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OUR READERS

Peter Dragicevich

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Aidan Kennedy, Alan Addison, Anto Vukovic, Andreas Vilic, Beata Åhall, Calum Munro, Carlo Iossa, Cristiana Constantinescu, Dale Hattey, David Carrizo, David Grimwood, Dudley McFadden, Elaine Crowe, Emily Durham, Gayle Galletta, George Moss, Gill Ludkiewicz, Gregoire Labbe, Jack Downton, Jane Ramsell, Kate Sandey, Lynn Hopchet, Marcel Albornoz, Maria Carmona, Mike Gerber, Nuria Zantman, Patrick Reid, Paul Dekleva, Samantha Kent, Teresa Oldham

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

AUTHOR THANKS Anja Mutić

Hvala mama, for your inspiring laughter. Obrigada, Hoji, for being there before, during and after. A huge hvala to my friends in Croatia who gave me endless recommendations – this book wouldn’t be the same without you. Special thanks go to Mila in Split. Finally, to the inspiring memory of my father who travels with me still.

Company on the road is always a treat, so many thanks to Len and Anne Erceg, Manda Wilson and Tim Moyes. Special thanks to the extended Dragičević family in Split and Vrgorac for their warm welcome and exceptional hospitality, especially Vojko and Marija Dragičević.

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344 Cover photograph: Rovinj, Istria, Alan Copson/ Getty Images

344

BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S

THIS BOOK

Destination Editor

Charlotte Orr, Erin Richards, Gabrielle Stefanos

This 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Croatia guidebook was researched and written by Anja Mutić and Peter Dragicevich. The previous edition was written by Anja Mutić and Vesna Maric. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Product Editor

Assisting Cartographer

Regional Senior Cartographer

Assisting Book Designers

Anna Tyler

Alison Ridgway

Anthony Phelan

Book Designer Katherine Marsh

Assisting Editors

Michelle Bennett, Melanie Dankel, Ali Lemer, Kate Mathews, Rosie Nicholson,

Alison Lyall

Virginia Moreno, Jennifer Mullins

Cover Researcher

Naomi Parker Thanks to Justin Flynn, Luna Soo, Saralinda Turner, Amanda Williamson

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Index A

accommodation 324-6, 337, see also individual locations activities 326, see also individual activities Ada 95 air travel airports 17 to/from Croatia 332 within Croatia 334 Ančić, Mario 307 Anića Kuk 175 animals 317-18, see also individual species Aquarium Split 18, 202 archaeological & historic sites Burnum 196 Diocletian’s Palace 14, 200-2, 214, 214, 14 Polače 273 Poreč 116 Pula 99-102 Archaeological Museum of Osijek 87 architecture 20-1, 314-15 area codes 17, 330 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts 319-22 ATMs 329

B

Badija Island 281 Bale 115 Banj 227 Banje Beach 258 Barać’s Caves 172 Baranja 91-4 Baška 162-3 basketball 307

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Batina 94 beaches 21, 230 Ada 95 Bale 115 Brela 226, 230 Dubrovnik 258 Galovac 184 Kolombarica Beach 103 Komiža 248 Krivica 156 Lopar 168 Lubenice 151, 20 Makarska 224 Medena 222 Okrug Gornji 222 Orebić 276 Pakleni Islands 240 Pantan 222 Prapratno 275 Pula 103 Sakarun Bay 188 Stara Baška 161 Supetar 227 Sveti Andrija 114 Vis Island 246 Zlatni Rat 233 bears 317 beer 311 Beli 147-8 Beram 122 bicycle travel, see cycling Bili Rat 227 Bilje 92 Biokovo National Park 225 birdwatching 318 Kopački Rit Nature Park 92 Učka Nature Park 145 Biševo 12, 249 Blue Grotto 12, 249, 12 Blue World Institute of Marine Research & Conservation 158 boat travel 334, see also canoeing & kayaking, sailing

boat trips 12, 12 Badija Island 281 Crveni Otok 114 Hvar Town 238 Rovinj 111 Sali 187 Šibenik 191 Sveti Nikola 116 Zadar 182 Bol 11, 233-5, 11 border crossings Austria 332-3 Bosnia & Hercegovina 333 Hungary 333 Montenegro 333 Serbia 334-5 Slovenia 334 Božava 188 Brač Island 19, 226-35 Brela 226, 230 Brijuni Islands 107-8 Broz, Josip (Tito) 297, 298, 299 Buba 224 budget 17 Burnum 196 bus travel to/from Croatia 332-4 within Croatia 335 business hours 17, 329-30 Buzet 126-8

C

camping 324 canoeing & kayaking Dubrovnik 259 Mali Lošinj 153 Rovinj 111 car travel 335-6, 341 Carnival 22 castles Kaštel Gomilica 223 Kaštel Kambelovac 223 Kaštel Lukšić 223 Kaštel Novi 223

Kaštel Štafilić 223 Kaštel Stari 223 Kaštel Sućurac 223 Knin Fortress 196 Morosini-Grimani Castle 124 Trakošćan Castle 14, 79-81 Trsat Castle 137 Veliki Tabor Castle 14, 82-3, 14 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Cava 258 caves Barć’s Cave 172 Dragon’s Cave 233 Grabovača Cave Park 174 Manita Peć 175 Pazin Chasm 125 Cavtat 270-1 cell phones 16, 330 Central Dalmatia 38, 197249, 198-9 climate 197 highlights 198 Cest is D’Best 23, 54 children, travel with 34-5 International Children’s Festival 193 Zagreb 59 churches & cathedrals Cathedral of St Lovro 219 Cathedral of the Assumption (Dubrovnik) 255-7 Cathedral of the Assumption (Krk Town) 159 Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary 41 Church of St Euphemia 110 Euphrasian Basilica 116 Marija Bistrica Church 83 Our Lady of Trsat Church 137 St Blaise’s Church 123

346

I N D E X C -J

churches & cathedrals continued St James’ Cathedral 191 St John the Evangelist’s Church 165 St Lucy’s Church 162 St Mark’s Cathedral 281 St Mark’s Church 44 Čikat 152 Čilić, Marin 307 cinema 320 climate 16, see also individual locations climate change 332 coffee 311, 10 consulates 327 cooking courses 308 credit cards 329 Cres Island 15, 19, 14657, 15 Cres Town 148-50 Crikvenica 137 Croatian Association of Artists 52 Croatian Museum of Tourism 143-4 Crveni Otok 114 culture 303-7 currency 16, 328 customs regulations 326 cycling 19, 326, 334, 341 Bilje 92 Krk Town 160 Kvarner 141 Mali Lošinj 153 Momjan 133 Poreč 118 Pula 102 Rab Town 165 Rovinj 111 Učka Nature Park 145

D

Ðakovački Vezovi 90 Ðakovo 90 dance 321 Danče 258 Dance & Nonverbal Theatre Festival 23-4, 124 dangers, see safety Days of Jules Verne 125 deer 317 Delnice 140 Dingač 275 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Diocletian’s Palace 14, 2002, 214, 214, 14 disabilities, travellers with 331 discount cards 326-7 diving & snorkelling 19, 231, 326 Beli 148 Bol 233-4 Cres 149 Dubrovnik 258 Hvar Town 237 Krk Town 160 Mali Lošinj 153 Maškin 114 Mljet Island 274 Poreč 118 Pula 102 Rab Town 165-7 Rovinj 111 Sali 187 Supetar 227 Vis Town 245 Dolac Market 41 dolphins 158 Dragon’s Cave 233 drinks 21, 311-12, 339 driving, see car travel driving licences 335 Drvenik Mali 222 Drvenik Veli 222 Dubrovnik 9, 38, 251-70, 256, 260-1, 5, 9, 264, 265 accommodation 259-66 activities 258-9 climate 250 drinking & nightlife 267-8 festivals & events 259 food 266-7 information 268 medical services 268 shopping 268 sights 251-8 tourist information 269 tours 259 transport 269-70 Dubrovnik Summer Festival 23 Dugi Otok 186-8 Dugi Rat 226

E

economy 286 Elafiti Islands 272 electricity 328 embassies 327 emergencies 17

environment 316-18 environmental issues 318 Euphrasian Basilica 116 events 22-3 exchange rates 17

F

Feast of St Blaise 22 Feast of St Martin 25 ferries 334 Festival of Subotina 127 Festival Opatija 144 festivals 22-3, see also individual locations films 320 flora 318 food 12, 21, 308-13, 338, 11, 12, see also individual locations football 306 For Festival 23 Fritzy Palace 153 Fuliranje 55 Full Moon Festival 24-5

G

galleries, see museums & galleries Galovac 184 Game of Thrones 258 gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 62, 306, 327 Gospić 173-4 Grabovača Cave Park 174 Gračišće 126 Gradina 284 Green Grotto 249 griffon vultures 148, 150 Grohote 217 Grožnjan 132-3 Gustafi 321

H

health 327-8 Hideout 23, 24 hiking 19 Biokovo National Park 225 Gračišće 126 Mali Lošinj 153 Medvednica Nature Park 70 Orebić 276-7 Paklenica National Park 174 Poreč 118

Rab Town 165 Risnjak National Park 140 Samobor 69 Split 202-3 Učka Nature Park 145 historic sites, see  archaeological & historic sites history 288-302 Bosnia & Hercegovina 301-2 Christianity 290-1 early inhabitants 288 EU recognition 300-1 Habsburgs 293 Homeland War 300 Napoleonic invasion 294 Ottoman Turks 292-3 Romans 289-90 WWI 295-6 WWII 296-7 Yugoslavia 295-6, 297, 298-300 holidays 330 Holy Week 23 horseback riding 19, 145 hot springs 78, 82 Hrelić 65 Hum 128-9 Hvar Island 235-44 Hvar Town 10, 19, 236-42, 238, 10, 28

I

Ilok 96 Ilovik 155 INmusic Festival 23, 54 insurance 328, 335 International Children’s Festival 193 International Folklore Festival 54 International Puppet Theatre Festival 54-5 internet access 328 internet resources 17 Istria 11, 37, 97-133, 98 climate 97 highlights 98 itineraries 26-33 Ivanišević, Goran 307

J

Jadrolinija 155 Jelsa 243-4 Jerolim 240

3 47

K

L

Labin 121-3 Lake Mir 187 landmines 330 language 16, 303, 337-41 Lapad Bay 258 legal matters 328 lesbian travellers 62, 306, 327 Lighting Giants 18 Lika 171-6 Limska Draga Fjord 115

M

Makarska 223-6 Makarska Riviera 223-6 Maksimir Park 50 Mala Učka 145 Mali Lošinj 152-6 Mali Plac na Tavanu 65 Mali Ston 275 Malinska 158-9 Manita Peć 175 maps 328 Marija Bistrica 83 markets 65 Dolac Market 41 Fuliranje 55 Hrelić 65 Mali Plac na Tavanu 65 Marulić, Marko 319 Maškin 114 measures 328 Medena 222 medical services 327 Međimurje 79 Medvedgrad 50 Medvednica Nature Park 70 Mekićevica 238 Milna 246 Mlini 240 Mljet Island 10, 19, 273-4, 10 Mljet National Park 273 mobile phones 16, 330 Momjan 133 money 16, 17, 328-9 Montenegro 271 Morosini-Grimani Castle 124 Mošćenička Draga 147 Mostar 271 motorcycle travel 335-6 Motovun 129-31 Motovun Film Festival 24, 129 mountain biking, see  cycling Mt Biokovo 225

Mt Kastav 141 Murter Island 189-90 museums & galleries Archaeological Museum of Osijek 87 Croatian Association of Artists 52 Croatian Museum of Tourism 143-4 Fritzy Palace 153 Museum of Broken Relationships 41 Museum of Contemporary Art 50 Museum of Slavonia 85-7 Museum of the Krapina Neanderthal 81 Staro Selo Museum 83 Street Art Museum 54 War Photo Limited 253-4 music 320-1 Music Biennale Zagreb 22, 53 Mužilovčica 70

N

national parks 21, 316-17 Biokovo National Park 225 Kornati National Park 189 Krka National Park 13, 194-6, 13 Mljet National Park 273 Paklenica National Park 174-6 Plitvice Lakes National Park 9, 171-2, 8, 33 Risnjak National Park 140 nature parks Kopački Rit Nature Park 15, 91-2, 15 Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 68-70 Medvednica Nature Park 70 Telašćica Nature Park 187 Učka Nature Park 145 naturism 104 Nerezine 154 newspapers 328 Northern Dalmatia 38, 169-96, 170 climate 169 highlights 170 Novalja 178-9 Novigrad 122 Nugal 224

O

Okrug Gornji 222 olive oil 310, 20 Opatija 142-6 opening hours 17, 329-30 Oprtalj 122 Orebić 276-7 Osijek 85-91, 88 Ošljak 184 Osor 151-2 otters 317 Our Lady of Trsat Church 137

P

Pag Island 19, 176-9, 231 Pag Town 176-7 painting 322 Pakleni Islands 240 Paklenica National Park 174-6 Palmižana 240 Pantan 222 paragliding Crikvenica 137 Motovun 129 Samobor 69 Učka Nature Park 145 parks & gardens, see also national parks, nature parks Komrčar Park 164 Maksimir Park 50 Punta Corrente Forest Park 110 Parun, Vesna 319 passports 331 Pazin 124-6 Pazin Chasm 125 Pelješac Peninsula 274-84 phonecards 330-1 photography 330 Piškera 189 planning budgeting 17 calendar of events 22 children 34-5 Croatia basics 16-17 Croatia’s regions 36-8 internet resources 17 itineraries 26-33 repeat visitors 18 travel seasons 16 plants 318 Plitvice Lakes National Park 9, 171-3, 8, 33 Polače 273 politics 301-2

I N D E X K - P

Karanac 93-4 Kaštel Gomilica 223 Kaštel Kambelovac 223 Kaštel Lukšić 223 Kaštel Novi 223 Kaštel Štafilić 223 Kaštel Stari 223 Kaštel Sućurac 223 Kaštela 222-3 kayaking, see canoeing & kayaking Klanjec 83 Knin 196 Knin Fortress 196 Koločep 272 Kolombarica Beach 103 Komiža 248 Komrčar Park 164 Konavle 272 Kopačevo 92 Kopački Rit Nature Park 15, 91-2, 15 Korčula Island 277-84 Korčula Town 19, 279-84, 280 Kornat 189 Kornati Islands 19, 188-9 Kornati National Park 189 Košljun 161 Kostelić, Ivica 307 Kostelić, Janica 307 Kotli 128 Krapina 81-2 Krivica 156 Krk Island 157-63 Krk Town 159-61 Krka Monastery 195-6 Krka National Park 13, 194-6, 13 Krleža, Miroslav 319 Kumrovec 83 Kvarner 37, 134-68, 135 climate 134 highlights 135

literature 319-20 Ljeto na Strossu 23, 54 Ljubičić, Ivan 307 Lokrum Island 271 Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 68-70 Lopar 168 Lopud 272 Lošinj Island 19, 146-57 Lozovac 195 Lubenice 151, 20 Lumbarda 284

348

I N D E X P -W

Polo, Marco 283 population 287 Poreč 115-20, 117 Postup 275 Prapratno 275 Preko 184 Premantura Peninsula 103 Primošten 194 Prvić 191 public holidays 330 Pula 99-107, 100, 30 Pula Film Festival 102 Punat 161 Punta Bjanca 188 Punta Corrente Forest Park 110

R

Rab Island 19, 163-8 Rab Town 164-8, 166, 29 radio 328 rafting 19 Ragusa 293 rakija 311 Raša 122 religion 287, 305 Rijeka 136-42, 138 Risnjak National Park 140 road rules 336 Roč 128 rock climbing 19, 326 Baška 162 Paklenica National Park 175 Rovinj 111 Samobor 69 Rogač 217 Roški Slap 195 Rovinj 108-14, 109, 31, 229 Rt Kamenjak 13, 103, 13 ruins, see archaeological & historic sites Rukavac 246

S

safety 330 sailing 326 Sakarun Bay 188 Sali 187-8 same-sex marriage 306 Samobor 69 scuba diving, see diving & snorkelling Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

sculpture 322 Sea Turtle Rescue Centre 18, 153 Severina 321 sheep 148 shopping, see individual locations Šibenik 190-4, 192 Šibenik-Knin County 188-96 Siege of Vukovar 95 Šipan 272 Šipanska Luka 272 skiing 22, 307 Skradin 194 Skradinski Buk 195 Slanica 189 Slavonia 37, 84-96, 86 climate 84 highlights 86 Sljeme 53, 70 snakes 318 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling soccer 306 Sokolarski Centre 195 Solin 217-18 Šolta 217 Sonus 25 Soundwave 24 Southern Dalmatia 38, 250-84, 252 climate 251 highlights 252 Sovinjsko Polje 129 Špancirfest 25, 76 Split 14, 38, 200-17, 204-5, 208-9 accommodation 206-9 activities 202-3 climate 197 drinking & nightlife 212-13 entertainment 213 festivals & events 203-6 food 209-11 internet access 215 medical services 215 shopping 213-15 sights 200-2 tourist information 215 tours 203 transport 215-17 travel agencies 215 walking tour 214, 214 sports 306-7 Srebrna 246 St Blaise’s Church 123 St James’ Cathedral 191

St John the Evangelist’s Church 165 St Lucy’s Church 162 St Mark’s Cathedral 281 St Mark’s Church 44 Stara Baška 161 Stari Grad 242-3 Staro Selo Museum 83 Stiniva 246 Stipanska 240 Stomorska 217 Ston 275 Stončica 246 Street Art Museum 54 street names 329 Subversive Festival 23 Šuker, Davor 306 Šulići 258 Sunčana Uvala 152 Šunj 272 Supetar 227-33 Supetar Summer 232 Susak 155 Sveta Katarina 114 Sveti Andrija 114 Sveti Jakov 258 Sveti Jure 225 Sveti Nikola 116 Svetvinčenat 124 sword dance 279

T

Tabor Film Festival 82 taxes 329 tea 311 Telašćica Nature Park 187 telephone services 330-1 tennis 306-7 time 16, 331, 340 tipping 329 Tisno 189-90 Tito 297, 298, 299 tourist information 331 tours 336, see also boat trips, walking tours, individual locations train travel to/from Croatia 333-4 within Croatia 336 Trakošćan Castle 14, 79-81 travel to/from Croatia 332-4 travel within Croatia 334-6 trekking, see hiking Trogir 218-22, 220 Trpanj 276 Trpimir 291 Trsat Castle 137

Trsteno Arboretum 272-3 truffles 127 turtles 18, 153 TV 328 Tvrđa 85-7

U

Učka Nature Park 145 Ugljan 184 Ultra Europe 24 Unije 155 Unknown Festival 25 Urban Festival 53-4

V

vacations 330 Valun 150-1, 229 Varaždin 74-8, 75 Varaždin Baroque Evenings 25, 76 Varaždinske Toplice 78-9 vegan travellers 60, 310-11 vegetarian travellers 60, 310-11 Vela Draga 145 Vela Luka 227, 284 Vela Spila 284 Veli Lošinj 156-7 Veli Rat 188 Veliki Tabor Castle 14, 82-3, 14 Verne, Jules 125 Verudela Peninsula 103 video 328 Vidova Gora 233 Viganj 276 Vis Island 19, 244-9, 231 Vis Town 245-8 visas 16, 331 Vlačica 227 Volosko 144 volunteering 331 Vošac peak 225 Vrbnik 161-2 Vrilo 227 Vrsar 122 Vukovar 94-6 Vukovar Film Festival 25

W

walking, see hiking walking tours Diocletian’s Palace 214, 214 Zagreb 51, 51 War Photo Limited 253-4 water 311

3 49 Međimurje 79 Slavonia 93 women in Croatia 305-6 women travellers 331 World Festival of Animated Film 54 World Theatre Festival 25, 55

Z

Zadar 15, 179-86, 180, 15, 27, 33 Zagorje 36, 71-83, 72-3 climate 71 highlights 72

Zagreb 36, 40-68, 42-3, 46-7 accommodation 55-7 activities 53 climate 40 drinking & nightlife 10, 60-4 entertainment 64-5 festivals & events 53-5 food 57-60 highlights 42 internet access 66 medical services 66 shopping 65-6 sights 41-52

tourist information 66 tours 53 transport 66-8 travel agencies 66 walking tour 51, 51 Zagreb Film Festival 25, 55 Zagrebdox 22 Ždrilca 240 Zlarin 191 Zlatni Rat 233 Zoo Osijek 87 Zrće Beach Festivals 18 Zrenj 122 Žut 189

I N D E X W -Z

weather 16, see also individual locations websites 17 weights 328 white-water rafting 19 wi-fi 328 Wild Asparagus Harvest 23 wildlife 317-18 windsurfing 19 Bol 233 Viganj 276 wine 21, 311-12 wine regions 311-12 Ilok 96

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Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight

Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity

Sleeping Sleeping Camping

Eating Eating

Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe

Entertainment Entertainment

Shopping Shopping

Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information

Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village

Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/Railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail

Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef

Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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