Guidebook

Moscow music

Moscow as a center of musical culture Folk Music Classical music Operettas and musicals Jazz Estrade Rock music Bard song Museums

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Guidebook

Moscow music

Moscow as a center of musical culture The history of musicallife in Russia’s capital starts from the 12th century, the time when Moscow was founded. Russian folk songs have common roots with those of other Slavic people. They trace back to pre-Christian, pagan rites and they display most varied kinds of genre directions in them: they are either frolicsome, merry-making dance routines, or slow,lyrical songs which used to accompany circle dances, or melodiouslegends sung and spoken to the accompaniment of gusli, an ancient string instrument (a musician called the guslyar placed it on his knees), or others.

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Folk music has notlost its relevance up until today. Folk instrument orchestras still exist, just as folk groups which perform old folk songs using traditional instruments. Also, folk music is often played using modern instruments and with the most up-todate musical arrangement. An integral part of Muscovites’lives in olden times wasliturgical singing as well as ringing of church bells. A special separate place in Russian Orthodox churches called kliros is meant for choristers and gospellers. It is quite common that at the kliros children sing together with adults having better singing voices. It is known that, e.g., the famous Russian general A.V.Suvorov, the great singer F.I.Shaliapin and the well-known

dramatist and author A.P.Chekhov sang at the church kliros as kids. Tsar Peter I also took part in theliturgical singing. Before the 17th century, only church music and folk music existed in Moscow, so it was a slow process when classical music (in our modern interpretation of this idea) started coming to Russia. During the reign of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, the father of Peter I, a theater performance was presented in Russia for the first time and since music was used in it, we may call it opera, even though by a stretch of imagination. A biblical subject was used for it, and the performance lasted ten hours. This piece was directed by Johann Gottfried Gregory (1631 – 1675), a minister and parochial school instructor at the Lutheran church in Moscow. He staged religious and edifying plays together with his pupils. Johann Gregory is considered to be the founder of Russian theater. The first theater building was created at the Tsar’s direction as a “mansion” in the village of Preobrazhenskoye. During the reign of Peter I, public theater was established in Moscow. After Russia’s capital was transferred to St. Petersburg, main musical events started happening over there, but Moscow

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N.I.Argunov Portrait of Praskovia KovalyovaZhemchugova. 1802.

still had its own famous companies. Both foreigners and professional Russian performers played in them. There existed also a number of private theaters in which serfs were performing for their owners. As for thelatter, alove story cannot be but mentioned here: thelove affair which is very well known in Russia— between Count Nikolai Petrovich Sheremetev (1751 – 1809) and his serf actress Praskovia KovalyovaZhemchugova (1768 – 1803). From early on, she was inducted into a group of talented serf children who were prepared for the stage of the count’s serf theater: she studied singing, playing musical instruments and good manners. She was brought up at Kuskovo, at the time Sheremetev’s manor near Moscow. Praskovia’s unique voice was the glory of the theater and it won over favors of the count. In that era it was, however, unthinkable

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that passionate relations between a nobleman and a serf peasant could lead to a church wedding. But in their case,love prevailed: they eventually got married. Alas, their happiness was short: Praskovia was of delicate health, so she died just after childbirth leaving their son Dimitry to the care of her husband, count Nikolai Petrovich Sheremetev. The inconsolable widower wasladen with grief over his tragicloss. He built a hospital for the needy called Strannopriimny dom, a free hospice for the poor. Over many years, this magnificent building has been a great ornament to Moscow, its forms always reminding us of noble and sublime feelings. The Sklifossofsky Emergency Medical Institute islocated there today, one of the best known medical facilities in the country (Metro station Sukharevskaya, Bolshaya Sukharevskaya Square, 3).

Kuskovo and Ostankino, two theatrical manors that were previously owned by the Sheremetevs, are now situated inside Moscow’s borders, so they invite their guests to walk in the old parks, admire their architecture and visit their museums. The Kuskovo summer country house (Metro stations Vykhino and Ryazanskiy Prospekt, ulitsa Yunosti, 2) remains one of the most beautiful estates featuring an exquisite unity of architectural design and thelarge park around the palace. Some museums were opened here, and guided tours are conducted. The ensemble of the Moscow museum-estate Ostankino (Metro stations VDNKh and Alekseyevskaya, ulitsa Ostankinskaya, 5) includes a magnificent palace, an “entertainment garden”, and the church of the Holy Trinity in Ostankino, an architectural monument of thelate 17th century. Butlet us get back to music. Operas featuring only Russianlibrettos were first performed in the second half of the 18th century. It is noteworthy that operas with patriotic themes became especially popular during the war of 1812. It is commonly acknowledged, however, that the first “true” Russian composer was Mikhail Ivanovich Glinka (1804 – 1857) whose oeuvre exerted an enormous influence on all Russian composers that came after him. His opera called “A Life For The Tsar” which recounts the eventsleading up to the heroic sacrifice by a peasant Ivan Susanin became, in fact, the first classical national opera.

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Moscow music

V.Serov Portrait of Fiodor Shaliapin. 1905.

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Since then, after two centuries of its own development, Russian classical music has acquired individual features. Many musical compositions in various genres were created. Russian composers found their own niche in the world’s classical music. Their works are played by orchestras in many countries, and can be heard from the stages of opera theaters around the globe. Let us not forget that the 20th century brought various new kinds of music with it. Beside classical music, different trends in popularlight music emerged, whichlater evolved into jazz and rock music. During the Soviet period, a special genre of “authored”, or “bard music” came into existence: songs performed by their authors, singer-songwriters, also dubbed as “bards”. These performers did not need large halls or expensive and complex music equipment in order to play their songs. They sang their own texts playing their guitar and emphasizing

mostly thelyrics, often of high poetic value. The most known of this genre were Bulat Okudzhava and Vladimir Vysotsky. Their songs quite often had Moscow, their home town, as their main theme. Musical events in Moscow are so varied that it would not be possible to decide which kind of music is heard here more often. Today’s music in Moscow is something that anyone should regard as the best for him- or herself, and each musiclover can find alocation with the kind of music that is closest to his taste. A multitude of clubs, theaters, concert halls, stadiums and outdoor performance stages provide their facilities to performers from many countries playing music of various genres. Every year, dozens of music festivals are held in Moscow, and performers from all corners of the globe come on their tours here. Discover your kind of musical Moscow, and believe us: you will not be disappointed.

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History

Folk Music

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Each country has a musical instrument that symbolizes it for the rest of the world. For Russia, the balalaika is such a symbol, an instrument with three strings and a triangular body. Its name – the balalaika – may indicate a certain degree of flippancy towards it, but if a virtuoso takes this instrument into his hands, it will make everyone happy by producing complex and varied melodies. There are five types of balalaikas in a folk instrument orchestra! The balalaika is popularly used as an accompanying instrument when singing folk songs and the chastushki—folk ditties consisting of fourlines, which are usually full of humor or may have a satirical tinge. The chastushki present certain features of interest as an example of Russian folklore and as a musical creation by the Russian people. These small-scale songs are witty, ingenious, informative and colored with emotion. Their topics are taken from everydaylife: household problems, family,love and at times even politics. They are also sung accompanied by accordion which is not a traditional Russian musical instrument, even though it is very widespread among the Russian people. Other folk instruments include handrattles and smoothers (a smoother is a wooden board with ribbed uneven surface which was used to smooth out newly washedlinen): they are used as rhythmic noise instruments. The rhythm can also be created by the sound of wooden spoons hitting one

against the other: skillful spoon players can even perform solos. Russian wind instruments include the zhaleyka (shepherd’s horn), the kugeekle (a Russian variation of the pan flute) and the reed pipe. These and other instruments, partly specially built for the purpose and partly taken over from household usage, made it possible for the people in the olden times to create melodies rendering a whole range of human emotions: gaiety, mirth, meditative moods, sadness,love yearning. At alater time, it was primarily folk music pieces that inspired composers when they were working on their more complex symphonic or chamber creations. It is no coincidence that the great Russian composer Mikhail Glinka said at some point: “It is our people that creates music and we, composers, can only arrange it…”

Performers Today’s Russian folk music can be subdivided into several categories: folk instrument orchestras, popular folk songs, and folk rock. Folk instrument orchestras usually play at the same venues as classical music performers. In Moscow, it is, for example, 1 the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall (Metro station Mayakovskaya, Triumfalnaya Square, 4/31). The best known of the Moscow groups is the N.P.Ossipov National Academic Folk Instrument Orchestra of the Russian Federation. You willlearn more about this orchestra, its history as well as its planned performances when you go to

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its Internet site: ossipovorchestra.ru. One more group is the Radio and Television Academic Orchestra of Russian Folk Instruments: aorni-vgtrk.ucoz.ru. Folk songs played by this group can be more often heard on radio and in TV programs. The M.E.Pyatnitsky State Academic Russian Folk Choir (see pyatnitsky. ru) is very well known. For over one hundred years, it has been providing an opportunity for itslisteners to get in touch with true folk tradition that this

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group has been preserving with great care and dedication. The Igor Moisseyev State Academic Folk Dance Ensemble is a unique choreographic group that can perform dances of all people around the globe in a highly professional manner. General public knows it very well referring to it as The Igor Moiseyev Ballet (moiseyev.ru). Popular folk music can be heard very often from the stages where concerts by performers of various genres are given. Pop singers, pop groups and or-

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chestraslike to include some folk music into their programs. There are special places in Moscow, however, where one can get to know authentic, boisterous, frolicsome Russian songs. Better known are the groups of this type genre performing at 2 the Russkaya Pesnya [Russian Song] theater under Nadyezhda Babkina (Metro station Krasnye Vorota, Sadovo-Tchernogryazskaya ulitsa, 5/3 Building 2; babkina. ru) and at 3 the Zolotoye Koltso [Golden Ring] National Theater of Folk Music and Song (Metro station Timiry-

azevskaya, Timiryazevskaya ulitsa, 17; golden-ring.ru). A great popularity enjoys 4 the “Romen” Musical and Dramatic Gypsy Theater of Moscow (Metro station Dynamo, Belorusskaya, Leningradskiy Prospekt, 32/2, teatr-romen.ru). Gypsy songs do not need special introduction: this music has conquered the world along time ago. The interest of folk musiclisteners never subsides. The most recent proof to this was successfully presented at the 2012 Eurovision contest by the “Buranovskiye Babushki”, now a world-famous group of grannies from Udmurtiya. Many young musicians use folklore and ethnic music in their performance. Folk rock groupslike “Ivan Kupala”, “Kalinov Most”, and “Melnitsa” (The Windmill) perform quite often at Moscow clubs, just as do the singers like Inna Zhelannaya and Pelageya, and many more.

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Venues If you wish to combinelistening to music and strolling outdoors, the best solution would be going to 5 the Kolomenskoye Reserve Museum (Metro stations Kolomenskaya and Kashir-

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skaya). You can often witness groups of the Gusli players perform under the arches of the Front Gates: they sing ancient folk songs there. All visitors to Kolomenskoye get their unforgettable impressions when they hear the bila group play. You have

never heard of such a musical instrument? No wonder. The bila is a unique invention that can be briefly described as flat bells. Theylooklike metal plates of different sizes arranged in rows on a wooden frame. If you hit the plate with a special stick, a prolonged toll can be heard, not unlike that of regular bells. Hitting several plates creates a very melodic peal. Some specialists have expressed an opinion that back in the old days the bila was used in some villages instead of regular bells. When one or several musicians play the bilas (this happens almost every weekend), the sweet, fairytale sound isliterally infused in the air filling thelisteners’ hearts with happiness and harmony. You may read more about this unique musical instrument and its creator, Mr. Alexander Zhikharev, at bila.dxi.ru. You may not onlylisten to folk music in Moscow, but also “see” it. It is worth a trip to 6 the M.I.Glinka Central Museum of Musical Culture (Metro

station Mayakovskaya, ulitsa Fadeyeva, 4). The name of the renowned Russian composer was given to a very unusual museum featuring old folk instruments that were used by people of various ethnic backgrounds. The soundings of all these exotic musical devices were recorded, so you can hear them, too.

Events Moscow’s musicallife is full of most varied events, and something interesting is certainly happening in the city

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at any given day. But there are annual music festivals which are eagerly awaited and to which music fans flock to Moscow. Some of these festivals have to do with folk music and folk rock. The first on thelist is a new, but very popular festival called “Times and Eras”. In 2012, it was organized only for the second time and even though it is not only a musical festival, alot of music is played there when it happens. This unusual,large-scale event has been created by re-enactors— i.e. those festival participants who painstakingly recreate old ways and everydaylife, behavior patterns and, of course, martial pursuits. Festival guests, both children and adults, may not only be present at special shows andlisten to music of that era, but also participate in games and competitions,

Russkoye Pole” [Russian Field] Transregional Creative Festival of Slavic Arts (рполе.рф) which is poised to become an annual event. Its program includes performances of artistic groups, entertainment, the Chastushki Marathon contest, an attempt at combining all of the professional musicians with all of thelisteners in “thelargest Russian choir ever”, and much more. The “Urozhai” [Harvest] annual music festival happens in Moscow at the very beginning of the fall, during the first September weekend: here, musical groups appear that perform Russian and European folk songs both in their authentic form and in a modern adaptation. Visitors maylisten to the music, watch warrior fights,learn folk dances, try out their hand at folk crafts, taste ethnic cuisines, buy souvenirs and go back home feeling just great.

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and visit workshops for folk crafts—in other words, get completely transported to the Middle Age. This festival is staged during the summer at the Kolomenskoye Reserve Museum. Details related to past festivals as well as news of the theme and the dates for the next festival can be found at the site временаиэпохи.рф. One more festival coinciding with the above event made the day for many of the Kolomenskoye visitors. It is “The

One more summer event is “ShadeLynx Fest”, a folk rock music festival (see fest.shadelynx.com) that was first organized in 2008. It is staged at 7 the Museon Art Park located behind the Central House of Painters (TsDKh) (Metro stations Park Kultury and Oktyabrskaya, Krymski val, 10), withleading music groups of this genre perform there. In the fall, there is another festival called FolkDay and you may find out more about it by visiting folkday.ru. This event brings together top stars of the folk scene, and thus fans of folk rock may see all of their favorite performers in one day. “EtnoPlaneta” (Ethnic Planet) is a festival on its way of becoming a tradition in Moscow: it hosts representatives from Russia and other countries—see etnoplaneta.ru.

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Classical music

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The emergence of classical music in Russia came about at the time when St. Petersburg became the new capital of the Russian state. So it is no wonder that major events of musicallife happened there. It was in St. Petersburg that M.A.Glinka’s “heirs” created their music—all these composers who belonged to the “Mighty Five” circle: M.A. Balakirev (1837 – 1910), A.P. Borodin (1833 – 1887), M. P. Mussorgsky (1839 – 1881), N.A. RimskyKorsakov (1844 – 1908), and others. But it is worth remembering that some composers’ creative work was inseparably connected to Moscow. This was the case, most notably, for the great Russian composer P. I. Tchaikovsky (1840 – 1893) wholived and worked in Moscow for an extended period of time. As opposed to St. Petersburg’s “The Mighty Five” school of Russian music (and disregarding the fact that he had excellent personal relations with all of its members), Tchaikovsky represents the Moscow school of

P. I. Tchaikovsky

Russian classical music. “There is no doubt that had my destiny not pushed me towards Moscow where I stayed for twelve years, I would have never accomplished that which I have done”, the composer used to say. The composer spent hislast years in Klin, a town in Moscow Region, where the P.I.Tchaikovsky State House Museum is open today (Klin, Moscow Region, ulitsa Tchaikovskogo, 18). In Moscow there is one more museum dedicated

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to the composer: 1 an exposition called “Tchaikovsky and Moscow” is open inside the P.I.Tchaikovsky Cultural Center (Metro station Barrikadnaya, Kudrinskaya Square, 46/54). Authentic interior was re-created in several rooms of the Center where some of P.I.Tchaikovsky’s personal belongings are on display. The house is directly connected to the composer: he stayed in an apartment on the second floor for over a year. Many of his compositions were created here. It is impossible to overemphasize the importance of P.I.Tchaikovsky’s artistic legacy for domestic classical music as well as for classical music elsewhere in the world. His most popular creations are the “Swan Lake” and the “Nutcracker” ballets and his operas “Eugene Onegin” and “The Queen of Spades”. The Moscow and the St. Petersburg

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S.V. Rakhmaninov

schools were united in the oeuvre of S.V. Rakhmaninov (1873 – 1943), an outstanding composer, pianist and conductor. He studied in Moscow by S. I. Taneyev, P.I.Tchaikovsky’s favorite pupil, and he also met the great composer. It was Tchaikovsky who gave

the 19-year-old Rakhmaninov highest marks during his examination, the “A+++” – and thus appreciated very much the talent of this student in music composition. S. V. Rakhmaninovleft Russia after the October Revolution, but in his spirit he remained forever one of the most Russian musicians. A 2 monument to S.V. Rakhmaninov stands now in Moscow downtown, at the Strastnoi Boulevard. After 1918, Moscow became the country’s capital again, and thus next generations of composers and musicians havelived and worked mostly here. S.S. Prokofiev (1891 – 1953), the outstanding Russian composer of the 20th century, spent a significant part of his life in Moscow. It is interesting to note that composer’s mother who instilled Prokofiev’slove of music from very early on originated from the serfs of the

S.S.Prokofiev

Sheremetevs whose serf theaters were famous for their high musical perfection of the serf performers. There are two S.S.Prokofiev museums in Moscow. The first one, called The People’s Museum, is open at 3 the S.S.Prokofiev Moscow Music School for Children No.

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F. I. Shaliapin

1; the second one islocated at 3а the house where he used to live and work (Metro stations Teatralnaya and Okhotnyi Ryad, Kamergersky pereulok, 6). Many outstanding composers of the 20th century were connected to Moscow: D. D. Shostakovich (1906 – 1975) lived here from 1943 on; A.I. Khachaturian (1903 – 1978) studied here for over ten years, first at 4 the Gnessin State

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D. D. Shostakovich

Musical College andlater at the Moscow Conservatory; A.G. Schnittke (1934 – 1998) taught for over ten years at the Moscow Conservatory, V. Ya. Shebalin (1902 – 1963) studied and taught at the Moscow Conservatory where helater became a director; R. K. Shchedrin (b. 1932) was born in Russia’s capital. These and many other composers have been creating music that is familiar to all

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generations of Russians. Many of the performers of classical music were also closely associated with Moscow. Thus, Fiodor Shaliapin, one of the most famous operatic singers, lived in the city for along time. 5 The F. I. Shaliapin House Museum was opened in Moscow in 1988 (Novinsky Boulevard, 25). World famous pianist Svyatoslav Rich-

S.Т.Richter

ter (1915 – 1997)lived and worked in Moscow. His 6 Memorial Apartment (Metro stations Pushkinskaya, Tverskaya, and Arbatskaya; ulitsa Bolshaya Bronnaya, 2/6, Apt. 58) belongs to the complex of branches of The Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts. The outstanding violinist David Oistrakh (19908 – 1974) alsolived and worked in Moscow. A special exposi-

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tion highlighting his achievements is on display at 7 the M.I.Glinka Central Museum of Musical Culture (Metro station Mayakovskaya, ulitsa Fadeyeva, 4 Closely connected to Moscow was one more musician that is well known around the world, the violinist and conductor Mstislav Rostropovich (1927 – 2007). His wife Galina Vishnevskaya, herself a celebrated opera singer, opened in 8 Moscow the Galina Vishnevskaya Center for Operatic Singing (Metro stations Kropotkinskaya and Park Kultury, ulitsa Ostozhenka, 25, Building 1; opera-centre.ru). It is intended for advanced training of professional opera singers who already have their education completed, in Russia or abroad. An opera theater is located in the same building. It would not be possible to name

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all those composers, musicians and performers of classical music wholived, worked or gave tours in Moscow, and who are still performing in our wonderful city. Moscow has it all: one-of-thekind tours, premiere performances, festivals and competitions, famous theaters and concert halls. Let us mention some most famous performers and venues where they can be heard.

Performers There are many musical entities and groups of musicians playing classical music. These are bothlarge orchestras, quartets and trios in which highly professional musicians participate. Both Russian and foreignlisteners are familiar with the Tchaikovsky Symphony Orchestra of Moscow Radio (bso.ru) existing since 1930; the Russian State Symphony Cinema Orchestra that first

performed in 1924 (meloman.ru), the State Academic Symphony Orchestra of Russia (the Svetlanov Symphony Orchestra) founded in 1936 (gaso.ru); the Moscow State Symphony Orchestra (MSSO) directed by Pavel Kogan (mssokogan.ru), with its performance history dating back to 1943 ; the Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra (meloman. ru), which was founded in 1951; the Moscow Virtuosi State Chamber Orchestra (mvco.ru), founded in 1979, and many other musical groups. They all undertake world tours, but also perform in Moscow.

Venues Bolshoi Theater 9 The State Academic Bolshoi Theater (Metro stations Teatralnaya and Okhotnyi Ryad, Teatralnaya Square,

1; bolshoi.ru) has become one of our capital’s symbolslong ago. The historical building of the Bolshoi Theater is situated in Moscow’s downtown, close to the Kremlin. It was erected at the end of the 18th century. After the war of 1812, when most of Moscow built of wood had perished in a big fire, the reconstruction of the city was undertaken with the idea of creating a unified architectural ensemble instead of previously spontaneous development. Thus, when this part of town was being reconstructed, a new theater building was erected after the design by A. Mikhailov which was somewhat changed by O. I. Bove. Unfortunately, that building erected by 1825 burned downless than thirty yearslater. Using remaining walls, columns and the portico, architect Alberto Cavos made plans for a new building, and sculptor P.K.

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Klodt recreated the familiar quadriga of Apollo, patron of the arts, on top of the theater. On the whole, the buildinglooks as a harmonious structure, despite the fact that both exterior and interior decorations of the Bolshoi Theater displays a combination of several styles: Empire, Neo-Classicism, and Eclecticism. Bolshoi Theater’s repertory consists of classical pieces: operas and ballets. Only highest-level professional performers continue appearing on its stage.

The State Kremlin Palace One morelocation where pieces from the classical repertory will always be played is 10 the State Kremlin Palace called the Kremlin Palace of Congresses during the Soviet time (kremlinpalace.org). This building cannot boast an ancient heritage, and itlooks very “young” on the premises of the Kremlin where the oldest structures of our capital stand. Its stage is used

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by many performers employing varied kinds of genres, but they all are united in their dedication to the stage and in their high professional standing. This building also has its own ballet dance troupe—the Kremlin Ballet Theater founded in 1990. The main childrens’ event of the year is celebrated in this building during Christmas vacations—the Kremlin Yolka (Christmas tree)

opera and ballet, and even three year old children can get to know some of the world of classical arts due to the wide scope of the theater’s repertory. There are performances in it attuned for all ages, and even adults can have their fun as well, for the immortal mu12

Natalia Sats Theater If you wish to get to know a classical repertory for children, there is no better place for that than 11 The Natalya Sats Musical Theater, formally known as the Moscow State Academic Children’s Music Theater (Metro station Universitet, prospect Vernadskogo, 5; teatr-sats.ru). Everything here is meant for children, and the festive feeling is always present with children once the come inside this theater. Shows are directed by the best stars of

sic by Mozart, Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev, Shostakovich and many other composers will win over anyone while the fairytale plots are always current and instructive. Visiting this theater will make great,long-lasting memories for any child, and this will be undoubtedly an enchanting event.

The Stanislavski and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Academic Music Theatre For over 90 years, 12 the Musical Theater has been enchanting its spectators with brilliant shows (Metro stations Pushkinskaya, Chekhosvskaya and Tverskaya, ulitsa Bolshaya Dmitrovka, 17; stanislavskymusic.ru). It is named after the two greatest reformers of the stage performance who are well known around the globe. One of their main achievements was the change in appreciating an opera as only a musical event. They were trying to combine the highest degree of musical quality in performance with the immediacy of the dramatic play, and that alone has brought musical productions to an entirely new qualitativelevel. It is pertinent to mention in this respect 13 the K.S.Stanislavsky House Museum (Metro stations Pushkinskaya and Tverskaya, Leontievsky side street, 6): its exhibits tell the story of thelife of the world-famous theater director

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and also highlight the theater world of his time. The Onegin Hall of the museum opens its doors for the performances of classical music.

Sad, and Borovitskaya, Bolshaya Nikitskaya ulitsa, 13). Located in a building constructed at the turn of this century, this hall has become the place for the greatest musicians to perform in Moscow. Over 300 concerts are given here during the annual music season, and each of them is a great event for the world of music. Music fans know well the Small Hall, the Rakhmaninov Hall as well as other halls of the Moscow Conservatory. You may find more information about them at mosconsv.ru.

The Tchaikovsky Concert Hall One of the most famous concert halls in Moscow is the main stage of the Moscow Philharmonic Society: 14 the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall (Metro station Mayakovskaya, Triumfalnaya Square, 4/31). Had we tried to give a list of world music celebrities who gave classical music concerts here, it would have been an impossible task. Big music events, world premieres, musical competitions and festivals—they all take place at this celebrated stage. The Moscow Philharmonic Society invites the city’s guests to other concert halls as well. Theirlist and the current repertory are always available at the site of the Moscow Philharmonic Society: meloman.ru.

The Large Hall of the Moscow Conservatory 15 The Large Hall of the Moscow Conservatory features great acoustics (Metro stations Biblioiteka Imeni Lenina, Arbatskaya, Aleksandrovskii

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Pillar Hall of the House of the Unions The oldest concert hall in Moscow is located in a great building of the Noble Assembly erected in the 18th century—at somelater date it was renamed 16 House of the Unions (Metro station Teatralnaya, ulitsa Bolshaya Dmitrovka, 1; domsojuzov.ru). It was mentioned many times in all kinds of literary works, including Eugine Onegin by A.S. Pushkin.

Moscow International House of Music The modern ten-story-high building of 17 the Moscow International House of Music (Metro stations Taganskaya and Paveletskaya, Kosmodamianovskaya embankment, 52, Building 8; mmdm.ru) was built on the embankment of the Moskva River in 2000-2003, and it immediately draws your attention when you see it. There are three concert halls in the arts complex of the House

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of Music (the Svetlanov Hall, Chamber Hall, and Theater Hall) as well as the summer terrace for outdoor music performances, an art gallery, a recording studio, an audio and video complex, a musical instruments showroom, and a restaurant.

Events Any musical year is filled in Moscow with the most interesting events. These are premiere productions and world premieres of musical works, tours, music competitions and festivals. It is, however, important to point out some of the annual festivals that keep drawing the attention of music fans from all around the globe. Russian winter is world famous with its freezing temperatures, so there is a special desire for a festive event at this time of the year, especially since the most favorite andlong awaited, fairytale related holidays arrive: Christmas and the New Year’s eve. The Bolshoi Theater has the traditions of performing The Nutcracker around this time of year. The big Christmas tree is waiting at the Kremlin for the children going to the Yolka Festival, and many theaters and museums organized their own yolka

events as well. The famous “Russkaya Zima” [Russian Winter] Festival happens in December and January (meloman. ru), and the most renowned Russian and foreign guests participate in it. One more widely known musical event is called “December Evenings”, it is held at the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts. It was started at the initiative of the great pianist Svyatoslav Richter, so now the festival carries his name. The unique quality of this event is that musical performances and exhibitions at the museum are united by the same theme. From 2003 on, the Moscow Tchaikovsky Conservatory holds an international music festival called “The Universe of Sound”. Its goal is to foster international ties providing an opportunity for understanding indigenous cultures of different countries. Every year, a festival of symphonic orchestras from around the world is held in Moscow (symphonyfest.ru). Every year unique projects are realized within the framework of this festival, which makes this particular event truly unforgettable. Musicallife in Moscow isliterally suffused with classical music, and the related events are interesting for both children and adults, for specialists and rank-and-file music fans, for Russian guests and foreign tourists. Tickets and subscription programs are available through the ticket offices of theaters and concert halls. You may also buy them at specialized Internet sites.

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Operettas and musicals 1

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The operetta, orlight opera, has many admirers around the globe, and that for a reason. A combination of music, dance and a light, entertaining, comical plot make operetta the best device for raising spirits. Musicals, which musicologists consider to be a more modern variation of the operetta, are also present on stages in Russia. During the Soviet period, musical comedy enjoyed its heyday—and it also is a very close approximation of the musical. After all, is it really important whether a performance is called an operetta, a musical or a rock opera? Spectators enjoy the colorful show performed by highly professional singers and dancers among unique, one-of-a-kind stage sets. Many musicals have become legends. Such shows always get full audiences, and they go on successful world tours.

Many great foreign musicals were translated into the Russianlanguage and staged in Moscow by the effort of Russian performers. There are, however, ownlegendary shows in Russia. First and foremost, it is a famous show called “The Yunona and the Avos” which was staged by Mark Zakharov at the Moscow Leninski Komsomol Theater in 1981—it is known today as 1 the Lenkom Moscow State Theater (Metro station Chekhovskaya, ulitsa Malaya Dmitrovka, 6,lenkom.ru). Despite the fact that songs from this show (music by Aleksei Rybnikov,lyrics by Andrei Voznesenski) became great hits along time ago and were issued in great quantities on vinyl records andlater on on CDs, this rock opera is still sold out every time it is played. One more musical show, quite an unusual one at that, was successfully

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by Yuri Entin) have been so popular that they provided a basis for the musical called The Bremen Town Musicians. You may want to read more about this successful musical at bremenskie.com as well as buy tickets for the show.

Venues time-tested. A musical cartoon film called The Bremen Town Musicians released in 1969 was following the general storyline of the Grimm Brothers’ fairy tale, but the addition of alove story made both children and adults admire it beyond belief; even forty yearslater, this film is still popular with Russian viewers. In 1979, a sequel–In the Footsteps of the Bremen Town Musicians—was made becoming another huge hit. Songs from these two cartoon films (music by Gennadi Gladkov,lyrics

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Many of Moscow’s theaters have musical shows for children and adults in their program. 2 The State Academic Operetta Theater (Metro stations Teatralnaya and Kuznetski Most; Bolshaya Dmitrovka, 6; mosoperetta. ru) is fully dedicated to this genre. This very popular theater has been playing since 1927. Its audiences saw classical works alongside with those of modern Russian composers. Today, this theater is very much filled with the spirit of times. Next to traditional, familiar operettas such big international

successes were staged here as, e.g., “Metro” by Janusz Stokłosa , “NotreDame de Paris” by Riccardo Cocciante, and “Romeo and Juliet” by Gérard Presgurvic. The theater repertory is built up to delight spectators of all generations. A short time ago, in February 2012, the first special 3 Musical Theater was opened (hopefully, the only one such specialized theater in Russia). It is located in the building of thelegendary Gorbushka Electronic Market, at the S.P.Gorbunov House of Culture (Metro station Bagrationovskaya, ulitsa Novozavodskaya, 27). One more stage where spectators may seelegendary musicals islocated at 4 the MDM, or Moscow Youth Palace (Metro station Frunzenskaya, Komsomolski Prospekt, 28; mdmpalace.ru).

A new musical called “The Three Musketeers” is expected to become a huge event combining both music, songs, dance and an ice show. It is to be staged at the premises of the “Luzhniki” House of Sports, and you can see all details and order your tickets at stage-musical.ru.

Events Moscow is the home of “OperettaLand”, the International Competition of Young Operetta Performers. The fifth competition starting at the end of October 2012 is dedicated to the 130th anniversary of Imre Kálmán’s birth date. The Chekhov International Theater Festival (see: chekhovfest.ru) is always a very important theatrical event in Moscow. Its program includes performances and shows of all kinds of genres.

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Moscow music

Guidebook

Jazz

Jazz This genre of music was born in the USA towards the end of the 19th century, and it became very widespread throughout the world by the 1920s. It made its first appearance in the USSR at around the same time. However, the official attitude to jazz during the Soviet period was ambivalent: at some times it was allowed to be played and then it was prohibited. It never enjoyed official Soviet approval, but it still found many fans around the country. Several very popular feature films were made dealing with jazz and jazz musicians. One of them, a musical comedy called “We Came from Jazz”, became very popular with Soviet audiences.

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One of the best known jazz groups in our country is the Oleg Lundstrem State Chamber Orchestra of Jazz Music (its current artistic director is Mr. Boris Frumkin). The orchestra originated in 1934, when Oleg Lundstrem brought together a jazz big band in the town of Harbin (China). It became very popular overnight. Its program included, among others, jazz versions of Russian and Soviet songs. The turning point for the history of this orchestra and for the history of Soviet jazz came when the whole group of these musicians came to stay in the USSR. They werelocated in Kazan, so many orchestra members studied at the Kazan Conservatory. Despite thelack of official recognition for jazz music in

the Soviet Union, this orchestra made its concert appearances, recorded its performances and released LP discs. In November of 1998, this orchestra, a pioneer of Russian jazz, played a concert at the Big Hall of the Moscow Conservatory. It is still popular today. News of its concerts is available at lundstrem-jazz.ru. Many musicians who played at the Oleg Lundstrem orchestra became, at alater

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point, jazz and pop musicians with a career of their own. Among them was Georgi Garanian (1934 – 2010) who was very well known among a wide circle oflisteners as aleader of the Melodiya Jazz Combo. This music group recorded alarge number of solo disks, and it also successfully accompanied many popular Soviet singers when they recorded their songs in music studios. Today, the name of this renowned musician and composer was given to the Georgi Garanian Big Band, a jazz orchestra he created based on his Melodiya Jazz Combo (garanian.ru).

Venues The name of Igor Butman must be mentioned when talking about jazz: this very well-known jazz musician and

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saxophone player is currently theleader of the Moscow Jazz Orchestra (see: igorbutman.com). He also opened two jazz clubs in Moscow (see: butmanclub. ru), where visitors canlisten tolive jazz music. 1 Soyuz Kompositorov [Composers’ Union] has become a very popular jazz club (Metro stations Tverskaya, Teatralnaya, and Okhotnyi Ryad; Bryusov side street 8/10, Building 2; ucclub.ru). Both Russian stars and guests from abroad appear here. If youlikelistening to music in a concert setting, it is better to get subscription tickets for jazz concerts at the Moscow Philharmonic Society (meloman.ru) and 2 the Moscow International House of Music (mmdm. ru).

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Events Moscow hosts several jazz festivals around the year. The most popular is, perhaps, the “Usadba Jazz” [Estate Jazz] International Outdoor Festival (usadba-jazz.ru). The first such festival at the Arkhangelskoye Estate Museum (arkhangelskoe.ru) was organized in 2004. Since then, it became widely known. This is thelargest outdoor jazz festival where jazz fans and musicians of most varied trends in jazz have an opportunity to meet. One more jazz event in summer is the Jazz at the Ermitazh [Hermitage] Garden Moscow International Festival, which is organized towards the end of summer at the renowned Moscow garden called Ermitazh (mosgorsad. ru). And Jazz Triumph International

Festival (jazztriumph.com) is conducted in winter, in February, since 1999.

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Guidebook

Moscow music

Pop music

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TUSHINSKAYA

Pop music is traditionally perceived as light popular music, though there are many performers of pops with beautiful voices, and songs that remainlong in memory. Pop music as a genre emerged during the first half of the 20th century. However, it is very difficult to talk about pop songs in their pure form. For example, the singer-songwriter Alexander Vertinsky, whose work was very popular in Russia and abroad, is considered the ancestor of bard song, Leonid Utesov performed jazz, Muslim Magomayev was an opera singer in addition to pops, Lyubov Orlova and Lyudmila Gurchenko are both known as singers as well as actresses. And there are many more such examples. Large pop concerts, especially charitable ones, or those dedicated to some important events, often showcase rock musicians, bards, as well as opera singers and ballet performers on the same stage. And all this may still be called by the name of pop. In Soviet times, thelevel and quality of popular music have been very high; many of the old songs are still remembered, and modern musicians include them in their repertoire. Presently, the Russian pop music is more diverse than before: artists which were popular in the USSR still continue to perform, while new names appear, expanding the style of pops through the use of modern special effects, which, in turn, raises the entertainmentlevel of shows. People coming to the shows instantly feel the spirit of a celebration. Moscow, as the capital of our country, is the center of the modern Russian

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show business. It hosts thelargest concerts, bringing together music stars, as well as solo concerts, benefit performances, and recitals.

Artists If we talk about the most famous pop singers, those are undoubtedly Alla Pugacheva, Joseph Kobzon, Philip Kirkorov, Sofia Rotaru, Valeriy Leontyev, Lev Leshchenko, Edita Piecha, Christina Orbakaite, Vladimir Presnyakov, Valeria and many others. The younger generation is represented by Dima Bilan, the winner of Eurovision Song Contest in 2008, Vera Brezhneva, graduates of “Fabrika Zvezd” project, such as the group “Korni (Roots)”, Viktoriya Dayneko, Nyusha, Dan Balan, Sergey Lazarev, and others. To see their performance, justlook at the announcements and choose a concert to suit your taste.

Places Solo and combined concerts by popular artists are given on the biggest stages of the capital, such as 1 the State Kremlin Palace, 4 the Variety Theatre, 3 Crocus City Hall, and others.

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Moscow music

Guidebook

Rock music

History

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Upon its appearance around 1950’s in the U.S. and UK, rock music has absorbed many styles and genres, created dozens of subcultural phenomena, and caused alot of controversy. For several generations, it has become a symbol of protest and dissent, of a burning desire to change something. In our country, at the end of thelast century, despite the strong opposition of the Soviet system, rock bands began appearing, too. Granted, they were not allowed to release any records or go on official tours, their songs did not play on TV and radio, but nevertheless, they were known and popular. In the eighties, several public organizations were created, as rock clubs that enabled musicians tolegalize their activities. Leading position had the Leningrad rock club, but Moscow Rock Laboratory which united several groups from the capital, was also well known to musiclovers. Presently, rock musicians have many more opportunities to express themselves creatively. They tour the country, performing at stadiums and clubs, produce CDs, and share their news with fans on the Internet. Many groups added to their texts more melancholy and philosophy, offeringlisteners extra themes for reflection.

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Now, when rock musicians can perform on any grounds, and stars of world

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Guidebook

Moscow music

rock scene regularly come to tour our country, it makes no sense to talk about the Moscow music school as anything special. Especially since albums are often recorded in studios not only in our country but also abroad. And yet there are some groups for whom the theme of Moscow is of a special importance. Very touching songs were dedicated to their hometown by Igor (Garik) Sukachev,leader of the “Brigada S” and “The Untouchables” groups, by Alexander F. Sklyar from “Va-Bank”, by Eugene Havtan, the director andlyricist of “Bravo”, and many others.

Places Rock musicians perform at the same venues as the representatives of other genres, but there are special places

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where preference is given specifically to rock music. These include 1 the “Green Theatre” in Gorky Park (ul. Krimsky Val, 9), the Central House of Artists, clubs such as 2 B2 (ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya, 8), 3 16 tons (ul. Presnensky Val, 6, st. 1), 4 “Tochka” (Leninsky prospekt, 6, st. 7), and others. Schedule of performances can be found on the website or in the specialized press, or heard on “Nashe Radio”, the radio station dedicated to the Russian rock music.

take place in Moscow. For instance, the annual International Festival “Maxidrome” organized by radio “Maximum” is well known to all fans of rock music. Famous rock stars from all around the world come to perform there.

Developments Since any rock festival is alarge-scale event requiring significant scenic areas and places for guests, such events are predominantly held out of town. Still, some of the major events

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Guidebook

Bard song

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Poets singing their songs while accompanying themselves on musical instruments have existed in all countries and at all times. No wonder the name of medieval performers – bards – became associated with contemporary singers performing their own songs. And topics they chose were similar to those of their predecessors; modern bards, too, wrote about honor,loyalty, friendship, and, of course,love. Among their songs were some really funny and humorous ones; at times, their songs became pointedly satirical, boldly expressing criticism of the contemporary regime. A guitar was ubiquitous for authors and performers of their own songs, for it was easy to take it with on a hike, a most frequent place for such songs. Bard song was born in the student community, but it was gradually “growing up” along with its performers andlisteners. Its development was expedited by Bulat Okudzhava, Vladimir Vysotsky, Alexander Galich, Yuri Vizbor, Julij Kim, Sergey and Tatyana Nikitin, Oleg Mityaev, and others. It is worth noting that this genre has existed at the same time not just in the USSR but in other countries as well. Presently, bard song occupies a specific niche in the musicallife of our country. There are bard song contests and festivals; musicians are touring the country, recording discs, etc.

Places Bards perform at various venues, so if you are interested in a particular artist,

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it is best to follow his tour schedule. For those who just want tolisten to the bard song in Moscow, there are clubs where you will always be able tolisten

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to your favorite music, and to find like-minded people. Among them are the 1 bard-cafe “Gnezdo glukharia (Grouse nest)” (metro station “Arbatskaya”; B.Nikitskaya str., 22); 2 Bard club “Alma Mater” (metro station “Taganskaya”; Taganskaya pl. 12), 3 Bard club “Chalet” at club “Kant” (metro station “Nagornaya”, Elec-

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trolitnyj proyezd vl. 7B), 4 Center for Bard Song (CAP) (metro station “Novokuznetskaya”; B.Ovchinnikovsky per., 24, house 5); 5 home of bard song “Respublika Pesni (The Song Republic)” (metro station “VDNKh”, “Botanical Garden” Exhibition Center, Hall 62). And along the Garden Ring, the “Blue Trolley” is running, being not

only a means of transportation, but also a musical tour route (sin-troll.ru). Do not forget that Moscow has monuments dedicated to 6 Bulat Okudzhava (metro station “Smolenskaya”, Arbat Str.), and 7 Vladimir Vysotsky (metro station “Chekhovskaya,” “Trubnaya”, Strastnoy Boulevard). 8 State Cultural Center and Museum of V.S. Vysotsky, the House of Vysotsky on Taganka, is open as well.

Events The most famous festival of the bard song, the Grushinsky festival, is held near Samara. But Moscow also has some events to boast about. For example, the open interregional festival of bard song is held in Moscow since 2002, taking place at the Museum-Reserve “Kolomenskoye» (kolfest.ru).

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Guidebook

List of Concert Halls, Theaters and Clubs for the last page

The Glinka Museum (Glinka Central Museum of Musical Culture) Moscow, ulitsa Fadeyeva, 4 Metro station: Mayakovskaya Ticket offices: +7 (495) 739-39-85 open from 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. www.glinka.museum

“Russkaya Pesnya” Theater Moscow, Sadovo-Tchernogryazskaya ulitsa, 5/9, Building 2 Tickets for all concerts and performances are available at the ticket office of the “Russkaya Pesnya” theater. Phone: +7 (926) 221-72-84 Ticket office opening hours: Tue-Fri from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sat from 12 noon to 4 p.m. www.babkina.ru

“Zolotoe Koltso” Theater Moscow, Timitryazevskaya ulitsa, 17 Metro station: Timitryazevskaya Ticket office: +7 (495) 611-48-00 Ticket office is open from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. www.golden-ring.ru

The “Romen” Musical and Drama Gypsy Theater of Moscow Metro stations: Byelorusskaya, Dynamo Bus stop: “Sovietskaya” Hotel, “Romen” Theater Tickets over the phone: +7 (499) 25185-22, +7 (499) 250-99-80, +7 (495) 614-58-15 Ticket office open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 4 to 9 p.m. www.teatr-romen.ru

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Galina Vishnevskaya Center for Opera Singing (accessible for physically impaired) Moscow, ulitsa Ostozhenka, 25, Building 1 Metro stations: Kropotkinskaya, Park Kultury Theater phone: +7 (495) 637-43-78 www.opera-centre.ru/index

Bolshoi Theater Moscow, Teatralnaya Square, 1 Metro stations: Theatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad Ticket offices: +7 (495) 455-55-55 www.bolshoi.ru

The Kremlin Palace of Congresses Moscow, ulitsa Vozdvizhenka, 1 Ticket offices are open daily from 12.00 noon to 2.30 p.m and from 3.30 to 8.00 p.m. www.kremlinpalace.org

Nataiya Sats Theater Moscow, prospect Vernadskogo, 5 Metro station: Universitet Ticket offices: +7 (495) 930-70-21 www.teatr-sats.ru

Museum office A.B.Goldenveyzera Moscow, st. Tverskaya, 17, Apt. 110 Metro: “Tverskaya”, “Pushkinskaya”, “Chekhovskaya” Phone: +7 (495) 629-29-29 Opening hours: Wednesday from 12.00 to 16.00, tours by appointment www.glinka.museum / about / apartment_museum_goldenweiser Tchaikovsky Museum at Klin Klin, Moscow Region, ulitsa Tchakovskogo, 48 Phone: +7 (496) 245-81-96 Open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (ticket offices open until 5 p.m.), excluding Wednesday, Thursday andlast Monday of the month www.cbook.ru/tchaikovsky

Ostankino Estate Moscow, Pervaya Ostankinskaya ulitsa, 5 Metro stations: VDNH, Telecenter (light metro station) Phone: +7 (495) 683-46-45 Museum is open daily (excluding Mondays and Tuesdays): April to October from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., November to March from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Last Wednesday of the month the museum is closed for cleaning. www.ostankino-museum.ru

S.S. Prokofiev Museum Moscow, Kamergerski pereulok, 6 Metro station: Okhotny Ryad Phone: +7 (495) 692-79-59 Opening hours: Wendesday to Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

S.S. Prokofiev People’s Museum Moscow, Tokmakov pereulok, 8 Metro station: Baumanskaya Phones: +7 (919) 721-01-12, +7 (903) 153-84-76

Kuskovo Estate Moscow, ulitsa Yunosti, 2 Museum opening hours: April 15 to October 14: from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (ticket offices until 5 p.m.) October 15 to April 14: from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (ticket offices until 5 p.m.) For guided tours: +7 (495) 375-31-31 www.kuskovo.ru

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Москва музыкальная

Shalyapin Museum Moscow, Novinski Boulevard, 25 Openning hours: Tuesday – from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday – from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday - from 11.30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday - from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday - from 10 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. The ticket office closes 1 hour prior to the museum’s closing hour. Days off: Monday, Friday. Cleaning day: everylast business day of the month. Phone: +7 (495) 605-62-36, +7 (495) 252-25-30 www.shalyapin-museum.org

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Memorial Apartment of Svyatoslav Richter Moscow, st. Most Bronnaya, d. 2 / 6, Apt. 58 (16th Floor) Memorial Apartment of Svyatoslav Richter takes visitors on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and on the third Saturday of each month, from 12 to 14 hours, with a mandatory pre-recorded. Phone: +7 (495) 695-83-46, +7 (495) 697-72-05 www.sviatoslav-richter.ru