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New Wines from California's Central Coast

ISSUE 159, NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2011

Josh Raynolds Mother Nature has been playing games with California's Central Coast in recent vintages, and this fall things have been especially nervewracking, especially in vineyards planted to late-ripening varieties. At press-time much fruit was still hanging, which makes this the latest harvest on record for many vineyards. On top of that, severe frosts in early spring dramatically reduced yields in many sites; for example, more than half of Paso Robles' 26,000 acres were affected by frost between April 8 and 10, and some vineyards will produce no fruit at all. Two thousand ten was a relatively benign vintage aside from a damp, chilly spring and a cool summer, which slowed the growing season and set the stage for one of the latest harvests ever, until this year. Some producers told me that 2010 was the coolest growing season since 1998. The good news is that heat spikes in late August and early September (temperatures soared to almost 110 degrees in Paso Robles) helped to kick up sugars, after which the weather cooled back down and stayed that way into October, allowing the vines to be picked at leisure, or at least until the serious rain and cold weather hit in late October. Those weren't issues for pinot noir and chardonnay, by the way, which had long been harvested by then. Every producer I spoke with this fall was pleased with 2009, describing the year as a textbook, often cool growing season, with sugars advancing smoothly and no serious drops in acidity leading up to the harvest. An early September burst of heat helped push grape sugars up and no significant rain came until the middle of October, by which time almost all pinot and chardonnay had been harvested. That fruit was extremely healthy. Warm, even hot weather returned after the rain and late-ripening varieties could then be harvested into November. There are still a number of 2008 red wines coming into the market, especially those based on cabernet sauvigon, and they tend to show the effects of this low-yielding vintage, which was seriously affected by severe spring frosts. The wines tend to be on the rich side, with deep, concentrated flavors and serious power, but without the superripe character of many 2007s. A welcome development in the Central Coast is the growing number of entry-level bottlings from upper-tier producers, wines that are often made with at least some purchased grapes. Much of the fruit comes from high-quality sites and was originally intended to wind up in high-end wines, but that's a slow-moving category now, to say the least. This means that wineries are now able to buy grapes from many carefully planted and tended vineyards at prices that are often far below their intended value, which translates into excellent wines at fair prices, at least in theory. But don't expect to see bargain prices for wines made from grapes sourced from blue-chip Central Coast vineyards any time soon, as that fruit is still in very high demand. A number of producers told me this year that one way they're dealing with the sluggish market is by relying more heavily on direct sales to consumers, either at tasting rooms or via mailing lists. The logic is that while their market presence may be compromised by limited distribution to retailers and restaurants around the country, they can keep more profit if they sell straight to the end buyer at a lower price than the buyer would be charged at a wine shop. With wine consumers becoming more and more cost-conscious, this strategy makes sense, at least for the short term. Still, quite a few wineries, especially the smaller ones, say that they remain loyal to the traditional three-tier system of producer-wholesaler-retailer. The little guys usually can't afford to have their own sales forces and must rely on wholesalers to keep their wines in the public eye.

Booker Vineyard

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Eric Jensen continues to focus more energy on his winemaking practices as he's confident about the vineyard regimen, "at least with the human element, which is all that we can control." Only native yeasts are used here. Jensen says he's paying a lot of attention to the wood and is especially fond of 500-liter casks, "which help minimize the wood tannins and slow down the ferments." The fruit that grows on his 42-acre rolling hillside vineyard "is what matters, not the wood." He told me that he's really picky about the casks that wind up here. "You can screw up a whole year of work almost instantly if the wood isn't top-notch and completely clean." 2010 White Wine Paso Robles ($50) (75% roussanne and 25% viognier, made with 20 days of skin contact): Pale gold. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes fresh pear, nectarine and citrus fruits, with suave floral notes and a hint of fresh ginger. Deep in pit fruit and floral flavor but lithe and precise, with excellent clarity and stony cut. Finishes firm and dry, with a lingering note of candied citrus zest. This got a tiny bit of oak--"about 5%," according to Jensen, and everything else was done in concrete. 92 2009 Oublie Paso Robles ($60) (one-third each grenache, counoise and mourvedre): Vivid ruby. Red and dark berry aromas show impressive clarity, with notes of licorice, lavender and rose contributing complexity. Big and densely packed but light on its feet, offering intense raspberry, boysenberry and spice flavors. Juicy and precise on the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity. This wine's marriage of power and vivacity is impressive. 92 2009 Syrah Vertigo Paso Robles ($60) (48% grenache, 35% syrah and 17% mourvedre): Deep ruby. Sexy, palate-coating raspberry and blackberry flavors are complicated by Asian spices, smoke and cola. Broad, silky and alluringly sweet, with striking intensity to its deep red and dark fruit and candied rose flavors. Shows outstanding energy and focus on the long, seamless, resoundingly spicy finish. 92 2009 Syrah Fracture Paso Robles ($65) (100% syrah): Deep ruby with a bright rim. Intense, smokeaccented aromas of black and blue fruits, olive tapenade, violet and Indian spices, with a hint of licorice in the background. Lush, creamy and expansive, boasting striking intensity to its sweet blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Stains the palate and finishes with excellent clarity and lingering sappiness. 92 2009 The Alchemist Paso Robles ($60) (65% syrah, 15% cabernet sauvignon and 10% each of petit verdot and grenache): Deep, glass-staining ruby. A sexy, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes dark berry preserves, cherry-cola, Asian spices and violet. No way I'd have guessed that syrah was the dominant variety in this lively wine, and I mean that in a positive way. Lithe and precise, given its size, with pure black raspberry and floral pastille flavors that stain the palate. A pure and focused blend with seductive finishing florality and superb length. 92 2009 Tempranillo Paso Robles ($60) Deep ruby. Candied cherry, flowers, woodsmoke and cured tobacco on the assertively perfumed nose. Deep, broad and velvety, with impressive depth and sweetness to its cherry and cassis flavors. Picks up spiciness and notes of vanilla and bitter chocolate with air and finishes with excellent clarity and lingering spiciness. I like this wine's balance. 91

Adelaida Cellars 2010 Chardonnay Hmr Estate Paso Robles ($40) Green-tinged gold. Musky, floral and powerful on the nose, showing an array of tropical fruit and floral qualities. The supple and palate-coating, with ripe pineapple and mango flavors complemented by notes of bitter pear skin and toasty oak. Finishes broad and smooth, with lingering smoke and tropical fruit notes. 88 2009 Viognier The Glenrose Vineyard Paso Robles ($30) Bright gold. Musky peach pit and flowers on the nose, with complicating notes of honey, lees and quinine. Palate-coating citrus and pit fruit flavors pick up smokiness with air, along with a touch of anise. Fruit-driven and silky in texture, with good finishing cling and resonating spiciness. 89 2008 Pinot Noir Hmr Estate Paso Robles ($35) Ruby-red. Cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by notes of underbrush and anise. In a rich, ripe style, with good depth and breadth to its bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors. Finishes on a smoky, slightly warm note, with good cling and a hint of cherry compote. 88 2008 Version Red Wine Paso Robles ($34) (48% mourvedre, 30% syrah, 13% grenache and 9% counoise): Deep ruby. Dried cherry, licorice and smoky herbs on the nose. Sappy and precise, with juicy acidity giving lift to the flavors of bitter cherry, licorice and smoky minerals. Finishes firm and long, with an herbal note, firm tannins and a touch of candied dark berries. 88

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2008 Syrah Anna's Estate Vineyard Paso Robles ($28) Bright purple. Powerful aromas of blueberry, blackberry, olive and Indian spices. Displays textbook syrah flavors of smoky dark berries, olive and candied flowers. Seductive right now but building tannins suggest that this wine will age slowly. The finish repeats the smoke and floral notes and hangs on tenaciously. 90 2008 Syrah Reserve Viking Estate Vineyard Paso Robles ($65) Bright purple. Fragrant bouquet evokes black and blue fruits, violet and smoky Indian spices. Lush and creamy in texture, with very good depth to its dark fruit preserve flavors. Silky tannins add shape and grip to the long, juicy, very energetic finish. 91 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($32) Vivid ruby. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose, with notes of licorice and cracked pepper adding complexity. Supple and seamless on the palate, showing good depth to its sappy dark fruit flavors. Becomes spicier with air and finishes on a sweet floral pastille note. This is already drinking nicely. 88 2008 Zinfandel Michael's Estate Vineyard Paso Robles ($32) Bright ruby. A pungent bouquet evokes dark berries, tobacco and vanilla, with a spicy nuance gaining strength with air. Fresh and energetic on the palate, showing a velvety texture and juicy blackberry and cassis flavors. The smoky finish features very good clarity and bite. 90

Brewer-Clifton The long, cool growing season of 2010 allowed Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton to make chardonnays that "are plenty ripe, thanks to some late season heat, but with real energy," according to Brewer. As usual, these wines were raised in neutral wood, in accordance with the winery's philosophy that barrels are a vessel, not a flavoring medium. While both Brewer and Clifton are ardent fans of white Burgundy, especially Chablis, they make no claims that their wines are "Burgundian." "Burgundy is an inspiration but you can't copy it, not here, anyway." Clifton said. As for the 2009 pinots, they were fermented with 100% whole clusters; saw long, drawn-out fermentations; and aged in little or no new oak, as usual. Production was off thanks to spring frosts and the lower yields show in the power and depth of these wines That said, the fruit intensity of the '09 Brewer-Clifton pinots makes most of them very seductive right now. 2010 Chardonnay 3-D Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($52) (100% chardonnay): Green-tinged gold. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes pear skin, melon, honey and toasty lees, plus a strong note of iodine. Pungent, palate-staining and deep, with smoky orchard fruit flavors and notes of anise, saffron and chamomile. One of the most impressive New World sparkling wines I have ever tasted, with the type of complexity that many Tete de Cuvee Champagnes can only hint at. Finishes spicy, smoky and very long, with the smoke, melon and anise notes echoing. 92 2010 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills ($36) Light gold. Musky, spice-accented aromas of pear, melon and honeysuckle, with a strong note of toasty lees. Smoky and broad but vibrant, with impressive depth to its orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Spicy and precise on the impressively long finish, which strongly echoes the smoke and floral notes. 92 2009 Chardonnay 3-D Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($42) Bright gold. Fresh pear and tangerine on the nose, with complicating notes of clove, chamomile and white pepper. Deep and chewy in texture, offering intense citrus zest and orchard fruit flavors that gain weight with air. Finishes broad but focused, with a repeating tangerine note. This wine deserves patience. 92(+?) 2010 Chardonnay Gnesa Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Vivid yellow. High-pitched citrus fruits on the nose, with slow-building smokiness and complicating notes of candied ginger, jasmine and iodine. Sharply focused Meyer lemon and quince flavors stretch out with air and pick up weight. Deeper pear and melon flavors come up on the finish, which lingers with impressive intensity and mineral-driven persistence. 93 2010 Chardonnay Sea Smoke Sta. Rita Hills ($52) Bright, green-tinged gold. Powerful orchard fruit

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and orange marmalade aromas and flavors, with intense spice and anise qualities and a touch of agave. Deeply pitched but lively pear and lemon curd flavors pick up spiciness with air, along with a sweet butter nuance. The rather smoky finish shows outstanding clarity and resonating spiciness. For a big wine this is quite lithe. 92 2010 Chardonnay Sweeney Canyon Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($52) Vivid yellow-gold. High-pitched aromas of fresh orchard fruits, minerals, honeysuckle and white pepper show serious power and focus. Deep, palate-staining and precise, with impressive thrust to its pear and Meyer lemon flavors. Picks up smoke and iodine qualities with air, along with suggestions of licorice and chamomile. Rich but lively and incisive, with superb finishing clarity and lingering florality. This just refuses to let up, which is no problem for me. Wow! 93 2010 Chardonnay Mount Carmel Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($52) Vivid gold. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays scents of candied lime, lemongrass, anise, iodine and ginger. Deeply pitched but energetic, with precise, incisive citrus and orchard fruit flavors that pick up smoke and floral nuances with air. Shows a tangy, stony note on the finish, which emphatically repeats the lime and ginger notes. This is still a baby but shows terriffic potential. 93(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills ($36) Vivid red. Pure, energetic aromas of strawberry and raspberry, with sexy floral and spice notes adding complexity. Juicy and precise, with good depth and a seamless texture to its spicy red fruit flavors. Closes on a nervy note, with lingering spiciness and excellent persistence. This drinks very well right now. There's a lot of this to go around--almost 40,000 bottles, in fact. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Zotovich Sta. Rita Hills ($46) Bright red. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes red fruit preserves, Asian spices and woodsmoke, with a sexy note of rose pastille in the background. Juicy and expansive on the palate, with very good depth to its sappy black raspberry and cherry flavors. The rose note gains strength with air and lingers on the long, spicy, clean finish. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Vivid ruby-red. High-pitched aromas of red berries, rose, Asian spices and incense. Fresh and racy on entry, then deeper in the mid-palate, offering sweet, seamless, expansive cherry-cola and black raspberry flavors. A ripe but extremely energetic pinot that finishes with outstanding clarity, length and lingering florality. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Sta. Rita Hills ($52) Full ruby. An explosively aromatic bouquet displays red and dark berries, Asian spices, rose and minerals. Deeply concentrated but also energetic, offering spicy raspberry, mulberry and bitter cherry flavors and picking up a candied floral note with air. Finishes with noteworthy focus and mineral-driven lift, with the floral and spicy qualities repeating strongly. This sexy wine is delicious right now but I'd let it rest for at least a few more years. 94 2009 Pinot Noir Ampelos Sta. Rita Hills ($52) Bright ruby-red. Powerful, spice-accented aromas of black raspberry, cherry and sassafras. Bitter cherry and dark berry flavors stain the palate and show serious structure as well as energy. Extremely young but promising pinot with excellent finishing thrust and spicy persistence. Like the 3-D bottling, this really deserves patience. 92(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir 3-D Sta. Rita Hills ($52) Deep ruby. Aromas of blackberry, incense, anise and Asian spices. Juicy, sappy and deeply fruity, with red and dark berry, mineral and floral pastille flavors enlivened by juicy acidity. Vibrant and light on its feet, with excellent focus and back-end cut. Elegant, flavorful wine, finishing with firm tannins, solid grip and outstanding persistence. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Melville Sta. Rita Hills ($56) Bright red. Intensely perfumed bouquet offers red fruit and floral scents, along with notes of star anise, cinnamon and smoky minerals. Bright and energetic in the mouth, with excellent clarity and power to its strawberry and raspberry preserve flavors. Tangy acidity adds lift and bite to the very long, sweet, spice-accented finish. I really like this wine's graceful, balanced character. 94 2009 Pinot Noir Mount Carmel Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($56) Vivid ruby. High-pitched, pure, floralaccented aromas of red berries, Asian spices, blood orange and potpourri. Concentrated, lithe and precise, offering juicy raspberry, cherry and rose pastille flavors and a seamless, silky texture. Finishes sappy, sweet and very long, with resonating floral and spice notes. This sexy wine is delicious right now. 93

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Alban Vineyards 2010 Viognier Alban Estate Vineyard Edna Valley ($48) Bright gold. Deeply pitched aromas of orange pith, poached pear, iodine and salty minerals. Palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors show an almost viscous texture and but are nicely enlivened by juicy acidity. Becomes spicier with air, displaying serious intensity but also surprising energy for a wine carrying 15.8% alcohol. Closes on a stony note, with strong finishing cut and sappy persistence. 92 2007 Syrah Reva Alban Estate Edna Valley ($94) Inky purple. Black and blue fruits on the nose and in the mouth, with smoke and Indian spice nuances adding complexity. Densely packed and forceful, with building notes of candied licorice and mocha. This very rich, seamless wine shows very good energy in the mid-palate. A candied violet quality comes up on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity. 94 2009 Grenache Alban Estate Vineyard Edna Valley ($94) Deep ruby-red. Vibrant red berries and spices on the nose and in the mouth. Sappy and focused, with slow-building tannins that are absorbed by the dense raspberry and cherry fruit. 92-95 2009 Syrah Reva Alban Estate Edna Valley ($94) Inky purple. Blackberry and blueberry on the nose, with notes of violet and lavender adding complexity. Juicy and intensely flavored, with excellent depth and clarity. Closes sweet and very long, with gentle tannins and lingering spiciness. 92-95 2009 Syrah Lorraine Estate Edna Valley ($145) Glass-staining ruby. Brighter and higher-pitched than the Reva, offering an array of exotic red berry preserve and floral scents and flavors. Big but balanced syrah, finishing with outstanding thrust and persistent spiciness. 93-96 2008 Reva Syrah Alban Estate Vineyard Edna Valley ($94) Opaque ruby. Primary, pungent aromas of candied dark berries, licorice and cola, with an overtone of peppery spices. Shows excellent depth and breath but comes off as quite energetic, with intense black raspberry and boysenberry flavors lifted by tangy acidity. The spicy note repeats on the very long, clinging finish. 93-94

Cargasacchi This was my first time to taste with Peter Cargasacchi, whose family vineyard at the western end of the Sta. Rita Hills supplies fruit to Bonaccorsi and Brewer-Clifton, among others. In fact, wines made from that fruit have been some of the best I've tasted from those notable producers. This September I had the chance to spend a morning driving and walking through his vineyard and surrounding sites before tasting with him in his tiny facility in Lompoc. To call Cargasacchi a wealth of knowledge on the Sta. Rita Hills is a gross understatement as he, along with Wes Hagen (Clos Pepe) were responsible for creating the petition that led to the creation of the AVA in 1998. That, plus the fact that his family has been farming in the area for over a century. Cargasacchi is a thoughtful and soft-spoken guy but getting him going on the subject of terroir can be an entertaining exercise as he isn't short on opinions. Chief among his views is that "too many flawed wines, especially from Europe, have been able to get away with being screwed up by hiding behind the smokescreen of terroir. It's been a way to make excuses for bad viticulture and bad cellar practices. Of course, where a vine grows and what type of soil it's planted on and its exposure matter, a lot, but good farming and getting proper ripeness is the real essence of making good wine," he told me. "You can have the most perfect spot for a vine on earth but if you don't take care of it, you can forget about making decent wine." 2009 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($40) Vivid red. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of red fruit preserves, potpourri and spicecake. Round and seamless, with very good depth to its raspberry and cherry-cola flavors. Primary but already delicious, finishing with excellent lift and length. Give this youthful wine at least another couple years of bottle age or decant it. 90(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi-Jalama Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($20) Bright red. Red and dark berries on the fragrant nose and in the mouth, with musky herb and anise notes adding complexity. Velvety and open-knit, with sappy raspberry and blackberry flavors braced by juicy acidity. Closes on a refreshingly spicy note, with impressive clarity, cut and persistence. 90 2008 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Sta. Rita Hills ($40) Deep red. Ripe cherry and candied plum on the pungent, spice-accented nose. Deeply pitched and chewy on entry, then livelier in the mid-palate, with very good intensity to its sappy cherry and dark berry flavors. This smooth, velvety pinot finishes with

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lingering licorice and bitter cherry flavors and gripping tannins. I'd let this wine rest a bit more or decant it for a couple of hours. 90(+?) 2007 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($40) Bright red. Seductive aromas of black raspberry, cherry compote, sassafras and candied flowers. Deeply pitched, spice-accented cherry and dark berry flavors show very good energy and gain sweetness with air. Finishes long and spicy, with echoes of flowers and musky herbs. This wine appears to be entering its drinking window. 89 2007 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi-Jalama Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($40) Full red. A smokeaccented bouquet displays scents of black raspberry, cola and licorice, plus a hint of cherry pit. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors gain energy with air and pick up a brighter raspberry quality. Finishes with gently gripping tannins and a persistent note of spicy dark berries. In a rich style but vibrant as well. 89 2009 Pinot Grigio Invincible Sun Cargasacchi-Jalama Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($28) (lateharvested, with no botrytis; 14.5 degrees Brix residual sugar and 16.3% alcohol): Yellow-gold. Highpitched, spice-accented aromas of pit fruits, melon and honey, with a suave floral overtone. Broad, sappy and seamless, with intense peach and ginger flavors and slow-building smokiness. A bright note of citrus pith adds lift and cut to the sweet, strikingly persistent finish. Very energetic for a late-harvest wine; this would be great with blue cheeses or a terrine of foie gras. 92

Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($19) Light gold. Peach, honey and an herbal note on the lively nose. Taut and energetic, with good focus and concentration to its flavors of peach, pineapple, honey and mint. Tangy acidity adds cut and a slightly tart edge to the bright, linear finish.

87 2009 Chardonnay El Jabila Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($28) Bright yellow-gold. Peach pit, honey and herbs on the pungent nose. Broad and fleshy but dry, with powerful orchard and pit fruit flavors and complicating notes of tarragon and mace. Packs a serious punch but shows very good structure, finishing long and sappy, with a note of dried pear. For a big wine this shows little in the way of excess fat. 90 2010 Pinot Noir Vin Gris El Jabali Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($20) Light orange-pink. Redcurrant, strawberry and orange zest on the nose. A spicy, modestly fleshy midweight with a smooth texture and gently spicy red berry character. Finishes slightly warm, with good breadth and spicy persistence. This could be served with richer foods, even grilled red meats. 88 2009 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills ($32) Bright ruby-red. Cherry, licorice and herbs on the pungent nose. Juicy, focused red fruit flavors show good structure and notes of bitter chocolate and cracked pepper. Finishes taut and slightly hard-edged, with a repeating cherry note. 88 2009 Pinot Gris La Encantada Sta. Rita Hills ($42) Bright ruby-red. Fresh red berries and Asian spices on the fragrant nose. Sappy and expressive, with tangy acidity giving clarity and verve to the lively raspberry and cherry flavors. Very fresh pinot with impressive spicy persistence. This wine drinks nicely now but has the depth and balance to reward patience. 90

Clos Pepe Estate Wes Hagen told me he believes that "pH is everything when it comes to pinot noir" and that he shoots to make wines that "fall into the 3.30 to 3.35 range," which is quite a bit lower than most upper-tier pinots being made in California today. Hagen thinks that his pinots are at their best four to seven years after the vintage, "when the baby fat has fallen off but the fruit is still vibrant. They tend to start their fade after that and the fruit diminishes, which is to plenty of peoples' taste but not mine." He told me that the family vineyard, which has been the source for some of California's top pinot noir and chardonnay bottlings for numerous producers, "is all about low yields and structured but energetic fruit." The chardonnays here are pressed with whole clusters and see no new oak. Pinot noir is destemmed and begins fermentation with its native yeasts, after which it is inoculated and raised in roughly 25% new French oak. 2009 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills ($30) Bright gold. Fresh pineapple and lemon on the spicy, sharply focused nose. Juicy and expansive on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, with very good definition to its

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tropical and orchard fruit flavors. Drier and more tangy on the finish, leaving behind notes of bitter lemon pith white pepper. I like this wine's blend of richness and vivacity. 90 2009 Chardonnay Bf (Barrel Fermented) Sta. Rita Hills ($45) (the "BF" indicates that this bottling was barrel-fermented): Bright yellow-gold. Honey and poached pear on the smoky, vanilla-accented nose. Ripe and fleshy but lively as well, offering juicy orchard fruit flavors and notes of lemon gelato, clove and vanilla bean. Picks up a floral quality with air and finishes smooth, sappy and long. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills ($54) Bright violet color. Fresh red fruits and flowers on the spiceaccented nose. Lively and precise, with sappy raspberry and cherry flavors given spine by tangy acidity. Shows excellent clarity and verve on the finish, which echoes the floral and spice notes. 91 2009 Pinot Noir V.S. (Vigneron Select) Sta. Rita Hills ($59) Vivid ruby-red. Bright, highly aromatic nose displays scents of strawberry and raspberry preserves, candied rose and Asian spices. Sharply focused red fruit flavors are lifted by tangy acidity and pick up weight with aeration. Offers a compelling blend of richness and energy and finishes with outstanding clarity and spicy persistence. 92 2008 Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Sta. Rita Hills ($54) Deep red. Aromas of fresh red berries and flowers, with a high-pitched note of white pepper and a hint of woodsmoke. Lively and focused on the palate, offering juicy strawberry and raspberry flavors and a silky texture. The raspberry note repeats on the finish, which clings with very good tenacity and resonating spiciness. 90 2007 Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Sta. Rita Hills ($54) Bright red. Fresh raspberry and candied cherry on the nose, with good spicy, floral lift. Tangy red berry flavors are focused and pure, with silky tannins adding support. The spice-accented finish leaves behind an exotic rose pastille note. This juicy wine drinks very well now but is evolving slowly. 89

Alta Colina 2009 Grenache Paso Robles ($44) (includes 9% syrah): Deep ruby. Powerfully scented bouquet of plum jam and blackcurrant liqueur, dark chocolate and violet; seems like there's more syrah in here. Inky, palate-coating flavors of ripe dark fruit flavors, with a slow-mounting smoky note. This high-octane wine finishes with velvety tannins and echoes of dark berries, plum and bitter chocolate. 87 2009 Mourvedre Paso Robles ($44) (includes 14% syrah and 11% grenache): Inky ruby. Vibrant raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by spice and candied floral nuances. Offers sweet dark berry and bitter cherry flavors enlivened by cracked pepper and violet. The long, chewy finish features finegrained tannins and a late floral kick. This is quite elegant for a New World Rhone blend. 90 2009 Gsm Paso Robles ($38) (53% syrah, 24% mourvedre and 23% grenache): Bright purple. Musky cherry and dark berry aromas are sharply focused, with peppery spices providing additional lift. Bitter cherry and cassis flavors are bracing and pure, with a pungent kick of camphor enlivening the back end. Really showing its syrah component today. This assertively perfumed, juicy style offers very good energy and finishing cut. 90 2009 Toasted Slope Red Wine Paso Robles ($38) (90% syrah and 10% gernache): Opaque purple. Highly perfumed aromas of blackcurrant, cherry, olive and tobacco, with mounting spiciness. Sweet, deep dark fruit and floral pastille flavors coat the palate. Finishes smoky and long, with a lingering olive quality. 90 2009 Old 900 Red Wine Paso Robles ($48) Glass-staining purple. Seductively perfumed bouquet of dark berry preserves, potpourri and black olive, along with a spicy overtone. More graceful than the Toasted Slope, showing impressive focus to its spicy blackberry and mulberry flavors. Finishes sweet, sappy and floral. For a rich wine this is quite lithe. 91

Clos Solene Guillaume Fabre continues to expand his line-up of wines and while production is very limited and

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prices are undeniably on the high side, they show outstanding quality across the board. Fabre's day job is at L'Aventure, and his own wines show similar traits to those of Stephan Asseo, "emphasizing power and intensity with elegance and balance above all," as he put it. He told me that he wants to avoid phenolic qualities in making roussanne, for example, "because too many of them show hardness and dry character at the expense of the fruit and freshness." Like Asseo, he isn't scared of new oak "if the fruit can handle it, which is possible if you have concentration from low yields, which is what I look for, always. But if the oak is getting in the way, then it hasn't worked." 2010 Essence De Roussanne Paso Robles ($60) Light gold. Exotically perfumed scents of fresh tropical and pit fruits, white flowers and candied orange. Juicy and clean, with very good focus to its vibrant pineapple, nectarine and candied citrus flavors. Finishes taut and long, the floral note echoing strongly. 92 2010 La Grande Cote Rose Paso Robles ($25) (a blend of 49% mourvedre, 32% syrah and 19% grenache, made from free-run juice): Light, bright pink. Intensely perfumed aromas of blood orange, pink grapefruit, white pepper and pungent herbs. Nervy and precise on the palate, offering zesty redcurrant and citrus zest flavors underscored by a dusty mineral quality. Tangy and incisive on the finish, with the blood orange and herbal notes repeating. This wine could stand up to some of the best pink wines from southern France. 91 2009 Ma Premiere Paso Robles ($105) (80% grenache and 20% syrah): Opaque purple. Deeply pitched aromas of black raspberry, cherry, Asian spices and fresh flowers, with a suave note of vanilla emerging with air. Silky, sweet and impressively energetic, offering powerful red and dark berry flavors and an exotic note of candied lavender. Tannins come on late and add shape to an impressively long, seamless, sappy finish. Excellent balance here. 92 2009 Hommage A Nos Pairs Reserve Paso Robles ($95) (92% syrah and 8% grenache, raised in all new oak): Opaque violet color. A hypnotically perfumed bouquet displays scents of blackcurrant, boysenberry, star anise, vanilla and black olive. Sappy, palate-staining dark fruit flavors show liqueur-like intensity while retaining a shockingly lithe character. Gains heft and picks up fine-grained tannins with air but maintains an elegant character, finishing with outstanding focus and floral-accented persistence. Extremely young but promising wine that really deserves some bottle age. 92(+?) 2010 Sweet Clementine Paso Robles (97% grenache and 3% syrah, all late-harvested): Opaque ruby. Heady, seductive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, fruitcake and floral oils, with a hint of molasses. Velvety and seamless, coating the palate with intense raspberry and boysenberry flavors. Clings with superb intensity on the finish, which strongly echoes the floral note. An outstanding sweet wine that would be great alongside a blue cows' milk cheese. 93

Alta Maria Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($22) Pale yellow. Ripe melon and pear aromas are complicated by white flowers and honey. Smooth, expansive orchard and pit fruit flavors show good depth and little herbal character; in fact, I'm not sure I'd have guessed that this was sauvignon blanc. Finishes on a deeply fruity note, with good cling and sappy persistence. 88 2009 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley ($28) Pale yellow. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with slow-building spiciness and a hint of honey. A deeply flavored midweight that offers juicy pear and tangerine flavors and a bit of back-end heat. Finishes broad and supple, the tangerine note repeating. 87 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley ($28) Bright medium red. Aromas of cherry, bitter chocolate and cracked pepper. Rich, densely packed and chewy, with a medicinal quality to its cherry and dark berry flavors. Finishes firm and linear, with lingering spiciness and a hint of cherry pit. 89 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Ynez Valley ($28) Ruby-red. Ripe dark fruits on the nose, along with a subtle floral quality. Round and plummy, with deep but slightly dull cherry and cassis flavors showing some warmth (this is carrying 15.5% alcohol). Distinctly rich and weighty cabernet with serious finishing punch. Fans of large-scaled wines will likely enjoy this. 87

Diatom Fans of Diatom will notice that starting with the 2010 vintage Greg Brewer has disposed of

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vineyard designations for the wines in favor of Japanese Kenji characters that he believes evoke "a personal and specific representation of origin." Anybody who has spent time with Brewer knows his focused and detailed personality, not to mention his fascination with Japanese culture ("clarity, precision, simplicity"), so as curious as this move may seem on its face, it makes some sense. As usual, the wines are fermented at very cold temperatures in stainless steel tanks and the malolactic fermentations are blocked. Brewer has caught some flak for the often-elevated alcohol levels of the Diatom wines but he's unfazed "because the whole point is to let each wine be what it wants to be, without any adornment from me. Where it wants to go, it goes. My job is to protect it and that's it." 2010 Chardonnay Hana Shinobu Sta. Rita Hills ($36) (12.7% alcohol): Light yellow. High-pitched citrus zest and pear aromas are complicated by notes of anise, ginger and minerals. Dusty and precise, with sneaky depth to its bitter lime and orchard fruit flavors. Taut, focused and pure chardonnay with strong finishing cut and lingering herb and mineral notes. 91 2010 Chardonnay Hamon Santa Rita Hills ($42) Light, bright gold. Explosive aromas of poached pear, mango, Meyer lemon and white flowers, with spice and mineral accents adding vivacity. Broad and deeply pitched on entry, then more taut in the mid-palate, with serious power to its orchard and tropical fruit flavors. A refreshingly bitter citrus zest quality adds focus and bite to the very long, incisive finish. This wine's blend of richness and vivacity is impressive. 93 2010 Chardonnay Miya Santa Rita Hills ($48) Light yellow. Aromas of pear skin, anise, ginger and lemon pith, with a touch of white pepper. Spicy and sappy in the mouth, offering juicy orchard fruit flavors and notes of chamomile and iodine. Focused and chewy on the long, spicy and energetic finish. Quiet deep but there's excellent clarity and cut to this chardonnay. 91 2010 Chardonnay Kodo Sta. Rita Hills ($42) Bright yellow. Alluring aromas of pit fruits, melon and tangerine are lifted by orange peel and candied ginger. Fleshy and smooth in texture, with very good depth and heft to its juicy nectarine and honeydew flavors. A touch of bitter citrus pith adds cut to very long, sappy, penetrating finish. This would be a great match with strongly seasoned or earthy dishes, like a mushroom risotto. 93 2010 Chardonnay Kazaoto Sta. Rita Hills ($36) Bright yellow. Intense, mineral-accented aromas of melon, orange and white flowers, with slow-building spiciness. Powerful, palate-staining pit and citrus fruit flavors are lifted by a zesty, refreshing note of quinine and show excellent precision. At once deep and lithe, finishing with excellent clarity and lingering florality. This sexy wine improves a lot with air. 92(+?)

Ampelos Cellars 2010 Viognier Phi Santa Barbara County ($25) Light, bright yellow. Sexy, high-pitched aromas of lemon curd, pear, nectarine and white flowers, along with a spicy nuance. Juicy and precise on entry, then broader and deeper in the mid-palate, offering bitter pear skin and pit fruit flavors that stain the palate. Clings impressively on the finish, which repeats the pear note. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills ($25) Bright ruby-red. Fresh red berries and flowers on the highly fragrant nose. Spicy and focused, with good depth and energy to its redcurrant and cherry-cola flavors. A smoky note comes up with air and carries through a long, supple, appealingly sweet finish. This pinot is delicious right now. 90

Dragonette Cellars I tasted this year's set of Dragonette wines with John and Steve Dragonette and Brandon SparksGillis at their facility in Lompoc and then again back here in New York. This up-and-coming producer sources fruit from some of the Central Coast's best vineyards and has quickly made a name for itself as one of California's top sources for sauvignon blanc. There are three bottling made from that variety now and their pinot noir line-up is slowly expanding, as are the Rhonevariety bottlings. Sparks-Gillis spent time working at Torbreck, in Australia, and also at Sine Qua Non, but the wines he's making at Dragonette show a more restrained personality than most of those made by those two highly lauded producers. "Our initial goal was to work with the best vineyards in the area and then do as little as possible to the wine as it evolved," he said. "If you're going to mess around with the grapes then it kind of doesn't matter where they came from.

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There's no recipe except to start with a great site and take it from there." 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($25) Light, bright gold. Potent aromas of lemon gelato, green cardamom, mint and white flowers. Offers a suave mix of plump orchard fruit and bitter citrus qualities, with a spicy topnote. Finishes tight and clean, with excellent clarity, refreshing bitterness and a lingering note of candied lime. 91 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Happy Canyon Of Santa Barbara ($35) Bright gold. Musky, lees-accented aromas and flavors of orange pith, pear and nectarine, with sexy oak spice and honey nuances adding complexity. Juicy and broad but quite lively, with noteworthy intensity to its oak-spiced orchard and citrus fruit flavors. The spicy quality carries through the long, gently smoky, precise finish. Emphatically in the white Bordeaux school, with the depth and heft to handle rich foods. 92 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Vogelzang Vineyard Happy Canyon Of Santa Barbara ($48) Bright yellow. Seductively perfumed scents of yellow plum, nectarine, lemon curd and vanilla, lifted by sexy ginger and floral overtones. Broad, sappy and dense but impressively energetic, offering sappy, smoke-accented pit and orchard fruit flavors and an exotic note of candied anise. Finishes chewy and very long, with lingering spiciness and an echo of candied ginger. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills ($42) Ruby-red. Red berries and cherry on the pungent, spice-accented nose. Sweet, sappy and focused, offering juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors accented by a note of candy flowers. Finishes refreshingly bitter and precise, with the floral note echoing. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Vivid ruby-red. Pungent aromas of cherry, black raspberry, cola and Asian spices, with a touch of vanillin oak. Deeply pitched but impressively energetic red and dark berry flavors show very good clarity, with notes of anise, allspice and sassafras adding nuance. The red berry and spice elements repeat on the long, sappy, seamless finish. Very sexy and drinking well now, especially with some aeration. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Vivid ruby. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the pungent, smoky nose. Rich and deeply pitched, offering powerful dark fruit flavors complicated by notes of licorice and candied rose. The long finish features firm grip and lingering notes of cherry-cola and black pepper. A pretty serious, hefty wine that could use a few years of bottle aging. 90(+?) 2009 Grenache Santa Barbara County ($38) (includes 20% syrah and 5% mourvedre): Bright red. Redcurrant, raspberry and cherry on the pungent, spice-accented nose. Juicy and taut on entry, with very good clarity to its zesty red fruit flavors. Then fleshier and broader in the mid-palate, offering a deeper note of candied licorice. Finishes firm, with fine-grained tannins and a touch of bitter orange pith. This could use a little time to stretch out. 90(+?) 2009 Syrah Seven Central Coast ($38) (94% syrah, 4% grenache and 2% mourvedre): Opaque ruby. Complex, intensely perfumed bouquet of dark berry preserves, olive tapenade, fresh violet and an exotic touch of black cardamom. Spicy and penetrating, with very good depth to its sweet blackberry and mulberry flavors. Juicy acidity gives this wine good spine. Picks up smokiness with air and finishes with impressive clarity and length. With aeration, this wine drinks very well now. 91 2008 Syrah California ($35) Opaque violet color. A complex bouquet evokes black raspberry, olive, cola and dried flowers. Pliant, palate-caressing blackberry and boysenberry flavors are lifted by a peppery nuance. Fine-grained tannins add focus and shape to the very long, spicy finish. Quite suave, and approachable now. 91 2008 Proprietary Blend Mjm California ($54) (92% syrah, 6% grenache and 1% each mourvedre and viognier): Glass-staining ruby. Pungent, oak-spiced aromas of dark berries, cola, violet and incense, with a smoky overtone. Deeply pitched and chewy in texture, with impressive freshness to its black raspberry and boysenberry flavors. Gains spiciness with air and picks up a suggestion of palate-numbing white pepper. Finishes on a sweet note of vanilla bean, with gripping tannins and excellent length. This is still a baby. 92(+?)

Ancient Peaks 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles ($14) Pale straw. Grassy aromas of grapefruit, lime zest and herbs. Offers attractive freshness and clean, dry flavors of fresh herbs and citrus fruits. This bright, racy

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sauvignon finishes with good bite and a slightly tart edge. 87 2009 Renegade Paso Robles ($23) (46% syrah, 31% malbec and 23% petit verdot): Bright purple. Lively aromas of cherry, redcurrant, cola and pungent spices. Vibrant in the mouth, with good tangy bite to its red berry flavors. Finishes with a slightly dry edge, echoing the spicy note. 87 2008 Oyster Ridge Red Paso Robles ($50) (50% cabernet sauvignon, 20% each of petite sirah and merlot and 10% petit verdot): Deep ruby. Bright aromas of black raspberry, cherry and licorice. Generous, broad and pliant, with a creamy texture but also juicy acidity to enliven the bitter cherry and dark berry flavors. Finishes with noteworthy freshness, silky tannins and very good focus. 90 2008 Petit Verdot Margarita Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) Glass-staining purple. Aromas of cherry-cola and dark chocolate are joined by a slow-building spiciness. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors are structured but in no way hard. Picks up a smoky note with air and finishes with good breadth and a resonating note of licorice. 89 2008 Malbec Margarita Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) Dark ruby. Aromas and flavors of ripe blackberry, licorice and cola, with herbal and floral tones adding complexity. Broad and juicy in the mouth, conveying an impression of power without excess weight. Expands with air and repeats the blackberry note on the long, sappy finish. Decant this for a bit if you want to drink it now. 88

Also recommended: 2009 Merlot Paso Robles (86), 2009 Zinfandel Paso Robles (85).

Epoch Estate Wines Now that winemaker Jordan Fiorentini has her feet firmly in place here she has begun what she told me was "the brick-by-brick process of blending all of the components we've got here into single wines. It's like building a house from the foundation up and what I love doing most as a winemaker." The wines being made here now stand among the very best coming out of Paso Robles and show impressive depth, along with complexity and precision. Fiorentini told me that "the challenge to to harness and focus the powerful fruit of Paso. The challenge isn't to make a big wine, which is easy here; it's to keep everything in balance without killing the personality and intensity." 2009 Sensibility Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($55) (75% grenache, 21% mourvedre and 4% syrah): Bright violet. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes red berries, gingerbread and fresh rose. Smooth and seamless on the palate, with intense raspberry and cherry flavors perked up by clove and cracked pepper. Sweet and focused on the finish, with the red fruit note repeating. 91 2009 Zinfandel Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($50) (includes 6% mourvedre): Bright purple. Intense aromas of dark berries, violet and woodsmoke, with higher-pitched mineral and spice nuances building with air. Juicy, incisive and spicy in the mouth, offering fresh blackberry and boysenberry flavors and a touch of cola. The spiciness repeats on the very long finish, which features notes of candied violet and rose. The smooth tannins of this wine will make it drinkable soon. 92 2009 Veracity Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($55) (36% grenache, 32% mourvedre and 32% syrah, aged in 38% new French barrels and the rest in puncheons; 15.7% alcohol): Bright purple. Intensely perfumed aromas of blackberry, blueberry, anise and violet, with a touch of cinnamon in the background. Juicy, palate-staining red and dark berry flavors show excellent clarity and depth, with a suave floral pastille quality on the back half. The red fruit element carries through on the smooth, very long finish. 93 2009 Ingenuity Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($55) (65% syrah, 12% petite sirah, 12% mourvedre, 7% grenache and 4% zinfandel; aged for 23 months in 42% new French barrels and puncheons; 16.1% alcohol): Bright purple. Black and blue fruits, licorice and cola on the highly aromatic nose. Becomes spicier with air, picking up allspice, star anise and black tea qualities. Rich but energetic in the mouth, displaying sweet dark berry and bitter cherry flavors and a hint of candied violet. This sappy, precise blend finishes with excellent clarity and sweetness. 93 2009 Block B Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($55) (100% syrah, aged in 43% new French puncheons, which measure roughly 320 liters, as opposed to a barrique's 225 liters; 15.9% alcohol):

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Glass-staining purple. Pungent aromas of cassis and blueberry, with slow-building smokiness and notes of dark chocolate and cracked pepper. Rich and broad-shouldered, with densely packed dark berry and bitter cherry flavors given spine by zesty acidity. Opens slowly with air to show a sexy floral quality, which lingers on the long, sappy, smoke-accented finish. This is still a baby. 92(+?) 2009 Authenticity Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($55) (64% syrah and 36% mourvedre; 16% alcohol): Opaque purple. Intense, floral-accented aromas of dark berry preserves, Indian spices and cola, with a suave touch of vanilla gaining power with air. Lush and expansive but surprisingly energetic, offering pliant blackberry and boysenberry flavors with no rough edges, The floral quality dominates the very long, sappy, spicy finish. Definitely a big boy but very nicely balanced. 93 2009 Estate Blend Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($40) (60% syrah, 19% grenache, 9% tempranillo, 8% zinfandel and 4% mourvedre): Bright purple. Intense raspberry and cherry aromas are lifted by notes of peppery spice and fresh rose. Lively and well-focused, with juicy red berry and bitter cherry flavors that stain the palate. Finishes with very good clarity and length, the cherry note repeating. I'd have guessed that there was more tempranillo in here. 91

Andrew Murray Vineyards 2008 Syrah Tous Les Jours Central Coast ($16) Bright ruby. Cherry and dark berry preserves on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice and olive tapenade. Lively, taut cherry and blackberry flavors stain the palate, showing very good clarity and zesty minerality that builds with air. Finishes with strong cut and sweet persistence. This is an outstanding value. 90 2008 Esperance Central Coast ($30) (60% grenache, 25% syrah and 15% mourvedre): Glass-staining ruby. Sexy, oak-spiced aromas of black raspberry, cola and licorice. Broad and expansive in the mouth, offering juicy red and dark berry flavors and notes of cola and vanilla. Finishes smooth, sweet and long, with resonating spiciness and a hint of mocha. 91 2008 Syrah Terra Bella Vineyard Paso Robles ($36) Opaque ruby. Powerful aromas of black and blue fruits, vanilla and oak spices. Deeply pitched blackberry and blueberry flavors are impressively concentrated but the oak component is quite pronounced right now. Finishes sweet and intense, with the blackberry and vanilla notes repeating. If this wine absorbs the lumber my score will go up. 89(+?) 2009 Syrah Watch Hill Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($36) Deep ruby. Complex, seductively perfumed bouquet displays raspberry, cassis, cola and potpourri, along with a smoky overtone. Sweet, spicy and penetrating, displaying very good clarity to its dark fruit and floral pastille flavors. The intensely spicy finish clings with excellent tenacity and a hint of cracked pepper. 91 2008 Syrah Reserve Central Coast ($50) (made from a blend of fruit from Terra Bella, Watch Hill and Thompson vineyards): Inky purple. Warm and ripe on the nose, with scents of exotic oak spices, cassis and cherry compote. Thick, weighty and chewy, with dense dark berry flavors and a building note of candied licorice. Finishes rich, round and smoky, with alluring sappiness, pliant tannins and very good length. 91

Hilliard Bruce Vineyards The Hilliard Bruce vineyard, situated just west of Clos Pepe in the Sta. Rita Hills (and on the same line as Babcock, Melville and Zotovich, among others), was planted in 2004 and currently comprises 21 of the property's total 101 acres of land. Owners John Hilliard and Christine Bruce meticulously maintain their grounds and vines (they are both certified Master Gardeners) and have spared no expense to make this one of the showpiece vineyards of the AVA. My first encounter with the vineyard was via the excellent pinot made from their fruit by Paul Lato, and they are now moving into making estate wines, with the consulting assistance of Lato. As might be expected, the wines emphasize elegance and balance rather than mass and power. These are still very young vines so it will be interesting to follow the wines over the coming years. 2009 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills ($45) Bright yellow. Spicy citrus and orchard fruits on the nose, with complicating notes of chamomile, honeysuckle, iodine and minerals. Sappy, precise and well-focused, with vibrant Meyer lemon, pear and bitter quinine flavors and suave oak spices. Shows a smoky quality on the very long, juicy finish. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Sun Sta. Rita Hills ($55) Bright ruby-red. Aromas of cherry-cola, black raspberry and

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vanilla bean pick up spiciness and a sexy note of potpourri with air. A more powerful expression of pinot than the graceful Moon bottling, but with no less elegance and complexity. Sappy dark berry and bitter cherry flavors show very good clarity, thanks to a solid spine of acidity. Finishes with excellent thrust and grip, repeating the cherry and spice notes. Give this some bottle age. 91(+?) 2008 Pinot Noir Moon Sta. Rita Hills ($80) Deep, bright red. Pure red fruits, flowers and Asian spices on the explosively perfumed nose. Juicy, penetrating and lithe, offering sweet strawberry and raspberry preserve flavors that stain the palate. Aeration brings out notes of anise and lavender, along with a subtle cola nuance. Finishes silky and sweet, with fine-grained tannins adding shape and grip. This pinot should age well on its balance. 92

Anglim Winery 2008 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Santa Rita Hills ($48) Bright medium red. Fresh red berries on the nose, with strong mineral and floral qualities adding energy. Lively spice-accented strawberry and raspberry flavors are firmed by gentle acidity. Silky, sweet and spicy on the finish, which strongly echoes the floral note. 90 2008 Proprietary Blend Cameo Paso Robles ($24) (78% viognier, 15% grenache blanc and 7% roussanne): Bright gold. Ripe pear and guava on the fragrant nose. Lush and broad on entry, then more clenched in the middle, offering slightly bitter tropical fruit and peach pit flavors and a touch of vanilla. Finishes smooth and broad, with a touch of heat. 87 2008 Zinfandel St. Peter Of Alcantara Vineyard Paso Robles ($24) Bright ruby. Fragrant, inviting aromas of bright dark berries and cherry lifted by dried flowers and minerals. Sweet and velvety but precise, with appealing flavors of blackberry and anise. Polished and graceful by zin standards, finishing with good clarity and sappiness. 89 2008 Syrah La Montanita Vineyard Paso Robles ($40) Deep ruby. High-pitched aromas of cherry, spices and cracked pepper. Juicy and intense, with bitter cherry, cassis and licorice flavors supported by serious structure. This tightly coiled, persistent wine needs some time to stretch out. 88(+?) 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Bailey Vineyard Paso Robles ($48) Vivid purple. Dark berries, licorice and woodsmoke on the nose. Juicy and expansive, with appealing sweetness to its blackberry and cassis flavors. Dusty tannins build through a spice- and smoke-accented finish. 88

Also recommended: 2007 Cerise Paso Robles (85). Other wines tasted: 2008 Grenache Paso Robles, 2008 Syrah Paso Robles.

L'Aventure All of the fruit that Stephan Asseo uses for his wines now comes from his own vineyards, which, he told me, "is the winemaker's holy grail." Asseo finds the 2009 vintage for his wines to be "European in style, with the usual power that you get here, but with elegance." That view was shared by his neighbor Scott Hawley, of Torrin, by the way. Asseo contrasts '09 with 2006 by pointing out that the '06s "are big and rich, definitely impressive, but lacking some finesse. In '09 we were able to get both richness and finesse. A nice opportunity." 2010 Roussanne Estate Paso Robles ($45) (includes 13% grenache blanc): Bright yellow. High-toned aromas of lemon rind, pear and white pepper, with a suave floral nuance. Sappy and precise on the palate, offering juicy orchard fruit flavors that pick up structure and depth with air. Shows a refreshing mineral quality on the finish, which strongly echoes the lemon note. This wine will be even better with a couple years in a cool cellar. 92 2009 Plus 16 Paso Robles ($75) (42% each of mourvedre and cabernet sauvignon, plus 16% syrah): Inky purple. Vibrant aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, licorice and spicy oak. Sappy, concentrated and pliant, with very good definition and vivacity to the sweet black and blue fruit flavors. Impressively long on the finish, with supple tannins adding shape and gentle grip. 91

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2009 Optimus Paso Robles ($45) (50% syrah, 39% cabernet sauvignon and 11% petit verdot): Opaque purple. Deeply pitched black and blue fruits on the nose, with notes of cracked pepper and cured tobacco adding complexity. Densely packed and energetic, with a seamless texture to the sweet boysenberry and cassis flavors. Tannins arrive late and add grip to the very long, smoke-accented finish. 91 2009 The Sibling Paso Robles ($75) (35% each of grenache and mourvedre, the rest syrah): Dark purple. Sexy, intensely perfumed bouquet of raspberry, mulberry, cola, Asian spices and fresh rose. Vibrant and precise, with excellent clarity to its seamless red and dark berry flavors. Finishes sweet and spicy, with excellent energy and nervy persistence. I really like this wine's balance and focus. 92 2009 Cote A Cote Estate Paso Robles ($85) (42% grenache, 33% syrah and 25% mourvedre, raised in 50% new oak): Vivid ruby. Explosive aromas of black raspberry, boysenberry, incense and star anise, with a hint of vanilla. Bright and energetic, with excellent clarity to its sweet berry and cherry-cola flavors. A suave floral nuance gains strength with air and carries through the very long, spicy, seamless finish. 92 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown Paso Robles ($80) (includes 9% petit verdot; raised in 100% new oak): Inky purple. Assertively perfumed aromas of red- and blackcurrant, cola, vanilla, pipe tobacco and fresh flowers, with a subtle note of smoky herbs. Deeply pitched but energetic, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors complicated by floral pastille and mocha nuances. Juicy and focused cabernet with excellent finishing thrust, lingering spiciness and building tannins. This wine is still very young but offers excellent potential, as a bottle that had been open for two days proved to me. 92(+?) 2009 Estate Cuvee Paso Robles ($85) (42% each of syrah and cabernet sauvignon, plus 16% petit verdot): Glass-staining purple. Powerful, pungent cassis, blueberry and incense aromas, along with a sexy note of Asian spices. Huge, deeply concentrated dark fruit preserve flavors show superb intensity and zero rough edges. Spicy notes build on the strikingly powerful, sweet finish, which features notes of candied rose and star anise. By all means let this age for at least another five years. 92(+?) 2010 Rose Estate Paso Robles ($25) (a blend of syrah and cabernet sauvignon): Pale pink. Highpitched aromas of redcurrant, rhubarb and blood orange, with a touch of white pepper. Tangy and focused, with precise red fruit and citrus pith flavors that show very good depth without any excess weight. Finishes dry, with good back-end cut and length. 89

Arada 2008 Las Ramblas Blanca Central Coast ($25) (30% each of viognier and chardonnay and 20% each of grenache blanc and albarino): Green-tinged gold. Complex aromas of peach, honey and herbs. Full, fleshy and alluringly sweet, with powerful, palate-coating pit fruit and melon flavors. At once rich and fresh, finishing with good thrust and sappy persistence. This would pair well with spicy Asian foods. 89

Linne Calodo "Two thousand nine gave me the opportunity to make wines that are elegant but still rich," Matt Trevisan told me in September. He added that he loves working with a variety of parcels and lots and the whole blending process "because I guess in my heart I really like being a dictator." Trevisan is moving more heavily into larger-format casks "so that the fermentations can be drawn out, and that helps maximize complexity." As much as he likes his wines to be powerful, he wants to "get some mystery in there" as well. 2009 Slacker Paso Robles ($48) (65% syrah, 25% grenache and 10% mourvedre): Bright ruby-red. Lively floral and red berry aromas are accented by cracked pepper and Asian spices. Sappy raspberry and blackberry flavors are firmed by tangy acidity and complemented by notes of candied lavender and allspice. Fresh, elegant and precise, finishing with excellent clarity and lingering spiciness. Matt Trevisan calls this a departure from what people might expect from his wines, "but the flavor is all there." 91

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2009 Red Wine Rising Tides Paso Robles ($58) (40% mourvedre and 30% each of syrah and grenache): Assertive aromas of red berry preserves, Asian spices and floral oil; smells like there's more grenache in here. Stains the palate with musky red fruit and candied rose flavors, picking up spiciness with air. Very fresh and precise blend with strong finishing cut and an echo of sweet red fruit. 91 2009 Sticks & Stones Paso Robles ($68) (64% grenache, 29% mourvedre and 7% syrah): Bright ruby. Hugely aromatic nose displays scents of candied red and dark berries, incense, lavender and Asian spices. Deep and fleshy but energetic, with powerful raspberry and cherry-cola flavors picking up weight with air. Shows excellent clarity on the very long finish, with the spice and cola notes echoing. 92 2009 Nemesis Paso Robles ($68) (87% syrah, 10% mourvedre and 3% grenache): Brilliant ruby color. Sexy blackberry, cherry-cola, potpourri and incense aromas, with a high-pitched note of black pepper. At once dense and lively, offering dark berry and bitter cherry flavors and a chewy texture. Floral and spice notes gain strength with air and carry through a very long, sappy, focused finish. There are very suave tannins here but they make a late appearance and play nicely with the densely packed fruit. 93 2009 Overthinker Paso Robles ($68) (45% grenache, 33% syrah and 22% mourvedre, all from estategrown fruit): Dark ruby. Deep raspberry and boysenberry aromas are complemented by fresh rose, lavender and cola. Candied red and dark berry and floral pastille flavors stain the palate, with fine-grained tannins providing good structural support. The floral note gains strength on the finish, which is alluringly sweet, sappy and very long. For a rich, youthful wine this is strikingly precise and graceful. 92(+?) 2009 Problem Child Paso Robles ($55) (76% zinfandel, 15% syrah and 9% mourvedre): Vivid ruby. Deep, musky aromas of blackcurrant and cherry pit are complicated by notes of woodsmoke and cured meat. Broad, palate-staining dark berry flavors shows very good depth and notes of candied violet and licorice. Silky and smooth on the finish, which is firmed by youthful, dusty tannins. Very promising. 92 (+?) 2009 Outsider Paso Robles ($55) (78% zinfandel, 20% syrah and 2% mourvedre): Glass-staining ruby. Red berries and flowers on the nose, with complicating notes of spicecake and cracked pepper. Juicy and open-knit, with good clarity to its raspberry and cherry flavors. The floral note repeats on the long, juicy, refreshingly brisk finish. 91 2009 Cherry Red Paso Robles ($60) (62% zinfandel, 20% mourvedre and 18% syrah): Bright ruby. Lively and precise on the nose, displaying scents of redcurrant, cherry, tobacco and dried rose; smells a lot like a cabernet to me. Juicy and focused, with very good depth and sweetness to its red fruit flavors. Shows a refreshingly bitter quality on the finish, which lingers with impressive vibrancy and length. 92

Au Bon Climat 2009 Chardonnay Los Alamos Vineyard Santa Barbara Historic Vineyards Collection Santa Barbara County ($35) Bright, green-tinged gold. Meyer lemon, pear, honeysuckle and anise on the fragrant nose. Juicy and smooth in texture, with very good energy to its ripe pit and orchard fruit flavors. Sappy and refreshingly bitter on the long, clinging finish, which repeats the lemon and anise notes. I like this wine's power and cut. 91 2009 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara Historic Vineyards Collection Santa Maria Valley ($30) Bright, green-tinged gold. Melon, nectarine, smoky lees and mint on the nose. Dense, sappy and juicy, with nervy acidity giving cut and lift to the ripe pit fruit and lemon gelato flavors. Plenty rich but there's very good energy and spine here. Finishes long, spicy and very firm, with resonating anise, quinine and bitter citrus pith qualities. Give this youthful chardonnay some bottle age or air to allow it to stretch out. 90(+?) 2007 Hildegard White Table Wine Santa Maria Valley ($35) (55% pinot gris, 40% pinot blanc and 5% aligote): Bright yellow. Intense aromas of pit fruits, poached pear, honey and orange zest, with smoky oak notes and mounting spiciness. Rich and broad on the palate but there's surprising vivacity to the

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nectarine, pear and candied citrus flavors. Closes on a smoky, gently sweet note, with excellent persistence. I'd serve this intriguing wine with a rich, buttery poultry or shellfish dish. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara Historic Vineyards Collection Los Alamos Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($35) Bright red. Floral-accented aromas and flavors of fresh red berries and anise, picking up a sexy hint of vanilla with air. Juicy and precise on the palate, with very good depth of flavor but no excess fat. Closes on a note of candied rose, with lingering sweetness and excellent clarity. This wine is delicious now but is balanced to age. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Talley Vineyard Rincon Arroyo Grande Valley ($45) Deep, bright red. Red fruit preserves, violet and allspice on the fragrant nose. Juicy and precise, with very good depth and energy to its raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Gains spiciness with air and picks up a mocha nuance, along with a touch of peppery spice. Finishes clean and very long, with gentle tannic grip and a lingering red fruit note. I find this pinot extremely attractive right now but I have no doubt that it will be even better with five or more years of bottle age. Incidentally, I also retasted the 2008 Sanford & Benedict pinot and it's brighter and more energetic than it was at this time last year. 92 2008 Pinot Noir La Bauge Au-Dessus Santa Maria Valley ($30) Bright medium red. Redcurrant, cherry, Indian spices and underbrush on the pungent nose. Shows a firm, youthful structure and smoky red fruit flavors, with slow-building spiciness and a hint of bitter herbs. Then turns sweeter on the spicy finish, which is focused and very persistent. This taut, red fruit-driven wine benefits a lot from air; give it at least an hour in a decanter or another few years of bottle aging. 90 2008 Pinot Noir 20 Years In The Shed With Bob At Bien Nacido Santa Maria Valley ($75) Vivid red. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes black raspberry, cherry-cola, incense and potpourri, with sexy Asian spice accents. Deeply pitched but very energetic, offering sweet red and dark berry preserve flavors and exotic notes of candied flowers and star anise. Sweet vanilla and rose pastille nuances carry through the very long, sappy, precise finish, which leaves cherry and spice notes behind. Lots going on here. 93

Longoria Wines Rick Longoria began making wine in 1974, alongside iconic California winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff at Buena Vista Winery, and established his own label in 1982. His was the first winery to set up shop in Lompoc (in 1998), in what is now known as the wine ghetto, home to a number of the Central Coast's most highly regarded producers. Longoria's wines, by his admission, "are made to age and sometimes aren't easy to read straight off." He told me that he likes wines that develop slowly rather that showing all their cards when they're young. I've had a number of older Longoria wines over the years, including an impressive vertical of Fe Ciega pinot noir this past August, and I can see his point. That said, the past few vintages here have produced wines that are more approachable and fruit-driven than I recall from the past. That might be a function of some forward vintages, as Longoria suggests, but it could also be the result of vine maturity. Regardless, these are still wines that are a bit tough to read when young, so I suggest decanting any of the reds from current vintages if you plan on drinking them before their fifth birthday. 2010 Albarino Clover Creek Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($23) Greenish yellow. Melon, orange and pear on the fragrant nose and in the mouth. Sappy and expansive, with a suave blend of richness and vivacity. Shows a tangy quality on the finish, which strongly repeats the melon note. The grapes for this wine were picked at 22 degrees Brix and whole-cluster-pressed; no oak was used. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Lovely Rita Sta. Rita Hills ($32) (all Fe Ciega fruit): Bright ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, vanilla and cola, with a spicy topnote. Bright, precise dark berry flavors are given depth by notes of sassafras and vanilla and pick up a peppery note with air. Finishes on a gently tannic note, with very good clarity and persistence. This drinks very well right now, especially with some aeration. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($45) Bright ruby-red. Lively aromas of black raspberry, minerals and musky herbs, with a sexy note of vanilla gaining strength with air. Then riper and deeper on the palate, with nicely delineated, spicy dark berry flavors that show attractive sweetness and good tangy bite. A well-proportioned, youthful pinot, finishing with fine-grained but firm tannins and very good persistence.

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91(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($45) Vivid ruby-red. Expressive aromas of red and dark berries, rose, cola and incense, with a sexy note of vanillin oak emerging with air. Juicy and expansive, with a seamless texture and very good depth to its raspberry and cherry-cola flavors. Rich but bright, with excellent finishing clarity and spicy persistence. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Vineyard Santa Rita Hills ($48) Bright ruby. Spicy red berries and cherry on the nose, with lively mineral and rose notes adding energy. Bright and lithe, with spice-accented red fruit and floral pastille flavors supported by fine-grained, building tannins. Finishes bright and focused, with outstanding length and repeating raspberry and spice notes. This should be even better with bottle age: Longoria recommends giving all Fe Ciegas "at least five years after the vintage before drinking them--and even then, decanting is a good idea." 92(+?) 2009 Tempranillo Clover Creek Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($36) (aged in 100% American oak): Ruby-red. Dried cherry and redcurrant aromas are complicated by cracked pepper and vanilla nuances. Fresh, finely etched red fruit preserve flavors are firmed by dusty tannins, with a floral note coming up with air. This suave, oak-spiced wine finishes with very good clarity and sweet persistence. There's an elegance to this wine that recalls Rioja but the intense fruit hearkens to Ribera del Duero. 90 2008 Syrah Alisos Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($34) (harvested at a relatively low 24.5 degrees Brix and raised in one-third new oak): Dark purple. Sexy aromas of dark berry preserves, vanilla, cola and woodsmoke, complemented by a sneaky cracked pepper nuance and slow-building florality. Sappy and expansive, with very good depth to its oak-spiced blackberry and mulberry flavors. Tannins come on late and add structure and closing grip. 90

Austin Hope 2009 Grenache Hope Family Vineyard Paso Robles ($32) Deep ruby-red. Highly perfumed aromas of raspberry, cherry compote and spicecake, lifted by fresh rose and Asian spices. Round, velvety and suave, with sappy red berry flavors and a sweet floral pastille quality. Finishes with lush, fine-grained tannins and impressive length and grip. 91 2009 Syrah Hope Family Vineyard Paso Robles ($32) Inky purple. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays black and blue fruits, incense and smoky vanillin oak. Lush and expansive, with palate-staining blackcurrant and blueberry flavors lifted by tangy acidity. Fine-grained tannins gain power with air and add grip to the long, smoky, spice-accented finish. This is really young still. 90(+?)

Melville Vineyards and Winery Greg Brewer, who has been at Melville since its first vintage, says that his winemaking approach here is "less radical" than his practices at Brewer-Clifton (100% whole-cluster fermentations for the pinots, virtually no new oak) and with his Diatom project (all stainless steel, blocked malos). Here the chardonnays are allowed to do their malos and there's more oak influence, and destemming is mostly practiced on the red grapes. Brewer's light touch is in evidence with the Melville wines and pricing is extremely fair, especially at the entry level. The coolness of the 2010 growing season "helped us get the sort of fruit we want to make bright, fresh wines, which is the style we're after," he told me. Unfortunately, the spring frost curtailed yields. "You can always count on nature to throw some kind of curve ball, so we have exactly the quality we want, just not enough of it," said Brewer. 2010 Viognier Estate Verna's Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($26) Greenish yellow. Aromas of white peach and pear nectar, with lively spice and floral notes adding complexity. Nervy, focused orchard fruit and honeysuckle flavors pick up sappiness with air and show very good spicy lift. Clean and brisk on the finish, with the floral and spice notes repeating. Textbook viognier, and a very good value for the variety. 91 2010 Chardonnay Estate Verna's Sta. Rita Hills ($22) Bright yellow-gold. Fresh pear and melon

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aromas are complemented by dried fig, iodine and jasmine. Tight and slow to open, offering juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a touch of tarragon. Shows very good clarity on the finish, which features notes of bitter quinine and citrus pith. This wine benefits a lot from air and has the balance to reward patience; it is also an outstanding value. 91 2010 Chardonnay Estate Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($26) Bright yellow-gold. Pungent aromas of pear skin, iodine, anise and green cardamom. Shows intense orchard fruit and lemon pith on the palate, with a chalky mineral quality adding lift. Closes on a chewy note, with lingering notes of bitter citrus and quinine and impressive length. This is even better with an hour or so of aeration so don't hesitate to decant it. 92 2010 Chardonnay Clone 76 Inox Sta. Rita Hills ($36) Pale yellow. Highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh pear, melon and Meyer lemon, with suave notes of minerals and white flowers. Deeply pitched but vibrant as well, with very good clarity to its spicy orchard fruit flavors. Aeration brings out a subtle anise note that carries through an impressively long, spicy, tightly focused finish. Give this another year or so of bottle age or an hour in a decanter if you want to drink it now. 92(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Verna's Sta. Rita Hills ($24) Vivid red. Sexy, expressive aromas of red berries, cherry and fresh rose, with a smoky topnote and a hint of anise. Juicy and precise, with very good depth to its sweet raspberry and cherry flavors. The anise note repeats on the persistent, spicy finish. This is a great value. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Sta. Rita Hills ($32) Deep, bright red. Sexy, open-knit raspberry and floral scents, complicated by subtle anise and allspice nuances. Suave, silky and bright, with energetic raspberry and cherry flavors lifted by tangy acidity. Very suave pinot with no rough edges. Fills out with air and shows excellent clarity on the long, intensely perfumed finish. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Sandy's Sta. Rita Hills ($44) Bright ruby. Pungent bouquet of dried cherry, blackcurrant and incense, with a high-pitched note of Asian spices adding vibrancy. At once rich and lively, with excellent clarity to the penetrating red and dark berry flavors. Balances power against elegance smoothly and finishes with impressive thrust and spicy persistence. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene Sta. Rita Hills ($44) Vivid ruby-red. Powerful red and dark berry aromas and flavors, with deeper cherry and licorice notes emerging with air. Pliant and expansive, showing good heft and energy to its black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Picks up smoke and anise notes on the back half and finishes with very good cling and smoky persistence. This could use some more bottle age, or at least a couple hours in a decanter. 92(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Terraces Small Lot Collection Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Bright ruby-red. Exotically perfumed bouquet of fresh red berries, Asian spices, rose oil, cola and vanilla bean. Taut and incisive, with excellent clarity and surprising depth to the smoky, spice-accented raspberry and cherry flavors. This lively, graceful pinot packs a serious punch, finishing with noteworthy clarity and floral-driven persistence. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Carrie's Small Lot Collection Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Deep, bright red. Aromas of raspberry and cherry preserves, potpourri and star anise, with a touch of licorice building with air. Sweet, sappy and energetic, offering expansive red and dark berry flavors and a sexy touch of candied rose. Finishes on a juicy note, with excellent clarity, persistence and lingering florality. 93 2009 Syrah Estate Verna's Sta. Rita Hills ($26) Bright ruby-red. Pungent aromas and flavors of red and dark berries, olive, violet and black tea, with a touch of cracked pepper. Sweet, sappy and expansive, with very good depth and a seamless texture. Finishes juicy and smooth, with echoing dark berry and pepper notes. A very impressive entry-level wine, as is the case with all the Verna's bottlings. 91 2009 Syrah Estate Donna's Sta. Rita Hills ($38) Opaque violet. Captivating bouquet offers scents of candied dark berries, licorice, violet, lavender and incense, with a spicy topnote of cracked pepper. Juicy, palate-staining black raspberry and mulberry flavors show a seamless texture and expand with air. The spice and floral notes repeat on the impressively long, sweet, penetrating finish. This wine would be superb with a Moroccan-spiced lamb dish; in the context of high-end New World syrah it is a fantastic value. 93

Autonom Wines

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2008 Red Cuvee California ($30) (a blend of 56% syrah, 40% grenache and 4% mourvedre; 16.5% alcohol): Deep, bright ruby. Ripe red berries, cherry and tar on the smoky nose. Smoky bitter cherry and raspberry flavors show notes of cracked pepper and vanilla, along with a bit of heat. Finishes long, spicy and warm, with the vanilla note repeating. 89 2008 Grenache Law Of Return California ($42) Vivid ruby-red. Intense aromas of red and dark berry preserves, licorice and candied rose. Picks up spice and floral notes with air and shows deep, sweet raspberry and blackberry qualities on the palate. The spiciness adds lift to the finish, which leaves floral pastille and cracked pepper behind. I like this wine's vivacity, which is all the more impressive in light of its 16.5% alcohol. 90 2008 Syrah Law Of Proportions California ($38) Inky purple. Hugely aromatic scents of dark berry liqueur, olive, candied licorice and cola, with a smoky overtone. Lush and creamy in texture, with palatesaturating blackberry and blueberry flavors showing serious depth and a warm quality. Brighter on the very long finish, which leaves sappy dark fruit and smoke notes behind. This wine checks in at 16.5% alcohol and while it won't win many points for elegance I find it pretty formidable. 90

The Ojai Vineyard Adam Tolmach told me that his personal preference for a syrah-drinking program is to "start in when they're about seven or eight years old and the fruit has begun to turn complex, and then for a long time after that." Not enough people have had the chance to experience enough well-aged syrah, he went on, "although plenty of people have a lot of experience with older pinot and cabernet, so they're missing a whole other part of wine, so far." He told me that his customers have been extremely responsive to, and supportive of, the move he made a few years ago to making wines "that emphasize elegance more than sweetness. That doesn't mean that we're making meager wines," he added, "but we do shoot for picking at lower Brix levels than a lot of people. If the pinot is right at 23 degrees Brix, we pick it. Still, you can't have a recipe, because every vintage has its own story. You just need to pick the fruit when it says it's ready." 2010 Viognier Roll Ranch Vineyard California ($26) Pale yellow. Fresh, precise scents and flavors of orange, green apple, white flowers and ginger. Sappy and broad on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, with striking clarity to its juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes very long and lively, with excellent focus and cut. According to Tolmach, "too much viognier is too opulent, without the energy to be truly satisfying." 91 2010 Riesling Kick On Ranch Santa Barbara County ($26) Green-tinged straw. Racy aromas of lime, grapefruit and pear skin, with deeper notes of agave and herbs in the background. Dry, focused, refreshingly bitter citrus pith flavors pack a solid punch but carry no excess weight. The lime note repeats on the long, sappy, linear finish. 90 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Mcginley Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($28) Light, bright yellow. High-pitched aromas of tangerine, lemongrass and green tea, with a dusty overtone. Dry and tightly wound, offering zesty citrus pith and floral flavors and very good clarity and precision. The finish features a hint of bitter quinine and hangs on with excellent tenacity. Fans of Loire Valley sauvignon blanc would love this wine. 91 2009 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($26) (made from the fruit of younger vines in the Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills vineyards): Bright yellow. Highly fragrant scents of fresh orchard and citrus fruits, along with suave floral and spice nuances. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering sappy orange and honeysuckle flavors and sneaky spiciness. The brisk finish features very good cut and snap. 90 2009 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($30) Light gold. Seductively perfumed bouquet of lemon curd, nectarine, jasmine and iodine, with a suave note of mace. Juicy, expansive orchard and pit fruit flavors are lifted by a tangy citrus zest quality, which adds back-end precision. Closes on an impressively focused, stony note, with excellent length. Adam Tolmach told me that these vines are 38 years old. 92

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2009 Chardonnay Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($33) Light, bright gold. Riper and more expressive than the Bien Nacido bottling but missing some of that wine's precision. Plump, expansive orchard and pit fruit flavors are lifted and energized by gentle acidity. The silky finish shows very good persistence and lingering spiciness. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Kick On Ranch Santa Barbara County ($44) Vivid red. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, cherry and Asian spices, with a sexy floral quality and a rhubarb nuance. Fresh and incisive, offering tangy red fruit and floral flavors that gain richness with air. A bitter cherry note comes up on the tight, pure, very persistent finish. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($44) Bright ruby-red. A highly expressive bouquet of pure red fruits and flowers, with slow-building smokiness and notes of licorice and Asian spices. Fresh, incisive and light on its feet, showing excellent clarity to its strawberry and raspberry flavors. Refreshingly bitter on the finish, with the floral and spice notes echoing with real authority. This year's version is even sexier than the excellent 2008. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Presidio Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($49) Bright ruby. The wildest of this set of pinots, offering intense red and dark berry, spice and potpourri scents with notes of musky herbs and cracked pepper. Stains the palate with sweet black raspberry and floral pastille flavors. Finishes juicy and focused, with excellent vivacity and length. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega Sta. Rita Hills ($49) Vibrant ruby. Sexy aromas of candied red berries, rose, lavender and star anise. Pure and incisive on the palate, displaying intense raspberry and cherry flavors and a hint of bitter rhubarb. Extremely suave, seamless pinot with superb clarity to its sweet, persistent finish. Awfully seductive right now but balanced to reward patience. 93 2008 Grenache Thompson Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($33) Vivid ruby. Slowly opens to displays scents of raspberry, cherry pit, white pepper and candied rose. Sappy and precise, with tightly wound red fruit flavors that pick up weight and sweetness with aeration. Shows very good intensity on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity. This promising wine needs some more bottle age. 91(+?) 2008 Syrah Santa Barbara County ($28) Inky purple. Powerful, deeply pitched aromas of black and blue fruits, licorice, olive and violet, with a smoky overtone: very syrah. Sappy, penetrating bitter cherry and blueberry flavors show very good depth and become spicier with aeration. Finishes chewy and sweet, with gentle tannic grip. Offers plenty of upfront appeal but has the structure to age too. 91 2008 Syrah Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($49) Vivid ruby. Intensely perfumed aromas of sexy dark berries and cherry liqueur complemented by graphite, licorice and black cardamom; smells like a serious northern Rhone wine. Deep and sweet but focused, with sappy red and dark berry flavors and hints of smoky herbs and licorice. Picks up a suave floral pastille note on the back half and finishes sweet and long, with a lingering raspberry note. 93 2007 Syrah Melville Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($44) Opaque ruby. Heady aromas of cherry-cola, black raspberry, incense and lavender. Exotic, floral-accented red and dark berry flavors show impressive clarity and sweetness, with complicating notes of candied licorice and floral pastilles. Closes on an alluringly sweet note, with excellent focus and sappy persistence. This velvety syrah is complex enough to enjoy right now. 93 2007 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($38) Glass-staining purple. Cassis, violet and smoky minerals on the intensely spicy nose. Juicy dark berry and spicecake flavors offer very good depth and power. Nicely sweet if a bit slow to open, with peppery and smoky qualities gaining strength on the back half. Finishes with firm tannins, a note of candied violet and lingering spiciness. This wine is still a baby. 92(+?) 2007 Syrah White Hawk Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($38) Inky ruby. Pungent aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry and briary herbs, with slow-mounting smokiness. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors

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show liqueur-like intensity and become spicier with air. Closes down on the finish, which features finegrained tannins and a distinct blueberry quality. I'd stash this one away for a while. 91(+?) 2007 Syrah Roll Ranch Vineyard California ($44) Dark purple. Highly aromatic nose displays textbook syrah aromas of dark berries, violet, pipe tobacco, licorice and olive. Dense, lush, sweet and fine-grained, with a pliant, velvety texture and energetic red and dark berry flavors. Finishes seamless and lively, with echoing floral and berry notes. 92 2006 Syrah Presidio Santa Barbara County ($49) Inky ruby. Complex, intensely perfumed bouquet of raspberry and cherry liqueur, fresh flowers, spicecake and candied licorice. Supple and sweet, with impressive depth and energy to its red fruit flavors. Picks up a darker blackcurrant note with air and finishes with impressive power and assertive florality. This wine should age slowly and gracefully. 92

B & E Vineyard 2008 Red Rhythm Paso Robles ($30) (46% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 14% cabernet franc): Bright ruby. Spicy red fruits on the nose, with a subtle mocha nuance adding depth. Supple raspberry and bitter cherry flavors are firmed by dusty tannins, which gain strength with air. Finishes on a warm note, with notes of cherry and black pepper and good spicy persistence. 87 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Paso Robles ($30) Opaque ruby. Ripe nose offers plum and spicy oak, with an herbal element emerging with air. Sweet, slightly warm flavors of macerated cherries and black pepper gain freshness with aeration and pick up a note of scotch-y oak. Finishes with firm tannins and a lingering note of bitter cherry. 87

Other wines tasted: 2008 Merlot Reserve Paso Robles*, 2007 Red Rhythm Paso Robles.

Palmina As the vineyards Steve Clifton sources for his fruit mature, he believes he'll soon be able "to really see what the potential is to make wines with an Italian sensibility with California fruit." It's a curiosity that with the varied climates available in the Golden State, not to mention its long, deep history of Italian immigrants, so few outstanding wines have been made from Italian varieties here. As has been noted in these pages over the years, Palmina is likely doing the best job of anyone in the state right now. Clifton told me that his winemaking has settled into a groove but that he still tinkers and adjusts, "especially with the whites right now." That's especially evident with his two tocai bottlings, which show the potential for that grape to make wines that are either racy or dense. The recent set of red wines here was impressive up and down the line and I was especially taken by the "little wines" from '09, which offer exuberant fruit and noteworthy complexity. 2009 Lumina Sparkling Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($46) Bright orange-pink. A complex, spice-accented bouquet evokes dried pear, blood orange, rhubarb, anise and musky herbs, plus a hint of white pepper. Refreshingly bitter and precise, with very good depth to its red fruit flavors; a floral quality emerges with air. Finishes brisk and dry, with very good clarity and length. Fascinating stuff, and sure to be very flexible at the table. 92 2010 Pinot Grigio Santa Barbara County ($18) (picked at a very low 19.8 degrees Brix; 12% alcohol): Bright yellow with a hint of pink. Highly aromatic bouquet of nectarine, orange and lemon rind, complemened by notes of anise and ginger. Tangy citrus and poached pear flavors gain flesh and weight with air and pick up a candied floral quality. Finishes firm and long, with lingering spiciness and resonating floral notes. Shows far more richness than the low alcohol level would suggest. 90 2010 Arneis Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($18) Vivid yellow. Smoky aromas and flavors of pear skin, peach pit and fresh herbs. Sappy and broad on entry, then firmer in the mid-palate, with good depth and chewy texture. Finishes broad, smooth and long, with the herbal note echoing. This wine has the heft to handle richer foods but also the vivacity to work with lighter dishes. 90

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2010 Malvasia Bianca Larner Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($28) Light, bright gold. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes pit fruits, lavender, honeycomb and toasted grain, with a strong topnote of white pepper. Rich but lively, with impressive depth to its nectarine, quince and lavender flavors. Finishes bright and racy, with lingering florality and excellent persistence. 91 2010 Tocai Friulano Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($20) Green-tinged straw. High-pitched aromas of citrus fruits, cherry pit and minerals, with a subtle floral quality in the background. Tightly focused and light on its feet, with very good energy and cut to its bitter pit fruit and orange zest flavors. Finishes dry and precise, with very good length and resonating florality. 90 2009 Tocai Friulano Subida Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($20) Bright gold. Bee pollen and pit fruit aromas expand with air, picking up notes of anise and candied ginger. Broad and juicy on the palate, offering intense pear and peach flavors and notes of honeysuckle and bitter herbs. Finishes on a spicy note, with very good clarity and a touch of green tea. 91 2010 Dolcetto Santa Barbara County ($20) Bright violet color. High-pitched aromas of dark berries, minerals and fresh flowers, with a spicy overtone. Juicy cherry and cassis flavors show good poise and clarity, with juicy acidity adding lift. The brisk, clean, persistent finish repeats the spicy note. 89 2009 Barbera Santa Barbara County ($24) Bright purple. Black and blue fruits on the highly fragrant nose. Broad and sappy, with deep cherry and blueberry flavors complemented by notes of candied violet and cracked pepper. Finishes with good peppery bite and length, the cherry note repeating. 90 2009 Lagrein Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($36) Vivid purple. Exotically perfumed scents of dark berry preserves, lavender and licorice, with a slow-building note of black pepper. Shows very good energy and focus, with strong bite to its bitter cherry and mulberry flavors. Dusty tannins add grip to the long, spice-accented finish. This intriguing wine will be very flexible at the table. 91 2009 Alisos Vineyard Red Blend Santa Barbara County ($28) (80% sangiovese and 20% merlot): Bright ruby. Smoky cherry and red berries on the nose, with notes of rose, cured meat and cracked pepper adding complexity. Weighty cherry and raspberry flavors show no rough edges and gain sweetness with air. Chewy and expansive wine with very good finishing power and lingering red fruit, floral and smoke qualities. This promising blend needs some more bottle age. Steve Clifton told me that some of the sangiovese here got the ripasso treatment. 90(+?) 2008 Sangiovese Undici Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($36) (100% sangiovese): Deep ruby. Complex, high-toned scents of dried cherry, botanical herbs, rose and Asian spices, with a smoky overtone. Bitter cherry and licorice flavors pick up sweetness with air and show very good intensity and focus. The cherry and herb notes repeat on the very long, sappy, penetrating finish. Pretty wild stuff. 91 2008 Savoia Santa Barbara County ($50) (50% nebbiolo and 25% each of barbera and syrah): Full red. Intensely perfumed aromas of red berry preserves, rose oil and star anise, with a hint of smokiness. Bright and precise on the palate, with very good depth to its raspberry and cherry flavors. The spicy note comes back on the impressively long, vibrant finish. No excess fat here. 91 2007 Nebbiolo Santa Barbara County ($30) Bright red. Cherry and rose aromas are complicated by notes of vanilla and peppery spices. Lively red fruit and floral pastille flavors are given spine by tangy acidity and pick up weight with air. The cherry note resonates on the long, sappy, gently spicy finish. 90 2006 Nebbiolo Stolpman Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($40) Medium red. Dried cherry, redcurrant, pipe tobacco and woodsmoke on the fragrant nose. Taut and spicy on entry, with firm-edged red fruit and candied rose flavors and a touch of bitter herbs. Sweeter on the finish, which clings with very good tenacity and repeats the cherry note. 90 2006 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($50) Deep red. High-pitched red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by star anise, pipe tobacco and cracked pepper. Bright, spicy and precise, with excellent clarity to its redcurrant and cherry flavors. Becomes sweeter with air and closes on alluring spicecake and floral pastille notes, with impressive length. No rough edges here: this drinks very well

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right now. 92 2006 Nebbiolo Honea Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($70) Vivid red. Intense aromas of cherry pit, licorice and violet become spicier with air. Juicy, incisive dark fruit flavors boast serious depth and focus, with a firm spine of acidity adding lift. A sexy floral nuance carries through the very long, sappy finish. Packs a serious punch but there's a lively quality here as well. 92

Barton Family Winery 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Central Coast ($16) Bright gold. A ripe, fleshy rendition of the variety, offering aromas and flavors of nectarine, melon and honey. Smooth and open-knit, finishing with good cling and a slight dry edge. 87 2010 Blanc Y Blanc Central Coast ($14) (a 50/50 blend of grenache blanc and sauvignon blanc): Light gold. Aromatic nose displays melon, peach and a suggestion of herbs. Silky and pliant in the mouth, with good depth to its ripe honeydew and pit fruit flavors. Shows a bit of heat on the finish, which echoes the melon note. 87 2008 The Dance Paso Robles ($36) (60% cabernet sauvignon and 20% each of cabernet franc and malbec): Dark purple. Powerful, expressive aromas of black and blue fruits, cherry pit and licorice, with a smoky oak note emerging with air. Big, dense and sappy, offering ripe, deep cassis and mulberry. The tannins build with air and linger on the gripping, smoke-accented finish. 89

Paul Lato Wines Paul Lato told me that his basic philosophy is to buy the best possible fruit that he can get, from the best-tended vineyards, "because it is completely obvious that this is the only way to make superior wine. All the hard work in the world won't make average fruit into excellent wine." That's an expensive proposition, he admits, and by necessity limits the scale of his work. Lato's production was especially low in 2009, when severely reduced yields cut his production by over 50%. All of the grapes here are destemmed and the wines are raised in anywhere from 25% to 100% new French oak "from the best tonneliers, regardless of price, because you can't have mediocre wood ruining great, expensive fruit." 2009 Chardonnay Le Souvenir Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($55) (all Wente clone, raised in 70% new French oak; made with native yeasts and no battonage): Bright gold. Pear, candied ginger, quinine and an element of toasty lees on the pungent nose. Then dense, tactile and focused, with fresh orchard fruit flavors complicated by gingery spice, minerals and iodine. Taut but powerful on the long finish, which echoes the toast, ginger and mineral notes. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Gold Coast Vineyard Duende Santa Maria Valley ($60) (all Martini clone): Bright ruby. Hugely aromatic nose offers an expansive set of dark berry, floral and spice qualities. Rich but strikingly fresh, with intense black raspberry and mulberry flavors and sweet rose and lavender pastille notes. Turns brighter with air, picking up notes of white pepper and allspice. Finishes tangy, tight and very long, the floral notes echoing. This wine should be even better with a couple more years of bottle age. 92(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Solomon Hills Vineyard Suerte Santa Maria Valley ($65) Bright ruby-red. Black and blue fruits on the nose and palate, with complicating notes of cola, incense and floral oils. Juicy and penetrating, with a velvety texture and a hint of bitter chocolate on the finish. Rich but lithe pinot with excellent finishing clarity and spicy persistence. This is awfully delicious right now but it also benefits quite a bit from aeration. 92(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Alegria Hilliard Bruce Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($70) Vivid ruby-red. Vibrant red and dark berries on the nose, with sexy Asian spices, fresh rose and bright minerality adding complexity. A silky, graceful midweight, offering vivid raspberry and floral pastille flavors and slow-building spiciness. Shows striking minerality and sappiness, finishing with outstanding clarity and persistence. 93

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2009 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard Lancelot Santa Lucia Highlands ($80) Bright ruby. Sexy, complex bouquet of blackberry, cherry-cola and smoky Indian spices. Brighter raspberry and rose qualities on the velvety, seamless palate, lifted by alluring spiciness. At once rich and energetic, finishing with excellent clarity and lingering sweetness. This wine's depth and power suggest that it will reward patience. 92(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Seabiscuit Zotovich Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($65) Bright ruby. Seductively perfumed scents of candied red berries, Asian spices and sandalwood, with a hint of smokiness. Juicy, sweet and penetrating, with impressive depth and clarity to its rose pastille, raspberry and cherry flavors. This lithe, precise pinot finishes with superb cut and floral-driven length. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Sine Cerra Sta. Rita Hills ($70) Bright ruby-red. High-pitched aromas of redcurrant and strawberry, with exotic incense and Asian spice notes adding complexity. Juicy, finely etched red fruit flavors show noteworthy intensity and pick up sweetness and depth with air. Clings with serious tenacity on the finish, repeating the red berry note and leaving a nervy mineral quality behind. 92 2009 Syrah Cinematique Larner Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($75) (includes 5% co-fermented viognier): Inky ruby. Explosively perfumed bouquet evokes dark berry preserves, cola, violet and Indian spices, along with an exotic suggestion of apricot. Broad, sappy and intense, with serious thrust to its sappy blackberry and mulberry flavors. Finishes juicy, sweet and long, with lingering floral and spice notes. The malo stretched into May 2010 for this wine as well as for the Il Padrino. 93 2009 Syrah Il Padrino Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($85) Bright purple. Highly aromatic, wild scents of dark berry liqueur, spicecake, incense and crushed violet. Reminds me of syrahs that get whole-cluster vinification but all of these grapes were destemmed. Sappy, spicy and precise on the palate, offering an array of dark fruit and spice flavors and notes of candied licorice and violet. Finishes long and spicy, with excellent clarity and lingering florality. 93

Beckmen Vineyards 2009 Le Bec Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($18) (46% marsanne, 38% roussanne and 16% grenache blanc): Bright gold. Tangerine and peach on the nose, with notes of white pepper and honeysuckle adding lift. Broad and pliant, offering juicy pit fruit flavors and a hint of mango. Lots of fruit here. Finishes smooth and sappy, with lingering spiciness and a touch of bitter citrus zest. 88 2009 Cuvee Le Bec Santa Ynez Valley ($18) (45% grenache, 34% syrah, 14% mourvedre and 7% counoise): Bright violet color. Aromas of dark berries and cola, with a subtle note of peppery spices and a hint of mocha. Deeply pitched cherry and blackberry flavors show a slight bitterness and a touch of cracked pepper. Finishes with good grip and length, leaving a spicy cherry note behind. 88 2009 Grenache Purisima Mountain Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($48) Bright purple. Scents of blackberry and mulberry, with notes of smoky herbs and flowers adding complexity. Plump, palatecaressing dark fruit flavors show very good depth and pick up spiciness with air. This lush, creamy wine finishes with very good breadth and sweet persistence. 91 2009 Syrah Purisima Mountain Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($48) Saturated ruby. Dark berries, violet, sassafras and woodsmoke on the fragrant nose. Pliant blackberry and boysenberry flavors provide very good palate coverage and pick up spiciness with air. Finishes sappy and long, with repeating dark berry and smoke notes. This is already drinking very well but also has the depth to age. 90 2009 Syrah Clone #1 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($52) Opaque ruby. Pungent, exotic perfume of dark berry preserves, olive, fresh flowers and smoky Indian spices. Stains the palate with blueberry and mulberry flavors, picking up notes of bitter chocolate and fruitcake with aeration. Juicy and focused on the finish, which shows an alluringly sweet quality and excellent persistence. 92 2009 Syrah Estate Santa Ynez Valley ($25) Inky violet color. Pungent dark berries and licorice on the slow-to-open nose. Bitter cherry and cassis flavors are complicated by black pepper and black cardamom, with a hint of camphor on the back end. Very young and in need of patience. The finish is firm, gripping and nicely persistent if a bit clenched today. 88(+?)

Samsara This year's line-up of wines confirmed for me the rapid ascension of Chad Melville's Samsara to the

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upper tier of Santa Barbara wineries, but production here is still small. "It always will be," Melville told me, "because that's how I want it." He has plenty of other activities on his plate, he said, especially the management of his family's Melville vineyard. Although he loves to work with whole clusters for fermentation he doesn't want to get stuck on a recipe. "If the stems are right for whole-cluster work, I use them. If they're not right, out they go." It's rare that he will use more than 25% new oak "because that's pretty much my limit for where it takes away from the fruit." The one bottled pinot from 2010 and barrel samples of a number of other wines from that year suggest that it will be a very successful group of intense but elegant wines, by the way. Melville was able to pick into November "without the sugars running away and without any drop in acidity," he told me. 2010 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills ($30) Bright ruby. Fresh red berry aromas are complicated by licorice and violet. Nervy and precise on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering sweet black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Pure and focused pinot with impressive finishing sweetness and length. For an entrylevel wine this is excellent. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Rancho La Vina Sta. Rita Hills ($46) (made with 75% whole clusters; 13.3% alcohol): Vivid ruby-red. High-pitched aromas of raspberry and fresh rose, with a strong overlay of Asian spices. Silky, sweet and energetic, offering lovely red fruit and spicecake flavors that expand with air. Fruit-driven and pure on the finish, which clings with serious tenacity. I really like this wine's blend of power and vivacity. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Kessler-Haak Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($46) (50% whole clusters, 20% new oak): Light, bright red. Pure, vibrant aromas of raspberry, candied cherry and rose, with slow-mounting spiciness. A lithe, juicy midweight that offers sweet red fruit and floral pastille flavors and shows no rough edges. Very suave and precise on the finish, with the spice note repeating. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Turner Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($42) (50% whole cluster-fermented; aged in 25% new oak): Deep, bright red. Seductively perfumed aromas of red berry preserves, potpourri and sandalwood, with a peppery topnote. Rich and lively, displaying very good depth and sweetness to its silky raspberry and cherry-cola flavors. Finishes smooth, sappy and very long, leaving spice and floral notes behind. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Melville Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($48) (50% whole cluster-fermented): Deep, bright red. Seductively perfumed aromas of candied red fruit and licorice, with strong violet and allspice qualities gaining strength with air. Juicy, palate-staining black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors are extremely youthful, offering an impressive blend of depth and energy and nicely lifted by tangy acidity. The floral quality dominates the long, sappy, impressively pure finish. This should be a real knockout in a couple years. 93(+?) 2009 Grenache Larner Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($36) (100% whole clusters used for this wine; no new oak): Bright ruby-red. Fresh red berries and potpourri on the nose, with complicating notes of star anise and white pepper. Juicy, sweet and expansive, with a seamless texture and excellent clarity to its strawberry and raspberry preserve flavors. Vibrant and focused on the finish, which lingers with impressive tenacity and persistence. 92 2009 Syrah Vernas Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($28) Glass-staining ruby. Wild, highly aromatic scents of dark berry compote, smoky herbs and violet, with a strong spicy overtone. Deeply pitched blueberry and cassis flavors stain the palate, showing impressive clarity and intensity. Very fresh and focused on the finish, with the cassis and spice notes repeating. 91 2009 Syrah Melville Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($40) Bright purple. Intensely perfumed scents of black and blue fruits, olive and violet, with sexy Indian spice nuances and a touch of woodsmoke. Broad, sappy, alluringly sweet cassis, boysenberry and floral pastille flavors show superb clarity and power, with cracked pepper and black cardamon notes on the back half. Finishes sappy and long, with resonating spiciness, florality and outstanding persistence. This wine was fermented with 100% whole clusters and was one of the most intriguing bottles that I tasted from the region this year. 94 2008 Syrah 228 Sta. Rita Hills ($48) (raised in a single, new Sirugue barrique): Inky ruby. Highly perfumed, spice-accented bouquet evokes cherry-cola, black raspberry, potpourri and Asian spices. Graceful and precise, with sappy, sweet red fruit flavors that gain heft and smokiness with air. Extremely suave and precise, finishing with outstanding clarity and floral-driven persistence. This could pass for a serious pinot noir from this area and I suspect that fans of full-throttle New World syrah will not understand

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this wine. 93

Belle Glos Wines 2009 Pinot Noir Clark And Telephone Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($44) Deep ruby. Exotically perfumed, oak-spiced aromas of red and dark berries, spicecake and licorice, with a vanilla note gaining strength with air. Broad and fleshy but energetic, offering sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors and notes of licorice and smoke. Finishes on a gently tannic note, with lingering spiciness and an echo of vanilla bean. This wine could handle the richest red meat dishes. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Los Alturas Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($44) Vivid ruby-red. Ripe cherry and black raspberry on the nose, complicated by intense spiciness and notes of toasty oak and violet. Broad, palate-coating dark berry flavors are lifted by tangy acidity and pick up a floral pastille quality with aeration. The blackberry element carries through on the finish, which lingers with very good, sweet tenacity. Nothing shy about this one. 90

Sanguis Matthias Pippig is now working out of his own facility, which sits smack in the middle of the city of Santa Barbara. He told me that he's pretty much self-contained, with his own bottling line that allows the flexibility to begin the process exactly when he wants "without scheduling months out, changing my mind, and then praying that I can get a bottling truck scheduled when I finally do decide to bottle." The Sanguis wines are still rich, bold and deeply fruity but this year's set of wines shows a bit more elegance than I've seen before. Everything is relative and these are still distinctly massive, extroverted wines that make emphatic, fruit-driven statements. 2009 Chardonnay Ode To Sunshine California ($60) (100% chardonnay from the Bien Nacido vineyard): Hazy gold. Wild, complex bouquet evokes pear skin, nectarine, macadamia nut and marzipan, with an oak spice note that gains strength with air. Ripe and broad but lively, with deep orchard and pit fruit flavors showing very good clarity and spiciness. Finishes long and sappy, with very good cut. 91 2009 Lotus Of Siam California ($50) (88% roussanne and 12% viognier): Bright yellow-gold. Pit fruits, vanilla, poached pear and a smoky nuance on the nose. Gently sweet on entry, then brighter and spicier in the mid-palate, offering lively orange and nectarine flavors and notes of tarragon and clove. Finishes with excellent grip and spicy persistence, the orange note echoing. 91 2007 Las Mujeres California ($60) (68% grenache, 26% syrah, 4% roussanne and 2% viognier): Deep purple with a bright rim. Sexy aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, violet and smoky Indian spices. Lush and creamy but vibrant, with very good clarity and lift to its black raspberry and mulberry flavors. Finishes long and sweet, with persistent florality and impressive vivacity. 92 2008 Polly Anne California ($75) (72% greanche, 26% syrah and 2% viognier): Inky purple. Highpitched aromas of boysenberry, black raspberry, potpourri and incense. Exotic and deep in red and dark berry compote and candied licorice flavors, showing a velvety texture and impressive energy. The floral note gains strength with air and carries through a very long, sweet, intensely floral finish. 93 2008 John Henry California ($65) (43% syrah, 35% grenache, 17% cabernet sauvignon, 3% viognier and 2% roussanne): Vivid purple. Highly perfumed, exotic bouquet of dark berries, sandalwood, rose pastille and Asian spices. Sweet, expansive and lively on the palate, offering sweet blackberry and mulberry qualities and intense floral and spicecake character. Clings with impressive tenacity, leaving sweet berry and floral notes behind. 93 2007 Syrah The Oracle Of Delphi California ($75) (syrah with 4% viognier): Bright purple. Highly perfumed scents of blackberry, Indian spices and violet, with black pepper, olive and smoky mineral notes emerging with air. Juicy, penetrating and sweet, offering deep dark berry flavors and a strong spicy underpinning. Broad but impressively vibrant, finishing with excellent clarity and echoes of candied violet and spicy dark berries. 93

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2008 Endangered Species California ($70) (92% syrah, 5% viognier and 3% roussanne): Opaque purple. Pungent aromas of blackberry, cassis, candied licorice, cracked pepper and mocha. Dense, layered and quite lively, offering sweet blackberry, spicecake and olive flavors. Finishes with broad, supple tannins and very persistent dark berry flavor. 92 2008 The Prophet Syrah California ($80) (made from Bien Nacido fruit and raised in 70% new oak): Inky purple. Explosive, highly perfumed aromas of blueberry and mulberry, cherry-cola, patchouli and violet, with a smoky overtone. Deep, candied dark fruit flavors are impressively concentrated, with intense violet pastille and spicecake notes building in the mid-palate. Extremely rich, velvety syrah with a jolt of candied licorice carrying through the long, spicy finish. 93

Big Basin Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir Coastview Vineyard Monterey County ($42) Vivid red. Black raspberry and cherry on the highly perfumed, spice-accented nose. Broad, juicy and very precise, with energetic dark berry flavors and notes of spicecake and vanilla. Finishes sweet, smoky and very long, with lingering florality and excellent clarity. This wine was fermented with 15% whole clusters, according to owner/winemaker Bradley Brown. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Alfaro Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains ($44) Vivid red. Sexy red fruits and Asian spices on the nose, with deeper notes of cola and mocha adding complexity. Sappy and intensely fruity, with very good depth and clarity to its raspberry and cherry compote flavors. The sweet finish shows strong spicy cut. Blends opulence with vivacity and offers plenty of immediate appeal, but this wine is balanced to age. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Lester Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains ($42) Bright ruby-red. Smoky cherry and black raspberry on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice, underbrush and espresso. Sweet, penetrating dark berry flavors show very good depth, with tangy acidity giving the wine good back-end cut. Finishes with very good chewy persistence, the smoke and licorice notes repeating. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Woodruff Family Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains ($48) Vivid red. Highly perfumed, spice-accented bouquet of redcurrant, raspberry and potpourri. Offers vibrant red fruit and floral pastille flavors, silky texture and very good tangy lift. This is pretty suave stuff. Leaves a strong impression of spicy red fruits behind, along with a hint of candied rose. Distinctly elegant pinot with the balance to age. 93 2008 Grizzly Santa Cruz Mountains ($48) (62% grenache and 38% syrah; 15.8% alcohol): Glassstaining ruby. Smoky, pungent aromas of black raspberry, cherry-cola, dried flowers and herbs, with a suave note of mocha and mounting spiciness. Ripe, fleshy and broad, with serious punch to its red and dark berry compote and floral pastille flavors. Clings impressively on the finish, with the raspberry and cola notes repeating. 90 2009 Homestead Santa Cruz Mountains ($33) (46% grenache, 43% syrah and 11% cabernet sauvignon): Bright violet color. Black raspberry, cherry and a touch of mint on the fragrant nose. Juicy and taut on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, offering fresh red and dark berry flavors and a hint of palate-numbing cracked pepper. Finishes bright and spicy, with very good clarity and smoky persistence. 91 2008 Odeon Red Wine Santa Cruz Mountains ($45) (57% syrah and 43% cabernet sauvignon; raised in 86% new French oak): Saturated ruby. A complex, perfumed bouquet evokes red- and blackcurrant, cherry-vanilla, pipe tobacco and candied flowers. Juicy and precise on entry, then broader in the middle, offering deeply pitched dark fruit flavors and notes of violet and black cardamom. Turns spicier on the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and length. This wine benefits a lot from aeration. 92(+?) 2008 Syrah Coastview Vineyard Monterey ($48) Deep violet color. A sexy, complex bouquet shows an array of black and blue fruits, sandalwood, licorice and candied violet. Sweet, palate-staining blueberry and cherry-cola flavors are lifted by gentle acidity and show a seamless texture. Ripe and fleshy but vibrant, with excellent finishing clarity and resonating spiciness. This wine's blend of power and energy is impressive. 93 2008 Syrah Rattlesnake Rock Santa Cruz Mountains ($55) (includes 7% grenache): Opaque ruby.

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Pungent red and dark berries on the nose, complicated by dried flowers, anise, smoke and cracked pepper. An intensely spicy, focused midweight that offers energetic black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors enlivened by tangy acidity. Impressively pure and lithe syrah with suave finishing florality and lingering spiciness. 93 2008 Syrah Frenchies Santa Cruz Mountains ($69) Opaque ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays scents of candied black and blue fruits, incense, vanilla and violet, with an overlay of sexy oak spice (this was raised in 100% new barrels). Supple, sweet and broad, with strikingly deep blackberry and blueberry flavors given spine by zesty acidity. Finishes sweet, spicy and very long, with resonating floral and smoke notes. 93

Saxum Vineyards As Justin Smith's James Berry Vineyard's vines mature, he believes, "the potential and character of the site will become more and more evident." Smith has about 55 acres planted to vine and still sells off a lot of fruit to other upper-tier wineries. Those grapes usually find their way into those producers' top bottlings, a testimony to the Smith family's farming. Smith said that the key to the complexity of his fruit, and wines, besides the fact that the vines are in the cool, windy Templeton gap, is that the vines enjoy numerous expositions. This allows for a harvest that can be spread out over as many as six weeks as north-facing sites are picked much later than the warmer, southfacing vines. This year's set of wines was predictably outstanding, and their release prices are low for what's in the bottle. 2008 Syrah James Berry Vineyard Bone Rock Paso Robles ($75) Bright purple. Amazingly complex bouquet of spice-accented cassis, candied blackberry, fresh violet, cocoa powder and smoky minerals. Densely packed and sweet but also bright and lively, with potent dark berry, floral and licorice candy flavors that become smokier and spicier with air. Fine-grained, supple tannins come on late. This rich but lithe wine shows enormous potential but drinks extremely well now, with some aeration. 95 2009 Broken Stones Paso Robles ($85) (60% syrah, 20% mourvedre, 12% petite sirah and 8% grenache): Glass-staining purple. Highly complex, intensely perfumed bouquet of red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, licorice and pipe tobacco, with a strong note of pepperyspices. Deep and juicy, offering palate-staining raspberry and boysenberry flavors and a complete absence of rough edges. Closes sappy and sweet, with excellent clarity and spicy thrust. Really vivacious wine, and balanced to age. 94 2009 James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles ($85) (57% grenache, 31% mourvedre and 12% syrah): Deep, bright violet. Intensely perfumed black raspberry and blueberry on the nose, with seductive Asian spice, lavender and incense qualities emerging with air. Sappy red and dark berry liqueur flavors are lifted by juicy acidity picking up suave spice and floral pastille notes on the back end. Velvety tannins provide shape but are absorbed by the lush fruit, which carries through an extremely long, sappy, incisive finish. 96 2009 Booker Vineyard Paso Robles ($85) (70% syrah and 30% mourvedre): Opaque purple. Wild, expressive aromas of dark berries, cherry-cola, candied licorice, woodsmoke and Indian spices. Sappy and expansive, with excellent clarity and depth, and a seamless character, to its sweet blackberry and mulberry flavors. Becomes spicier with air and finishes with superb energy and lingering sweetness. 94 2009 Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles ($85) (39% zinfandel, 38% syrah, 13% petite sirah and 10% mourvedre, all co-fermented): Inky purple. Seductively perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, potpourri, Asian spices, anise and mocha. Broad, sweet and spicy in the mouth, showing outstanding vivacity to its black and blue fruit flavors accented by clove and candied flowers. Finishes spicy and lucid. This is the first release for this bottling. 93

Blair Fox Cellars 2008 Syrah Paradise Road Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($37) (includes 3% viognier): Opaque purple. Highly perfumed aromas of blackberry, cola and violet, with a spicy oak note and a hint of cracked pepper. Pliant and broad, offering juicy dark berry and cherry flavors that pick up spiciness with air. Smooth and focused on the finish, with the spicy note repeating. 90

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2008 Syrah Purisma Mountain Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($39) Deep violet color. Exotic perfume of dark berry preserves, olive tapenade, cracked pepper and cola, with a slow-building florality. Round and creamy on the palate, offering juicy cherry-cola and blackberry flavors and a touch of candied licorice. A note of bitter chocolate comes up on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity and length. 92 2008 Syrah Tierra Alta Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($39) Glass-staining purple. Aromas of black and blue fruits and candied flowers, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and sweet on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering bitter cherry, mulberry and dark chocolate flavors and a touch of spiciness. Finishes smooth and long, with the spicy quality carrying through. 90 2008 Syrah Thompson Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($42) Vivid purple. Primary aromas of blackberry, blueberry and potpourri, with hints of allspice and star anise. Dense, ripe and chewy, with suave, perfumed dark berry and floral pastille flavors gaining sweetness with air. Energetic, spicy and very long, with firm but harmonious tannins adding shape to the finish. 92 2008 The Dare Santa Barbara County ($52) (100% syrah, from the Tierra Alta, Paradise Road, Purisima Mountain and Thompson vineyards): Dark purple. A seductively perfumed scents of ripe boysenberry, cherry, woodsmoke and violet. Deeply pitched dark berry flavors are lifted by tangy acidity and gain spiciness and sweetness with air. Shows impressive clarity and energy on the smoky, very persistent finish, which echoes the dark berry note. For such a rich wine this is quite vivacious. 92

Sine Qua Non Manfred Krankl's new winery, which sits on his home vineyard in Oak View, is now fully operational, although he told me that he hasn't given up his old facility in Ventura "because it has some kind of a hold on us. It's really hard to just walk away from a place that has such a personal history." The new spot is light years removed from his cozy but efficient winery and Krankl was able to build it "literally from the ground up. All the shortcomings of the old place could be addressed, starting with my own mental pictures and sketches, so this is truly a dream realized." He has become especially interested in working with concrete fermentation vessels and says that although his natural skepticism wanted to deny that concrete tanks could have a dramatic effect, "what is coming out of them is completely convincing. There's a texture to the wines that's different, and that I like." I noticed an extra degree of finesse in the set of wines I tasted this year, which Krankl said was in line with his goal to fine-tune his winemaking and get wines that have both density and energy. In addition to the wines reviewed here, I was able to taste a number of wines that were either just bottled or in the bottling process when I visited Krankl last fall. The 2008 The Line grenache was still surprisingly open for view, with a velvety texture and deep dark fruit character. The 2007 Dangerous Birds grenache, which was a bit clenched last year, is still a bright, youthful wine but has also developed an array of spice and floral qualities in the last year. The 2008 B-20 syrah, which was distinctly elegant a year ago, has put on weight and picked up power; it's a wine to age. The 2007 Dangerous Birds syrah, on the other hand, is a round, fleshy, extremely sexy wine that is delicious right now, but I have no doubt that it will age effortlessly. 2010 "White Wine" California ($100) (a blend of 66% roussanne, 20% viognier and 14% chardonnay): Yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, nectarine, honey and chamomile, with notes of butterscotch and herbs in the background. Broad, fleshy and smooth, offering sappy orchard and pit fruit flavors and a hint of sweet butter. Finishes chewy, focused and very long, with resonating floral and pear skin notes. This big boy would be great with a buttery shellfish or poultry dish. 93 2009 On The Lam California ($100) (48% roussanne, 34% chardonnay and 18% viognier): Vivid gold. Intense, floral-accented scents of orange zest, pit fruit and candied ginger. Powerful and broad but surprisingly energetic, offering sappy, palate-staining citrus marmalade and peach flavors lifted by tangy acidity. A suave honey note comes up with air and carries through the long, spicy finish. 94 2009 Grenache Upside Down Santa Barbara County ($145) (includes 11% syrah and 5% mourvedre): Bright purple. Highly complex aromas of black raspberry, cherry pit, licorice and black pepper, complemented by more exotic hints of apricot and white flowers. Suave and juicy on entry, then alluringly sweet and vibrant in the mid-palate, with vivid red and dark fruit compote, lavender and Indian

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spice flavors. Finishes very long, with terrific energy and clinging spiciness. 95 2008 Grenache The Duel Sta. Rita Hills ($220) (includes 17% syrah, 2% viognier and 1% roussanne; all estate fruit, from the Krankls' Eleven Confessions vineyard): Glass-staining purple. Deeply pitched black and blue fruit aromas are complemented by mocha, potpourri and musky herbs. Very rich but lively as well, with intense dark berry compote, cherry-cola and spicecake flavors that show no rough edges. A sexy note of candied flowers comes up with air and carries through an extremely long, sappy, spiceaccented finish. 94-96 2009 Syrah The Thrill Of...California ($145) (includes 4.5% grenache and 2.5% viognier; aged in 50% new oak): Deep, glass-staining purple. Hugely aromatic and complex, offering aromas and flavors of boysenberry, cassis, licorice candy, cola and mocha. Deeply pitched, sappy and broad, with a velvety texture and slow-building smokiness. Refuses to let go on the finish, which features intense note of blue fruits and licorice. 94-96 2008 Syrah The Duel Sta. Rita Hills ($220) (includes 4% grenache and 3% viognier, all from the Eleven Confessions vineyard, and aged in 50% new oak): Opaque purple. Highly perfumed bouquet of blueberry, boysenberry, violet and incense. Coats the palate with deep, velvety dark berry compote flavors and exotic Asian spices. Picks up bitter chocolate and candied violet character on the sweet, sappy, strikingly long finish. Boasts an uncanny blend of richness and energy. Any fan of Sine Qua Non should ignore their conscience and get their hands on a bottle of this. 95-97

Bonaccorsi Wine Company 2008 Chardonnay Melville Vineyard Santa Rita Hills ($45) Hazy yellow. Ripe, lees-accented citrus and pear aromas are complicated by honeysuckle and dusty minerals. Bright lemon and orchard fruit flavors are deep and chewy, perked up by gentle minerality and a touch of anise. Clings nicely on the long, juicy finish, which features a suave floral quality. Offers an enticing blend of richness and vivacity. 91 2008 Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($50) (raised in all Francois Freres barrels, 60% of them new): Bright ruby-red. Captivating aromas of cherry-vanilla, licorice, mocha and smoky Indian spices. Sweet, concentrated and chewy, with powerful but lithe dark fruit flavors and a sexy note of allspice. Displays a very suave aromatic character and finishes with silky, fully integrated tannins and impressive length. 92 2008 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Ruby-red. Explosively perfumed nose offers aromas of red and dark berry preserves, flowers and incense, along with notes of woodsmoke and star anise. Sappy and penetrating, with excellent clarity to its sweet black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors. Rich yet impressively vibrant, finishing with outstanding thrust and persistent florality. 93 2008 Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Bright red. Highly perfumed aromas of red berries, potpourri and spicy oak. Sweet, silky and seamless, with captivating strawberry and raspberry preserve flavors and an array of Asian spice nuances. In a distinctly elegant style, with noteworthy focus and vivacity. Finishes with excellent length and lingering florality. 92 2008 Pinot Noir Melville Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Ruby-red. The richest and most powerful of this year's set of pinots, offering aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cherry and licorice, with a touch of cola. Deeply pitched, smoky dark berry flavors are lifted by tangy acidity and gain spiciness with air. Finishes juicy and long, with the cola note recurring. 91 2008 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Vivid red. Pungent, intensely perfumed aromas of raspberry, cherry pit, fresh flowers and minerals. Fleshy red fruit flavors coat the palate, showing excellent energy and sneaky depth. A deeply flavored but lively style of pinot, with no excess weight and serious finishing punch. 92

Tablas Creek Vineyard

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Jason Haas and his winemaker/vineyard manager Neal Collins told me that they're particularly excited about exploring the potential for varieties outside the traditional Rhone palette that they helped establish in Paso Robles. There's a bottling of petit manseng made here now, which joins the tannat, picpoul and vermentino as alien varietal wines at this pioneering winery. "Who knows what will actually turn out to work best here?" Haas asked rhetorically. It's pretty humbling to be considered the old-timer when you've only been set up for about 25 years. In historic wine terms, that's the blink of an eye." This year's set of releases includes a new bottling, Patelin, that comes in both a red and a white version and includes some purchased fruit. These are now the entrylevel bottlings here, which allows the Cotes de Tablas wines to be pushed up the cellar hierarchy and be given higher-quality fruit than before. According to Collins,"the Cotes de Tablas wines were always too serious to be considered the basic wines, and now we hope that they'll be taken for what they are, not looked at simply as the low end of the collection." 2010 Vermentino Paso Robles ($27) Green-tinged straw. High-pitched aromas of pear, candied lemon and mango, with slow-building spiciness. Very fresh and sappy, with deep but lithe orchard and tropical fruit flavors framed by bracing acidity. The tangy finish features lingering spiciness. This would work well with rich or lighter foods. 90 2010 Patelin De Tablas Blanc Paso Robles ($20) (50% grenache blanc, 33% viognier, 10% roussanne and 7% marsanne; made from a blend of estate-grown and purchased fruit): Bright yellow. Fresh lemon and pear aromas are complemented by notes of green almond and white pepper. Focused and racy, offering spicy citrus pith and orchard fruit flavors and a hint of bitter quinine. Finishes on a dry, stony note, with very good tangy length. This is a really impressive freshman effort. 89 2010 Cotes De Tablas Blanc Paso Robles ($27) (54% viognier, 30% grenache blanc, 8% marsanne and 8% roussanne): Bright yellow-gold. Fresh melon and peach on the fragrant nose. A juicy, energetic midweight that offers fresh honeydew and pit fruit flavors and a hint of candied orange. Finishes smooth, spicy and very long, leaving notes of fresh flowers and white pepper behind. 90 2010 Grenache Blanc Paso Robles ($27) Light yellow. Lemon curd, yellow plum and candied ginger on the fragrant nose. Broad, spicy and vibrant, with a spicy character and noteworthy verve to its pit fruit flavors. Rich and substantial but lithe, with a long finish that's taut and well-focused. Shows admirable delicacy and cut for a New World version of this variety. 91 2010 Picpoul Blanc Paso Robles ($27) Light yellow. Ripe pear and yellow plum aromas and flavors show a resinous quality and a touch of bitter herbs. Chewy and broad, with a gentle citrus note on the back end adding lift and cut. Packs a punch but shows good vivacity and finishes with good length and a touch of warmth. 88 2010 Marsanne Paso Robles ($30) Light, green-tinged yellow. Complex, spice-accented bouquet evokes green apple, quince and white flowers. Juicy and precise, with good depth to its fresh orchard fruit flavors. Shows a refreshingly bitter quality on the finish, which clings with impressive authority. For a New World rendition of marsanne this wine shows impressive delicacy. 90 2010 Roussanne Paso Robles ($30) Bright yellow-gold. Fresh orange and pear aromas are complicated by dusty minerals and white flowers. Silky in texture, with good energy and focus to the zesty citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Spiciness builds on the nervy, very persistent finish. 91 2010 Esprit De Beaucastel Blanc Paso Robles ($40) (60% roussanne, 35% grenache blanc and 5% picpoul blanc): Light, bright gold. Complex, intensely perfumed scents of fresh pear, nectarine, licorice and smoky minerals. Sappy, palate-staining pit fruit and citrus flavors show a compelling blend of richness and vivacity and gain sweetness in the middle. Big and broad but very lively, finishing with excellent clarity and spicy persistence. 93 2010 Antithesis Paso Robles ($35) (100% chardonnay): Bright yellow. Powerful aromas of poached pear, melon and white flowers, with a hint of anise. Juicy and deeply pitched, with very good focus to its orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and sappy, with echoing pear and floral notes. Very elegant chardonnay with the balance to age. 90

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2010 Petit Manseng Paso Robles ($35) (picked at 26 degrees Brix, with a very low pH of 3.1): Greentinged gold. Ripe melon, peach and honey on the nose, with a hint of candied ginger adding lift. Broad and sappy, showing good depth to its melon and candied pit fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and gently sweet, leaving behind persistent floral and peach nectar notes. This intriguing wine finished with 50 g/l residual sugar and 13.5% alcohol, but it doesn't show any cloying character. It would be fantastic with a cheese course or with spicy foods, even fruit desserts. 91 2009 Patelin De Tablas Paso Robles ($20) (39% syrah, 36% grenache, 22% mourvedre and 3% counoise): Bright purple. Highly expressive aromas of raspberry, mulberry and licorice, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and focused, offering lively, focused flavors of red fruits and anise complicated by a touch of bitter chocolate. Finishes clean and nervy, with lingering raspberry and violet notes. 90 2009 Cotes De Tablas Rouge Paso Robles ($30) (43% grenache, 24% syrah, 18% counoise and 15% mourvedre): Vivid ruby-red. Lively red fruits on the nose, with strong mineral and floral qualities contributing vivacity. Fresh and silky, with spice-accented bitter cherry and raspberry flavors lifted by tangy acidity. The sweet, precise feature shows repeating raspberry and cherry notes. 91 2009 Grenache Paso Robles ($30) Bright ruby. Fragrant, precise aromas of fresh raspberry, flowers and Asian spices, along with a hint of anise. Zesty and tightly wound on entry but aeration brings up sappy raspberry and cherry flavors brightened by zesty minerality. Finishes with very good cut and juicy persistence, repeating the spicy note. This seamless wine is delicious right now. 91 2009 En Gobelet Paso Robles ($45) (56% mourvedre, 23% tannat and 21% grenache): A highly perfumed, kaleidoscopic bouquet evokes candied red and dark berries, potpourri and incense, plus a hint of roasted coffee. Broad, pliant and deeply pitched but lively, with a velvety texture to the raspberry and mulberry flavors. The palate-staining finish shows outstanding clarity and lingering spiciness. 93 2009 Tannat Paso Robles ($45) Dark ruby. Inky, concentrated cherry and cassis aromas complicated by notes of licorice, black pepper and violet. Spicy and energetic on the palate but also dense and chewy, with bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors that really grip the palate. Finishes smoky, sweet and long, with strong but harmonious tannins adding structure. 91 2009 Esprit De Beaucastel Paso Robles ($55) (40% mourvedre, 28% syrah, 27% grenache and 5% counoise): Vivid ruby-red. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of candied raspberry, potpourri, Asian spices, sandalwood and licorice, with zesty minerality emerging with aeration. Suave, fresh and lithe, showing impressive definition and florality to its seamless red fruit flavors. The spicy, very long finish features gentle tannins and a flavor of red raspberry. A very polished blend. 93 2009 Esprit De Beaucastel Panoplie Paso Robles ($95) (65% mourvedre, 26% grenache and 9% syrah): Deep ruby with a bright rim. Floral- and spice-accented aromas of red and dark berries, incense and minerals expand with aeration, picking up a smoky quality. Impressively fresh and pure on the palate, with excellent depth to its sweet raspberry, cherry and floral pastille flavors. Finishes sappy and nervy, with lively notes of candied flowers and star anise. Has the balance to age, but this is also flat-out delicious right now. 95

Bonny Doon Vineyard 2010 Albarino Ca Del Solo Vineyard & Jesperson Ranch Central Coast ($18) Light yellow. An aromatic bouquet displays melon, quince, honeysuckle and jasmine. A fresh, silky midweight withs juicy pit fruit and honeydew flavors and a hint of bitter orange pith. The snmooth finish features good cut and grip, and a repeating orange note. 88 2009 Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($24) (58% grenache blanc and 42% roussanne): Green-tinged gold. Poached pear, melon and honey on the nose, with anise and bay leaf nuances adding complexity. Deep, chewy and broad, offering spice-accented orchard and pit fruit flavors sharpened by a bitter lemon pith nuance. Finishes smooth and sweet, with a touch of musky bee pollen. 90

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2009 Le Cigare Blanc Reserve En Bonbonne Arroyo Seco ($35) (60.5% grenache blanc and 39.5% roussanne): Light, green-tinged gold. Herb-accented aromas of lime pith, white peach and pear skin, with hints of quinine and honey. Yellow plum, tangerine and orchard fruit flavors gain power and depth with air but retain very good focus. Bright and dry on the finish, which strongly echoes the mineral notes and hangs with very good chewy tenacity. 91 2010 Contra Old Vine Field Blend California ($15) Bright purple. Musky dark berry and cherry aromas show a distinctly primary, slightly jammy character. Grapey dark fruit flavors display good energy and a refreshingly bitter character, with good back-end bite. Finishes tangy, fruity and persistent. 88 2010 Grenache Clos De Gilroy Central Coast ($18) Bright violet color. Black raspberry and cherry aromas are lifted by a note of peppery spice. A touch jammy, but the lively red and dark berry flavors display good clarity. A refreshingly bitter note of licorice comes up on the finish, which clings with very good tenacity. This wine is ridiculously easy to drink. 89 2008 Syrah Le Pousseur Central Coast ($20) Dark ruby. Cherry and dark chocolate on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice and cracked pepper. Firm, focused and on the dry side, with chewy dark fruit flavors and a touch of bitter herbs. Becomes more floral with air and finishes on a gently smoky note, with good grip and cut. I like this wine's balance and focus but would have enjoyed some more sweetness and flesh; aeration helps, and so might some bottle age. 88(+?) 2007 Le Cigare Volant California ($35) (60% grenache, 32% syrah and 4% each of mourvedre and cinsault): Bright ruby. Raspberry, bitter cherry, herbs and dried flowers on the nose and palate, along with subtle smokiness and a touch of candied licorice. Gain weight and spiciness with air and finishes very long, with clinging cherry and bitter chocolate flavors. This wine's structure bodes well for cellaring. 91 2007 Le Cigare Volant (En Foudre) California ($35) (60% grenache, 32% syrah, 4% mourvedre and 4% cinsault): Deep, bright ruby. Sexy, expressive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, incense and fresh flowers. Broad, supple and sweet, with very good depth and a seamless texture. Sappy black raspberry and anise flavors cling on the long, spice-accented finish. This bottling is more open-knit than the regular Cigare Volant and drinks very well right now. 92 2007 Le Cigare Volant (En Demi Muid) California ($35) (60% grenache, 32% syrah and 4% each of mourvedre and cinsault): Saturated ruby. Deep, spicy aromas of black and blue fruits, pipe tobacco and violet, with a suave mineral underpinning. Fleshy black raspberry and mulberry flavors are energized by building spice and cracked pepper qualities. Finishes with sweet dark berry compote and excellent clarity and persistence. Powerful but nicely balanced blend with the structure to age. 92 2007 Syrah Alamo Creek San Luis Obispo County ($35) Bright purple. Smoky, oak-spiced aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice, with a hint of pungent flowers. Broad and fleshy on entry, then firmer in the middle, with very good depth to its dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with solid tannic grip and very good spicy persistence. This wine benefits from decanting. 90 2007 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($40) Opaque violet color. Seductive aromas of dark berry preserves, olive, violet and smoky minerals. Sweet, expansive black raspberry and cassis flavors are complemented by floral pastille and fruitcake qualities, with velvety tannins adding shape. Shows both power and finesse, closing sweet and smoky. 91

Talley Vineyards The long, cool 2010 growing season helped to produce fruit that Brian Talley said perfectly suited his family estate's wine philosophy. He called it "a Talley vintage" in the sense that it was possible to make concentrated wines with depth of flavor but also balance and tension, the style he favors. As for 2009, a moderate growing season was followed by a hot, late summer and an early September heat spike that pushed ripening up quickly but not excessively. "The fruit was clean and there was a good amount of it, which is nice because we got set back a lot with 2010's short crop, like everybody." The Talley wines age remarkably well, by the way, as I've learned from

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drinking wines from my own cellar. I was also able to taste a fairly extensive vertical of chardonnays and pinots recently that went back to the 1980s and it further confirmed these wines' ability not only to endure, but to evolve and improve with age. 2010 Chardonnay Bishop's Peak Central Coast ($15) Pale yellow. Fresh pear and herbs on the nose, with a floral nuance gaining strength with air. Vibrant, focused orchard fruit flavors are given a firm edge by notes of talc and lemon pith and gain spiciness with air. The floral note carries through to the clean, nervy, persistent finish. This delivers serious bang for the buck. 89 2009 Chardonnay Edna Valley ($22) Green-tinged gold. Musky aromas of mango, pear skin and dried flowers, with a brighter topnote of lemon zest. Juicy and precise, but with good heft to its tropical fruit and bitter citrus flavors. Finishes bright and long, with excellent clarity and lingering spiciness. 90 2009 Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley ($26) Bright yellow. Aromas of quince, yellow plum and fresh fig. The palate offers an array of orchard and pit fruit flavors lifted by a zesty note of bitter lemon zest. A spicy quality gains strength with air and carries through the taut, linear finish. This energetic wine has the depth to work with rich foods and the cut to accompany lighter fare. 91 2009 Chardonnay Oliver's Vineyard Edna Valley ($32) Bright gold. Pungent, intensely perfumed aromas of honeydew, nectarine and orange pith, with suave floral and spice notes and a hint of white pepper. Lush and sappy on entry, then more nervy in the mid-palate, with excellent focus to its citrus and pit fruit nectar flavors. The floral quality comes back strongly on the finish, which hangs on with excellent tenacity. 92 2009 Chardonnay Rincon Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley ($42) Green-tinged gold. An explosively perfumed nose delivers an array of citrus and orchard fruits and flowers, along with notes of ginger and nutmeg. Juicy, penetrating and strikingly pure, with excellent focus to its Meyer lemon, pear and honeysuckle flavors. The floral note clings on the finish, which is sappy, chewy and very long. 93 2009 Chardonnay Rosemary's Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley ($46) Bright yellow-gold. Intensely perfumed nose displays an array of fresh and dried orchard fruits, orange and white flowers. A bracing mineral tone adds bite to the sappy orchard fruit and peach pit flavors. Gains a fleshy quality on the back, finishing with tangy orange zest and spice qualities. 93 2010 Pinot Noir Bishop's Peak San Luis Obispo County ($20) Vivid red. Fresh red berries and spices on the fragrant nose. Juicy and precise, with good depth to its strawberry and raspberry flavors. Shows very good intensity on the finish, which is tight, linear and nicely persistent. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Edna Valley ($32) Deep red. Pungent, spice-accented aromas of fresh red fruits, violet and blood orange. Juicy, precise and lively, offering taut redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of candied rose. Finishes with firm grip and very good persistence, leaving notes of candied flowers and spices behind. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley ($36) Deep, bright red. Suave, perfumed aromas of raspberry, cinnamon and fresh flowers. Sappy and intense on the palate, offering sweet red fruit and rose pastille flavors lifted by tangy acidity. Finishes bright and precise, with the floral note echoing with real authority. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Stone Corral Vineyard Edna Valley ($50) Saturated red. Deeper and darker in character than the foregoing wines, displaying scents and flavors of black raspberry, bitter cherry and violet. Then brighter on the back end, finishing with sweet red and dark berry qualities and intense spiciness. This should be really interesting with a few more years of bottle age. Knowing how well Talley's pinots age, I wouldn't hesitate to put this wine away for another ten years. 91(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Rincon Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley ($58) Full, bright red. Pungent red berries and blood orange on the intensely perfumed nose, with a suave floral quality adding vivacity. Sappy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become spicier with air, displaying excellent clarity and depth. Maintains focus and energy through an extremely long, juicy finish. This wine refuses to let go of the palate. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Rosemary's Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley ($70) Vibrant ruby-red. A heady bouquet evokes red berry and floral qualities, along with suave incense and herb nuances. Deep, focused and pure, with outstanding power to its raspberry, cherry and candied rose flavors. Becomes spicier and smokier with air and closes with superb focus and lingering florality. Impeccably balanced pinot with the

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depth and structure to reward long-term cellaring. 93(+?)

Brouhaha 2010 Alvarinho Paso Robles ($12) Pale yellow. Lime, quinine and white flowers on the nose. Dry and precise on the palate, with good depth to its tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes with very good clarity and cut, echoing the lime note strongly. This wine is absurdly easy to drink and shows very good balance. 89

Tatomer This set of rieslings marks the second collection of releases for Graham Tatomer, who also works with Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton at their winery. Tatomer, who grew up in Santa Barbara, worked for three years in Austria and the influence shows in these sharply delineated rieslings, which are among the best examples that I have tasted from the United States. So far they appear to possess more flesh than most rieslings from Australia's Clare Valley but there's a similarity in focus and intensity to them that reminds me of some of the top bottlings from Down Under. 2009 Riesling Sisquoc Santa Maria Valley ($20) Greenish gold. High-pitched citrus zest and mineral aromas are complicated by floral and spice nuances. Dry and taut, offering zesty lime and lemongrass flavors and a jolt of white pepper. This linear, nervy riesling finishes with impressive energy and cut. 90 2009 Riesling Vandenberg Santa Barbara County ($25) Bright yellow. Expressive aromas of peach, honeydew and pineapple. Becomes spicier and smokier with air, offering juicy tropical and pit fruit flavors and a kick of bracing acidity. Finishes smooth, sappy and persistent, with subtle lingering florality. This would be fantastic with pungent cheeses or spicy food. 90 2009 Riesling Kick On Ranch Santa Barbara County ($30) Bright, green-tinged gold. Ripe melon, pear and tangerine on the fragrant nose. Lush and broad, with an umami-like saline quality to its deep melon and orchard fruit flavors. Picks up exotic herbal and floral notes with air and finishes sappy and spicy, with excellent clarity and length. 91

Buttonwood Farm Winery 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Zingy Santa Ynez Valley ($18) Bright yellow-straw. Pungent nose displays green apple, lemon pith, anise and white pepper. Dense and sappy, with very good energy to its bitter citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes tight, spicy and energetic, with an echo of bitter citrus zest. No way I'd have guessed that this vibrant, precise wine was carrying 14.8% alcohol. 90 2010 Syrah Rose Santa Ynez Valley ($16) Lurid pink. Fresh strawberry and raspberry on the fragrant nose. Juicy and precise, with good lift to its sappy red fruit and spice flavors. Shows a refreshingly bitter quality on the dry, spice-accented finish. This wine packs a punch but is also surprisingly light on its feet. It checks in at a refreshingly low 12% alcohol. 89 2008 Cabernet Franc Santa Ynez Estate ($22) Bright ruby-red. Cherry and musky herbs on the nose, with notes of woodsmoke and tobacco adding complexity. Juicy and precise, with good clarity and focus to its bitter cherry and licorice flavors. The tobacco element carries through on the long, smoke-accented finish. 90 2007 Trevin Santa Ynez Valley ($36) (43% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot and 24% cabernet franc): Deep ruby. Cherry and blackcurrant on the pungent, slightly wild nose. Broad and fleshy on entry, then firmer in the mid-palate, with good depth to its bitter cherry and dark chocolate flavors. Picks up a smoky note with air and finishes with very good thrust and lingering spiciness. 89

Tensley Wines Joey Tensley looks like a big kid but he has been making wine under his own label since 1998. He told me that he's a big fan of clone 99 syrah "because it gives the spicy character and blend of power and finesse that makes syrah so interesting." It also does well in the cool, high-altitude vineyards that Tensley prefers; in fact, the Terra Alta bottling is made entirely from clone 99. Pricing here is very fair and Tensley pointed out that his prices haven't changed in five years. After we tasted through his 2009s, Tensley showed me his 2010 Turner and Colson Canyon syrahs,

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which had just been bottled. I'll formally review them next year but based on how they showed in September (the Turner vibrant and complex and the Colson Canyon massive and loaded with blue fruit) I'd have no hesitation jumping on them when they are released. We also tried a bottle of his 2002 Thompson syrah, which was sweet, smoky, silky and complex; while fully mature, it isn't in any danger of flying off the cliff any time soon and shows only the vaguest hint of drying out. 2010 Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($28) (65% grenache blanc and 35% roussanne): Green-tinged yellow. Bright, perfumed aromas of lime zest, lemongrass, honey and white flowers, with a spicy overtone. Nervy and precise, with very good clarity and depth to its citrus and floral flavors. The lime note carries through to the brisk finish. 90 2009 Syrah Terra Alta Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($38) (fermented with 30% whole clusters): Deep ruby. Ripe blackberry and blueberry aromas are complicated by notes of cracked pepper, licorice and clove. Sappy and broad on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering spicy dark fruit flavors and a firm spine of tangy acidity. Finishes sharply delineated and long. 90 2009 Syrah Thompson Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($38) Glass-staining ruby. Blackberry and boysenberry on the highly perfumed nose. Lush and broad on entry, with impressive depth to its black and blue fruit flavors, then livelier in the middle thanks to juicy acidity and a touch of cracked pepper. Finishes sweet, spicy and very long, with lingering black cardamom and violet pastille qualities. The fruit intensity here is impressive. 91 2009 Syrah Turner Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($38) Opaque purple. Rich, powerful aromas of candied blackberry, boysenberry, olive and incense. Dense and velvety, with palate-coating flavors of dark berry preserves accented by smoky Indian spices. Supple tannins melt into the sappy fruit, which clings on the very long, smoky finish. 92 2009 Syrah Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($38) Vivid purple. Spicy cherry and dark berries on the nose, with complicating notes of spicecake, olive and violet. The sappy, expansive palate shows juicy cherry, blackberry and candied violet flavors and slow-mounting spiciness. Finishes juicy, potent and long, with the floral note echoing. 92

Byron Vineyards and Winery 2009 Pinot Noir Monument Hill Santa Maria Valley ($60) Bright ruby. Intense violet and licoricetinged black raspberry and cherry aromas expand with air, picking up a sexy note of oak spices. Palatecoating cherry-cola and dark berry flavors show very good intensity and power but come off as quite elegant. Finishes long, spicy and fresh, with a lingering note of candied licorice. 90

Torrin Vineyard Scott Hawley's 2009 releases continue the theme of dense, full-throttle wines, which he told me "is what the grapes here give." But I also sensed a more refined character in the new wines this fall. And that's from a low-yielding vintage, most of whose wines show more concentration than normal. As his own vines mature, said Hawley, "they're giving more complexity, so we're seeing more than just brute force in the wines." He described the '09 vintage at his vineyard as "plenty ripe, even by Paso standards, but cool nights kept things from getting out of control." He told me that he has never had to add acid to his wines and that while his '09s "show a lot of the sexiness of 2008, they have more structure and really good freshness, which will enable them to age well." 2009 The Maven Paso Robles ($60) (75% grenache and 25% syrah; 16.2% alcohol): Inky ruby. Black raspberry and boysenberry on the assertively perfumed, spice-accented nose. Juicy and expansive on the palate, displaying sappy red and dark berry flavors and notes of candied violet and Indian spices. Emphatically rich but vibrant for its size, finishing with excellent thrust and length. 92 2009 The Banshee Paso Robles ($60) (60% syrah, 22% mourvedre and 18% grenache, all from Hawley's estate vineyard): Opaque purple. Impressively complex bouquet of blackcurrant, candied

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blackberry, fresh violet, cocoa powder and star anise. Dense and sweet but also bright and energetic, with potent dark berry, cherry-cola and licorice flavors that deepen with air. Fine-grained tannins add shape to the very long, wonderfully supple finish. For such a rich wine this is really lively. 92 2009 Syrah Akasha Paso Robles ($60) (95% syrah and 5% grenache; this is the first vintage for this bottling that isn't 100% syrah): Glass-staining purple. Powerful aromas of black raspberry and cassis, with complicating notes of smoked meat, candied lavender and minerals. Deeply pitched, velvety and assertively flavored, with a deep dark berry preserve character enlivened by a strong kick of cracked pepper on the back. Turns spicier on the finish, leaving behind floral pastille, spicecake and licorice notes. This potent wine has the energy of pinot noir. 93

Calcareous Vineyard 2009 Viognier / Marsanne Melange Du Rhone Paso Robles ($28) (a 56/44 blend): Bright gold. Fresh, perfumed nose displays scents of pineapple, peach and orange, along with a hint of vanilla. Smooth and seamless in texture, with good depth to its tropical and pit fruit flavors. A spicy note adds bite to the nicely persistent, fruity finish. 89 2008 Twisted Sisters Main Squeeze Paso Robles ($20) (46% syrah, 32% cabernet sauvignon and 22% zinfandel): Deep ruby. Pungent aromas of cherry and dark berries, with smoke and anise notes adding complexity. Juicy and sweet, showing good depth to its cherry-vanilla and blackberry flavors. Finishes with lingering cherry and spice qualities and good length. Lots of appealing up-front fruit here. 88 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Twisted Sisters Paso Robles ($20) Bright purple. Blackberry, licorice and violet on the nose. Shows a slightly tart aspect to its powerful black fruit flavors. Finishes with good length, tangy bite and a touch of cracked pepper. Give this some air. 87

Also recommended: 2008 Tres Violet Paso Robles (85), 2008 Moose Paso Robles (86).

Zotovich Family Vineyards Ryan Zotovich began making wine full-time from his family's vineyard, which is located close to Melville, just last June, following stints at Sea Smoke and Palmina and, prior to that, Cal-Poly, where he took a degree in wine and viticulture. The Zotovichs sell fruit to some of the Central Coast's top wineries, including Tyler, Brewer-Clifton, Paul Lato and Palmina, and Ryan keeps some for the small family winery. Steve Clifton consulted here until Ryan left Sea Smoke and the wines show more of a Palmina than a Sea Smoke touch in the sense that they are more graceful than dramatic. Zotovich is especially keen to explore the possibilities of viognier, and he makes an excellent version, but for now production is limited. He's wary of too much new oak and admitted that he is "still working on figuring out what sort of oak treatment is right for each of the varieties, and that includes figuring out exactly which coopers are best for us." As a result, there are a number of barrel producers represented in his cellar now. I had the chance to taste numerous 2010 samples from single sites, out of casks from more than a half dozen different barrel-makers. It's always an eye-opening exercise and one that Zotovich admitted was among the most exciting and thought-provoking aspects of setting up his own winery and finding his own winemaking voice. 2010 Viognier Estate Sta. Rita Hills ($28) Bright, green-tinged yellow. Intensely perfumed bouquet of lime zest, peach, white flowers and anise. Bright and sharply focused, with tightly wound citrus and pit fruit flavors complicated by dusty mineral and spice notes. Finishes with a bite of lime zest and very good tangy persistence. This is a pretty graceful take on the variety, especially for a New World example. 91 2009 Chardonnay Estate Sta. Rita Hills ($36) Vivid gold. Zesty lemon, pear and quince aromas are underscored by vibrant minerality. Dry, focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors offer impressive cut and thrust, with dusty mineral and floral qualities gaining strength with air. Elegant, grown-up chardonnay with very good finishing clarity and cut. 91

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2009 Pinot Noir Estate Sta. Rita Hills ($34) Light, bright red. Musky redcurrant and dried cherry on the nose and palate. Taut, sharply focused red berry flavors show a refreshingly bitter quality and gain smokiness with air. Picks up weight and sweetness on the finish, displaying notes of peppery spice and candied rose. I like this wine's cut and clarity but would let it rest for a couple more years. 91(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Reserve Sta. Rita Hills ($46) Vivid red. Seductive aromas of raspberry, cherryvanilla and Asian spices, with smoke and anise nuances adding complexity. Juicy and precise, with impressive lift to its taut red berry and bitter cherry flavors. Closes on a tangy note of blood orange, with lingering spiciness and very good persistence. This is still a baby. 91(+?) 2009 Syrah Estate Sta. Rita Hills ($42) Opaque ruby. A heady, spice-accented nose shows intense dark berry preserve, violet, cracked pepper and exotic Indian spices. Smooth and sappy in the mouth, with palate-staining flavors of sweet blackberry and floral pastille. Rich and ripe but energetic, with excellent finishing clarity and floral-driven persistence. This well-balanced syrah should age smoothly but it's approachable now with a bit of air. 92

Calera Wine Company 2010 Chardonnay Central Coast ($18) Light yellow-gold. Fresh peach and apricot aromas, with a melon note coming up with air. Broad and plush, with good density and power to the pit fruit and honeydew fruit flavors. Finishes a bit warm, with lingering melon and spice notes. 88 2010 Chardonnay Mt. Harlan ($30) Vivid yellow-gold. Musky aromas of pear skin, fresh pineapple and lees are lifted by a spicy nuance. Dry, juicy and expansive, with intense flavors of citrus and orchard fruits, anise and iodine. Shows a suave blend of richness and vivacity and finishes smoky, spicy and long. There's something vaguely Meursault-like going on here. 90 2010 Viognier Central Coast ($16) Vivid gold. Classic viognier aromas of ripe peach, poached pear, apple and violet. Energetic and focused, with broad but precise orchard fruit flavors and tangy minerality on the back. Taut and lively on the persistent finish, which shows a refreshingly bitter lemon rind quality. 90 2010 Viognier Mt. Harlan ($30) Light, bright gold. Lively, spice-accented aromas of pear, quince and white flowers, with subtle vanilla and white pepper notes in the background. Sappy and broad but light on its feet, projecting dense, incisive orchard fruit flavors and an exotic hint of papaya. The peppery quality comes back on the nervy, tightly focused, impressively persistent finish. I like the blend of richness and energy here. 91 2008 Pinot Noir De Villiers Mount Harlan San Benito ($35) Vivid red. Pungent aromas of candied red berries, incense and botanical herbs, with a suave floral note gaining strength with air. Juicy and precise, with seamless texture and very good depth to its spicy red and dark berry flavors. Finishes sappy and long, with echoing notes of red berries and flowers. 91 2008 Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard Mt. Harlan ($40) Vivid red. Strawberry and raspberry on the nose and in the mouth. Smooth, seamless and open-knit, with good intensity and a hint of candied rose. The gently spicy finish shows very good cling and echoes of spicecake and red fruit. Approachable now but I suspect that this well-balanced midweight will age nicely. 90 2008 Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard Mt. Harlan ($45) Vivid red. Deep strawberry and raspberry aromas are complicated by of rose, cinnamon and musky herbs. Sappy and precise on the palate, with very good depth and vivacity to its sweet red fruit and floral pastille flavors. Silky tannins add shape to the long, spice-accented finish. Quite elegant, especially with an hour or so of aeration. 92 2008 Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard Mt. Harlan ($50) Bright ruby-red. Cherry, anise and cola on the fragrant nose. Becomes spicier with air, picking up notes of allspice and cracked pepper that lift the juicy cherry and currant flavors. Dusty tannins add grip and focus to the long, spicy, subtly sweet finish. This wine is balanced to age. 92 2008 Pinot Noir Jensen Mt. Harlan ($70) Bright red. Very expressive aromas of raspberry, Asian spices,

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cola and potpourri, with a touch of licorice adding depth to the nose. Penetrating and precise, with energetic red berry and bitter cherry flavors staining the palate. Silky tannins add grip and structure to the very long, spicy, sharply focused finish. Offers a suave marriage of power and vivacity and drinks surprisingly well right now. 93 2010 Viognier Doux Central Coast ($24) Light gold, with a hint of peach skin. Suave aromas of peach and apricot nectar, with notes of candied ginger and jasmine adding complexity. Lush, sappy and broad, with a slightly viscous texture and very good depth to its pit fruit and melon flavors. Finishes sweet, sappy and smooth, with a touch of bitter citrus marmalade adding bite. 91

Caliza Winery 2008 Azimuth Red Wine Paso Robles ($45) (39% syrah, 34% mourvedre and 27% grenache): Inky ruby. Cassis, licorice, olive and herbs on the nose. Juicy and soft, with ripe, sweet dark berry and bitter cherry flavors complicated by a smoky note. Finishes with fine but firm tannins and lingering smoke and olive notes. Pretty serious wine but there's good freshness here as well. 89 2008 Syrah Paso Robles ($45) Opaque purple. Flamboyant aromas of cherry and cassis, with complicating oak and floral nuances. Deep and chewy in texture, showing alluring black raspberry and spice flavors and a slow-building smokiness. The long, floral-accented finish features supple tannins and resonating spiciness. 90 2008 Companion Red Wine Paso Robles ($45) (50% cabernet sauvignon, 38% syrah and 12% tempranillo): Bright violet color. Dark berries and woodsmoke on the nose. Lush and broad, with good depth to its cherry-vanilla and cassis flavors. This very rich blend finishes with good cling and a persistent note of smoky herbs. Give it plenty of air if you plan to serve it soon. 88(+?)

Cambria Winery 2009 Chardonnay Bench Break Santa Maria Valley ($28) Bright gold. Ripe pear and pineapple aromas are complicated by notes of beeswax and toasted grain. Smooth and fleshy, with broad tropical fruit flavors and a touch of bitter citrus pith. Finishes on a slightly warm note, with lingering spiciness and a touch of anise. 87 2009 Pinot Noir Bench Break Santa Maria Valley ($30) Ruby-red. Blackberry, licorice and cocoa powder on the nose, along with a smoky nuance. Sweet but tightly coiled, with peppery red and dark berry flavors gaining sweetness with air. Closes with refreshingly tangy berry skin and lingering smokiness. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Barbara's Santa Maria Valley ($48) Vivid red. Aromas of black raspberry and cherry, plus a hint of woodsmoke. Smooth but slightly loose-knit cherry and bitter chocolate flavors are lifted by a peppery element on the back half. Finishes with good grip and a lingering note of cherry pit. In a structured, somewhat brooding style; this would work well with hearty red meat dishes. 88 2009 Pinot Noir Clone 667 Santa Maria Valley ($48) Bright ruby-red. Cherry-cola, raspberry and licorice on the fragrant nose. Spicy, gripping red and dark berry flavors show very good energy and an exotic note of black cardamom. Picks up spiciness and a floral nuance with air and finishes with lingering sweetness. This youthful wine will benefit from an hour of aeration. 89(+?) 2008 Pinot Noir Clone 2a Santa Maria Valley ($48) Deep, bright red. Redcurrant, cherry-vanilla and spices on the fragrant nose. Lively and precise, with very good energy to its sweet red fruit and spicecake flavors. Vanilla and smoky oak spices linger on the long, focused, seamless finish. 90 2008 Syrah Tepusquet Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($19) Dark ruby. Dark berries, olive and black pepper on the nose and palate. Firm and tangy, with good clarity and a late note of candied licorice that carries through the finish. Easygoing and ready to drink. 87

Cameron Hughes

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2009 Chardonnay Lot 273 Arroyo Seco ($13) Bright yellow-gold. Oak-spiced aromas of guava and pineapple, with a smoky overlay. Plump and juicy on the palate, offering gently sweet tropical fruit flavors and a touch of back-end spiciness. Lots of deep fruit here. Finishes on a toasty, oaky note, with lingering vanilla and exotic fruit qualities. 88 2009 Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre Lot 251 Arroyo Seco ($12) Bright ruby-red. Raspberry and cherry preserves on the nose, with subtle spice and floral nuances adding interest. Fleshy red and dark berry flavors are seamless in texture and youthfully primal. Gentle acidity adds lift and cut to the sappy finish. There's a pinot-like elegance here. 88 2009 Syrah Lot 205 Santa Ynez Valley ($13) Deep ruby. Classic syrah aromas of dark berries, cracked pepper and violet, with a smoky overtone. Juicy and expansive on the palate, with good depth to its blackberry and cassis flavors. A note of bitter chocolate comes up with air and carries through the long, chewy finish. Pretty serious stuff, with the power to go with the richest red meat dishes. 89

Cass Winery 2010 Roussanne Paso Robles ($26) Light, bright gold. Peach and melon on the nose, with hints of lemon zest and white flowers; smells a lot like viognier. Fleshy, appealingly juicy pit fruit flavors gain sweetness with air, picking up notes of poached pear and floral honey. A fruity, seductive rendition of this variety that finishes with very good energy and cut. This would be great with southeast Asian dishes. 90 2010 Rockin' One Blanc Paso Robles ($36) (52% viognier, 28% marsanne, 20% roussanne): Bright gold. Sharply focused, lees-accented tangerine, peach and floral aromas are complicated by dusty minerals and herbs. Vibrant citrus and pit fruit flavors show impressive depth and breadth, picking up melon and spice nuances on the zesty, persistent finish. This wine will be extremely flexible at the table. 91 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($45) Bright purple. Highly scented nose combines candied plum, cassis, dark chocolate and tobacco. Sweet, musky and firm, with dark fruit flavors given focus by tangy acidity. Gains depth and breadth with air and finishes with good length and lingering smokiness. 88 2008 Red Reserve Paso Robles ($95) (70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 10% merlot, 3% malbec and 2% petit verdot): Inky ruby. Brooding, pungent aromas of cherry pit, cassis and licorice, with smoke and espresso accents. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors show surprising vivacity and pick up spiciness with air. Chewy tannins build on the very long, smoky, licorice-accented finish. This is still a baby. 90(+?)

Also recommended: 2009 Grenache Paso Robles (86), 2009 Mourvedre Paso Robles (85). Other wines tasted: 2008 Syrah Paso Robles.

The Central 2008 Chardonnay Late Harvest Santa Maria Valley ($40) Dark gold. Wild, pungent scents of orange marmalade, apricot, brown sugar and honey, along with a smoky overtone. Deeply pitched pit fruit and candied citrus flavors are very sweet but surprisingly energetic. Shows a refreshingly bitter quality on the finish, with the brown sugar and orange notes echoing. Offers impressive vivacity for such a sweet wine. 91

Chanin Wine Company 2009 Chardonnay Los Alamos Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($30) Bright gold. Oak-spiced aromas of pear, peach and anise, with slow-building florality. Rich and broad in the mouth, with good depth to its ripe orchard fruit flavors. A bitter citrus pith nuance adds grip and a refreshingly dry edge to the spicy, focused finish. 89 2009 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($30) Bright, green-tinged gold. Fragrant scents of lemon and lime zest, apple, vanilla and salty minerals. Tangy and focused on the palate, with fresh citrus and orchard fruit flavors underscored by bright minerality. Finishes on a spicy note, with very

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good lift and cut and a note of dusty minerals. I like this wine's nerviness and focus. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($45) Bright red. Highly aromatic bouquet of ripe cherry, blackberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Nicely delineated in the mouth, with dark berry and spicecake flavors complicated by a floral nuance. Finishes long and sweet, with a rich, spicy berry note clinging tenaciously. 91

Christian Lazo Wines 2008 Barbera Paso Robles ($25) Bright ruby. Bright red berry and cherry pit aromas are complemented by fresh flowers and white pepper. Tangy and tightly wound, with taut cherry and currant flavors joined by a sweetening note of candied rose on the back. The zesty finish features firm tannins and an echo of bitter cherry. 88

Also recommended: 2009 Zinfandel Paso Robles (85).

Chronic Cellars 2010 Stone Fox White Paso Robles ($20) (50% viognier, 19% marsanne, 16% grenache blanc and 15% roussanne): Bright gold. Rich, honeyed aromas of peach, yellow apple and pungent flowers. Concentrated, powerful flavors of pit and orchard fruits are enlivened by a note of lemon pith, which adds back-end bite. Offers an interesting interplay of fruits and spices, and has the heft to handle richer foods. 89 2009 Sofa King Bueno Red Wine Paso Robles ($20) (25% syrah, 20% petite sirah, 18% mourvedre, 16% zinfandel, 15% grenache, 5% tempranillo and 1% tannat): Deep ruby. Aromas of cherry, cassis and licorice, with a smoky topnote. Chewy and broad, showing good depth but a slight hard edge. Finishes with solid grip and good length, leaving licorice and spice notes behind. 87 2009 El Perfecto Paso Robles ($30) (85% cabernet sauvignon and 15% zinfandel): Deep ruby. Aromatic nose combines cherry, blueberry, dark chocolate and smoky oak. Dense and thick, with penetrating flavors of black and blue fruits and peppery spices. Shows very good verve and finishes long, with smooth, fine-grained tannins. 90 2009 Petite Sirah Mr. Nibbles Paso Robles ($35) (75% petite sirah, 15% syrah and 10% zinfandel): Inky purple. Aromas of cherry-cola, licorice and cracked pepper, with a hint of violet in the background. Offers bitter cherry and herb flavors that show serious density and structure. Loosens up with air and closes on a spicy note, with lingering cherry and licorice qualities. Decant this one if you plan on drinking it any time soon. 89

Also recommended: 2009 Dead Nuts Paso Robles (86), 2009 Ricardo Grande Paso Robles (86).

Clayhouse 2010 Adobe White Paso Robles ($15) (46% viognier, 27% sauvignon blanc, 16% grenache blanc, 9% princess and 2% chenin blanc): Light yellow. Peach and apricot aromas are deepened by honey and sweet butter. Warm, fleshy pit fruit and pear flavors are slightly loose-knit but show good depth and sweetness. Finishes smooth, with decent length and a touch of heat. 87 2010 Grenache Blanc Red Cedar Vineyard Paso Robles ($23) Bright straw. Spicy citrus and pear aromas are brightened by zesty white pepper and mineral qualities. Nuanced and fresh, with good depth to its Meyer lemon and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes with deeper honeydew and sweet butter qualities and good length. 89 2010 Estate Cuvee Blanc Red Cedar Vineyard Paso Robles ($23) (a 50/50 blend of grenache blanc and viognier): Light yellow. Intensely perfumed bouquet of peach nectar, pear and spices; really showing its viognier today. Smooth and fleshy if a bit loose-knit, showing good depth to its pit and citrus fruit

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flavors. Finishes broad and smooth, with echoing peach and spice qualities. 88 2009 Malbec Paso Robles ($35) Opaque ruby. Cherry liqueur, dark berries, black pepper and smoke on the nose. Chewy, concentrated and quite dry, with a peppery aspect to its flavors of dried dark fruits. This firmly built wine finishes with fairly strong tannins. Needs some more age, or at least some air. 88(+?) 2009 Tannat Red Cedar Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) Inky purple. Cherry and dark berry preserves on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice and espresso. Lively black and blue fruit flavors stain the palate, with an exotic floral quality gaining power with air. This deep, supple, seamless wine finishes with very good thrust and sweet persistence. 90 2009 Petite Sirah Old Vines Red Cedar Vineyard Paso Robles ($25) Glass-staining purple. Ripe dark berry and cherry aromas are complemented by black tea, licorice and woodsmoke. Fleshy, sweet and broad, offering dense blackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of smoky herbs. Finishes with serious grip, leaving smoke, spice and licorice notes behind. 89(+?)

Also recommended: 2009 Tempranillo Estate Paso Robles (85). Other wines tasted: 2007 Show Pony Paso Robles.

Cold Heaven Morgan Clendenen 2009 Viognier Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Santa Rita Hills ($37) Bright yellow. Intensely aromatic bouquet evokes fresh pit fruits, tangerine and white flowers, with a spicy overtone. Deeply pitched nectarine and citrus zest flavors display a suave blend of richness and energy, turning more tangy with air. Finishes with excellent intensity, focus and spicy length. This wine has the power to stand up to rich foods.

92 2010 Viognier Santa Rita Hills ($23) Green-tinged gold. Aromas of green apple, lemon and violet show excellent clarity and lift. Nervy and precise in the mouth, offering pure, spice-accented citrus and orchard fruit flavors and an exotic floral quality. Finishes with strong racy cut and lingering notes of citrus zest and spices. 91 2010 Viognier Le Bon Climat Santa Barbara County ($34) Pale gold. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of nectarine, orange pith, candied ginger, bee pollen and flowers. Sappy citrus and dried pit fruit flavors stain the palate, with slow-mounting spiciness adding back-end cut. Lively but powerful viognier, with excellent clarity and floral-driven persistence. 93 2009 Viognier Domaine Des Deux Mondes Saints & Sinners Santa Maria Valley ($40) Pale yellow. Fresh, mineral-accented pear, white peach and floral aromas, with notes of licorice and honey. Restrained and sharply focused on the palate, showing a spicy orchard fruit quality and a nervy kick of citrus zest. A strikingly brisk, energetic style of viognier, with strong closing thrust and lingering spiciness. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Makepeace Santa Barbara County ($35) (a 50/50 blend of fruit from Santa Maria Valley and the Sta. Rita Hills): Light, bright red. Spicy red berry aromas are complemented by white pepper, vanilla and rose. Graceful raspberry, cherry and candied flowers on the palate, with silky tannins adding grip. Elegant and precise pinot with excellent finishing clarity and floral-driven length. 91

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2009 Pinot Noir Never Tell Santa Rita Hills ($38) Bright ruby-red. Deeper in pitch and more intense than the Makepeace, offering black raspberry and cherry aromas and notes of Indian spices and dried rose. Sappy and expansive, with very good clarity and thrust to its sweet red and dark berry flavors. Finishes on a gently smoky note, with lingering spice and bitter cherry notes. I really like this wine's blend of depth and vibrancy. 91

Croad Vineyards 2008 Zinfandel Pure Paso Robles ($48) Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry and blueberry, with suave vanilla, rose and Indian spice accents. Supple and full-bodied, with fresh dark berry flavors, no obvious tannins and slow-building florality. The long, spicy finish offers impressive clarity and lingering sweetness. 91 2008 Grenache Pure Paso Robles ($45) Ruby-red. Lively raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by fresh rose and Asian spices; smells a lot like a ripe pinot noir. Energetic strawberry and black raspberry flavors pack a serious flavor punch but also show impressive clarity. Finishes long and spicy, with lingering red fruit notes. 91 2008 Gms Karakia Pure Paso Robles ($42) (65% grenache, 20% syrah and 15% mourvedre): Dark ruby. Ripe dark berry cherry aromas are complemented by pungent floral and tobacco nuances. Luscious flavors of dark cherry, plum and candied rose are framed by silky, harmonious tannins. Finishes sweet and long, with suave spice and floral notes. 90 2008 Gms Towhenua Pure Paso Robles ($32) (50% mourvedre, 30% grenache and 20% syrah): Glass-staining ruby. Ripe blackcurrant and plum on the nose, with complicating notes of licorice and mocha. Densely packed dark fruit flavors show impressive depth but are slow to unfold. Ultimately foursquare and chewy, with a slightly dull quality to the persistent, clinging finish. 87 2008 Aroha Paso Robles ($32) (60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% syrah): Inky ruby. Aromas of cherry pit and herbs, with a deeper note of licorice in the background. Racy and precise if a bit tart, with good clarity to its red fruit flavors. Finishes with good focus and bite, repeating the cherry note. 87

Curtis Winery 2010 Heritage Blanc Santa Barbara County ($20) (60% viognier and 40% roussanne): Light yellowgold. Pear and honey on the nose, with notes of mace and white flowers adding complexity. A juicy, gently sweet midweight, offering sappy orchard and pit fruit flavors that tail off a bit on the back. Straightforward and very easy to drink; this will work well with spicy dishes. 87 2010 Viognier Santa Barbara County ($25) Light, green-tinged gold. Fresh peach and tangerine aromas are complemented by white flowers and mace. A smooth, spicy midweight offering slightly looseknit pit fruit and citrus flavors. Finishes on a bitter citrus pith note, with good bite. 88 2010 Heritage Rose Santa Barbara County ($18) (38% grenache, 30% mourvedre, 20% cinsault and 12% syrah): Bright pink. Lively aromas of red berries and flowers, with a hint of cinnamon adding lift. Sharply focused strawberry and bitter cherry flavors show very good energy and pick up a bitter cherry note with air. Clean and brisk but has impressive heft too. Finishes with solid grip and a repeating cherry note. 88 2009 Heritage Cuvee Red Wine Santa Barbara County ($22) (39% grenache, 26% mourvedre, 19% cinsault and 16% syrah): Bright ruby. Lively red berry aromas offer clean, straightforward appeal. Plump and juicy, showing sweet strawberry and raspberry flavors, no tannins and good tangy lift. A bit jammy but delivers impressive flavor punch and finishes with good spicy cut and length. 88 2008 Grenache Santa Barbara County ($25) Bright medium red. Scents of cherry and raspberry, along with a subtle smoky quality and a hint of cracked pepper. This juicy, supple midweight offers sweet red fruit flavors that come off a bit loose-knit. The raspberry quality carries through on the smooth, persistent finish. This is very easy to drink. 88

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D'Anbino Vineyards & Cellars 2007 Syrah Paso Robles ($24) Dark ruby. Aromas of cherry-vanilla, coffee and chocolate; ripe and a bit roasted. Dense but quite closed today, with bright acidity giving vivacity to the dark fruit flavors. Distinctly powerful syrah, finishing with chewy, slightly tough tannins. 87(+?) 2007 Orchestration Red Paso Robles ($28) (65% syrah, 25% cabernet sauvignon and 10% petite sirah): Deep ruby. Redcurrant, cherry and tobacco on the nose, lifted by a subtle floral quality. Juicy red fruits on entry, then deeper cherry and mulberry in the mid-palate. Seamless and open-knit syrah, finishing with good intensity and lingering sweetness. 89

Daou Vineyards 2010 Grenache Blanc Paso Robles ($42) Light, bright gold. Sexy aromas of pear, melon and honeysuckle, plus a hint of toasty lees. Fleshy pit and orchard fruit flavors stain the palate, with tangy minerals providing lift. Clings nicely on the finish, which leaves smoke and peach notes behind. 89 2010 Chemin De Fleurs White Paso Robles ($32) (48% grenache blanc, 26% roussanne and 26% viognier): Bright gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon and lime zest, dusty minerals, herbs and white flowers, with a deeper note of pear skin. Brisk, sharply focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors are complemented by zesty white pepper. Fine-grained and linear wine with very good back-end cut and lift. 90 2010 Chardonnay Paso Robles ($42) Bright gold. Musky, leesy aromas of fresh lemon curd and pear, complicated by tarragon and iodine. Very creamy on the palate, with lush citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a juicier touch of melon. Full, concentrated and surprisingly lithe, finishing with very good power and mineral-driven length. 90 2009 Micho Paso Robles ($42) (56% merlot and 44% cabernet sauvignon): Dark ruby. Oak-spiced dark berry and plum aromas, with complicating sandalwood and smoked meat qualities. Lush and creamy, with deep blackberry and cherry-cola flavors joined by vanilla, mocha and candied licorice nuances. Gentle tannins add shape to the long, sweet finish. This is surprisingly approachable for such a young wine. 89 2009 Celestus Red Wine Paso Robles ($46) (61% syrah, 28% cabernet sauvignon and 11% petit verdot): Dark purple. Ripe cherry, blackberry, licorice and tobacco on the nose, with a floral topnote. Sweet, broad and ripe but nicely focused. Finishes with a hint of sweet tobacco, slow-building tannins and very good length. I suspect that this wine will age slowly. 90(+?) 2009 Zinfandel Paso Robles ($42) Glass-staining purple. Powerfully scented aromas of cassis and cherry, with complicating floral and spice nuances and a hint of licorice. Deeply pitched and tightly coiled, with palate-staining dark berry and bitter cherry flavors given spine by tangy acidity. The spicy note repeats on the long, linear, gently sweet finish. This deserves a couple years of patience. 90(+?) 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Paso Robles ($56) (75% cabernet sauvignon, 12% cabernet franc, 10% merlot and 3% petit verdot): Inky ruby. Intense aromas and flavors of bitter cherry, cassis, cured tobacco and candied flowers. Taut and spicy, with excellent clarity and structure but no rough edges. A youthful, focused wine that finishes with impressive thrust and resonating spiciness. Definitely give this wine some cellar time. 91(+?)

Deep Sea 2009 Viognier Santa Barbara County ($30) Light, bright yellow. Pungent aromas of pear, melon and dried peach, with a note of lemon zest adding vivacity. Tangy citrus flavors give way to deeper orchard fruits in the middle, with a spicy quality coming up on the back end. Finishes slightly dry, with good clarity and decent persistence. 87

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Denner Vineyards 2010 Theresa White Wine Paso Robles ($32) (40% roussanne, 30% grenache blanc, 20% marsanne and 10% viognier): Bright yellow. Intense, spice-accented citrus and floral aromas are complicated by notes of honey and white pepper. Lively acidity adds lift to the fresh orange and pear flavors, with a late note of anise adding nuance. Finishes juicy and very long, with resonating notes of white flowers and dusty minerals. 91 2010 Viognier Paso Robles ($34) Pale yellow. Candied ginger, pear and lemon curd on the highly aromatic nose. Broad and juicy, with fresh pineapple and zesty citrus flavors showing impressive clarity. Sweet, focused and spicy, with potent finishing sappiness and excellent length. Very lively for a viognier from this neck of the woods. 91 2010 Rose Paso Robles ($20) (made from a blend of grenache, mourvedre, counoise and carignan): Bright pink. Fresh red fruits and flowers on the nose. Juicy and precise, with good lift to its light-bodied redcurrant and cherry flavors. Finishes clean, focused and persistent. 88 2009 The Ditch Digger Paso Robles ($55) (40% grenache, 30% syrah, 20% mourvedre and 5% each of cinsault and counoise): Bright violet color. Aromas of blueberry, rose and licorice, plus a suggestion of mocha. Suave and sweet on the palate, with powerful flavors of black and blue fruits and bitter chocolate. Shows very good clarity on the finish, which features youthfully chewy tannins and lingering sweetness. This needs some bottle age. 90(+?) 2009 Syrah Paso Robles ($44) (raised in 75% new oak): Opaque purple. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet displays scents of boysenberry, cherry compote, violet and allspice. Juicy and precise, with very good depth and energy to its sweet dark fruit and floral pastille flavors. Seamless in texture and very bright on the back half. Finishes sweet and long, with lingering spiciness and a touch of licorice. 91 2009 The Dirt Worshipper Red Wine Paso Robles ($55) (95% syrah and 5% viognier, aged in twothirds new oak): Bright purple. Slow to open on the nose, eventually offering up scents of dark fruit preserves, olive, floral oils and vanilla. Broad, deeply pitched cassis and blueberry flavors stain the palate, with gentle acidity providing lift. Very rich but also lively, with impressive finishing thrust and a lingering note of candied violet. No way I'd open this one for at least another five years. 91(+?)

Deovlet Wines 2009 Chardonnay Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($35) Light, bright gold. Very fragrant scents of poached pear, nectarine and tangerine, with pungent floral and oak spice accents. Lush and creamy in texture, with gently sweet pit and citrus fruit flavors and slow-building spiciness. Becomes richer with air and finishes with very good clarity and lingering vanilla and spice notes. 90 2009 Chardonnay Jack's Barrel Solomon Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($45) Greenish gold. Tangerine, pear and honey on the aromatic nose, with a livelier lemon zest quality adding vivacity. Juicy, palate-coating orchard fruit and candied citrus flavors are energetic and pure, picking up spice and toasty lees notes with air. The focused finish is smoky, pliant and very persistent. I like the blend of richness and vivacity here. 91 2009 Pinot Noir La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($45) Medium red. Pure, highly perfumed aromas and flavors of raspberry, bitter cherry, spicecake and flowers. Sweet and silky, offering vivid red fruit and floral pastille flavors, along with a subtly perfumed quality and slow-mounting spiciness. Finishes sappy and long, with fine-grained tannins and resonating florality. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Jack's Barrel La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($55) Full red. Aromas of raspberry, incense, candied rose and allspice, with a sneaky note of cola gaining strength with air. Sappy and concentrated, with vibrant red berry and bitter cherry flavors and a hint of rose pastille. Leads with its spicy fruit and finishes with impressive energy and mounting tannins. Give this some air or wait a few years before you open a bottle.

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90(+?)

Derby Wine Estates 2007 Brut Rose Of Pinot Noir Derbyshire Vineyard San Luis Obispo County ($54) Pale orange. High-pitched aromas of citrus zest, pear and white flowers, with a redcurrant note that gains strength with air. Dry and racy, with very good depth to its tangy red berry and blood orange flavors. Finishes clean and dry, with very good clarity and length. This vineyard is located in San Simeon, close to the Pacific Ocean. 89 2008 Pinot Noir Derbyshire Vineyard San Luis Obispo County ($36) Bright medium red. Sexy aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, Asian spices and dried flowers. Spicy, juicy and penetrating, with impressive energy and a hint of medicinal bitterness on the back. This pinot seems to have the energy to reward patience. 88 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve Derbyshire Vineyard San Luis Obispo County ($42) Ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, cherry-cola, licorice and white pepper. Seductively sweet flavors of red fruits and floral pastilles are lifted by lively acidity and take on weight with air. Finishes broad and juicy, with a firm tannic spine and dusty tannins. 89 2007 Fifteen 10 Derby Vineyard Paso Robles ($32) (59% syrah, 29% grenache and 12% mourvedre): Ruby-red. Smoky cherry and blackberry scents are complemented by dark chocolate and espresso. Supple dark fruit flavors become firmer with air and pick up a spicy nuance. Finishes on a slightly dry note, with good cut. 87 2007 Counoise Paso Robles ($32) Ruby-red. Smoky red berry and cherry aromas show herbal and mineral qualities, with a floral element adding a seductive character. Racy and bright in the mouth, displaying tangy red fruit flavors that are a tad pinched. Finishes with good cut and persistence, the smoky note repeating. 87

Also recommended: 2007 Syrah Paso Robles (85), 2007 Zinfandel Paso Robles (86). Other wines tasted: 2008 Grenache Paso Robles.

Dierberg Vineyard 2008 Chardonnay Estate Grown Santa Maria Valley ($32) Bright gold. Highly perfumed bouquet evokes poached pear, vanilla and allspice, with a toasty note in the background. Fleshy and smooth in texture, showing good heft to its orchard fruit and spice flavors. The vanilla note comes back on the finish, which clings with good tenacity and length. 89 2008 Pinot Noir Estate Grown Sta. Rita Hills ($42) Vivid red. Highly fragrant aromas of raspberry, cola, mocha and woodsmoke, with a spicy nuance gaining power with air. This juicy, sweet pinot offers good depth to its red berry preserve and spice flavors. Smooth and attractively sweet on the spiceaccented finish, which shows very good clarity and length. 90 2008 Pinot Noir Estate Grown Santa Maria Valley ($42) Bright ruby-red. Dark berries and cherry on the musky nose. Ripe and smooth in texture, with good depth to its black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Shows good intensity on the finish, with features very firm tannins and a hint of candied licorice. This could still use a little time to unwind. 88(+?) 2008 Syrah Estate Grown Santa Ynez Valley ($34) Inky ruby. Dark berries, olive and cracked pepper on the fragrant nose. Sappy, precise blackberry and cassis flavors pick up sweetness with air and shows a smooth velvety texture. The persistent finish features spices and lingering dark fruit preserves. This wine is already showing plenty of complexity. 89 2008 Syrah Estate Grown Happy Canyon Of Santa Barbara ($34) Saturated ruby. Aromas of black fruits, cracked pepper and olive, accented by a smoky overtone. Deep and expansive but could use more vivacity; blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show a distinct smokiness and a spicy character. The pungent finish displays lingering spice and dark berry qualities. 88 2007 Pinot Noir Estate Grown Steven Santa Maria Valley ($70) Vivid ruby-red. Heady, complex

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bouquet displays scents of dark berries, cola, licorice and potpourri, with a vanilla undertone. Juicy, palatecoating black raspberry and mulberry flavors boast impressive intensity, with floral pastille and smoke nuances contributing complexity. Fine-grained tannins add shape and grip to the long, sappy, spiceaccented finish. 92

Dunning Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay Paso Robles ($24) Bright yellow-gold. Deeply scented aromas of poached pear, orange pith and honey are complemented by a smoky, leesy note. Juicy and taut on entry, then softer in the middle, offering pliant orchard fruit, citrus pith and sweet butter qualities. Finishes with some heat and an echo of bitter orange peel. 88 2009 Zinfandel Private Reserve Paso Robles ($35) Glass-staining ruby. High-pitched aromas of red and dark berries, spices and woodsmoke. Juicy and precise, with good depth to its raspberry and mulberry flavors. Shows a spicy quality on the finish, which leaves sappy red fruits behind. 88 2008 Syrah Private Reserve Paso Robles ($35) Opaque ruby. Pungent, ripe aromas and flavors of blackberry, violet, dark chocolate and licorice. Sweet, lush and round, with impressive breadth. This hefty but energetic wine finishes with lingering sweetness and the slightest hint of tannins. 90 2008 Meritage Paso Robles ($32) (70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% cabernet franc): Opaque violet. Ripe plum, espresso and dark chocolate on the nose, with a note of black pepper adding urgency. Rich, deeply pitched cherry and bitter chocolate flavors are complicated by notes of candied licorice and tobacco. Distinctly ripe and undeniably powerful, with strong finishing punch; I'd have liked more vivacity, though. 87

Also recommended: 2009 Ridge Top Zinfandel Paso Robles (86).

Eberle Winery 2010 Viognier Mill Road Vineyard Paso Robles ($21) Light, bright gold. Peach, pear, lemon and jasmine on the nose and in the mouth, with a slight suggestion of heat. Suave on entry, then firm and somewhat uncompromising in the middle. Finishes with good clarity and length, the lemon note repeating. 87 2010 Chardonnay Estate Paso Robles ($19) Bright gold. Aromas of ripe pineapple, poached pear, ginger and honey. Dense and powerful, with gentle acidity giving lift to the lush tropical fruit flavors. Finishes broad and long, with lingering warmth and a hint of butterscotch. 87 2009 Cotes Du Robles Blanc Paso Robles ($24) (65% grenache blanc and 35% viognier): Greentinged gold. Peach, honeyed pear and spices on the nose, with a light dusting of minerals adding energy. Fresh pit and orchard fruit flavors are brightened by a suggestion of orange zest and pick up spiciness with air. Finishes with good lift and a subtle orange quality. Nicely balanced white blend, with no excess weight. 89 2009 Syrah Steinbeck Vineyard Paso Robles ($21) Deep, bright ruby. Fresh raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by cracked pepper and floral notes. Bright, energetic and juicy, offering clean red fruit flavors, gentle acidity and easy tannins. No excess fat in evidence. Finishes nervy and slightly tartedged, with the cherry and pepper notes repeating. 88 2007 Cotes Du Robles Paso Robles ($21) (39% syrah, 34% mourvedre and 27% grenache): Bright ruby. Fresh raspberry and flowers on the nose, with a touch of peppery spice adding lift. Juicy, fruitdriven blend, with a slightly jammy character but a seamless texture. The smooth finish shows good clarity and length. 88 2007 Zinfandel Steinbeck And Wine Bush Vineyards Paso Robles ($24) Bright ruby. Superripe aromas of cherry, plum, dark chocolate and licorice. Sweet and broad, with good heft to the rich dark fruit

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character. In a broad-shouldered style, finishing with serious grip and lingering smokiness. 88 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled Paso Robles ($34) Bright violet color. Fragrant, complex bouquet of raspberry, candied cherry and flowers, with a hint of smokiness. Juicy, energetic red fruit flavors show a suave blend of richness and energy. Lively and delicious right now, finishing with a dusting of tannins. 90

Also recommended: 2010 Muscat Canelli Eberle Estate Paso Robles (86).

Ecluse 2009 Grenache Paso Robles ($36) Vivid ruby. Sexy aromas of red berries, flowers and Asian spices, plus a hint of woodsmoke. Supple, broad and sweet, with deep raspberry and cherry preserve flavors, silky tannins and very good clarity. Shows energetic finishing lift and length. Impressively elegant and precise for a New World grenache. 90 2009 Improv Red Wine Lock Vineyard Paso Robles ($36) (59% syrah and 41% zinfandel): Deep ruby. Lively and focused on the nose, displaying fresh red fruit and floral scents and a slow-building licorice nuance. Sappy and expansive on the palate, offering bitter cherry, herb and floral pastille qualities. Shows good intensity on the spicy, dark fruit-dominated finish. This is drinking well right now but has the balance to age. 89 2009 Zinfandel Lock Vineyard Paso Robles ($34) Inky purple. Very sexy, perfumed aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerals and incense; showing a lot of aromatic character. Quite lively and juicy in the mouth, with sappy dark berry, cherry and candied floral flavors. The energetic finish features supple tannins that add shape and gentle grip. 90 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Lock Vineyard Paso Robles ($36) Full ruby. Cherry-vanilla, clove and woodsmoke on the fragrant nose. Lush and creamy in texture, offering deep dark fruit flavors and notes of candied flowers and herbs. Finishes with good clarity and echoing vanilla and floral notes. This sexy wine is surprisingly approachable now. 90 2009 Petite Sirah Sereno Vista Vineyard Paso Robles ($38) Opaque violet color. Sexy, oak-spiced dark berries on the fragrant nose. Lush and seamless in texture, offering sappy blackberry and boysenberry flavors that pick up a smokiness with air. Shows a strong vanillin oak quality on the finish, which leaves sweet dark fruit preserve notes behind. Nothing shy here. 90 2007 Ensemble Paso Robles ($38) (50% cabernet sauvignon and 25% each petit verdot and merlot): Deep ruby. Powerful cherry and blackcurrant scents are complicated by alluring smoked meat and spice notes and a light suggestion of tarragon. Full, fleshy dark berry flavors are lifted by gentle acidity and supported by fine-grained but firm tannins. Gains sweetness on the finish, picking up an exotic hint of sweet, cured tobacco. 90 2007 Syrah Lock Vineyard Paso Robles ($32) Full ruby. Complex aromas of dried red cherry, blackberry and violet. Juicy black and blue fruit flavors are complemented by smoky herbal and licorice qualities and a kiss of vanillin oak. Fleshy and full-bodied syrah with very good depth and finishing sweetness. This appealing, open-knit wine is delicious right now. 91

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Epiphany Cellars 2010 Grenache Blanc Camp Four Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($24) Bright yellow. Pungent, perfumed aromas of orange zest, dried pear, lees and herbs. Juicy and deep but surprisingly energetic, with alluring spiciness and a smoky nuance to its candied pear and tarragon flavors. Finishes with firm cut and good length, the pear and spice notes repeating. 89 2008 Revelation Red Wine Santa Barbara County ($35) (63% syrah, 30% grenache and 7% petite sirah): Glass-staining ruby. Cassis, licorice, dark chocolate and espresso on the nose. Ripe, chewy and dense, with powerful dark berry compote and licorice flavors and serious weight. Finishes with firm but ripe tannins and good length, leaving a note of bitter chocolate behind. Impresses with its power but I'd like to have seen a bit more vivacity. 88

Also recommended: 2008 Petite Sirah (85). Other wines tasted: 2008 Gypsy Santa Ynez Valley*.

Estancia 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($16) (includes 13% syrah, 8% petite sirah and 2% petit verdot): Bright ruby. Pungent aromas of red berries and spices, with a hint of cracked pepper. Dry and nervy, offering slightly tart red fruit flavors and a bitter touch of rooty sassafras. Refreshing enough but I'd like more flesh. 87

Other wines tasted: 2009 Zinfandel Paso Robles*.

Falcone Family Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley ($25) Bright gold. Smoky peach and dried apple aromas are complicated by toasted nuts, smoky lees and dried flowers. Chewy, nicely concentrated pit and orchard fruit flavors stain the palate, picking up bitter lemon pith and butterscotch nuances with air. Finishes smooth and a bit loose-knit, the pit fruit note repeating. 88 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($30) Bright ruby. Oak-spiced aromas of cherry, cassis and licorice, with a smoky overtone. Lush and smooth but lively, displaying very good clarity to its dark berry flavors. Finishes sweet, juicy and persistent. I like the way this wine unfolds in the glass and suspect that it will be even better in a few years. 90(+?) 2009 Syrah Paso Robles ($25) (includes 12% petite sirah): Bright purple. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, peppery spices, violet and woodsmoke: very syrah. Supple, lush and sweet, with spicy dark berry flavors complicated by a violet pastille quality. Smooth, nicely balanced, expressive syrah that finishes on a sweet note, with no obvious tannins. Shows a light touch for a New World rendition of the variety. 90 NV Annate Iii Paso Robles ($65) (65% 2006 syrah, 25% 2006 petite sirah, 7% 2007 cabernet sauvignon and 3% Annate II, aged in 60% new French oak): Opaque ruby. Powerful aromas of black and blue fruits and vanilla, with a smoky overtone. Oak-spiced blackberry and boysenberry flavors provide very good palate coverage, with velvety tannins providing shape. The finish repeats the blue fruit and cola notes and clings with impressive spicy intensity. 91

La Fenetre 2010 Chardonnay A Cote Santa Barbara ($20) Light yellow. Pear, peach pit and a hint of smoky lees on the nose. Sappy, dry and taut in the mouth, offering pliant orchard fruit flavors and a touch of bitter lemon pith. Comes up a bit short on the finish but I like this wine's firmness and grip. 88

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2009 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley ($28) Light, bright gold. Pungent, lees-accented aromas of lemon pith, pear and honey, with a hint of smoky minerals. Juicy and focused, offering dried orchard fruit flavors and a bracing note of bitter lemon. Shows an exotic iodine quality on the long, spicy finish. This opens up nicely with air. 90 2009 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($40) Bright gold. Oak-spiced aromas of nectarine, pear and white flowers. Lush and creamy on the palate, offering plump orchard and pit fruit flavors and a gentle dose of vanillin oak. Finishes smooth and sweet, with excellent tenacity and a resonating floral quality. I really like the blend of richness and vivacity here. 91 2009 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Block 11 Santa Maria Valley ($60) Green-gold. Sexy, oakspiced aromas of pear, melon, passion fruit and tangerine. Rich and expansive but surprisingly lithe, with excellent clarity to its ripe orchard fruit flavors. Smoky lees and vanilla bean notes add depth to the long, sappy, penetrating finish. There's a pretty suave interplay of richness and vivacity here. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley ($30) Bright medium red. Spicy, wild aromas of red berries, spicecake and flowers, plus a hint of smokiness. Silky, sweet and complex, offering a combination of zesty red fruit, smoke and spice tones. Focused and vibrant on the back end, finishing on a sappy raspberry note, with very good persistence. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Old Vines Santa Maria Valley ($55) Brilliant red. High-toned, alluringly perfumed bouquet combines strawberry, raspberry and Asian spices, with slow-building florality. Concentrated, energetic flavors of red berry preserves show impressive clarity and energy, and no rough edges. Finishes with silky, fine-grained tannins and lingering raspberry and rose qualities. This wine reminded me of a high-end Chambolle from a ripe year. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Le Bon Climat Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($60) Light, bright red. Perfumed, vibrant nose offers scents of raspberry and strawberry accented by fresh rose, rhubarb and vanilla. Silky and bright on the palate, with a sweet raspberry flavor deepened by a licorice nuance. Finishes smooth and long, with persistent red berry and cherry-cola flavors. 91

Also recommended: 2009 A Cote Pinot Noir Central Coast (86).

Fess Parker Winery 2010 Riesling Santa Barbara County ($14) Greenish yellow. Aromas of exotic tropical fruits, with a suggestion of candied orange. A real fruit bomb on the palate, with expansive flavors of peach, mango and pineapple. Quite rRipe and fleshy for riesling, with good finishing cling and decent length. I'm not sure that I'd have guessed the variety here. 87 2010 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($18) Light, bright gold. Ripe orchard fruits and honey on the nose and in the mouth. Smooth and fleshy but a bit loose-knit, with good density and a touch of oak spice. Finishes on a note of bitter lemon pith, with lingering warmth. With its considerable power, this will surely appeal to fans of dense, palate-coating California chardonnay. 87 2010 Chardonnay Ashley's Vineyard Santa Rita Hills ($32) Bright gold. Exotically perfumed scents of fresh pineapple, poached pear, vanilla and tarragon, with a slow-building smokiness. Rich and fleshy but energetic as well, offering juicy tropical fruit flavors and a touch of bitter pear skin. Finishes sappy and spicy, leaving a note of lemon zest behind. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County ($28) Bright ruby. Deep, ripe, expressive aromas of blackberry, cherry and spicy oak. Fresh, energetic and smoky, with a distinctly lush, broad texture to the dark berry flavors. This supple, sweet midweight finishes with good fruity cling and lingering spiciness. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Ashley's Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Bright violet color. Ripe, oak-accented red and dark berries on the nose. Sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors are complicated by notes of camphor

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and bitter chocolate, with a smoky oak note gaining strength with air. Clings nicely on the finish, which echoes the smoke and berry notes. This wine has the structure to reward a few years of bottle age. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Clone 115 Sta. Rita Hills ($55) Bright ruby. Cherry-vanilla and red berries on the fragrant, oak-spiced nose. Juicy, sweet and broad, with deep dark berry flavors and notes of mocha and clove. Shows very good depth of flavor without excess weight and finishes with noteworthy clarity and lingering spiciness. I'd give this wine a little more bottle age to allow the oak to integrate with the plush fruit. 91(+?) 2009 Pinot Noir Pommard Clone Sta. Rita Hills ($55) Vivid ruby-red. Smoke-accented aromas of redcurrant and cherry, with complicating notes of underbrush and dried rose. Shows fresh red fruit and herb flavors, along with a gently sweet rose pastille nuance and a touch of bitter licorice. Less showy than the other pinots in this year's line-up but I like this wine's complexity and finishing cut. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($55) Ruby-red. Pungent, oak-spiced aromas of raspberry and blackberry show a flamboyant personality and pick up notes of vanilla and mocha with air. Open-knit and supple in texture, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and a good dose of vanillin oak. The lumber recedes a bit on the finish, which showcases the vaguely jammy berry qualities. I suspect that a little bottle age will tame the oak here. 90(+?) 2009 Syrah Santa Barbara County ($22) Glass-staining purple. Ripe blackberry and cassis on the nose and in the mouth, with notes of cracked pepper and licorice adding complexity. Smoky and gently sweet, finishing with good depth and thrust. This syrah has the fruit to stand up to spicy, richly flavored foods. 88 2008 Syrah The Big Easy Santa Barbara County ($35) (includes 22% petite sirah): Bright ruby. Cherry and blackberry on the spicy, smoky nose. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors are lifted by gentle acidity and pick up licorice and cracked pepper nuances with air. The smoky note returns on the finish, which leaves sweet dark fruit preserve and pepper notes behind. This wine benefits a lot from aeration and is built to handle the richest red meat dishes. 91

Fiddlehead Cellars Kathy Joseph 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Happy Canyon Santa Ynez Valley ($25) Green-tinged yellow. Expressive aromas of pear, lemon pith and melon, with lively notes of chalk and white pepper. Vibrant citrus and pit fruit flavors are given spine by zesty minerality and pick up honeysuckle and baking spice notes with air. Pure, racy sauvignon with very good finishing clarity and tangy persistence. 90 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Goosebury Santa Ynez Valley ($34) Light yellow. High-pitched aromas of lime zest, jasmine and spices. Sappy, floral-accented citrus and pear flavors show very good depth and a refreshingly bitter quality on the back half. This dry, bright sauvignon finishes clean and taut, with a spicy edge. 90 2010 Pink Fiddle Pinot Noir Rose Fiddlestix Vineyard Santa Rita Hills ($22) Light, bright pink. Lively scents of strawberry and raspberry, with hints of blood orange and white pepper. Dry and focused, showing energetic red fruit and bitter rhubarb flavors and good mineral cut. Finishes with refreshing bite and a lingering note of tangy red berries. 89 2007 Pinot Noir Seven Twenty Eight Fiddlestix Sta. Rita Hills ($42) Bright red. Intensely perfumed scents of strawberry, black raspberry and potpourri, with a touch of smokiness. Bright, incisive red fruit flavors show very good depth, with a note of candied flowers emerging with air. Finishes silky and very long, with repeating raspberry and floral notes. This is delicious right now but has the depth and structure to age. 92

Figge Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir Pelio Vineyard Monterey ($30) Bright red. Fragrant aromas of cherry, smoke and musky herbs. Nicely focused if a bit strict, with good clarity to its bitter cherry and anise flavors. The

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cherry quality carries through to the dry, spicy finish. 88

Firestone Vineyard 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($15) Light gold. Orange and yellow plum on the nose and palate, with a hint of licorice building with air. Juicy and broad but could use more vivacity. Shows a refreshingly bitter quality on the finish, with the orange note echoing. 87 2009 Chardonnay Santa Ynez Valley ($17) Light yellow. Peach, orange and honey aromas and flavors show good clarity and a hint of sweet butter. Soft and round if a bit loose-knit, with good easygoing appeal and finishing breadth. Very fruity chardonnay that doesn't show the overt oak qualities of most California examples at this price point. 87

Also recommended: 2009 Gewurztraminer Santa Ynez Valley (86). Other wines tasted: 2009 Riesling Central Coast.

Folkway Wine Company 2008 Merlot Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($36) (100% merlot, raised in 80% new French oak): Bright ruby. Smoky oak, cassis and licorice on the pungent nose. Big, ripe and lush, offering deep blackberry and cassis flavors and notes of bitter chocolate and mocha. Large-scaled and broad but lively, with pliant tannins adding shape to the long, smoky, appealingly sweet finish. 90 2008 Black Ridge Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains ($36) (80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc, aged in 100% new French and American oak): Deep ruby. Black and blue fruits and vanilla on the nose and palate, with a slightly roasted note in the background. Musky and deeply pitched, with a broad finish that could use a bit more energy. Fans of big, rich red wines may find my score stingy. 88

Fourth Estate 2008 Pinot Noir Doctor's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($36) Medium red. Exotically perfumed, complex bouquet of dried red berries, vanilla, gingerbread and rose. Sweet, sappy and precise on the palate, offering brisk, oak-spiced strawberry and raspberry flavors that pick up weight with air. Packs a punch but there's no excess weight here. Finishes with impressive length and lingering smokiness. This is delicious right now. 90

Foxen Vineyard 2010 Sauvignon Blanc 7200 Vodelzang Vineyard Happy Canyon Of Santa Barbara ($26) (includes 15% viognier): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Focused, floral-accented aromas of tangerine, yellow plum and musky herbs. A juicy, slightly bitter, firm midweight that offers dried orchard fruit flavors and notes of tarragon and juniper berries. No excess fat here, or any easy fruit for that matter. Finishes with firm grip and very good thrust and spicy persistence. I really like this wine's blend of power and uncompromising dryness. It was fermented in 40% new oak, then saw 15% new barrels during aging, but I don't sense any excessive lumber. 90 2010 Chenin Blanc Old Vines Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($22) Light yellow. Aromas of dried pear, melon and beeswax, with a floral overtone and a hint of dried herbs. Fleshy but dry, with tightly wound honeydew and orchard fruit flavors that show a refreshingly bitter quality on the back end. A touch loose on the finish, which echoes the melon and herb notes. 88 2010 Chardonnay Steel Cut Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($32) Light yellow. Ripe melon and peach aromas are complicated by notes of clove, spearmint and honey. Rich and expansive, with serious power to its lush honeydew and pit fruit flavors. Shows a heady, spicy quality on the sappy, lingering, somewhat warm finish. This wine clocks in at 15.5% alcohol and I wonder if the ripeness is blurring the fruit. 87 2010 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Block Uu Santa Maria Valley ($32) Vivid yellow-gold. Aromas of peach, melon and honey, with subtle smoke and spice nuances. Broad and juicy, with good depth to its sappy pit fruit flavors. A touch of palate-numbing white pepper adds welcome bite to the long,

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spicy finish. For all this wine's richness I find it impressively lively and precise, in the style of the vintage. 90 2010 Chardonnay Tinaquaic Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($34) Light, bright gold. Tangerine, peach and honeydew on the nose. Less perfumed than the UU Block - Bien Nacido bottling, with musky herbal and spice overtones building with air. Silky pit fruit and melon flavors are brightened by orange pith and quinine notes, which add a touch of bitterness. Shows a bit of heat on the long, juicy, spicy finish. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley ($34) Dark red. Aromas of red and dark berries, oak spice, anise and potpourri, with a hint of woodsmoke. Juicy and appealingly sweet on the palate, offering vibrant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of cracked pepper. Shows good intensity and grip on the slightly rigid finish, with the cherry and pepper notes recurring. 88 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Block 8 Santa Maria Valley ($56) Deep, bright ruby. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, cherry-cola, vanilla and woodsmoke, with a spicy quality gaining strength with air. Juicy, penetrating red and dark berry flavors show very good depth and pick up energy with air. Repeats the cherry and spice notes on the long, juicy, gently smoky finish. Shows very good vivacity for its richness. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Sea Smoke Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($80) Bright ruby-red. Intense aromas of cherry and dark berries, complicated by pungent herbal and floral qualities and a hint of licorice. Broad, fleshy and deep, offering intense dark fruit flavors that pick up spiciness and a touch of vanilla with air. Finishes sappy, sweet and very long, with lingering cherry compote and vanilla notes. A big, powerful rendition of pinot, with the heft to work with the richest red meat dishes. 90 2009 Pinot Noir La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($56) Deep, vivid red. Smoky, spice-accented aromas of raspberry and cherry, with a touch of dried rose adding complexity. Youthfully taut on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, offering sappy red berry and cherry compote flavors and a suggestion of bitter chocolate. Shows very good intensity on the finish, which leaves notes of candied rose and licorice behind. 91 2009 Syrah Williamson-Dore Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($44) (made with the addition of 5% viognier): Opaque violet color. Black and blue fruits, violet and smoky oak on the assertively perfumed nose. Lush, sappy and palate-coating, with impressive depth to its blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Picks up notes of cracked pepper, candied flowers and licorice with air and finishes with serious power and smoky persistence. This syrah comes in at 14.5% alcohol, which is perfectly reasonable for these parts. 92

Frolicking Frog Cellars 2007 Jumpin Jehosaphat Paso Robles ($32) (65% zinfandel and 35% petite sirah): Inky ruby. Smoky cherry and cassis aromas are complemented by licorice, violet and minerals. Sweet dark fruit flavors are impressively deep and focused, with supple tannins adding grip. Youthfully taut on the long, vanillaaccented finish, with the floral note echoing. 89

Other wines tasted: 2006 Zinfandel Paso Robles*.

Gainey Vineyard 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($14) Green-tinged yellow. Highly perfumed aromas of pear skin, orange and mango, with a hint of peppery spice. Sweet and expansive but a tad loose-knit, offering pliant orchard and tropical fruit flavors and a late note of white pepper. Finishes smooth and sweet, with good cling. I'd have liked a bit more vivacity but this delivers a mouthful of juicy fruit. 88 2009 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills ($30) Bright red. Lively red berries and rhubarb on the nose, with notes of fresh flowers and blood orange adding complexity. Racy strawberry and raspberry flavors give way to a deeper bitter cherry quality in the middle, with a tangy mineral nuance adding cut. Closes gently sweet, nicely delineated and persisent. 90

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2009 Pinot Noir Limited Selection Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Medium red. Spicy raspberry and cherry on the nose, complicated by notes of white pepper and musky herbs. The sweet, juicy red berry flavors show very good clarity, with orange zest and baking spices providing further punch. Finishes lithe, crisp and long, with silky tannins and very good lift. This is quite elegant for a reserve bottling of California pinot noir; that moniker is usually code for "Xtreme." 91

Greg Norman California Estates 2008 Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($15) Dark purple. Ripe cherry and blueberry on the nose and in the mouth. Full-bodied and smooth, with good depth but only moderate energy. Finishes with good punch and a repeating blueberry note. 87

Also recommended: 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles (86), 2007 Syrah Camatta Hills Paso Robles (85).

Grey Wolf Cellars 2009 Grenache Instinctual Paso Robles ($22) (34% grenache and 22% each of mourvedre, syrah and petite sirah): Dark ruby. Dark berries, vanilla and smoke on the fragrant nose. Lush and expansive, with good depth to its blackberry and blueberry flavors. Turned a bit warmer with air, finishing smooth and sweet, with good cling and slight heat. 88 2009 Syrah Predator Paso Robles ($22) (includes 12% carignane, 8% petite sirah and 4% grenache): Bright purple. Aromas of cassis, blackberry and bitter chocolate, lifted by floral notes of violet and lavender. Broad and densely packed, but also juicy and penetrating, with intense dark fruit and vanilla flavors and a touch of licorice. The long finish features sweet, ripe tannins and lingering oak spices. Lots of primary fruit here but the wood stands out strongly right now. 88(+?) 2009 Soulmate Red Wine Paso Robles ($22) (20% each of mourvedre, carignane, tannat, syrah and petite sirah): Bright purple. Blackberry, blueberry and licorice on the nose and palate. Fat, round, sweet and full, with a slight looseness on the back end. Finishes with good cling but no obvious tannins. I'd have liked a bit more structure. 87 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Alpha Paso Robles ($28) (includes 10% petit verdot): Full ruby. Powerful, deeply pitched aromas of blackberry, dark chocolate and espresso. Rich, concentrated dark berry flavors show impressive power, with notes of bitter chocolate and licorice adding complexity. A chewy texture adds grip to the long, spice-accented finish. This wine is very young but possesses good material. 89(+?)

Other wines tasted: 2008 Lineage Booker Vineyard Paso Robles*.

Gypsy Canyon Winery 2009 Pinot Noir Trois Sta. Rita Hills ($95) Bright ruby. Explosively perfumed bouquet of red berry compote, cherry, Asian spices and woodsmoke. Broad, sappy and appealingly sweet, with very good depth and energy to its red fruit and gingerbread flavors. A note of bitter chocolate comes up with air and adds a serious note to the very long, spicy finish. 91

Halter Ranch Vineyard 2010 Viognier Paso Robles ($24) (includes 9% marsanne): Green-tinged gold. Musky aromas of dried peach and nectarine are complemented by a suave floral quality. Then taut and dry in the mouth, with a tangy edge to the nectarine and citrus pith flavors. Finishes ripe and juicy, with good clarity and cut. 89 2010 Rose Paso Robles ($14) (43% grenache, 42% syrah and 15% mourvedre): Straightforward aromas of strawberry, redcurrant and tangerine. Bright and energetic on the palate, with lively red berry and cherry flavors. This easygoing, expressive rose is ridiculously easy to drink. 88

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Hearst Ranch Winery 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Julia Paso Robles ($12) Pale yellow. Musky orchard fruits on the nose and in the mouth. Juicy and broad on entry, then firmer in the mid-palate, with decent cut and a touch of dried herbs on the back. Finishes with good clarity and a slight edginess. 87 2009 Three Sisters Cuvee White Wine Paso Robles ($18) (40% each of marsanne and grenache blanc, with 20% roussanne): Bright gold. Aromas of ripe pear and nectarine, with a hint of white pepper adding lift. Supple but slightly loose-knit, with deep orchard and pit fruit flavors packing a solid punch. Shows a lot of fruit but I'd like more grip. 87 2008 Three Sisters Cuvee Red Wine Paso Robles ($20) (40% syrah, 30% grenache and 30% mourvedre): Deep ruby. Fresh strawberry and raspberry aromas offer straightforward fruity appeal. Sweet, silky cherry and red berry flavors are given a tangy quality and good lift by a peppery note. Straightforward, brisk and very easy to drink, finishing with good sweetness and persistence. 88 2007 The Point Red Wine Paso Robles ($70) (54% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 10% petite sirah, 9% petit verdot and 2% syrah): Deep ruby. Intensely fragrant aromas of cherry and black raspberry preserves, gingerbread and sexy vanillin oak. Energetic dark berry flavors show excellent clarity and seductive sweetness, with fine-grained tannins adding grip. Finishes broad, sweet and long, with the vanilla note echoing. I find the fruit up to the obvious oak treatment, but I'd give this blend time to harmonize. 90(+?)

Also recommended: 2009 Bunkhouse Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles (86).

Hunt Cellars 2007 Thriller Red Destiny Vineyard Paso Robles ($48) (40% syrah, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 15% zinfandel, 10% merlot and 5% petite sirah): Deep ruby. Cherry and cassis on the pungent, smokeaccented nose. Broad cherry-vanilla and mocha flavors show good depth and a solid dose of oak spice. In a rich, powerful style, with strong finishing thrust and a lingering vanilla note. 88 2006 Syrah Destiny Vineyards Que Sirah Paso Robles ($50) (a 50/50 blend of petite sirah and syrah): Inky purple. Dark berries, cherry and espresso on the pungent nose. Ripe and smoky, with deep cassis and bitter cherry flavors showing a slightly hard edge. This big, rich syrah finishes with serious grip and lingering smokiness. A bit inelegant but it would work with the richest red meat dishes. 87

Other wines tasted: 2007 Bon Vivant Cabernet Sauvignon Destiny Vineyards Paso Robles.

J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines 2009 Gesture Gsm Paso Robles ($30) (59% grenache, 31% syrah and 10% mourvedre): Deep ruby. Ripe blackberry and cherry aromas, with notes of smoky oak and licorice. Lush and creamy but on the jammy side, with a subtle spiciness to the broad dark fruit flavors. Plenty rich but I'd have liked a bit more nuance. 88 2009 Gesture Mourvedre Paso Robles ($30) (includes 12% syrah): Bright ruby. Powerful aromas of cassis, licorice and violet. Sweet, lush and deep on entry, with good mid-palate lift to its bitter cherry, cassis and cracked pepper flavors. Gently tannic and nicely persistent on the vanilla-accented finish. This open-knit, fruity wine offers good balance and a creamy texture. 90 2009 Gesture Syrah Paso Robles ($30) (includes 6% grenache): Inky purple. Vaguely porty aromas of dried cherry, cassis, licorice and dark chocolate. Then dense and firm on the palate, with pliant, smoky flavors of dark fruits perked up by lively acids. Deeply pitched and broad, finishing with slow-mounting tannins and a note of bitter chocolate. I'd have liked a bit more freshness here. 87 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Hilltop Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) (includes 9% malbec and 7% each of petite sirah and petit verdot): Glass-staining ruby. Plum jam, blackcurrant, minerals and tobacco on the nose. Ripe, sweet and supple in texture, with plump dark fruit flavors accented by a minty nuance.

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Finishes gently tannic, with good length and a lingering note of chewing tobacco. 89 2008 Cuvee St. E Paso Robles ($35) (43% each of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, plus 10% malbec and 4% petit verdot): Deep ruby. Cassis, cherry, tobacco and smoky oak on the nose. Firmly built and a touch dry, showing good lift to its bitter cherry and dark berry flavors. Precise and high-pitched but a bit ungiving right now. Finishes with building tannins that add closing grip. 88(+?) 2008 Cuvee Pau Paso Robles ($50) (95% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit verdot): Bright purple. Oak-accented aromas of blackcurrant and tobacco, with a subtle note of dried flowers. Juicy, spicy and on the dry side, with powerful dark berry and bitter cherry flavors sweetened by vanillin oak. Finishes with good focus and tannic grip, leaving cherry and smoke notes behind. I suspect that a little bottle age would help to integrate the oak and dense fruit. 88(+?) 2008 Petite Sirah Tower Road Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) Bright purple. Deep, smoky aromas of dark berries, cherry compote and resinous herbs. Lush and creamy in texture, with plump blackberry and boysenberry flavors that seem a bit loose-knit. A touch of singed plum lingers on the warm, creamy, clinging finish. Lots of fruit and flavor here but I'd like more structure. 88

J. Wilkes 2008 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($24) Light yellow. Pungent, perfumed aromas of orange pith, pear, toasty lees and honey. Juicy and deep but energetic, with appealing sweetness and a smoky nuance to the candied citrus, pear and honeysuckle flavors. Finishes with firm cut and very good length, the pear and honey notes repeating. 90 2007 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($19) Light, bright yellow. Pungent aromas of nectarine, pear skin, white flowers and honey. Juicy and focused, offering smooth, sappy orchard fruit and candied citrus flavors and subtle spiciness. Lively and fruit-driven on the nicely persistent, energetic finish. There's an interesting blend of rich and tangy here that will make this wine very flexible with food. I also had the chance to retaste a couple of older pinots this fall: the 2007 Solomon Hills Vineyard is aging gracefully, with its once-exotic floral character calming down slowly; the 2006 Bien Nacido Vineyard Block Q is still bright and energetic but has put on weight and picked up some smoky notes. I'd have no problem drinking it now. 89

Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 Vii Vii White Paso Robles ($35) (50% grenache blanc, 30% viognier and 20% roussanne): Light, bright gold. High-pitched aromas of peach, nectarine, pear and jasmine. A supple, spicy midweight, offering fresh pit and orchard fruit flavors and a touch of ginger. A fragrant, juicy, nicely concentrated blend with very good finishing clarity and length. 88 2009 Strayts Paso Robles ($45) (55% merlot, 24% syrah, 16% petit verdot and 5% cabernet sauvignon): Inky ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry and blueberry compote, lavender, incense and black pepper. A smoky quality adds complexity to the rich dark berry flavors, which are given shape by silky tannins. Very suave, creamy and sweet, with good finishing thrust and an echo of spice and floral notes. 89 2009 Hell's Kitchen Paso Robles ($50) (32% syrah, 31% grenache, 23% mourvedre and 14% tannat): Bright purple. Dark berries, violet and Indian spices on the smoky nose. Deeply pitched flavors of bitter cherry and cassis stain the palate and pick up a suave vanilla note with aeration. Smooth and sweet on the finish, which clings with noteworthy tenacity. 90

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2008 Jersey Girl Paso Robles ($45) (100% syrah): Inky purple. Sexy, oak-spiced dark berry preserve aromas are complemented by notes of sandalwood and violet. Sweet, penetrating black raspberry, mulberry and vanilla flavors are framed by velvety tannins and deliver solid punch, with no rough edges. Juicy and seamless syrah with bright finishing lift and very good spicy persistence. 90 2008 Mirror Paso Robles ($40) (58% syrah, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 8% petit verdot and 4% merlot): Glass-staining ruby. Blueberry, boysenberry and smoky Indian spices on the nose, with a sexy oak quality building with air. Juicy dark berry flavors are framed by supple tannins and energized by tangy acidity. Gains depth and fleshiness with air, finishing smoky and persistent. 88 2008 Jack Of Hearts Paso Robles ($48) (51% cabernet sauvignon, 44% petit verdot and 5% merlot): Dark violet color. Sexy, expansive aromas of blackberry, cola and pipe tobacco, with notes of allspice and anise adding complexity. Densely packed red and dark fruit flavors stain the palate, with sexy oak spice and floral nuances adding allure. This rich, silky wine finishes with excellent thrust and lingering floral pastille and cola notes. Improved markedly with aeration. 88(+?)

Jaffurs Wine Cellars 2009 Mistress Pinot Noir Presidio Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($42) (the fruit for this wine, which is a side project of winemaker David Yates, was sourced from the Presidio vineyard, a cool site west of the Sta. Rita Hills near Lompoc): Light, bright red. Red berries, cherry and herbs on the spice-accented, smoky nose. A juicy, taut midweight that offers gently sweet redcurrant and cherry flavors. Shows a touch of blood orange on the finish, which clings with very good intensity and lingering spiciness. 90 2010 Petite Sirah Thompson Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($34) Inky purple. Candied blackberry and cola on the nose, with notes of cracked pepper and mocha adding complexity. Big and broad but lively, offering juicy dark fruit flavors and a late jolt of tangy acidity. Shows very good clarity and lift on the long, spicy finish. Energetic for this normally burly variety. 90 2009 Syrah Ampelos Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($46) (15.2% alcohol): Opaque purple. Deeply pitched aromas of cherry skin, cassis and licorice, with notes of smoke and cracked pepper in the background. Firm and structured, with intense dark fruit flavors lifted by a spicy quality. Dusty tannins add shape and grip to the very long, spicy finish. This is a baby. 91(+?) 2009 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($46) Inky violet color. Exotically perfumed, fruit-dominated bouquet displays blueberry, boysenberry and smoky vanillin oak. Lush and creamy in texture, offering liqueur-like black and blue fruit flavors framed by supple tannins. The spicy note comes back on the finish, which is smooth, sweet and impressively persistent. This big boy carries 15.4% alcohol but I don't sense any excess heat. 92 2009 Syrah Verna's Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($42) Dark purple. Fragrant, complex scents of dark berry preserves, olive tapenade, violet and star anise, with slow-building florality. Juicy and precise, showing very good depth to its energetic blackberry and bitter cherry flavors. A deeper note of licorice comes up on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity. By all means decant this if you insist on opening it now. 91(+?) 2009 Syrah Larner Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($42) Inky purple. Compelling perfume of black and blue fruits, olive tapenade, licorice and smoky Indian spices. Shows classic smoky syrah character, with enticing sweetness and intensity to its dark fruit compote and licorice flavors. The impressively persistent finish repeats the smoky note and clings with spicy tenacity. 92 2009 Syrah Thompson Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($42) Inky purple. Deeply concentrated, textbook syrah aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice, dark chocolate and candied violet. Dense and thick, with powerful flavors of cherry compote and blackcurrant complemented by smoky oak. Rich, penetrating and long, with powerful but harmonious tannins that could use a couple years to smooth out. 91(+?) 2009 Syrah Upslope Santa Barbara County ($75) Inky purple. A strikingly complex bouquet evokes candied dark berries, cola, incense and exotic Indian spices. Ripe and powerful but by no means heavy, in

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spite of the 15.2% alcohol. Stains the palate with intense blackberry and boysenberry flavors complicated by violet pastille and clove. Finishes sweet and very long, with excellent thrust and lingering spiciness. 93

Jelly Roll 2009 Syrah Santa Ynez Valley ($24) Opaque purple. Musky black and blue fruits, minerals and spices on the nose. Intensely flavored, juicy and focused, with high-pitched blackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of dark chocolate. Finishes with very good length and youthful tannic grip. This is a baby. 90(+?) 2009 Syrah Rim Rock Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley ($45) Vivid ruby. Mineral-accented blackberry and violet aromas are slow to open, eventually showing notes of olive tapenade and cracked pepper. Brighter red fruits on the spice-accented palate, with tangy acidity providing lift and clarity. Finishes with excellent spicy thrust and a strong echo of black olive. This wine benefits a lot from aeration. 91

Jonata 2009 La Flor De Jonata Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley ($60) (68% sauvignon blanc and 32% semillon): Bright, green-tinged gold. Ripe, highly expressive aromas of powerful, smoke-accented peach, quince and floral honey, lifted by anise and dusty minerals. Dried pit fruits and poached pear on the palate, with a late jolt of bitter lemon zest adding energy. Finishes spicy and focused, leaving behind notes of honey and candied citrus fruits. 91 2008 Todos Santa Ynez Valley ($50) (a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot): Dark purple. Smoky cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by notes of pipe tobacco, musky underbrush and cola. Broad and sappy, with a dense, chewy texture and liqueur-like cherry and cassis flavors. Powerful but lively blend with a long, spicy finish and lingering smokiness. 91 2008 La Tierra De Jonata Sangiovese Santa Ynez Valley ($75) (94% sangiovese and 6% syrah): Saturated ruby. Fresh redcurrant and cherry aromas are complicated by notes of vanilla, dried rose and spicecake. Juicy and focused on entry, then broader in the mid-palate, showing very good clarity to its bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors. The cherry and spice notes repeat on a long, sweet, gently tannic finish. This is consistently one of the most successful takes on this variety from the New World. 92 2008 Fenix Santa Ynez Valley ($75) (70% merlot, 11% cabernet sauvignon, 11% petit verdot and 8% cabernet franc): Saturated ruby. Cherry-vanilla, pipe tobacco, mocha and spices on the intensely perfumed nose. Sappy, densely packed bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors are lifted by tangy acidity and complicated by notes of vanilla and cracked pepper. Juicy and broad on the finish, with the cherry and mocha notes echoing. Very suave now but has the structure to age. 93 2008 La Fuerza De Jonata Santa Ynez Valley ($75) (94% petit verdot, 4% cabernet sauvignon and 2% merlot): Inky purple. Intensely perfumed aromas of violet, cassis and plum, with complicating notes of toasty oak and a touch of candied licorice. Supple, elegant and sweet but firm, with precise dark fruit compote flavors framed by smooth, supple tannins. Very long on the finish, with the dark berry note repeating. 92 2008 El Alma De Jonata Santa Ynez Valley ($125) (75% cabernet franc, 10% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 5% petit verdot): A perfumed, kaleidoscopic bouquet displays scents of dark berry preserves, vanilla, licorice pastille, cola and pipe tobacco, with an intense overlay of floral oils. Broad, fleshy and sweet, offering intense blackcurrant and blueberry flavors that stain the palate. The vanilla and spice notes build strongly through the very long, sappy, penetrating finish. Impressively energetic for such a rich wine, and the tannins are strikingly harmonious. 93 2008 El Desafio De Jonata Santa Ynez Valley ($125) (84% cabernet sauvignon, 10% petit verdot, 4% cabernet franc and 2% merlot): Glass-staining purple. Seductively perfumed nose displays black and blue fruits, mocha, vanilla and incense, along with a strong suggestion of candied rose. Offers a suave marriage of density and energy, with intense flavors of dark berry compote, chewing tobacco, spicecake and floral pastilles. Finishes chewy and sweet, with integrated tannins and strong lingering spiciness. 94

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2008 La Sangre De Jonata Santa Ynez Valley ($125) (98% syrah and 2% viognier): Opaque purple. Ripe, expansive aromas of boysenberry, cassis, vanilla and violet, complicated by olive and cracked pepper nuances and a hint of cola. Lush and densely packed, offering sweet, broad black and blue fruit flavors and sexy oak spice qualities. Dusty tannins add shape and grip to the very long, spice- and smoke-accented finish, which echoes the cassis and vanilla notes. Nothing shy about this big boy. 94

Jorian Hill Vineyards 2009 Viognier Santa Ynez Valley ($30) Bright yellow. Tangerine, peach and honey on the nose, with floral and spice notes adding complexity. Juicy, broad pit and citrus fruit flavors show good depth and a touch of back-end warmth. A ripe, plush rendition of the variety that finishes with good cling and a touch of bitterness. 88

Kaleidos 2008 White Paso Robles ($27) (25% each of viognier, roussanne, marsanne and grenache blanc): Bright gold. Complex scents of nectarine, apple and honeysuckle, with a spicy overtone. Fleshy and deep but precise, with very good depth to its sappy pit fruit flavors. Shows an intense note of candied flowers on the spicy, penetrating finish. This would work with rich or lighter foods. 88 2007 Proprietary Red Morpheus Paso Robles ($34) (57% mourvedre and 43% syrah): Bright ruby. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose, along with a slightly roasted character. Broad and deeply pitched, offering smoky blackcurrant and bitter cherry flavors and slow-building spiciness. Clings nicely on the finish, with the warm note repeating. 87 2007 Syrah Halter Ranch Paso Robles ($45) Inky purple. Deeply pitched aromas of blueberry and cherry-cola are complicated by spice and smoke nuances and a hint of cracked pepper. Supple, ripe and powerful, with deep dark fruit compote flavors picking up spiciness with air. A candied licorice note builds with air and carries through the long, sappy finish. 91 2007 Syrah Starr Ranch Paso Robles ($45) Bright purple. Aromas of dark berries, Indian spices and violet, with a peppery topnote. Still a bit primary, offering tangy black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that put on weight with aeration. Finishes with very good focus and taut, nervy cut. Give this one some bottle age. 89(+?) 2007 Syrah Lock Vineyards Paso Robles ($45) Glass-staining purple. Perfumed aromas of cherry, cassis, mint, peppery spices and smoky oak. Dense, juicy and penetrating, with very suave, energetic flavors of dark berries, herbs and spices. Firmly built but not at all dry, finishing with bright acidity and good length. 88 2006 Grenache Paso Robles ($45) Bright ruby. Cherry, red berries and vanilla on the fragrant nose and in the mouth. Ripe and fleshy grenache with good depth and breadth to its raspberry and cherry compote flavors; picks up a smoky quality with air. Finishes with lingering vanilla and spice notes and a hint of warmth. 88 2006 Syrah Reserve Paso Robles ($35) (includes 5% grenache): Bright ruby. Vibrant, intensely spicy aromas of blackberry, spicecake, cracked pepper and fresh flowers. Energetic dark fruit flavors are deep but vibrant, with refreshing minerality adding cut. I'd have guessed that there was more grenache in here. 90

Other wines tasted: 2006 Morpheus Paso Robles.

Katin 2009 Viognier Paso Robles ($32) Bright yellow-gold. Ripe pit fruits, yellow plum and orange zest on the highly perfumed nose. Broad, rich and honeyed on entry, then smooth and silky in the middle, offering juicy nectarine and pear flavors and a refreshing jolt of bitter citrus pith. Bright and lively on the finish,

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with the orange note repeating. 90 2007 Syrah/Viognier Paso Robles ($65) (a 90/10 blend): Bright purple. A perfumed nose displays blackcurrant, blueberry and woodsmoke, with hints of olive and tobacco. Sweet and penetrating, offering sweet dark berry compote, licorice and candied violet flavors and a hint of black pepper. Reminds me a lot of a Barossa shiraz. Closes on a sweet note, with good finishing thrust and lingering spiciness. 89 2007 Syrah Michaud Vineyard Chalone ($45) Dark purple. Fragrant scents of dark berries, Indian spices, licorice and cracked pepper. Very syrah, offering energetic blackberry and mulberry flavors and slow-building smokiness. Becomes firmer with air and finishes with notes of bitter chocolate, cola and dark berry preserves. This drinks well now, especially with an hour or so of aeration. 90 2007 Syrah Glenrose Vineyard Paso Robles ($45) Inky ruby. Smoke-accented aromas of dark berries, cola and violet, plus a hint of vanilla. Broad and fleshy on the palate, offering deep blackberry and blueberry flavors firmed on the back by chewy tannins. In a serious style, with strong finishing thrust and lingering smokiness. 89

Kinero 2010 Alice Grenache Blanc Paso Robles ($22) Light yellow. Aromas of nectarine and pear are complemented by candied orange and honeysuckle. Juicy and precise, with very good depth to its sappy orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Closes on a spicy note, with impressive energy and length. 90 2010 Chardonnay Talley Vineyard Arroyo Grande Valley ($35) Bright gold. Exotic perfume of poached pear, vanilla, pungent flowers and toasty lees. Broad and fleshy but lively, with very good depth to its sappy orchard fruit flavors. The floral quality comes back on the finish, which lingers with impressive intensity and smoky persistence. For a rich wine this shows real elegance. 91 2010 Roussanne James Berry Vineyard Rustler Paso Robles ($30) Green-tinged gold. Heady aromas of candied ginger, pit fruits and honey, with a high-pitched topnote of lemon zest. Taut and focused on entry, then expands across the mid-palate, offering pliant citrus fruit and nectarine flavors and a subtle herbal quality. Finishes with very good cut and a persistent note of anise. Very complex roussanne. 91

Kukkula 2009 Pas De Deux Paso Robles ($42) (58% grenache and 42% syrah): Dark purple. An exotic, floralaccented bouquet features bright red berry and cherry aromas lifted by clove and white pepper. Quite ripe, with deep flavors of bitter cherry, spicecake and smoked meat. Finishes silky, luscious and long, with very gentle tannins. 90 2009 Sisu Paso Robles ($40) (51% syrah, 27% grenache and 22% mourvedre): Opaque ruby. Rich, ripe aromas and flavors of cassis, cherry compote and smoky herbs. Deep, sweet and lush, with sexy, oakspiced dark berry flavors and firm framing acidity. Finishes long and sappy, with fully integrated tannins and very good length. 90 2009 Aatto Paso Robles ($28) (56% mourvedre, 24% grenache and 20% counoise): Bright red. Assertive aromas of cherry, spices and smoky herbs, complicated by a floral nuance. Velvety and gently sweet, with a distinctly spicy quality to its red fruit and smoked meat flavors. Finishes with good length and a fine dusting of tannins. 89 2009 Lothario Paso Robles ($36) (35% mourvedre, 34% zinfandel and 31% grenache): Inky ruby. Very ripe, perfumed aromas of blackberry and violet. Dense, sappy and concentrated, with very good energy to its thick, sweet dark berry flavors. Finishes with dusty but sweet tannins and very good spicy persistence. This deserves some patience.

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90(+?) 2009 Lagniappe Paso Robles ($36) (53% zinfandel, 22% mourvedre, 11% syrah, 10% grenache and 4% counoise): Inky ruby. Blackberry, licorice, chocolate and smoky oak on the nose. Dense and solid, with powerful flavors of candied blackberry and cassis. Finishes sappy, with ripe, sweet tannins and lingering smokiness. 89 2009 I.P.O. Paso Robles ($36) (81% cabernet sauvignon, 10% zinfandel and 9% syrah): Opaque purple. Aromatic nose combines blackberry, blueberry, cola, licorice and dark chocolate. Youthfully tight, with harmonious acidity lifting the flavors of dark berries, bitter cherry and licorice. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins and good length. This wine could use some time to stretch out but drinks well now, with some aeration. 90 2009 In The Red Paso Robles ($38) (a 50/50 blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah): Inky ruby. Fresh cassis, boysenberry and plum on the nose, plus a strong peppery accent. Bitter cherry and sweet dark berry liqueur flavors are deep and velvety, with a jolt of tart finishing acidity adding back-end lift. Youthfully tight but opens up on the sweet, spice-accented finish. Give this wine some air or a couple more years of bottle age. 89(+?)

Lea (Tensley) 2010 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($32) Light yellow-gold. Ripe pit fruits and tangerine on the nose and in the mouth. Lush and creamy in texture, with broad peach and candied citrus flavors that pack a serious punch. Bright acidity adds focus to the long, creamy finish. I'd serve this with a rich, buttery dish. 88

Ledge 2009 Syrah Adams Ranch Vineyard Paso Robles ($55) Opaque purple. Dark berry preserves, licorice, cola and smoky minerals on the pungent nose. Deep and intense, with serious, nicely focused cassis and bitter cherry flavors that pick up spiciness with air. Expands impressively on the back end, leaving behind spice and violet pastille notes. This is the first release from Mark Adams' family vineyard, a 25-acre site (7 of them planted and 5 now producing) on sandy soil near the Denner and James Barry vineyards on the west side of Paso Robles. Adams has worked with Justin Smith at Saxum since 2004 and this wine was bottled with Saxum corks, so don't lose the labels. 92

Lillian 2008 Syrah California ($62) Glass-staining purple. Deeply pitched aromas of black and blue fruits, incense, olive tapenade and fruitcake, with smoke and violet notes gaining power with air. Rich and broad but almost shockingly energetic, offering sweet, liqueur-like blackberry and boysenberry flavors and exotic spice and floral pastille qualities. Intense and focused on the extremely long finish, which strongly repeats the floral and spice notes. I had the chance to retaste the 2007 Lillian this fall, and while it appears to have closed down a bit since this time last year, it is still a complex, compelling and extremely alluring wine. As rich as it is, it doesn't come off as overblown or overtly decadent. 94

Lucia Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) Green-tinged gold. An expressive nose combines vibrant pit and orchard fruits, musky lees and a smoky mineral element. Vibrant pear and quince flavors flesh out with air, picking up hints of honey and anise. Shows good clarity and thrust on the bracing, leesaccented finish. A rich but balanced style of chardonnay that should be even better in a couple years. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) Bright ruby. Pungent red and dark berry aromas are complicated by cola and mocha. Fleshy black raspberry and cherry flavors are firmed by dusty tannins and given lift by tangy acidity. Finishes gently spicy, with building smokiness and very good energy and focus. This wine got almost 50% new oak but it plays very nicely with the deep fruit.

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90 2009 Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($50) (fermented with 20% whole clusters): Vivid red. Spice-accented aromas of red berries and cherry, with a floral overtone. Juicy and precise, with very good depth to its sweet raspberry and cherry flavors. Tightly focused and tangy on the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and echoes the floral note. 92 2009 Syrah Gary's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) (all destemmed fruit): Opaque purple. Ripe dark fruit and violet aromas show very good clarity and intensity. High-pitched and lively, especially for syrah, with tightly focused black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Shows a juicy quality on the long, spice-accented finish. 91 2009 Syrah Susan's Hill Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) Glass-staining purple. A sexy, complex bouquet evokes candied dark berries, incense, violet and cracked pepper, with a subtle note of licorice in the background. Powerful and deep but impressively energetic, offering sweet blackberry and cassis flavors and no rough edges. The spicy finish displays excellent clarity and a late touch of black olive. 92

Luli 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands ($20) Bright ruby. Fresh red berry and peppery spice aromas and flavors show good energy. Smooth and seamless in texture, with good clarity and a late note of clove. Finishes juicy and clinging, leaving warm red fruit notes behind. 88

The Mer Soleil Vineyard 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay Silver Santa Lucia Highlands ($28) Light gold. High-pitched aromas of green apple, lemon zest and white flowers. Dry and racy on entry, then plumper in the middle, offering juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors that show a refreshingly bitter quality. Finishes taut and nervy, with good clarity and spicy persistence. No excess fat here. 88

Mercy Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir Cedar Lane Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($38) Bright medium red. Aromas of raspberry, rose, woodsmoke and baking spices. Lush, gently sweet red berry flavors are enlivened by cracked pepper and a sexy floral pastille quality. Packs a punch but carries no excess weight. The lingering finish repeats the smoky note. 89

Also recommended: 2009 Chardonnay Griva Vineyard Arroys Seco (85), 2009 Pinot Noir Griva Vineyard Arroyo Seco (85).

Michaud Vineyard 2010 Marsanne Chalone ($40) Bright yellow. Ripe pear and melon on the fragrant nose. Dry and tight on entry, then juicier in the mid-palate, offering sappy honeydew and orchard fruit flavors and a hint of bitter lemon pith. Finishes long and spicy, with very good focus and bite. Very grown-up in style but also offers impressive depth of fruit; this will be extremely flexible at the table. 90 2010 Pinot Blanc Chalone ($40) Bright, green-tinged gold. Musky pear skin and honeycomb on the fragrant nose. Picks up notes of anise and spices with air, which complement the juicy orchard fruit flavors. Turns sweeter on the finish, offering notes of melon and nectarine. I like this wine's blend of richness and vivacity. 89

Midnight Cellars NV Hannah And Joe's Gemini Port Paso Robles ($34) Dark violet color. Ripe black and blue fruit aromas are complicated by notes of licorice and espresso, with a subtle herbal note in the background. Lush and velvety, with expansive blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Shows a touch of warmth on the clinging, sweet, spicy finish. 89

Also recommended: 2010 Chardonnay Estate Vineyard Paso Robles (85), 2007 Merlot Estate

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Vineyard Paso Robles (86), 2006 Mare Nectaris Paso Robles (85). Other wines tasted: 2007 Capriccio Italien Paso Robles, 2007 Nebula Paso Robles*, 2006 Zenith Paso Robles*, 2006 Gemini Paso Robles*.

Minassian-Young 2010 Grenache Rose Paso Robles ($15) Pale pink. Spicy red berries and blood orange on the nose and palate. Dry and taut, with good back-end cut and lingering notes of raspberry and bitter cherry. 88 2009 Cuvee De Paso Halter Ranch Vineyard Paso Robles ($24) (40% each of mourvedre and counoise, 18% syrah and 2% grenache): Deep red. Fresh red and dark berry aromas show good energy and a jammy quality. Juicy and spicy on the palate, with good lift to its raspberry and boysenberry flavors. On the simple side but delicious and very easy to drink, finishing with good spiciness. 88 2009 Zinfandel Will's Hill Vineyard Paso Robles ($24) Opaque ruby. Liqueur-like aromas of blueberry and blackberry are complicated by licorice, Indian spices, graphite and a suggestion of fresh herbs. Sweet, lush and slightly high-toned, with good energy to its ripe dark fruit flavors. Plenty of up-front sex appeal here. The finish is sappy, focused and nicely persistent. 90

Also recommended: 2010 White Paso Robles (86), 2009 Zinfandel Estate Paso Robles (86).

Morgan Winery 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Monterey ($16) Light yellow. Smoky herb and lemon scents gain depth with air, picking up melon and nectarine notes. Fresh citrus and honeydew flavors show good energy and a slightly dry edge. Finishes with bright mineral lift and a touch of bitter fruit pit. This wine has the energy and heft to work with light or rich foods. 88 2009 Chardonnay Highland Santa Lucia Highlands ($26) Light gold. Honey, peach, orange and fresh pineapple on the nose. Medium-bodied, broad and juicy, with a touch of candied lemon giving the tropical fruit flavors definition and lift. Buttered toast and lemon zest notes linger on the somewhat rigid finish. 88 2009 Pinot Noir Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($50) Bright ruby. Fresh, assertive aromas of red berries, cherry pit and Asian spices, with a hint of vanilla. Deeply pitched raspberry and cherry flavors are complicated by notes of candied rose and allspice, with the middle palate displaying a supple texture and slow-mounting smokiness. Finishes sappy and long, with resonating spiciness. 91 2008 Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($48) Bright ruby-red. Pungent aromas of black raspberry and cherry-cola, along with smoke and anise accents and a hint of dried rose. Rich and palate-coating, with very good depth and energy to its dark fruit flavors. A masculine, powerful rendition of the variety, with serious finishing thrust and grip. 90 2008 Pinot Noir Tondre Grapefield Santa Lucia Highlands ($48) (all Dijon clones, 50% new oak): Vivid ruby-red. Complex bouquet evokes red and dark berries, Asian spices and mocha, plus a hint of dried rose. Juicy and precise on entry, then more broad in the middle, with very good depth and energy to its bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors. Shows good heft but no lack of vivacity, finishing with very good cut and length. This wine benefits from a brief decanting. 91 2009 Cotes Du Crows Monterey ($18) (a 50/50 blend of grenache and syrah): Bright ruby. Aromatic, spice-accented nose combines cherry, dark berries and smoke. Supple, juicy and gently sweet, offering good breadth and sappy dark fruit flavors sharpened by tangy acidity. Finishes with dusty, slightly dry tannins and a touch of bitterness. 87 2009 Pinot Noir Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands ($32) Bright violet color. Cherry and mulberry aromas are complemented by white pepper and rose. Dark in fruit profile but light on its feet, showing good clarity and a touch of bitterness to its juicy cherry and spice flavors. Finishes with firm grip and good length, leaving spice and floral notes behind. I like this wine's focus. 89

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2008 Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($48) Deep ruby-red. Powerful, pungent aromas of cherry and dark berries, woodsmoke and dried flowers. Deeply pitched but lively black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors coat the palate and pick up spiciness with air. Finishes lush and smooth, with echoing notes of dark berries and flowers. This suave wine is drinking well now but has the stuffing to age. 90 2009 Chardonnay Double L Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($36) Bright gold. Oak-spiced pear and nectarine on the nose, with smoke and spice notes adding complexity. A rich, potent chardonnay that offers creamy pit fruit and honey flavors and a strong suggestion of vanillin oak. A touch of bitter lemon pith adds lift to a long, broad, smoky finish. Fans of large-scaled chardonnay will find my score low. 88

Nagy Wines 2010 Viognier Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($20) Green-tinged yellow. Highly fragrant, spice-accented aromas of citrus fruits, apple and nectarine. Fresh and light on its feet, with good depth to its floral honey, orange and orchard fruit flavors. In a delicate style for the variety, this viognier finishes with very good cut and length. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Garey Ranch Santa Maria Valley ($35) Bright ruby. Powerful, deep cherry and blackberry aromas are rather brooding for a pinot noir. Then broad and spicy in the mouth, offering palatecoating cherry and dark berry flavors enlivened by peppery spices and a note of candied rose. Shows very good intensity on the finish, which echoes the floral and spice notes. 90

Native 9 2009 Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($64) Ruby-red. Alluring aromas of raspberry, licorice pastille and incense, with a suave floral quality adding complexity. Fleshy flavors of sweet red berries and candied flowers are impressively concentrated but show surprising vivacity and focus. The lush, palate-staining fruit is given shape by silky tannins, which fold into the fruit on the back end. Gains a floral quality on the finish, where the sweet berry and spice notes carry through. 93

Next of Kyn 2008 Syrah No. 2 Cumulus Vineyard California (includes 13.5% grenache and 4.5% roussanne): Glass-staining purple. Hypnotic, intensely perfumed scents of fresh red and dark berries, fruitcake, cola and patchouli, with sexy floral and Indian spices notes gaining power with air. Lush, creamy and expansive, boasting superb precision to its raspberry and mulberry flavors. Closes on a sweet floral pastille note, with excellent focus and sweet persistence. This wine is sold only as a package: three bottles and one magnum for $1,100. 94

Niner Wine Estates 2010 Grenache Blanc Heart Hill Vineyard Paso Robles ($22) Light gold. Fresh peach on the fragrant nose, with notes of orange zest and spices adding complexity. Juicy and focused, offering fresh citrus and pit fruit flavors and a hint of smokiness. This wine could pass for a viognier. Finishes broad and a touch dry, with good spicy cut and a lingering citrus note. 88 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Boot Jack Ranch Paso Robles ($17) Light yellow. Spicy citrus and green apple aromas are underscored by tangy minerals. Nervy and tightly focused, with lively citrus fruit flavors, good clarity and zesty mineral snap. Finishes clean and brisk, if a bit hard-edged. 87 2008 Twisted Spur Paso Robles ($28) (54% syrah, 31% cabernet franc, 11% petite sirah and 4% petit verdot): Deep ruby. Aromas of cassis and woodsmoke, plus a whiff of violet. Supple, rich and broad, with slightly loose-knit, smoky flavors of blackcurrant and dark chocolate. Chewy tannins add shape to the finish of this full, ripe blend. 88

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2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Boot Jack Ranch Paso Robles ($28) Full ruby. Smoky aromas of red berries, dark chocolate, licorice and mint. Dense and chewy, with blackcurrant, bitter chocolate and tobacco flavors complicated by black pepper and woodsmoke. Dry yet pliant, with dusty, substantial tannins adding grip to the finish. 88 2006 Fog Catcher Red Paso Robles ($58) (70% cabernet sauvignon, 21% cabernet franc and 9% merlot): Dark ruby. Cherry and sexy oak spices on the nose, with notes of potpourri and herbs adding complexity. Smoky cherry and redcurrant flavors are given shape by fine-grained tannins and enlivened by tangy acidity. Gains sweetness with air, picking up notes of allspice and candied rose that carry through the smoky finish. Drinks well now but this wine has the depth and balance to age gracefully. 91

Other wines tasted: 2007 Syrah Bootjack Ranch Paso Robles.

Ortman Family Vineyards 2009 Sangiovese O2 Series Paso Robles ($20) Medium red. Fresh red berries and flowers on the aromatic nose. Bright and racy, with good cut to its redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors. A bit skinny on the dry, focused finish, which echoes the floral note. 87

Pali Wine Co. Winemaker Aaron Walker 2010 Pinot Noir Summit Sta. Rita Hills ($29) Bright violet. Smoky, perfumed bouquet of black raspberry, spicecake, dried flowers and musky herbs. Juicy dark berry flavors show good clarity and velvety texture. Pliant, sappy and sweet on the spicy finish, with the black raspberry note repeating. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Huntington Santa Barbara County ($19) Light, bright red. Strawberry and redcurrant on the fragrant, spice-accented nose. A refreshingly bitter and focused midweight displaying nicely focused red fruit flavors no excess weight. The redcurrant note carries through to the firm finish. This is extremely easy to drink and would be a great foil for ribs or slow-cooked brisket. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Ruby-red. Cherry and dark berries on the pungent, smoky nose. Oak spice notes come up with air, adding complexity to sappy dark fruit flavors. Leaves notes of cherry, cola and vanilla behind on the very long, juicy, sweet finish. Give this a little air, or hold off on opening it for a few more years. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($48) Ruby-red. Pungent aromas of cherry pit, black raspberry and herbs, with sexy oak spice and floral qualities gaining strength with air. Juicy, precise red and dark berry flavors gain flesh and heft with air. Finishes spicy and long, with resonating spice and blackberry notes. This suave wine is already delicious. 91 2008 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($44) Bright ruby-red. Explosively perfumed nose offers dark berries, cherry-cola, anise and lavender, plus a smoky overtone. Full and expansive but energetic, with juicy cherry and black raspberry flavors complicated by a late note of black tea. Tannins build with air and linger with impressive intensity and length. Give this wine a little air or some more bottle age. 91 2008 Temescal Monterey County ($29) (73% grenache and 27% mourvedre): Bright ruby-red. Lively raspberry and cassis aromas are complemented by smoky herbs and a touch of vanilla. Juicy and broad, displaying slightly jammy red and dark berry flavors, along with notes of anise and cracked pepper. Supple tannins add shape to the pleasantly juicy, persistent finish. 88

Parrish Family Vineyard 2009 Petite Sirah Road Runner Vineyard Paso Robles ($26) Inky purple. Ripe, liqueur-like aromas of blueberry, blackberry and coal. Lush, spicy dark fruit flavors show good depth and some heat, with a tangy

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note of pepper coming up on the back. Open-knit and seamless wine, with lingering warmth on the berrytinged finish. 87

Also recommended: 2008 GSM P.O. Box I Paso Robles (84). Other wines tasted: 2006 Silken Central Coast.

Pear Valley Vineyard & Winery 2009 Charbono Paso Robles ($25) Opaque ruby. Cherry, licorice, black pepper and herbs on the aromatic nose. Juicy, spicy and moderately dense, with good punch to the cassis, graphite and licorice flavors. Finishes with good breadth, gripping tannins and very good length. 89 2009 Distraction Red Wine Paso Robles ($35) (27% cabernet sauvgnon, 24% each of merlot and malbec, 17% cabernet franc and 8% petit verdot): Glass-staining purple. Cassis and cherry on the oakspiced nose. Big, chewy and broad, with serious depth to its dark fruit and licorice flavors. Dusty tannins add grip to the long, smoky finish. This needs some time to loosen up. 88(+?) 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($25) Dark red. Aromas of cherry and red berries, with hints of black pepper and licorice in the background. A juicy, energetic midweight with good clarity to its slightly tart cherry pit and redcurrant flavors. Finishes slightly clenched but with good cut. 87 2008 Merlot Paso Robles ($19) Deep ruby. Straightforward dark berry aromas and flavors offer good jammy appeal. Not especially complex but this round, supple, easy-drinking wine finishes with good cling. 87 NV Cabernet Franc Belle Fin Fortified Paso Robles ($16) Inky purple. Deeply pitched aromas of blueberry preserves and cherry liqueur, with complicating notes of smoke and licorice and a bit of heat. Broad, chewy dark fruit flavors pick up a cured tobacco nuance with air, with the warm quality repeating in the mouth. Finishes with solid punch and good length, the blueberry note echoing. 88

Also recommended: 2010 Our Daily White Paso Robles (85), 2009 Inspiration Paso Robles (86).

Per Cazo Cellars 2010 Tres Blanc Paso Robles ($27) (45% grenache blanc, 35% roussanne and 20% viognier): Greentinged yellow. Fresh citrus fruit and pear aromas are complemented by dusty herbs. Light-bodied lemonlime and orchard fruit flavors are nicely concentrated, with peach and honey nuances adding depth. The clean finish features good length and a lingering note of sappy pit fruits. 88 2009 Epi Telos Paso Robles ($32) (58% syrah, 27% grenache, 7% zinfandel, 5% petite sirah and 3% mourvedre): Deep ruby. A perfumed, nuanced bouquet evokes blackberry preserves, anise and violet, with slow-mounting spiciness. Juicy and precise, with good depth to its sappy dark berry flavors. Shows no rough edges and finishes with very good clarity and lingering sweetness. 90 2009 Confluent Paso Robles ($40) (60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 10% cabernet franc): Bright ruby. Smoky, oak-spiced scents of cherry, blackcurrant and roasted coffee, along with a subtle floral hint. Round and supple, with red fruit flavors tinged by vanillin oak and peppery spices. Finishes long, smooth and sappy, with firm tannins and persistent spiciness. 90

Pianetta Winery 2008 Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($30) Opaque ruby. Smoky aromas of cherry-vanilla, plum, blackberry and cured tobacco. Dense and pliant on the palate, with intense oak spice tones accenting the dark berry flavors. Finishes spicy and smooth, with notes of blackberry jam and candied licorice. 88

Other wines tasted: 2008 Barbera Paso Robles.

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Pisoni Vineyards & Winery 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($65) Bright ruby-red. Deeply pitched aromas of cherry-cola and dark berries, with a strong kick of fresh flowers. Juicy and broad on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering dense red and dark berry flavors and a late note of bitter chocolate. In a serious style, with strong finishing grip and building sweetness. Jeff Pisoni told me that his fruit showed the most extract ever attained here, "probably the result of four straight years of drought." 90(+?)

Point Concepcion 2009 Chardonnay Caponera Santa Barbara ($20) Green-tinged gold. Highly aromatic bouquet of honeydew, pear and nectarine, with a spicy overtone. Juicy and precise, with good breadth and surprising depth to its melon and pit fruit flavors. Finishes with very good length and lingering melon and spice notes. 89 2009 Pinot Grigio Celestina Santa Barbara County ($18) Pale orange color. Exotic, high-toned bouquet of nectarine, orange zest and dried strawberry. Sappy and pliant on the palate, displaying an intriguing marriage of power and energy to its red fruit and citrus flavors. Finishes smooth and lucid, with good closing bite. Peter Cargasacchi suggests that this intriguing, skin-fermented wine works incredibly well with vegetables, "even artichokes and asparagus." 91 2009 Pinot Noir Salsipuedes Santa Barbara County ($20) Deep red. Ripe red fruits on the nose and in the mouth. Juicy and broad, showing good depth and a velvety texture. Finishes with solid punch and good persistence, leaving a bitter cherry note behind. Quite rich but there's also nice balance here, especially for the money. 89

Pomar Junction 2010 Viognier Paso Robles ($25) Pale yellow. Fresh peach on the nose, with notes of lemon zest and spices adding complexity. Juicy and focused, offering bright citrus and honeysuckle flavors and a hint of white pepper. Finishes with very good spicy cut and a lingering citrus note. 89 2009 Syrah Paso Robles ($36) Opaque violet color. Pungent, oak-spiced nose displays ripe blackberry and cassis, vanilla and smoked meat. Deep, supple, sweet dark fruit flavors show a slightly jammy character that's perked up by black pepper and licorice nuances. This broad, rich wine finishes smooth, long and slightly warm, with a repeating cassis note. 88

Also recommended: 2009 Pinot Noir Paso Robles (86), 2007 Brooster Fighting Red Paso Robles (86). Other wines tasted: 2008 Picnic Chardonnay Paso Robles, 2009 Zinfandel Paso Robles, 2007 Merlot Paso Robles, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles*.

Presqu'ile Winery 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Santa Barbara County ($22) Pale yellow. High-pitched aromas of lime zest, herbs and white pepper. Dry and precise on entry, then shows good depth in the mid-palate. Juicy orchard and citrus fruit flavors offer very good clarity and back-end bite. The lime note repeats on the long, nervy, spice-laced finish. I like this wine's blend of power and vivacity. 90 2009 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley ($35) Light gold. Pear and peach pit on the nose, with notes of dried herbs and honey adding complexity. Fleshy and broad but dry, with good clarity to its orchard fruit and lemon pith flavors. Finishes on a bitter quinine note, with good tangy cut and spicy persistence. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley ($45) Deep, bright red. Intensely perfumed aromas of red berries, cherry skin and spicecake, with a smoky nuance in the background. A juicy, precise midweight whose fresh black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors gain sweetness with air. Fine-grained tannins add grip and shape to the long, sappy finish. Quite suave, and approachable already. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Presqu'Ile Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($55) Bright ruby-red. Seductively perfumed

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scents of red and dark berry preserves, potpourri and medicinal herbs. Sweet and nicely concentrated but light on its feet, offering intense raspberry and mulberry flavors and notes of candied rose and licorice. Clings impressively on the very persistent, floral finish. 92

Qupe 2010 Bien Nacido Cuvee Santa Maria Valley ($20) (50% viognier and 50% chardonnay, all from the Bien Nacido Vineyard): Light gold. Highly perfumed scents of nectarine, pear and orange, with suave honeysuckle and ginger notes adding complexity. Juicy, focused and nervy on entry, picking up flesh and heft in the mid-palate and offering fresh citrus and pit fruit flavors. A plush but refreshingly nervy blend, finishing with strong punch and spiciness. This wine is way too easy to drink, which is by no means a bad thing. 90 2010 Viognier Ibarra Young Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($35) Pale, bright yellow. Restrained and precise on the nose, displaying scents of green apple, lemon zest and white flowers. Dry and nervy on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, displaying good clarity to its tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes clean and tight, with tangy persistence. I'm not sure that I'd have guessed this was viognier. 89 2009 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Reserve Block Eleven Santa Maria Valley ($20) Bright gold. Musky aromas of pear skin, melon and lemon rind, with smoke and honey nuances adding complexity. Deeply pitched orchard fruit flavors display very good intensity and become smokier with air. Stains the palate without betraying any excess weight. The finish is gripping, spicy and very persistent. Shows impressive vivacity for a powerful wine. 91 2009 Roussanne Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Estate Santa Maria Valley ($40) Light, bright gold. Intense aromas of candied pear, quince and anise, with suave floral and ginger qualities adding a vibrant quality. Lush, sappy and focused, displaying energetic orchard fruit flavors complemented by deeper hints of peach pit and marzipan. The pear note carries through on the finish, which clings with impressive tenacity. 91 2009 Grenache Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Edna Valley ($35) Vivid red. Exotically perfumed bouquet of red berry preserves, Asian spices, anise and rose, plus a hint of blood orange; this smells a lot like a pinot noir. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering taut raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a hint of white pepper. The floral quality comes back on the impressively tight, linear finish. No fat on these bones. 90 2009 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($29) Bright purple. Blackberry and cassis scents are complicated by notes of game, black pepper and bitter chocolate. Spicy dark fruit flavors show good concentration and focus, with zesty acidity adding spine. Finishes with good cut, length and lingering spiciness. 89 2009 Syrah Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Edna Valley ($35) Bright violet color. Oak-spiced aromas of dark berries, cherry-pit, olive and black tea, with a smoky overtone. Fleshy and smooth on entry, then more solid in the mid-palate, offering deep bitter cherry and cassis flavors and a touch of licorice. Dusty tannins adds grip to the finish, which echoes the dark fruit and licorice notes. This wine needs some time to open up but the material is promising. 90(+?) 2009 Syrah Sonnie's Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Edna Valley ($55) Bright purple. Intensely perfumed aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, smoky Indian spices and olive, with slow-building florality and a touch of mocha. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors show a strong spicy quality and pick up sweetness with air. Boasts solid grip and serious power on the finish, which lingers with very good tenacity. This extremely unevolved wine needs bottle aging. 91(+?) 2007 Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate Santa Maria Valley ($45) Opaque ruby. A pungent, deeply scented nose displays dark berry preserves, cherry pit, olive and licorice, with hints of spice and woodsmoke in the background. Broad and fleshy, with very good heft to its black and blue fruit flavors. Becomes smokier with air and finishes on a sweet note of blueberry, with very good breadth and persistence. This still seems to be on the young side. 91

Rangeland Wines

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2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Limestone Reserve Adelaida Springs Ranch Paso Robles ($40) Bright ruby. Aromatic nose displays cassis, licorice, pipe tobacco and nutty oak. Juicy and tightly wound, with zesty acidity keeping the flavors of blackcurrant and herbs in check. A sweet and expressive wine, with good energy and finishing grip but no hard edges. 89 2009 Petite Sirah Adelaida Springs Ranch Paso Robles ($30) Inky purple. A complex bouquet evokes black and blue fruits, incense and lavender, plus a smoky overtone. Juicy and expansive, with good depth to its cassis and boysenberry flavors. Fine-grained tannins arrive late and add shape to the long, gently sweet finish. This is quite civilized for the variety. 90

Refugio Ranch Vineyards 2009 Tiradora Santa Ynez Valley ($28) (100% sauvignon blanc): Bright yellow-gold. Pungent lemon, lime and mineral aromas are underscored by white pepper and herbs. Dense, lively citrus and orchard fruit flavors are given a bitter edge by lime zest, and pick up a tarragon note with air. Sweeter melon and nectarine qualities build through the smooth, juicy finish. Plenty of fruit here, but this wine also has the heft to work with rich foods. 89 2009 Ineseno Santa Ynez Valley ($29) (a blend of roussanne and viognier): Bright gold. Ripe pear and tangerine aromas are complicated by notes of honey and white pepper. Broad and fleshy, but there's good energy to its deep orchard and pit fruit flavors. The pear note carries through on the smooth, clinging finish. 89 2008 Barbareno Santa Ynez Valley ($42) (a blend of syrah and petite sirah): Inky ruby. Musky aromas and flavors of dark berries, smoked meat, violet, olive and cracked pepper. Fleshy and creamy but focused, with firm underlying structure; comes off like a northern Rhone wine. Finishes sweet and smoky, with very good persistence. 90

Ridge Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains ($60) Bright yellow. Pungent aromas of pear and peach nectar, with complicating notes of smoky lees and lemon pith. Mineral-accented pit and orchard fruit flavors shows impressive depth and clarity, picking up spiciness and a touch of bitter quinine on the back half. Rich but balanced and fresh, finishing with excellent clarity and persistent spiciness. 93 2009 Zinfandel Lytton Springs Dry Creek Valley ($35) (71% zinfandel, 23% petite sirah and 6% carignane): Opaque purple. Dark berries, cherry compote, licorice and vanilla on the aromatic nose. Ripe and fleshy, with powerful blackberry and bitter cherry flavors showing very good depth and intensity. Turned smokier and sweeter with air, finishing with excellent thrust and length. This really deserves at least a few more years of cellaring and should age slowly and positively for years. 93 2009 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley ($35) (includes 14% alicante bouschet, 4% petite sirah and 2% carignane): Inky ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black and blue fruits, vanilla bean and cola, with floral and spice accents adding complexity and lift. Broad, pliant and juicy in the mouth, offering lush blackberry and mulberry flavors and a hint of cracked pepper. Leaves a spicy note behind on the long, licorice-tinged finish. This is a baby. 91(+?) 2009 Zinfandel York Creek Vineyard Spring Mountain ($30) (includes 7% petite sirah; 15.3% alcohol): Opaque violet color. An intensely perfumed bouquet displays dark berry preserves, cherry-cola, vanilla and woodsmoke. Lush, palate-coating blackberry and boysenberry flavors are complicated by notes of licorice and candied violet. Shows very good intensity on the gently tannic finish, which clings with noteworthy tenacity. 92 2008 Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains ($145) (72% cabernet sauvignon and 28% merlot; 13.3% alcohol): Glass-staining ruby. Powerful, pungent aromas of cherry-vanilla, cassis, candied licorice and graphite, along with a suave floral oil quality that gains strength with air. Deeply pitched dark berry flavors show a liqueur-like intensity, as well as notes of smoky Indian spices, violet and vanilla. Ripe but quite vibrant, wih superb finishing clarity and persistence. This extremely young wine makes the case that high alcohol isn't a prerequisite for intensity or power in California cabernet. 95(+?)

Riverbench Vineyard & Winery

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2010 Chardonnay Bedrock Santa Maria Valley ($24) Bright yellow-gold. Spicy melon and pear aromas show good clarity and a hint of herbs. Tightly wound orchard fruit flavors are lifted by tangy minerality. A bit clipped on the finish, with the melon note repeating. This wine saw no oak. 87 2009 Chardonnay Estate Santa Maria Valley ($26) Bright gold. Deep, intensely perfumed aromas of peach, melon and honey, with slow-building spiciness and a touch of chamomile. Lush and creamy on entry, then firmer in the middle, offering juicy orchard and pit fruit flavors and a kick of white pepper. Finishes smooth and quite long, with repeating melon and peach notes. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Santa Maria Valley ($28) Light, bright red. Musky redcurrant and bitter cherry on the nose and in the mouth. Taut and on the dry side, showing moderate density and slow-mounting spiciness. Finishes with an echo of cherry, a touch of candied rose and decent length. 87 2008 Pinot Noir Mesa Santa Maria Valley ($48) Bright medium red. Cherry, licorice and dried flowers on the nose. Ripe and smoky, with good depth to its dark berry and cherry-cola flavors. A note of vanilla adds sweetness to the finish, which shows a touch of lingering warmth. 88

RN Estate 2010 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($49) Bright ruby-red. Seductive aromas of raspberry and cherry-cola, with sexy oak spice and potpourri qualities adding complexity. Fleshy and deep, with energetic spice and mineral notes adding lift to the red berry flavors. Offers a suave blend of richness and vivacity and finishes with impressive clarity and length. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Kruse Vineyard York Mountain ($48) Deep red. Musky, wild aromas of black raspberry, Asian spices and dried rose. Pliant and seamless in texture, offering a juicy quality and very good, spicy lift to its sweet red fruit flavors. Sexy, savory pinot with no rough edges and very good finishing cling. 90 2008 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard Santa Rita Hills ($49) Ruby-red. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose, with complicating notes of anise and rose. Fleshy and smooth, offering black raspberry and cherry compote flavors and a touch of bitter chocolate. Becomes juicier and brighter with air, finishing with good clarity and lingering sweetness. This wine drinks very well now with some aeration. 90 2009 Malbec Paso Robles ($42) Deep ruby. Ripe dark fruits, underbrush and espresso on the nose. Densely packed and energetic; a distinctly powerful wine with ripe cherry, bitter chocolate and cracked pepper flavors. The long finish features broad, supple tannins that add shape and grip. 90 2008 Symphonie Des Cepages Paso Robles ($48) (59% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot, 14% cabernet franc and 9% petit verdot): Dark ruby. High-toned, aromatic dark berry scents are complicated by cracked pepper and herbs. Deeply pitched cassis and bitter cherry flavors are given spine by tangy acidity and pick up a smoky nuance with air. Dusty tannins lend grip to the firm, slightly chewy finish. Give this some air. 87(+?)

Other wines tasted: 2008 Cuvee des Trois Cepages.

Roxo Port Cellars 2007 Paso Melange Paso Robles ($44) (71% cabernet franc, 22% cabernet sauvignon and 7% petit verdot): Inky purple. Blackberry and blueberry aromas are complicated by sandalwood, clove, dried violet and black pepper. Supple in texture, offering ripe dark berry flavors, gentle spiciness and impressive breadth. This sweet, luscious wine finishes with good persistence and a strong echo of candied blackberry.

89

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2007 Ruby Tradicional Paso Robles ($44) (34% souzao, 25% tinta roriz, 18% touriga nacional, 15% tinta cao and 8% bastardo): Opaque purple. Distinctly high-toned black and blue fruit liqueur aromas are complicated by notes of licorice and espresso. Broad and very sweet, with a supple texture to the rich cassis and blueberry flavors. The blueberry note carries through on the persistent finish, which displays slow-building spiciness. 89 2007 Magia Preta Paso Robles ($75) (a 50/50 blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah): Inky purple. Deeply scented aromas and flavors of overripe red berries and cherry, complicated by exotic spice and floral notes and a touch of cracked pepper. Showing very good energy for a port-styled wine, offering a suave blend of sweetness and vivacity. Finishes sappy, smooth and persistent, with notes of candied red berries and cherry preserves. 90

Rubus 2009 Zinfandel Old Vine Lodi ($19) Bright red. Perfumed bouquet evokes spicy red berries and flowers, along with a subtle herbal quality and a touch of cracked pepper. A juicy, energetic midweight that offers gently sweet redcurrant and raspberry flavors and a touch of orange pith. This elegant, precise wine finishes with good clarity and floral persistence. This style of zin is getting harder to find. 89

Rusack Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay Reserve Santa Maria Valley ($32) Vivid gold. Citrus and orchard fruits on the nose, with hints of chamomile and spicecake adding complexity. Nervy and dry, with refreshingly bitter orange and lemon zest flavors and a late note of poached pear. The citrus note repeats on the firm, dry, linear finish. This wine could use a little time to stretch out. 89(+?) 2009 Chardonnay Santa Catalina Island Vineyards California ($75) (from a two-acre vineyard): Bright gold. Aromas of lemon curd, nectarine and pineapple, with a deeper note of butterscotch in the background. Silky and broad, with sappy flavors of peach and toasted nuts and a distinct saline element. The nectarine and salty qualities repeat on the juicy, brisk finish. All of this project's grapes come from vines planted on Catalina Island, which lies 22 miles off California's coast and was once owned by Alison Rusack's family, the Wrigleys (yes, that Wrigley). The fruit is harvested before sunrise and taken by plane to the Santa Ynez airport, which is roughly ten minutes from the Rusack winery. Two thousand nine was the inaugural vintage. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley ($36) Bright medium red. Sexy, oak-spicy aromas of raspberry preserves and cherry-cola. Densely packed, lively and precise, with juicy red fruit flavors and notes of spicecake and vanilla. Tannins come on late and add grip and shape to the long, appealingly sweet finish. This wine benefits quite a bit from aeration. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve Sta. Rita Hills ($40) (80% of this fruit comes from Kathy Joseph's highly regarded Fiddlestix vineyard and the rest is from the Rio Vista vineyard): Deep red. Sexy raspberry and Asian spices on the nose, with notes of fresh rose and sassafras adding complexity. Sweet, sappy and precise, offering lively red and dark berry preserve flavors and a silky texture. Finishes with very good length and seductively sweet notes of candied raspberry and cherry. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Catalina Island Vineyards California ($85) Deep red. Wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red berries, Asian spices and cracked pepper. Juicy and silky in texture, offering gently sweet black raspberry and allspice flavors and very good back-end cut. Finishes smooth and sappy, with very good clarity and a hint of bitter cherry. 90 2009 Syrah Ballard Canyon Estate Santa Barbara County ($25) Glass-staining purple. Black and blue fruits on the nose and palate, with notes of bitter chocolate and licorice adding complexity. Vibrant and refreshingly brisk on the finish, which leaves notes of apricot pit and violet behind. This seamless wine is complex enough to enjoy right now. 90 2009 Syrah Ballard Canyon Estate Reserve Santa Barbara County ($36) (includes 17% petite sirah): Inky ruby. Fresh blackberry and floral aromas show very good clarity and a strong note of peppery spices. Supple and gently sweet, with strong raspberry and blackberry flavors complemented by a vanilla nuance and firmed by dusty tannins. The finish is broad, spicy and impressively persistent. I'd hold off on opening this syrah for a couple more years but it drinks nicely now with some air. 91 2009 Zinfandel Santa Catalina Island Vineyards California ($65) Bright ruby. High-pitched, spicy

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aromas of raspberry, cherry and fresh rose. Concentrated but not at all heavy, with lively raspberry and bitter cherry flavors complemented by a deeper vanilla nuance. Supple, seamless zinfanel with very good clarity and no excess fat. Finishes with smooth tannins and a lingering cherry note. 90

Sandhi Wines 2010 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($28) (made from grapes grown in the Sanford & Benedict, Bien Nacido and Rita's Crown vineyards): Bright gold. Pear, lemon and toasty lees on the nose, along with notes of iodine and anise. Fleshy, ripe, chewy and deep, with impressive energy to its orchard and citrus fruit flavors. A complex and intense rendition of New World chardonnay, finishing with excellent clarity and mineral-driven persistence. This is a steal. 91 2009 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($28) Light yellow. Tighter and more linear than the 2010 bottling, showing bright citrus and green apple aromas and flavors and a note of candied ginger. Nicely dry, focused chardonnary with strong finishing cut, length and lingering spiciness. Give this wine a bit of air. 90 2009 Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($45) Light, bright gold. Orange zest, pear and white flowers on the fragrant nose, with complicating notes of clove and iodine. Sappy and dense but lithe as well, with emphatic mineral character to the flavors of lemon curd, poached pear and honeysuckle. Shows impressive flavor intensity but there's zero excess fat or weight here. Finishes with intense minerality and very good floral persistence. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Evening Land-Tempest Sta. Rita Hills ($75) Vivid ruby-red. Complex, heady bouquet of black raspberry, fresh flowers and star anise, with white pepper and minerals adding lift. Bright, focused red berry preserve flavors stain the palate, with slow-building floral pastille and gingerbread qualities carrying into the finish. Leaves a sexy floral note behind, along with echoes of sweet red fruits. Lots of power here, but this is wine is ultimately about finesse. 92

Sea Smoke Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir Southing Santa Rita Hills ($52) Deep violet color. Intense, oak-spiced aromas of dark berries, cherry liqueur, potpourri and woodsmoke. Deeply pitched black raspberry and cherry cola flavors show good breadth, surprising vivacity and a silky texture (this has a low pH of 3.3, by the way), with notes of candied lavender and sassafras coming up with aeration. In a ripe but energetic style, finishing with very good cling and lingering spiciness. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Ten Santa Rita Hills ($80) Opaque ruby. Pungent, expressive bouquet offers dark berry compote, cola, vanilla bean and incense qualities, along with slow-building spiciness and notes of clove and mocha. Lush, palate-coating blackberry and mulberry flavors are lifted by gentle acidity and complicated by notes of spicecake and candied violet. Tannins build with air and carry through a very long, sweet, oak-spicy finish. This is a baby. 92(+?)

Sequana Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands ($32) Bright ruby-red. Assertive perfume of red berries, potpourri and Asian spices, with a hint of smokiness. Juicy and precise, boasting very good clarity to its raspberry and cherry flavors. Shows an attractive floral quality on the long, spicy finish. Pretty suave, and drinking nicely now. 90

Sextant 2010 10knots Paso Robles ($22) (76% viognier, 12% roussanne, 9% marsanne and 3% grenache blanc): Bright yellow. Peach, pear and white flowers on the fragrant nose. Juicy and fresh, offering sappy pit fruit flavors lifted by a tangy lemon zest note. Finishes clean and lucid, leaving spice and honeysuckle

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notes behind. 89

Also recommended: 2008 Holystone Paso Robles (85). Other wines tasted: 2008 Night Watch Paso Robles*, 2007 Kamal Paso Robles.

Sierra Madre Vineyard 2008 Chardonnay Sierra Madre Vineyard Block 210 Clone 15 Santa Maria Valley ($30) Bright gold. Musky aromas of poached pear, honey, vanilla and toasted grain. Rich and broad but energetic, offering juicy orchard fruit flavors and notes of candied lemon and vanilla bean. This hefty, palate-coating wine finishes with lingering smokiness and a hint of bitter lemon rind. 88

Spaceman Vineyards 2008 Moon Duck Proprietary Red Wine Paso Robles ($28) (40% mourvedre, 30% syrah, 20% grenache and 10% tempranillo): Bright violet color. Wild, pungent bouquet of dark berries, dried cherry, sassfras and woodsmoke. Deeply pitched black raspberry and herb flavors show an alluringly sweet quality, with notes of licorice and candied flowers adding complexity. Finishes juicy and precise, with very good length and lingering spiciness. This wine is made by Mark Adams, who has worked with Justin Smith (Saxum) and Cris Cherry (Villa Creek). 90

Stanger Vineyards 2006 Syrah Paso Robles ($47) Deep ruby. Highly perfumed scents of black raspberry, blueberry, licorice and smoky herbs. Lush, sweet dark berry preserve flavors are firmed by silky tannins and lifted by zesty minerality. Rich but energetic syrah, finishing with very good clarity and lingering smokiness. 90

Other wines tasted: 2007 Bench Cuvee Paso Robles*, 2007 Tempranillo Paso Robles, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles.

Star Lane Vineyard 2006 Astral Happy Canyon Of Santa Barbara ($80) (52% cabernet sauvignon, 29% petit verdot and 19% cabernet franc, aged in 100% new Taransaud barrels; 15.1% alcohol): Inky ruby. Brooding cherry and cassis aromas are complicated by vanilla, pipe tobacco, mocha and cola. Densely packed dark fruit flavors unfold slowly, picking up licorice, smoke and succulent herb qualities with air. A weighty, densely packed wine that finishes with resonating spiciness and lingering cassis and cola notes. For such a rich wine this shows surprising vivacity. 92

Still Waters Vineyards 2010 Viognier Paso Robles ($20) Light gold. Exotic aromas of pineapple, apricot and melon, with a subtle floral quality. Fruity and round, offering citrus-accented tropical fruit flavors and a warm quality that gains strength with air. Finishes smooth, with lingering sweetness and a touch of heat. 87 2010 Chardonnay Paso Robles ($20) Light yellow-gold. Vibrant, perfumed nose offers scents of peach, pear and flowers. Firm, juicy orchard fruit flavors are enlivened by a dusty mineral tone, turning smokier with air. Bright peach and pear flavors linger on the fresh, focused finish. 89 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles ($18) Light yellow. Pungent aromas of mint, lemon thyme and lime zest are accented by a gingery nuance. Racy and precise, offering firm, refreshingly bitter citrus fruit flavors and a stony quality. Finishes bright and clean, with good cut but a slight warmth. 88

Also recommended: 2008 Malbec Paso Robles (85). Other wines tasted: 2007 Merlot Paso Robles, 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles.

Stolpman Vineyards 2009 Roussanne L'Avion Santa Ynez Valley ($38) (spent 15 months on its lees): Straw-gold. Sexy leesy scents give a smoky, carnal quality to the aromas of orange blossom, wild mint and botanical herbs.

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A gamey, very dry midweight, in a distinctly Old World style, with plenty of alcoholic weight but fruit currently in the background. Melts into the palate on the aftertaste like a sake. (ST) 90 2010 La Cuadrilla Santa Ynez Valley ($25) (42% syrah, 34% grenache, 22% petit verdot and 2% viognier): Good dark red. Cherry liqueur, raspberry, licorice, peppery spices and menthol on the expressive nose. Juicy and downright gulpable, with light spicy lift and a hint of exotic orange zest lifting the black and red fruit flavors. Tastes lighter than its 14.4% would suggest. The dry, intense finish features fine, light tannins and a distinctly savory quality to the cherry and dark berry flavors. (ST) 90 2008 Sangiovese Estate Grown Santa Ynez Valley ($36) (aged 30 months in neutral French oak): Moderately saturated red-ruby. Perfumed, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, red cherry, minerals, rose petal and Asian spices; rather Chambolle-like. Suave, juicy and seamless; rich but light on its feet, offering captivating red fruit perfume. Very pure, fresh sangiovese, finishing with very even, fine-grained tannins and a burst of maraschino cherry. (ST) 92 2009 La Croce Red Wine Santa Ynez Valley ($66) (a 50/50 blend of sangiovese and syrah, cofermented): Bright ruby-red. Aromas of crushed blackberry, violet and smoked meat. Juicy, supple and sweet, with lovely floral lift giving the wine noteworthy inner-mouth energy. In its richness without weight, this feels more European than New World. Finishes with a fine dusting of firm tannins and complex, lingering notes of meat, spices, flowers and flinty minerals. This distinctive and very successful blend can be enjoyed now, but it also has the spine to age. (ST) 92 2008 Sangio Degli Angeli Red Wine Santa Ynez Valley ($68) (from Stolpman's new high-density planting, using sangiovese clones from Tuscany): Bright, medium ruby-red. Crushed blackberry, minerals and menthol on the rather brooding nose. Then almost shockingly lush and deep on the palate, with compelling sweetness to the black cherry and licorice flavors. Smoky minerality adds another dimension to this round, deep, very rich sangiovese, which is wonderfully full without being at all heavy. (ST) 93 2009 Syrah Estate Grown Santa Ynez Valley ($30) Bright ruby-red. Urgent aromas of crushed blackberry, violet, pepper and Asian spices, with a meaty nuance. At once sweet and savory, with a tactile mouth feel and terrific definition to its flavors of dark berries, spices and smoky minerality. As with most of the current releases from Stolpman, this wine stands out for its mid-palate energy and perfume. Finishes with suave tannins, lovely floral lift and excellent thrust. A compelling value in syrah. (ST) 91 2009 Syrah Originals Estate Santa Ynez Valley ($38) (from Stolpman's older syrah blocks, now 17 years old, according to winemaker Sashi Moorman): Bright ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black cherry, violet and licorice. Brooding and quite primary in the mouth; the least expressive today of this winery's 2009 syrah offerings. The wine's saline impression of density is leavened by good limestone energy. The tannic spine of this rich, layered syrah calls for three or four years of patience. (ST) 92(+?) 2009 Syrah Hilltops Estate Grown Santa Ynez Valley ($48) Bright medium ruby. Scented, highpitched, very pure nose offers blackberry, exotic spices, flinty minerality and a whiff of meat. Densely packed and seamless but also sharply delineated, with a saline, smoky minerality and a bit of oak influence partly hiding the wine's inherent sweetness of fruit. Dry, meaty, classic syrah with a wonderfully chewy, palate-saturating finish. Showed increasing pliancy and nuance as it opened in the glass. (ST) 93(+?) 2009 Angeli Red Wine Santa Ynez Valley ($68) (15.3% alcohol; from the winery's best barrels of syrah): Full medium ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerality, brown spices and Peking smoked duck. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, with superconcentrated, marrowy flavors of dark fruits, spices and minerals. A real essence of syrah, with the sheer verve to keep the alcohol in the deep background. Finishes with palate-staining perfume of crushed black cherry and pepper. I was reminded of La Landonne, but this wine will offer much more early appeal. (ST) 95

Talbott Vineyards

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2009 Chardonnay Kali-Hart Monterey ($19) Vivid yellow. Poached pear, melon and butterscotch on the pungent nose. Ripe and fleshy, with good depth and a bit of heat to its broad orchard and pit fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and gently sweet, leaving notes of sweet butter and honey behind. I'd have liked a bit more vivacity but fans of rich, creamy chardonnay should love this. 88 2009 Chardonnay Logan Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($23) Bright gold. Smoky, lees-accented aromas of pear, melon and white flowers, with building spiciness. A juicy, palate-caressing midweight, with good depth and energy to its orchard fruit and candied citrus flavors. The spicy note comes back on the delineated, persistent finish. 89 2009 Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) Bright gold. Ripe pear and nectarine aromas are complicated by honey, clove and vanilla. Lush and creamy but energetic, offering sappy pit fruit flavors braced by lemon pith and ginger. This smooth chardonnay finishes with very good cling and lingering spiciness, and surprising energy for a rich wine. 91 2009 Chardonnay Cuvee Carlotta Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($52) (50% new French oak; 15.8% alcohol): Bright yellow-gold. Intensely perfumed bouquet of exotic tropical fruits, candied orange, vanilla and marzipan, with a smoky overtone. Lush, expansive pineapple and passion fruit flavors show serious depth and a pliant texture. The vanilla note comes back on the finish, which features notes of toasty lees, honey and bitter citrus pith. This distinctly opulent wine also shows surprising vivacity, but it's not for delicate palates. 92 2009 Chardonnay Diamond T Estate Cuvee Audrey Monterey County ($75) Light, bright gold. Spiceaccented aromas of pit fruits, mango, anise and toasty lees, with a brighter note of lemon pith adding verve. Deep, juicy and penetrating, with powerful tropical and citrus fruit flavors, hints of clove and ginger and a smoky overtone. Shows very good vivacity for a ripe, rich wine (this is carrying 15.1% alcohol), finishing with strong grip and length. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Kali Hart Monterey ($21) Deep red. Black raspberry and cherry on the nose. Ripe and fleshy, with deep dark fruit flavors that coat the palate but could use more vivacity. Finishes broad and persistent, with a slightly loose-knit character. Best served with a light chill. 87 2009 Pinot Noir Logan Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($25) Bright violet color. Pungent scents of black raspberry, smoky minerals, flowers and cracked pepper. Displays brighter red fruits on the palate, with fine-grained tannins adding gentle grip. Shows a smoky quality on the back end, which displays good finishing lift and spicy cut. 89 2009 Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) Medium red. Fragrant aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and peppery spices, with a hint of woodsmoke. Juicy and sweet on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering tangy red berry flavors and a touch of bitter herbs. Shows an appealing jamminess on the finish, with the raspberry and spice notes repeating. This seamless, smooth pinot has the depth to handle richer foods but it's carrying little excess weight. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Cuvee Sarah Case Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($75) Bright ruby-red. Complex bouquet evokes raspberry, cherry pit, vanilla and star anise. Juicy and expansive, with very good depth to its sappy red fruit flavors. Finishes spicy and long, with resonating red berry and oak spice notes. This suave wine drinks very well right now with a little air. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Cuvee Rft Diamond T Vineyard Monterey County ($75) Bright ruby-red. Assertively perfumed scents of raspberry, cherry pit, cola and peppery spices, with a building note of vanilla. Deeply pitched bitter cherry and red berry flavors are given definition and lift by tangy acidity. Finishes with impressive energy and length, the cherry and spice notes repeating. 92

Tangent Winery 2010 Albarino Paragon Vineyard Edna Valley ($17) Pale yellow. Nectarine and orange on the fragrant, spice-accented nose. Juicy, palate-coating pit fruit and melon flavors are given a refreshingly bitter edge by a citrus pith nuance but show slight heat on the back. Finishes with lingering spiciness, a repeating melon note and good length. 88

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2010 Sauvignon Blanc Edna Valley ($13) Pale yellow. Apple and nectarine on the fragrant nose. Juicy and smooth, with a refreshingly bitter edge to the moderately concentrated orchard fruit flavors. Comes up a bit short on the finish but offers good straightforward fruity appeal. 88

Tercero 2010 Gewurztraminer The Outlier Santa Barbara County ($20) Bright straw. Fresh citrus and pit fruit aromas are complicated by subtle floral and white pepper nuances. Juicy and smooth in texture, with good depth to its flavors of orange, nectarine and clove. Finishes with good sappy length and a lingering citrus note. Pretty civilized for the variety. 88 2010 Grenache Blanc Camp Four Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($20) Light, bright yellow. Aromas of nectarine and dried pear, plus a suggestion of orange pith. Juicy, fruit-driven and tightly wound, with firm acidity giving shape and cut to the pit and citrus fruit flavors. The dry finish features good clarity and spicy persistence. 89 2010 Viognier White Hawk Vineyard Santa Barbara County ($20) Pale yellow. Vibrant pear and peach aromas are complemented by notes of white pepper and mace. Sappy and a touch dry on the palate, offering nervy orchard fruit qualities and a hint of bitter citrus pith. Finishes with good focus and bite, leaving a dusty, stony quality behind. 88 2010 Mourvedre Rose Santa Barbara County ($15) Bright pink. Fresh redcurrant and cherry on the nose and palate. Dry and nicely focused, with good tangy lift and a hint of blood orange on the back. The dry fnish shows good cut and lingering spiciness. 88 2008 Gsm Cuvee Christie Santa Barbara ($30) (a blend of 75% grenache and 12.5% each syrah and mourvedre): Bright ruby. Smoky aromas of cherry and singed plum, plus a hint of cured meat. Rich and weighty, with juicy dark berry flavors framed by chewy tannins. The finish repeats the cherry and smoke qualities and leaves notes of licorice and black tea behind. On the wild side and drinking well right now. 88 2008 Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard Santa Barbara ($30) Ruby-red. Fragrant scents of redcurrant, cherry and peppery spice. Sappy and silky in texture, with good depth and clarity to its fresh red fruit flavors. Finishes tangy and precise, with lingering red berry and spice notes. I like this wine's energy and focus. 88 2008 Grenache Larner Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($30) Ruby with a bright rim. Deeper and darker in character than the Watch Hill, offering smoky black raspberry and cherry scents and flavors, with notes of cracked pepper and rose adding vivacity. The lingering, smooth finish is sappy and sweet. 88 2008 Mourvedre Camp Four Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($30) Vivid ruby. Highly fragrant scents of dark berries and licorice, accented by a hint of black pepper. On the palate, there's good breadth to the wine's weighty, vaguely loose-knit cherry and cassis flavors. Finishes smooth and a tad warm. 87 2008 Syrah Larner Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($30) Glass-staining ruby. Smoky blackcurrant and herb aromas are complemented by notes of anise and espresso. Powerful, refreshingly bitter dark fruit flavors show good depth and pick up a dark chocolate note with air. Shows some chewy tannins on the finish, leaving behind a sweet dark berry note. 89 2008 Cuvee Loco Larner Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($30) (a 50/50 blend of grenache and syrah): Bright ruby. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose and palate. Deeply pitched cassis and bitter cherry flavors are lifted by tangy acidity and pick up a candied licorice quality with air. Finishes with very good punch and tannic grip, leaving dark fruit and spice notes behind. 89 2008 Petite Sirah Santa Ynez Valley ($30) Inky purple. Aromas of dark berry and singed plum are complemented by cracked pepper and black tea. Deep and chewy, offering ripe cherry and plum flavors and a late note of bitter chocolate. This is slow to unfold but some promising sweetness emerges on the spice-tinged finish. 88(+?) 2008 The Climb Proprietary Red Santa Barbara ($30) (67% syrah and 33% petite sirah): Opaque

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ruby. Powerful aromas of cherry, singed plum, licorice and mocha, with a smoky overtone. Brighter red fruit and floral qualities on the palate, which offers juicy raspberry and candied cherry flavors and a hint of smoky herbs. Finishes with solid grip and building tannins, leaving sweet berry notes behind. This wine needs some more bottle age. 89(+?)

Tessa Marie Wines 2009 Vermentino Camp 4 Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley ($20) Light gold. Pear, lemon and quinine on the nose, with subtle herb notes adding complexity. Dry and precise, with good clarity to its citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Finishes clean and firm, with lingering bitterness and good length. 88 2007 Sangiovese Santa Barbara County ($26) Bright ruby. Perfumed aromas of redcurrant, cherry, rose and peppery spices. Silky but firm in the mouth, with lively acidity and attractive sweetness. Tart red berry notes linger on the focused, somewhat clipped finish. This is carrying 15.8% alcohol but I don't detect any excess heat. 88 2007 Coquette Santa Barbara County ($36) (70% sangiovese and 30% syrah, all from the Camp 4 vineyard; 15.8% alcohol): Inky ruby. Ripe, powerful aromas of cherry, plum jam and cassis, with musky earth and tobacco qualities. Rich, vanilla-accented cassis and blackberry on the palate, with supple tannins providing structure. Finishes with big, expansive dark berry flavors and a lingering note of dark chocolate. Nothing shy here. 89

Thacher Winery 2009 Viognier Hastings Ranch Vineyard Paso Robles ($26) Light gold. Honey and sweet butter complement aromas of ripe pear and apple, with a subtle quinine note in the background. Chewy, fleshy and dry pear skin and anise flavors show a slight warmth. Finishes smooth and ripe, with good cling and breadth. This is drinking well right now. 87 2008 Zinfandel Paso Robles ($29) Inky ruby. Blackberry, cassis, licorice and a vanilla nuance on the pungent nose. Dense, rich, ripe and full in the mouth; well concentrated, ripely tannic and a bit foursquare but packs a serious punch. The vanilla and blackberry notes repeat on the supple, clinging finish. 90 2007 Syrah Paso Robles ($32) Dark ruby. Aromas of cherry, cassis, licorice and camphor, with a hint of black olive in the background. Dense, smooth and smoky, with bitter cherry, offering good depth to its dark chocolate and clove flavors. Finishes a bit aggressive, with lingering spiciness and good length. 88

Also recommended: 2008 Controlled Chaos Paso Robles (86).

This Is E11even Wines 2006 Red Wine Central Coast ($20) (50% grenache, 25% syrah and the rest cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc): Full ruby. Ripe plum and cassis scents are accented by tobacco and bitter chocolate. Deep dark berry and plum flavors are supple in texture and a bit warm. Cracked pepper and espresso notes linger on the broad, smoky finish. 87

Topanga Vineyards 2009 Grenache Blanc Celadon Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($28) Light gold. Ripe pear and peach aromas are complicated by notes of honey and resinous herbs. Fleshy and smooth but lively, with good clarity to its orchard fruit and bitter citrus flavors. Finishes broad and persistent, leaving a touch of smokiness behind. 89

Tower 15 Winery 2010 Grenache Blanc Paso Robles ($19) Yellow-gold. Musky, pungent aromas of peach pit and orange marmalade, with a suggestion of herbs. Round, fleshy and viscous; quite full in the mouth, with good depth to its pit fruit and anise flavors. Finishes ripe and a bit warm. I like this wine's richness but would

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have liked to see more vivacity. 87 2009 Petite Sirah Paso Robles ($19) Inky purple. Aromas of blackcurrant, candied plum and licorice show a distinctly ripe character. Then sweet and round in the mouth, with black and blue fruit compote, dark chocolate and licorice flavors. This deeply pitched wine possesses good energy and finishes with supple tannins and good smoky persistence. 88

Transcendence 2010 Chardonnay Zotovich Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($34) Light gold. Pear, melon and honey on the nose, with notes of orange zest and anise adding complexity. Smooth and fleshy, with good depth to its ripe melon and orchard fruit flavors. A spicy quality builds with air and adds bite and focus to the sappy, persistent finish. I like this wine's blend of richness and energy. 90

Treana Winery 2009 Marsanne/Viognier Mer Soleil Vineyard Central Coast ($23) (a 50/50 blend of marsanne and viognier): Light gold. Lemon pith, dried pear, peach and a hint of oak spice on the oily, fragrant nose. Ripe, round and generous but with good energy to the flavors of dried pit fruits, candied lemon and marzipan. Sappy, deeply pitched and rich, with very good finishing volume and persistence. This big boy could handle the richest, most buttery poultry or fish dishes. 90 2009 Red Wine Paso Robles ($35) (70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% syrah): Deep ruby. Intense aromas of cherry-cola, woodsmoke and dried flowers, accented by peppery spice. Juicy and focused, with very good clarity to its bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors. Shows impressive vivacity on the finish, which clings with serious spicy tenacity. 91

Trenza Winery 2009 Blanco Edna Valley ($20) (a 50/50 blend of albarino and grenache blanc): Green-tinged yellow. Green apple and lemon zest scents are deepened by beeswax and sweet butter. Dusty, very dry, mediumweight pear and white peach flavors remind me of chenin blanc. Finishes with good cut and length and lingering bitterness. 88 2008 Tinto San Luis Obispo County ($30) (35% syrah, 31% grenache, 22% tempranillo and 12% mourvedre): 22

Tyler Winery Tyler's owner and winemaker, Justin Willett, is a self-described Burgundy fanatic. While he admits that he knows "that it's ridiculous for somebody to try to make an imitation, it isn't wrong to try to learn how to reach for a style." The style that he wants his wines to express is one of "flavor intensity without thickness or too much weight, with the material to age." Willett puts an emphasis on aging his wines because, as he put it, "I'm not in the fresh fruit business. Great wine is complex and if it's just a bunch of jammy fruit, that's not very interesting to me." To achieve his goals he likes to work with cooler vineyards that produce fruit "that's fully mature, flavor-wise, and that can be picked at relatively low Brix levels and with a high pH." It's not so simple to pick just any vineyard early, he told me, "because only certain ones are suited for it. It isn't a recipe that you can apply everywhere, but the western parts of the Sta. Rita Hills, especially, are great for that." 2009 Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley ($36) (made from fruit picked at 23 degrees Brix): Light gold. Pear skin, lemon pith and honeysuckle on the nose, with a bright overtone of

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talc. Taut and nervy on entry, gaining flesh and weight with air and offering flavors of lemon curd, green apple and dusty minerals. Closes brisk and sappy, with very good cut and mineral-driven persistence. 91 2009 Chardonnay Zotovich Family Sta. Rita Hills ($40) Bright yellow-gold. Spicier and higher-pitched than the Bien Nacido bottling, displaying an array of citrus fruit and floral qualities, along with notes of white pepper and ginger. Densely packed and racy on the palate, offering juicy orange, lemon and pear flavors and a touch of honeysuckle. Notes of vanilla and honey add depth to the long, clinging finish. 92 2009 Chardonnay Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($40) Vivid gold. Sexy, intensely perfumed aromas of pear, lemon pith and iodine, with suave floral and spice accents adding complexity. Powerful but lithe citrus and orchard fruit flavors show noteworthy intensity and pick up intense mineral and floral qualities with air. The mineral note repeats on the sharply delineated, long finish. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County ($36) Light, bright red. Inviting aromas of raspberry, candied cherry and Asian spices are lifted by a powerful floral element. Sweet, lush and intense, with a zesty minerality sharpening the pliant, sweet fruit flavors. This very pure, well-delineated pinot finishes sweet and long, with silky tannins, tangy lift and a whiplash of red fruits. An outstanding entry-level wine, aged with only about 5% new oak, according to owner/winemaker Justin Willett. 91 2009 Pinot Noir Presidio Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Medium red. Highly aromatic scents of cherry, blackberry, botanical herbs and rose. Tangy and precise on the palate, offering incisive bitter cherry, anise and floral pastille flavors that gain sweetness with air. Racy red berry flavors linger on the long, spicy finish, which features a touch of candied licorice and noteworthy tension. 92 2009 Pinot Noir Deirberg Block Five Santa Maria Valley ($45) Vivid red. Pungent, mineral-accented raspberry and cherry on the nose and palate. Then sweet and energetic on the palate, with superb clarity to the red fruit and candied rose flavors. Tactile and very precise on the persistent finish, with the floral and raspberry notes echoing. 92 2009 Pinot Noir La Encantada Sta. Rita Hills ($50) Bright ruby-red. Highly fragrant, seductive bouquet evokes candied raspberry, Asian spices, sassafras and potpourri. Sweet, sappy, penetrating red fruit and floral pastille flavors show excellent clarity and vivacity and a subtle note of cola. The floral quality carries through the finish, which is sappy, seamless and very persistent. Justin Willett told me that this fruit was picked at between 21.9 and 23 degrees Brix. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Clos Pepe Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills ($60) Bright ruby-red. Intensely perfumed scents of red and dark berries, incense and allspice, with a sexy floral topnote. The juicy palate shows very good clarity to the sappy black raspberry and cherry flavors. Seamless and silky on the finish, with the red berry and spice notes echoing. Packs a serious punch but carries no excess weight--and delicious right now. 93 2009 Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard N Block Santa Maria Valley ($65) Vivid ruby-red. Fresh dark berry and cherry aromas are complicated by Asian spices, musky herbs and anise. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering sweet blackberry and rose pastille flavors and gaining in weight and chewiness with air. The spicy quality carries through on the finish, which shows excellent clarity and persistence. 92

Verdad 2010 Albarino Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Edna Valley ($22) Light yellow. Complex scents of lemon gelato, nectarine and honey, with a spicy overtone. Juicy, palate-coating citrus and pit fruit flavors are given lift by zesty acidity and become sweeter with air. Tangerine and candied pit fruit notes linger on the smooth, pliant finish. This fruit-driven wine would be great with all sorts of salty and spicy dishes. 89 2009 Tempranillo Santa Ynez Valley ($20) Bright violet. Aromas of cherry and dark berries are complemented by notes of dark chocolate, violet and cured meat, along with a subtle touch of vanilla. Juicy and subtly sweet, offering plush dark fruit flavors that show a touch of back-end warmth. Dusty tannins add grip to the smoky, refreshingly bitter finish. 88 2009 Tempranillo Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Edna Valley ($35) (made from a clone that originated at Pesquera, in Ribera del Duero; includes 8% grenache and 8% syrah): Deep red. Musky red berries,

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cherry and herbs on the nose. A juicy, taut midweight whose lively redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors gain sweetness with air. Notes of candied licorice, smoke and rose linger on the long, sappy, appealingly spicy finish. A less polished version of this variety than the example from Longoria, but there's a wild quality to this wine that I find intriguing. 90

Villa Creek Cellars 2009 Roussanne James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles ($40) Bright yellow. Spicy, high-pitched aromas of lemon pith, pear and quinine, with an herbal nuance that gains power with air. Dry, focused and precise, with powerful orchard fruit flavors and notes of bitter herbs on the back. Finishes with firm grip and impressive length, the herbal note echoing. This will be extremely flexible with food. 91 2010 Garnacha Denner Vineyard Paso Robles ($48) Bright ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes raspberry preserves, cherry, potpourri and Asian spices. Very fresh, with superb clarity to its spicy red fruit and floral pastille flavors. Seamless, sappy and penetrating grenache with excellent finishing cut and spicy persistence. This is still a baby but offers really seductive, immediate appeal. 92 2009 Trovador Central Coast ($50) (a 50/50 blend of syrah and carignane, fermented with 50% whole clusters): Opaque ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of blackberry, olive, violet and smoky Indian spices, with a hint of cracked pepper. Stains the palate with intense red and dark berry flavors, picking up notes of sassafras, candied flowers and anise with air. Fine-grained tannins add shape to the long, sappy finish, which strongly echoes the spice notes. 92 2010 Syrah Bassetti Vineyard San Luis Obispo County ($50) Bright ruby. Extremely fresh and expressive on the nose, offering spice-accented raspberry, cherry and potpourri scents. Sappy and precise on the palate, with strikingly pure red and dark berry flavors that gain sweetness with air. Fine-grained tannins add shape to the very long, vibrant finish. This intensely flavored wine is a baby today and deserves at least a few years of patience. 92(+?) 2009 Mas De Maha Paso Robles ($38) (a blend of 60% tempranillo, 20% grenache and 10% each mourvedre and carignan): Dense, bright ruby. Vibrant, smoke-accented raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by blood orange, allspice and potpourri nuances. Deeply pitched, incisive red and dark berry flavors show an exotic floral pastille quality and are enlivened by juicy acidity. This rich but surprisingly lithe wine finishes with excellent tangy bite and smoky persistence. 92

Villa San-Juliette 2009 Merlot Paso Robles ($15) Bright ruby-red. Straightforward cherry and blackcurrant on the nose and palate. Light and juicy, displaying bitter cherry and dark berry flavors and a supple texture. A cracked pepper note builds on the sappy, clean finish. Not especially complex but very easy to drink. 87 2009 Chorum Paso Robles ($25) (36% syrah, 16% petite sirah, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 12% grenache, 10% petit verdot, 6% alicante bouschet and 5% cabernet franc): Inky ruby. Aromatic nose displays candied blackberry, violet and smoked meat. Dense, ripe and juicy, with peppery dark berry flavors. A distinctly ripe, rich wine with good depth and ripe tannins providing closing grip. 88

Also recommended: 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles (85), 2009 Petite Sirah Paso Robles (85), 2007 Zinfandel Paso Robles (86).

Vina Robles 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Jardine Paso Robles ($14) Light yellow. High-pitched pear and nectarine aromas are complemented by white flowers and honey. Distinctly fruit-driven for the variety, highlighting light-bodied orchard fruit and citrus flavors and showing no herbacity. Finishes clean and focused but just a bit short. 88

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2010 White4 Huerhuero Paso Robles ($16) (29% viognier, 28% verdelho, 27% sauvignon blanc and 16% vermentino): Pale gold. Pure aromas of citrus peel, green apple and nectarine. Dense but bright, with a spicy complexity to its tight lemon and mineral flavors. Finishes with firm, stony grip and a lingering note of bitter peach pit. I like this wine's tension. 89 2009 Red4 Huerhuero Paso Robles ($16) (42% petite sirah, 28% grenache, 22% syrah and 8% mourvedre): Smoke-accented aromas of cherry, cassis and licorice, with a subtle note of black pepper adding lift; smells a lot like a northern Rhone wine. Juicy, penetrating dark berry flavors show a slight bitterness and good clarity. Finishes dry and smoky, with good cut, leaving a tangy cherry pit note behind. 88 2008 Signature Paso Robles ($39) (83% petit verdot, 15% petite sirah and 2% cabernet sauvignon): Bright purple. Explosively perfumed, alluring aromas of candied dark berries, sandalwood, anise and Indian spices. Broad and spicy in the mouth, with very good depth to its cherry-cola and blackcurrant flavors. There's something northern Rhone-like about this but there's zero syrah here. Spicy and impressively long on the finish, with the cola and anise notes echoing. 91 2009 Petite Sirah Jardine Vineyard Paso Robles ($26) Glass-staining purple. Exotic perfume of blackberry, blueberry, star anise, violet and musky herbs. Sweet and velvety, offering vivid dark berry flavors accented by floral and cracked pepper qualities. Gains weight and power with air but maintains an energetic personality, finishing with very good clarity and spicy persistence. 90

Vines on the Marycrest 2009 My Generation Paso Robles ($29) (47% zinfandel, 29% syrah and 12% each of mourvedre and petite sirah): Deep ruby. Aromas of cassis and woodsmoke, plus a touch of licorice. Supple, rich and broad, with smoky flavors of dark berries and cola. Not complex but ripe, sappy and focused. Finishes with gentle tannic grip and a lingering note of sweet dark fruit. 87 2009 Mourvedre Paso Robles ($29) Bright ruby-red. Lively redcurrant and cherry on the nose, with a spicy quality adding complexity. Firm, vibrant cherry and cassis flavors are slow to open, with juicy acidity adding clarity and lift. Aeration brings out sweeter blackberry and mocha notes that linger on the persistent finish. 90

Westberg Cellars 2009 Zinfandel La Paz Vineyard Paso Robles ($22) Vivid ruby. High-pitched aromas and flavors of redcurrant and cherry, with white pepper and floral notes adding complexity. Fresh and precise, with very good back-end lift and cut. Distinctly lively for a Paso Robles zin, with the balance to age. 90 2009 Zinfandel Estate Paso Robles ($30) Bright ruby. Spicy red berries, cherry and anise on the nose, with a subtle smoky quality building with aeration. Lively red fruits and candied flowers on entry give way to deeper cherry and black raspberry in the middle. Shows good spicy energy and closes on a nervy note, with clinging red fruits. 90 2008 Turtle Rock Willows Cuvee Paso Robles ($24) (48% grenache, 35% syrah and 17% mourvedre): Bright red. Fresh redcurrant and cherry on the nose, with a spicy gingerbread quality adding complexity. Firm cherry and spice flavors are slow to open, with fine-grained tannins adding shape and grip. Aeration brings out a touch of blueberry, which carries through a spicy if rather unyielding finish. 88

Westside Red NV Lot 2 Troublemaker Paso Robles ($18) (73% syrah, 12% grenache, 8% petite sirah and 7% mourvedre, from the 2009 and 2008 vintages): Deep ruby. Aromas of blueberry, licorice and cherry-cola.

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Juicy, pliant and sweet, with moderate depth to its black and blue fruit flavors. The licorice note carries through the slightly bitter finish, which features fine-grained tannins and lingering smokiness. 87

Wild Horse Winery 2009 Merlot Paso Robles ($17) (includes 7% cabernet sauvignon): Bright ruby. Uncomplicated aromas of raspberry and cherry. Spicy red berry flavors show a jammy quality and no rough edges. A bit lean on the back end but finishes with a light touch and lingering sweetness. 87 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($20) (includes 6% merlot and 2% malbec): Vivid ruby-red. Floral-accented aromas of cherry and blackberry, with a spicy quality gaining strength with aeration. Juicy and precise, with gently sweet red fruit flavors supported by a good spine of acidity. The floral note repeats on the finish, which shows modest persistence but good verve. 88

Windward Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir Monopole Select Paso Robles ($38) Medium red. Sexy, understated aromas of raspberry, cherry and candied rose, with a spicy overtone. Suave and seamless on the palate, with good depth to its red fruit and spice flavors. Gentle tannins add grip to the long, spicy, focused finish. No way that I'd have guessed this wine came from a warm area. 91

Wrath Wines 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Ex Anima Monterey ($19) Pale straw. Peppery herb and lemon-lime scents on the nose, along with notes of fresh-cut grass and jalapeno. Taut and dry in the mouth, with energetic flavors of citrus zest, green apple and habanero pepper. Finishes slightly tart and peppery. 87 2010 Chardonnay Ex Anima Monterey ($23) Pale yellow. Pear and honeydew aromas are lifted and sharpened by notes of lemon zest and ginger. Spicy and silky in texture, offering juicy orchard fruit and melon flavors and showing no rough edges. Finishes smooth and gently sweet, with very good clarity and cling. 89 2009 Chardonnay Fermata Monterey ($35) Bright yellow-gold. Musky pear and peach pit aromas are complicated by notes of sweet butter and marzipan. Broad and fleshy, with good depth and a slight touch of heat to its ripe orchard fruit flavors. Finishes broad and slightly sweet, with a hint of bitter herbs. 87 2009 Pinot Noir Ex Anima Monterey ($29) Light, bright red. Redcurrant, strawberry and rhubarb aromas and flavors show good clarity and freshness. Initially juicy and broad, then tighter and a bit dry on the back end, which shows a refreshingly bitter quality and a hint of white pepper. 88 2009 Pinot Noir Ex Vite Monterey ($38) (fermented with two-thirds whole clusters and aged in neutral oak): Light red. Aromas of red berries, rose, cinnamon and allspice. The stem character is on full display here. Light-bodied and dry, with good clarity to its redcurrant, cherry and gingerbread flavors. Shows a slight sweetness and warmth on the finish, which is broad and somewhat loose-knit. This wine's pH is reportedly a very high 4.0. 87 2009 Pinot Noir San Saba Vineyard Monterey ($49) (20% whole clusters; 55% new oak): Medium red. Highly perfumed aromas of red and dark berries, Asian spices and vanilla. Lush, sappy and energetic, offering gently sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors complicated by suave rose pastille and baking spice qualities. Finishes silky and long, with lingering spiciness and good cut. 90 2009 Pinot Noir Mcintyre Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($49) Vivid red. Smoky red berry and cherry aromas are complicated by vanillin oak and allspice, plus a hint of candied licorice. Lush and creamy, with sappy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, dusty tannins and a late note of rhubarb. Finishes with building spiciness and impressive persistence, the bitter rhubarb quality echoing. 90

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2009 Pinot Noir Tondre Grapefield Santa Lucia Highlands ($49) Bright ruby-red. Intense, highly perfumed aromas of red and dark berry preserves, vanilla, allspice and cola, with a smoky overtone. Supple, appealingly sweet raspberry and cherry compote flavors show very good intensity, picking up notes of licorice and candied flowers with air. The sweet, gently tannic finish repeats the cherry note and clings with impressive tenacity. 91 2009 Syrah Ex Anima Monterey ($25) Dark ruby. Cherry, cassis and olive on the nose and in the mouth. Broad and palate-coating but loose-knit, with no obvious tannins and a touch of licorice on the back end. Finishes on a smoky note, with lingering olive and cassis qualities. Shows textbook syrah aromas and flavors but I'd have liked some more vivacity. 88 2009 Syrah Cerberus Monterey ($39) Glass-staining violet. Aromas of cherry and blackcurrant, with complicating notes of Indian spices, woodsmoke and olive. Much more animated than the Ex Anima, offering juicy dark berry flavors that show very good intensity and mounting spiciness. Finishes on a palate-numbing note of cracked pepper, with resonating dark fruit notes and impressive cling. 90 2009 Syrah Fairview Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands ($39) Inky purple. Intense aromas of dark berry preserves, olive tapenade, violet and cracked pepper. Sappy, palate-staining blackberry and mulberry flavors are complicated by notes of licorice and bitter chocolate, with a smoky nuance in the background. Finishes with good clarity and a suave lingering touch of candied flowers. 90

Zaca Mesa Winery 2008 Syrah Santa Ynez Valley ($25) Dark purple. Aromas and flavors of cassis, black olive and licorice. Fleshy, seamless and subtly sweet. Rich and broad but could a bit more shape and lift. Finishes smooth, with gentle tannins. 88 2006 Z Three Santa Ynez Valley ($42) (49% syrah, 37% mourvedre and 14% gernache): Deep ruby. Smoky, expansive aromas of blackberry, cassis and violet, with a hint of vanilla and a spicy topnote. Ripe and fleshy, with very good depth and energy to its dark fruit and licorice flavors. Lingers nicely on the finish, which echoes the licorice and vanilla notes. 90 2007 Cuvee Z Santa Ynez Valley ($20) (57% grenache, 31% mourvedre and 12% syrah): Cherry, black raspberry and a hint of camphor on the nose. Sappy, gently sweet dark fruit flavors show a jammy quality and are slightly loose on the back. Clings nicely on the finish, with the jammy berry notes repeating. This wine is extremely easy to drink. 88

Other wines tasted: 2007 Roussanne Santa Ynez Valley.

Zenaida Cellars 2009 Wanderlust Paso Robles ($32) (40% grenache, 35% syrah and 25% mourvedre): Deep ruby. Sexy black and blue fruit aromas show good clarity and freshness. Smooth and seamless in texture, with very good depth to its blackberry and mulberry flavors. A spicy note adds bite to the long, sweet finish, which echoes the blackberry note. This is pretty delicious right now. 90 2008 Syrah Hell Block Paso Robles ($27) Inky ruby. Powerful, smoke-accented aromas of cassis, blueberry and cocoa powder. Broad and fleshy, with sweet dark fruit flavors and slow-mounting spiciness. An exotic note of candied violet comes up on the long, sweet finish. There's lots going on here. 90 2008 Zephyr Paso Robles ($32) (60% syrah, 30% zinfandel and 10% viognier): Deep ruby. Vibrant raspberry and cherry aromas, with a high-pitched floral note adding complexity; smells like a ripe pinot. Flavors of fresh cherry, tangy pomegranate and candied rose petal show a firm-edged quality on the back. Finishes energetic and light on its feet, with a deeper blackberry note. 89 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($27) Deep ruby with a bright rim. Oak-spiced aromas of cherry-cola and rose, plus a hint of pipe tobacco. Smooth and sweet on the palate, which offer juicy cherry-vanilla and cassis flavors. On the oaky side but there's a lot of fruit here as well. The cassis note carries through to the spicy, firmly tannic finish. 89

Zocker Winery 2010 Gruner Veltliner Edna Valley ($20) Light yellow. Ripe pear, melon and orange zest aromas are

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11/15/2011

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Page 84 of 84

complemented by honey and floral nuances. Sappy and clinging on the palate, with good depth to its orchard fruit and citrus zest flavors. Lively acidity adds bite to they persistent, herb-tinged finish. An interesting take on the variety and one of the few good ones that I've had the chance to try from outside Austria. 88

Other Recommended Central Coast Wines return to web view(12584331)

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