Table of Contents METROPOLITANA, TRAM AND BUS .................................................................................................... 1 Getting to campus................................................................................................................................... 2 International Center Address .............................................................................................................. 3 From Milan Malpensa Airport............................................................................................................. 3 From Cadorna Station ......................................................................................................................... 3 From Central Station ........................................................................................................................... 3 From Sant'Ambrogio Metro station .................................................................................................... 3 From Linate Airport ............................................................................................................................. 3 From Orio Al Serio (BG) Airport .......................................................................................................... 4 Accommodation ...................................................................................................................................... 5 Grading systems .................................................................................................................................. 9 SECURITY ........................................................................................................................................... 10

METROPOLITANA, TRAM AND BUS Tram and metropolitana are the modes of transport most utilized in the city and offer a valid alternative to cars. Milan has four metropolitana (subway) lines, M1 Red line, M2 Green line, M3 Yellow line and M5 Lilac line that connect the city with the hinterland. The areas of interest to tourists are well serviced. For example, it is only four stops from Stazione Centrale (Central Station) to Piazza Duomo which are connected by the M3 yellow line, allowing you to arrive quickly and directly in the heart of the city. The M1 red line, on the other hand, makes it possible to travel to the new fair centre of Milan from the centre of the city, without the hassle of using a car. It is also possible to purchase a “customised” ticket according to one’s own needs, including the single trip ticket, the ten-trip carnet ticket for those using the metropolitan occasionally and the tourist pass for anyone wishing to explore the city in depth. For those that need to travel between neighbouring municipalities and the Lombard capital, tickets increase in cost according to the distance to be travelled. ATM Point Metropolitana Duomo stop Metropolitana Stazione Centrale stop Metropolitana Stazione Cadorna stop Metropolitana Loreto stop Metropolitana Stazione Romolo stop Metropolitana Stazione Garibaldi stop

Toll-free number ATM 800 808181 The buses in Milan are a traditional mode of transport that runs throughout the city.

Local Radiobus Phone: 02. 4803.4803 The local Radiobus service picks up passengers and drops them at any requested stop in the neighborhood. In every service area passengers will find the requested bus waiting at the Radiobus stop: alternatively, passengers can ring for a bus just before going to the bus stop or reserve in advance from 01:00pm on the day that the service is required. The Radiobus service is available every day from 10:00pm to 02:00am. Night-time network The night-time ATM bus service was introduced on September 24th, 2011: on Fridays and Saturdays passengers can make use of an extra 15 public transport lines which will operate throughout the night. Standard ATM public transport network tickets may be used but tickets can also be purchased from city parking meters that will function from 00:30am to 06:00am. These will print tickets that can only be used on the surface network, at a cost of € 1.50.

For further information call the Atm free information number 800.80.81.81, accessible every day from 7:30am to 7:30pm.

Bike sharing Bicycles are a mode of transport that is ecological and practical for travelling in the city. Milan offers 144 Km of bike paths where lovers of bicycles can pedal away in tranquillity. The Bike Sharing service allows bicycles to be rented using a daily, weekly or annual pass that can be purchased from the ATM Points Duomo, Cadorna, Loreto, Centrale, Garibaldi and Romolo or on the internet. There is a map of bicycle collection stations available on the website at www.bikemi.com. Only persons over 16 years of age may rent bicycles and they must also be in possession of a credit card. The pass will then be delivered directly to their house. Bike sharing: 800 80 81 81 http://www.atm-mi.it/en/Giromilano/Pages/default.aspx

Getting to campus

International Center Address: International Center Via Carducci, 28/30 I-20123 Milano Tel: +39 02 7234 5801 Fax: +39 02 7234 5806

From Milan Malpensa Airport: Malpensa is Milan´s international airport. The Malpensa Express train (see: www.malpensaexpress.it) connects the airport to the city centre, stopping at Cadorna Station. It circulates every 30 minutes in either directions. Travel time is about 40 minutes and the cost is approximately€11. A taxi from Malpensa is very expensive (90 €) so we suggest you take the Malpensa Express to Cardorna Station.

From Cadorna Station: The station is connected to our campus via the underground system - Metro. You can then take a train toSant'Ambrogio metro station which is very close to the campus.

From Central Station: The station is connected to our campus by the underground system - Metro. Get on the green line direction to Abbiategrasso and get off at Sant'Ambrogio metro station.

From Sant'Ambrogio Metro station: The International Center is 3 mintues walk from theSant'Ambrogio metro station. Please go to the corner of Via Carducci and Via San Vittore and walk up Via Carducci approximately 150 meters to the Cattolica´s International Center.

From Linate Airport: Two buses connect Linate airport to downtown Milan. Bus #73 (city bus) will drop you off at S. Babila square behind the Duomo costing approximately €1.5. There is also the Airbus that stops next to

Central Station that connects both the green and yellow metro lines. See:http://www.orariautobus.it/autobus-milano-linate.html

A taxi from Linate will cost approximately €35.

From Orio Al Serio (BG) Airport: This airport is quite far from Milan but it is connected to Downtown Milan by two buses, which drop you off at Central Station costing approximately €8 to €9 (see:http://www.orioshuttle.com/). Taxi: Taxis from the railway stations will cost approximately €6 to €8.

Orientation Events UCSC International offers two Orientation Events for International Students at the beginning of each semester to provide students with all the necessary information for their stay at UCSC. During the orientation students will be informed on how to organize their course schedule, select courses, find classrooms, have access to campus facilities (cafeteria, library, health center and sport service etc.). They will also meet student associations and also receive their Cattolica student card/badge along with a personalized folder of information. Orientation Dates Check the Orientation Dates at the page Program Dates Orientation Location UCSC International Building via Carducci 28/30 20123 Milano Orientation Program A detailed program

Accommodation Cattolica's student housing options are as numerous as they are varied:

■ Degree-seeking students may apply for accommodation in a sought-after on-campus dormwww.collegiunicattolica.it ■ Other non-degree seeking students looking for accommodation in apartments can check the University housing announcement board or seek assistance from ESN or ESEG, the International Students Associations. Whether your housing is guaranteed by the exchange agreement between your own institution and Cattolica or not, you may select a housing solution through Milano International Living Service (MIL Service) which offers single or shared rooms in a residence hall off-campus or fully furnished apartments with wireless internet connections, utilities (water and electricity), a cleaning service, basic cable television, plus extra amenities such as a DVD player, TV, and kitchenware. Through a dedicated, team-oriented approach, MIL Service is committed to providing every student with the best residential experience. Their young and professional team is what makes the service competitive within the housing market since they understand the students' needs and wants, and respond with a quick and concrete solution. Find out more from www.milservice.com The average cost of accommodation in Milan is from €2,700 to €3,900 per semester. International Office Student Advisors The International Office Student Advisors will assist all international students from the very first contact and throughout the students experience at Cattolica. The support services include assistance with admissions, enrolment, housing, academic advising, access to health and welfare services, visa and residency permit applications and financial questions. Italian Language and culture courses The International Office together with the Language Center offers specialized Italian language courses before and throughout the academic year for International students wanting to improve their Italian language level.

Tutoring Every degree-seeking student enrolled at the university will be paired with a tutor, whose responsibility is to assist him/her with integrating the university environment and to provide support in case of need. More specifically the tutor can help with questions regarding the degree curriculum and requirements, the scheduling of exam dates or sessions, the university services, and assist in solving any administrative difficulty encountered. The overall role of the tutor is also to encourage

the foThe Cattolica Health Centre provides all enrolled students medical care, nursing care and psychological counselling.

General, specialist (gynaecology, ophthalmology, diet) and preventative medical examinations are available to students. During the centre's opening hours, the Nursing Service is always on hand to administer first aid, medication and prescribed drugs, measure blood pressure, take body temperature, provide information about local heath services, and give health advice. Access is free, no appointment needed.

The Health Center is located in the main building of the University: Largo Gemelli, 1 Dominicanum, 1st Floor Phone: 02.7234.2217 E-mail: [email protected]

The health centre is open on the following days for general visits: 

Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays:

9:30 – 12:30, 13:30 – 16: 30 

Wednesdays:

Afternoon only: 13:30 – 16:30 For specialized care: ophthalmology, gynaecology, dermatology, visits are on appointment only. The university health centre also has agreements with external medical services that apply discounts to Cattolica students for specialized care and diagnostic exams:

Studio Medico Sant'Ambrogio Via Carducci 19 Milano Via Terraggio 24/B Milano Tel. 02/87.39.62.80

Ospedale San Raffaele

Via Santa Croce 10/A Milano Via Respighi 2 Milano Tel. 02/58.18.78.18

www.fondazionesanraffaele.it

Access to these services does not require any kind of referral from the University Health Centre. Students should mention that they are Cattolica students when they call to book an appointment. rmation of study groups. ENTRO UNIVERSITARIO SPORTIVO (CUS) The University’s Centre for Sports (CUS) is an association of students attending Milanese universities that manages various sport facilities and disciplines. The CUS information point is located on main campus (Largo Gemelli).

"GET FIT" IN MILAN To celebrate the opening of its newest center in Milan, "GetFIT" in collaboration with UCSC International are offering100 gym subscriptions to UCSC International students. The trendy and elegant gymnasium located in via Vico 38, just five minutes walking distance from UCSC, will open its doors in October 2011 (in the meantime students will have access to all other centers). Even after the new opening you will be able to access all Get Fit centers in Milan at any time during the day. Get Fit centers in Milan

Be the first to use the brand new fitness equipment, relax in the sauna, do laps in the swimming pool and enjoy a game of squash. The unbeatable price of 250 € for the "open subscription" is valid for the entire semester, and includes: · Membership fee · Access to all Get FIT centers in Milan · Medical visit · Usage of all fitness equipment · Swimming pool · Participation for courses · Entrance into the Sauna area · Gym bag

Non Degree-seeking students Non E.U. citizens and residents need to request a student visa at the Italian embassy or consulate of their jurisdiction. You will find below the basic application requirements. However, it is important that students verify their consulate’s web site for any additional requirements. 

Admission letter issued by Cattolica

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Passport and Driver’s Licence/ID/Residency Card

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Student visa application to be submitted in person

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Proof of enrolment at home institution

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Affidavit of financial support

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Proof of adequate health insurance coverage outside your home country.

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Flight itinerary

Please bring with you to Italy additional photocopies of every document.

Degree-seeking students Non E.U. citizens residing abroad need to request a student visa at the Italian embassy or consulate of their jurisdiction. The visa application is submitted upon formal pre-admission to the university. See admission requirements for further information.

Additional Information can be found at http://www.study-in-italy.it/

Where to apply for a visa Please visit the following website to find an Italian Embassy/Consulate near you http://www.esteri.it/visti/rilascio_eng.asp

Grading systems Examinations are graded according to a scale ranging from 0 to 30, with 18 as a pass mark. A "cum laude" may be added to the highest grade (30; 30 e lode) as a mention of special distinction. All examination results are used to calculate the overall degree mark on a scale of 0 – 110. The final result is based on exam results plus the presentation of a project or dissertation in front of a Board of Examiners. The pass mark is 66 and students who obtain full marks of 110 may also be awarded ‘summa cum laude’ (110 e lode).

Medication Most medications you can purchase over-the-counter in other countries are available only by prescription in Italy. We suggest that you stock up on any medication you will need during the stay. You may also want to verify the availability of certain drugs in Italy and any custom restrictions for importing medication from outside the E.U., especially antidepressant drugs. You do not want to have your medication confiscated at customs.

Travel Insurance Your health insurance will likely not cover any damage or loss of belongings during travel and stay in Milan. We highly advise you to insure your most precious and expensive belongings such as laptop and other electronics. A travel insurance would also cover any loss of important documents such as passport, credit cards, etc. Your travel insurance may also cover emergency medical expenses and medical evacuation. Do a search and compare the benefits and see how they complement your health insurance abroad. If you do bring your laptop it is important you insure it against damage or theft. Never leave your belongings unattended anywhere on campus, library, computer lab, etc. Do not mail your laptop as it will be held at customs and will only be released by paying a customs fee.

Medical Insurance You can purchase the Italian National Health Insurance before arrival if you are unable to find in your own country an insurance with coverage valid abroad. We do however recommend you to be insured during your travel period before your arrival in Milan. If you do decide to purchase an insurance policy with international coverage, make sure it covers emergency treatment, medical evacuation and repatriation, and a minimum coverage of up to $ 30,000.00. Please consider that the Health Centre at Cattolica provides all international students with medical care, nursing care and psychological counselling free of charge. General, specialist (gynaecology, ophthalmology, diet) and preventive medical examinations are also available to students.

SECURITY Video surveillance and constant local police presence. Security in Milan is carried out with the use of new technologies and the commitment of the police forces. The following are numbers to call in case of emergency: Polizia (Police) 113 Carabinieri (alternate police force) 112 Guardia di Finanza (Financial Police) 117 Polizia Locale (Municipal Police) 02.02.08 - 800.66.77.33 Questura (Police Headquarters) 02.62261 Polstrada 1518

Aci Soccorso Stradale (Road Assistance) Milan 800.3116 Ambulance 118 Fire brigade 115 First Aid Croce Verde 02.8940.6035 24-hour medical assistance 02.34567

International Student Guide

A genuine experience

Table of Contents > Welcome to Milan ............................................................................................................................................................................. 3 > Before you leave home .............................................................................................................................................................. 4 > What to bring to Milan ............................................................................................................................................................... 7 > Medical Assistance ........................................................................................................................................................................... 8 > Accommodation in Milan ...................................................................................................................................................... 9 > MIL Service ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 10 > Studying at Cattolica .................................................................................................................................................................. 13 > UCSC University Academic Curriculum ............................................................................................................14 > UCSC International Curriculum .....................................................................................................................................15 > Italian Language Course ...................................................................................................................................................... 16 > Orientation Events .......................................................................................................................................................................... 18 > Public transportation in Milan ...................................................................................................................................... 20 > How to reach us upon arrival ...................................................................................................................................... 22 > Residency Permit Requirements ............................................................................................................................... 23 > Student Life ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 24 > Living in Milan ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 25 > Money Matters .................................................................................................................................................................................... 26 > Connecting You ................................................................................................................................................................................ 27 > International Student Services (ISS) ....................................................................................................................... 28

Welcome to Milan Dear International Student, Studying in Milan can be an exciting and challenging experience as well as an opening of your social and cultural horizons. This guide has been carefully compiled to provide the essential information to prepare your experience at Cattolica. You will find critical information about courses, visas, residency permits, housing, student life and practical tips for your stay here in Milan. Please regularly check the International Student Web Portal in order to remain updated on academic issues concerning your stay: > www.ucscinternational.it Further information relevant to your day-to-day experience in Italy will be provided during the Orientation Events, however this guide should give you a good idea of what to expect upon arrival. We hope you will make your stay a positive and enriching experience. UCSC International Staff

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Before you leave home UPCOMING COMMUNICATIONS International student advisors will send you information via email regarding housing, Italian language course, orientation events, and course registration. Visa Requirements Non E.U. Citizens require a visa for a stay of longer than three months (90 days). Students need to request a student visa at the Italian embassy or consulate of your jurisdiction. Below you will find the basic application requirements. However, it is important that students verify their consulate’s web site for any additional requirements: > Admission letter issued by host institution > Passport and Driver’s Licence/ID/ Residency Card > Student visa application to be submitted in person > Proof of enrolment at home institution > Affidavit of financial support > Proof of adequate health insurance coverage outside your country > Flight itinerary Travel Insurance Your health insurance will likely not cover any damage or loss of belongings during travel and stay in Milan. We highly advise you to insure your most precious and expensive be4

longings such as laptop and other electronics. A travel insurance would also cover any loss of important documents such as passport, credit cards, etc. Your travel insurance may also cover emergency medical expenses and medical evacuation. Do a search and compare the benefits and see how they complement your health insurance abroad. If you do bring your laptop it is important you insure it against damage or theft. Never leave your belongings unattended anywhere on campus, library, computer lab, etc. Do not mail your laptop as it will be held at customs and will only be released by paying a customs fee.

Medical Insurance If you are a national from either a EU Member State or an EEA country or you are of Swiss nationality, you should have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC, Italian acronym: TEAM) obtained in your home country from your national healthcare authority. The European Health Insurance Card (or EHIC) allows to receive medical treatment in another member state for free, or at a reduced cost. A patient contribution is required for prescriptions, medical examinations, oral and dental care.

If you are travelling with temporary Health Insurance, you may apply for Italian Health Insurance upon arrival. The insurance costs about 49 € for a period of 6 months and 98€ for a period of 12 months. For more information contact the International Student Services. Note: An insurance policy is compulsory if you apply for a residence permit. Note: ISEP Students must have ISEP health insurance.

Non-EU Citizens must take out an International Health Insurance which covers costs related to medical treatment and admission to hospital. Always contact your insurance agency before leaving for Italy.

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Travel REGISTRATION We strognly advise you to register your contact details online with the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade of your jusrisdiction. The registered information provided by you will be used in the unlikely case of an emergency.

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What to bring to Milan Documentations check list > A valid passport > A valid student visa (if applicable) > Travel itinerary/ticket > Travel insurance > Health insurance > Credit cards & other cards > Any medical certificates > Admission letter issued by host institution > At least four colour and originial passport size photos (3 x 4 cm). They can not be scanned. Documentation guidElines Make additional copies of all your documents, certificates, cards etc. Keep copies in a safe place in your home country, and bring the rest to Italy. When traveling remember to keep copies in both your hand luggage and check-in luggage. Upon arrival keep all documents in safe place in your apartment.

Packing Milan is the fashion capital of Italy so remember not to over pack. December to February are the coldest months, but April usually brings nice spring weather. Students on campus generally dress informally but you may want to bring with you something more formal for special events. You can find everything in Milan so don’t worry if you forget to pack something. You will need to buy plug/power converters for your electrical devices. Electricity in Italy and Europe comes out of the wall socket at 220 volts. The Italian plug is a two or three round-prong socket.

For further safety measures, scan all your documents, certificates, cards etc and email them to yourself as attachements. Bring receipts of any electrical goods that you bring such as laptops, cameras, iPods, etc. This ensures when and where the items were purchased. 7

Medical Assistance Medication You should verify the availability of certain drugs in Italy, but we suggest that you stock up from home on any specific medication you will need during the stay. Control the the customs restrictions for importing medication from outside the E.U. especially antidepressant drugs as you do not want to have your medication confiscated at customs. For safety measures, obtain a letter from your General Practioner specifying the medication you will bring with you. Pharmacies Most medications that you purchase over-the-counter in other countries are available only by prescription in Italy.

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Health Centre @ Cattolica There is a Health Centre on campus which provides all registered students with medical care, nursing care and psychological counselling. If you require medical assistance, contact the International Student Services who will arrange an appointment with the Health Centre and make sure an English speaking nurse will be available if needed. Hospitals If you require more serious medical assistance you will need to visit the hospital. Remember to always bring a copy of your health insurance. Always advice the International Student Services. They and they can arrange an English speaking assistance if needed.

Accommodation in Milan According to your exchange program included benefits you will either be automatically placed in Cattolica housing (MIL Service) or be provided with information about housing options before your arrival. Please check with your home Institution Advisor what benefits are included between the universities agreement.

OTHER HOUSING OPTIONS > Assistance by ESEG and ESN, the International Students Associations > The University housing announcement board > Individual research Useful links: > www.secondamano.it/ > www.kijiji.it/

CAttolica housing: MIL Service > Off campus apartment > Single dorm room with bathroom If you will not automatically be placed in Cattolica housing, then you will have to find alternative housing solutions.

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MIL Service Milano International Living Service (MIL Service) was founded in 2007 in order to respond to the high demand for housing: every year more and more students come to Milan from all around the world to spend a semester or a whole year studying at one of the prestigious universities in Milan. MIL Service allows its customers to focus on their academic life, while leaving the housing problems to the service’s care. The housing typology provided by MIL Service makes it possible to fully experience the new international student life by introducing the student to the reality of a real citizen: live MILAN while living IN Milan. 10

Its young, dedicated and professional team are committed, which is what makes MIL Service competitive within the housing markets. The team tries to understand the students’ needs and provide every student with the best residential experience. Useful link: > www.milservice.com > www.ucscinternational.it/accommodation/

Prices In its housing package students will receive many other services, such as fully furnished apartments, 24/7 internet connection, bi-monthly cleaning, a cell phone with 50€ credit, etc. Most students placed in any of the Cattolica housing options will be required to pay a refundable housing deposit of 300€ for apartments and 400€ for dorms, to be paid before their arrival. You will be notified by MIL Serivice.

MIL Apartments: Semester (5 months) = from 2,500€ up to 2,800€ according to apartment typology and its location. Full year (10 months) = 5,000€ 5,300€. Dorms: Semester (5 months) = €3,000 housing only, with meal plan €4.300 Prices haven’t been confirmed yet. Please note that according to the agreement between your home institution and UCSC, accomodation may be included in your study abroad benefits. Note: Prices do not include the deposit.. Contact: > [email protected]

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Studying at Cattolica Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore offers two different curricula of study with a wide variety of courses. Students can choose to create their own semester of study by selecting courses from the two curricula: 1. UCSC International Curriculum Language of instruction : English Calendar: September / December – February / May 2. UCSC University Academic Curriculum Language of instruction : English / Italian Calendar: September / February – February / July More Info: www.ucscinternational. it/study-programs-ucsc/academicsexchange

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UCSC University Academic Curriculum As International Students you can take any course within any faculty at any level, Laurea Triennale (undergraduate) and Laurea Magistrale (Graduate). > www.ucscinternational.it/studyprograms-ucsc/academics-exchange The courses bear ECTS credits. For more info regarding the ECTS credits and the Italian grading system check the following link: > www.ucscinternational.it/images/ stories/EUROPEAN_CREDIT_TRANSFER_SYSTEM.pdf

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UCSC International Curriculum The courses within the UCSC International Curriculum will be mainly offered on a semester basis (both Spring and Fall); however, as changes may occur, applicants will be advised on the effective and definitive list of courses available two months before the semester start. The courses bear the equivalent of 3 US credits, however within the European Exchange Framework these same courses are worth 4 ECTS. The conversion from US or ECTS credits to your credit system is defined by your home institution. You can pick courses from the following field of studies:

> Italian culture: Literature, Theatre, Cinema, Music and Phylosophy > Fashion and Design > Media, Communications and Sociology For more info regarding courses please visit the following link > www.ucscinternational.it/studyprograms-ucsc/ucsc-internationalcurriculum For more info: on US/ECTS credits, Academic policies and course lists, please visit > www.ucscinternational.it/images/ stories/UCSC_ACADEMIC_POLICIES. pdf

> Business and Economics > International Relations

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Italian Language Course UCSC International organizes Italian Language and Culture Courses, designed for students who want to learn, study and explore the Italian language and culture. The language course is not compulsory but highly recommended. According to your Exchange Programs’s included benefits, you will be automatically registered into the Italian Language Course or be provided with information about the payment options before your arrival. Automatically registered students will be asked to take the online placement test.. The test is mandatory for all the students including absolute beginners.

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PRE-SESSION INTENSIVE COURSE (50 units - 5 ECTS) Held at the beginning of each semester.

SEMESTER COURSE (40 units - 3 ECTS) Runs throughout the semester and in conjunction with other academic coursework. Calendar Fall 2013 Pre-session intensive course: 5-20 September Semester course: 7 October - 28 November Spring 2014 Pre-session intensive course: 6-21 February Semester course: 3 March - 8 May More info: > www.ucscinternational.it/studyprograms-ucsc/italian-languageculture-course-exch

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Orientation Events For your convenience, UCSC International has scheduled two Orientation sessions. Please make sure your scheduled arrival allows you to attend one of the two sessions organized per semester. FALL SEMESTER First session September 3-4 2013 (Mandatory for those enrolled in the pre-session intensive Italian Lan18

guage and Culture Course). Note: The first day of benefits will be September 2 2013. Second session September 17-18 2013 (Mandatory for those arriving for the beginning of courses). Note: The first day of benefits will be September 16 2013.

SPRING SEMESTER First session February 4 - 5 2014 (Mandatory for those enrolled in the pre-session intensive Italian Language and Culture Course) Note: The first day of benefits will be February 3 2014. Second session February 18-19 2014 (Mandatory for those arriving for the beginning of courses.

Note: The first day of benefits will be February 17 2014. Please avoid arriving before that date since the University offices are closed during the weekend. Meeting place UCSC International (Via Carducci 28/30)

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Public Transportation in Milan milan public transportation The Azienda Trasporti Milanesi (ATM) operates within the metropolitan area, comprising of a metro, bus and tram network. BUS Buses are always orange. The wide network of buses covers the entire city. It will allow you to access all major city attractions within 30 minutes.

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metro (Subway; Underground) The metropolitana (metro) has four primary lines: red (M1), green (M2), yellow (M3), and lilac (M5). Metro entrances are marked with a red square sign with a white “M”. The Milano metro runs 6:15 untill 00:14.

TRAM (Trolley car) Run throughout the city. The older trams are orange whilst the modern trams are yellow with green interior. Tram stops as well as bus stops are marked by tall orange poles with a diagram of the tram or bus route. TICKET All tickets for the public transportation system can be purchased at news kiosks, tabacco shops, or in the metro stations from machines or ticket booths. The same ticket can be used on all three types of transport for up to 90 minutes, however cannot enter twice in the underground with the same ticket even within the 90 minutes.

Note: You can not purchase tickets on the bus or trams. TICKET COSTS > One ride is 1.50€ each and is valid for 90 minutes. > Carnet 10 rides of 90 minutes 13.80€ (one per person, cannot be shared) > We recommend that you purchase the monthly transportation pass for 17€ (plus a 10€ subscription fee). Information will be given at the Orientation Events. For further details on the Milan public transportation system visit > www.atm-mi.it/en/Pages/default. aspx

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How to reach us upon arrival DEPARTING THE airport From Malpensa Airport Via Train: Malpensa Express (Ferrovie Nord Milano Trains) Catch directly from Terminal 1. Connects Malpensa Airport to Cadorna Railway Station (final stop), which then connects you to the metro red (MM1) and green (MM2) lines. Trains depart every 30 minutes and travel time varies from 29-36 minutes. Cost of a single ticket is 11€. You must purchase and validate your ticket before entering the train. > www.malpensaexpress.it/en/ Via bus/coach: Malpensa Shuttle de luxe coaches Connects Malpensa Airport to Centrale Railway Station, which then connects you to the metro green (MM2) and yellow (MM3) lines. Buses depart every 10 minutes and travel time lasts about 50 minutes. Cost of a single ticket is 10,00€. You can purchase your ticket before entering the bus. > www.malpensashuttle.it/e-index2. php From Linate Airport Via Starfly buses Connects Linate Airport to Centrale Railway Station, which then connects you to the metro green (MM2) and yellow (MM3) lines. 22

> www.orariautobus.it/autobusmilano-linate.html From Orio Al Serio (BG) Airport Via bus Furthest away from Milan centre. Connects Orio to Centrale Railway Station, which then connects you to the metro green (MM2) and yellow (MM3) lines. Cost of a single ticket is 9€. > www.orioshuttle.com/_eng/ Getting to UCSC International Address Via Giosué Carducci 28/30, 20123 Level 3 - ISS Via Metro Our campus is located closest to metro green (MM2) line. STOP: Sant’Ambrogio DIRECTION: Abbiategrasso/Assago. Centrale Railway and Cadorna Railway Station are both located on the metro green line.

By Bus

Buses #50 and #58 stop outside the university. Via Taxi/Cab (fixed rates) Malpensa - Milano 75€ Linate - Milano 35€

Residency Permit Requirements All Non-EU Citizens require a visa for a stay longer than three months (90 days). Within eight (8) days of your arrival in Italy you are required to submit the application for a Permit of Stay, Permesso di Soggiorno which will be issued by the local police (Questura). You will require the following documents: > An Application Form which you will be given by UCSC International upon arrival > Passport > Photocopy of personal data page of the visa and last page of passport > Four recent and identical passport size photographs

> VISA documentation and any letter issued and stamped by the Consulate (make additional photocopies) > A certificate of enrolment issued by UCSC (provided upon arrival) > Photocopy of health insurance coverage > A Marca da Bollo (revenue stamp) of 14,62€ to purchase upon arrival > Address of your apartment in Milan including the zip code. After submitting the form, obtain your receipt. The administrative costs will be a total of 155.00€. A special orientation session will be organized to assist you.

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Student Life As you may have already heard being an Exchange student is not only an academic but at the same time an enjoyable, social and fun experience. Adapting to a different culture can be exciting yet challenging. Student associations ESEG and ESN are also going to welcome you to Milan upon arrival, during the welcome days and assist you throughout the semester. They will help make your stay in Milan.

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Some of the activities organized throughout the semester include: > Language sharing > Assistance finding an apartment > Trips > Aperitivo and dinner > Cultural events > Sporting activities > City tours > Nights out Useful links: > www.facebook.com/groups > www.esn.it

Living in Milan Milan is a city of movement People walk everywhere. Their sense of style ranges from casual sophistication to elegant design. Milan is a modern and progressive city, the commercial heartland of Italy, and headquarters to many of Italy’s multinational corporations and world famous brands. Yet despite the opportunities which accompany a busy and successful city, the essence of Milan is as true today as in centuries past. In short, Milan is a beautiful, cultured and dramatic city, a city which offers a multitude of features that tourists rarely discover. Milan is the real Italy, from courtyards and window boxes to small and intimate museums, churches and laneways. Milan is a city to explore and a place to reflect. Milan is a city of trams and Smart cars. Where beautifully dressed people ride scooters to work, where thousands of runners exercise daily in the parks.

Milan is a city of people. A city full of life. The menus of Milanese restaurants have influenced the world’s finest cuisines. And the creations of Milanese designers have placed Milan alongside New York, Paris and London as a home of global fashion. Milan is a living, breathing, exciting city. A friendly and welcoming city. A bustling city on the one hand; yet quiet, contemplative and conducive on the other. Useful links: > www.ucscinternational.it > www.atm-mi.it/en/Pages/default. aspx > www.trenitalia.com/ > www.vivimilano.it > www.easymilano.it/ > www.comune.milano.it

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Money Matters You may keep your bank account at home and use your visa check card at any Bancomat around the city. Note: “ATM” (Azienda Trasporti Milanesi) is the anagram used for the public transportation system in Milan, not to be confused with Automatic Teller Machine. “Bancomat” is an Automatic Teller Machine. When withdrawing money from a Bancomat be attentive to the people around you. We advise you use Bancomats that are inside banks and not those right off the street. Unless necessary do not use Bancomats inside or near stations. If you wish to open a bank account o rent an apartment you will need a Codice Fiscale, Tax code. This card is issued by the Ufficio Unico delle Entrate - Via della Moscova 1, under presentation of a valid identity document and a copy of your Visa if you are not an E.U. student. AVERAGE COSTS (per semester) Accommodation*: 2700 to 3900€ Food**: 750 to 1000€ Personal expenses: 200 to 400€ per month Books: 26

200€ Local Transportation: 102€ * Cost may vary depending on the area, single or double room and possible program benefits. ** University provides you with a badge which allows students to eat in the cafeteria at discounted prices. Full meal: 7.70€/Lunch meal: 5€ Pizza line: 4.50€ Note: If you activate your card at EDUCatt by paying 20€ for the whole semester, you will get a discount price as follows: Full meal: 5.65€ Lunch meal: 4.50€ AVERAGE SINGLE PRICED ITEMS > Pizza + Beer : 15€ > Cinema ticket: 7,50€ > Gelato (ice-cream): 3€ > Panino (sandwich): 5€

Connecting You Mail To locate a post office look for the yellow and blue PT sign. For mailing cost information consult the Italian Post web site: > www.poste.it If you need to mail sensitive materials we would advise you send them by recommended mail, courier, or through express mail services, such as DHL, UPS or FedEx. Receiving packages from US via priority mail can cost a lot in terms of taxes. Postal & customs taxes are very high depending on the weight and the value of the package’s content. Please note that if you are going to get packages delivered to our office, this is the procedure you are required to follow: 1) inform us that you are expecting a package at our office and the estimated delivery date. 2) since our office is not authorized to keep cash money you are kindly requested to leave us the amount you are supposed to pay at least a couple of days before the foreseen delivery date. Please note that if you don’t respect this procedure, UCSC International will not accept the package and it will be sent back to the central post office (close to Linate Airport).

Telephone The most convenient way to keep in touch with your new Italian friends and family back home is the cell phone. You can purchase an unlocked GSM phone back home and get an Italian SIM card at cell phone providers such as TIM, Vodafone or Wind. Only triband and quadband phones will work in Europe. Check with your home cell phone service provider to find out if your current cell phone (once unlocked) can support a foreign SIM card. Once in Italy, you may look into signing up for a plan or simply getting prepaid/rechargeable service. If you do not have a GSM phone purchased at home you may also buy one at a reasonable cost once in Italy. MILService will provide students placed in its apartments with a cell phone and 50€ credit.

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International Student Services (ISS) At Cattolica we have so much to offer. Much more than be contained in the few pages of this brochure. The people to take you to these faraway places are the same people who will first bring you to the unique land of Italy. On paper they are just names. But once you are enrolled at Cattolica, Laura, Francesca, and Gloria will soon become your advisors, mentors and friends. International Student Advisors are not only responsible for promoting the attractions and benefits of Cattolica, they are there for the duration of your time at Cattolica. And beyond. Many of our past students have since started international networks endorsing the benefits of our

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beautiful and supportive university as a study destination, whether for a semester, a year, or years. The International Student Service has a sign which says welcome. And we mean it. Whether your need or concern relates to your studies, accommodation, experiences or needs, our mandate is to be both your first port of call and in the vast majority of cases, your answer. We have specialist staff to address all areas of need. And we have a unique understanding of the challenges experience by international students, not least because most of us have been international students ourselves.

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International Student Services gives support and advice to all international students at the University and helps you have a happy and successful time in Milan.

Should you have any problem or inquiry, please do not hesitate to contact the Incoming Student Advisors: > [email protected]

Incoming student advisors run a daily drop-in service where students are welcome to come in to ask for information and advice about:

Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore UCSC International Via Carducci, 28/30 I-20123 Milano Tel. +39 02 7234 5801 Fax +39 02 7234 5806

> VISA/Permit of stay > Course registration > Cultural adaptation and homesickness > Anything else that is worrying you

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We look forward to welcoming you in Milan www.ucscinternational.it

guide to the

city

Comune di Milano Settore Politiche del Turismo e Marketing Territoriale Via Dogana, 2 20121 Milano Director Massimiliano Taveggia

Published by Iniziative Speciali di De Agostini Libri S.p.A. Director Paolo Andreoni Product Manager Licia Triberti, Davide Gallotti

Development and monitoring of tourism Sergio Daneluzzi

Editorial project Federica Savino

Local promotional portal Patrizia Bertocchi

Editorial Manager Gioachino Gili

Content supervision Mauro Raimondi

Editing and Iconographic Research Marco Torriani with Alessandra Allemandi Graphic Design and Layout Sandra Luzzani with Vando Pagliardini and Raffaella Piccolo Text by Monica Berno Technical Prepress Services Andrea Campo Technical Coordination Guido Leonardi

Activate the QR code on your smartphone. Each itinerary has a code offering access to the Guide’s special content. Photo credits DeAgostini Picture, Archivio Alinari, Alessandro Casiello, Marco Clarizia, Contrasto, Corbis, Gianni Congiu, Marka, Mauro Ranzani, Andrea Scuratti, Vando Pagliardini, Michela Veicsteinas

contents

Introduction

2

Map of the city/Center of the city

4

Milan and its History

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1 Exploring the City Centre

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2 Ancient Roman and Medieval Milan

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3 The Renaissance and the Baroque

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4 The Neoclassical Age and the 19th-Century 16 5 The Great Churches of Milan

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6 The Buildings of Milan

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7 The Museums of Milan

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8 Contemporary Art in Milan

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9 Milan: a City of Science

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10 Parks and Waterways

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11 Shopping in Milan

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12 Entertainment, Sports and Leisure

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13 Outside Milan

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Expo Milano 2015

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Useful Information

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Welcome

Dealing with a great city like Milan demands a comprehensive overview, which is why we have prepared this handy, complete guidebook, offering the key to the treasures of the city and its surroundings. We have chosen a simple format, ideal when strolling around the city, comprising 13 itineraries covering art, history, culture and nature. Essential, up-to-date information will guide you through the best the city has to offer, as well as to a number of unexpected treasures off the beaten track, just waiting to be explored. This guidebook is our way of welcoming you to our city, and of thanking you for choosing Milan. We are certain you won’t be disappointed. For centuries, Milan has captured the interest of

the world by its dynamism, creativity and innovation. This energy reflects the love of life its inhabitants have ever offered to Europe and the world at large. While sauntering through the streets of Milan, visiting its museums and basilicas, doing a spot of shopping, or exploring the ancient waterways of Lombardy, you will find yourselves drawn into the special atmosphere of the city, sharing in its positivity and drive. Milan loves nothing better than a challenge, and the 2015 Word Expo will be no exception. The city is preparing to open its doors to the world, and of course to you. This guidebook is our answer to an equally important challenge, that of enticing you back to Milan, attracted by that subtle fascination that welcomes and enchants all. Enjoy your stay in Milan. Giuliano Pisapia Mayor of Milan

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The scrofa semilanuta, or half-woolly sow, in a bas-relief on the Palazzo della Ragione recalling the legendary origins of the city’s name. Belloveso, chief of the Celts, founded Milan in the place where a half-woolly sow (“medio lanae” in Latin) had been found just as the oracle had predicted.

The first traces of a settlement in the Milan area date back to the 6th-5th century B.C., when the area was inhabited by the Insubrian Gauls. The village’s Celtic name, which has come down to us in its Latinised form, Mediolanum, seems to have meant “land amidst the rivers” or “the plains”. Finally conquered by the Romans in 194 B.C., the city became the residence of Emperor Maximian and capital of the Western Roman Empire in A.D. 286. After the A.D. 313 Edict of Constantine - promulgated in Milan it became a centre of great importance due to the consolidation of the new Christian religion thanks to the work of Ambrose, elected Bishop in 374. Many of Milan’s churches (such as Sant’Ambrogio, Sant’Eustorgio and San Lorenzo) are in fact of paleochristian origin. When the court moved to Ravenna (A.D. 402), Milan saw the beginning of a period of decline. From the end of the 5th century to the 8th century the city was devastated by Attila and the Huns, by Goths and by Byzantines; following the Lombard conquest of 569, the new kingdom set up its capital in Pavia. Not until the Carolingian period (9th–10th century) did the city become an important centre again, above all thanks to its count-bishops. In the 12th century the growth of the city of Milan attracted the attention of Emperor Frederick I of Swabia, who attempted to subdue it and, when faced with resistance, destroyed it completely in 1162. The alliance of the Communes of the Po Valley, which joined forces in the Lombard League (1167), defeated Barbarossa (Legnano, 1176) and rebuilt the city.

Milan and its History

The Biscione is another symbol of the city of Milan, along with St. George’s cross and the Scrofa Semilanuta. The dragon, in the form of a serpent in the act of consuming a young man, was the heraldic charge of the Visconti family.

The age of the free communes ended under the dominion of the Torriani family and then the Viscontis (1277-1301, 1311-1447). In these 170 years Milan was the capital of a vast duchy, and construction of the Duomo began (1386). Upon the death of Filippo Maria Visconti in 1447, the absence of an heir led to the three-year government of the Aurea Repubblica Ambrosiana, without placating the conflict between the city’s most important families over inheritance of political control. In 1450 the city fell into the hands of a captain of fortune, Francesco Sforza, and it was under his dynasty that Milan became one of the capitals of the Renaissance, thanks to the many artists who worked in the city (including Filarete, Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci); this was the time of construction of the Ospedale Maggiore, Cappella Portinari and the Lazzaretto. In the early 16th century the area around Milan became the theatre of conflict between the French and Spanish monarchies. The Spanish prevailed, and were to dominate the city for almost two centuries (1535-1713). These were hard times, times of great social inequality, of plague (1576 and 1630) and the domination of the Borromeo family. The first member of this family, St. Carlo, made Milan a stronghold of the Catholic Counter-Reformation; the second, Federico, opened its first public library, the Ambrosiana, and the picture gallery of the same name. In 1713 control of Milan passed from the Spanish to the Austrians. Under Empress Maria Theresa of Austria (1740-1780) and her son Joseph II (1780-1790) the city began to thrive again in every way, from the economy to the arts. The Accademia di Brera was founded, and the Teatro alla Scala, the Palazzo and Villa Reale and many neoclassical palaces were built. On 15 May 1796 Napoleon came into the city at the head of the French army. One year later Milan became the

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capital of the Cisalpine Republic, and then, in 1805, of the Kingdom of Italy: Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned in the Duomo. With the return of the Austrians (1814) the unification of Italy, known as the Risorgimento, began in Milan. In 1848 the city rose against the Austro-Hungarians, winning the revolt after five days of battle. But not until 1859 did Milan join the Savoy dominions, and in 1861 it became a part of the Kingdom of Italy, soon becoming its economic capital. The new wealth soon drastically altered the city’s historic centre, where banks and insurance companies set up their headquarters and elegant new districts were built (often with little regard for the city’s past history). The city’s many industries attracted labourers, and a new working class arose, represented at first by the Partito Operaio or Workers’ Party (1882) and then by the Partito Socialista Italiano, the Italian Socialist Party (1892). By the end of the century the political climate was incandescent, and the tension led to the 1898 repression of a popular uprising by the army under general

«Everything is wonderful in Milan, the abundance of every thing, the number and elegance of its palatial homes, the amicable disposition of the people; the cheerful living…» Decimius Magnus Ausonius, 4th century A.D.

Bava Beccaris, who shot cannon fire into crowds protesting against the increase in the price of bread, killing 80 people and injuring 450. In the years following the First World War, the city of Milan saw more times of great social tension and economic hardship. It was here that Mussolini founded the Fascist Party in 1919: the regime made a great mark on the city, changing its face forever with the (controversial) covering over of the canals (Navigli) and the construction of a number of public works (Palazzo di Giustizia, Palazzo dell’Arte, Fiera campionaria). During the Second World War Milan was heavily bombarded by the Allies, and the city was in the front lines of the fight against fascism following 1943, becoming the seat of the Partisans’ Northern Italian Command, earning the city a Gold Medal of the Resistance. When the conflict was over, the capital of Lombardy became the engine driving reconstruction of the country and the leader in an economic boom which saw the city grow and transform with the arrival of thousands of immigrants. From 1967 on, workers’ and students’ protests and then the strategy of tension led to further changes in the city’s character. The Banca dell’Agricoltura massacre in Piazza Fontana (12 December 1969) ushered in a time of violent political struggle and terrorist attacks which did not end until the early ’80s. The rest is recent history, in which the city of Milan is at the centre of an irreversible process of urban development resulting from almost total deindustrialisation. Large-scale projects such as City Life, Portello and Cascina Merlata are changing the look of the land. With Expo Milano 2015 the city will see further architectural and urban change, starting with the huge complex to be built alongside the new trade fair centre and the new canal linking the exhibition area with the city’s historic canals or Navigli: a process of renewal which is not only urban, but social and cultural as well.

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Top: an episode of the Five Days of Milan depicted in a painting by Baldassarre Verazzi. Between 18 and 22 March 1848 the people of Milan rebelled against the AustroHungarian army, setting up barricades. Above: The laying of the first stone in the Gallery, by Domenico Induno. It was 7 March 1865 and King Vittorio Emanuele II attended.

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PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

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GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

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PIAZZA DELLA SCALA

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PALAZZO MARINO

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TEATRO ALLA SCALA

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SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE

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PALAZZO DI BRERA

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PINACOTECA DI BRERA

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SAN MARCO

1 The rooftop terraces of the Duomo offer splendid views over the city, but visitors must climb 919 steps to get to them! On the Gran Guglia, the cathedral’s highest spire, rises the Madonnina, symbol of Milan ever since the tricolour flag appeared on the spire during the Five Days in 1848, hung there by the patriot Torelli when the Austrian snipers had fled from the roof of the cathedral.

Exploring the The first place anyone who lives in Milan will take a first-time visitor is of course Piazza del Duomo, the geographical and historical centre of Milan. The existing piazza is the result of a series of changes and expansions over the centuries; at one time it was very small, surrounded by medieval houses and palaces. The cathedral must have been a very impressive sight as one emerged from a narrow alleyway. Between 1865 and 1873 a large churchyard was created, surrounded by palaces with arcades, changing the Duomo’s emotional impact. The piazza contains the Duomo, the Palazzo Reale [> p. 16/24], the Arengario [> p. 22/30], the arcades and the Galleria; in the centre is the equestrian monument to King Vittorio Emanuele. The Duomo [> p. 18], symbol of the city, is of uncertain date. Its construction may have begun in 1386, as we may read on a small stone at the beginning of the first bay on the right in the church: “El principio dil domo di Milano fu nel’anno 1386”. We can say for sure that work on the facade began in the first half of the 16th century. The “Fabbrica del Duomo” was an endless task: the last door was not completed until 1965! The marble mass is of exceptional size, and is one of Europe’s biggest Gothic cathedrals, measuring 158 m long, 93 m wide and 108.5 m high at its highest spire. To the left of the cathedral is the 19th century Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II [> p. 17] linking Piazza del Duomo with Piazza della Scala, where the two main buildings face one another: Palazzo Marino [> p. 24] on one side and Teatro alla Scala on the other [> p. 17], the world’s best-known opera theatre. The left arcade covers the entrance to the Museo Teatrale alla Scala [> p. 28]. We continue our tour on the street running along the side of the theatre, via

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Verdi, to via Brera. Here we turn to the left into via del Carmine to a small square containing the church of Santa Maria del Carmine, the parish church for English-speaking immigrants, where mass is celebrated every week in English and in Tagalog, the most important language of the Philippines. It has a complicated and curious history: originally built in the 15th century, it has been repeatedly rebuilt and restored, and the Spanish ordered its bell tower lowered in 1664. We continue along via Brera to the impressive 17th-century Palazzo di Brera, home to the Pinacoteca, the Accademia di Belle Arti and the Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense. This is the heart of the Brera district, with its artists, poets and crowded bars. The Baroque Palazzo di Brera has a solemn facade, a noteworthy portal - framed by the columns supporting the balcony - a beautiful courtyard and a majestic grand staircase (Scalone d’Onore) leading to the famous Pinacoteca [> p. 28]. At the corner of via Fatebenefratelli and via Pontaccio, we turn right into via San Marco, home of the church and convent where Mozart stayed. This is where the “Tombon” of San Marco opened up, a little lake marking the end point of the Naviglio or canal [> p. 37], a port where goods were unloaded off barges. The church of San Marco dates back to the 13th century and still has its original portal, bell tower and a number of statues. The interior has been redone in Baroque style.

City Centre

Blocks of marble for the construction of the Duomo were brought from Lago Maggiore via the Ticino River, the Naviglio Grande and the “fossa interna dei navigli”, the city’s inner circle of canals, up to the little lake of Santo Stefano, an artificial pool between the hospital and the church of Santo Stefano.

«...(the Duomo seems) a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!...» Mark Twain

Left: Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, covered passageway in a Latin cross shape, featuring mosaics and a wrought iron and glass roof. Lower left: Teatro alla Scala, the world’s best-known opera theatre. Lower right: inside the church of San Marco. It was here that the “Messa da Requiem” for Alessandro Manzoni was celebrated under the direction of Giuseppe Verdi in 1874. The church’s extraordinary acoustics make it a favourite concert venue for the most important institutes of music in Milan.

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1

CIVICO MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO

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SAN MAURIZIO

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RUINS OF THE IMPERIAL PALACE

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RUINS OF THE ROMAN THEATRE AND FORUM

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SAN SEPOLCRO

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ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

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SAN LORENZO MAGGIORE

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PARCO DELLE BASILICHE

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SANT’EUSTORGIO

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SAN NAZARO MAGGIORE

2 Ancient Roman and 11

SAN SIMPLICIANO

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SANT’AMBROGIO

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PIAZZA DEI MERCANTI

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PALAZZO DELLA RAGIONE

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CAMPANILE DI SAN GOTTARDO IN CORTE

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SANTO STEFANO MAGGIORE

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SAN BERNARDINO ALLE OSSA

16 Roman columns dating back to the Imperial age stand before the facade of San Lorenzo Maggiore. In the middle is a bronze copy of the statue of Emperor Constantine recalling the Edict of Milan.

Few traces remain of the Milan that was the capital city of the Western Roman Empire, as its monuments have been demolished over the ages to reuse the building materials. To get an idea of what the city was like in those days, start at the Civico Museo Archeologico [> p. 26], an archaeological museum housed in the extraordinary setting of an 8th century monastery, Monastero Maggiore di San Maurizio, of which only the church of San Maurizio [> p. 19] remains along with the entrance cloister. The park inside the museum contains the only surviving tower from the ancient Roman walls, called Torre di Ansperto. This was the location of a 1st century A.D. home and a big Roman circus, of which one of the two square towers still stands, transformed into a bell tower for the church. The ruins of a building that was part of the imposing Imperial Palace, the Palazzo imperiale built towards the end of the 3rd century, are visible in nearby via Brisa, where we may also see the remains of ancient Roman baths. The late 1st century B.C. Theatre is buried underneath the Palazzo della Borsa [> p. 24], home to the city’s stock exchange, in Piazza degli Affari (open to visitors on request only). Of course the city of Mediolanum also had a Forum (1st century A.D.), underneath the Biblioteca Ambrosiana [> p. 28]; its floor is now visible in the lower church of San Sepolcro [> p. 19]. The Roman city had places for entertainment and places of worship outside the city gates; just outside Porta Ticinese was an Amphiteatre built in the 2nd to 3rd century – now part of the Parco Archeologico, archaeological site in via De Amicis 17, joined to “Alda Levi” Antiquarium – and the basilica of San Lorenzo Maggiore [> p. 18]. The church, built in the 4th and 5th centuries, has maintained its original form, and

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the adjacent chapel preserves Roman and paleochristian artefacts. We now cross the Parco delle Basiliche [> p. 37] to Sant’Eustorgio [> p. 20], a basilica with a complex layout (dating back to the 7th to 12th centuries) incorporating the structure of a paleochristian chapel and tombs. Bishop Ambrose had three other basilicas built in addition to San Lorenzo Maggiore: San Nazaro Maggiore [> p. 19], in corso di Porta Romana, San Simpliciano [> p. 20], behind via Solferino, and the “basilica Martyrum” now known as Sant’Ambrogio [> p. 20], a splendid example of the Lombard Romanesque style. All three offer specimens of late Roman and paleochristian sculpture. The medieval city centre was built around the Duomo. Piazza dei Mercanti, home to Palazzo della Ragione [> p. 23] and Palazzo dei Giureconsulti [> p. 23], was the centre of civic life in the middle ages, and it was under its arcades that traders, money changers and notaries met to discuss business. Behind the cathedral, incorporated in the rear part of the Palazzo Reale, is a red brick bell tower: it and the apse are all that remains of the 14th century palatine church of San Gottardo in Corte. Across via Larga, in little Piazza Santo Stefano, are two more places of worship: the basilica of Santo Stefano Maggiore – Romanesque but altered in the 16th and 19th centuries – and the medieval church of San Bernardino alle Ossa, known for its Ossuary Chapel, with its unusual decorations made up of human bones.

Medieval Milan

Behind the basilica of San Lorenzo is Piazza Vetra, where alleged witches and malefactors were executed. A statue of St. Lazarus stands on the exact spot where the condemned breathed their last.

«...(Milan) shines adorned by the various aspects of a perspicuous culture…» Anonymous Lombard, 8th century

Top left: the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre, an imposing arena measuring about 160 x 125 m. Top right: the diatreta trivulzia is a 4th century Roman cage cup, a glass vessel in a cage made by an unknown technology, now in the Civico Museo Archeologico. Below: Piazza dei Mercanti with the well in the middle (dating back to the 16th century) which was originally on the other side, where the so-called “stone of the bankrupt” was located. This is where debtors sat before giving up all their property and being imprisoned in nearby “Malastalla” jail.

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1

“CA’ GRANDA”

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CASTELLO SFORZESCO

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SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE

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SAN VITTORE AL CORPO

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SANTA MARIA PRESSO SAN SATIRO

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SANT’ALESSANDRO

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SANT’EUFEMIA

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SANTA MARIA PRESSO SAN CELSO

3 The Renaissance and The Torre del Filarete is the tower characterising Castello Sforzesco, “recreated” on the basis of two sketches found by chance in the abbey of Chiaravalle and a farmhouse in Pozzobonelli. The round fountain ornamenting the piazza replaces the earlier “Torta di Spùs” (“Wedding Cake”) which was removed in the ‘60s to permit construction of the city’s first subway line.

On 12 April 1456 Duke Francesco Sforza laid the first stone of the “Ca’ Granda” and started work on the construction of what was to be Europe’s most advanced hospital of its day. Begun by Antonio Averulino, known as Filarete, it was the Ospedale Maggiore, the biggest hospital in Milan, until 1939: in 1943 it was severely damaged by bombs and then radically rebuilt. It is now home to the Università degli Studi, with its very long facade on via Festa del Perdono. At that time Filarete also worked on one of the best-known symbols of medieval and Renaissance Milan: Castello Sforzesco, transforming it from a fortress to a stately palace for the Duke. The work began in 1368 under Galeazzo II Visconti and the lords of Milan lived there until the 16th century, when it became a military citadel again. It risked demolition, but was restored and transformed starting in 1893 by Luca Beltrami, an architect interested in the study of antiquity. It is now an important cultural centre and home to the Musei del Castello [> p. 26]. Not far away is Santa Maria delle Grazie [> p. 20/26], a jewel of the Renaissance and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In this fascinating part of Milan we may find numerous memories of Leonardo da Vinci, not only in the former Dominican monastery next to the church where he painted his “Last Supper” but also in the garden behind Palazzo delle Stelline (across from the church), known as “Orti di Leonardo”, with the vineyard which Ludovico il Moro, Duke of Milan, had given Leonardo. The great Tuscan painter spent more than 20 years in Milan, where he painted the two versions of the “Virgin of the Rocks” and “Musician” (in the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana) and invented hydraulic machinery and war machines. Near the church (at via San Vittore 25), set back in a little piazza, is another of Italy’s most beautiful late Renaissance churches: the

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basilica of San Vittore al Corpo. Rebuilt between 1560 and 1602 by the Olivetans who lived in the nearby monastery (now home to the city’s science museum, Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia), the church has three naves decorated with white and gold plasterwork and 17th century canvases. Another suggested itinerary starts near the Duomo, in via Torino, home to the church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro, offering valuable testimony of Renaissance Milan. The most striking thing about the church’s tiny interior is the famous fake presbytery by Bramante, a painted virtual space creating the illusion of a deep apse. Continuing along the street, turn left into via Lupetta and walk to the piazza containing the church of Sant’Alessandro, built by the Barnabite Fathers in the 17th century. We are now in the Baroque age, and the facade and elegant bell towers suggest the atmosphere of the interior with its abundance of canvases. In nearby Corso Italia, the piazza of the same name is dominated by the church of Sant’Eufemia, a national monument preserving noteworthy 16th century paintings of the school of Leonardo. Continuing along the street, we come to the sanctuary of Santa Maria presso San Celso, a beautiful example of Lombard Renaissance architecture: the 16th century courtyard surrounded by arcades in front of the church is a true masterpiece. It is a centuries-old tradition that Milanese brides take a bouquet to the icon of the Madonna exhibited in this church right after their weddings.

the Baroque

Its perfect acoustics made the church of Sant’Eufemia the perfect location for recording Maria Callas singing opera in the ’50s: “I puritani”, “Cavalleria rusticana” and “La sonnambula”.

«Today, Milan is the most opulent and bounteous city of Italy.» Matteo Bandello

Left: the false presbytery designed by Bramante in the church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro. On the main altar is a votive fresco of the Madonna col Bambino, which is said to have bled when struck by a gambler’s dagger in the Middle Ages. Above: the arcade on the great inner courtyard of Ca’ Granda. Below: a section of the Spanish walls around the inner ring road. Only a portion of the original 10 km of walls is visible today.

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PALAZZO REALE

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PALAZZO ARCIVESCOVILE

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II

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SAN CARLO AL CORSO

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SAN BABILA

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PALAZZO SERBELLONI

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PALAZZI CASTIGLIONI E BOVARA

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VILLA BELGIOJOSO BONAPARTE O REALE

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PALAZZO DUGNANI

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ARCO DELLA PACE

4 The Neoclassical Age 11

ARENA CIVICA “GIANNI BRERA”

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GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

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TEATRO ALLA SCALA

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SAN FEDELE

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CASA DEGLI OMENONI

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PALAZZO BELGIOIOSO

When the court moved to Castello Sforzesco, Palazzo Reale became the seat of the Spanish government and then the Austrian governor, Archduke Ferdinand I, who thoroughly renovated it.

The 18th century was a time of intense construction in Milan, and the responsibility for the look of the new city lies above all with Giuseppe Piermarini, court architect of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria, who designed the Teatro alla Scala and renovated the Palazzo Reale [> p. 10/24] and, in 1770, the nearby Palazzo Arcivescovile in neoclassical style. The Porta Venezia area was another focus of the architect’s attention, as it was the gateway to the city for anyone arriving from Austria, which is why he constructed so many noble palaces there. An itinerary for discovery of this part of the city might start at the northeast corner of Piazza del Duomo, in Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. On the right is a very tall archway to the Galleria del Corso, and under the arcades on the opposite side we may observe, in a niche, the stone statue of a noble Roman in a toga, whose head has been replaced with that of a 10th century bishop. Known as “Omm de Preja” or “scior Carèra”, the statue was used as a notice-board in the early 19th century for affixing comments, messages and satirical notes. Where the street widens out near its end is the neoclassical church of San Carlo al Corso with its facade recalling a classical temple. Corso Vittorio Emanuele opens up into the piazza containing the old church of San Babila, one of the most important Romanesque churches in Milan (11th century), which was however reconstructed in neo-Romanesque style in the mid-19th century. If we turn into Corso Venezia, when we come to via San Damiano we will be struck by the majesty of Palazzo Serbelloni (1793): home to Napoleon, Metternich, Vittorio Emanuele II and Napoleon III, it is now the Press Circle, which organises conventions and events in the big Napoleonic Hall. Just beyond it are Palazzo Castiglioni [> p. 23] and

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Palazzo Bovara, in severe neoclassical style, famous for having hosted Stendhal in 1800. On the opposite side of Corso Venezia stands Palazzo Saporiti, built in 1812. In nearby via Palestro we may admire one of the most beautiful creations of neoclassical Milan: Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte, known as Villa Reale [> p. 24/31], with its beautiful garden [> p. 36]. In front of it is a park, Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli [> p. 36] designed by Piermarini in the Italian style. Right by the park is 18th-century Palazzo Dugnani [> p. 24/36]. In the early 19th century two new constructions were built in Milan: the Arco della Pace (in vast Piazza Sempione) and the Arena Civica [> p. 43], a look back at the world of antiquity. Going back to Piazza del Duomo, we may take a second itinerary starting with Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (built in the second half of the 19th century in honour of the King of Italy), a covered street which represented Italy’s first use of glass and iron as structural materials and joined the Duomo to La Scala. Piermarini’s Teatro alla Scala was inaugurated in 1778 with a melodrama by Antonio Salieri and became famous as a “temple of opera” under Arturo Toscanini (1898-1908). Behind the piazza is the church of San Fedele, completed in 1835. Not far away is via Omenoni with the beautiful Casa degli Omenoni (1562-1565) [> p. 22], leading to the little piazza containing Palazzo Belgioioso [> p. 22], commissioned of Piermarini in 1772.

The Galleria, with its 47 metre high dome, has been imitated repeatedly in Italy and abroad, and provided the model for construction of countless shopping centres in Canada and the United States.

and the 19th-Century Left: the church of San Carlo al Corso is a splendid neoclassical complex. Preceded by a Corinthian arcade, under a huge dome, the church is a variation on the Pantheon. Left, above: the inner courtyard of Palazzo Clerici, an example of 18th century patrician architecture in Milan. Left, below: Arena Civica “Gianni Brera” has hosted naval battles, circuses, and a skating rink. Buffalo Bill and his “circus” of caravans and real Indians performed a “Wild West Show” here in 1906.

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DUOMO

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SAN LORENZO MAGGIORE

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SAN MAURIZIO AL MONASTERO MAGGIORE

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SAN NAZARO MAGGIORE

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SAN SEPOLCRO

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SAN SIMPLICIANO

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SANT’AMBROGIO

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SANT’EUSTORGIO

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SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE

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SANTA MARIA INCORONATA

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The Great Churches Filarete, Leonardo Da Vinci, Bramante, Francesco di Giorgio Martini, Bernini, Bergognone, Luini, Gaudenzio Ferrari… these are only a few of the best-known artists who have made Milan and its churches so great.

“...From far away it looks as if it has been cut out of a sheet of white paper, but as we approach we realise that the lace cut-outs are undeniably made of white marble...”. So said Heinrich Heine in 1826, and the marvel we experience before the Duomo is still just the same today.

Duomo [> p. 10] Piazza del Duomo. The symbol of the Lombard capital; dedicated to Santa Maria Nascente (St. Mary Nascent). Construction started under Gian Galeazzo Visconti, most likely 1386, and its origins are legendary: the story is that the devil appeared to the lord of Milan one night, offering to save his life if he would build a huge church in which Satan’s image appears repeatedly. And the 96 Satanic gargoyles confirm the story… Construction continued until the 19th century, and in fact the people of Milan still speak of tasks that “take as long as

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the construction of the Duomo”. The impressive interior reveals the cathedral’s vertical Gothic spirit. It contains numerous works of art: the tomb of Gian Giacomo Medici by Leone Leoni (1563); a wooden choir (1572-1620); a Holy Nail from the Cross of Jesus preserved in a tabernacle inside a crucifix above the choir; a number of 15th and 16th century stained glass windows; the Candelabro Trivulzio, a bronze work largely of Gothic manufacture, of the German school; a Sundial; the Scurolo of San Carlo by Richini (1606) with an urn containing the body of Carlo Borromeo. San Lorenzo Maggiore [> p. 12] Corso di Porta Ticinese 39. Preceeded by an Imperial Roman colonnade, the basilica is a truly striking sight. Its essential features are those of a late 17th century church, but as it was

built incorporating a paleochristian building, it is considered the most important surviving testimony of Roman and paleochristian Milan. In its central interior, it is worth visiting the chapel of Sant’Aquilino with its 4th century mosaics. San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore [> p. 12] Corso Magenta 15. The church is a 16th century jewel, completely covered with frescoes on the inside, mostly by Bernardino Luini. San Nazaro Maggiore Piazza San Nazaro in Brolo 5. One of the four basilicas founded by Bishop Ambrose (382-386 A.D.), and one of the oldest in the city; the majority of the existing structure is original. Before it is

of Milan

the Trivulzio chapel (1512-1520 A.D.), mausoleum of the commander Gian Giacomo Trivulzio, buried here with his two wives. On the stone is a Latin text which some historians have translated into Milanese: “L’è staa mai cont i man in man” (he never did sit idle). San Sepolcro [> p. 12] Piazza San Sepolcro. Built in 1030 in the Forum of Roman Milan, it was rebuilt by the founder’s greatgrandson when he got back from the first crusade (1096-1099) in imitation of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem. The sarcophagus in the centre of the nave is said to contain soil from the Holy City brought back by the Crusaders and a lock of Mary Magdalene’s hair.

According to an ancient tradition, the Duomo is where risotto alla milanese was “born”, invented by a boy who worked for the stained glass artist Valerio di Fiandra, nicknamed “zafferano” for his habit of adding spices to his colours. One day he put some saffron in the rice as well, and the result was a great success!

«Amidst your stones and your mists/I holiday. I rest in Piazza / del Duomo. Instead of stars/it lights up with words every night...» Umberto Saba, Milano

Left: the great Renaissance tribune on the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie was built by Ludovico il Moro as a family tomb. Left, above: the interior of the church of San Maurizio, with frescoes by prominent 16 century Lombard artists. Left, below: the church of San Sepolcro appears in many of Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings - perhaps the artist was struck by its unusual configuration – demonstrating that the structure was practically the same then as it is now.

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5 4 Next to the basilica of Sant’Ambrogio is a Roman column. According to the legend, the two holes in it were made by the devil’s horns when he was “nailed” here by St. Ambrose.

In a compartment in the Portinari chapel is an urn containing the skull of St. Peter the Martyr, who traditionally protects against headache. The Inquisition took place in the nearby convent.

San Simpliciano Piazza San Simpliciano 7. The last of the four basilicas St. Ambrose had built on the outskirts of the city. Of Romanesque construction, founded in the 4th century and rebuilt in the 19th century, it contains a fresco by Bergognone, “Coronation of the Virgin” (1515). Organ concerts are regularly held here. Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio [> p. 13] Piazza Sant’Ambrogio 15. Bishop Ambrose founded the basilica in 379 as a “basilica Martyrum” on the tombs of Saints Gervasius and Protasius and was himself buried here in 397. Its current Romanesque appearance is the result of thorough changes and reconstructions between the 9th and

that starts at the Duomo at Epiphany. The bell tower also recalls the Three Wise Men, for in place of the cross it has an 8-tipped star like the one that guided them to Bethlehem at its tip. Since 2011, the facade and the chapels have been permanently lit up at night. But the true jewel of the basilica is the Portinari Chapel, the highlight of Renaissance architecture in Milan, entirely covered with frescoes, with the upper parts by Vincenzo Foppa (1466-1468). Santa Maria delle Grazie [> p. 14/26] Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2. A splendid example of Renaissance architecture, best known for Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, the Cenacolo di Leonardo [> p. 14/26], with an

The Great Churches of Milan 12th centuries as well as modern restoration work. Before the basilica is the solemn foyer of Ansperto, concealing the facade from passersby on the street. Inside the church are a 10th century ciborium above the gold altar, a masterpiece of the Carolingian goldsmiths’ art, and the crypt. The apse is decorated with a big 6th to 8th century mosaic. Sant’Eustorgio [> p. 13] Piazza Sant’Eustorgio. Behind the facade, redone in Romanesque style in 1862-1865, stands another very important and ancient place of worship. The basilica is a stratified construction including parts from the 7th, 11th and 12th centuries. Linked with the worship and relics of the Three Wise Men, which tradition would have brought to the city by St. Eustorgius, the church is the end point of the parade of the Three Wise Men

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imposing Renaissance tribune added in 1492. In the oldest part of the church (in the Gothic style) are frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari and Marco d’Oggiono, as well as a monument to Ludovico il Moro. The 15th century “Madonna delle Grazie” in the left chapel of the tribune was much venerated during the plagues of the 16th and 17th century. In the chapel on the right was Titian’s “Crowning with thorns”, which the French took to Paris in the late 18th century, now in the Louvre. A door on the left leads to a little cloister attributed to Bramante. Santa Maria Incoronata Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 116. It has a bipartite facade which is reflected in the interior with its twin naves. The two buildings were probably originally separate and only joined together later on (1484).

Left: the dome of the Portinari Chapel in the basilica of Sant’Eustorgio. The frescoes concealed under seven layers of plaster were restored to their original splendour by restoration work between 1952 and 1965. Lower left: the interior of the basilica of San Simpliciano contains the relics of three martyrs: Sisinius, Martirius and Alessandro. Lower right: the Ansperto foyer, a majestic courtyard flanked by double arcades leading to the basilica of Sant’Ambrogio.

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1

ARENGARIO

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CASA DEGLI OMENONI

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CASA DI MANZONI

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CASA FONTANA SILVESTRI

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GRATTACIELO PIRELLI

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PALAZZO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

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PALAZZO BELGIOIOSO

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PALAZZO BORROMEO

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PALAZZO CASTIGLIONI

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PALAZZO CLERICI

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PALAZZO DEI GIURECONSULTI

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PALAZZO DEL SENATO

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PALAZZO DELLA RAGIONE

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PALAZZO DELLE STELLINE

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PALAZZO DI GIUSTIZIA

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PALAZZO DUGNANI

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PALAZZO LITTA

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PALAZZO LOMBARDIA

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PALAZZO MARINO

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PALAZZO MEZZANOTTE

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PALAZZO REALE

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PALAZZO SAPORITI

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TORRE VELASCA

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VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO

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VILLA REALE

The twin Arengario buildings in Piazza del Duomo.

The Buildings Milan’s buildings are part of the city’s cultural heritage, telling the city’s long history in different styles for different ages. Arengario [> p. 10/30] Piazza Duomo. The twin pavilions of the Arengario were designed in the thirties to give the piazza a more monumental appearance. They now house the Museo del Novecento. Casa degli Omenoni [> p. 17] Via Omenoni 3. Eight statues of men (“omenoni”) decorate the facade of the 16th century residence of Charles V’s sculptor, Leone Leoni. Casa di Alessandro Manzoni Via Morone 1. The home where the writer lived with his family between 1814 and 1873, now containing the Museo Manzoniano. Casa Fontana Silvestri Corso Venezia 10. A Renaissance

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palace (1475), one of Milan’s oldest homes, with a beautiful courtyard and 14th century ruins. Grattacielo Pirelli [> p. 30] Piazza Duca d’Aosta. Home to the offices of the Region of Lombardy since 1978. 127 metres high, it was designed by Gio Ponti and associates in collaboration with Pier Luigi Nervi. On 18 April 2002 a small plane crashed into the skyscraper; a memorial on the 26th floor commemorates the victims of the accident. Palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi Via Santo Spirito 10/via Gesù 5. A 19th century home built to imitate a 16th century palace, now containing the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi. Palazzo Belgioioso [> p. 17] Piazza Belgioioso 1. A neoclassical work built in 1772-81 by Piermarini, inspired by Luigi Vanvitelli’s Reggia di Caserta. Considered one of the city’s architectural treasures.

of Milan Palazzo Borromeo Piazza Borromeo 10. An example of a home in the Gothic style, with late Gothic frescoes in one of the rooms inside (private, but open to visitors on appointment only). Palazzo Castiglioni [> p. 16] Corso Venezia 47. By Giuseppe Sommaruga (1900-1904), is the emblem of Italian Art Nouveau. Palazzo Clerici Via Clerici 5. Home to ISPI, the Institute for International Political Studies, this 18th century building has a Tapestry Gallery with a vaulted ceiling featuring frescoes by Tiepolo (1741); on the walls are four 17th century tapestries. Guided tours may be booked at www.ispionline.it Palazzo dei Giureconsulti [> p. 13] Piazza Mercanti. All that remains of the original building constructed in 1561 is the name, for the building has been

«Man has never looked so small as in the Galleria» Franz Kafka

repeatedly renovated and now houses the city’s Chamber of Commerce. Palazzo del Senato Via Senato 10. Built in the 17th century, it was home to the Senate under Napoleon’s rule and now contains the National Archives. Across from the building is a bronze sculpture by Joan Miró. Palazzo della Ragione [> p. 13] Piazza Mercanti. Also known as Broletto Nuovo, a true symbol of the Middle Ages in Lombardy. Built in 1233, it contained the offices of the City until 1789. It has a single majestic hall: the Sala della Ragione. Across from it is the Loggia degli Osii, built in 1316, the loggia from which the magistrates proclaimed their edicts and sentences. Palazzo delle Stelline Corso Magenta 61. A 16th century palace which is now a landmark for the city’s cultural life and congresses. It was originally the “Ospedale dei mendicanti”,

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Clockwise: the grand staircase of Palazzo Castiglioni; the Valtellina style bedroom in Museo Bagatti-Valsecchi; the rococo facade of Palazzo Litta; the Alessi room in Palazzo Marino and the current reception hall.

Alessi hall in Palazzo Marino is where Manzoni’s remains lay in state in 1873.

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a charitable institution which became the city’s principal orphanage for girls. The term “stella”, star, is still used in Milan to refer to little girls. The building now contains Museo Martinitt e Stelline, documenting the orphanage. Palazzo di Giustizia Corso di Porta Vittoria 20. Piacentini and Rapisardi built this building in 1932-1940 in response to the fascist regime’s demand for monumental constructions: it contains 1,200 rooms and 65 courtrooms arranged on four levels around a monumental courtyard. Palazzo Dugnani [> p. 17/36] Via Manin 2. An 18th century palace containing a ballroom decorated with frescoes by Tiepolo (open to visitors on appointment only). One of the most

Palazzo Mezzanotte [> p. 12] Piazza degli Affari. Historic home to the Stock Exchange, built in 1931 by Paolo Mezzanotte on the site of an ancient Roman theatre dating back to the age of Augustine. Palazzo Reale [> p. 10/16] Piazza del Duomo 12. A 14th century duke’s palace converted to its current form by Piermarini (1778). One of Milan’s most important exhibition centres; in 1951 Pablo Picasso chose it as the site for his “Guernica”, as an emblem of the destruction of war, as the building had been heavily bombed In 1943 and lost all the decorations in its halls. Torre Velasca [> p. 30] Piazza Velasca 5. A 26 floor skyscraper built in 1956 -1957 by studio BBPR

The Buildings of Milan popular buildings for parties and gatherings of nobles between 1758 and 1846. Palazzo Litta Corso Magenta 24. Built in 1648 by Francesco Maria Richini, with a beautiful rococo facade and a dramatic arcaded courtyard. Palazzo Lombardia Via Restelli, via Melchiorre Gioia. Italy’s tallest building, 161.30 metres high. At the top of the tower is a statue of the Madonnina, a smaller copy of the one on the Duomo, like the one which has always been on top of the Pirelli building. Palazzo Marino [> p. 10] Piazza della Scala 2. A palace built in 1558 for tax collector Tomaso Marino which then became the seat of the city government until 1860. The wall overlooking Teatro alla Scala dates from 1889. This is where the Nun of Monza in Manzoni’s “The Betrothed” was born.

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(Banfi, Belgiojoso, Peressutti, Rogers). Its unusual shape makes it a well-known landmark on the city’s skyline. It was added to the protected buildings list in 2011. Villa Necchi Campiglio [> p. 30] Via Mozart 14. This museum-home designed by Milanese architect Portaluppi (1932-1935) marks the beginning of the Rationalist movement in modern architecture. Since 2001 it has been owned by FAI – Fondo per l’Ambiente Italiano. Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte or Villa Reale [> p. 17/31] Via Palestro 16. An outstanding example of Milanese neoclassical architecture, built in 1790 by Leopold Pollack, the villa has a courtyard on the side facing the street, while its facade provides the backdrop for an English-style garden. It was home to Napoleon and Eugenio di Beauharnais, as well as Radetzky, who died there (1857-1858). It now contains the Galleria di Arte Moderna.

Left: Giovanni Battista Tiepolo’s 1731 frescoes decorate the ballroom in Palazzo Dugnani. Lower left: one of the inner courtyards in the 17th century Palazzo del Senato. The double order of loggias was something truly new at the time, and was very well received. Lower right: the home of Alessandro Manzoni where the author is said to have held spiritualist sessions and experiments with magnetism, much in vogue at the time.

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1

CASA MUSEO BOSCHI DI STEFANO

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CENACOLO VINCIANO

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CIVICO MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO

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GALLERIE D’ITALIA

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MUSEO INTERATTIVO DEL CINEMA

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MUSEI DEL CASTELLO SFORZESCO

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MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

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MUSEO DEL DUOMO

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MUSEO DEL ‘900

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MUSEO DELLA PERMANENTE

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MUSEO DIOCESANO

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MUSEO INTER E MILAN

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MUSEO E CASA DI ALESSANDRO MANZONI

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MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI

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MUSEO STUDIO FRANCESCO MESSINA

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MUSEO TEATRALE ALLA SCALA

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PALAZZO MORANDO COSTUME MODA IMMAGINE

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PINACOTECA DI BRERA

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MUSEO DEL RISORGIMENTO

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VENERANDA BIBLIOTECA AMBROSIANA

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WOW SPAZIO FUMETTO

Basket of fruit (1594-1598) a work by Caravaggio on exhibit in the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana.

The Museums How many museums are there in Milan? A lot! The city offers unique glimpses of every form of culture, from figurative art to the sciences, from ancient history to the recent past. Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano Via Jan 15. Contains a selection of more than 200 works donated to the City of Milan: masterpieces by Carrà, Fontana, De Chirico, Sironi, De Pisis, Boccioni... Cenacolo di Leonardo [> p. 14/20] Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie. The dining hall of the monastery Santa Maria delle Grazie contains one of Italy’s best-known masterpieces of art: Leonardo Da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” (1495-1497), on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1980. May be viewed with reservations only. Civico Museo Archeologico [> p. 12] Corso Magenta 15. Archaeological finds from Roman and medieval Milan,

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with an Etruscan section, a Greek section, an Early Middle Ages section and a special exhibition on music. Gallerie d’Italia Via Manzoni 10. The collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo in the halls of the 18th century Palazzo Anguissola and the 19th century Palazzo Brentani contain 200 19th century Italian works, from Canova’s bas-reliefs to Boccioni. Museo interattivo del Cinema (MIC) Viale Fulvio Testi 121. Interactive film museum featuring exhibits about the origins of film, images from some of the many films made in Milan, games. Musei del Castello Sforzesco [> p. 14] Piazza Castello. Its art collections are what make Castello Sforzesco a top cultural attraction. Worth seeing: Museo d’Arte Antica (ancient sculptures from Lombardy and elsewhere, from the 4th to the 16th century; Michelangelo’s Pietà Rondanini); Pinacoteca (230 13th to 18th century

Italian paintings, mainly from Lombardy and the Veneto); Museo della Preistoria e Protostoria (museum of prehistory); Museo Egizio (Egyptian museum); Museo degli Strumenti Musicali (museum of 15th to 20th century musical instruments); Civiche Raccolte d’Arte Applicata (collections of applied arts: ivory, glass, majolica and ceramics and the “Arazzi dei Mesi Trivulzio” 16th century tapestries). Museo Bagatti Valsecchi Via S. Spirito 10 / via Gesù 5. In one of Europe’s best preserved museum homes, splendid 15th and 16th century artefacts and an unusual collection of fireplaces. Museo del Duomo Piazza Duomo 14. Opened in 1953, the museum exhibits all the material used or rejected in planning the cathedral.

of Milan

Museo del Novecento Palazzo dell’Arengario, Via Marconi 1. 400 selected works of 20th century Italian art belonging to the Civic Art Collections of the City of Milan. Museo della Permanente Via Turati 34. A vast collection of works from the late 19th and 20th centuries and a specialised library documenting the history of the Società per le Belle Arti ed Esposizione Permanente, an important institution on the art scene in Milan. Museo Diocesano Corso di Porta Ticinese 95. The basilica and cloisters of Sant’Eustorgio contain treasures of art and artefacts testifying to the faith of the people of the diocese. Works from the museum of the Basilica di

Leonardo da Vinci worked on The Last Supper alternating intense sessions with long absences, and the Prior of the church complained to Ludovico il Moro that he was not working very hard.

«The Last Supper is amazing, comparable only to the frescoes of antiquity...» Rainer Maria Rilke

Left: Leonardo’s Last Supper. It is a miracle that we can still see the fresco, for in August 1943 a bomb destroyed most of the church, leaving intact only the wooden wall protecting Leonardo’s fresco. Lower left: the courtyard of Palazzo di Brera with the statue of Napoleon depicted as a victorious nude demi-god in its centre. Lower right: Portrait of a Girl, Pollaiolo’s best preserved and one of his most successful portraits, in Museo Poldi Pezzoli.

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Sant’Ambrogio and the Fondi Oro A. Crespi collection (about 40 14th and 15th century Tuscan and Umbrian paintings on wood). Museo Inter e Milan Piazzale Angelo Moratti - Stadio San Siro. The first museum in an Italian football stadium, telling the story of the city’s two teams, Inter and Milan, through unique memorabilia (shirts, cups, trophies). Museo e Casa di Alessandro Manzoni Via Gerolamo Morone 1. A museum in the home where writer Alessandro Manzoni lived. Museo Poldi Pezzoli Via Manzoni 12. A typical Milanese museum-home. The collection includes 14th to 19th century paintings and great masterpieces by Pollaiolo, Botticelli, Piero della Francesca…

collections of paintings, primarily works from the Lombard and Venetian schools of the 15th and 16th century. Established in the late 18th century as a collection of models for students at the Accademia, it now includes more than 400 works spanning from the 14th century to the avant-garde movements. It contains numerous masterpieces including, to mention only a few: Mantegna’s “Lamentation of Christ”, Bellini’s “Pietà”, Tintoretto’s “Finding of the body of St. Mark”, Raphael’s “The Marriage of the Virgin”, Caravaggio’s “Supper at Emmaus”... Museo del Risorgimento Via Borgonuovo 23. In 18th century Palazzo Moriggia, Italian history between 1796 and 1870.

The Museums of Milan Museo Studio Francesco Messina Ex Chiesa di San Sisto, Via San Sisto 4/A. 80 sculptures and 26 works on paper selected from among Francesco Messina’s most important works. Museo Teatrale alla Scala Largo Ghiringhelli 1. Vintage prints, artefacts, costumes and scenery sketches, to find out all about the theatre in the 19th century. Palazzo Morando Costume Moda Immagine Via Sant’Andrea 6. Major collections of fabrics, clothes and accessories originally included in the Civiche Raccolte d’Arte Applicata in Castello Sforzesco and items from the vast collection of the former Museo di Milano (paintings, sculptures, prints on the evolution of urban planning and society in Milan in the late 18th century and the 19th century). Pinacoteca di Brera [> p. 11] Via Brera 28. One of Italy’s biggest

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Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana Pinacoteca Ambrosiana Piazza Pio XI 2. The size and value of its collections make the Biblioteca Ambrosiana one of the world’s oldest and most complete historic libraries. It includes the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, established by Federico Borromeo in 1618, which now has more than 2,000 paintings, sculptures and fittings, gold items, natural artefacts and various products of the applied arts, as well as more than 22,000 drawings. It includes universally recognised masterpieces such as the precious cartoon for Raphael’s “School of Athens” and “Portrait of a Musician”, Leonardo’s only painting on wood made in Milan. WOW Spazio Fumetto Viale Campania 12. In 2011 Fondazione Franco Fossati opened this original space for exhibitions, events, courses and workshops focusing on the ninth art: cartoons.

Left: the hall in the tower in the Arengario dedicated to Lucio Fontana, containing his Struttura al neon (1951). Lower left: Michelangelo’s Pietà Rondanini, now in the Musei del Castello. This seems to have been the artist’s last sculpture, for he worked on it until only a few days before he died. Lower right: the 18th century Gallerie d’Italia in Palazzo Anguissola Antona Traversi.

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1

GAM

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TRIENNALE DESIGN MUSEUM

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EX AREA ANSALDO

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FABBRICA DEL VAPORE (STEAM FACTORY)

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HANGAR BICOCCA

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PAC

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ROTONDA IN VIA BESANA

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SPAZIO OBERDAN

8 Needle, thread and knot, a sculpture by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen at the centre of Piazzale Cadorna, is an unusual reference to the industriousness and fashion soul of Milan.

Contemporary Art During the early 20th century, the architecture of Milan was deeply transformed by modernism and by modernity, moving from the decorative Art Nouveau to the sleeker Art Deco. The Stazione Centrale, designed by Ulisse Stacchini in 1912, epitomises this transition. The thirties were a time of monumental architecture, as can be seen in the public buildings Palazzo di Giustizia [> p. 24], Arengario [> p. 10/22] and Palazzo dell’Arte, home to the Triennale, and in the private Villa Necchi Campiglio [> p. 24], noted for its elegant purity of line. The search for a new style that would represent the city’s economic rebirth, exalting its modernity and functionality, lead to the construction of the Torre Velasca [> p. 24] in 1958 (close to the Università Statale, at the end of via Larga) and of the Grattacielo Pirelli (1955-60) [> p. 22].

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Milan is a melting pot of styles and trends. Here, modern art and society come together to give life to an extraordinary wealth of works and ideas. The new millennium has brought with it an era of growth for the capital of Lombardy, a growth which touches all areas of society and which sees the involvement of some of the greatest exponents of national and international architecture. Contemporary beauty and historical charm are the leitmotifs of the city’s great renovation projects involving former brownfield sites. The city’s traditional landmarks of fashion, creativity, study, opera, contemporary art, technology, transport, business and finance, have been, and continue to be, flanked by a series of new centres involving entire areas of the city. Bovisa-Certosa, for example, has been injected with new life by the addition of the new Politecnico site, while City

in Milan Life is redefining the historical Fiera area, and the World Jewellery Center, the Portello district. Other projects have already been completed, such as the Bicocca ex Pirelli area, whose former industrial backdrop sets the scene for the Università degli Studi, a number of research centres, the great Teatro degli Arcimboldi, and corporate premises aplenty, as well as the Nuovo Polo Fieristico di Rho-Pero (Rho-Pero Trade Fair) and the new premises of the local regional authorities, Regione Lombardia. In this context, Expo Milano 2015 will serve as a driving force to create a more attractive city with a central role in international social and economic development. Ever forward-looking, Milan keeps a keen eye on new artistic trends, and prides itself on its innovative exhibition spaces. Future projects include the

«Skyscrapers have transformed the lives of the Milanese…» Alberto Savinio, Ascolto il tuo cuore, città (Listen to your heart, city)

Museo di Arte Contemporanea (MAC) in the residential and business district currently under construction, City Life. GAM Galleria d’Arte Moderna Via Palestro 16. A visit to the GAM gallery is a two-fold pleasure, enabling patrons to enjoy the interiors of Villa Reale [> p. 17/24] and admire hundreds of paintings from one of the richest collections of 19th century art in Italy (Museo dell’Ottocento, Museum of 19th Century Art). The exhibition opens with Neoclassicism, moving through Romanticism, Realism and the Scapigliatura movement, to end with Divisionism. Over time, the Gallery has been enriched with the Grassi Collection (works by Italian and foreign 19th and 20th century artists), the Collezione Vismara (a collection of masterpieces of Italian and foreign modern and contemporary art, ranging

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Left: the 106m tall Torre Velasca contains offices and shops on the lower floors and apartments on the upper floors. Centre: the Grattacielo Pirelli, known locally as the “Pirellone”, was the highest building in Milan for almost 50 years. Right: Palazzo Lombardia, the new site of Regione Lombardia.

from Picasso to Morandi) and the Museo Marino Marini (providing an overview of the artist’s career through his sculptures). Triennale Design Museum Viale Alemagna 6. Opened in 2007, this is the first and only museum dedicated to Italian design in all its manifestations. The Triennale Design Museum, a unique museum of its kind in Italy, situated on the historical premises of the Triennale, continuously renews itself, offering ever new and diversified exhibitions. In addition to the traditional exhibition spaces of the Palazzo Reale, Museo del Novecento (Museum of 20th Century Art), Palazzo della Ragione and Castello

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Hangar Bicocca Via Chiese 2. A former industrial plant painted entirely in dark blue, home to contemporary art exhibitions, research projects and training sessions. The permanent installation, “I Sette Palazzi Celesti” (“The Seven Heavenly Palaces”) by Anselm Kiefer, is well worth a visit. PAC Padiglione di Arte Contemporanea Via Palestro 16. The PAC is situated in a courtyard of the Villa Reale, once home to stables destroyed during the war. Designed by Ignazio Gardella (1948-1954), it was rebuilt by the architect, following the original design, after it was almost destroyed by a deadly mafia bomb in 1993. The venue organises exclusively temporary

Contemporary Art in Milan Sforzesco, Milan offers countless experimental venues for young talents and every form of artistic expression. Ex Area Ansaldo Via Tortona 54. The 70,000 sqm of the former Ansaldo factory house the Museo delle Culture del Mondo (Museum of World Cultures), featuring a series of important exhibitions on intercultural and multimedia projects opening in the autumn of 2012. Fabbrica del Vapore (Steam Factory) Via Procaccini 4. The Milan City Council conceived this facility especially for its younger generations. The former steam engine and tram factory has been transformed into a “creative workshop” offering a full schedule of exhibitions and educational and cultural initiatives throughout the year.

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exhibitions featuring a wide range of well-established international artists. Rotonda in Via Besana Via Enrico Besana 12. This typically 18th century monument was built in 1695 as a cemetery for the dead of the Ospedale Maggiore, a large hospital that was housed in the nearby Ca’Granda. It comprises the Chiesa di San Michele surrounded by a circular arcade. Dedicated to the children of Milan and their creative flair, it houses exhibitions of various kinds. Spazio Oberdan Viale Vittorio Veneto 2. One of the best known multifunctional centres in Milan, organising artistic projects of international repute. The exhibition hall is situated on the first floor. The venue comprises a 700 sq.m exhibition area for art and photography exhibitions and a 200-seat auditorium hosting film reviews.

Left: the new building of the Università Commerciale Luigi Bocconi, winner of the “World Building of the Year Award”. Lower left: entrance to Palazzo dell’Arte, home to the Triennale, built between 1932 and 1933. Lower right: Hangar Bicocca, an exhibition, research and training centre; below, the Fabbrica del Vapore, a youth centre for cultural production.

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1

ACQUARIO CIVICO AND STAZIONE IDROBIOLOGICA

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CIVICO MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE

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CIVICO PLANETARIO “ULRICO HOEPLI”

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MUSEO ASTRONOMICO DI BRERA

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MUSEO NAZIONALE DELLA SCIENZA E DELLA TECNOLOGIA “LEONARDO DA VINCI”

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ORTO BOTANICO DI BRERA

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Milan: a City With Italy’s largest Science and Technology Museum, Milan has a scientific side which children adore and adults find amazing.

The Enrico Toti submarine is the first submarine built in Italy after World War II. It can now be seen at the Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia.

Acquario Civico and Stazione Idrobiologica Viale Gadio 2. One of the world’s oldest aquariums, located in Parco Sempione, in an Art Nouveau building with aquatic-themed exterior features. Over one hundred species of fish, crustaceans, mollusks and echinoderms from the Mediterranean Sea, Red Sea and Italian freshwaters live here. In addition, educational routes teach visitors about the water cycle and fishing. On the same site as the aquarium are the Stazione Idrobiologica and a Biblioteca (Library) specializing in marine biology and aquatic sciences.

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Civico Museo di Storia Naturale [> p. 36] Corso Venezia 55. The Natural History Museum preserves animals, fossils, dinosaurs, spectacular colourful dioramas and plastic reconstructions, in Italy’s most significant collection of its kind. A few must-sees are a 20m long whale skeleton that was found on the coasts of Sardinia and a model of a pteranodon, a flying reptile from 70 million years ago which hangs from the ceiling. The specialized library contains 30,000 books, 200 periodicals and 60,000 booklets; the prominent collections of insects, birds, minerals, rocks and fossils are especially intended for scholars. Civico Planetario “Ulrico Hoepli” [> p. 36] Corso Venezia 57. Built in 1929 by Piero Portaluppi, on behalf of the publisher Ulrich Hoepli who then donated it to the city, the Planetarium consists of a large domed room with

of Science special equipment in the centre that simulates the complex motions of celestial bodies. Museo Astronomico di Brera Via Brera 28. The Astronomic Museum contains instruments that belonged to the Osservatorio Astronomico, created in 1760 to study the stars, and is recognized as the oldest scientific research institute of the city. Outfitted in 1983, it preserves its ancient instrumentation. Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” Via San Vittore 21. Housed in a 16th century former Olivetan monastery, this museum is one of the largest and most documented European collections dedicated to the evolution of scientific thought. A visit will require several hours and may be divided over more than one day, according to interest. If you want to get a general overview,

«The people of Milan are always cheerful and inquisitive. They’re a pleasure to watch.» Jacob Burckhardt

you should immediately go to the first floor dedicated to Leonardo, then the two spectacular outdoor pavilions on train, air and naval transportation, and finally the ground floor with its history of energy, mining, steel, metal and land transportation. Since December 2005, the museum also houses the Toti submarine. Its arrival in August of 2005 was followed by thousands of Milanese locals and was a true “event”: it arrived into the city by river and by road in the middle of the night to avoid blocking traffic. Orto Botanico di Brera Via Brera 28. Founded in 1774, the botanical gardens cover about 5,000 square metres and are shaded by large trees. Amongst the most spectacular plants are two giant gingko biloba trees dating back to the time of the garden’s foundation and a linden tree 30 metres high.

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Left: immersed in the greenery of the Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli is the Civico Museo di Storia Naturale, one of the largest natural history museums in Europe. Top: the entrance to the Civico Planetario; inaugurated in 1930, it is one of Italy’s largest planetariums. Below: the interior of the Acquario Civico, updated in 2003-2006.

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GIARDINO DELLA GUASTALLA

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GIARDINI PUBBLICI INDRO MONTANELLI EX GIARDINI PUBBLICI DI PORTA VENEZIA

3

GIARDINO DELLA VILLA COMUNALE

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PARCO GIOVANNI PAOLO II EX PARCO DELLE BASILICHE

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PARCO SEMPIONE

6

THE NAVIGLI AND THE CITY’S WATERWAYS

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Parks and The Navigli, canals lined by narrow alleyways and traditional houses with communal balconies, and the city’s “green oases”, with their picnic, entertainment and sports areas, preserve the feel of yesteryear Milan.

The Alzaia del Naviglio Grande still offers a glimpse of the Milan of yesteryear. The Navigli were the first examples of hydraulic engineering in Lombardy (12th century). Its innovative system of locks, still visible today, was partly conceived by Leonardo da Vinci.

Giardino della Guastalla Via Guastalla. This well concealed secret corner was once annexed to the Guastalla college for girls. Age-old trees provide the backdrop for the fish pond with stone balustrades, a jewel of Baroque architecture. The Jewish temple (1890-92) is situated opposite the entrance. Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli ex Giardini Pubblici di Porta Venezia Bastioni di Porta Venezia, via Manin, via Palestro, corso Venezia. This was the first park of Milan designed for public use. Created by Piermarini in the late 18th century, the park

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underwent several refurbishments throughout the years. In 2002 it was renamed after the late journalist Indro Montanelli (1909-2001). The park comprises a number of important buildings, such as the Palazzo Dugnani [> p. 17/24]; the Civico Museo di Storia Naturale [> p. 34] and the Planetario “Ulrico Hoepli” [> p. 34]. Giardino della Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte ex Giardino della Villa Comunale Via Palestro. This is one of the earliest English-style gardens in Milan, created at the request of the count Lodovico Barbiano of Belgiojoso, an important member of the Milanese nobility and of the Hapsburg court. It is entirely devoted to children and accompanying adults. A small waterfall gushes out of the rocks and trickles down into a stream that

Waterways crosses the park, ending in a small lake featuring an island with a small circular temple. Parco Giovanni Paolo II ex Parco delle Basiliche Via Molino delle Armi. The park is nestled between the basilicas of San Lorenzo and Sant’Eustorgio. It was developed in 1953 with the idea of creating an “archaeological walkway” uniting the apses of these two important churches. Parco Sempione Piazza Castello. The largest Englishstyle park in Milan is entirely fenced in and includes numerous recreational areas. It owes its name to its position along the line that leads through the Arco della Pace, from the Duomo to the Simplon Pass. The Castello Sforzesco, Arena, Arco della Pace, Triennale and Acquario Civico stand along the park’s perimeter.

«...the Naviglio is worth 50 gold ducats, and yields 125,000 ducats a year. It is 40 miles long and 20 ells wide...» Leonardo Da Vinci

The Navigli and the City’s Waterways Although far from Italy’s great rivers and seas, Milan, like Venice, was for many centuries a navigable city due to an intricate system of canals that once crisscrossed the city. Back then, the city had a circular canal – the Cerchia dei Navigli – connected to three small ports: Santo Stefano (now Piazza Santo Stefano), San Marco (Piazza San Marco) and Sant’Eustorgio, which later became the Darsena di Porta Ticinese (Basin of Porta Ticinese). Connected to the Cerchia dei Navigli through the Conca dei Navigli, still visible today in the street of the same name, the Darsena’s waters flow in from the Naviglio Grande and then out again into the Naviglio Pavese (the two canals flow in opposite directions), thus creating a “water circuit” that for centuries constituted the city’s main means of provisioning

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Top: the monumental facade of the Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte, or Villa Reale. Top left: a tree-lined path through the Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli. Top right: the view from the balustrades of the fish pond in the Giardino della Guastalla spans across the lawns, as far as the city.

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and trade, through flat-bottomed barges drawn by horses (or men, when required) along the so-called Alzaie, or towpaths. Today, the first stretch of the Naviglio Grande – the oldest of the two navigable canals, dating back to the 13th century – still features its characteristic low-rise period buildings, and is enlivened by numerous venues, pubs and restaurants, making it one of the city’s trendiest areas. On the last Sunday of every month it hosts an open-air “antiques fair”. Further along the Alzaia del Naviglio Grande lies the Vicolo dei Lavandai, a narrow alleyway featuring old stone washtubs. Heading in the direction of the suburbs, one comes upon the attractive church of San Cristoforo al

ancient and complex history. To the south of the Villoresi canal, the system of Navigli includes the Naviglio della Martesana, or Naviglio Piccolo (1460), that connects Milan to the Adda River, from which it receives its waters. Several cycling paths lie along the canal, spanning from via De Marchi to Cassano d’Adda, 30 km outside Milan. On the occasion of the great Expo Milano 2015, the city is to have a new waterway that will contribute to the panoramic and environmental enhancement of the open spaces to the west of the city and to the improvement and preservation of the city’s historical irrigation network. The “Via d’Acqua” (“Waterway”) project will see the creation of a direct link

Parks and Waterways Naviglio, made up of two buildings, one Romanesque and the other Gothic. Boatmen travelling from the Ticino River used to consider the church’s 15th century bell tower a lighthouse indicating the proximity of Milan. The Naviglio Pavese flows out of the Darsena for a stretch of 33 km, where it flows into the Ticino River, close to Pavia. A number of barges, now transformed into bars and pubs, can be seen moored along the left bank (via Ascanio Sforza). The canal was made navigable as late as 1819, and along its tract it is still possible to see12 locks (decommissioned in 1978) that allowed the barges to overcome the 52 metre difference in elevation between the arrival and departure points. Along the Naviglio Pavese, it is worth visiting the Chiesa Rossa (or Red Church, named after its characteristic red bricks), with its

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between the Darsena and the site of Expo Milano 2015 along a route that starts with the Naviglio Grande and then continues northwards along the new canal. This waterway will connect the Villoresi and Naviglio Grande canals, and is to feature a 125 km circuit of cycle paths: a blue-green ring “road” that starts at the dams of Panperduto, reaches as far as the Parco delle Groane and the Naviglio Grande, and then turns back along the Alzaia. A great public park of around 800 hectares is also to be developed, connecting three of the city’s green areas: Parco delle Cave, Boscoincittà and Parco di Trenno. The “Via d’Acqua” project and the refurbishment of the Darsena will be the most concrete endowments of the Expo Milano 2015 to the city and its surroundings, giving back to Milan an extraordinary freshwater network.

Left: the Arco della Pace, in the far corner of the Parco Sempione, is one of Milan’s most characteristic Neoclassical monuments. Started in 1807 as a tribute to Napoleon, it was dedicated in 1838 to Francis I of Austria and in 1859 to the independence of Italy. Lower left: the Naviglio della Martesana, also known as the Naviglio Piccolo. Lower right: plan of the “Via d’Acqua” project which envisages the creation of a direct link between the Darsena and the site of Expo Milano 2015.

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1

CORSO BUENOS AIRES

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CORSO DI PORTA TICINESE

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II

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QUADRILATERO DELLA MODA

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VIA PAOLO SARPI

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VIA SAVONA, VIA TORTONA, VIA BERGOGNONE

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VIA TORINO

11 Via Monte Napoleone, or “Montenapo” for Milanese locals, is a symbol of luxury, exclusive shopping and is undoubtedly the most elegant street in the city.

Shopping When it comes to shopping in Milan one primarily thinks of fashion; after all, this is nerve centre of the “Made in Italy” industry. The showrooms of all Italian manufacturers are located here, and it’s where buyers for worldwide distribution find the one and only “Italian style”. Milanese fashion is about luxury, but it also offers innovative ideas. Outside the fashion district - a must for those who want to buy designer apparel and accessories - almost everything can be found, from large international brands to small boutiques. But shopping in Milan also means exploring the many local open-air markets where all kinds of goods can be purchased, from groceries to clothing, and where one can look for furniture, decorative items and works of art amongst the numerous antique shops in the Brera and Navigli areas. Not to mention Milan’s famous culinary classics, recipients of the DE.co denomination (Denominazione Comunale, or Municipal Denomination) covering typical products such as the cotoletta alla milanese, ossobuco, risotto, cassoeula, and panettone, but also characteristic dishes that are on the “endangered list”, so to speak. It is no coincidence, then, that there are still so many historic shops in Milan, part of the city’s heritage as well as a point of reference for the Milanese people and tourists. Corso Buenos Aires is 1,200 metres long and has more than 350 shops to meet everyone’s needs. It is one of Europe’s most famous shopping streets. Corso di Porta Ticinese is the right place for those looking for alternative shops and boutiques, for vintage clothing and ethnic and natural products. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II is a classic for downtown promenades, which has been a pedestrian area since 1985. Here you’ll find numerous shops, especially

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for clothing and low cost department stores, in addition to Rinascente, the true “temple” of Milanese shopping. With 8 floors, it truly offers everything even an opportunity to lunch with a close-up view of the Duomo’s spires. The fashion district: via Monte Napoleone, via Manzoni, via della Spiga and corso Venezia are the four streets that make up an imaginary square where the shops and ateliers of the most important names in fashion are concentrated. First and foremost of these Milanese streets is Monte Napoleone, which is considered one of the fifteen most luxurious and expensive streets in the world. Walking in this area is like diving into beauty and unbridled wealth. During the fashion shows, the whole area becomes one big social event, and aristocrats’ courtyards and buildings are often open to curious visitors. Via Paolo Sarpi with its neighbouring via Canonica is Milan’s Chinatown. The shops are generally less expensive, but offer quality products. Via Savona, Via Tortona, Via Bergognone are full of “pop-up shops”, stores that are open for a limited period of time (a few weeks). It is the perfect area to find quality and trendy pieces, including designer and multi-brand spaces. Via Torino was once a street of craftsmen’s workshops; now it is one of the major centres of Milanese shopping for all tastes and budgets (with numerous low-cost clothing chain stores).

in Milan

Many legends have flourished through the centuries around the birth of the “pane di Toni” (literally the “bread of Toni”, as it was called in the 18th century), but it was Angelo Motta who made “panettone” a symbol of Milan in the 20th century by cooking it in a paper cylinder, giving it its present form.

«To the hastiest observation, Milan could hardly seem lacking in interest.» Edith Wharton

Left: the seventh floor of the Rinascente department store, named by Gabriele D’Annunzio, offers an amazing view of the Duomo’s spires. Lower left: there are many delicatessens in the city that boast a long history. The best are those that have retained their charm, furniture, style and service over time. Lower right: in the heart of Milan there are many innovative shopping areas combining fashion, art, beauty and food.

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1

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

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AUDITORIUM

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CONSERVATORIO GIUSEPPE VERDI

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TEATRO DEGLI ARCIMBOLDI

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TEATRO DAL VERME

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TEATRO NUOVO

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BLUE NOTE

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SCIMMIE

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LA SALUMERIA DELLA MUSICA

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PICCOLO TEATRO DI MILANO

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TEATRO GRASSI

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TEATRO STUDIO

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TEATRO STREHLER

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TEATRO F. PARENTI

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TEATRO FILODRAMMATICI

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TEATRIDITHALIA

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CRT TEATRO DELL’ARTE

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TEATRO CARCANO

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TEATRI MANZONI, NAZIONALE, S. BABILA

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TEATRO CIAK

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AREA ZELIG CABARET

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STADIO SAN SIRO “GIUSEPPE MEAZZA”

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IPPODROMI SAN SIRO

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LIDO DI MILANO

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IDROSCALO

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ARENA CIVICA “GIANNI BRERA”

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VELODROMO VIGORELLI

The Scala’s boxes were all remade except for one, which survived the 1943 bombings.

Entertainment, Milan is a city that creates its own trends: art galleries in bars, concerts in libraries, aperitifs in grand hotels - it is a “cool” city where there is room for every form of expression, whether it be opera, theatre, entertainment, music or sports. Music Some of the world’s most renowned artists perform in Milan. Performances (operas, ballets, concerts) at the Teatro alla Scala are not to be missed, where the season begins on 7 December, the day of St. Ambrose, patron saint of Milan. Its stage equipment has been renovated (2001-2004) and now the operatic powerhouse is up to par with the largest theatres in Europe and the world. Offering a more intensive musical program is the Auditorium, home of the Orchestra Sinfonica and Coro di Milano Giuseppe Verdi, the Conservatorio

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Giuseppe Verdi (auditorium Sala Verdi at the Conservatorio, Sala Puccini in the Conservatorio), the Teatro degli Arcimboldi, a one-of-a-kind structure in terms of its construction, acoustics and visuals, theTeatro Dal Verme and the Teatro Nuovo. Many concerts are held in churches, most notably at the Basilica di San Marco. For blues and jazz enthusiasts, Blue Note offers an excellent selection of concerts, alternating foreign and well-known Italian stars, and historic venues like the Scimmie and La Salumeria della Musica are a “must” for fans of the genre. Theatres From theatre to cabaret, Milan offers a vast range of shows. The Piccolo Teatro di Milano, the first civic theatre in Italy, is an institution - actually three, because over the years, from the primordial Piccolo Teatro on via Rovello (now

Sports and Leisure called the Teatro Grassi), it has been accompanied by the Teatro Studio and the Teatro Strehler. They put on in-house productions and host prestigious foreign performances, as does the Teatro Franco Parenti. A more traditional repertoire takes place at the Teatro Filodrammatici, while more experimental shows take place at the Teatro dell’Elfo Teatridithalia and the CRT Teatro dell’Arte. Ranging from drama, dance, varieties and musicals, are the Carcano, Manzoni, Nazionale, and San Babila theatres. The most highly-esteemed cabarets are theTeatro Ciak and at the Area Zelig Cabaret, a historical venue which also has a successful television show, filmed at the Teatro degli Arcimboldi. Sports All types of sports are played in the city, and many significant international matches take place here. Milan is the only

«San Siro was the swellest course I’d ever seen.» Ernest Hemingway

city in Europe whose two football teams (Internazionale and A.C. Milan) have won the Champions League. Football finds its home at the Stadio San Siro “Giuseppe Meazza” which can be visited with a tour of its adjoining museum [> p. 28]. Since 1920, the equine world has had prestigious accommodations at the Ippodromi San Siro, where the most famous standardbreds have trotted. Basketball and volleyball can be played at the Palalido. Beside it, the Lido di Milano is a large pool with waterslides, umbrellas and beach chairs, open from June until September. The Idroscalo, an artificial lake, lends itself to canoeing, rowing, and motor boating. Great athletes will find their place at the Arena Civica “Gianni Brera”, where the Giro d’Italia arrives each year. Cycling is also the protagonist at the Velodromo Vigorelli, where Coppi, Anquetil and Moser set records.

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Top left: the Piccolo Teatro di Milano Teatro d’Europa Teatro Strehler on Largo Greppi. Right: the Teatro degli Arcimboldi. Lower left: the Stadio San Siro; centre: the Cavallo di Leonardo, a large bronze statue inspired by Leonardo’s drawings, located in front of the Parco dell’Ippodromo di Milano; right: a jazz show.

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ABBAZIA DI CHIARAVALLE

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ABBAZIA DI VIBOLDONE

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ABBAZIA DI MIRASOLE

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ABBAZIA DI MORIMONDO

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CRUISING DOWN THE NAVIGLI

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MONZA AND ITS VILLA

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Outside Milan A trip outside town will lead you to discover the “Bassa Milanese” area with its medieval abbeys, the city of Monza, and the city’s complex “water system”: in Milan you can!

The Giardini della Villa Reale di Monza took shape between 1778 and 1783. Piermarini integrated the typical Italian garden with elements of British origin, dividing the gardens into English gardens, orchards and botanical gardens complete with wild animals.

Abbazia di Chiaravalle Via Sant’Arialdo 102, Chiaravalle Milanese. In the green of the Parco Agricolo Sud di Milano and easily reachable by public transportation (bus 77 from Piazza Medaglie d’Oro) one can visit the abbey which was the cornerstone of the agricultural development of the southern hinterland of Milan. Founded in 1135, it is marked by a conspicuous steeple, a brick and marble tower, called “ciribiciaccola” in a nursery rhyme in Milanese dialect. The church (1172-1221) is a must-see, along with the remains of the Gothic cloister (13th century) and the chapter house with graffiti by Bramante and frescoes.

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Abbazia di Viboldone Via dell’Abbazia 7, San Giuliano Milanese. It is located 12 km from Milan, following the highway towards Lodi. Only the church remains of the abbey founded on 5 February 1176 by the Umiliati order, and it is one of the most important Lombard Gothic constructions. It contains beautiful 14th century frescoes by Giotto’s pupils. Abbazia di Mirasole Strada Consortile del Mirasole, Opera. Ten kilometres from the city, this architectural complex - founded in the first half of the 13th century by the Umiliati order - includes church buildings alongside working areas (stables, farmyard, weaving mills). Not surprisingly, the modern structure of the Lombard farmhouse takes inspiration from this type of building. Mirasole has preserved the original structure of the 14th century Santa

«Brianza is the most attractive area of Italy.» Henry Beyle Stendhal

Maria Assunta church as well as the bell tower and the abbey’s prized cloister. Abbazia di Morimondo Piazza S. Bernardo 1, Morimondo. Thirty kilometres from Milan, this Cistercian abbey was the first building of its kind in Lombardy and the fourth in Italy. Its period of greatest splendor was between the 13th and 14th centuries. The church (1182-1292) is well preserved. During the Christmas season a beautiful display of nativity scenes takes place. Cruise down the Navigli To learn about the landscape of the Milanese area, several smaller cruises are offered, starting from the Alzaia del Naviglio Grande; they offer a historical immersion while sailing the same waters of ships from olden times, passing through routes in the Naviglio Grande and Pavese. For more detailed information, visit www.naviglilombardi.it

Monza and its Villa Mostly famous for its racing circuit, Monza can be easily reached from Milan by public transportation (train and bus from the Stazione Centrale). The town’s main monument is its Gothic Duomo (13th-14th century) accompanied by a bell tower from 1606. The altar of Teodolinda’s chapel – frescoed by the Zavattari (1444) – contains the Corona del Ferro, the iron crown said to have been made with a nail from Christ’s cross. Covered with gold and studded with gems (5th-8th centuries), it was used from the Middle Ages on to crown the kings of Italy. Not to be missed is the magnificent Villa Reale (1777-1870), residence of the Habsburg court erected under the leadership of Piermarini; King Umberto I was killed here in 1900. The racing circuit (1922) is located in the Park, created in 1806.

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Left: The Abbazia di Chiaravalle with its beautiful bell tower. Centre, above: minicruise along Milan’s Navigli. Centre, below: the sober interior of the Abbazia di Morimondo is characterized by its brickwork Right: details of the frescoes in the chiesa abbaziale di Viboldone.

The Universal Exposition has only been held once on Italian soil, in 1906: the host city was Milan. At that time the theme was transportation, and it marked the inauguration of the MilanParis railway. More than a hundred years later, the Universal Exposition, or simply “Expo”, will return to Italy - once again in Milan. Entitled “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”, this Expo’s theme is of great current relevance and value: food in all its forms, from the issue of lack of food to nutritionary education and environmental sustainability. From 1 May to 31 October 2015, Italy will be the world’s epicentre for discussion of a fundamental theme, on which the heads of state and government present will speak. It will be an important opportunity for discussion and dialogue, with specific insights on issues related to the use of drinking water and its availability, the quality and safety of food and the promotion of healthy lifestyles. The event will address key topics for research and technological innovation in the food chain, with an emphasis on “dietary customs” and biological sustainability.

Expo Milano 2015

The Expo Milano 2015 site will act as a Smart City, offering visitors a one-of-a-kind experience. Over the course of the exhibition’s six months, over 7,000 activities will take place that will involve the site as well as the entire city, including shows, concerts and cultural events. La Scala Theatre will offer a packed calendar of events and will be open every day, and the Milanese theatre system as a whole will host a program of international calibre. To accommodate the large number of visitors (an estimated 20 million people are expected to attend), Milan has planned the construction of a large complex to the northwest of the city. The site was designed by Expo Milano 2015 architects with the support of internationally renowned professionals. The exhibition area occupies 110 hectares adjacent to the Fiera di Milano hub, and consists of large open areas and pavilions designed to accommodate the event’s various sections. Conceived as an island surrounded by a channel of water, the Expo area is structured according to the perpendicular axes of ancient Roman cities, the cardo and decumano; 27,900 sqm are destined for large areas reproducing the world’s agro-ecosystems.

“feeding the planet, energy for life”

Masterplan of the Expo Milano 2015 exhibition site.

• Tourist Information IAT (Informazioni e Assistenza Turistica) in Piazza Castello and in the Stazione Centrale (first floor, facing tracks 13/14). Opening hours: Mon.-Fri. 9:00-18:00, Sat. 9:00-18:00, Sun. and holidays 9:00-13:30/14:00-17:00, closed 25 December, 1 January, 1 May.

of cars and bikes which can be picked up and dropped off at one of their rental locations. 11 lines of public transportation run all night long on Fridays and Saturdays, and for the younger crowd there is also the Bus by Night, a minibus in service from 2:00 until 5:10 in the morning.

• How to Get Around Milan is built in concentric rings starting from the Piazza del Duomo. It is easy (and recommended) to get around the city using the public transportation services offered by ATM (Azienda Trasporti Milanese, www.atm-mi.it). The bus, tram, metro (M1 Red Line, M2 Green Line, M3 Yellow Line) and the railway link all reach as far as the

• Area C and Parking In 2012 the Area C congestion charge came into effect, with fee-based access to the Cerchia dei Bastioni Zona a Traffico Limitato (Limited Traffic Zone, ZTL) Mon.-Fri. 7:30 - 19:30; vehicles with high emissions are prohibited from entering. In many areas of the city parking is subject to payment (Sosta Milano card).

Useful Information city’s outskirts. Many metro stations and ground transportation vehicles are wheelchair accessible. The city’s tourist areas are well-served. All kinds of tickets are available to meet different needs: from a single ticket (1.50 euro, valid for 90 minutes from the time of validation, allowing one entry to the metro, railway or railway link), a 10-trip tickets (13.80 euro for 10 trips), day tickets (4.50 euro, valid for 24 hours from the time of validation, permitting travel across the municipal area without restriction on the urban railway system operated by Trenord, including the railway link), and two-day tickets (8.25 euro, valid for 48 hours from the time of validation). In addition to taxis, the city offers alternative forms of transportation such as car sharing and bike sharing (www.bikemi.com), permitting rental

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Make sure to park only in areas outlined by blue lines (parking areas in yellow are for residents only). • Sightseeing Tours To get an idea of what the city is like, take a quick tour on a tourist bus (City Tour by ATM, City Sightseeing Milano-Zani Viaggi, Autostradale). It is also possible to hire a car with a driver (from a limousine to a tour bus) to take personalised routes and panoramic tours.

Detailed information regarding opening and visiting hours and ticket prices for Milan’s museums and churches can be found at www.turismo.milano.it

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Metro automatico per Ospedale S. Raffaele Automatic train to S. Raffaele Hospital Linee ferroviarie suburbane Suburban railways Linee ferroviarie regionali Regional railways Stazione accessibile Accessible station ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point: Information and retail

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