87 2

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OUR READERS

Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Sain Alizada, Matthieu Brusseau, Tine Declerck, Stewart Gray, Balawyn Jones, Andy Leerock, Boyan Lin, Charlie Merry, Felicity Milanovic, Maria Skinnemoen, Jukka Sutinen, Connor Yocum, Zhu Zhengqing

Illustrations p66–7 by Javier Zarracina & Michael Weldon, p90–1, p92–3, p310–11, p318–19, p418–19, p446–7, p514–15, p518–19, p532–3, p546–7, p574–5, p786–7 and p794–5 by Javier Zarracina Cover photograph: Detail of timber-framed buildings, Copenhagen, Denmark, The Picture Store / Alamy ©

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163–344.

THIS BOOK The 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Europe on a Shoestring guidebook was curated by Mark Baker, Tom Masters, Korina Miller, Simon Richmond, Andy Symington and Nicola Williams. This guidebook was produced by the following: Associate Product Director Kirsten Rawlings

Destination Editors Helen Elfer, Gemma Graham, James Smart, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic, Clifton Wilkinson Product Editors Elizabeth Jones, Kate James Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designers Cam Ashley, Kerrianne Jenkins, Katherine Marsh, Jessica Rose, Wibowo Rusli

Assisting Editors Andrea Dobbin, Katie Connolly, Bella Li, Katie O’Connell, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala Twomey Cover Designer Campbell McKenzie Thanks to James Hardy, Liz Heynes, Indra Kilfoyle, Claire Murphy, Darren O’Connell, Diana Saengkham, Eleanor Simpson, Angela Tinson, Tracy Whitmey

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

87 3

Index A

Aachen 251 Aarhus 158-9 Abisko 170 accommodation 22, 39, 850-1, see also individual locations Accursed Mountains 650 Acropolis (Athens) 494, 544, 546-7, 19, 546-7 activities 27-31, 39, see also individual activities, individual locations air passes 860 air travel 43, see also individual countries to/from Europe 859 within Europe 860 Aix-en-Provence 340 Akureyri 205-6 Åland 179 Albania 610-11, 647-54, 604-5 accommodation 653 climate 611 costs 653 food 653 highlights 610-11 holidays 653 language 864 money 653 population 611 public holidays 653 religion 611 telephone services 653 travel to/from 653 travel within 610, 653-4 visas 653 weather 611 Albanian language 864 Albanian Riviera 652 Alcobaça 395

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

alcohol 853, see also beer, vodka, whisky, wine Aletsch Glacier 300, 358 Algarve, the 468-75, 470-1 Alhambra 392, 446-7. 448-9, 446-7 Amboise 327-8 Amsterdam 16, 216, 278-84, 280, 282-3, 16 accommodation 279-81 activities 279 drinking 283-4 entertainment 284 food 281-3 LGBT travellers 278 nightlife 283-4 sights 278-9 tourist information 284 tours 279 travel to/from 284 travel within 284 Ancient Agora 544 Ancient Delphi 557 Andalucía 439-58 Ankara 588-92, 590 Antalya 571-3, 572 Antwerp 263-6, 264 Anvers, see Antwerp aquariums 404 Aquarium San Sebastián 404-5 Malmö Museer 167 Musée Océanographique de Monaco 346 Oceanogràfic 435 Polaria 195 Arc de Triomphe 308 architecture 24, 821 art collections 26, see also  museums & galleries Athens 19, 494-5, 544-56, 548-9, 19 accommodation 551 drinking 552-3 emergencies 553 entertainment 552-3

festivals 551 food 551-2 safe travel 553 shopping 553 sights 544-50 tourist information 553 tours 550-1 travel to/from 553, 556 travel within 556 ATMs 853 aurora borealis 94 Iceland 148 Norway 197 Sweden 142 Auschwitz-Birkenau 692, 725 Austria 302-3, 367-88, 296-7 accommodation 386, 387 business hours 387 climate 303 costs 387 food 387 highlights 302-3 holidays 387 internet resources 386 money 387 opening hours 387 population 303 public holidays 387 religion 303 telephone services 387 travel to/from 387 travel within 302, 388 visas 387 weather 303 Avignon 340-1 Ávila 404 Aya Sofya 497, 574-5, 579, 574-5 Azores, the 485

B

Bacharach 245 Balearic Islands 428-33

Balkans 49, 603-86, 604-5, see also individual countries itineraries 604-5 ballooning 596 Baltic coast 806-48, 778-9, see also individual countries itineraries 778-9 bank transfers 854 Barcelona 17, 392, 416-26, 420-1, 424-5, 2, 17 accommodation 422-3 drinking 424-6 entertainment 426 food 423 nightlife 424-6 sights 416-22 tourist information 426 travel to/from 426 travel within 426 bargaining 23 bars 26, see also individual locations Basel 301, 360-1 Batalha 395 Bath 55, 75-7, 76 baths, see hamams, hot springs, saunas Bayeux 322-3 Bayeux Tapestry 322 beaches 24-5 Andalucía 458 Budva 639 Cadiz 452 Portugal 467, 474, 475 Santorini 561 Ventspils 832 Beaune 332 beer, see also breweries Belgium 214, 269 Czech Republic 691 festivals 28, 31, 213 Begijnhof 268 Belarus 775, 774 Belfast 127-31, 128

8 74

I N D E X B - C

Belfort 268 Belgium 214-15, 257-75, 210-11 accommodation 274 business hours 274 climate 215 costs 274 food 274 highlights 214-15 holidays 274 LGBT travellers 274 money 274 opening hours 274 population 215 public holidays 274 religion 215 telephone services 274 travel to/from 274-5 travel within 214, 274-5 weather 215 Belgrade 607, 662-6, 664-5 Berat 610, 651-2 Berchtesgaden 235-6 Bergen 146-7, 189-91 Berlin 12, 212, 218-28, 218, 220, 222, 224-5, 12 accommodation 221 drinking 223-4 entertainment 224 LGBT travellers 223 nightlife 223-4 sights 218-21 tourist information 225 tours 221 travel to/from 225-8 travel within 228 Berlin Wall 220, 226-7, 226-7 Bern 356-7, 291 Bernese Oberland 356-9 bicycle travel, see cycling Big Ben 60, 10 Bilbao 406-9, 407 birdwatching 470, 475 Birkenau 692, 725 Bitola 658-9 Black Forest 213, 241-3, 242 Bled 732-5, 734 Blois 325-6 Blue Lagoon 200, 95 boat travel 860, see also individual countries

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Bohemia 708-10 Bolshoi Theatre 791 books 21 Bordeaux 337-8 Bosnia & Hercegovina 6089, 630-8, 604-5 accommodation 637 climate 609 costs 637, 638 food 635, 638 highlights 608-9 history 631 money 637-8 population 609 religion 609 safe travel 637 travel to/from 638 travel within 608, 638 visas 638 weather 609 Bovec 733 Braga 485-6 Bran 758 Bran Castle 699, 758 Brandenburg Gate 218, 12 Brandenburger Tor 218, 12 Braşov 755-8 Braubach 246 Bremen 255-6 Brest 775 breweries Beck’s Brewery 255 Brouwerij Troost 283 Carlsberg Visitors Centre 151 Guinness Storehouse 108, 3 Heineken Experience 279 Stella Artois 263 Trondheim Microbryggeri 193 Bridge of Sighs 498 Britain, see Great Britain Brittany 323-5 Brno 711-12 Bruges 214, 268-71, 270 Brussels 257-62, 258-9 Bruxelles, see Brussels Bryggen 189 Bucharest 698, 699, 74953, 752 Budapest 16, 738-45, 740, 742, 2, 16 budget 21, 38-42 Budva 638-40, 639, 770 Bulgaria 670-86, 612-13, 604-5 accommodation 684, 685

beaches 612 climate 613 costs 685 food 685 highlights 612-13 holidays 685 language 864 money 684-5 population 613 public holidays 685 religion 613 telephone services 685 travel to/from 685 travel within 612, 686 visas 685 weather 613 Bulgarian language 864 bullfighting 408, 458 bungee jumping 358, 830 Burgas 682-3 Burgos 409-10 Burgundy 330-2 bus travel 44-6, 860-1, see also individual countries business hours, see  individual countries

C

Cadaqués 427 Cádiz 452-4, 453 cafes 26, see also individual locations Cambridge 55, 81-2 Camino de Santiago 393 Camp Nou 422 camping 850-1 Campo de’ Fiori 525 cannabis 853 Cannes 344-5 Canterbury 73 Cape Sounion 545 Cappadocia 496, 594-8, 595 car travel 46, 861-2, see also individual countries Cardiff 56, 87-8 Carnac 324 Colosseum 516 Carnival Italy 27, 502, 29 Netherlands 27 Portugal 477 Spain 453 Carpathian mountains 699 Cascais 467-8 Casino de Monte Carlo 346 castles & palaces 24, see also fortresses Akershus Slott 186

Alcazaba (Málaga) 455-6 Alcázar (Seville) 439 Alhambra (Granada) 392, 446-7. 448-9, 446-7 Ayasuluk Fortress (Selçuk) 576 Binnenhof (Den Haag) 286 Bled Castle 732 Bran Castle 699, 758 Buckingham Palace (London) 61 Car Samoil’s Castle (Ohrid) 657 Cardiff Castle 87-8 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 439 Castello Visconteo (Locarno) 363 Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon) 460 Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) 466 Catherine Palace (Tsarkoe Selo) 801-2 Cēsis Castle 831 Český Krumlov State Castle 709 Château de Bouillon 273 Château de Chambord 326 Château de Chenonceau 327 Château de Cheverny 326 Château de St-Malo 324 Château de Versailles 318-19, 320, 318-19 Château de Villandry 327 Château Royal d’Amboise 327 Château Royal de Blois 325 Conwy Castle 56, 89 Diocletian’s Palace (Split) 619, 621 Dolmabahçe Palace (İstanbul) 581 Dunvegan Castle (Skye) 104 Edinburgh Castle 89, 96, 95 Eger Castle 745 Gravensteen (Ghent) 266 Het Steen (Antwerp) 264 Hofburg (Innsbruck) 367, 382 Kaiserappartements (Vienna) 367

8 75 Villa Medici (Rome) 525 Wawel Royal Castle (Kraków) 721 Windsor Castle 74 Würzburg Residenz 238 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Causeway Coast 131-2 caves Eisriesenwelt 303, 381 Korykeon Cave 557 Postojna Cave 695, 736 Werfen 381 cell phones 20, 855, see also individual countries cemeteries 275 Capuchin Monastery 711 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 309 Fromelles (Pheasant Wood) Cemetery & Museum 322 Les Catacombes 305 Lychakiv Cemetery 772 Normandy American Cemetery 323 Prague Jewish Cemetery 705 Warsaw Jewish Cemetery 717 Ypres 272 Central Europe 49, 687776, 688-9, see also individual countries itineraries 688-9 Cēsis 830-2, 831 Český Krumlov 690, 70910, 710 Cetinje 644-5 Chamonix 299, 335-6, 290 Champagne 299, 328-30 Charles Bridge 690 charter flights 43 cheese 217 chocolate 215 churches & cathedrals Aachen cathedral 251 Aleksander Nevski Church (Sofia) 613, 670-1 Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral (Tallinn) 808-9, 18 Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar (Barcelona) 417 Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano (Rome) 528 Basilica di San Marco (Venice) 498

Basilica di Santa Croce 509-10 (Florence) Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute (Venice) 498 Basilica of St Stephen (Budapest) 741 Basilique du Sacré-Cœur (Paris) 309 Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (Lyon) 333 Basilique St-Rémi (Reims) 328 Canterbury Cathedral 73 Catedral (Burgos) 409 Catedral (Valencia) 433 Catedral & Giralda (Seville) 439, 554 Catedral de Cádiz 452 Catedral de Santiago de Compostela 414 Cathedral of St Domnius (Split) 621 Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) 614 Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Lausanne) 353 Cathédrale Notre Dame (Reims) 328 Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris 305, 4, 11 Cathédrale St-André (Bordeaux) 337 Cathédrale St-Jean (Lyon) 333 Cathédrale St-Pierre (Geneva) 350 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Lugano) 363-4 Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angioli (Lugano) 364 Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo (Ohrid) 657 Church on the Spilled Blood (St Petersburg) 793, 13 Dom (Salzburg) 377 Domkyrka (Uppsala) 166 Duomo (Florence) 508 Frauenkirche (Dresden) 228 Fraumünster (Zürich) 361 Freiburger Münster 243 Hallgrímskirkja (Reykjavík) 197 Hofkirche (Innsbruck) 382 I Frari (Venice) 499

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo & Capela dos Ossos 469 Kaiserdom (Speyer) 241 Kaliningrad Cathedral 802 Kölner Dom 246 La Catedral (Barcelona) 416 La Sagrada Família (Barcelona) 417, 41819, 2, 17, 418-19 Lund Cathedral 167 Mont St-Michel 323 Nidaros Domkirke (Trondheim) 193 Onze-LieveVrouwekathedraal (Antwerp) 263 Rīga Cathedral 821 Roskilde Domkirke 157 Sainte-Chapelle (Paris) 305 Salisbury Cathedral 74 Santuario della Madonna del Sasso (Locarno) 363 Sé (Faro) 468-9 Sedlec Ossuary (Kutná Hora) 691, 708 St Anne’s Church (Warsaw) 715 St-Baafskathedraal (Ghent) 266 St Basil’s Cathedral (Moscow) 784, 770 St Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny) 117 St Mary’s Basilica (Kraków) 721, 15 St Nicholas Church (Prague) 704 St Paul’s Cathedral (London) 61 St Peter’s Basilica (Vatican) 517, 522 St Sophia’s Cathedral (Kyiv) 764 St Tryphon’s Cathedral (Kotor) 642 St Vitus Cathedral (Prague) 691, 700 Sts Peter & Paul Cathedral (Kaunas) 841 Stavropoleos Church (Bucharest) 749 Stephansdom (Vienna) 367, 370 Storkyrkan (Stockhom) 161 Sveta Sofia Church 671

I N D E X C

Kaiserburg (Nuremburg) 239 Kalaja (Berat) 651 Karlštejn Castle 706 Kilkenny Castle 116 Kronborg Slot (Helsingør) 141, 156 Kungliga Slottet (Stockhom) 161 Ljubljana Castle 727-8 Malbork Castle 692, 718 Olavinlinna (Savonlinna) 182 Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania (Vilnius) 834-5 Palácio Nacional de Sintra 466 Palacio Real (Madrid) 396 Palais des Papes (Avignon) 340 Palais Princier de Monaco 346 Peterhof 801 Prague Castle 690-1, 700, 701 Residenz (Salzburg) 377 Royal Castle (Warsaw) 714 Royal Palace (Budapest) 696, 738 San Lorenzo de El Escorial 404 Schloss Belvedere 371 Schloss Chalottenburg 220 Schloss Eggenberg (Graz) 374 Schloss Heidelberg 240 Schloss Hohenschwangau (Füssen) 237 Schloss Mirabell (Salzburg) 379 Schloss Neuschwanstein (Füssen) 212, 236-7 Schloss Nymphenburg 234 Schloss Schönbrunn (Vienna) 371, 18 Sigulda Medieval Castle 828-9 Topkapı Palace (İstanbul) 580 Trakai Castle 840 Turaida Museum Reserve (Sigulda) 828 Turun Linna (Turku) 177 Urquhart Castle (Inverness) 103 Vianden 277

8 76

I N D E X C - F

churches & cathedrals continued Tuomiokirkko (Tampere) 179 Turun Tuomiokirkko (Turku) 176 Vilnius Cathedral 835 Wawel Cathedral (Kraków) 721 Westminster Abbey 60 York Minster 82 Cinque Terre 493, 513, 7, 554-5 Çıralı 576 Cliffs of Moher 59, 126 climate 20, 27-31 climate change 859 clothing 22 coffee 372 Coimbra 395, 478-81, 479 Cologne 246-9, 248-9 Connemara 126-7 consulates 851-2 Conwy 89 Conwy Castle 56, 89 Copenhagen 140, 150-6, 152-3 Córdoba 443-8, 444 Corfu 495, 538-43 Corfu Town 539-43, 540-1 Cork 118-21, 120 Corniches 298 Corniglia 813 costs 21, 850, see also individual countries Côte d’Azur 341-7 credit cards 853-4 Croatia 606-7, 614-30, 604-5 accommodation 629 business hours 629 climate 607 costs 629 food 629 highlights 606-7 language 864-5 money 629 opening hours 629 population 607 travel to/from 629-30 travel within 606, 630 visas 629 weather 607 Croatian language 864-5

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Curonian Spit National Park 783, 846-7 currency 20, 853, see also individual countries customs regulations 851 cycling 46, 860 Austria 388 Denmark 140-1 Finland 145 France 349 Ireland 136 Latvia 825 London 72 Netherlands 216, 285 Czech language 865 Czech Republic 690-1, 700-13, 688-9 accommodation 712 business hours 712 climate 691 costs 712, 713 food 690, 713 highlights 690-1 holidays 712-13 language 865 money 712 opening hours 712 population 691 public holidays 712-13 telephone services 713 travel to/from 713 travel within 690, 713 weather 691

D

Dalí, Salvador 427 Dalmatia 628 dangers, see safe travel Danish language 865 Danube, the 373 Daugavpils 832 Delft 216-17, 287-8 Delphi 494, 556-8, 557, 558 Den Haag 285-7 Denmark 140-1, 150-61, 138-9 accommodation 160 business hours 160 climate 141 cycling 140-1 highlights 140-1 holidays 160 language 865 LGBT travellers 160 money 160 opening hours 160 population 141

public holidays 160 religion 141 telephone services 160 travel to/from 161 travel within 140, 161 weather 141 Derry 132-4, 133 Dihovo 660 Dijon 330-2, 331 disabilities, travellers with 856-7 discount cards 39 Belfast 130 Berlin 219 Bordeaux 337 Dublin 109 Finland 184 Freiburg 243 Innsbruck 384 Luxembourg 277 Rīga 826 Rome 525 Salzburg 377 Salzkammergut 381 Switzerland 366 Venice 505 Vienna 367 diving 634 Dracula 757, 758, 760 Dresden 228-30, 229 drugs 853, 854-5 Druskininkai 840-1 Dublin 16, 58, 108-16, 110-1, 3 accommodation 112-13 drinking 113-14 entertainment 114-15 food 113, 114 nightlife 113-14 sights 108-12 tourist information 115 tours 112 travel to/from 115-16 travel within 116 Dubrovnik 14, 606, 625-9, 626-7, 14 Dune du Pilat 299, 338 Durmitor National Park 609, 645 Düsseldorf 249-51, 250 Dutch language 865

E

Eastern Europe 49, 687776, 688-9, see also individual countries itineraries 688-9 Edinburgh 57, 89-99, 96

accommodation 97 drinking 98 entertainment 98 food 97-8 nightlife 98 sights 89, 96-7 tourist information 98 travel to/from 98-9 travel within 98-9 Edinburgh International Festival 30, 97 Eger 697, 745-6 Eiffel Tower 298, 304 Eisriesenwelt 303 El Escorial 404 electricity 851 embassies 851-2 emergencies 21, see also individual countries England 54-5, 60-87, 52-3, see also Great Britain climate 55 highlights 54-5 population 55 religion 55 transport 54 weather 55 Épernay 329-30 Ephesus 496, 576, 578, 555 Escher, MC 286 Estonia 781, 806-21, 806 accommodation 820 highlights 781 holidays 820 language 866 public holidays 820 telephone services 820 tourist information 820 travel to/from 820 travel within 780, 820-1 Estonian language 866 etiquette 23 Eton 73-4 events 27-31 Évora 394, 475-6 exchange rates 21, 854 EXIT Festival 30, 607, 667

F

fado 465 Faro 468-72, 469 FC Barcelona 422 ferries, see boat travel festivals 27-31, 39, see also music festivals Figueres 427 Fimmvörðuháls 149

87 7 Petrovaradin Citadel (Novi Sad) 666 Sighişoara Citadel 759 Suomenlinna (Helsinki) 173 Tower of London 61 Tsarevets Fortress (Veliko Târnovo) 679 Tvrdina Kale Fortress (Skopje) 655 Vyšehrad Citadel (Prague) 705 France 298-9, 304-49, 296-7 accommodation 348 business hours 348 climate 299 costs 348 discounts 349 food 295 highlights 298-9 holidays 348 internet resources 348 itineraries 296-7 language 866 money 348 opening hours 348 population 299 public holidays 348 religion 299 telephone services 348 travel to/from 349 travel within 298, 349 visas 349 weather 299 Frank, Anne 278 Frankfurt 243 Freiburg 243 French language 866 French Riviera 341-7 Füssen 236-7

G

Galicia 416 galleries, see museums & galleries Galway 58, 124-6, 125 gardens, see parks & gardens Gaudí, Antoni 417, 428 gay travellers 852, see also individual countries Geirangerfjorden 146, 192-3 gelato 529 Geneva 350-3, 351 Georgia 749, 748 German language 866-7

Germany 212-3, 218-57, 210-11 accommodation 256 business hours 256 climate 213 costs 256 food 256 highlights 212-13 holidays 256 itineraries 210-11 language 866-7 LGBT travellers 256 money 256 opening hours 256 population 213 public holidays 256 religion 213 telephone services 256 travel to/from 256-7 travel within 212, 256-7 weather 213 Ghent 266-8, 267 Giant’s Causeway 59, 131-2, 33 Girona 426-8 Glacier Express 301 Glasgow 57, 99-103, 100-1 glassware 500 Glastonbury 77 Glastonbury Festival 29, 77 gluten-free travel 314 Golden Circle (Iceland) 201-2 Göreme 594-8 Gospa od Škrpjela 643 Göteborg 142-3, 168-9 Gotland 169-70 Granada 448-52, 449 Grand Bazaar (İstanbul) 581 Grand Canal (Venice) 51415, 12, 514-15 Graz 303, 374-6, 375 Great Britain 47, 51-136, 52-3, see also  individual countries accommodation 105 business hours 105 costs 106 currency 51 emergencies 51 food 106 highlights 105 holidays 105-6 internet resources 105 itineraries 52-3 languages 51 LGBT travellers 105 mobile phones 51

opening hours 105 public holidays 105-6 telephone services 106 travel to/from 106 travel within 106-7 visas 51 Great Synagogue (Budapest) 696 Greece 494-5, 538-71, 490-1 accommodation 568 business hours 569 children, travel with 570 climate 495 consulates 568 costs 568, 569 customs regulations 567-8 embassies 568 emergencies 568 etiquette 568-9 highlights 494-5 holidays 569 internet access 569 itineraries 490-1 language 867 LGBT travellers 569 money 567, 569 opening hours 569 population 495 public holidays 569 religion 495 safe travel 568 telephone services 569 time 489 travel to/from 570 travel within 494, 570-1 visas 489. 570 weather 495 Greek language 867 Grindelwald 358-9 Grossglockner Road 302-3

H

Hadrian’s Arch 544 Hadrian’s Wall 55, 87 Hague, the, see Den Haag Hallstatt 381-2 hamams 445, 583 Hamburg 213, 251-5, 252-3 Hardangerfjord 193 health 852 Heidelberg 240-1 Helsingør 156 Helsinki 144, 172-6, 174-5 Hermitage 780, 794-5, 794-5

I N D E X F - H

Finland 144-5, 172-85, 138-9 accommodation 184, 185 business hours 184 climate 145 costs 185 cycling 145 food 185 highlights 144-5 holidays 184 language 866 LGBT travellers 184 money 184 opening hours 184 population 145 public holidays 184 religion 145 telephone services 185 travel to/from 185 travel within 144, 185 weather 145 Finnish language 866 Firenze, see Florence Flåm 191-2 flamenco 443 Flanders 215 Florence 492, 505-16, 506-7 accommodation 510 drinking 512 food 511-12 money 509 nightlife 512 planning 510 sights 508-10 tourist information 512 travel to/from 512, 516 travel within 516 food 23, see also individual locations football 422 Formentera 433 fortresses Ayasuluk Fortress (Selçuk) 576 Barbican (Warsaw) 714 Brest Fortress 775 Citadela (Budva) 638 Festung Hohensalzburg (Salzburg) 378 Fortaleza de Sagres 474 Kalemegdan Citadel (Belgrade) 662 Kremlin 784, 786-7, 786-7 Minčeta Tower (Dubrovnik) 625, 14 Niš Fortress 668

878

I N D E X H - K

hiking Abisko 170 Algarve 468 Camino de Santiago 414-5 Cappadocia 596 Cinque Terre 513 Lapland 183 Lofoten 194 Portugal 480, 486 Santorini 561 Sigulda 829 Swiss National Park 364 Switzerland 358 Hill of Crosses 783, 844 hitching 862 Hitler, Adolf 219, 236 Hitler’s Bunker 219 holidays, see individual countries Holland, see Netherlands homestays 851 hostels 851, see also  individual locations hot springs Bath 75 Blue Lagoon 200 Budapest 739, 2, 16 Hungary 696 Iceland 146 Kalithea Thermi 566 Lake Bled 732 Rogner-Bad Blumau 376 Hôtel-Dieu des Hospices de Beaune 332 hotels 851, see also  individual locations Hradčany 700 Hungarian language 867 Hungary 696-7, 738-47, 688-9 accommodation 746 business hours 746-7 climate 697 costs 746, 747 food 697, 744, 747 highlights 696-7 holidays 747 language 867 money 746 opening hours 746 population 697 public holidays 747 religion 697 telephone services 747 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

transport 696 travel to/from 747 travel within 696, 747 weather 697 Hurtigruten coastal ferry 146, 191 Húsavík 206-7 Hvar Island 606, 623-5

I

Ibiza 431-3, 432 Iceland 148-9, 197-208, 148-9 accommodation 207 business hours 208 climate 149 costs 207 food 207 highlights 148-9 holidays 208 LGBT travellers 207 money 208 opening hours 208 population 149 public holidays 208 religion 149 telephone services 208 travel to/from 208 travel within 148, 208 weather 149 Ieper, see Ypres Ihlara Valley 596, 597 immigration 859 Inari 184 Inlandsbanan 143 Innsbruck 303, 382-5, 383 insurance 852, 861 Interlaken 357-8 internet access 852 internet resources 21, 38, see also individual countries accommodation 39 health 852 travellers with disabilities 857 Inverness 103-4 Ireland 58-9, 108-36, 52-3 accommodation 134-5 business hours 135 climate 59 costs 135, 136 food 136 highlights 58-9, 134 internet resources 135 itineraries 52-3 LGBT travellers 135

opening hours 135 population 59 public holidays 135 religion 59 telephone services 135-6 travel to/from 136 travel within 58, 136 weather 59 islands 24-5 Isle of Skye 57, 104-5 İstanbul 19, 496, 578-88, 579, 580, 584-5, 19 accommodation 583 drinking 586-7 festivals 582-3 food 586-7 money 582 nightlife 586-7 sights 579-82 tourist information 587 tours 582 travel to/from 587 travel within 587-8 Istria 628 Italian language 867 Italy 492-3, 498-538, 490-1 accommodation 534 children, travel with 536 climate 493 consulates 534 costs 498, 534, 535 discount cards 534 electricity 534 embassies 534 emergencies 534 etiquette 510, 534 food 529, 535 highlights 492-3 holidays 535 itineraries 490-1 language 867 legal matters 534 LGBT travellers 535 money 534, 535 opening hours 535 population 493 religion 493 telephone services 536 time 489, 536 tourist information 536 transport 492 travel to/from 537 travel within 492, 537-8 visas 536 weather 493 visas 489

itineraries 32-7 Balkans 604-5 Central & Eastern Europe 688-9 France, Switzerland & Austria 296-7 Germany, Belgium, Luxembourg & Netherlands 210-11 Great Britain & Ireland 52-3 Italy, Greece & Turkey 490-1 Russia & the Baltic Coast 778-9 Scandinavia 138-9 Spain & Portugal 390-1

J

Jewish sites Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla 400 Dubrovnik Synangogue 627 Great Synagogue (Budapest) 696, 739 Jewish Museum (Prague) 705 Jewish Museum & Centre of Tolerance (Moscow) 785 Jewish Museums (Kraków) 722 Museu d’Història dels Jueus de Girona 427 Vilnius 835 Warsaw 715,717 Jökulsárgljúfur 205, 205 Jökulsárlón 148, 203 Julian Alps 732-5 Jungfraujoch 358, 45 Juodkrantė 847 Jūrmala 782, 827-8

K

Kaliningrad 802-3, 802 Karneval 247 Karst Region 735 Kaunas 841-5, 842 Kauppatori 173 Kazimierz 693 Kerry 123-4 Kilkenny 58, 116-18, 117 Killarney 121-3, 122 Kiruna 170-1 Kitzbühel 302, 385 Klagenfurt 376-7 Klaipėda 845-6, 845 Klimt, Gustav 371

87 9

L

La Lonja 433 La Rambla 416 La Sagrada Família 417, 418-19 Lago di Lugano 301 Lagos 472-4, 473 Lahemaa National Park 781, 813 Lake Balaton 697, 745 Lake Bled 695 Lake District National Park 54, 86-7 Lake Geneva 301 Lake Koman 650 Lake Ohrid 611 Lakeland 144, 182-3 Lakenhalle 271 lakes Königssee 236 Lago di Lugano 301 Lago Maggiore 363 Lake Balaton 697, 745 Lake Bled 695 Lake Geneva 350 Lake Koman 650 Lake Ohrid 611 Lake Lucerne 359 Lake Zürich 361 Loch Lomond 57, 103 Loch Ness 103-4 Landmannalaugar 204-5 landmines 637 languages 20, 864-71 Lapland 145, 183-4 Latvia 782-3, 821-33, 7789, 822 accommodation 833 climate 783 costs 833 food 833 highlights 782-3 holidays 833

language 868 population 783 public holidays 833 religion 783 telephone services 833 transport 782 travel to/from 833 travel within 782, 833 weather 783 Latvian language 868 Lausanne 353-5, 354 Le Clos Lucé 327 Le Rocher 346 legal matters 852-3 Legoland 141, 158 Leiden 284-5 Leipzig 230-1, 231 Lens 322 León 412-13 lesbian travellers 852, see  also individual countries Leuven 262-3 LGBT travellers 853, see  also individual countries Lienz 385-6 Lille 320-1 Lindos 567, 48 Linz 373 Lisbon 19, 394, 460-6, 462-3, 19 Lithuania 782-3, 834-48, 778-9 accommodation 847 costs 847 LGBT travellers 847 highlights 782-3 holidays 847 language 868 population 783 public holidays 847 telephone services 847 travel to/from 847-8 travel within 782, 848 Lithuanian language 868 Ljubljana 694, 727-32, 730 Locarno 363 Loch Lomond 57, 103 Loch Ness 103-4 Lofoten 146, 194-5, 194 Loire Valley 298, 325-8 London 10, 60-73, 62-3, 65, 68, 70, 4, 10 accommodation 65, 68-9 drinking 70-1 entertainment 71-2 food 69-70 markets 71 nightlife 70-1

parks & gardens 69 sights 60-5 tourist information 72 travel to/from 72 travel within 72-3 Londonderry 132-4, 133 Louvain, see Leuven Louvre 308, 310-11, 310-11 Lovćen National Park 643-4 Lübeck 255 Lucerne 359-60 Lugano 363-7 Lund 167 Luxembourg 275-8 accommodation 277 business hours 277 costs 274, 277 holidays 277 itineraries 210-11 LGBT travellers 277 money 277 opening hours 277 public holidays 277 telephone services 277-8 travel to/from 278 travel within 275 Luxembourg City 214-15, 275-7, 276 Lviv 769, 772-3 Lyon 332-5, 334-5 Lysefjord 189

M

Maastricht 292-3 Macedonia 610-11, 654-62, 604-5 accommodation 660 costs 660 food 660 highlights 610-11 language 868 money 660 telephone services 660 transport to/from 660-2 travel within 610, 662 Macedonian language 868 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 102 Madrid 392, 396-402, 398-9 Malá Strana 704 Málaga 455-7, 456 Mallorca 428-9, 429 Malmö 167-8 Manarola 513, 7 Manchester 85-6 maps 853

Mariinsky Theatre 780-1 marijuana 853 markets Barcelona 416 Berlin 221 Cork 119 Finland 144 İstanbul 581 Lille 320 London 71 Paris 309 Rome 528 Zagreb 614 Marseille 299, 338-40 Matterhorn 300, 355-6, 4, 15 Melnik 677-8 memorials Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial 321 Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 220 Holocaust Memorial 219 Memorial 1815 261 Memorial Museum Passchendale 1917 272 Memorium Nuremberg Trials 239 Menin Gate 271 Mons Memorial Museum 273 Ring of Remembrance 322 Menorca 429-31, 430 Meteora 494, 559, 42 Mezquita 393 Michelangelo 511, 522 Minsk 775 Mittelland 356-9 Mljet 628 mobile phones 20, 855, see also individual countries Moldova 762, 763 Monaco 299, 346-7, 347 monasteries Cetinje Monastery (Montenegro) 645 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik) 626-7 Franciscan Monastery (Dubrovnik) 625-6 Franciscan Monastery (Hvar Island) 624 Kyiv 764 Meteora 494, 559, 42 Moldavia 760 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Lisbon) 461

I N D E X K - M

Konya 592-4, 593 Koprivshtitsa 677 Korčula 628 Kosovo 661, 661 Kotor 609, 640-2, 641 Kraków 14, 692, 719-26, 720, 15 Kremlin 784, 786-7. 786-7 Kronborg Slot 141 Kuldīga 830 Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 803 Kutná Hora 708 Kyiv 764-8, 766

8 80

I N D E X M

monasteries continued Novodevichy Convent (Moscow) 785 Painted Monasteries 760 Portugal 477 Rila Monastery 676 Selime Monastery (Ihlara Valley) 596 St Francis Xavier Monastery (Kaunas) 841 St Michael’s Monastery (Kyiv) 764 Studenica 667 Monet, Claude 304 money 20, 21, 853-4 Mons 272-3 Mont Blanc 336 Mont St-Michel 298, 323 Montenegro 608, 609, 638-47 accommodation 645-6 business hours 646 costs 646 food 646 holidays 646 opening hours 646 public holidays 646 safe travel 646 telephone services 646 tourist information 646 travel to/from 647 travel within 608, 647 visas 647 Monterosso 513 Moravia 710-12 Morocco, travel to 455 Moscow 784-93, 788-9, 770 accommodation 790 drinking 791 entertainment 791-2 food 790-1 medical services 792 nightlife 791 shopping 792 sights 784-5 tours 785, 790 travel to/from 792 travel within 792-3 mosques Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 497, 574-5, 579, 574-5 Et’hem Bey Mosque (Tirana) 649

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Mezquita (Córdoba) 443 Mosque of Süleyman (Rhodes) 565 Süleymaniye Mosque (İstanbul) 581 Mostar 608, 634-7, 636 mountains Accursed Mountains 650 Grossglockner 386 Harder Kulm 357 Julian Alps 732-5 Jungfraujoch 358 Matterhorn 300, 355-6, 4, 15 Mont Blanc 336 Mt Lovćen 643 Mt Triglav 694, 733 Mozart 378-9 Mt Lovćen 643 Mt Triglav 694, 733 Mucha, Alfons 705 Munich 213, 231-5, 232-3 museums & galleries Acropolis Museum 544 Albertina (Vienna) 367 Alte Pinakothek (Munich) 233 Anne Frank Huis (Amsterdam) 278 Antalya Museum 571 ARoS Aarhus Kunstmuseum 158 Ashmolean Museum (Oxford) 78 Astrup Fearnley Museet (Oslo) 185 Atomium (Brussels) 260 Bach-Museum Leipzig 230 Basilica di Santa Croce (Florence) 509-10 Benaki Museum (Athens) 550 BMW Museum (Munich) 234 British Museum 60 Byzantine & Christian British Museum (London) 60 Casa Museu Dalí (Girona) 427 Centre Pompidou (Paris) 308 Centre Pompidou Málaga 455 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía 396 Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla 440

Centro Flamenco Fosforito (Córdoba) 444-5 Chester Beatty Library 108-9 Delphi Museum 557 Deutsches Historiches Museum (Berlin) 218-19 Ephesus Museum 576-7 Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida 396 Escher in Het Paleis Museum (Den Haag) 286 Fondation Beyeler (Basel) 360 Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence) 508 Galleria dell’Accademia (Florence) 510 Gallerie dell’Accademia (Venice) 498 Galleria Doria Pamphilj (Rome) 525 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin) 219-20 Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Dresden) 228 Goldenes Dachl Museum (Innsbruck) 382 Göreme Open-Air Museum 594-6 Groeningemuseum (Bruges) 268 Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes (Seville) 439 Hamburger Kunsthalle 252-4 Haus der Musik (Vienna) 370 Hermitage 780, 794-5, 794-5 Historial de la Grande Guerre (The Somme) 321 Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (Dresden) 228 Historisches Museum Bern 357 Hôtel des Invalides (Paris) 304 Hungarian National Gallery 738 Icelandic Phallological Museum 197 İstanbul Archaeology Museums 581 İstanbul Modern 581 Jorvik Viking Centre (York) 83

K20 Grabbeplatz (Düsseldorf) 249 K21 Ständehaus (Düsseldorf) 249-50 Kaiserliche Schatzkammer (Vienna) 367 Kiasma (Helsinki) 173 Klimt Villa (Vienna) 371 Kunsthaus (Zurich) 361 Kunsthaus Graz 374 Kunsthistorisches Museum (Vienna) 371 La Cité du Vin (Bordeaux) 337 La Piscine Musée d’Art et d’Industrie (Lille) 320 Leopold Museum (Vienna) 370 Louisiana (Copenhagen) 150 Louvre-Lens 322 MACBA (Barcelona) 416 Maison de la Magie (Blois) 326 Malmö Museer 167 Maritiem Museum Rotterdam 288 Matterhorn Museum 356 Mauritshuis (Den Haag) 286 Memorial Museum Passchendale 1917 272 Metropol Parasol (Seville) 440 Mevlâna Museum (Konya) 592 MIM (Brussels) 260 Mons Memorial Museum 273 Mozarts Geburtshaus (Salzburg) 378 Mozart-Wohnhaus (Salzburg) 379 MUMOK (Vienna) 370-1 Munchmuseet 186-7 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Baron Gérard (Bayeux) 322 Musée d’Art Moderne, d’Art Contemporain et d’Art Brut - LaM (Lille) 320 Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (Nice) 343 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Dijon) 330 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Lyon) 333

881 Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (Rome) 525 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 527 Museo Picasso Málaga 455 Museo ThyssenBornemisza (Madrid) 396 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Lisbon) 461 Museu do Fado 460 Museu d’Història dels Jueus de Girona 427 Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC) (Barcelona) 417, 422 Museu Picasso (Barcelona) 417 Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (Rotterdam) 288 Museum der Bildenden Künste (Leipzig) 230 Museum der Moderne (Salzberg) 379 Museum het Rembrandthuis (Amsterdam) 278 Museum Jean Tinguely (Basel) 360 Museum Ludwig (Cologne) 247 Museum of Anatolian Civilisations (Ankara) 588 Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb) 614 Museum of Contemporary Art (Zagreb) 614 Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts (İstanbul) 579-80 Museum Plantin-Moretus (Antwerp) 264-5 Museum Sammlung Rosengart (Lucerne) 359 Museum St-Janshospitaal (Bruges) 268 MuseumsQuartier (Vienna) 370 Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo) 186 National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 545

National Gallery (Dublin) 109 National Gallery (London) 60-1 National Museum of Contemporary Art (Athens) 550 National Museum of Montenegro 644 National Museum of Scotland (Edinburgh) 97 National Museum (Reykjavík) 197 National Portrait Gallery (London) 61 Natural History Museum (London) 64 Neue Galerie Graz 374 Neue Pinakothek (Munich) 233-4 Neues Museum (Berlin) 219 Palais des Beaux Arts (Lille) 320 Palais du Tau 328 Palazzo Vecchio (Florence) 508, 509 Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Venice) 498 Pergamonmuseum (Berlin) 219 Prague Jewish Museum 705 Reykjavík 871±2: The Settlement Exhibition 199 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) 278 Römisch-Germanisches Museum (Cologne) 247 Rubenshuis (Antwerp) 265 Russian Museum (St Petersburg) 793 Salzburg Museum 378 Skansen (Stockholm) 161 State Hermitage Museum (St Petersburg) 793 Statens Museum for Kunst (Copenhagen) 150 Svrzo House (Sarajevo) 630-1 Tate Modern (London) 64 Teatre-Museu Dalí (Girona) 427 Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum (Innsbruck) 382

Titanic Belfast 127 Topkapı Palace (İstanbul) 580 Tower of London 61 Tunnel Museum (Sarajevo) 631 Van Gogh Museum (Amsterdam) 278 Vatican Museums 522-3, 523 Vermeer Centrum Delft 287 Victoria & Albert Museum (London) 64 Vikingskipshuset (Oslo) 185-6 Zeitgeschichtliches Forum (Leipzig) 230 Zentrum Paul Klee (Bern) 357 music 26, 465 Greece 55 Portugal 465 music festivals 141, 145 Brussels Jazz Marathon 28 Copehagen Jazz Festival 151 EXIT Festival 30, 607, 667 Glastonbury Festival 29, 77 Iceland Airwaves 31, 199 Þjóðhátíð 203 Roskilde Festival 29-30, 157 Ruisrock 177 Savonlinna Opera Festival 182 Sziget Music Festival 30 mustard 330 Mývatn 206

N

national parks & reserves, see also parks & gardens Abisko National Park 170 Connemara National Park 126 Curonian Spit National Park 846-7 Durmitor National Park 609, 645 Gauja National Park 782, 828 Hohe Tauern National Park 386 Ķemeri National Park 827 Killarney National Park 122

I N D E X M - N

Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (Marseille) 338-9 Musée des Confluences (Lyon) 333 Musée d’Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg 275 Musée d’Orsay (Paris) 305 Musée du Cinquantenaire (Brussels) 260 Musée du Louvre (Paris) 308, 310-11, 310-11 Musée du Quai Branly (Paris) 304 Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge (Geneva) 350 Musée Magritte (Brussels) 257 Musée Marmottan Monet (Paris) 304 Musée Masséna (Nice) 343 Musée Matisse (Nice) 343 Musée National Picasso (Paris) 308 Musée Océanographique de Monaco 346 Musée Olympique (Lausanne) 353 Musée Rodin (Paris) 304 Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts (Brussels) 257 Museo Carmen Thyssen (Málaga) 455 Museo de Bellas Artes (Bilbao) 407 Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville) 439 Museo das Peregrinacións e de Santiago 415 Museo de Art Nouveau y Art Decó (Salamanca) 411 Museo de Cádiz 452 Museo de la Evolución Humana (Burgos) 409 Museo del Bargello (Florence) 509 Museo del Prado (Madrid) 396 Museo di San Marco 510 Museo e Galleria Borghese (Rome) 525 Museo Guggenheim (Bilbao) 407

8 82

I N D E X N - P

national parks & reserves continued Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 803 Lahemaa National Park 781, 813 Lake District National Park 86-7 Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park 103 Lovćen National Park 643 Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park 183 Parc National des Calanques 339 Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês 395, 486-7, 486 Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa 413 Parque Natural da Ria Formosa 472 Pelister National Park 659 Plitvice Lakes National Park 607, 618, 770-1 Snowdonia National Park 88-9 Swiss National Park 301, 364 Triglav National Park 733 Urho Kekkonen National Park 183 Vatnajökull National Park (Jökulsárgljúfur) 1489, 205, 205, 25 Žemaitija National Park 846 Nazaré 477-8 Nesebâr 682 Netherlands 216-17, 27894, 210-11 accommodation 293 business hours 294 costs 293 climate 217 cycling 216 food 293 highlights 216-17 holidays 294 itineraries 210-11 language 865 legal matters 293 LGBT travellers 293 money 293-4

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

opening hours 294 population 217 public holidays 294 religion 217 travel to/from 294 travel within 216, 294 weather 217 Nice 298, 341-4, 342 Nida 847 nightlife 26, see also individual locations Niš 668-9 Normandy 322-3 Norrland 170-1 Northern Ireland 127-34 northern lights, see aurora borealis Norway 146-7. 185-97, 138-9 accommodation 196 business hours 196 climate 147 costs 196 food 196 highlights 146-7 holidays 196 language 868 LGBT travellers 196 money 196 opening hours 196 population 147 public holidays 196 religion 147 telephone services 196 travel to/from 196-7 travel within 146, 196-7 weather 147 Norwegian language 868 Notting Hill Carnival 30 Nové Město 704-5 Novi Pazar 667 Novi Sad 666-7 Nuremberg 239-40

O

Óbidos 476-7 Odense 157-8 Odesa 769 Ohrid 656-8, 657 Oia 561, 34-5 Oktoberfest 31, 213, 235 Olympos 576 opening hours, see  individual countries Oslo 147, 185-8, 186-7 Östersund 170 Oxford 54, 77-80, 79 oysters 325

P

paella 438 palaces, see castles & palaces Palatino 516 Palma de Mallorca 428-9 Pamplona 408 Panathenaic Stadium 545 Pantheon (Rome) 523 Panthéon (Paris) 305 Paris 10, 304-17, 306-7, 312-13, 316, 4, 11 accommodation 309 discount cards 305 drinking 315 entertainment 316-17 food 309-15 nightlife 315 sights 304-9 tourist information 317 travel to/from 317 travel within 317 parks & gardens Giardini Pubblici (Locarno) 363 Gorky Park (Moscow) 785 Hyde Park (London) 69 Jardin Anglais (Geneva) 350 Jardin des Tuileries (Paris) 308 Jardin du Luxembourg 304 Kadriorg Park (Tallinn) 810 Kensington Gardens (London) 69 Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 715 Memento Park (Budapest) 738-9 Musée Rodin (Paris) 304 Park Güell (Barcelona) 422 Villa Borghese (Rome) 525-7 Vondelpark (Amsterdam) 279, 41 Windsor Great Park 73 Pärnu 781, 817-20, 818 Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês 395, 486-7, 486 Peja 661 Pelister National Park 659-60 Perast 609, 642-3 Peterhof 801 phonecards 855

Piazza di Spagna 523 Piazza Navona 523 Piazza San Marco 498 Picasso, Pablo 308, 417, 455 Piccadilly Circus 61 pintxos 406 Piran 694, 735-6 planning 22-3, 38 budgeting 21 calendar of events 27-31 Europe basics 20-1 internet resources 21 itineraries 32 transport 43-6 travel seasons 20 Plateia Syntagmatos 550 Plitvice Lakes National Park 607, 618, 770-1 Plovdiv 612-13, 674-7, 674 Poland 692-3, 714-27, 698-9 accommodation 726 business hours 726 climate 693 costs 726 food 693, 726 highlights 692-3 holidays 726 language 869 money 726 opening hours 726 population 693 public holidays 726 religion 693 telephone services 726-7 travel to/from 727 travel within 692, 727 weather 693 Polish language 869 Pompeii 493, 531, 532-3, 25, 532-3 Pont du Gard 341 Ponte Vecchio 509 porcelain 287 Porto 394-5, 481-5, 482-3, 554 Portugal 364-5, 460-88, 390-1 accommodation 487 business hours 487 climate 395 costs 487 currency 389 emergencies 389 food 487 highlights 394-5 holidays 487-8 language 869

883

Q

Quimper 323 Quinta da Regaleira 466

R

racism 854 Red Light District 279 Red Square 780, 784 Reichsparteitagsgelände 240 Reichstag 218 Reims 328-9 Rembrandt 279-8 Reykjahlíð 206 Reykjavík 149, 197-201, 198-9

Rhine River 243-6, 244-5, 290-1 Rhodes 495, 562-7, 563, 48 Rhodes Town 564-7, 564-5 Rīga 782, 821-7, 824 Rila Monastery 676 Rila Mountains 676 Ring of Kerry 123-4 Riomaggiore 513, 554-5 road rules 862 Rock of Cashel 59, 119 Roman Forum 517, 518-9, 17, 518-19 Roman remains Athens 544 Bath 75 Cologne 247 Ephesus 578, 555 Évora 475-6 Hadrian’s Wall 87 Macedonia 659 Plovdiv 675 Pompeii 493, 531, 532-3, 25, 532-3 Pont du Gard 341 Pula 628 Rome 516-17, 518-19, 17, 518-19 Selçuk 577 Split 619, 621 Trier 246 Varna 681 York 84 Romania 688-9, 749-64, 750 accommodation 761 business hours 761 climate 699 costs 761 food 761 highlights 698-9 holidays 761-2 language 869 money 761 opening hours 761 population 699 religion 699 telephone services 762 transport 698 travel to/from 763-4 travel within 688, 764 weather 699 Romanian language 869 Romantic Rhine 212, 243-5, 290-1 Romantic Road, the 236-9

Rome 17, 492, 516-31, 517, 520-1, 524, 526-7, 17 accommodation 528-9 discount cards 525 drinking 529-40 food 529 nightlife 529-40 safe travel 530 sights 516-28 tourist information 530 travel to/from 530-1 travel within 531 Ronda 457-8 Roskilde 156-7 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 237 Rotterdam 217, 288-92, 289 Rovaniemi 183-4 Rovinj 617-19 Royal Mile (Edinburgh) 90-1, 90-1 ruins 24, see also Roman remains, individual locations Running of the Bulls 30, 408 Russia 780-1, 784-806, 778-9 accommodation 803 business hours 803 climate 781 costs 803, 804 food 804 highlights 780-1 holidays 804 itineraries 778-9 language 869-70 LGBT travellers 804 money 804 opening hours 803 population 781 public holidays 804 religion 781 safe travel 804 telephone services 804 transport 780 travel to/from 805 travel within 780, 805-6 visas 805 weather 781 Russian language 869-70

S

safe travel 23, 854-5 Athens 553 Bosnia & Hercegovina 637 Greece 568

Montenegro 646 Russia 804 Serbia 669 Turkey 598-9 Sagres 474-5 Salamanca 410-12, 411 Salisbury 74-5 Salzburg 302, 377-80, 378 Salzkammergut 303, 381-2 Sámi culture 145, 184 San Sebastián 404-6, 405 sand dunes 338 Santa Claus 182 Santiago de Compostela 414-16, 414 Santorini 13, 495, 558-62, 560, 13, 34-5 Sarajevo 608, 630-4, 632 saunas 144-5, 181 Savonlinna 182-3 scams 855 Scandinavia 47, 137-208, 138-9, see also  individual countries itineraries 138-9 Schengen Agreement 856 Schloss Neuschwanstein 212 Schlossberg 374 Scotland 56-7, 89-107, 52-3, see also Great Britain climate 57 highlights 56-7 population 57 transport 56 weather 57 Selçuk 576-8, 577 Semana Santa 441 Serbia 606-7, 662-70, 604-5 accommodation 669 costs 669, 670 food 670 highlights 606-7 language 864-5 LGBT travellers 669 money 670 population 607 safe travel 669 telephone services 670 travel to/from 670 travel within 606, 670 visas 670 Serbian language 864-5 Seville 393, 439-43, 440 Shakespeare, William 80-1 Shkodra 650 Sighişoara 758-61, 759

I N D E X P - S

LGBT travellers 487 money 487 opening hours 487 population 395 public holidays 487-8 religion 395 telephone services 488 time 389 travel to/from 488 travel within 394, 488 weather 395 Portuguese language 869 Porvoo 177 postal services 854, see also individual countries Postojna Cave 695, 736 Potsdam 228 Potsdamer Platz 219 Prague 15, 700-8, 701, 702-3, 2, 15, 771 accommodation 705 drinking 706-7 entertainment 707 food 705-6 nightlife 706-7 sights 700-5 tourist information 707 travel to/from 707-8 travel within 707, 713 Prague Castle 690-1, 700, 701 Preikestolen 147 Pristina 661 Prizren 661 Provence 338-41 public holidays 761-2, see also individual countries Pula 628 Pulpit Rock 147

884

I N D E X S -T

Sigulda 828-30, 829 SIM cards 855 Sintra 394, 466-7 Sistine Chapel 522 Skaftafell 205, 204, 25 Skagen 141, 159-60 Skellig Michael 123 skiing Austria 385, 386 Sweden 143 Skógar 204 Skopje 611, 654-6, 654 Skye 57, 104-5 Slovak language 870 Slovakia 714 Slovene language 870 Slovenia 694-5, 727-38, 728 accommodation 695, 736-7 business hours 737 climate 695 costs 737 food 695, 737 highlights 694-5 holidays 737 language 870 money 737 opening hours 737 population 695 public holidays 737 religion 695 telephone services 737 travel to/from 737-8 travel within 694, 738 weather 695 Smiltynė 847 smoking 348, 853 Snowdonia 56, 88-9 soccer 422 Sofia 670-4, 672-3 Sognefjorden 191-2, 192 Sound of Music, The 377, 380 Sozopol 683-4, 683, 23 Spain 392-3, 396-460, 390-1 accommodation 458 area codes 389 beaches 393 budgeting 459 business hours 459 climate 393 currency 389

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

discount cards 458 emergencies 389 food 389, 401, 402, 406, 438 highlights 392-3 holidays 459 itineraries 390-1 language 870 LGBT travellers 458-9 money 459 opening hours 459 population 393 public holidays 459 religion 393 telephone services 459 time 389 travel to/from 459-60 travel within 392, 460 weather 393 Spanish language 870 Spanish Steps 523 Split 606, 619-23, 620 St Goar 245 St Goarshausen 245 St Moritz 352 St Petersburg 13, 793-801, 796, 13 accommodation 799-800 activities 798-9 drinking 800 entertainment 800 food 800 nightlife 800 sights 793-5, 798 tourist information 801 tours 799 travel to/from 801 travel within 801 St Peter’s Square 522 Staré Město 700-4 Stari Most 634 Stavanger 188-9 Steiermark 376 St-Malo 324-5 Stockholm 142, 161-6, 162-3, 95 Stonehenge 54, 74 Stratford-upon-Avon 55, 80-1 St-Tropez 345-6 Styria 376 Subotica 667-8 surfing 474 Sveti Ðorđe 643 Svetlogorsk 803

Svolvær 194 Sweden 142-3, 161-72, 138-9 accommodation 171, 172 business hours 171-2 climate 143 costs 172 food 172 highlights 142-3 holidays 172 language 870-1 LGBT travellers 171 money 171 opening hours 171-2 population 143 public holidays 172 religion 143 telephone services 172 travel to/from 172 travel within 142, 172 weather 143 Swedish language 870-1 Swiss National Park 301 Switzerland 300-1, 350-66, 296-7 accommodation 364, 365 climate 301 costs 365 electricity 365 food 365 highlights 300-1 holidays 365 internet resources 365 money 365 opening hours 365 population 301 religion 301 telephone services 365 travel to/from 366 travel within 300, 366 visas 365 weather 301 synagogues Choral Synagogue (Vilnius) 835 Dubrovnik 625 Great Synagogue (Budapest) 739 Prague 705

T

Tallinn 18, 781, 806-14, 808-9, 18 Tampere 179-81, 180 Tarifa 454-5 Tartu 781, 814-17

taxes 854 taxis 863 telephone services 20, 629, 855-6, see also  individual countries Temple of Artemis 577 Temple of Olympian Zeus 544 Temple of Poseidon 545 Temple to Athena 545 Ţepeş, Vlad 757, 760 terrorism 855 Thames, River 66-7, 66-7 theft 855 thermal springs, see hot spring Þórsmörk 205 Ticino 363-4 time zones 20, 856, see also individual chapters tipping 23 Tirana 610, 647-51, 648 toilets 856 Toledo 402-4, 403 Tomar 395 Torre de Belém 461 tourist information 856, see also individual locations Trafalgar Square 61 train travel 44, 863, see also individual countries Glacier Express 352 Gornergratbahn 356 Jungfraujoch 358 Trakai 840 Transylvania 699, 755-61, 754-5 travellers cheques 854 travel passes air 43 bus 44-6 rail 44 travel to/from Europe 859-60 travel within Europe 860-3 Trevi Fountain 523 Trier 246 Trinity College (Dublin) 92-3, 108, 112, 16, 92-3 Tromsø 147, 195-6 Trondheim 193-4 Tsarskoe Selo 801-2 tulips 284

885

U

Ukraine 764-76, 688-9 accommodation 773 business hours 774 costs 773, 774 food 765, 774 holidays 774 internet access 775 language 871 money 773-4 opening hours 774 public holidays 774 telephone services 774-5 travel to/from 775-6 travel within 776 Ukrainian language 871 Unesco World Heritage Sites Alhambra 392, 446-7. 448-9, 446-7

Banks of the Seine 308 Belfort 266 Berat 651-2 Bern 356-7 Bordeaux 337-8 Cinque Terre 493, 513, 7, 554-5 Curonian Spit National Park 846-7 Danube Valley 373 Diocletian’s Palace 619, 621 Dubrovnik 606, 625-9 Geirangerfjorden 146, 192-3 Giant’s Causeway 59, 131-2 Goreme Open-Air Museum 594-6 Hallstatt 381-2 Innere Stadt (Vienna) 367 Kaliningrad Cathedral 802 Kraków Old Town 721-2 Kurshskaya Kosa National park 803 Kutná Hora 708 La Lonja 433 Luxembourg Old Town 275 Lviv 769, 772-3 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 461 Museum PlantinMoretus 264 Nesebâr 682 Palais du Tau 328 Plitvice Lakes National Park 607, 618, 770-1 Pompeii 493, 531, 532-3, 25, 532-3 Porto 394-5, 481-5, 482-3, 554 Potsdam 228 Rhodes Old Town 564-5 Salzburg Old Town 377 Sighişoara Citadel 759 Sintra-Vila 466 Skellig Michael 123 Speicherstadt 254 Stari Most 634 Studenica 667 Torre de Belém 461 Vienna 367

Visby 169 Würzburg Residenz 238-9 Uppsala 166-7

V

vaccinations 852 Valais 355-6 Valencia 433-9, 434-5, 436 Van Gogh, Vincent 278 Varna 680-2, 681 Vasamuseet 143 Vatnajökull National Park (Jökulsárgljúfur) 148-9, 205, 205, 25 Veliko Târnovo 612, 678-80, 679 Venice 12, 492, 498-505, 499, 500-1, 502-3, 12 accommodation 502-4 costs 505 drinking 504-5 entertainment 504-5 festivals 502 food 504 sights 498-500 tourist information 505 tours 500-1 travel to/from 505 travel within 504, 505 Ventspils 832-3 Vernazza 513 Versailles 318-19, 320, 318-19 Vestmannaeyjar 202-4 Vienna 18, 302, 367-74, 368-9, 18, 290 accommodation 371-2 discount cards 367 drinking 372-3 festivals 371 food 372 nightlife 372-3 sights 367-71 tourist information 373 travel to/from 373-4 travel within 374 Vieux Nice 341 Vieux Port 338 Viking sites Jorvik Viking Centre (York) 83 Reykjavík 871±2 199

Viking Ship Museum (Roskilde) 157 Vikingskipshuset (Oslo) 185 Vilnius 783, 834-40, 836 visas 20, 856, 857, see also indvidual countries Schengen visas 856 Visby 142, 169 vodka 693 volunteering 857 Vorarlberg 386

W

Wales 56-7, 87-9, 52-3, see also Great Britain highlights 56-7 language 57 population 57 transport 56 walks, see hiking Warsaw 692, 693, 71419, 716 water 852 waterfalls Gullfoss 202 Hohe Tauern National Park 386 Rheinfall 361 Skógafoss 204 Triberger Wasserfälle 242 Ventas Rumba 830 weather 20, 27-31 websites, see internet resources Western Fjords 188-93 Westfjords 149 whirling dervishes 587 whisky 57 Wieliczka Salt Mine 693 Windsor 73-4 wine 337, 484, see also Champagne Bulgaria 613, 678 festivals 31 Lavaux 353 women travellers 857-8 work 857, 858 Würzburg 238-9 WWI sites D-Day beaches 323 In Flanders Fields 271 Mons Memorial Museum 273 The Somme 321-2 Ypres 271, 272

I N D E X T -W

Turkey 496-7, 571-602, 490-1 accommodation 598 business hours 600 children, travel with 600 climate 497 consulates 599 costs 598, 599 electricity 599 embassies 599 emergencies 599-602 etiquette 599 food 589, 599 highlights 496-7 holidays 600 itineraries 490-1 language 871 LGBT travellers 599 money 598, 599-600 opening hours 600 population 497 public holidays 600 religion 497 safe travel 598-9 telephone services 600 time 489 travel to/from 601 travel within 496, 601-2 visas 600-1 weather 497 women travellers 601 visas 489 Turkish language 871 Turku 176-9, 178 Tyne Cot 272 Tyrol 382-6

8 86 WWII sites 219 Anne Frank Huis 278 Dachau 234 Fromelles (Pheasant Wood) Cemetery & Museum 322

I N D E X W -Z Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

Frauenkirche 228 Memorium Nuremberg Trials 239 Reichsparteitagsgelände 240 US Military Cemetery 275

Y

York 54-5, 82-5, 83 Ypres 271-2

Z

Zagreb 607, 614-17, 616

Žemaitija National Park 846 Zermatt 15, 355-6 Zugspitze 236 Zürich 300, 361-2 Zytglogge 356

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Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight

Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity

Sleeping Sleeping Camping

Eating Eating

Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe

Entertainment Entertainment

Shopping Shopping

Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information

Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village

Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/Railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport

Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail

Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef

Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Andy Symington Scandinavia, Germany & Benelux, Spain & Portugal Andy hails from Australia but has been living in Spain for 15 years, where, to shatter a couple of stereotypes of the country, he can frequently be found ­huddled in sub-zero temperatures watching the tragically poor local football team. He has authored and co-authored many LP guidebooks and other ­publications on Spain and elsewhere; in his spare time he walks in the mountains, embarks on epic tapas trails, and co-bosses a rock bar.

Nicola Williams France, Switzerland & Austria British writer and editorial consultant Nicola Williams has lived in France and written about it for more than a decade. From her hillside house on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, it’s an easy hop to Paris where she has spent endless years revelling in its extraordinary art, urban architecture, boutique shopping and cuisine. Nicola has worked on numerous titles for Lonely Planet, including France and Discover France. Find Nicola on Twitter at @ Tripalong.

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Mark Baker Central & Eastern Europe Mark Baker is an independent travel writer based in Prague. He’s lived in Central Europe for more than 20 years, working as a writer and editor for the Economist, Bloomberg and Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, and is an enthusiastic traveller throughout the region. He’s author of several Lonely Planet guides, including Prague & the Czech Republic, Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania, Romania & Bulgaria, Poland and Slovenia. Tweet him @markbaker prague.

Tom Masters Balkans Tom has been travelling in Eastern Europe since the early ’90s when, as a young teenager, he travelled by train across the newly liberated ‘Eastern Bloc’ with his mother, an experience not unlike a Graham Greene novel. Having studied ­Russian and lived in St Petersburg, and currently residing in the former East Berlin, Tom knows this part of the world like few others, though it constantly manages to surprise him. You can find more of his work at www.tommasters.net.

Korina Miller Italy, Greece & Turkey Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach.

Simon Richmond Great Britain & Ireland, Russia & the Baltic Coast, and Plan and Survival Guide chapters UK-born writer and photographer Simon’s first taste of continental Europe was on a family holiday to Mallorca in the 1970s. Many subsequent Euro trips have followed including work assignments to, among other places, the Baltic States, Belgium and Portugal. Simon is co-author of Lonely Planet’s Russia and Trans-Siberian Railway guides. Read more about Simon’s travels at www.simonrichmond.com and on Twitter and Instagram @simonrichmond. OVER MORE PAG E WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the 9th edition – October 2016 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 78657 113 7 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’