Graham County Gardening Newsletter February/March 2003

One Dry, Warm Winter – Frost Protection? I’m sure you all have noticed that the weather lately has been a little warmer than normal. In fact the month of January has experienced many days with above normal temperatures. What does this mean? Well, plants just like any living organism responds to the environment around it. As temperatures rise, the metabolic activity within the plant begins to increase. This increase in temperature triggers the onset of other processes such as bud break. Don’t be surprised if you begin to see some of your fruit trees develop early blossoms. So with the current weather trends, why talk about frost protection? Even though we are experiencing warm temperatures now, the inevitable cold front will pass through the valley and freeze those tender, young blossoms having the potential of wiping out our fruit crop for the 2003 season. What can you do? The first thing is to monitor the local weather forecasts. The National Weather Service (NWS) does an excellent job of predicting and issuing freeze warnings for our valley. NWS weather radio is constantly broadcasting local weather conditions on 162.55 MHz. If you have local cable, The Weather Channel also warns of potential freezing temperatures. If you have Internet access NWS has an excellent website that is continuously updated with current watches and warnings. The address is http://www.nws.noaa.gov. From here you can type in your city and obtain current weather information instantaneously. So what do you do when you have those tender blossoms out in the field and you know there is a good probability of freezing temperatures? There is something you can do to protect those plants. It is important to understand that during the day the soil beneath the tree will absorb heat from the sun. As the air temperature lowers after sunset, the soil will reradiate the heat that was absorbed during the day. This provides a source of energy to moderate the temperatures in the plant canopy to reduce the probability of damaging temperatures. One way in which to trap this heat is by placing a covering over the tree canopy. Sheets or blankets (not plastic) will help moderate the temperature. A properly applied frost cloth can protect a tree or shrub down to as low as 20oF depending on the fabric and the weave. Ideally, a frost cloth would be supported by a frame not allowing it to touch the foliage. Do not gather the cloth around the trunk of the tree. Allow the cloth to fall to the ground. This will help trap heat being radiated from the soil below. Other techniques have also proven successful in protecting young tender trees and plants. High watt electric lights have been used to produce heat around a tree to provide protection. Applying water to the ground at the base of the tree late night and early morning will also provide some protection. As the water temperature cools, energy in the form of heat is released. For more detailed information on gardening call the Cooperative Extension Office at 928.428.2611

Randall Norton, Ph.D. Extension Agriculture Agent

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, James A. Christenson, Director, Cooperative Extension, College of Agriculture & Life Sciences, The University of Arizona. The University of Arizona College of Agriculture & Life Sciences is an Equal Opportunity employer authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to sex, religion, color, national origin, age, Vietnam Era Veteran’s status, or disability

In the February Garden:

In the March Garden:

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Fertilize winter ryegrass lawns with 2.5 lbs ammonium sulfate per 1000 square feet. Start preparing your garden soil for the upcoming season. Add compost and organic matter and work in 2 lbs of ammonium phosphate and 3 lbs of soil sulfur per 1000 square feet. Start cantaloupe, cucumber, eggplant, okra, pepper, pumpkin, summer squash, tomato, and watermelon seeds indoors. Plant asparagus, beets, carrots, chard, onion plants, potatoes, radishes, and spinach all month. Plant kale and leaf lettuce through February 15th. Set out perennials and cool season annuals such as, calendula, chrysanthemums, dianthus, daisies, larkspur, pansies, snapdragons, stock, and viola. Continue planting bare rooted trees, roses, grapes, and cane berries. Check your irrigation system now to make sure it is not plugged and is operating correctly. Finish pruning deciduous trees and shrubs before the buds swell Between rains (if we get any), irrigate deep rooted plants occasionally, but thoroughly. Shallow rooted plants require water more often.

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Fertilize fruit trees, shrubs, and vines. Water deeply. Pine trees require very little fertilizer, if at all. Fertilize roses and water deeply. Prune frost damaged branches as new growth starts. Watch for weeds when they are small and remove them before they get big. Continue to plant carrots (through the 15th), beets, chard, and radishes for succession planting. Begin planting bush beans March 1st and cantaloupe, corn, summer squash, sunflowers, and watermelon after March 15th. Protect seedlings if frost is forecast. Average date of last frost is April 9th. Tomato transplants can be set out (with protection) after March 15th. Plant ground covers, perennials and hardy vines. Some warm season annuals can be set out, although they may need protection from frost.

Graham County Master Gardener Happenings Upcoming Events: January 31

Volunteer Recognition Dinner

February 6

Master Gardener Executive Board Meeting 6:00pm Phelps Dodge Room Safford/Graham County Library.

February 6

Presentation on Budding and Grafting Rob Call, Cochise County Extension Agent - Horticulture 7:00pm Phelps Dodge Room - Safford/Graham County Library. Sponsored by UA Graham County Master Gardener Association Refreshments provided by Sue Martin

February 8

JMG Training Phase II / Edu-venture Curriculum Safford Agricultural Center 9am - 2:30 pm. Cost $10.00 to include materials and lunch Contact [email protected] or [email protected]

February 10

Sterilization of the Greenhouse 9:15 am at the Safford Agricultural Center Contact [email protected]

February 13

Vegetable seed trial planting Greenhouse 9:15 am -Safford Agricultural Center. Contact [email protected]

February 20-21

High On the Desert Conference - Sierra Vista, AZ. Windemere Hotel & Conference Center For more information see ag.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/

March 13

Association Meeting - Susan Syfert’s Home 6:30pm The Oleo Ranch 830 S. 20th Ave Safford

March 21-22

Youth Gardening Conference - Tucson, AZ U of A Campus and Pima County Cooperative Extension For more Information see ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens/growingawareness

March 29

JMG Curriculum Spring “Basic” Training - 9am - 2:30 pm Phelps Dodge Room - Safford/Graham County Library Cost $10.00 to include materials and lunch Contact [email protected] or [email protected]

April 1-3

Water Field Days 4th Grade Safford Agricultural Center Contact [email protected]

May 3

3rd Annual Home Garden Tour 9am - 2pm Sponsored by Graham County Master Gardener Association Contact [email protected]

Congratulations Joe Dugan!!! Joe has completed his 50 hours for certification in the Master Gardener program. We will be awarding him his name badge at the annual Volunteer Recognition Dinner. Many of his hours were spent taking care of the darling tomatoes in the vegetable trials.

Volunteers help make Pruning Demo a success. Master Gardeners were present and helping at the annual pruning demonstration. A special thanks goes to those who provided the snacks. The people added to the warm welcome to the public were Pat Brubaker, Perri Larson, Sue Martin, Ruth Anne Neff, and Marilyn Weaver. An extra special thanks goes to Diana Deiter, not only for her donation, but her willingness to arrange the snack table! Joe Dugan and Ralph McClellan staffed the tables as resource people.

Master Gardener Class Blast The Spring Gardening and Landscaping class is off to a great start. The pre-test scores started high and there have already been a few “scientific” discussions. The group’s strong learning interest really shows by the large percentage that is interested in the volunteer opportunities. Be sure to check the Gardening Happenings for the dates and contact people of upcoming activities.

THE COUNT IS IN!!!

Certified Master Gardeners, Associate Master Gardeners, Fellow Volunteers...... 1,232.75 hours of service in the year 2002 donated Thanks for your help in getting these hours turned in. This round was the easiest record keeping quarter yet. Keep up the great work.

Volunteer Spotlight Cindy Pearson has been the Administrative Assistant at the University of Arizona Graham County Cooperative Extension office since August 1995. She is known to volunteer whenever there is a need for The Master Gardener Program and goes beyond her job duties to help us out. She also serves as a 4-H volunteer, specifically with Teen Council and Community Club. She also provides teacher in service opportunities as well as providing instruction in Character Counts! to students in Graham County. Cindy and her husband Cliff, live in Ft. Thomas on the ranch where her husband is self-employed, which includes raising cattle, horses and maintaining the facilities. They three young adult children. Jake, who is currently in Oklahoma attending Army boot camp with the goal to become a Ranger, Stoney lives in Mesa, currently going to school and working, while their daughter Penny is living here and working in the EAC mailroom. Now that the children are raised Cindy, herself is going back to further her education. She is currently taking a Public Speaking class. We know that she has storytelling down!!! Cindy will tell one about her gardening ability - She feels that gardening is a learning experience, such as finding out that grapes “sticks” have an up and down direction and do not grow if they are planted upside down. If one suggests spraying her climbing rose bushes for aphid removal, it does not mean using the high powered nozzle at the car wash. She has a working knowledge of houseplants, she worked at Graham County Florist Shop, and she cares for all the plants that are in the office. Cindy has the ability and willingness to help anyone in a time of crisis. She has warmed the hearts of us who are around her, by being there when needed as a friend, as well as a coworker. Just do not give her chocolate as a gift!! There is one thing that she does have a negative attitude toward - - - - - - - - - Chocolate!!!

Indoor Plants Ten Tips for Indoor Plant Care 1. Don't Drown Your Plants: Roots need air as well as water - keeping your soil mix soaked at all times means certain death for most plants. Waterlogging kills by creating anaerobic conditions (no oxygen) and encouraging root rotting diseases. More plants die through overwatering than any other single cause. 2.Provide the Proper Temperature: Most indoor plants thrive between the 60 and 75oF. Plants tend to become weak and spindly if temperatures are kept above 75oF. Flowering plants will retain blossoms longer if kept in cooler temperatures 3. Provide Proper Lighting: Indoor plants vary greatly in their lighting requirements. Some require much more than others. Always be sure to check the light requirement when purchasing a new plant. If plants are not receiving enough light leaves will turn yellow and die. If plants appear spindly, they might be suffering from lack of sunlight. 4. Give Them Extra Humidity: The atmosphere of a centrally heated room in winter is as dry as desert air. Increase the air humidity by using a humidifier or placing plants in a moist area such as the kitchen or bathroom. 5. Treat Trouble Promptly: Expert or beginner, trouble will strike some time. One or two scale insects or mealy bugs are easily picked off; an infestation may be incurable. Overwatering is not fatal at first, but kills when prolonged. Learn to recognize the early signs of trouble. 6. Group Them Together: Nearly all plants look better and grow better when grouped together. The standard group consists of four to twelve clay or plastic pots closely grouped together to produce a pleasing arrangement in which both shapes and tints are varied. In the most usual grouping foliage plants are used to provide the permanent framework and flowering pot plants are used to provide splashes of color. 7. Learn To Repot: After a year or two most plants begin to look sickly. In many cases the plant simply needs repotting into a larger container. The best time to repot is in spring. Check the plants root ball each spring by turning the plant upside down and tap the pot. Remove the plant gently. If the roots are in a solid mass, they need to be repotted. 8. Feed Your Plants Regularly: Water your plants with a dilute fertilizer solution, especially during the summer. Prepare the solution by mixing one teaspoon of soluble fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. A fertilizer with analysis such as 20-20-20, 5-10-5, or 7-7-7 may be used. Apply once a month during the growing season. 9. Have The Proper Tools: Buy a watering can with a long, narrow spout and a mister for increasing humidity, reducing dust and controlling pests. You will need a reputable brand of compost and a collection of pots plus stakes and plant ties or string. Drip trays will keep water off the furniture; a bottle of liquid fertilizer and a safe pest killer will keep the plants looking healthy. 10. Check The Plant's Specific Needs: Look up the secrets of success in an A-Z guide for each plant. This will prove invaluable as you will detect problems, maintain healthy plants and realize what plant is best suited for a specific location.

Weed of the Month: Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) The common dandelion is a persistent perennial that reproduces by both seed and from short shoots developing from the crown. The dandelion has a large taproot that can grow several feet into the soil making it difficult to remove by hand weeding. The plant consists of a rosette of deeply lobed leaves. The unbranched flower stalk arises from the center of the rosette producing a broad yellow flower at maturity. This mature flower develops the characteristic white ‘puffball’ of seeds that can be carried great distances by animals or the wind. Dandelion is a common turfgrass (lawn) weed and can be found almost year around. The size of a mature plant is variable and can reach up to 2 feet if left uncut. Dandelion will easily survive in a lawn even if it is regularly mowed. Control of dandelion is fairly easy to achieve with selective herbicides. In an actively growing bermudagrass lawn this weed can be controlled with the use of a selective herbicides such as 2,4-D or dicamba. These herbicides are sold commercially in products like Weed B Gone or Weed and Feed. These products will control broadleaf weeds, such as dandelion, in an actively growing lawn without injury to the lawn. These can also be controlled in dormant lawns with broad spectrum herbicides like Roundup. Whenever you use any chemicals be sure to always read and follow label directions.

Graham County Master Gardener Presentation February 6, 2003 7:00 pm Phelps Dodge Room of the Safford/Graham County Public Library Plant Propagation, Budding and Grafting Rob Call, Cochise County Horticultural Agent Rob has taught the Master Gardening Class and works closely with the growers of the fruit and nut orchards in Cochise County. Urban Horticulture is his specialty.

Person with a disability may request accommodation, such as a sign language interpreter, by contacting UofA Graham County Cooperative Extension at 928-428-2611. Requests should be made as early as possible to allow time to arrange the accommodation.

ARIZONA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE THE UNIVERSIT Y OF ARIZONA TUCSON, AZ 85721

OFFICIAL BUSINESS PENALTY FOR PRIVAT E USE $300

PRSRT STD POSTAGE & FEES PAID USDA PERMIT NO. G-268