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Luxury, Lies and Marketing
10.1057/9781137264695 - Luxury, Lies and Marketing, Marie-Claude Sicard
Copyright material from www.palgraveconnect.com - licensed to npg - PalgraveConnect - 2017-01-27
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10.1057/9781137264695 - Luxury, Lies and Marketing, Marie-Claude Sicard
Shattering the Illusions of the Luxury Brand
By Marie-Claude Sicard Translated by Trevor Cribben Merill
10.1057/9781137264695 - Luxury, Lies and Marketing, Marie-Claude Sicard
Copyright material from www.palgraveconnect.com - licensed to npg - PalgraveConnect - 2017-01-27
Luxury, Lies and Marketing
© Marie-Claude Sicard 2013 All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication may be made without written permission.
Any person who does any unauthorized act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages. The author has asserted her right to be identified as the author of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. First published 2013 by PALGRAVE MACMILLAN Palgrave Macmillan in the UK is an imprint of Macmillan Publishers Limited, registered in England, company number 785998, of Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 6XS. Palgrave Macmillan in the US is a division of St Martin’s Press LLC, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010. Palgrave Macmillan is the global academic imprint of the above companies and has companies and representatives throughout the world. Palgrave® and Macmillan® are registered trademarks in the United States, the United Kingdom, Europe and other countries. ISBN 978–1–137–26468–8 This book is printed on paper suitable for recycling and made from fully managed and sustained forest sources. Logging, pulping and manufacturing processes are expected to conform to the environmental regulations of the country of origin. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Typeset by MPS Limited, Chennai, India.
10.1057/9781137264695 - Luxury, Lies and Marketing, Marie-Claude Sicard
Copyright material from www.palgraveconnect.com - licensed to npg - PalgraveConnect - 2017-01-27
No portion of this publication may be reproduced, copied or transmitted save with written permission or in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, or under the terms of any licence permitting limited copying issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency, Saffron House, 6–10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS.
CONTENTS List of Figures
vii
Introduction
viii
Chapter 2
Chapter 3
Doing Away with Some Received Ideas
1
Are We Sure We Know What We’re Talking About? French Luxury: An Ego as Big as the Ritz A Neglected History On the Art of Denying One’s Mother Going Back Still Further The Origin of European Luxury: Court Society And on the Paternal Side? Luxury’s Quest for Meaning False Ancestors The Limping Devil Luxury is Always a Swerve The Three “Swerves” of Luxury
1 3 4 7 9 12 15 20 22 23 25 27
International Luxury: The Clash of Cultures
36
Two Visions of Luxury The Pyramid The Galaxy Two Models, Two Societies The Classical and the Baroque A Work in Progress When the Erosion of the Industrial Model Reaches Luxury Brands Invisible Luxury New Brands on the Horizon?
36 37 42 46 48 51
How Luxury Brands Work
64
Being (or Not) a Luxury Brand Defining Luxury: Insufficient Criteria One Luxury, or Three Luxuries? A Brand is an Impression The Fingerprint Method ■ The Physical or Body Pole ■ The Temporal Pole ■ The Spatial Pole
64 65 72 77 79 81 89 94
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Chapter 1
54 57 58
v 10.1057/9781137264695 - Luxury, Lies and Marketing, Marie-Claude Sicard
■
The Norms Pole The Positions Pole ■ The Projects Pole ■ The Relations Pole What Does the Future Hold? The Slider Console Ralph Lauren: A Luxury Brand? The Summary of Summaries The Brand Value Ladder Going Up and Down Marketing and Luxury: The Big Misunderstanding A Paradoxical Form of Marketing? Down with Luxury Marketing? ■
Conclusion
100 109 114 124 135 144 147 150 152 156 158 162 166
169
Notes
182
Index
188
10.1057/9781137264695 - Luxury, Lies and Marketing, Marie-Claude Sicard
Copyright material from www.palgraveconnect.com - licensed to npg - PalgraveConnect - 2017-01-27
Contents
vi
