Make and style a hair addition

UV30500 K/600/8638 Learner name:

VRQ

Learner number:

VTCT is the specialist awarding body for the Hairdressing, Beauty Therapy, Complementary Therapy and Sport and Active Leisure sectors, with over 45 years of experience. VTCT is an awarding body regulated by national organisations including Ofqual, SQA, DCELLS and CCEA. VTCT is a registered charity investing in education and skills but also giving to good causes in the area of facial disfigurement.

Statement of unit achievement By signing this statement of unit achievement you are confirming that all learning outcomes, assessment criteria and range statements have been achieved under specified conditions and that the evidence gathered is authentic. This statement of unit achievement table must be completed prior to claiming certification.

Unit code

Date achieved

Learner signature

Assessor initials

IV signature (if sampled)

Assessor tracking table All assessors using this Record of Assessment book must complete this table. This is required for verification purposes.

Assessor name

Assessor signature

Assessors initials

Assessor number (optional)

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Make and style a hair addition The aim of this unit is to develop your skills to make a simple hair addition using the wig making technique of weaving a weft. This unit will take you through the planning stage of creating a mood board, producing your hair addition, styling the weft using permanent techniques and then incorporating it into your hair design. This is a very intricate technique and will need a high degree of manual dexterity. This unit is suitable for both hairdressers and barbers.

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Level

3 Credit value

7 GLH

60 Observation(s)

2 External paper(s)

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Make and style a hair addition

Learning outcomes On completion of this unit you will:

1.

Be able to make and style a hair addition

2.

Be able to develop a mood board

Evidence requirements 1.

Environment Evidence for this unit must be gathered in a real or realistic working environment.

2.

Simulation Simulation is not allowed in this unit. All ‘Observation’ outcomes must be on real clients.

3.

Observation outcomes Competent performance of ‘Observation’ outcomes must be demonstrated to your assessor on at least two occasions.

4.

Range All ranges must be practically demonstrated or other forms of evidence produced to show they have been covered.

5.

Knowledge outcomes There must be evidence that you possess all the knowledge and understanding listed in the ‘Knowledge’ section of this unit. This evidence may include projects, assignments, case studies, reflective accounts, oral/written questioning and/or other forms of evidence.

6.

Tutor/Assessor guidance You will be guided by your tutor/assessor on how to achieve learning outcomes and ranges in this unit. All outcomes and ranges must be achieved.

7.

External paper There is no external paper requirement for this unit.

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Achieving observations and range Achieving observation outcomes Your assessor will observe your performance of practical tasks. The minimum number of observations required is indicated in the evidence requirements section of this unit. Criteria may not always naturally occur during a practical observation. In such instances you will be asked questions to demonstrate your competence in this area. Your assessor will document the criteria that have been achieved through oral questioning. Your assessor will sign off an outcome when all criteria have been competently achieved in a single client service.

Achieving range The range section indicates what must be covered. Ranges should be practically demonstrated as part of an observation. Where this is not possible other forms of evidence may be produced. All ranges must be covered. Your assessor will document the portfolio reference once a range has been competently achieved.

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Maximum service times There are no maximum service times that apply to this unit.

Observations Outcome 1

Be able to make and style a hair addition You can:

a.

Communicate and behave in a professional manner

b.

Select products, tools, equipment and accessories to achieve the desired effect

c.

Produce a woven weft of hair on a weaving frame

d.

Produce a final finished hair addition

e.

Style the woven weft of hair using permanent styling techniques

f.

Present the final finished styled hair addition

g.

Provide suitable aftercare advice

h.

Record techniques, products, tools, equipment and accessories used to achieve the finished hair design

i.

Follow safe and hygienic working practices

j.

Evaluate the finished hair design

*May be assessed through oral questioning. Observation

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2

Optional

Date achieved Criteria questioned orally Portfolio reference Assessor initials Learner signature UV30500

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Range *You must practically demonstrate that you have: Considered all influencing factors

Portfolio reference

Desired finished result Haircut Hair length Hair texture Hair density Hair colour Degree of curl Head size and face shape and features

Produced all types of weft

Portfolio reference

2 strand 3 strand Short hair (minimum 15 cm) Long hair (minimum 20 cm)

Given all types of advice

Portfolio reference

Suitable aftercare products and their use Maintenance of the style

*It is strongly recommended that all range items are practically demonstrated. Where this is not possible, other forms of evidence may be produced to demonstrate competence.

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Developing knowledge

Achieving knowledge outcomes You will be guided by your tutor and assessor on the evidence that needs to be produced. Your knowledge and understanding will be assessed using the assessment methods listed below: • • • • • • • •

Where possible your assessor will integrate knowledge outcomes into practical observations through oral questioning.

Observed work Witness statements Audio-visual media Evidence of prior learning or attainment Written questions Oral questions Assignments Case studies

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Knowledge Outcome 1

Be able to make and style a hair addition You can:

k. Describe how to maintain hair additions l.

Describe hair styling techniques for hair additions for men and women

m. Describe the aftercare advice that should be provided n. Outline safe and hygienic working practices o. State how to communicate and behave within a salon environment *Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned. Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.

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Portfolio reference / Assessor initials*

Outcome 2

Be able to develop a mood board You can:

Portfolio reference / Assessor initials*

a. Develop a mood board which incorporates woven hair additions and accessories, and takes into account influencing factors

b. Describe how to develop a mood board c. Outline the purpose of a mood board d. Outline how to present a mood board which incorporates hair additions, accessories and ornamentation

e. Describe the main styles of wigs and hair additions used in historical civilisations and cultures

f.

Explain how wigs and hair additions are used in modern society

g. Describe the employment opportunities for wig making and hair additions specialists

h. Describe the influencing factors that need to be considered when creating a hair addition

*Assessor initials to be inserted if orally questioned. Requirements highlighted in white are assessed in the external paper.

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Unit content This section provides guidance on the recommended knowledge and skills required to enable you to achieve each of the learning outcomes in this unit. Your tutor/assessor will ensure you have the opportunity to cover all of the unit content.

Outcome 1: Be able to make and style a hair addition Professional communication in a salon environment: Try to avoid technical language, always respond, consider client confidentiality. Verbal – speaking (tone of voice, the language you use, how quickly and clearly), questioning (open, closed, probing). Non-verbal – body language, positive attitude (your posture, facial expressions, hand gestures, the distance you stand), listening (be patient, try to understand). Written – visual aids, magazines, client records. Behave professionally in a salon environment: Follow health and safety practice and procedure, salon code of conduct, respect others, value client(s), co‑operate with others (be sympathetic, fair, not aggressive), use appropriate language, avoid gossip, maintain confidentiality, polite/cheerful and friendly manner (friendly facial expressions, open body language, positive attitude, eye contact), sensible behaviour, team work, take pride in work, be punctual, employer and client loyalty. Products, tools, equipment and accessories used: Products – use manufacturers’ instructions for product use on wigs and hair pieces, using the wrong product can make the hair look matted and lank or have no effect, avoid product build-up. Natural hair – cleaning fluids

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(tricholerthylene fluids), neutralising rinse, styling lotions/gels, mousse, setting lotion, hair spray, dressing cream. Synthetic hair – only use shampoo and water to clean hair, (wax, serum or shine spray can be used). Tools and equipment – clamps, weaving sticks, drawing brushes, bees wax, jockey/ clip, hair, brigoudi, jigger, pinching irons, postiche oven, heater, boiling water, drying cabinet, malleable blocks of varying sizes, polythene to cover the block, block holder, postiche pins, personal protective equipment (gloves, towels), tape, rollers, clips, brushes, scissors, razor, cutting combs, hood dryer, hand dryer. Accessories – tissue paper, end paper, thread, weaving silk, paper, bowl, back mirror, hair net, wig box, neck brush, ornamentation (feathers, bows, buttons, beads, ribbon, additional hair, tiara, combs). How to produce a woven weft of hair on a weaving frame: Set up the weaving frame, number the silks, place prepared hair in brushes, draw off a fine section, hold in one hand, the hair is woven in and out of the silks, alternating the odd number silks in one direction with even number silks in the opposite direction, slide the weaving close to previously woven hair, place the jockey clip close to the weft, starting and finishing knots are required for all methods. Density of weft – number of times the hair is woven.

Outcome 1: Be able to make and style a hair addition (continued) 2 string fly weft – the finest of all weaving, a neat finish. Twice in weaving – slightly thicker than once. Thrice in weaving – thickest of all. Diamond mesh – has a wire in the weft. Types of hair additions: Pin curl weft – take a wire pin (looks like a roller pin), using pair of pliers bend up the ends, hook this into the weaving at the finished knot end and thread a needle with length of silk, match hair colour, stitch the pin curl through centre of weft/pin wire, cover metal pin completely, finish off with a silk cap. The sewing thread is continually wound around so there is a smooth edge between wire and hair, cover with tissue paper and press the cap between heated pinching irons. The torsade – piece of postiche that curls at 2 ends, secured in centre. Diamond mesh – normally worn on the crown, can be moulded and stitched into a pattern. Pin wave – a flat weft stitched in by blanket stitch, and finished with 6 loops from one side to the other. The marteau weft – has 2 loops and is stitched flat, both ends attached by grips. Pin curls – attached by placing a grip through the loop. Torsades/double loop clusters – one loop is formed at either end so can be attached by a grip. Permanent styling techniques: Frisure force is the name given to permanent curling.

Equipment required – bigoudis (wooden curlers various sizes), comb to assist with winding, pan of boiling water to make the permanent curl, drawing brushes for holding the hair, drying cabinet for drying the curls, pre-heat before use, jigger to hold the hair, end papers to protect hair ends neatly, towels to blot the hair, scissors and thread, when tying the hair into bundles, water jug. Method – secure the hair in the jigger, dampen hair with water (add small amount of acetatic acid, to help soften the hair), place end paper around the hair ends, evenly wind onto the bigoudi, secure the hair with the thread, place in a pan of boiling water for 30 minutes, remove carefully, blot on towel to remove excess water, place in the postiche oven until dry, cut the thread and remove the paper, pin curls may be styled by placing in pinching irons, permanent crimping can also be achieved, this hair is used for crepe pads or pompadour rolls, present the curl on a piece of A4 card or by attaching wired weft/ hair piece into the hair. Provide suitable aftercare advice: Important part of service, avoid technical language, maintain eye contact, suggest/ advise/recommend, provide information. Maintenance – frequency of visit, regular services, minimise chemical treatments, correct use of electrical equipment, product use and demonstration, stops them matting or loosening. Product information and use – demonstration, relevant literature/leaflet. Cleaning – after 12-15 wears synthetic or real hair. Styling tips – techniques, tools, electrical

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Outcome 1: Be able to make and style a hair addition (continued) appliance settings. Life span of addition – approx 9 months. How to maintain hair additions: Keep hair piece either pinned to a block or in a moth proof box, when not in use clean regularly, do not wear to bed, remove properly (avoid pulling on natural hair), attach safely to avoid damage to own hair (remove grips gently), brush with correct tools, clean with correct products. Complete client records: Manual or computer, contact information, type and colour of hair, the cost, hair piece required, tools and equipment, product usage, date of service, changes to service, contra‑indications, problems, cost of service, test results, aftercare, requirements for hair piece or wig (measurements), style required, estimated price of work to be carried out, date of fitting, the colour (attach a sample). Salon health and safety legislation and regulations: Health and safety at work, control of substances hazardous to health, reporting of injuries, diseases and dangerous occurrences, personal protective equipment, electricity at work, manual handling, supply of goods and services, trade description, data protection, employers’ liability (compulsory insurance), occupiers’ liability, local by-laws (set by council), salon rules, code of conduct, observance by all staff. Evaluate the service/results: What worked well/what did not, benefits, compare against original brief, end result, client satisfaction, draw conclusions. Hair styling techniques for hair additions: Synthetic hair – must only be washed in

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soapy water and left to dry naturally, they cannot be styled, as the hair will melt, pre‑set style will bounce back when dry. Natural hair: Roller setting – pin the postiche on a soft block, choose roller size (for style), dampen hair lightly, use neutralising lotion (if working on white hair), take clean sections (avoid pulling the knots), set in the required style, secure the rollers (without pulling the foundation and causing distortion), cover with a net, use tissue paper to prevent discolouration (if working on white hair), dry the postiche in a warm oven or hood dryer (white hair naturally or cool oven), after drying allow to cool, dressing out (with great care to avoid damage to the knots), carefully place net over the finished style and return wig to the oven to set the style, dressing cream to control the hair. Hair additions placed in style before the final dressing of the hair, make a large pin curl with slightly backcombed hair and slide the comb in which is attached to the weft, if the weft has no combs use grips to attach through the loops. Blow drying – may be used, be careful of disturbing the knots, dampen the hair lightly, if working with white hair use a neutralising lotion, blow dry as normal (gently).

Outcome 2: Be able to develop a mood board Mood board: Presentation tool used to display ideas/thought process, a poster, collage, collection of ideas, story behind an image, resources can include pictures, text, objects, materials, accessories, woven hair, (gives visual effect of design, ability to identify texture/feel/colour of woven hair, touches all senses).

Romans).

How to develop a mood board: Hard copy or electronic, begin with a brief/plan, focus on developing the sensory aspect, assemble a mosaic of source material, inspiring and relevant, create a collage, refer to brief, be creative, photograph large items that cannot be added, include hair swatches, additions, range of expressive visual media (magazines, newspapers, leaflets, photographs, leaflets collected from shops, galleries, museums, your own sketches, copies from other artists and designers), samples of (fabric, wallpaper, thread wool, sample cards from DIY stores), natural materials (leaves, flowers, stems, seed, pods, shells, feathers, stones).

16th century – fair, wavy on the top, tied in the neck (American colonials).

Purpose of a mood board: Communicate to target audience, set the scene/storyline, share concept, express mood/feelings behind image, visual aid, launch a project. How to present a mood board: Formal/ informal presentation, an actual board or via computer software, PowerPoint presentation, additional props/clothes/ make-up/accessories/jewellery, prepared speech/prompt cards, professionalism, varied communication skills (body language, tone, clarity, projection of voice), interpersonal skills. The historical use of wigs and hair additions: Ancient cultures that used wigs (Assyrians, Phoenicians, Greeks and

Ancient Egyptians – used as a shield from sun (shaved head), all same style. Japanese – Geisha, elaborate styles using ornamentation, men’s wigs (Perukes/ periwigs). King Louis XIII of France – Roman style.

Ramillies – smooth through top, curly around sides, plaited in neck. 17th century – extraordinarily elaborate, covering the back, shoulders, flowing down chest, shoulder length or longer, ‘post‑restoration’, full bottomed wig, powdered, distinctive white/off-white colour. 18th century – men’s wigs became smaller, more formal, adopted as part of official costumes, the bob wig (curled tied wig/campaign), women’s wigs (coiffure, built around large frames, elaborate designs). Barristers – favour the late 18th century style. Judges’ wigs – everyday use, court dress (short version), ceremonial occasion judges/QCs wear full-bottomed wigs. The use of wigs and hair additions in modern society: Daily or occasional basis. Film, theatre, television – to create an image, disguise. Temporary change of image – used for lengthening, thickening, adding curls, colour, fun occasions (costume parties). Individuals experiencing hair loss – male patterned baldness, cancer, alopecia areata.

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Outcome 2: Be able to develop a mood board (continued) Orthodox Jewish law (Halakha) – requires married women to cover hair for reasons of modesty (sheitels). Employment opportunities for wig making and hair additions specialists: Specialist subject, wig makers (measure, fit and sell wigs), wig knotters (only knot hair onto a gauze to be further developed), repairing wigs, wig making for judges/ barristers, factory wig maker, working on machines (mass production), working in the theatre, film, television and music industry, hair stylist (to maintain wig). Factors that influence services: Previous chemical services, percentage of grey, client requirements, tools and equipment, presence of added hair, maintenance of style suitability. Hair condition – dry, greasy, normal, virgin, chemically treated, elasticity (strength of hair), porosity (damage to cuticle layer, the ability to absorb moisture). Hair cut/style – uniform layer, one length, short graduation, long graduation. Temperature – body heat, salon temperature, added heat. Texture – fine, medium, coarse. Length – short, medium, long. Density – fine, medium, thick.

Test results – good, bad, caution, positive, negative. Hair and scalp contra-indications: Can prevent/alter service, product, technique. Type of conditions – skin disorders (disease, infestation, infection, defect, bacteria, virus, fungi, parasites). Skin sensitivities – reaction. Allergies – latex, nut, plasters, perfume, oil. History of allergic reaction – positive reaction to skin test, colour service. Incompatible products – metallic salts, previous chemical treatments. Medication – prescription medication. Medical condition – high blood pressure, pregnancy, radiotherapy, cancer. Hair condition – chemical, heat damage, environmental. Hair disorder – contagious/ non‑contagious. Skin disorder – contagious/ non‑contagious, cross‑infection (stylist to client, client to stylist). Contagious:

Skin tone – fair, medium, olive, dark.

Bacterial – impetigo (blisters, weep, yellow crust), folliculitis (yellow pustules), sycosis (yellow, spot, follicle), furunculosis (pusfilled spot), sebaceous cyst (lump on top or under skin).

Face shape – oval, round, square, oblong, heart, pear.

Viral – warts (raised, rough skin, brown), herpes (blisters).

Head size – large, medium, small.

Fungal – tinea capitis/ringworm (patches, pink/grey, scaly, broken hair).

Growth patterns – cowlick, widow’s peak, nape whorl, double crown, male pattern baldness.

Existing curl – tight, soft, wave.

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Lifestyle – job, family, financial, time.

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Outcome 2: Be able to develop a mood board (continued) Animal parasites – pediculosis capitis (head lice, parasite, 6 legs, suck blood), scabies (parasites, mites). Non-contagious: Psoriasis – over production of skin cells, dry, silvery, scales. Cicatrical alopecia – scarring. Alopecia totalis – complete hair loss. Male pattern baldness – hair recedes at hairline or loss crown. Traction alopecia – excessive pulling, brushing, curling and straightening. Alopecia areata – stress, bald patches Seborrhea (excessive oil). Dandruff – itchy, white, skin cells. Dry scalp – white, powdery. Eczema/dermatitis – allergic reaction to detergent, red, irritation, swollen, weeping. Acne – raised bumps and spots. Defects of the hair: Fragilitas crinium – split, dry ends. Monilethrix – beaded hair. Trichorrhexis nodosa – rough, swollen, broken shaft. Sebaceous cyst – sebum filled lump. Damaged cuticle – dull hair.

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Notes

Use this area for notes and diagrams

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