Natural solutions for modern formulators Florence Olechowski, R&D Manager Cosmetics April 2014

A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe 07.04.2014

Titel der Präsentation

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Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators 1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process

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Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators 1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process

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Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability Fifty-four percent of the shoppers interviewed consider sustainability to be one of their decision making factors and are „leaning green” (biodegradable products)* Nappy sacks, house and car care products, clothes… A sales argument for cosmetic brands too: - Biodegradable, vegan hair care by “Faith In Nature” - Biodegradable, makeup remover wipes by “La Fresh” - Biodegradable, chemical-free nail polish by “Priti”

*Source: 2009 GMA/Deloitte Green Shopper Study

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability Biodegradability - The silicone problem D4 and D5 are persistent and have the potential to bioaccumulate in aquatic organisms*

Properties in skin care  Inert for the skin  Colorless/odorless  Light feeling, sensory enhancer

*Source: http://www.ec.gc.ca/substances/ese/eng/challenge/batch2/batch2_556-67-2.cfm ii Environment Canada and Health Canada. Screening Assessment for the Challenge: Decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (D5). November

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care  Very quick penetration

 Leaves a pleasant, non- sticky satin feeling  Powdery skin sensation

Clean Label: silicone-free, no compromise in respect of texture. 6

Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care BergaCare FG 5, a synergistic dosage of esters and unsaponifiables, readily biodegradable.

Advantages in skin care  Light feeling, simulates the skin feeling of D5  Nourishes the skin: elasticity and softness

 Transparent liquid, colorless/odorless, with low viscosity

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability – BergaCare FG 5 Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion Phase

A

B

C

Product

INCI Name

%(w/w)

BergaCare FG 5

Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides

6,0

Jojoba Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

0,7

Avocado Oil

Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil

1,3

Montanov 68

Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside

2,5

BergaSom Sun 75H Pioneer 37 P Glycerin Water demineralised Preservative/Fragrance

Hydrogenated Lecithin Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer Glycerin Aqua -

0,8 0,2 1,0 Up to 100 q.s.

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability BergaSoft - modern surfactants BergaSoft SCI 80: Readily biodegradable Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, 78% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 D) BergaSoft SCG 22: Readily biodegradable Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, 83-86% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 B) Advantages of BergaSoft  Mild surfactants  Sulfate-free, EO-free  Derivatives of renewable raw materials  Preservative-free

 Good performances 9

Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability - BergaSofts Base for creamy rinse-off formulation Phase

A

B

Product

INCI Name

% (w/w)

BergaSoft SCG 22

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

5,5

BergaSoft SCI 80

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

17,4

Vegarol 1618 50:50 Palmac 50-18

Cetearyl Alcohol Stearic acid

3,3 5,5

Water demineralised

Aqua

Up to 100

Preservative/Fragrance

-

q.s.

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators

1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process

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Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature  Consumers are now thinking carefully about resources

 The boom of the “green” labels  The global demand for organic personal care was over $7.6 billion in 2012 and is expected to reach $13.2 billion by 2018.*  Even exclusive brands are claiming to be eco-friendly or chemical-free.

* http://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/skincare/Demand-for-Organic-Beauty-to-Grow-to-Over-13-Billion-by-2018-Report-Says-213160491.html 12

Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature BergaCare SB - refined shea butter: Advantages at a glance  Natural emollient

 High percentage of unsaponifiable matter  Controlled production for premium quality  Wide range of applications  Good origin with marketing opportunities BergaCare SB - different forms available to fit the application: crude, refined, organic, high melting point, olein 13

Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature - BergaCare SB Base for body butter containing 15% shea butter Phase

A

B C

Product

INCI Name

% (w/w)

BergaCare SB Avocado Oil Onagra Oil BergaCare EM-14 BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Vegarol 22 BergaBest GS SE BergaCare EM-CP Glyceryl Stearate Citrate BergaMuls HL 50 demin. Water Preservative/Fragrance

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

15,0

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Oenothera Biennis Oil Isopropyl Myristate Caprylic Capric Triglycerides Behenyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate SE Cetyl Palmitate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Lysolecithin Aqua -

6,0 4,0 8,0 6,0 2,0 3,0 4,0 3,0 0,5 up to 100 q.s.

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature BergaScrub - natural alternative to PE/PP beads PE/PP are produced from petrochemical origin Advantages at a glance  Natural, ecologically sound, renewable, non-GMO, readily biodegradable  Different particle sizes available  abrasive as wished  High melting point Competitive  Odorless, colorless  no effect on final formulation  Smooth surface  painless

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature - BergaScrub Base for transparent peeling shower gel Phase

A

Product

INCI Name

% (w/w)

BergaScrub 350 BergaSoft SCG 22

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

1,0

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

8,0

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

6,0

Cocamido Propyl Betaine

Cocamido Propyl Betaine

5,0

Guar Gum

Guar Gum

0,5

Keltrol CG-SFT

Xanthan gum

0,8

demin. Water Preservative/Fragrance

Aqua -

up to 100 q.s.

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin

Phosphatidylcholine (PC)

 12-18% in standard lecithin  BergaSom range: • 50 to 90% PC • Classic or hydrogenated

 Suits every application Chemical structure of phosphatidylcholine

Available as a product of soy or sunflower seeds  non GMO 17

Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin

Advantages at a glance High PC content:

High PC content, hydrogenated :

 Source of linoleic acid

 Protects the skin

 Enhances penetration of active ingredients

 Stabilizes TEWL

 Anticomedogenic

 No oxidation possible

 Conditions the horny layer

 Source of choline  Supports formation of ceramide I Physical features: liposomes, nano-emulsion, lipogel, …

Physical features: lipid membrane structure, liposomes, … 18

Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature - BergaSom Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion Phase

A

B C

Product

INCI Name

%(w/w)

BergaCare FG 5

Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides

6,0

Jojoba Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

0,7

Avocado Oil

Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil

1,3

Montanov 68

Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside

2,5

BergaSom Sun 75H

Hydrogenated Lecithin

0,8

Pioneer 37 P

Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer

0,2

Glycerin Water demineralised Preservative/Fragrance

Glycerin Aqua -

1,0 Up to 100 q.s.

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators 1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process

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Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process  90% of the energy is used for heating the water and oil phases to 75-80°C*  Saves time, since no cooling is needed  Sensitive ingredients can be added earlier  Significantly lower overall carbon footprint for the companies/brands

 Requires special raw materials from fatty phase to emulsifiers

* Russel Cox: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/methodsprocesses/premium-Cold-Processing-of-Emulsions-218867771.html

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin

Advantages at a glance  Highly innovative and exclusive compound  Powerful emulsifying and efficient thickening properties

 Natural, renewable  Can be processed cold but is also heat resistant  Easy to use (wide pH range, no incompatibility even at a high percentage electrolytes or UV filters, all kinds of oil polarities…)  Neutral feeling on the skin for elegant final skin care products 22

Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin

Conditions Realized with approx. 30% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 (caprylic capric triglyceride), 3% BergaMuls ET 1, made up to 100% with distilled water. Brookfield measurement SP 5, 20 rpm

Temperature does not affect the performance of BergaMuls ET 1 23

Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process - BergaMuls ET 1 Base for foot cream with 15% Urea Phase

A

B C

Product

INCI Name

% (w/w)

BergaMuls ET 1

Beta Glucan (and) Pectin

2,4

BergaCare SB

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

4,0

BergaCare EM-16 BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Pionier® NP 37 G demin. Water Glycerin Urea Preservative/Fragrance

Isopropyl Palmitate Caprylic/capric Triglycerides Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer Aqua Glycerin Urea -

4,0 4,0 0,2 67,4 2,3 15,0 q.s.

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin INCI name: Lysolecithin 

Hydrolyzation: mild and natural process  less steric hindrance



2 grades available : BergaMuls HL 25 and 50 Emulsions just after production Standard lecithin (STD) vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50 77% demin. water 25

Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin INCI name: Lysolecithin 

Hydrolyzation: mild and natural process  less steric hindrance



2 grades available : BergaMuls HL 25 and 50 Emulsions after centrifugation Standard lecithin (STD) vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50 77% demin. water 26

Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin INCI name: Lysolecithin Advantages at a glance  High level of hydrolysis  Good emulsification performance

 Efficient wetting properties  Promotes dispersion  Multifunctional  Cold-processable emulsifier

 Emollient for the skin  Usable in spray formulations  Anti-static agent/conditioner for the hair 27

Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process - BergaMuls HL 50 Base for cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners Phase

A

B

C

D

Product

INCI Name

% (w/w)

Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cocamido Propyl Betaine

Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cocamido Propyl Betaine

20,0 8,0

BergaCare SB-RO

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil

1,0

BergaMuls HL 50 Keltrol CG-SFT Glycerin demin. Water Citric Acid NaCl Preservative/Fragrance

Lysolecithin Xanthan gum Glycerin Aqua

1,0 0,3 2,0 up to 100 up to wished pH 0,8 q.s.

Sodium Chloride -

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process BergaCare SB-RO - refined shea olein Advantages at a glance

 Natural liquid emollient  cold-processable  High percentage of unsaponifiable matter  Controlled production for premium quality  Novel applications possible, such as rinse-off formulations  Good origin with marketing opportunities

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process - BergaCare SB-RO Base for hair oil repair Phase

A

Product

INCI Name

% (w/w)

BergaCare FG 5

Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides

25,2

BergaMuls HL 50

Lysolecithin

2,0

BergaCare SB-RO

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil

36,0

Jojoba Oil

Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

5,0

BergaCare EM-14

Isopropyl myristate

16,1

Sunflower Oil

Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

9,2

Abricot Oil Tocopherol acetate Ethanol

Prunus Armeniaca kernel Oil Tocopherol acetate Ethanol

3,0 0,5 3,0

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process BergaSoft SCG 22 - soft sulfate-free surfactant INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Advantages  Liquid surfactant  cold-processable  Based on renewable raw materials  Transparent under certain pH conditions  Contains no preservative  Improves rinsing properties of the finished product  Fresh feeling on the skin  Easy to thicken  High foaming performance 31

Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process - BergaSoft SCG 22 Base for micellar water, cold-processed Phase

Product

INCI Name

% (w/w)

Wasser

Aqua

91,5

Pentylene glycol

1,2 Pentandiol

3,0

Glycerin

Glycerin

2,0

BergaSoft SCG221

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

0,6

BergaCare EM-HE71

PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate

0,9

Glycerin, Water, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

1,0

Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract

Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract (and) Water

1,0

Preservative/Fragrance

-

q.s.

A Noedermyl ®

Suppliers :

2

1 Berg + Schmidt 2 Induchem/Permcos

Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.

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Natural solutions for modern formulators Formulations

 Silicone-free light touch emulsion  Creamy rinse-off formulation  Body butter with 15% Shea Butter  Transparent & Sulfate-free peeling shower gel  Foot cream with 15% Urea  Cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners  Hair Oil repair  Micellar water

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You find us at hall A1, stand 1B60

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Thank you for your attention. Berg + Schmidt Florence Olechowski R&D Manager Cosmetics An der Alster 81 20099 Hamburg Phone: +49( 0)40 284 039-0 [email protected]

www.berg-schmidt.de 07.04.2014

Titel der Präsentation

A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe

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