Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238)
Design Activity 4‐2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251)
Design Activity 4‐3: •Your own design
Skirts The four basic skirt shapes Variations in straight skirts Kinds of pleated skirts
The four basic skirt shapes • Straight skirts • Flared skirts ▫ Wider at the hem, flaring from a slim waist)
• Pegged skirts ▫ Tapered at the hem
• Circular (very flared)
Straight skirts • The side seams of a straight skirt are aligned with the straight grain of the fabric • The cross‐grain runs across the hips from side seam to side seam. • Drops is removed with darts or gathers. ▫ Drops (= Difference between the size of the hip and the waist)
Variations of the Straight Skirts • Gored sheath • Gathered skirt
Variations of the Straight Skirts • Pleated skirt ▫ ▫ ▫ ▫
Knife pleat Box pleat Accordion pleat Engineered pleat
Variations of the Straight Skirts • Sheath (basic) ▫ With 4 darts
• Drindl ▫ Can have a minimum amount of ease with a slim silhouette or drop is eased into the waistband.
Flared (Gored) Skirt • Flared skirts ▫ Wider at the hem
• Gored skirts • Trumpet Gore
Variations of the Flared Skirts • Flared skirts ▫ Wider at the hem
• Gored skirts • Trumpet Gore
Pegged (Draped) Skirt • Pegged skirts ▫ Wide hips ▫ Tapered at the hem ▫ Slender look, if tapered slightly.
Variations of the Pegged Skirts • Pegged skirts ▫ Wide hips ▫ Tapered at the hem ▫ Slender look, if tapered slightly.
• Sarong ▫ Popular in late 1940s.
• Harem skirt (= Pouf)
Circular Skirt • Circular skirts ▫ Very wide fabric is required. ▫ Dramatic effect
Variations of the Circular Skirts • Circular skirts ▫ Very wide fabric is required. ▫ Dramatic effect
Bodices • “Bodices” is the part of the garment that covers the body from the waist up. ▫ 2 Front darts ▫ 2 Back darts ▫ A fisheye dart (= double ended dart)
Darts • Darts: ▫ The darts in a bodice make flat fabric fit the 3 D dress form and the human body.
• Multiple‐Darted bodice ▫ Either darts or tucks
• The basic bodice pattern can be manipulated to form many bodice variations.
Gathered and Yoked bodices • Gathered (Eased) bodices • Yoked bodices (Horizontal bodice)
Gored bodices • Gored bodices (Vertical divisions)
Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238)
Design Activity 4‐2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251)
Design Activity 4‐3: •Your own design
Sleeves • Sleeves are the primary component of the bodice. • Categories of sleeves ▫ Set‐In Sleeves ▫ Sleeves that are cut in one piece with the bodice or that incorporate part of the bodice into the sleeve.
Set-In sleeve
Sleeve cut in one piece
Sleeves • Set‐In Sleeve
Shoulder seam Front Back Balance point Cap Balance point (1 notch) (2 notches) Underarm seam Elbow dart
Wrist
Set‐In Sleeves
• Raised armhole • Lowered armhole seam • Dropped under armscye seam.
Set‐In Sleeves • Bishop sleeve • Puff sleeve variations
▫ Ease added to any area of the sleeve to achieve different effects.
Bishop sleeve Puff sleeves
Set‐In Sleeves • Padded Sleeves ▫ Dramatically change the silhouette of the garment by lifting the shoulder and sleeve area ▫ Set‐In sleeve padded with a wedge‐shaped pad. ▫ Dolman padded with a rounded pad.
Sleeves Incorporating Part of the Bodice • Raglan Sleeve ▫ Separate from the bodice and has an underarm seam
Sleeves Incorporating Part of the Bodice • Kimono and Dolman Sleeves ▫ Cut in one piece with the bodice, or they incorporate part of the bodice into the sleeve.
Sleeve lengths Cap sleeve Short sleeve ¾ sleeve Elbow wrist sleeve
Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants (pp. 234~238)
Design Activity 4‐2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline (pp. 246~248, pp. 250~251)
Design Activity 4‐3: •Your own design
Classic Top Styling
Cossack, Shirt dress, Top tank, Surplice
Peasant,
Halter,
Bolero, Bare Midriff
Traditional Dress Construction • Horizontal divisions ▫ ▫ ▫ ▫
Low hipline Natural waist Empire line Shoulder yoke
Traditional Dress Construction • No horizontal divisions ▫ Princess‐line dress ▫ The shift (loose fit) ▫ Tent (= A‐line dress)
Sportswear • Active sportswear ▫ Worn for playing physical sports. ▫ Function is important. ▫ Less influenced by fashion.
• Spectator sportswear ▫ Separates worn for informal occasions that are not sports specific. ▫ A casual life style. ▫ Examples: the denim jeans, cotton shirts of cowboy.
History of Pants and Sportswear • Bloomers in the 1850s ▫ Bicycling pants
• In 1909
▫ Paul Poiret introduced harem pants, separate skirts and blouses.
• World War I
▫ Coco Chanel, Yachting pants in 1920.
• World War II • During the 1960s
▫ Denim jeans and pants were popular.
Various Pants Length
Merchandising Sportswear • Items
▫ Garments sold as separate units.
• Separates
▫ Garments are unusual enough in design to be purchased single. ▫ Generally fit into a group of styles that can be worn together and are made of complementary fabrics.
• Coordinates
▫ A closely developed group of garments, carefully linked by color or detailing.
Sportswear Categories • Junior sportswear
▫ More item oriented. ▫ Less expensive, experiment design.
• Missy sportswear
▫ Tends to be conservative
• Contemporary sportswear (=Bridge)
▫ Less expensive than designer. ▫ More innovated than moderate sportswear. ▫ Examples: Dana Buchman, Ellen Tracy
• Designer
▫ Expensive ▫ Examples: Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren.
Swimwear • Swimwear is produced for 2 seasons a year. ▫ The preview line: Early spring ▫ The primary season: Spring/Summer (Cruise)
• Market research ▫ Analyzing figure types ▫ Working with swimsuit bodies that flatter the figure.
Design Activity 4: Designing Clothing Design Activity 4‐1: Skirts, Dress and Pants Design Activity 4‐2: Sleeves, Collars/Neckline Design Activity 4‐3: •Your own design