©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1232

A

Aachen 578-80 Aalsmeer 941 Aberdeen 287-9 accommodation 1208-10, see also individual locations Acropolis 614-15, 16 activities 22, 1210-11, see also individual activities Aegean Islands 673-8 Aegina 643-4 Aeolian Islands 878-9 Agia Roumeli 663 Agios Nikitas 683 Agios Nikolaos 664-5 Agrigento 882-4 Aiguille du Midi 395 Aínsa 1086 air travel 19, 1219 Aix-en-Provence 426-8 Ajaccio 450-3, 451 Albarracín 1086 Albert Dock 257 Alcalá de Henares 1049 Alexandroupolis 641 Algarve, the 996-1001, 997 Algeciras 1129 Alghero 888-9 Alhambra 1121, 7 Alicante 1101-3, 1102 Alkmaar 941 Alloway 267 Alonnisos 680 Alpirsbach 553 Alsace 367-74 Amalfi Coast 868-9 Amboise 381-3 Amrum 598 Amsterdam 929-41, 930, 932-3, 11 accommodation 935-6 activities 929-41 drink 937 entertainment 937-9 food 936-41

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shopping 939-40 sights 929-41 tourist information 940 tours 935 travel to/from 940 travel within 940-1 Anavatos 675 Andalucía 1112-31 Anderlecht 125 Andorra 34, 40-9, 41 accommodation 40, 48 activities 45, 48 climate 40 exchange rates 44 food 40, 48, 49 highlights 41 internet resources 48, 49 itineraries 45 planning 40-1 travel seasons 40 travel to/from 49 travel within 49 visas 49 Andorra la Vella 41-4, 42 Angel of the North 252 Anne Frank Huis 967 Annecy 397-9, 398 Antiparos 650, 649 Antwerp 130-7, 132-2 Appenzellerland 1189-90 Appian Way 792-3 Aragón 1083-5 Aran Islands 740-1 Aranjuez 1049 Arbois 404 Arc de Triomphe 327-8 archaeological sites & ruins 20, 22, see also Unesco World Heritage sites Acrocorinth 631-2 Acropolis 614-15, 16 Ancient Agora 615 Ancient Corinth 631-2 Brú na Bóinne 716 Colosseum 774, 775 Conimbriga 1008 Delphi 637 Epidavros 633 Glastonbury Abbey 215 Hadrian’s Wall 251-2 Ireland 762 Ireon 675 Knossos 659 Malia 659-60 Medina Azahara 1119 Museu d’Història de Tarragona 1081 Mycenae 633 Mystras 634 Olympia 636-7 Parco Archeologico della Neapolis 881 Parthenon 614 Phaestos 659

Rievaulx Abbey 247-8 Roman Agora 615 Roman Forum 775-6 Stonehenge 208 Temple of Olympian Zeus & Panathenaic Stadium 615 Terme di Caracalla 792 Valley of the Temples 882 Villa Adriana 804 Argostoli 684 Arinsal 47-8 Arkadia 634 art 23 art museums & galleries, see also museums Albertina 58 Caixa Forum 1032 Castell de Púbol 1080 Centre Pompidou 328 Centre Pompidou-Metz 373 Collezione Peggy Guggenheim 822 Dublin City Gallery – The Hugh Lane 707 Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) 843 Galleria dell’Accademia (Venice) 822 Galleria Doria Pamphilj 787 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica 787 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna 789 Galleria Regionale della Siciliana 875 Groeningemuseum 143 Hergé Museum 121 Irish Museum of Modern Art 707 Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten (KMSKA) 134 Kröller-Müller Museum 958 Kunsthaus 1182 Kunsthistorisches Museum 58 Mudam 914 Musée de l’Œuvre Notre Dame 369 Musée de Montmartre 328 Musée d’Orsay 321 Musée du Cinquantenaire 121 Musée du Louvre 327 Musée Matisse 436 Musée Picasso 329 Musée Rodin 321 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts 115 Museo de Arte Abstracto Español 1063 Museo del Prado 1027-8 Museo e Galleria Borghese 788 Museo Guggenheim 1090 Museo Picasso Málaga 1125 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza 1032 Museu Picasso 1068 Museum Boijmans van Beuningen 951 Museum het Rembrandthuis 934 Museumsquartier 58-9 National Gallery (Dublin) 707 National Gallery (London) 166 National Portrait Gallery 166

B

Bach, Johann Sebastian 503, 508 Bacharach 564 Bad Ischl 89-91 Baden-Baden 551-3

Baden-Württemberg 543-51 Badron Gorge 634 Balearic Islands 1104-12 Ballycastle 754 Bamberg 533-4 Banksy 213 Barcelona 1065-78, 1066-7, 1070-1 accommodation 1072-4 activities 1065-72 drink 1075-6 entertainment 1076-7 food 1074-5 internet resources 1069 shopping 1077-9 sights 1065-72 tourist information 1078 tours 1072 travel to/from 1078 travel within 1078 Bari 871-2 Basel 1186-9, 1188 Basque country 1086-91 Bastia 448-9 Bastogne 151-2 Bath 208-12, 210, 14 Battle of the Somme 355 Bavaria 520-41 Bavarian Alps 541-3 Bayeux 357-8 beaches 21 France 439-41 gay & lesbian 1213 Greece 646, 651, 653, 682 Italy 823, 884, 887 Portugal 987, 993, 996, 1016 Spain 1080-1, 1086, 1098, 1105, 1110-1, 1124 Beaune 386-7 beer 20, see also breweries & beer halls, drinks Belgium 150, 152-3, 13 France 352 Germany 526 Belfast 746-54, 748-9 Belgium 34, 113-59, 116-17 accommodation 113, 156 activities 152-3, 156 arts 154-5 climate 113 drink 114, 155 embassies & consulates 157 exchange rates 114 food 113, 114, 155, 157 highlights 116 history 152-4 itineraries 114 language 114 planning 113-14 travel seasons 113 travel to/from 114, 157-9 travel within 159 visas 157

Bellinzona 1192 Ben Nevis 291 Berchtesgadener 541-2 Berlin 473-94, 476, 478-9, 482-3, 486 accommodation 485-9 drink 490-1 entertainment 491-2 food 489-90 history 473-6 internet resources 477 itineraries 473 shopping 492-3 sights 477-84 tourist information 493 tours 484-5 travel to/from 493 travel within 493-4 Berlin Wall 481, 6 Berlusconi, Silvio 890-1 Bern 1167-71, 1168 Bernese Oberland 1171-9 Bernkastel-Kues 562 Besançon 403-4 Biarritz 414-16 bicycle travel, see cycling Bilbao 1089-91 Birmingham 231-2, 233 Black Forest 552-8, 552 Blarney 725-6 Blois 375-6 Blue Grotto (Capri) 865-6 boat travel 766, 1210, 1220, see also ferries France 410, 419, 451-2 Germany 563-4, 587 Bologna 832-5, 833 Bonaparte, Napoleon 130, 450, 455 Bonifacio 453-4 Bonn 575-6 Bordeaux 411, 411-14, 412 Bosa 888 Bosch, Hieronymous 963 Bouillon 153 Bowness 260-1 Braga 1016-17 Brandenburg 494-6 Brandt, Willy 599 Brecon 264-5 Bregenz 102-3 Bregenzerwald 103 Bremen 583-6, 584 Breugel family 155 breweries & beer halls 529, see also beer Deca Brewery 150 De Dolle 150 Guinness Storehouse 706-7 Heineken Experience 934 Hofbräuhaus 529 Musée Bruxellois de la Gueuze 125

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Palais Liechtenstein (Vienna) 59 Paul Klee Centre 1167 Rijksmuseum 931 Sammlung Rosengart 1172-3 Schloss Belvedere 59 Stedelijk Museum 931 Tate Britain 167 Tate Modern 172 Teatro-Museu Dalí 1080 Uffizzi Gallery 839 Van Gogh Museum 931 Vatican Museums 783 Victoria & Albert Museum 172 Assisi 856-7 Assos 684-5 Asturias 1092 Athens 613-27, 616-17, 620 accommodation 619-22 drink 624 entertainment 624-5 safety 626 shopping 625-8 sights 614-19 tourist information 626 travel to/from 626-7 travel within 627 ATMs 1214-15 Attersee 92 Augsburg 539-40 Austen, Jane 207, 209 Austria 34, 50-112, 52-3 accommodation 50, 106-7 activities 107 architecture 105 arts 105 climate 50 coffee houses 68, 86 drink 51, 105-6 embassies & consulates 108 exchange rates 51 food 50, 51, 105-6, 108 highlights 52 history 104-5 internet resources 51 itineraries 51 language 51, 108 planning 50-1 tourist information 109 travel seasons 50 travel to/from 51, 109-10 travel within 110-12 visas 109 Avebury 209 Avignon 428-32, 430-1 Ávila 1049-50

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INDE X B - C

Brighton 202-5, 204 Brighton Festival 203 Brindisi 872 Bristol 212-14 Britain 35, 160-312, 162-3 accommodation 160, 302 activities 304-8 arts 298-9 climate 160, 259 drink 161, 302 embassies & consulates 305-6 exchange rates 161 food 160, 161, 302 heritage organisations 306 highlights 162-3 history 294-8 internet resources 161, 308 itineraries 161 language 161, 266, 306 planning 160-1 safe travel 212, 259, 307 tourist information 303, 308 travel seasons 160 travel to/from 161, 308-9 travel within 309-12 visas 308 British Museum 176, 177 Brittany 359 Broadway 227 Brontë, Emily 240 Brú na Bóinne 716 Bruges 143-8, 144 Bruna, Dick 957 Brussels 115-30, 118-19, 122-3 accommodation 125-6 drink 127-8 entertainment 128-9 food 126-7 sights 115-25 tourist information 129 tours 125 travel to/from 129 travel within 129-30 Buçaco Forest 1008-9 Buchenwald 511-12 Buckingham Palace 167 budget 18 bullfighting 417, 1079 Burano 823 Burgos 1059-60 Burgundy 382, 383-94 Burns, Robert 267 Burren 735-6 bus travel 18, 276, 1220-1 business hours 1211

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C

Cáceres 1133-4 Cádiz 1129-30 Cagliari 884-7, 885 Cahors 407-8 Cala Gonone 887-8 Calais 352-3 Calatrava, Santiago 1097 Calvi 449-50 Calvin, John 1151 Cambridge 234-7, 236 campervan travel 1221 Camus, Albert 456 Canal St-Martin 329, 341 Canazei 837 Cancale 365 Canillo 45 Cannes 439-42, 440 Cannes Film Festival 25 canoeing 156, 1165, 1173 Cantabria 1092-3 Canterbury 200-1 Canterbury Tales, The 200 Cape Keri 686 Capri 865-7 car travel 19, 1221-3, see also scenic journeys Caravaggio, Merisi da 892 Carcassonne 416-17 Cardiff 261-3, 262 Carnac 361 Carpentras 432 Carrantuohil 730 Carrick-a-Rede 754 Cascais 996 Castelo de Vide 1005 Castilla y León 1049-60 Castilla-la-Mancha 1060-4 castles, fortresses & palaces 20, 2512, see also châteaux, mansions & villas, Unesco World Heritage sites Alcazaba (Almeria) 1124 Alcázar (Segovia) 1053 Alcázar (Seville) 1113 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos 1119 Alhambra 1121, 7 Aljafería 1083 Beaufort 920 Blenheim Palace 227 Bock Casemates 912 Buckingham Palace 167 Burg Hasegg 96 Castelgrande 1192 Castello di Montebello 1192 Castelo de São Jorge 978 Castle Howard 246-7 Château (Luxembourg) 919 Château de Bourscheid 920 Château de Chillon 1163 Château de Versailles 350 Château Royal d’Amboise 381 Chenonceau 379

Conwy Castle 265 Dublin Castle 707 Durham Castle 250 Edinburgh Castle 269-70 Esch-sur-Sûre 920 Festung Hohensalzburg 80-1 Hampton Court Palace 178 Hofburg 55, 93 Hohenschwangau 540 Kensington Palace 173 Langeais 379 Larochette 920 Leeds Castle 202 Malahide Castle 716 Namur 153 Neuschwanstein 540 Palace of Holyroodhouse 272 Palácio Nacional de Sintra 994 Palacio Real 1032 Palais Grand-Ducal 912 Palazzo Pitti 842 Palazzo Reale 875 Piazzetta di San Marco 822 Rheinfall 1190 San Lorenzo de El Escorial 1049 Schloss Belvedere 59 Schloss Cecilienhof 495 Schloss Heidelberg 547-9 Schloss Hellbrunn 88 Schloss Mirabell 81 Schloss Sanssouci 495 Schloss Schönbrunn 58 Schloss Vaduz 904 Stirling Castle 283-4 Tower of London 170 Villa d’Este 804-5 Wartburg 508 Windsor Castle 199 catacombs, see cemeteries & tombs Catalonia 1065-83 cathedrals, see churches, cathedrals & mosques Causeway Coast 754-5, 10 caves 91, 152, 407 cell phones 1216 Celle 581-3 cemeteries & tombs, see also Unesco World Heritage sites Camposanto cemetery 848 Catacombe dei Cappuccini 876 Catacombs of San Callisto 793 Catacombs of San Sebastiano 794 Cimetière de Montmartre 328 Cimetière du Montparnasse 322 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 329 Dante’s tomb 835 Deutscher Soldatenfriedhof 149 Les Catacombes (Paris) 322 Necropolis 805 Tyne Cot 149 US Military Cemetery 915 Zentralfriedhof 63

Cathédrale St-André 411 Cattedrale di Monreale 878 Cattedrale di Palermo 875 Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin) 707 Duoma (Siena) 850 Duomo (Florence) 838-9 Duomo (Milan) 812 Duomo (Naples) 859 Durham Cathedral 249-50 Exeter Cathedral 216 Frauenkirche 497 Fraumünster 1179 Glasgow Cathedral 277 Grossmünster 1179 Hofkirche 93 Kölner Dom 572 La Sagrada Família 1069, 8 Mezquita 1118 Nieuwe Kerk 929 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal 131 Oude Kerk 929 Salisbury Cathedral 207 Sistine Chapel 783 St Canice’s Cathedral 719 St Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin) 707 St Paul’s Cathedral 170 St Peter’s Basilica 782 Stephansdom 54 Westminster Abbey 166 Westminster Cathedral 166 Wieskirche 541 Winchester Cathedral 205 Cinquantenaire 121 Cinque Terre 808-9 Clervaux 920 Clifden 742 Cliffs of Moher 736 climate 18, see also individual countries climate change & travel 1220 coasteering 304 Cochem 561 Coimbra 1007-8 Cologne 571-5, 572 Colosseum 774, 775 comic strips 121 Conimbriga 1008 Connemara 741-2 Constance 558-9 convents & monasteries, see also churches & cathedrals Convento de las Descalzas Reales 1033 Kloster Alpirsbach 553 Monestir de Montserrat 1078-9 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 979 Nea Moni 675 San Juan de los Reyes 1060 Stift Melk 73 Conwy 265 Corbusier, Le 1198

Córdoba 1118-20, 1118 Corfu 681-2, 681 Corinth 631-2 Cork 720-7, 722-3 Cornwall 219-22 Corsica 448-54 Cortina d’Ampezzo 837 Costa Blanca 1103 Costa Brava 1080-1 Costa da Caparica 987 Costa de Almería 1124-5 Côte d’Azur 433-48 Côte d’Opale 354 Côte d’Or 382 Cotswolds 226-7, 228 County Wicklow 716-17 Covent Garden 166 credit cards 1215 Crete 657-65, 658-9 Cromeleque dos Almendres 1004 Cuenca 1063-5 Cueva de Altamira 1092-3 currency 19 customs regulations 1211 Cyclades 645-57 cycling 1210, 1219-20, see also scenic journeys Andorra 49 Austria 73, 79, 99 Belgium 156, 159 Britain 304-5 France 376, 399, 410 Germany 562 Italy 843, 895 Netherlands 971 Paris 329-43 Portugal 978, 994, 996, 1015, 1017, 1020 within Western Europe 19

D

Dachau 531 Dalí, Salvador 1080, 1139 Damme 148 dangers, see safety Dante Alighieri 835 Danube Valley 72-6 D-Day beaches 358-9 de Beauvoir, Simone 456 Debussy, Claude 457 Delémont 1165 Delft 948-51, 950 Delos 648 Delphi 637 Delta Project (Netherlands) 959 Den Bosch 962-3 Den Haag 945-8, 946 Derry 755-7 Dessau-Rosslau 512-14 Deventer 961 Diana, Princess of Wales 173

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CERN (European Organisation for Nuclear Research) 1156, 1197 Cervantes, Miguel de 1060, 1138 Cerveteri 805-6 Cézanne, Paul 426 Chagall, Marc 436 Chambord 377 Chamonix 394-7, 15 Champagne 364-7, 10 Chartres 350-1 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 433 châteaux, mansions & villas, see also castles, fortresses & palaces, Unesco World Heritage sites Azay-le-Rideau 379 Chambord 376-8 Château de Jehay 153 Château de Lavaux-Sainte-Anne 153 Château de Modave 153 Chaumont-sur-Loire 377 Cheverny 377 Harewood House 239 Loire Valley 375 Powerscourt Estate 716-17 Quinta da Regaleira 994 Villa Trapp 85 Villandry 379 Checkpoint Charlie 481 Chester 255-6 children, travel with 1211, see also individual countries Chinchón 1049 Chios 675-6 Chipping Campden 226 chocolate 156, 573, 845, 1191 churches, cathedrals & mosques, see also convents & monasteries, Unesco World Heritage sites Aaachener Dom 579 Augustiner Chorherrenstift 75 Basílica de San Francisco El Grande 1033 Basilica di San Marco 819, 822 Campo dei Miracoli 848 Cappella Palatina 875 Catedral (Barcelona) 1065 Catedral (Burgos) 1059 Catedral (León) 1056 Catedral (Tarragona) 1082 Catedral de Santiago de Compostel 1094 Catedral de Toledo 1060 Cathedral (Seville) 1112-13 Cathedral (Palma de Mallorca) 1105 Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Lausanne) 1160 Cathédrale de Notre Dame de Paris 323 Cathédrale Notre Dame (Luxembourg) 912 Cathédrale Notre Dame (Tournai) 150 Cathédrale Notre Dame de Chartres 350

1236

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Dickens, Charles 171 Diekirch 921 Dijon 383-6, 384 Dimitsana 634 Dingle Peninsula 733-4 discount cards 107, 604, 970, 1020, 1211-12 Disneyland Paris 349 distilleries 707, 755 diving 49, 453, 895 Dodecanese 665-73 Dolomites 836-7 dolphin-watching 1132 Don Quijote 1060, 1138 Donauquelle 555 Donegal 744-6 Dordogne 405-8 Douro River 1015 Dover 201-2 Dracula 248 Dresden 496-502, 498 drinks 20, 21, see also individual locations absinthe 1163 apple-wine 570 beer 150, 153-2, 352 cider 355 Kitron 652 ouzo 690 Pernod 1163 port wine 1014 drugs 1197, 1216 Dublin 703-15, 704-5, 708-9, 14 accommodation 710-11 drink 712-69 entertainment 713-69 food 711-69 internet resources 707 itineraries 703 sights 703-7 tours 707-9 travel to/from 714-15 travel within 715 Dun Laoghaire 715-16 Dunkirk 353-4 Duomo (Florence) 838-9 Duomo (Milan) 812 Durham 249-50 Dürnstein 73 Düsseldorf 576-8, 577

E

Echternacht 919-21 Eden Project 219 Edinburgh 269-76, 270-1, 13 accommodation 273-4 drink 274-5

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entertainment 275-6 food 274 internet resources 274 sights 269-73 tourist information 276 tours 273 travel to/from 276 Edinburgh Castle 269-70 Eiffel Tower 315-20, 4 Einstein, Albert 1167, 1169, 1197 Eisenach 508 Eisriesenwelt 88 El Greco 1139 electricity 1212 Ely 237 embassies & consulates 1212, see also individual countries emergency numbers 1209 Encamp 45 Enniskillen 757-8 Épernay 366-7 Epidavros 633 Erfurt 507-8 Escher, MC 968 Estremoz 1004-5 Ettelbrück 921 euro 1215 Évora 1001-3, 1002 Exeter 216-17 exchange rates, see individual countries Extremadura 1132-6

F

fado 991 Faro 998 Ferrara 831-2 ferries 19, 1218 Britain 309 France 466 Greece 684, 685, 696-7, 698, 697 Ireland 766, 767 Italy 899 Netherlands 972 Spain 1146 festivals & events 24-7, see also film festivals, music festivals Bienal de Flamenco 1113 Brighton Festival 203 Carnaval (Maastricht) 24 Carnevale (Venice) 24, 823 Comic-Strip Festival 121 Donegal Beer Festival 745 Easter (Greece) 25 Edinburgh Festival Fringe 275 Edinburgh International Festival 26, 275 Edinburgh Military Tattoo 275 Encierro (Running of the Bulls) 26, 1091 Estate Romana 794 Fashion Week (Prêt-à-Porter) 331

Fasnacht 1187 Féile an Phobail 750 Festa di San Gennaro 859 Festas de Lisboa 982-3 Festes de la Mercè 1072 Festival at Queen’s 750 Fêtes de Genève 1156-7 Formula One Grand Prix 445 Gay Pride (Brighton) 202-3 Grande Parade de Paris 331 Hellenic Festival 619 Hogmanay 24 Il Palio 26 Karneval/Fasching (Germany) 24 Kilkenny Arts Festival 719 Kilkenny Celtic Festival 719 Koninginnedag 25 Las Fallas de San José 1100 Montreux Jazz Festival 1163 Natale di Roma 794 Notting Hill Carnival 26, 182 Oktoberfest 27, 526, 9 Opernball 63 Palio (Siena) 851 Pride (London) 182 Puccini Festival 852 Running of the Bulls 26, 1091 Salzburg Festival 84 Sanfermines 26, 1091 Sechseläuten 1183 Semana Santa (Seville) 24, 1113 Settimana Santa (Italy) 25 St Patrick’s Day 24 Street Parade (Zürich) 1183 Suma Flamenca 1037 University Boat Race 179 Venice Biennale 823 Wiener Festwochen 63 film festivals Belfast Film Festival 750 Cannes Film Festival 25 Festival Internazionale del Film di Roma 795 International Film Festival Berlin 485 Venice International Film Festival 26-7, 823 Viennale 63 film locations Austria 80, 81, 84 88, 92 Britain 222, 241 Switzerland 1138 filmmakers 891-2, 1138 Fira 654 Fischer von Erlach, Johann 105 Fiskardo 684 flamenco 1139 Flanders 130-50 Flims-Laax 1193-4 Florence 838-47, 840-1 accommodation 843-4 drink 846

G

Galicia 1092-6 Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) 843 Galleria dell’Accademia (Venice) 822 Galway 736-40, 738-9 gardens, see parks & gardens

Garmisch-Partenkirchen 542-3 Gaudi, Antoni 1069 gay & lesbian travellers 624-5, 1212-13 Austria 108 Belgium 129, 136 Britain 179, 203, 253, 282, 306 France 462 Germany 492, 530, 605 Greece 677, 692 Ireland 764 Italy 896 Netherlands 938 Spain 1045, 1143 Switzerland 1202 Gefyra 634-5 Gehry, Frank 1089, 1090 Geneva 1151-60, 1154-5 accommodation 1157-8 activities 1151-6 drinking 1158-9 entertainment 1158-9 food 1158 internet resources 1158 itineraries 1156 sights 1151-6 tourist information 1159 travel to/from 1159-60 travel within 1160 Genoa 806-8 Germany 35, 471-610, 474-5 accommodation 471, 604 arts 600-2 climate 471 drink 472, 603 embassies & consulates 604-5 exchange rates 472 food 471, 472, 603-4 highlights 474-5 history 598-600 internet resources 472 itineraries 472 language 472 planning 471-2 safety 606 travel seasons 471 travel to/from 472, 606-7 travel within 607-10 travellers with disabilities 606 Ghent 137-42, 138 Giant’s Causeway 754, 10 Gibraltar 1131-2 Gimmelwald 1178 Girona 1079-80 glaciers 395, 1177 Glasgow 276-83, 278-9 Glastonbury 215-16 Glen Coe 290 Glendalough 717 Glens of Antrim 754 Gmunden 93

Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von 509, 513, 600, 879 golf 45, 286 Gornergrat 1165 Goslar 513 Gouda 949 Goya, Francisco 1139 Granada 1120-4, 1122-3 Grand Canal (Venice) 819 Grandvalira 45 Grasmere 260 Grass, Günter 601 Grasse 442 Graubünden’ 1193-6 Graz 76-9, 76 Greece 35, 611-99, 613 accommodation 611, 691-4 arts 619, 688-9 beaches 646, 651, 653, 682 children, travel with 692 climate 611 drink 612, 690-1 embassies & consulates 692 exchange rates 612 ferries 684, 685, 696-7, 698, 697 food 611, 612, 690-1 highlights 613 history 614, 686-8 internet resources 612 island-hopping 698 itineraries 612, 614 language 612, 693 planning 611-12 safety 693 sights 614-28 tourist information 694 tours 619 travel seasons 611 travel to/from 612, 694-6 travel within 696-9 travellers with disabilities 694 visas 694 Greenwich 177-8 Grenoble 399-403, 400 Grimaldi family 447 Grindelwald 1177 Groningen 960-2 Gropius, Walter 602 Grossglockner 101 Grossglockner Road 101 Grotte de Massabielle 415 Gruyères 1164-5 Gryon 1159 Guinness Storehouse 706-7 Gythio 635

H

Haarlem 942-3 Hadrian’s Wall 251-2 Halkidiki 641 Hall 96

1237

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entertainment 846-7 food 844-6 history 838 internet resources 843 sights 838-43 tourist information 839, 847 tours 843 travel to/from 847 travel within 847 Föhr 598 food 21, 22, see also individiual locations chocolate 156, 573, 845, 1191 Dijon mustard 385 foie gras 405 fondue 1193 truffles 406 football 814 Formula One Grand Prix 445 Fort William 291-2 fortresses, see castles, fortresses & palaces Fourvière 390 France 35, 313-470, 316-17 accommodation 313, 460-1 activities 461 arts 456-8 climate 313 drink 314, 458 embassies & consulates 461-2 exchange rates 314 food 313, 314, 459-60 highlights 316 history 315, 455-6 internet resources 314 itineraries 314 language 314, 462 planning 313-14 travel seasons 313 travel to/from 314, 463 travel within 465-9 visas 463 Franco, General Francisco 1137 Frankfurt-am-Main 565-71, 566-7 Freiburg im Breisgau 555-8, 556 Freitag 1183 French Alps 394-405 French Riviera 433-48 Freud, Sigmund 63 Freudenstadt 553 Friesland 960-2 Frikes 683 Furtwangen 554 Füssen 540-1

1238

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Hallstatt 91-2 Hamburg 586-94, 588-9 Hamelin 583 Hania 661-3, 662 Hanover 580-1 Harz Mountains 513 Haworth 240 Haydn, Josef 105 health 1213 Heidelberg 547-51, 548 Heiligenblut 101 Heineken Experience 934 Helmsley 247 Hemingway, Ernest 1091 Hesse 564-71 Hexenloch 555 Heysel 125 hiking 1210-11 Andorra 45, 49 Austria 95-6, 99 Belgium 156 Britain 291, 305 France 444 Germany 542, 553, 563-4 Greece 634, 643, 663 Ireland 717, 730 Italy 836-7, 895 Liechtenstein 906 Luxembourg 919-21, 921 Portugal 1017, 1020 Spain 1086, 1093, 1107, 1142 Switzerland 1159, 1165-6, 1178-9, 1191, 1201 historic buildings & sites 20 O2 178 Arc de Triomphe 327-8 Basilique du Sacré Cœur 328 Brandenburg Gate 477 Carnac 361 Casas Colgadas 1063 Eiffel Tower 315-20, 4 Houses of Parliament (London) 166-7 La Pedrera 1069 Leaning Tower of Pisa 848 London Eye 171 Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet 357 Museum Plantin-Moretus 131 Old Sarum 207 Palais des Nations 1151 Palais Garnier 328 Palazzo Farnese 786 Pantheon 783-6 Ponte Vecchio 839 Reichstag 477 Royal Pavilion (Brighton) 202

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Scottish Parliament Building 272, 273 Shakespeare’s Globe 171 Spanish Steps 787 Torre de Belém 979 Tower Bridge 170 Vézère Valley caves 407 hitching 1223 Hitler, Adolf 541, 598-9 Hofbräuhaus 529 Hogmanay 24 Homer 688 Honecker, Erich 599 Honegger, Arthur 1198 horse riding 1017, 1131 Horton-in-Ribblesdale 241 Hove 202-5 Hugo, Victor 456 Hundertwasser, Friedensreich 59, 78 Hydra 644

I

Ibiza 1108-10, 1112, 1110-11 Igoumenitsa 643 Îles de Lérins 439 Innsbruck 93-8, 94 insurance 1213, 1222 Interlaken 1175-6 internet access 1213-14 internet resources 19 Inverness 289-90 Ioannina 642 Ionian Islands 680-6 Ios 652-4, 653 Iraklio 657-9, 660 Ireland 35, 700-70, 702 accommodation 700, 762 activities 763 arts 761-2 climate 700 drink 701, 762 embassies & consulates 763-4 exchange rates 701 food 700, 701, 762, 764 highlights 702 history 758-61 itineraries 701 language 701, 764 planning 700-1 tourist information 765 travel seasons 700 travel to/from 701, 765-6 travel within 766-8 travellers with disabilities 765 visas 701, 765 Ireon 675 Isle of Arran 267-8 Isle of Mull 285-6 Isle of Skye 292-3 Italy 35, 771-902, 773 accommodation 771, 894-8 activities 895

arts 891-3 climate 771, 837 dangers & annoyances 893 drink 772, 893-4 embassies & consulates 896 exchange rates 772 food 771, 772, 893-4 highlights 773 history 889-91 internet resources 772, 898 itineraries 772 planning 771-2 safe travel 897 tourist information 897-8 travellers with disabilities 898 travel seasons 771 travel to/from 772, 898-900 travel within 900-2 visas 898 Ithaki 683 itineraries 28-33 Ixelles 120-1

J

Joan of Arc 455 John O’Groats 293 Joyce, James 715 Jungfrau region 1177-86 Jungfraujoch 1179 Jura, the 394-405, 1165

K

Karpathos 669-70 Katzenthal 372 kayaking 152, 156 Kazantzakis, Nikos 689 Kefallonia 683-5 Kensington Palace 173 Keukenhof Gardens 943 Kew Gardens 178 Kilkenny 718-20 Killarney 727-31, 728 Kioni 683 kite boarding 305 kitesurfing 305, 1130, 1142 Kitron 652 Kitzbühel 99-100 Klagenfurt 79-88 Klee, Paul 1167, 1198 Klimt, Gustav 105 Knights of St John 671 Knossos 659 Koblenz 561 Kolmenhof 555 Koolhaas, Rem 968 Kos 671-2 Krems an der Donau 72-3 Krippenstein 91

L

itineraries 979 shopping 992 sights 978-82 tourist information 993 tours 982 travel to/from 993-4 travel within 994 Liszt, Franz 509 Liverpool 256-9 Locarno 1190-1 Loch Lomond 283 Loch Ness 290 Loire Valley 375-83 London 164-99, 165, 168-9, 174-5, 180-1, 184, 186, 188, 5 accommodation 182-7 drink 192 entertainment 193-5 food 187-91 history 164-93 internet resources 167, 187 itineraries 164 shopping 195-7 sights 165-99 tourist information 197 tours 178-9 travel to/from 197 travel within 197-9 London Eye 171 Lorca, Federico García 1138 Lorraine 367-74 Lot 405-8 Louis XIV 350, 455 Lough Erne 757-8 Lourdes 415 Lousios Gorge 634 Loutro 664 Louvre museum 327 Lower Saxony 580-3 Lübeck 595-7 Lucca 852-4 Lucerne 1172-5, 1172 Lugano 1191-3 Lüneburg 586 Luso 1008-9 Luther, Martin 507, 508 Luxembourg 36, 909-25, 911 accommodation 909, 923 arts 923 climate 909 drink 910, 923 embassies & consulates 923 exchange rates 910 food 909, 910, 923, 923-4 highlights 911 internet resources 910 itineraries 910 language 910 planning 909-10 travel seasons 909 travel to/from 910, 924

travel within 924-5 visas 924 Luxembourg City 912-18, 913, 11 Lyon 387-94, 388

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M

Maastricht 963-6, 964 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 281 Madrid 1027-49, 1030-1, 1034-5, 1038 accommodation 1037-40 activities 1027 courses 1037 drink 1043-4 entertainment 1044 food 1040-3 history 1027 internet resources 1037 shopping 1047-9 sights 1027-36 tourist information 1048 tours 1037 travel to/from 1048 travel within 1049 Magdeburg 512 Magritte, René 115, 155 Mainz 564 Málaga 1125-8, 1126 Malbun 907 Malham 241 Malia 659-60 Mallorca 1105-8 Manchester 252-5 Mani 635-6 Manolates 675 Mantua 816 mansions, see châteaux, mansions & villas Marseille 421-6, 422-3 Marvão 1005 Massif de l’Estérel 444 Matera 869-71 Matisse, Henri 436 Matterhorn 1165-6, 7 Mayrhofen 99 measures 1217 Mecklenberg-Western Pomerania 514-20 media 1214 Meersburg 559 Meissen 502 Melk 73 Melrose 268-9 Mendelssohn, Felix 503 Menorca 1110-12 Mérida 1134-6 Merkel, Angela 600 Messinian Mani 636 Mesta 675 Métabief 404 Meteora 638

INDE X L- M

La Besurta 1086 La Sagrada Família 1069, 8 Lac d’Annecy 397 Lagos 999-1000 Lake Bodensee 102 Lake Constance 558-60 Lake Geneva 1151, 1160-5 Lakonian Mani 636 Land’s End 221-2 language 1227-8, see also individual countries Languedoc-Roussillon 416-20 Lasithi Plateau 664 Lausanne 1160-2, 1161 Lawrence, DH 879 Le Marche 854-8 Leaning Tower of Pisa 848 Lecce 872-4 Leeds 238-9 Lefkada 682-3 legal matters 1214 Lehár, Franz 90 Leiden 943-5, 944 Leipzig 503-7, 504 León 1056-9, 1057 Leonardo da Vinci 381 Leonidio 634 Les Baux de Provence 432 Les Calanques 425 Les Calanques de Piana 452 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil 407 Lesvos 676-8 Leuven 130 Leysin 1159 Liechtenstein 36, 903-8, 904 accommodation 903 climate 903 drink 908 food 903, 908 highlights 904 history 907-8 internet resources 908 planning 903-4 travel seasons 903 travel to/from 908 travel within 908 Liège 150-1 Lienz 100-1 Lille 351-2 Limerick 734-5 Limnionas 686 Lindau 559-60 Linz 74-6 Lisbon 978-94, 980-1, 984-5, 12 accommodation 983-7 drink 989-90 entertainment 990-2 food 987-9 internet resources 989

1240

INDE X M - N

Metz 373-5 Mezquita 1118 Middelburg 959-60 Milan 811-15, 812 accommodation 813 drink 813-14 entertainment 814 food 813-14 shopping 814 sights 811-12 tourist information 814 tours 813 travel to/from 814-15 travel within 815 Miró, Joan 1139 Mithymna 677-8 mobile phones 1216 Monaco 444-8, 446 monasteries, see convents & monasteries Monchique 1000 Mondsee 92 Monemvasia 634-5 Monestir de Montserrat 1078-9 Monet, Claude 357 money 18, 19, 306-8, 1211-12, 1214-16 Monodendri 643 Monsaraz 1003-4 Mont Blanc 394, 395 Mont St-Michel 359 Montmartre 328, 330 Montreux 1162-4 Montreux Jazz Festival 1163 Moselle Valley 560-2, 921-2 mosques, see churches, cathedrals & mosques motorcycle travel 1223 mountain biking, see cycling mountaineering 394, 542 Mourne Mountains 758 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 81, 105 Mt Etna 880-1 Mt Olympus 641-2 Munich 520-31, 522-3 accommodation 526-7 drink 528-9 entertainment 529-30 internet resources 527 itineraries 525 shopping 530 sights 521-5 tourist information 530 tours 526 travel to/from 530-1 travel within 531 Munster 368 Murano 823

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

Murcia 1103-4 Mürren 1178 museums, see also art museums & galleries Acropolis Museum 615 Amsterdam Museum 929 Anne Frank Huis 967 Atomium 125 Autoworld 121 Bach Museum 503 Beatles Story 257 BMW Museum 525 British Library 176 British Museum 176, 177 Churchill Museum & Cabinet War Rooms 167 Design Museum 172 Deutsches Museum 524 Dick Bruna Huis 957 Dokumentation Obersalzberg 541 Dublin Writers Museum 707 Einstein Museum 1167, 1169 Goldenes Dachl & Museum 93 International Red Cross & Red Crescent Museum 1151 International Slavery Museum 257 James Joyce Museum 715-6 Jane Austen Centre 209 Jewish Museum (Berlin) 483-4 Joods Historisch Museum 967 Kilmainham Gaol 706 Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917 148 Mozart’s Geburtshaus 81 Mozart-Wohnhaus 81 Musée du Cinquantenaire 121 Musée National d’Histoire Militaire 921 Musée Olympique 1160 Musei Capitolini 779 Museo Altamira 1093 Museo Archeologico Nazionale 858-9 Museo dei Fori Imperiali 779 Museo dell’Ara Pacis Augustae 787 Museo di Capodimonte 859 Museo di San Marco 843 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia 789 Museo Nazionale Romano 791 Museu d’Història de Barcelona 1065 Museu d’Història de Tarragona 1081 Museu do Fado 978 Museu Nacional de l’Automòbil 45 Museum of London 171 National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 615 National Coal Mining Museum for England 239-40 National Football Museum 253 National Maritime Museum 178 National Museum of Archaeology (Dublin) 703

Natural History Museum (Dublin) 707 Natural History Museum (London) 172 Palazzo Grassi 822 Roman Baths (Bath) 209 Rothe House 719 Science Museum (London) 172 Shakespeare Houses 229 Sigmund Freud Museum 63 Stasi Museum 484 Trinity College 703 Ulster Folk & Transport Museums 747 Ulster Museum 746 Verkehrshaus 1173 music 23, see also individual music types music festivals Bath International Music Festival 210 B-Parade 26 Brussels Jazz Marathon 25 Donauinselfest 63 Fuckparade 485 Glastonbury Festival 25, 215 Guinness Jazz Festival 721 Maggio Musicale Fiorentino 843 Meltdown Festival 179 Montreux Jazz Festival 26 Primo Maggio 794 Ravenna 835 Romaeuropa 794 Torino Milano Festival Internazionale della Musica 814 Urbino Musica Antica 857 Mussolini, Benito 890 Mycenae 633 Mykonos 645-8, 647 Mystras 634

N

Nafplio 632-3 Nancy 372 Nantes 408-10 Naples 858-65, 860-1 accommodation 859-62 drink 863 entertainment 863-5 food 863 sights 858-9 tourist information 864 travel to/from 864-5 travel within 865 Naschmarkt 67 National Gallery (London) 166 national parks & reserves 301, 458, 659, see also parks & gardens, Unesco World Heritage sites Berchtesgaden 542 Brecon Beacons National Park 264-5

planning 926-7 safe travel 971 travel seasons 926 travel to/from 927, 971-2 travel within 972-3 Neuchâtel 1164 Neuschwanstein 540 Newcastle-upon-Tyne 250-1 Newquay 219 Nice 433-9, 434-5 nightlife 22 Nîmes 417-18 Normandy 354-9 North Frisian Islands 596-8 North Rhine-Westphalia 571-80 Norwich 237-8 Notre Dame cathedral (Paris) 323 Notre Dame cathedral (Chartres) 350 Notting Hill Carnival 26, 182 Nuremberg 535-8, 536 Nuremberg Trials Memorial 535-6 Nydri 683

O

Oban 284-5 Oberammergau 543 Oberer Gletscher 1177 Obertraun 91 Óbidos 1006 Oktoberfest 27, 526, 9 Olympia 636-7 Olympics Games 686 Omalos 663 opening hours 1211, see also individual countries Ordino 46-7 Orkney Islands 293-4 Orval 153 Ostia Antica 804 ouzo 690 Oviedo 1093-4 Oxford 222-6, 224-5

P

Padua 817-18 Pal 47-8 palaces, see castles, fortresses & palaces Paleohora 663-4 Palermo 874-8, 874 Palma de Mallorca 1105-7, 1106 Pamplona 1091-2 Pantheon 783-6 Paris 315-49, 318-19, 324-5 accommodation 332-6 activities 329-30 drink 342-3 entertainment 343-5 food 336-41 internet resources 322

itineraries 315 shopping 345-9 sights 315-49 tourist information 346 tours 330-1 travel to/from 346 travel within 347-8 parks & gardens 22, see also national parks & reserves Bains des Pâquis 1156 Begijnhof 144 Bois de Boulogne 332 Bois de Vincennes 332 Englischer Garten 525 Green Park 167 Harewood House 239 Holyrood Park 272 Hortus Botanicus 935 Hyde Park 173 Jardin Botanique 1156 Jardin des Tuileries 327 Jardin du Luxembourg 321 Kensington Gardens 173 Keukenhof Gardens 943 Kew Gardens 178 La Balade de Séprais 1165 Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet 357 Monserrate Park 995 Parc de la Perle du Lac 1156 Parc des Bastions 1156 Park Güell 1069 Parque del Buen Retiro 1033 Parque de María Luisa 1113 Powerscourt Estate 716-17 Quinta da Regaleira 994 Regent’s Park 173 Rive Gauche 391 St James’s Park 167 Tiergarten 485 Villa Borghese 788 Vondelpark 934 Yorkshire Sculpture Park 240 Paros 648-50, 649 Parthenon 614 Patmos 672-3 Patra 630-1 Pei, IM 914 Pelion Peninsula 637 Peloponnese, the 629-37 Peniche 1005-6 Penzance 220-1 Pernod 1163 Perugia 854-6, 855 Phaestos 659-60 Phare de Pertusato 454 Piano, Renzo 1167 Pic du Jer 415 Picasso, Pablo 329, 1068, 1125, 1139, 1173 Picos de Europa 1093 Pindar 688

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Connemara National Park 742 Dartmoor National Park 218-19 Domaine National de Chambord 377 Duinen van Texel National Park 962 Exmoor National Park 216 Hoge Veluwe National Park 958 Hohe Tauern National Park 101-2 Ill’Wald 371 Killarney National Park 728-9 Lake District National Park 259-61 Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park 283 National Marine Park of Alonnisos 680 National Park Oosterschelde 959 Naturpark Zillertaler Alpen 99 Norfolk Broads 239 Parc Natural Régional du Vercors 402 Parc Naturel Interrégional du Marais Poitevin 410 Parc Naturel Régional des Ballons des Vosges 373 Parc Naturel Régional des Caps et Marais d’Opale 354 Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Jura 404-5 Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre 808-9 Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês 1017-18 Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa 1093 Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido 1086 Parque Natural da Arrábida 993 Peak District National Park 232-4 Pembrokeshire Coast National Park 263-4 Réserve Naturelle de Scandola 453 Sächsische Schweiz 502 Snowdonia National Park 265-7 Swiss National Park 1195-6 Yorkshire Dales National Park 241-2 Naturlandia 45 Navarra 1091-2 Naxos 650-7, 651 Nazaré 1006-7 Nea Moni 675 Nemea region 631 Netherlands, the 36, 926-74, 928, 12 accommodation 926, 969-70 arts 968 climate 926 drink 927, 969 embassies & consulates 970 exchange rates 927 food 926, 927, 969, 970 highlights 928 history 966-8 internet resources 927, 937 itineraries 927 language 927

1242

INDE X P- S

Piraeus 628-9, 628 Pisa 848-9 planning calendar of events 24-7 itineraries 28-33 travel seasons 24-7 Western Europe basics 18-19 Western Europe’s regions 34-7 Plymouth 217-18 Poitiers 410-11 Pompeii 865, 21 Poros 644 port wine 1014 Porto 1009-15, 1010-11 Portugal 36, 975-1024, 977 accommodation 975, 1019-20 activities 1020 arts 1019 climate 975 drink 976 embassies & consulates 1020 food 975, 976, 1020-1 highlights 977 history 1018-19 internet resources 976 itineraries 976 language 976 music 991 planning 975-6 travel seasons 975 travel to/from 976, 1021 travel within 1022-3 visas 1021 Positano 868-9 Potsdam 494-6 Prado museum 1027-8 Prater 59 Presqu’île 390-1 Provence 420-33 public transport 1223 punting 223, 235 Pupillin 404 Pyrgi 675 Pythagorio 674

Q

Quedlinburg 513 Quimper 360-2, 360

R

Randstad, the 941-59, 942 Ravel, Maurice 457 Ravello 870 Ravenna 835-7 Reeperbahn 587 Regensburg 538-9

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

Reims 364-6 Rembrandt van Rijn 934 Rethymno 660-1 Rheinschlucht 1194 Rhine Valley 563-5, 16 Rhineland-Palatinate 560-4 Rhodes 665-9, 666, 668 Rhône Valley 383-94 Rietveld, Gerrit 958 Rievaulx Abbey 247-8 Rijksmuseum 931 Ring of Kerry 731-3 river rafting 1194 Robin Hood’s Bay 249 Rochehaut 153 Rock of Cashel 720 Rodin, Auguste 321, 352 Roman Forum 775-6 Romantic Road 531-2 Rome 774-804, 776-7, 780-1, 784-5, 788, 790, 792-3, 5 accommodation 795-7 drink 799-800 entertainment 800-1 food 797-9 history 774-5 internet resources 786 itineraries 775 shopping 801 sights 774-94 tourist information 801-2 travel to/from 802-3 travel within 803-4 Ronda 1128-9 Rostock 516-18 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 534-5 Rotterdam 951-7, 952-3 Rouen 354-7, 356 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 456 Rubens, Pieter Paul 131, 155 Rügen 521 Running of the Bulls 26, 1091

S

Sachsenhausen 495 safety 1216, see also hitching Sagres 1001 Salamanca 1050-3, 1052 Salford Quays 253 Saline Royale 404 Salisbury 206-8 Salzbergwerk 91 Salzburg 80-8, 82-3, 14 Salzkammergut 88-93, 89 Samaria Gorge 663 Samos 673-5, 674 San Gimignano 853 San Martino di Castrozza 837-8 San Sebastián 1086-9, 1088-9 Sant Julià de Lòria 45 Santiago de Compostela 1094-6, 1096

Santorini 654-7, 655, 10 Sappho 677 Sardinia 883-9 Sarkozy, Nicolas 454 Sarlat-La-Canéda 405-7 Saronic Gulf Islands 643 Sartre, Jean-Paul 456 Saxony 496-506 Saxony-Anhalt 511-14 scams 1216 scenic journeys 22, 23, 355, 436 Schaffhausen 1190 Schiele, Egon 105 Schiller, Friedrich von 509, 600-1 Schiltach 553-4 Schilthorn 1178-9 Schleswig-Holstein 594-6 Schloss Belvedere 59 Schloss Hellbrunn 88 Schloss Schönbrunn 58 Schubert, Franz 105 Schumann, Robert 503 Schwerin 514-15 Scotland 267-92, 162-3 Segovia 1053-6, 1054-5 Semois Valley 153 senior travellers 1211 Serra da Estrela 1009 Seville 1112-18, 1114-15 Shakespeare, William 298 shopping, see also indvidual locations Christmas markets 27 Shrewsbury 228 Sicily 873-83 Siena 849-52, 850 Silves 1000-1 Sintra 994-6 Sispony 46 Sistine Chapel 783 Sitia 665 Skellig Michael 732 Skiathos 678-9 skiing 1211 Andorra 45, 48-9 Austria 96, 99 France 401, 404 Germany 542 Italy 836-7, 895 Liechtenstein 907 Portugal 1020 Spain 1142 Switzerland 1159, 1166, 1177, 1178-9, 1193-4, 1194, 1199, 1201 Skipton 241 Skopelos 679-80 Sligo 743-4 snorkelling 453 Soldeu 45 soccer, see football Sorges 406 Sorrento 867-8 Sos del Rey Católico 1086

exchange rates 1150 food 1149, 1150, 1200 highlights 1152-3 history 1196-8 internet resources 1150, 1202 itineraries 1150 language 1150, 1202, 1203 planning 1149-50 sustainability 1199 tourist information 1204 travel seasons 1149 travel to/from 1150, 1204 travel within 1204-6 Sylt 597-8 Symi 670-1 Syracuse 881-2

T

Taormina 879-80 Tarifa 1130-2 Tarquinia 805 Tarragona 1081-3, 1082 Tate Britain 167 Tate Modern 172 Tavira 998-9 taxis 1223 telephone services 1216 Teruel 1086 Tervuren 125 Texel 962 theatre 193-4, 231, 1045, 1076-7 theft 1216 Thessaloniki 638-40, 640 Thuringia 506-11 Ticino 1190-3 time 1216 Tirol 93-102 Titisee-Neustadt 554 Tivoli 804-5 Tobermory 285-6 Toledo 1060-3, 1062-3 Tomar 1007 Tombeau du Géant 153 Torcello 823 Torla 1086 Toulouse 418-20 tourist information 1216-17 Tournai 150 tours 1223 Tours (France) 378-81, 380 Tower of London 170 Traben-Trarbach 561-2 train travel 1223-6, see also scenic journeys Britain 241, 242, 292 France 437, 450 Greece 631 Portugal 1015 rail passes 1225, 1226 to/from Western Europe 1218 within Western Europe 18, 1223-6

Traunsee 93 travel seasons 18 travel to/from Western Europe 19, 1218 travel within Western Europe 18-19, 1218-26 travellers with disabilities 606, 694, 765, 898 Trevi fountain 787 Triberg 554 Trier 562-3 Troyes 367 Trujillo 1132-3 Tübingen 547 Turin 809-11 Turkey 665 Tuscany 838-54, 9 Tyne River 250 Tyrol 93-102

U

Uffizzi Gallery 839 Umbria 854-8 Unesco World Heritage sites Amalfi Coast 868 Bern 1167 Blenheim Palace 227 Bordeaux 411 Calais town hall 353 Castelgrande 1192 Castello di Montebello 1192 Catedral (Burgos) 1059 Cathédrale Notre Dame (Tournai) 150 Cathédrale St-André 411 Conwy Castle 265 Cornwall & West Devon Mining Landscape 221 Dolomites 836-7 Durham Castle & Cathedral 249-50 Epidavros 633 Giant’s Causeway 754, 10 Greenwich 177-99 Hadrian’s Wall 251-2 Hallstatt 91 Killarney National Park 728-9 Kinderdijk 956 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 979 Museu d’Història de Tarragona 1081 Nea Moni 675 Necropolis 805 Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre 808-9 Pompeii 865, 21 Pont du Gard 418 Porto 1009-15 Quedlinburg 513 Rietveld-Schröderhuis 958 Réserve Naturelle de Scandola 453 Rhodes 667 Salzburg 80 Segovia 1053-6

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INDE X S - U

Sound of Music, The 80, 81, 84, 85, 87, 88, 92 South Pennines 240 Spain 36, 1025-148, 1028-9 accommodation 1025, 1141-2 activities 1142 arts 1138 climate 1025 drink 1026, 1140-1 embassies & consulates 1142 exchange rates 1026 food 1025, 1026, 1140-1, 1142 highlights 1028 history 1136-8 internet resources 1026, 1113 itineraries 1026 language 1026, 1143 planning 1025-6 safe travel 1144 tourist information 1144 travel seasons 1025 travel to/from 1026, 1145-6 travel within 1147-8 visas 1145 Spanish Riding School (Vienna) 69 Sparta 633-4 Spetses 645 Sporades 678-80 St Andrews 286-7 St Anton am Arlberg 103-4 St Florian 75 St Goar 564 St Goarshausen 564 St Ives 219-20 St Moritz 1194-5 St Paul’s Cathedral 170 St Peter 555 St Peter’s Basilica 782 St Ursanne 1165 Steichen, Edward 923 Stein am Rhein 1190 Stemnitsa 634 Stirling 283-4 St-Malo 362-4, 363 Stoker, Bram 248 Stonehenge 208 Stow-on-the-Wold 227 Stralsund 518-20, 519 Strasbourg 368-72, 370 Stratford-upon-Avon 229-30 St-Tropez 442-4 Stuttgart 544-7, 544 surfing 305, 1142 Swarovski crystal 96 Switzerland 36, 1149-206, 1152-3 accommodation 1149, 1200-1 activities 1175, 1194, 1201 arts 1198-9 climate 1149 drink 1150, 1200 embassies & consulates 1201

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INDE X U -Z

Unesco World Heritage sites continued Torre de Belém 979 Urbino 857 Villa Adriana 804 Villa d’Este 804-5 Wartburg 508 Wieskirche 541 Urbino 857-8 Utrecht 957-9

V

Vaduz 904-6, 906 Vaison la Romaine 432-3 Val di Fassa 837 Val Gardena 837 Valais 1165-7 Valencia 1097-101, 1098 Vallée Blanche 395 Vallindross, Keti 652 van Eyck, Jan 139, 155 van Gogh, Vincent 429, 931 Vasiliki 683 Vasilikos Peninsula 685 Vathy 673-4, 683 Vatican, the 782-3 vegetarian travellers 459, 603, 690, 893, 923, 1141 Velázquez, Diego 1139 Venice 818-31, 820-1, 824-5, 826-7, 6 accommodation 823-8 activities 823 drink 829-30 entertainment 830 food 828-9 history 818-19 internet resources 828 sights 819-23 tourist information 830 travel to/from 830 travel within 830-1 Ventabren 428 Vermeer, Johannes 948, 949 Verona 815-17 Versailles 349-50 Via Algarviana 1020 Viana do Castelo 1015-16 Vianden 918-19 Victoria & Albert Museum 172 Vienna 54-72, 56-7, 60-1, 6 accommodation 63-5 activities 63 drink 66-7 entertainment 67-9 food 65-6 history 54

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

internet resources 59, 71 itineraries 55 shopping 69-72 sights 54-72 tourist information 70 tours 63 travel to/from 70-1 travel within 71-2 Vienna Boys’ Choir 69 Vikos Gorge 643 villas, see châteaux, mansions & villas visas 19, 1217, see also individual countries volcanoes 878, 880-1, 893 Volkswagen 582 Voltaire 456 Vorarlberg 102-4 Vourliotes 675

W

Wagner, Otto 63, 105 Wales 261-3, 162-3 walking, see hiking Wallonia 150-2 Warnemünde 516-18 Warwick 230-1 water sports 1017, 1020, 1201 waterfalls 101, 554, 717, 1190 Waterloo 130 Watzmann 541 weather 18 weights 1217 Weimar 508-11, 510 Weisses Arena 1193 Wells 214-15 Werfen 88-9 West Highland Way 283, 305 Westminster 166-93 Westminster Abbey 166 Westport 743 Wexford 717-18 whale-watching 285, 734, 1131 Whitby 248-9 Wicklow Way 717 wildlife centres 644, 962, see also zoos wildlife watching 285, 377, 734, 1131, 1132 William the Conqueror 455 Wiltz 920 Wimbledon 179 Winchcombe 227 Winchester 205-6 Windermere 260-1 windmills 956 Windsor 199-200 windsurfing 597, 682, 1130, 1142, 1211 wine 20 Austria 72 France 364-7, 368, 382, 404, 411, 433

Germany 560-2 Greece 631 Luxembourg 921-2 Portugal 1015 Wismar 515-16 Wolfgangsee 92 Wolfsburg 582 World War I 598-9 Battle of the Somme 355 Ypres battle sites 148-9 World War II 358, 531, 599, 967 Anne Frank Huis 967 Bastogne 151-2 Battle of the Ardennes 921 Buchenwald 511 Crete 657 Dachau 531 D-Day beaches 358-9 Dokumentation Obersalzberg 541 Eagle’s Nest 541-2 Hitler, Adolf 541, 598-9 Normandy 358-9 Nuremberg Trials Memorial 535-6 Sachsenhausen 495 Wörthersee 79 Würzburg 532-3 Wuthering Heights 240

Y

Yeats, William Butler 743 York 242-6, 244 Ypres 148-50 Ypres Salient 148-9

Z

Zagorohoria 643 Zakynthos 685-6 Zapatero, José Luís Rodríguez 1137 Zaragoza 1083-4, 1084 Zeeland 959-60 Zermatt 1165-72 Zillertal 99 Zola, Émile 426, 456 zoos 58, 95, 131, 173, see also wildlife centres Zürich 1179-86, 1180-1 accommodation 1183-4 activities 1182-3 drink 1185-6 entertainment 1185-6 food 1184-5 internet resources 1179 sights 1179, 1182 tourist information 1186 travel to/from 1186 travel within 1186

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

4

mething magical e (p818) on a sunny h far fewer tourists ght sharp and clear, me to lap up the d magical atmosr map and wander dowy backlines secret assignations onspiracies at every wo of Venice’s top leria dell’Accademia ne Peggy Guggen2), the latter of which many of the giants art.

GLENN BEANLAND

17 18 20 24 28 34

Go

ering the rlin Dry climate Warm summer,0mild winter years, the sheer Mildand year-round disbelief that the Mild summer, very cut coldthrough winter this city But best way to Coldthe climate n Berlin is to make ot or by bike – along rail (p481). Passing g Gate, analysing grafGermany de Gallery or learning GO Dec at the Documentapath brings it all into

in –May

France O Apr–Oct

DAVID PEEVERS

26 Top Experiences ....... Welcome to Western Europe ........... Need to Know ................. If You Like ........................ Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Countries at a Glance ....

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

COUNTRY & CITY • The original • Comprehensive • Adventurous

Imperial Vienna Imagine what you could do with unlimited riches and Austria’s top architects at your hands and you have the Vienna of the Habsburgs. The monumentally graceful Hofburg (p55) whisks you back to the age of empires as you marvel at the treasury’s imperial crowns, the equine ballet of the Spanish Riding School and the chandelier-lit apartments Àt for an empress. The palace is rivalled in grandeur only by the 1441-room Schloss Schönbrunn (p58), a Unesco World Heritage site, and the baroque Schloss Belvedere (p59), both set in exquisite landscaped gardens. The Hofburg

5

Your Daily Budget Budget less than

€60

» Dorm beds: €15–20 » Excellent markets and local quick eats hold costs down » Look for museum free days, walk and absorb city culture

Midrange

Britain

France

Germ

History 333 Culture 333 Nature 3

Food 333 Cities 333 Wine 333

History Beer 33 Festivals

British history reads like the history of the world, from Roman times on. Concurrently it has given English-speakers their language and much of their literature and music. Corners of the island are as beautiful as anywhere.

There’s Paris and then there’s Paris and that’s enough reason to visit France. But consider all the other extraordinary towns and regions (such as Lyon and Provence). In all of them you can enjoy fabulous French food and wine.

Germany heart of c in history 100years, fact for vi forward-l enjoys its and festiv

p160

p313

p471

Greece

Ireland

Italy

Monuments 333 Islands 333 Food 3

People 333 Culture 333 Nature 3

History Culture Food 33

The Acropolis is the iconic

The Irish are linked to their

History (R

SURVIVAL 1207 GUIDE PAGE

Directory A–Z ................. Transport ........................ Language ........................ Index ................................ Map Legend ....................

1208 1218 1227 1232 1245

s not all that jazz as ig-name rock acts also it town for this famous estival held during the Àrst wo weeks of July (www. montreuxjazz.com). Glitterai om across the globe gather or a top-end celebration f top-Áight music on the hores of Lake Geneva.

z Sanfermines (aka ‘Running f the Bulls’)

Huge male bovines and eople who want to be ose to them invade Pamlona, Spain for the famous anfermines festival 6 to 4 July, when the city is verrun with thrill-seekers, urious onlookers and, oh eah, bulls. Its most famous vent, the Encierro (Runing of the Bulls), begins at am daily.

This under-appreciated gem of the low country is high on Àne bars serving countless kinds of beer.

August Everybody’s going someplace as half of Europe shuts down to go enjoy the traditional month of holiday with the other half. If it’s near the beach, from Germany’s Baltic to Spain’s Balearic, it’s mobbed.

3 Salzburg Festival

Austria’s most renowned classical music festival, the Salzburg Festival (www. salzburgfestival.at) attracts international stars from late

Ed Int Festival

3

Italy GO Mar–Jun & Sep–Nov Greece GO Apr–May & Sep–Oct

Three week drama, com music and around the Edinburgh Two weeks Shoulder celebrated (Apr–May & (www.edfri Sep–Oct) draws inno » Moderate weather around the . means days can be cutting-edg bright and clear. and produc s » Europe is popular description

but not overrun and prices are moderate: Europeans are sleeping at home.

€60– €200

» Double room in a nice midrange hotel: €60–€150 » Stay at small hotels for a special experience

Low Season (Nov–Mar) » Outside of ski resorts and Christmas markets, most regions are quiet; much is closed.

» Lunch at top restaurants can be great value

Top End over

€200

» Stays at iconic hotels: €150 and up

» Prices reflect hope more than greed.

» Look for tastings menus at hot restaurants

» Secret time to enjoy major cities

» Enjoy the dutyf f df

Septe

SHOESTRING • Big trips, small budgets • Multicountry

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1 2 C T

Sights Activities Courses Tours

z 4 5 6

Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating

3 7 8

Entertainment Shopping Information/ Transport

Drinking

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: % h p n a i

Telephone Numbers Opening Hours Parking Nonsmoking Air-Conditioning Internet Access

W s v E c #

Wi-Fi Access Swimming Pool Vegetarian Selection English-Language Menu Family-Friendly Pet-Friendly

g f m b t j d

Bus Ferry Metro Subway London Tube Tram Train

Look out for these icons: Our author’s o recommendation

F

No payment required

green or S Asustainable option Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights

Drinking Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight

Activities, Courses & Tours Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity/ Course/Tour

Sleeping Sleeping Camping

Eating Eating

Drinking Cafe

Entertainment Entertainment

Shopping Shopping

Information Post Office Tourist Information

Transport Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/ Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Other Transport

Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass

Geographic Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Hydrography River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier

Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path

Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village

Areas Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight (Building)

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