it as a “boutique bed and breakfast”, and that’s exactly what it is, but it offers a little bit more luxury than your average family-run B&B. The magnificent Victorian townhouse, built in 1834, is located less than 10 minutes from Glasgow Central Station, close to

the bars and restaurants of the city’s West End and the beautiful Kelvingrove Park. It might lack some of the amenities of a five-star hotel, but 15 Glasgow’s interior is as striking as any luxury property – and it offers peace and quiet. The Drawing Room, with its high ceiling, hardwood floors and restrained décor, is the pick of the property’s five rooms. Flooded with

sunlight thanks to three floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over the street and the residents’ gardens opposite, the former first-floor reception room has it all: a super king-size bed in which to enjoy your full Scottish breakfast, a lounge area with flat screen TV and a stylish en-suite shower room. 15glasgow.com

Emirates began operations at Glasgow Airport in April 2004. Today Emirates flies twice daily non-stop services to the city with Boeing 777-300ERs. The 736 sqm Emirates Lounge in Glasgow International Airport opened in July 2014.

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GRAND HOTEL OSLO, NORWAY

Words and Image: geoFF BroKaTe It’s hard to imagine that when Oslo’s Grand Hotel opened on Karl Johan Gate, in 1874, contemporaries doubted the logic of placing a hotel so far away from what was then the city centre. Now it sits amidst Oslo’s prime real estate, between the Storting building (the Norwegian parliament) and the Royal Palace, and is one of Norway’s best-known landmarks.

Since 1901, the hotel has hosted the annual Nobel Prize banquet, while laureates stay in the Nobel Suite. The building was refurbished between 1911 and1913, during which time it gained its impressive facade of white granite. Inside, you will find deep red carpets, ornate gold trimmings and a multitude of uniformed and courteous staff.

Since September 2014, Emirates has operated a daily service to the Norwegian capital.

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As you walk through its stately doors, you can feel the lingering presence of some of the world’s most distinguished luminaries. Olso’s Grand Hotel is probably the only place in the world where you can walk in the footsteps of the great Noregian playwright Henrik Ibsen, Nelson Mandela, Mother Teresa and The Rolling Stones. grand.no

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THE LONDON EDITION LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

Words: GArETH rEEs ImAGE: THE LoNdoN EdITIoN Opened in 2013, The London Edition is the result of a partnership between Marriott International, the hotel group also responsible for The Istanbul Edition and The Miami Beach Edition, and Ian Schrager, the hotelier widely credited with inventing the boutique hotel with the opening of Madison Avenue’s Morgans in 1984. The 173room property is housed in a glorious

Georgian building – formerly the Berners Hotel from 1909 to 2006 – on Fitzrovia’s Berners Street, a shor t stroll across Oxford Street from London’s Soho neighbourhood. Schrager has managed to retain the historical spirit of the building while infusing the hotel with thoroughly modern chutzpah. The stylish but cosy rooms and suites, replete with wood-panelled walls and floors, sensual

faux fur throws, George Smith furniture and Hendrik Kersten photographs in retro gilt frames, are distinctly modern. Meanwhile, the reservation-only oak-panelled Punch Room bar and the Berners Tavern restaurant, with its modern British menu overseen by celebrity chef Jason Ather ton, add a touch of timeless opulence. editionhotels.com/london

The Emirates Air Line, London’s only cable car, takes you across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula and the Royal Docks in 10 minutes. Download the Emirates Air Line App before your trip. Just like your own personal tour guide, the app will point out the landmarks you’ll see along the Thames and more.

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Abu Dhabi trip

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E n t r E p r E n E u r

The Book Barge Barton Marina, StaffordShire, UK Words: AndreW BirBeck iMAGe: The Book BArGe

“Let’s be clear, canalside bookselling was never a childhood dream,” Sarah Henshaw tells me with mock severity. Indeed, her youthful obsession with horse books and Nancy Drew surely promised a glorious career as the world’s first “crime-solving show jumper”. After spending several years in London as an entertainment reporter, Sarah took “six months out to go travelling, fell in love with indolence and resolved never to work again”. A return home and a wander around the local marina one day proved prescient. “All those paper-backed journeys were still with me,” she says. “Books and boats could go together just as girl-Poirot and ponies once had.” A barge was for sale. Sarah had to have it. But she had no money. The banks were the obvious port of call, but a business plan complete with “pun-heavy prose and pictures of Ratty and Mole from Wind in Willows” wasn’t for the men in pinstripe suits. Funds were scraped together elsewhere, the boat was kitted out, and The Book Barge started trading. The first couple of years went fine, then online bookselling began to have an impact. So what did Sarah do? “I set sail,” she says. “Well, not literally. Truth be told, I chugged away.” Traversing the waterways that zigzag the UK Sarah brought books to buy and barter to points north, south, east and west. Social media played a key role. People offered weird and wonderful swaps, including a month’s grocery shopping and “a severe haircut from a Slovenian psychotherapist.” I ask Sarah her advice for budding entrepreneurs. “Take the plunge,” she says, and then quotes Tennyson, “ ‘Come my friends / ‘T is not too late to seek a newer world / Push off…’” You can read about some of Sarah’s experiences in her debut novel, The Bookshop That Floated Away. thebookbarge.com

If you’re after a good book on today’s flight, check out the Audiobooks collection on ice. Highlights this month include John Le Carré’s A Delicate Truth and Richard Charkin’s Top Tips For Wannabe CEOs.

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MARIAHILF, VIENNA Words: AdrIAN MoUrBY IMAges: dANIeL geBHArT de KoeKKoeK

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Emirates has been flying to Austria since May 2004, and has gradually built up its services from four to 13 flights a week, currently operated by Boeing 777-300ER aircraft.

Expensive urban art and the best scruffy flea market in Vienna sum up Mariahilf, a Boho area south of the Ringstrasse that sports some of the best fin-de-siècle buildings by Otto Wagner, alongside some pretty dodgy nightclubs Mariahilf grew up on a hill outside Vienna’s city walls with an impor tant food market, Naschmarkt, down below in the valley of the River Wien. When

the city walls came down to create the Ringstrasse in the 19th century, rural Mariahilf became the city’s District 6. Apartment blocks sprang up and the river was roofed over (later to feature in the famous sewer chase in Carol Reed’s The Third Man). But this was always a Bohemian area, attracting composers, artists and designers. After the Second World War, Mariahilf went into a | 53 |

decline. Cheaper housing needing less maintenance could be found further out of the city, and it wasn’t until 2004 that the area started to become fashionable again, with the opening of das phil bookshop, followed by Terence Conran’s revamp of Café Drechsler in 2007. Today it is a fashionable food district also boasting art galleries, pop-up shops, the youngest population in Vienna and lots of surprises.

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INOPERABLE

This first floor art gallery is a twofer. Not only do you get to browse the works of contemporary urban artists but you also get to to look around a genuine 19th-century Viennese apartment. Inoperable was started by Natalie Halgand and Nicholas Platzer five years ago in a tiny gallery with a non-working (inoperable) lift, but it moved here last year and kept the name. Visitors enter past the Portier’s office. It’s just as if you were visiting Freud in his consulting rooms, but then up winding stairs an apartment opens up with four interlinked rooms, bright parquet flooring and great views over the Saturday flea market. Inoperable’s taste is eclectic and international. Natalie and Nicholas’ only criteria is that they must believe an artist is 100 per cent committed to his or her work. Paintings can cost from €1,000 to €10,000, but cheaper limited-edition prints are also available. Stiegengasse 2/3, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 69911712925 | inoperable.at

VINTAGERIE

Ali Bechstein is famed for his sparkling rosé wine, which he offers to everyone who calls in at this repository of 20th century design. Ali believes life should be fun, so every six months he and his business partner Peter set off across Europe with an empty van and a lot of euros. They return when the money’s gone and the van is full of retro-chic merchandise. The reappearance of Ali’s van is such an event these days that, by his reckoning, he sells 20 per cent of his new stock on the pavement before he has a chance to move it inside. Vintagerie is the place for classic 1960s light-fittings by Kalmar, Lobmeyr and Bakalowits (the Austrian company that designed chandeliers for the Met in New York). Ali also sells Art Deco objets, OTT 1980s classics and unique Austrian designs, such as the Ottakringer (a chair that doubles as a step ladder). Nelkengasse 4, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 69911441967 | vintagerie.at | 55 |

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DISCO VOLANTE

The giant pizza oven decorated to look like a disco ball is so well known these days that no one bothers to look for the small neon sign above the door of Disco Volante. It’s the sight of the oven glittering through the window of this pizza parlour that pulls people in. Maria Fuchs, who also set up Pizza Mari in District 2, chose this Italianate square at the scruffy end of Gumopendorferstrasse in 2013 because it was cheap – but not anymore. Disco Volante and the headquar ters of Ögussa, Austria’s gold and metal trading company, keep the nearby taxi rank busy. This is a functionalist pizzeria with limited decor and tables in straight lines. It’s also loud, crowded and very good value. Espressos at the bar are only €1. Try the delicious house speciality Pizze Bianche, which comes without tomato sauce. Gumpendorfer Strasse 98, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 6641952545 | disco-volante.at

NENI

Neni calls itself an eclectic kitchen with an ar t focus. It’s actually a café that stretches across two historic food shops in trendy Naschmarkt. Four Austro-Israeli brothers, Nuriel, Elior, Nadiv and Ilan, gave their initials to its name and their mother provided the recipes. The slightly older 25 and over crowd target Neni for its chicken-based Jerusalem Platter or Sakshuka oriental omelette. But art is very much an equal par t of the Neni project. Every month there’s a new display of affordable ar tworks and last year the brothers organised an Instagram competition for images of Vienna. All the entries were posted on the café walls and the winner received a free meal. Neni buzzes with energy, people cram in together on metal chairs, chatter and down their coffees quickly. The boys have since opened Neni branches in Zurich and Berlin. Naschmarkt 510, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 15852020 | neni.at | 57 |

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DAS PHIL

das phil is not so much a café or bookshop as a living room where you can put your feet up pretty much any time of day (except Mondays – evenings only). Christian Schädel started the revival of District 6 more than a decade ago when he re-opened this old corner shop to sell coffee, books and vintage records. Since then das phil has been much-copied but remains very much the quirky original. Adapting the famous Mexican novelist and essayist Carlos Fuentes, a sign over the shelves reads, “Don’t classify me, read me. I’m a book, not a genre.” The laid-back vibe continues in a menu that offers breakfast until four in the afternoon. So browse the vinyl, check out American novels in German translation, pick up the latest DVDs, eat a panini or buy a table lamp. Or maybe just fall asleep in an armchair. Anything is possible in das phil (except quick service). Gumpendorfer Strasse 10-12, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 15810489 | phil.info

WE BANDITS

Back from studying fashion in Paris and Brussels, Sophie Pollack now sells Scandinavian design in a seemingly unremarkable side street that bristles with indie fashion shops, bars and photography studios. Inside this tiny boutique there’s no ar twork on the plain white walls. Nothing distracts from the impor ted clothes hanging off tree branches and the shoes piled up on old travelling chests. The stock is mainly Danish (occasionally Korean) and is currently dominated by innovative prints. Blacks and whites predominate, enlivened by splashes of flamingo pink and mustard. The latest offerings from Henrik Bibskov, Hansen and Won Hundred include cocoon coats, caftans and jumpers, ideal for layering up against the middle European winter. Vienna’s Scandi girls are the queens of Strasse-Street Style and do it without breaking the bank. Theobaldgasse 14, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 69919003895 | webandits.tictail.com | 59 |

Be a part of history Celebrate the 20th Dubai World Cup on March 28, 2015 at Meydan Racecourse. Come and experience the world’s richest horserace and the biggest social and sporting event in Dubai. Get ready for a star-studded day and night of exciting racing, glamour, fashion, exceptional dining and high-end entertainment. Hospitality gates open at 2:00pm. The first race starts at 4:00pm. To join us please book at meydan.ae or call the Ticket Sales Office on +971 (4) 327 2110

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

HAUS DES MEERES

One of the weirdest sights on the Viennese skyline is a 50m high ar tiller y platform built to bring down Allied bombers attacking Vienna at the end of the Second World War. Had Hitler won the war, he wanted this concrete tower clad in black marble as a memorial. Instead it’s been turned into an aquarium in the sky. Head past the children packed into the ground floor shop and take the lift to the ninth floor for hammerhead sharks. The aquarium glass is so clear you’ll think they are levitating in front of you. On the tenth floor is a café with the best view of Vienna. Then stroll back down through the tropical house where uncaged macaques jump over your head and Technicolor birds fly free. Strictly speaking, Haus des Meeres is an Aqua-Terra Zoo, which means there are crocodiles and boa constrictors in there, too. Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz 1, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 15871417 | haus-des-meeres.at

CAFÉ SPERL

Adolf Hitler’s favourite Viennese café is so far behind the times it’s actually hip. Once upon a time Austrian cavalr y officers used to play billiards here, but now newspapers from Germany, the UK, Italy and France are laid out on sticks across the green baize. Sperl used to have a Kein Handy (no mobile phone) policy, but it’s no longer enforced and there’s even internet now. But the essence of Sperl – marble-topped tables, floral banquettes and black lacquer chairs – has not changed since it opened in 1897. Today, as then, you can linger all day over one cup of coffee, enjoying the chandeliers and the smoke-stained ceiling. Enjoy, too, speciality cakes such as Linzerschnitte and Sperltor te, as well as Sperl’s own unique bitter coffee. Monica Staub, wife of the current owner, still oversees the café from her kitchen. Gumpendorfer Strasse 11, Mariahilf, Vienna | Tel: +43 15864158 | cafesperl.at | 61 |

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THE MOVEMENT An independent bicycle store offering a carefully curated selection of bicycles and accessories for urban riding, The Movement is on a mission to help people in Dubai live a healthier, happier and greener lifestyle Words and images: sandra Tinari

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ot all bike shops are created equal, says Rooman Latif, owner of independent bicycle store The Movement, as he polishes a 1950s-inspired Linus bicycle. The UK expat is only half joking. Latif and his wife, Julie, opened The Movement in Dubai Garden Centre four months ago, because they had struggled to find the retro-styled bikes and urban

riding community that they hankered for in Dubai. But as well as filling a niche in the city, the eco-conscious entrepreneurs say The Movement is about making a difference. “Our mission is simple: to encourage healthier, happier and sustainable living,” says Rooman. “The majority of bicycle shops in Dubai are geared towards spor ts and recreation, we want to inspire

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more people to ride a bicycle for stylish day-to-day cycling instead of driving a car for those shor t trips, whether that’s to the beach, local market or in and around your neighbourhood.” Despite seeing a surge in urban bicycles since the opening of their store, Rooman says the UAE’s urban bicycle ridership hasn’t yet reached the levels that you see in many other countries.

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As well As our pAssion, The MoveMenT wAs AbouT sTArTing something that matters “We hope to build on this momentum that we’ve seen to date. As well as our passion, The Movement was about starting something that matters. We consider ourselves eco-entrepreneurs and were keen to support the UAE’s vision of becoming a sustainable city. One satisfaction of the business is the knowledge that we’re providing our customers with non-polluting transportation, and when we leave Dubai – whenever that might be – we hope to leave it in a better place.”

As an independent bicycle shop, The Movement specialises in well-built bicycles with classic designs that are comfortable and practical, as well as the accessories to match. Reminiscent of the traditional local family bike store of treasured childhood memories, Rooman and Julie handpick and test the products they sell. They only stock what they love in a store they have designed themselves; from The Movement’s pared-back logo and branding, to the rustic feel of the salvaged wood pallets that line the store’s walls.

The duo’s passion and enthusiasm for their store, urban riding and the environment is contagious. As a result they have fast built a very loyal and growing clientele of likeminded suppliers and city riders. “We feature brands that not only share our passion for urban riding but also have their own story to tell. Linus, for example, is a brand that we have admired for a number of years. Our range of bicycles and accessories suit wherever you need to go and whatever

emirates is an official sponsor of the Dubai Tour, a four-day professional cycling race that takes place in February. The second edition, which took place last month, was a magnificent display of cycling.

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you need to carry with you on your journey,” says Canadian-born Julie. Some of the brands stocked by The Movement include Linus accessories and bicycles from California, which are inspired by the clean lines of 1950s and 1960s French bicycles, “non-dorky” lightweight helmets from Vancouver based Sahn, and wicker bicycle baskets from the US brand Nantucket. “We wanted to build a lifestyle brand based around urban bicycles and ‘the ride’ rather than performance and competition. The vintage, contemporary look and feel

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of the brand and our space is an extension of this philosophy. That was one of the main discussion points my husband and I talked about before opening. We wanted it to feel genuine and real,” says Julie. “The space itself has qualities that we love. The energy that comes from the wooden bicycle frames we created for the window display is unique. The way the sun comes in in the morning and the beams of light that come in in the afternoon is picturesque. Couple this with the energy coming from our clients and it makes for an amazing experience; the whole

idea of hanging out, talking to people, sharing bicycle routes and journeys. It was important for us to have this community feel. Having that relationship with your local bicycle shop is wonderful and it’s what makes this all worthwhile.” But in a fast-growing and bustling city such as Dubai, what is the future for urban riding, and can it ever be a relaxing experience? Rooman and Julie are adamant that the answer is yes, citing the government’s drive to provide more and more cycle paths across the city. They believe urban bicycle

Having tHat relationship witH your local bicycle sHop is wonderful and it’s wHat makes tHis all worthwhile

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I thInk Dubai Is so much more bicycle frienDly than people gIve It credIt for riding in Dubai will continually become a safer and more rewarding experience. “Dubai is definitely advocating and establishing a better cycling infrastructure, and there is expected to be a huge amount of growth in the city’s cycling culture because of the ambition to make it one of the most bicycle friendly and sustainable cities in the region,” says Julie. “What has impressed us the most is the speed of progress. Dubai has already launched its own bike share scheme and new cycle routes have begun to

proliferate, so you can see that the Government recognises the scale of the opportunity; the change bike riding might bring to the city and people’s lives.” Rooman agrees. “I think Dubai is so much more bicycle friendly than people give it credit for. We both owned bicycles before moving to Dubai and brought our bicycles with us when we came. We take our bikes pretty much everywhere and even the traffic or hot summers cannot keep us off our bikes. My Linus bicycle is the best therapist, | 69 |

most potent anti-depressant and one of the best friends I ever had.” As for the future of The Movement, the husband and wife team say they just want to continue improving on what they’re doing. “The first four months since our launch have been overwhelming. We’ve always felt that a good part of our success isn’t measured in the number of bicycles we sell but in the satisfaction of meeting the good people who want to be part of The Movement,” says Julie with a smile. themovement.ae

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M A I N Once Upon A Time In Almeria, p72

ALM ONCE UPON

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MORE THAN 600 SPAGHETTI WESTERNS WERE SHOT IN THE ARID LANDSCAPE OF THE SOUTHEASTERN SPANISH PROVINCE OF ALMERIA IN THE 1960S AND EARLY 1970S. GEOFF BROKATE VISITED THE TABERNAS DESERT, WHERE HE CAPTURED THIS SELECTION OF SPECTACULAR IMAGES OF THE MANY SETS STILL STANDING

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or a decade during the mid-1960s, hidden away in the southeastern Spanish province of Almeria were the stirrings of a cinematic resurrection. Among the hot desert winds of the eroded badlands, a band of European filmmakers flocked to the Tabernas Desert, making it home to the Spaghetti Western. Its semiarid landscape emulated the American Arizona Desert and the northern Mexican border where the films’ scenarios were set. The success of the genre that became known as the Spaghetti Western rode on its audacity to show violence in a way that cinemagoers weren’t used to. It was exciting, raw and dangerous. It was as the Wild West was meant to be: where characters had unlimited bullets, no morals and lived in a lawless land. A place where even the good guys were bad. At a time when American audiences had turned towards television, the Western film genre had experienced a steady decline in cinemas. In 1964 Italian director Sergio Leone, now a cult figure who has inspired lauded directors such as Quentin Tarantino, paid a young unknown named Clint Eastwood US$15,000 to make the first of a trilogy of films that have now become ingrained in cinematic history. They oozed style, swaggering along to the rhythm of Ennio Morricone’s soundtracks. His haunting use of a solo whistle is now a cliché, synonymous with lone gunmen in a final ruthless shootout. Based on the success of his first film, A Fistful of Dollars, Leone now sought to build permanent sets for his second film, A Few Dollars More. This resulted in the creation of the Texas Hollywood and Western Leone film sets. Two styles of architecture were used, that of the American West with wooden structures, saloons and banks. Alongside these were Mexican pueblos made from adobe mud with open plazas and churches. These sets became the base for a caravan of European production companies as they flooded the Spanish desert in an attempt to emulate the success of Leone’s films. None were to ever achieve such heights; with more than 600 Westerns made around Almeria, Leone’s were the only films to be a box office success in America. American critics, inspired by the Japanese term for the films being produced by Leone and others, Macaroni Western, coined Spaghetti Western. While the name pointed to the fact that most of the European Westerns were being funded by Italian money, it was also intended with a dose of ridicule. The critics were often sceptical of the genre. They saw their own history and stories being hijacked by foreign productions that were made quickly and cheaply. With notoriously small budgets, production values suffered, the dialogue was out of sync and stories were often poorly edited and difficult to follow. In 1965, 20-year-old Dan van Husen saw his first Spaghetti Western in a cinema in Stockholm. It was Leone’s second film, and he could never have known that four years later he would go on and begin an acting career in the Tabernas Desert. Van Husen made 24 films in a seven-year period, and is the only Spaghetti Western actor aside from Clint Eastwood still working. “Nobody at the time felt that there was anything unique about what we were doing,” he says.

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Young and enthusiastic, van Husen was immune to the disorganisation that surrounded the productions. “There was enough to keep the actors happy, enough food and water, we stayed at the best hotel in Almeria,” he says. “After shooting we went into the bar, we never changed our clothes. Our drivers knew our room numbers, they came up and woke us up and we had to jump into our dirty clothes. A very good life. “Most of those Westerns I did with the Italians, I never saw a script. Apart from the director, cameraman and the leading actors nobody had a script.” Van Husen recalls the unorthodox methods used by directors who had to overcome language barriers in order to meet shooting schedules. “There were films where you had Spanish, Italian and German actors. As they were co-productions each actor just spoke in their own language. We just about managed to understand each other. The director would say, ‘You count to ten and act very angry.’ And then he would point to the other actor and say, ‘You answer by counting to ten very softly and quietly.’ ” The actors would film the scene counting in their own language and they would be overdubbed with the actual dialogue in postproduction – a method that resulted in poor dialogue sync, which wasn’t a problem for van Husen. “I thought acting was fabulous, I had to sit on a horse and count. That was my job,” he says. By 1975 the reign of the European Western had subsided, the scripts had become limp and were resorting to comedy. The latter films lacked the energy and tenacity of the early Leone films. Van Husen laments, “People lost interest when it became funny. The comedy aspect finished the Spaghetti Western. Sometimes I regret that I wasn’t born three years earlier. I would have liked to have been in one of Leone’s films.” It is a sentiment that resonates today in the Tabernas Desert. The old film sets that remain form a shadow of their glory days, where Henry Fonda once sat in the saloon playing poker or Jul Brenner rode his horse though the sandy valleys. Now owned by a local family and open to visitors, the locations still hold the romance of the Wild West. Despite being only 30km from Almeria, the sets feel remote and rugged and there is a scent of that freedom that Leone’s pioneering films dared to explore.

If you’re in the mood to watch a Western, then head to Film Club on ice digital widescreen for more than 50 classic movies, including westerns Rio Bravo, Butch Cassidy And The Sundance Kid and The Gunfighter.

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b r i e f i n g ICC Cricket World Cup 2015, p90 | Destination: New York, p98 | Route Map, p106

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ICC CrICket World Cup 2015 Q&A David Boon Emirates Elite Panel of ICC Match Referees What is the role of the match referee? In essence the role is to uphold the spirit of the game and ensure the match runs smoothly. The entire role is very enjoyable, especially the interaction with people from every part of the game, from players to administrators to match officials and, of course, our own staff at the ICC. Flying with Emirates isn’t too bad either.

Emirates is delivering a cricketing feast as part of its celebration of the ICC Cricket World Cup 2015, which takes place in Australia and New Zealand this month, finishing on March 29. Not only can fans follow matches during flights with live text updates, Emirates also boasts two channels dedicated to cricket as part of its awardwinning ice entertainment system. In celebration of the event, the carrier has introduced a number of ‘speciallydressed’ Emirates aircraft flying to Australia, New Zealand and around the globe. Emirates has been the official par tner of the International Cricket Council (ICC) and all its major tournaments,

including the ICC Cricket World Cup 2015, since 2007. During flights, cricket fans can keep up with the action through text updates on the Airshow moving map channels. On ice Digital Widescreen, the scores will be shown in the news headlines section. Cricket programming on ice includes Channel 1155, which features documentaries, highlights and player profiles, and Channel 1170, which boasts 26 programmes dedicated entirely to ICC cricket. The Emirates Lounges in Dubai and other locations around the world, will also be showing live-streamed games. icc-cricket.com

InCreased frequenCy to kolkata Emirates is adding a 13th weekly flight from Dubai to Kolkata, India, and will be offering a First Class service on the route for the first time. Beginning March 29 and operating on Wednesdays, EK 572 will depar t Dubai International Airpor t at 1pm and arrive at Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airpor t at 7.15pm. The return flight, EK 573, will depar t Kolkata at 8.30pm and arrive in Dubai at 0.05am. From the same date, Emirates will star t to operate a larger Boeing 777-200ER on the route as flight numbers EK 570 and EK 571, which will offer the carrier’s renowned First Class service. The new service and up-gauge will represent a capacity increase of 250 seats in each direction per week. | 90 |

You were man of the match in the 1987 ICC Cricket World Cup final victory against England. You must have a special place in your heart for the tournament. I do. To have been lucky enough to have played in two and to have been a part of a winning World Cup team. The win in Kolkata is one you never forget. Australia was in a stage of rebuilding and that success gave us the impetus to take that confidence into Test cricket.

How much do you miss your playing days? When cricket has been so much a part of your life you do miss it initially. You miss the excitement of playing and, yes, I think most of all your teammates. Being involved in the game and just not walking away helps with that transition from playing to the rest of your life.

What do you think of Australia’s chances in the ICC Cricket World Cup 2015? Obviously being an Australian I follow the Australian team’s progress and wish them every success. Australia has been playing some good one-day cricket in recent times and I think they will be in the mix at the end of this World Cup. This is one of the most open World Cups I have known for some time.

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greater capacity for chicago Staff Q&A Victor Siron Jr Paint Controller How long have you been a paint controller?

As of May 1, Emirates’ Chicago route will see an increase in capacity with the switch from a Boeing 777-200LR to the larger Boeing 777-300ER aircraft. Since launching in August last year, the route has already carried more than 66,000 passengers and 3,410 tonnes of cargo. The increase in capacity will offer 88 additional Economy Class seats, representing a 33 per cent increase in seating capacity. Hubert Frach, Emirates’ Divisional Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations West – Americas, Africa, Europe and

Russian Federation said the carrier had seen “steady growth and strong customer demand for the Chicago route”. “Chicago is home to 2.7 million residents, making it America’s thirdlargest city,” he continued. “By increasing capacity in this market, we are able to offer more ways for passengers and businesses to connect, not only with our home and hub Dubai, but also across Emirates’ global network including the airline’s network of 10 cities in India, 17 in the Far East and 24 points in Africa.”

new a380 routes Emirates has announced additional A380 services to two European destinations, and one to Australia. The carrier will be the first airline to operate scheduled A380 services to Dusseldorf, on July 1, and Madrid, on August 1, bringing the total number of European gateways served by Emirates’ A380, the world’s largest passenger aircraft, to 13. The A380 is also heading to Perth as of May 1, the airline announcing that it will upgauge one of its three daily services between Dubai and Perth to its flagship aircraft. Emirates has 59 A380s in its fleet, flying to 34 destinations globally and serving customers with a range of industry-leading onboard features.

get to your gate on time

I have been an aircraft painter for 13 years. I currently work in Emirates’ Paint Shop, leading a team of ar tists and painters responsible for the interiors and exteriors of aircraft painting during C and A checks. I also sometimes suppor t Line Maintenance with paint repairs, decals and marking.

What is the best thing about your job? Seeing a newly painted aircraft released back to the fleet, looking immaculate! I also enjoy seeing the inside of the cabin looking spotless.

What is your proudest working moment so far? In 2010, I led a team that painted the A380 Business Class seat back shells. This was a big challenge, as it has to be done in-situ, with a number of constraints. The job was completed on time and the finishing was excellent.

460 LITRES

Quantity of paint required to paint a Boeing 777

Don't miss your flight Please make sure you get to your boarding gate on time. Boarding starts 45 minutes before your flight and gates close 20 minutes before departure. If you report late we will not be able to accept you for travel.

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it is now possible to donate to the Emirates airline Foundation online through the website emiratesairlinefoundation.org Simply click through from the homepage to make a secure contribution by credit card. For each contribution you will be emailed a receipt for your records. The Emirates Airline Foundation sponsors dozens of projects in more than 10 countries worldwide, helping to provide education, health care, shelter, food and clean water to children in need. Projects include the Emirates-Friendship floating hospital, which brings much-needed medical ser vices to remote villages in Bangladesh, and the Emirates-CHES Home, a school and home for HIV positive children in Chennai, India. On board all Emirates flights, you can donate spare change in the donation envelope in your seat pocket where you will also find the foundation’s newsletter. Donations are accepted in any currency. You can also donate Skywards Miles, which are used to sponsor flights for doctors, engineers and other professionals travelling on humanitarian missions around the world. The Emirates Airline Foundation ensures that ever y donation is used to help improve the lives of underprivileged children across the globe. emiratesairlinefoundation.org

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ON THE MOVE Emirates SkyCargo is leading the way in getting all manner of items to where they need to be. And with the Dubai World Cup fast approaching, a whole host of the world’s best racehorses being transported to Dubai Words: jamie Knights

emirates skyCargo is responsible for moving all sorts of items, from beautiful flowers for Valentine’s day to the most exotic of supercars for motor races. The 20th Dubai World Cup on March 28 means that horses are now on the move with Emirates. Depending on the customer’s requirements, three horses are loaded into each horse stall or air stall, although some are given a stall all to themselves (a horse version of Business Class or First Class travel). Emirates’ Boeing 777F can carr y up to 72 horses, and with its unique nine-seat configuration for accommodating passengers, grooms are able to travel with the horses to ensure the comfor t of the animals. Last year alone saw the transpor tation of more than 500 horses across the globe – just one of the many extraordinary facts that accompanies the history of Emirates SkyCargo. The first Emirates flight took off in 1985 from Dubai to Karachi, Pakistan, carr ying both cargo and passengers, in a year that saw a humble 2,000 tonnes of cargo delivered. Six years later, a landing slot was secured at London Heathrow, and by 1995 the first dedicated freighter depar ted from Amsterdam to Hong Kong, via Dubai. By 1998, SkyCargo had moved from carr ying 2,000 tonnes annually to 200,000, the equivalent of 1,000 blue whales. But the journey was only just beginning, and in 2001 the first cargo hub was opened in Dubai, with the ability to

handle more than 400,000 tonnes of cargo per year. And in 2008 a cargo mega terminal opened at DXB with the capacity to handle more than 3,000 tonnes of cargo a day. Since then, SkyCargo has moved V8 supercars and equipment to the Australian leg of the 2010 V8 championship series and, in 2012, more than 100 horses were transpor ted from Muscat for the procession through London for Queen Elizabeth II’s Jubilee Celebrations. As an added boost for those in need of freight transpor tation, Emirates SkyCargo has launched an internally developed LD3 container that keeps temperature sensitive cargo cool on the ground and in the air. Referred to as the “White Container”, it’s the latest addition to Emirates SkyCargo’s Cool Chain por tfolio, and has been designed specifically as an intermediate temperature control solution, which is ideal for healthcare products and perishable goods. The inside of the White Container is coated with thermal insulators and can be used for shipments requiring temperatures between 2°C 8°C and 5°C - 25°C. Emirates SkyCargo provides belly hold cargo ser vices to more than 140 destinations around the world, using cargo hold capacity in Emirates’ fleet of more than 225 aircraft. And with new ser vices and technology constantly being introduced, the sky is no longer the limit when it comes to what can be carried.

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EMIRATES SKYCARGO IN NUMBERS

72 EMIRATES’ BOEING 777F CAN CARRY UP TO 72 HORSES

500 250 100 NUMBER OF HORSES EMIRATES SKYCARGO TRANSPORTED ACROSS THE GLOBE IN 2014

140+ 14 NUMBER OF DESTINATIONS EMIRATES SKYCARGO PROVIDES BELLY HOLD CARGO SERVICES TO

DEDICATED CARGO AIRCRAFT IN THE EMIRATES FLEET

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AVERAGE NUMBER OF CARS EMIRATES SKYCARGO TRANSPORTS EACH YEAR TO DESTINATIONS ACROSS EMIRATES’ GLOBAL NETWORK

NUMBER OF HORSES TRANSPORTED FROM MUSCAT FOR THE PROCESSION THROUGH LONDON FOR QUEEN ELIZABETH II’S JUBILEE CELEBRATIONS IN 2012

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500

NUMBER OF TRUCKS AT EMIRATES SKYCARGO FACILITY AT AL MAKTOUM INTERNATIONAL (DWC)

NUMBER OF STAFF AT EMIRATES SKYCARGO FACILITY AT AL MAKTOUM INTERNATIONAL (DWC)

D E e sm t i i rn aa tt Ei o s n n GE uwi D s e

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D E S T I N A T I O N

NEW YORK Emirates launches its fourth daily service to New York this month on March 8. The new flight is also the third daily non-stop A380 service between Dubai and the Big Apple. Enjoy our guide to the city It’s no wonder that so many legendary directors, such as Nora Ephron and Woody Allen, have been inspired here. That’s why for a lot of people, as soon as their flight to New York touches down, feel like they’ve stepped onto the set of a movie. From the yellow taxis hustling from street to street, to the Manhattan skyline dominated by the Empire State Building, there’s something about the place that feels familiar even if you’re travelling to New York for the first time.

Simply put, New York City has it all. Downtown, there’s the centre of world finance on Wall Street, which gives way to the commerce and chaos of Times Square in Midtown. Then there are the green spaces of Central Park and the affluent homes of the Upper East Side fur ther up the island of Manhattan. And that’s not forgetting Brooklyn, a centre for culture where you’ll find everything from the best new bands to the coolest new restaurants.

EAT

STAY

DO

BALTHAZAR RESTAURANT This Keith McNally institution in the heart of Soho is almost two decades old but the beautiful people still brunch here regularly. Housed in a former leather wholesaler’s warehouse, the fancy, open dining room is inviting yet chic. Come here for lunch after you’ve hit the shops on Broadway. balthazarny.com

STANDARD HOTEL, HIGH LINE This 18-storey building towers over the High Line, offering 360-degree views across Manhattan and over the Hudson River. The Standard Grill and the Biergarten are popular with the city’s young and hip. standardhotels.com/high-line

THE HIGH LINE Take an abandoned, elevated train track, add US$150 million and hire landscape geniuses Diller Scofidio + Renfro. What do you get? One of the most unique parks on the planet. There’s a free walking tour every Tuesday and Saturday. thehighline.org

THE CECIL This lively restaurant is the first in New York to serve up Afro/ Asian/American fusion food. If you think that’s a mouthful, just try the oxtail dumplings or the fried guinea hen, both of which pay homage to the restaurant’s Harlem roots. A real hidden gem in New York. thececilharlem.com

WYTHE HOTEL This stylish hotel actually used to be a factory, and you can see hints of its past in the authentic fixtures and the exposed beams. It’s been thoroughly modernised now though, with gorgeous rooms, a screening theatre and the ever-so-fancy Reynard restaurant. Wear your best threads for this trendy Williamsburg spot. wythehotel.com

GENUINE ROADSIDE IN GOTHAM WEST MARKET Fancy food courts are having a moment in the states right now – jump on the bandwagon at Gotham West Market. In the space, nothing beats The Classic Burger from Genuine Roadside, which is as good and as simple as burgers come. This is 21st century Americana. genuineroadside.com

ACE HOTEL NEW YORK This international chain opened its New York branch in 2009 and it’s still one of the most fun places in the city. Choose from a variety of rooms, but know that you’ll probably spend most of your time in the lounge downstairs where the cool kids come to party. (They’ll be jealous of your key upstairs for sure). acehotel.com/newyork

WALK THE WILLIAMSBURG BRIDGE The Brooklyn Bridge might be more iconic, but the Williamsburg Bridge has brilliant views without the crowds, combining lower Manhattan with the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. VISIT PROSPECT PARK Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux took what they learned designing Central Park and applied it to this 585-acre space in Brooklyn. Walk the 5km drive that circles the space or wander through the fields and wooded paths to beautiful lakeside views. Don’t miss the Brooklyn Botanical Garden right across the street. prospectpark.org

EMIRATES STAFF TIPS: SALON DE NING

“Head to The Peninsula and its opulent rooftop venue Salon De Ning for a drink, which you can enjoy while taking in the spectacular views of Manhattan.”

Lorna Juliette Hills Leisure Travel Officer

IRIDIUM JAZZ CLUB

“Some of my favourite places are the Iridium Jazz Club in Times Square and Restaurant Row on 47/49th Street, which features virtually every type of ethnic food there is.”

Kathleen Ryan Senior Customer Service Agent

Starting March 8, Emirates new fourth daily service to New York will be operated by an Airbus A380-800 as EK 207, departing Dubai at 14:50 hours and arriving at New York JFK at 20:35 hours. The return flight, EK 208 will depart JFK at 16:30 hours and arrive in Dubai at 13:15 the following day.

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C O M F O R T

WELLNESS IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

Talk freely Low cost international and national calls PLUS

Great value bundles for mobile internet

Present your boarding pass at one of the below locations to get your FREE prepaid SIM with credit * UK: WHSmith store at Birmingham, Heathrow & Manchester Arrivals Netherlands: Lebara stand at Amsterdam Schiphol Plaza (located near the arrival exits 3 or 4) Australia: Lebara Stand at Sydney International airport (located at arrival exits AB & CD) Denmark: WHSmith store at Copenhagen Arrivals Always by your side Australia

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France

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Germany

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*Terms and conditions apply at lebara.com. Credit included with your FREE SIM will be: £1 in the UK, €1 in the NL, $1 in Australia & 10 DKK in Denmark.

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Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure. ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 102 |

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Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card. You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 103 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport, UAE Emirates ID card or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your UAE Emirates ID card, E-Gate card or machine-readable passport ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, you can scan your UAE Emirates ID card. If you have an E-Gate card place it into the E-Gate slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 104 |

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • UAE Emirates ID cards • E-Gate cards

Your home in Dubai

• • • • • • • •

Located in the heart of Dubai Opposite Metro Station Walking distance to Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest skyscraper Dubai Airport - 15 min Abu Dhabi Airport - 45 min Walking distance to shopping malls Close to Business Hubs (DIFC and DWTC) Spa and Outdoor Swimming Pool

Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O Box 116957 Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 323 0000 | Fax: +971 4 323 0003 www.emiratesgrandhotel.com

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DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD P.O. BOX: 9055, DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 330 4343 | FAX: +971 4 330 3993 [email protected] | www.emiratesadvocates.com ABU DHABI Tel: +971 2 6394446 [email protected]

RAS AL KHAIMAH Tel: +971 7 2046719 [email protected]

DUBAI INTERNET CITY Tel: +971 4 3900820 [email protected]

SHARJAH Tel: +971 6 5728666 [email protected]

JEBEL ALI Tel: +971 4 8871679 [email protected]

DIFC Tel: +971 4 4019562 [email protected]

WITH AFFILIATE OFFICES IN SAUDI ARABIA, QATAR, BAHRAIN, KUWAIT AND OMAN

FOR 24 HOUR LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL +971 (50) 328 99 99

R O U T E

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M A P

THE FLEET Our fleet contains 234 aircraft made up of 220 passenger aircraft and 14 cargo aircraft BOEING 777-300ER

Emirates is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft, which joined the fleet in 2005.

Number of Aircraft: 103 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-300

Since 1999, Emirates operates two and three-class versions of the 777-300.

Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR

Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m

BOEING 777-200

In 2005, the Boeing 777-200LR set a new world record for distance travelled non-stop when it landed at Heathrow airport, London, after a journey of 21,601km (11,664 nautical miles) from Hong Kong - the long way round. Emirates received its first 777-200LR in August 2007.

Emirates’ first Boeing 777-200 joined the fleet in 1996.

Number of Aircraft: 7 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m

BOEING 777F

Number of Aircraft: 12 Range: 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 112 |

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparablysized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

AIRBUS A380-800

Emirates has operated the A380 since 2008, and is the world’s largest operator of this aircraft. In 2014, 13 Emirates A380s joined the fleet.

Number of Aircraft: 59 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-500

This ultra-long range passenger airliner was introduced to the Emirates fleet in 2003. This saw the launch of the First Class Suite which has since been rolled out on the Boeing 777 and Airbus A380.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m

AIRBUS A340-300

Similar in many respects to Emirates A330-200s, the A340-300 is equipped with four engines giving it an enhanced range.

Number of Aircraft: 4 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200

First added to the fleet in 1999, this aircraft operates predominately on shorter-haul routes.

Number of Aircraft: 21 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m

BOEING 747-400ERF

Number of Aircraft: 2 Range:9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Aircraft numbers through end March 2015 | 113 |

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

E n t E r t a i n m E n t

CAPTION COmPeTITION

E-mail your captions for this cartoon to [email protected] with ‘CAPTION COMP’ in the subject line. The winning caption will be published in the April issue. WINNeR: mARIA Núñez, 29, LIbrArIAN, MAdrId

“Forget Paleo! I’ve gone MesozoIc” | 114 |

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