MODEL 32-1000 & 48-1000 OWNER’S MANUAL Congratulations on having bought a quality and well built Superior Water Softener. On a normal installation, your water softener should be connected to all of your plumbing with the exceptions of your kitchen cold side and your outside faucets. The plumbing connection is made by using three valves that are generally located directly above the water softener. These three valves constitute the bypass, which look like the letter “H” when looking at it. In the event that you should have to shut the water off to the water softener due to a leak, continue with the following instructions. TO SHUT THE WATER OFF ON THE SOFTENER 1.) Directly above the water softener are three valves, turn the left and right valves closed by turning the valves in a clockwise direction. 2.) Turn the middle valve open by turning it counter clockwise. The water should now be turned off on the water softener and you should have water to your house. THE SALT AND WATER LEVEL INSIDE THE SALT TANK It is recommended that the salt level not fall more than 3"(inches) below the water level inside the salt tank. The water level inside a round salt tank is generally 1ft to 1 half feet deep. The square salt tanks are generally about half to two thirds full of water. Should the softener run out of salt or you allow the salt level to drop down too far, you may experience hard and/or salty water. To avoid this, we recommend keeping the salt tank full of salt or at least keeping the salt level above the water level at all times. Should you experience salty water coming through your plumbing, the quickest way to flush it out is running the cold water inside your bathtub until the salt is all flushed out. Your water softener will function with any type of salt; however our experience has shown us that fewer problems will occur when using salt pellets. Salt pellets are cleaner, rarely have any debris and they do not have a tendency to form salt bridges as does rock salt. Also rock salt has a tendency to carry more dirt and debris with it, which in turns make your salt tank appear very dirty inside and at times cause it to have a foul odor. However, this dirt will not harm the water softener. OPERATING THE WATER SOFTENER 1.) Plug the timer into electricity and set the time of day by following the instructions on the following page. 2.) Set the timer to regenerate as often as your needs dictates by following the instructions that come with the timer. Generally a family of 2-3 can have the water softener regenerate every 4-6 days, a family of 4-5 every 3 days, a family of 6 every other day, and a family of more than 6 every day regeneration may be needed. 3.) Pour salt into the salt tank. It is recommended that you keep the salt above the water level. On a round salt tank, there should be about 1 foot to 1 ½ feet of water in the salt tank. On any other size tank, the tank is generally half way full of water. 1

4.) Turn the water on, if not yet done, by turning the right & left valves open and closing the middle valve. Note: The middle bypass valve must be closed in order to have soft water. 5.) Should you ever run out of salt or almost run out of it, set the softener to regenerate 3 nights in a row by pushing in all the pins that are located on the lower left hand gear of the timer. After the 3 days have passed, reset the pins to the way they were previous to this. SETTING THE TIMER

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PROBLEM Softener will not regenerate. Drain opens but water does not leave salt tank.

Softener does not draw brine.

Low or inadequate capacity after regeneration. Water chatter at unit during regeneration

Water flows to drain when not regenerating. Salt in lines after regeneration.

TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION A. Bad electrical connection. A. Check electrical connection. B. Broken motor B. Replace motor. C. Broken or stripped gears. C. Replace gears. A. Low inlet water pressure. A. Increase inlet water pressure. B. Broken or torn diaphragm. B. Replace diaphragm. C. Retaining ring missing. C. Add retain ring. D. Foreign material on stem or D. Clean stem and seat on main internal seats. body. E. Drain line kinked or restricted. E. Straighten or unrestrict drain line. A. Plugged injector screen. A. Clean or replace. B. Plugged or worn injector. B. Clean or replace. C. Inadequate backwash. C. Adjust backwash flow rate with backwash adjuster. D. Low inlet water pressure. D. Increase water pressure. E. Broken or plugged brine float E. Clean or replace. F. Kinked or restricted drain line. F. Straighten or unrestrict drain line. A. Plugged injector. A. Clean or replace. B. Plugged injector screen. B. Clean or replace. C. Increase in water consumption. C. Increase frequency of regeneration. D. Insufficient quantity of brine. D. Raise float level on brine valve. E. Ran out of salt at one time. E. Regenerate softener 3 nights in-a-row. A. High backwash rate. A. Adjust backwash flow adjuster B. Low water pressure. B. Increase water pressure. C. Diaphragm spring not properly C. Locate spring on tip of stem assembly. located on stem. D. Restricted drain line. D. Straighten or unrestrict drain line. A. Foreign matter trapped in drain A. Attempt to flush out by putting unit into valve. regeneration or with thumb push down on drain valve and release. B. Drain seat out of adjustment. B. Replace drain assembly. A. Rinse rate to low. A. Change to larger injector disk. B. Excessive brine in salt tank. B. Lower float setting or check for leak on float. C. Insufficient rinse time. C. Increase length of regeneration cycle. A. Torn diaphragm or pinched A. Replace items. outlet gasket.

Valve leaking between body and head assembly or backcap. To much water in brine A. Foreign matter in brine float. tank. B. Loose brine float fittings. No water in brine tank. A. Brine float set to low.

A. Clean or replace brine float. B. Tighten or replace brine float fittings. A. On Round and 15x15 Square salt tanks adjust brine float to allow 1 to 1½ ft. of water. On 11x11 Square salt tanks, set float to approximately fill tank half full.

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WATER FLOW

OUTLET

DRAIN

INLET

OUTLET

DRAIN

Brine Level

SERVICE

INLET

Brine Level

BACKWASH

The backwash cycle position directs water to flow down through the distributor tube and up throught the filter media and to drain. Foreigh material and media fines are flushed from the mineral tank during this cycle to prepare the media for filtering.

The service cycle position directs untreated water to flow down through the filter media in the mineral tank and up through the distributor tube. The water is conditioned when passing through the media.

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BRINE FLOAT A. Used to adjust water level. In round salt tanks, the water level should be anywhere from 1 ft. to 1½ ft. In square tanks, the tank should be ½ to 2/3 full of water. B. Unscrewing this nut allows you enter the chamber where debriscan be easily removed C. Compression fitting. D. John Guest fitting. E & F. Rubber gromets that hold float ball in place on the fiberglass rod.

D. John Guest fitting

E. Rubber gromet A. Used to adjust water level F. Rubber gromet 6" to 8"

Fitting C.

Water enters and leaves from here B. Can be unscrewed to remove debris from inside

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6

ELECTROMECHANICAL POWER HEAD PARTS LIST ITEM

P/N

DESCRIPTION

QTY

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32.

15-76 529-309 525-303 52-308 529-232-1 19-3 529-218 529-212 529-333-1 15-185-10 525-274-1 525-241-2 525-205 15-87 529-245 529-219-3 401-7 185-0221-1 529-286 529-280 15-92-2 15-76 30-77-_* 516-221 15-185-10 14-11 525-260 525-254-2 529-234-_** 529-220-1 28-8-28 28-142-2

Screw Time Dial Spring Washer, (Small) Locating Dial Gear, Time Of Day (12 Day) C-clip Actuator Spindle, Actuator Housing, Power Head Screw, Day Selector Wheel Washer, Day Indicator (12 Day) Day Selector Wheel (12 Day) Spring Washer, (Large) Screw, Head Mount Cycle Cam & Knob Assembly Drain Plunger Assembly Return Spring, Drain Plunger O-ring, Plunger Cap Plunger Cap Retainer, Drain Plunger Screw, Retainer Screw, Timer Motor Timer Motor Return Spring, Main Diaphragm Screw, Ratchet Washer, Ratchet Ratchet Gear, Ratchet (12 Day) Front Cover Rear Cover (Gray) Strain Relief Power Cord (120 Volt)

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

* Indicate Voltage ** Indicate Opaque or Clear

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8

VALVE BODY PARTS LIST ITEM

P/N

DESCRIPTION

QTY

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26 27. 28.

15-88 541-207 541-206 541-325 428-_ 541-221 15-89 413-13 541-254 186-111-N 541-273 19-19 541-243 529-244 541-244 185-024-1 541-204 185-028-12 541-256 19-3 516-221 19-90 185-231-1 541-232 185-211-1 541-205 185-029-1 541-257-1

Screw, Backcap Backcap, 3 Cycle Seal, Backcap Gasket, Injector Injector (Specify Size) Cover Plate, Injector Screw, Injector Mount Filter Screen, Injector Spring Clip O-ring, Brine Fitting Brine Fitting C-clip, Backwash Flow Adjuster Backwash Flow Adjuster w/o-rings Gasket, Cross Over Port Body Stem Assembly O-ring (Small), Seat Insert Seat Insert O-ring (Large), Seat Insert Main Diaphragm C-clip, Main Diaphragm Return Spring, Main Diaphragm Screw, Adapter Ring O-ring Adapter Ring O-ring, 13/16" Riser Adapter 13/16" Riser Adapter O-ring (Outside), Riser Adapter Valve Body & Seal

4 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1

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