TRAVEL TALK
Brazil
ITINERARY 9 days - twin location. 5 days - Rio de Janiero, Belmond Copacabana Palace Hotel.
3 days - Iguassu Falls Belmond Das Caratatas Hotel.
FLIGHT DETAILS London to Sao Paulo 11 hours 30 mins Rio De Janeiro to London 11 hours 15 mins British Airways: With the option of flying First Class or Club World.
TRANSFERS Sao Paulo to Iguassu Falls 1 hour 50 mins Iguacu Falls to Rio De Janeiro 1 hour 50 mins ‘’The view as I flew out of Iguassu Falls Airport was so stunning that I immediately felt bereft of leaving’’
TRAVEL TALK
Brazil
Alan McAleese
Rio De Janeiro is synonymous the world over with fun, lust for life, for Carnival! And here I was with a party from the Bellini Club to sample the delights Belmond had in store for travellers to their jewel in Brazil. There is no better way to ‘do’ this iconic city than basing yourself at the Copacabana Palace. This world famous hotel is the heart of the area and has set the tone for glamorous living edged with that furious latin passion found in the Southern Americas. Yet for all of the history and high drama, this is one of the most relaxed establishments I’ve been in.
Copacabana Beach Simply being led through the corridors to my room moved the heart, Every few feet you would feel the salty breeze blowing in from the beach, glance out the open window and be stunned with the view. We had pre-dinner drinks in the famous penthouse, where being left to explore, we discovered bathtubs filled with ice and bottles of Veuve Clicquot . Up here with views stretching over the Copacabana Beach listening to tales from parties indescribable in a story like this, the buzz and beat of Rio was hard felt. Now that the General Manager felt we were into the sway of Rio, he reckoned us ready for the famous Cipriani restaurant. Of course being the Copacabana even something as simple as a stroll to dinner has to be fabulous and of course it was - as we passed the pool, music started to play, lights came up and a team of the most glamourous synchronised swimmers danced for us. The routine at an end we proceeded on to dinner which promised to be exquisite as we
were dining at the exclusive Chef’s Table. Located in the heart of the kitchen this is a serious fine dining adventure as Chef Orini leads you through dishes created for the best produce to be found at market that morning. Chef Orini’s encyclopaedic knowledge of his art meant this was as much a natural history lesson as a meal. Classics based on traditional north Italian recipes, fused with the local flavours. A lobster cannelloni on a smoked scamorza cheese sauce was perfect. This giving way to a big entrance by South American cuisine when a truly magnificent beef tenderloin was slammed onto the table before being served with a really moreish Peruvian parsnip potato gratin. Despite this being easily one of the finest evenings in recent memory a 5 am breakfast call had me making my excuses early. 5 am Breakfast call? After several years of negotiations between the city and Belmond,
certain visitors to the Copacabana Palace can arrange to have a sunrise breakfast on top of Corcovado Mountain, a hill that is better known for it’s world famous resident, the 100ft tall Statue of Christ the Redeemer. A wonder of the world, this entire area is normally swarmed with tourists from open to close, but the magicians at Belmond have secured totally private access for select groups staying with them. This world wonder is normally enough to render one speechless even while being bumped and pushed by the hundreds also seeking their view. This morning I was, in a very small group being served a fine continental breakfast and being left to wander freely. This was real once in a lifetime stuff, where exclusivity really meant something as I was left to enjoy this all in my own space and my own time. Unfortunately the gates must open at some point so before the maddening crowds arrived we were whisked away as a tour of the city was to follow.
Maracaña Stadium Now some hate it, others love it but for me football is a real passion and I was blown away when I heard we were headed to the “Temple of Football” here in Rio - The Maracanã Stadium. After the main part of the building tour, we were split up and taken to the footballers changing rooms. Opening the door we found our ‘kit’ waiting for us - A personalised football top with the legendary number 10 proudly emblazoned on the back. Suitably adorned we were then led out through the players tunnel onto the pitch. Jersey on, running out, with the roar of a full house crowd being pumped through the loudspeakers I felt like I was 9 years old living a daydream. We took lunch at the locally well known Aprazivel restaurant perched high above the city in a ‘Carioca’ district, well known for being a haven for the old ways of Rio life.
Lunch was relaxed, rustic and totally wholesome, here was the side of the city you knew must exist but never hear about. Havens of nourishment and peace where the people go to recharge after all of that famous partying. We headed back to the Palace to relax before dressing for dinner. Earning a Michelin star within a year of opening, MEE restaurant is a key statement in the heart of the Copacabana Palace. Fronted by world famous chef Ken Hom, the name is a Korean word for beauty and this is the core of the concept used by Chef Hom to set his signature over the space in all ways. Before you even see the menu, the decor, gentle music and even that faint gingery aroma in the air have been carefully crafted to set a scene of complete calm. This was a ‘once in a lifetime’ dining experience. I have gorged on some of the world’s best sushi in my
travels across the far east, but here next to the southern Atlantic I was guided through the most authentic and incredible tastes. Combinations I would never had considered yet alone tried passed my lips with at first a slight hesitation then with increasing frequency. Thinking of the Salmon carpaccio with flying fish roe counterbalanced with a sharp citrus sauce I couldn’t identify still makes my mouth water. This was followed with a sashimi of pale freshwater eel, bright salmon belly and then on and on new taste piled upon new texture endlessly. Now our hosts judged us truly ready to party we headed to the Rio Scenarium. This incomparable venue is as much a draw for South America’s best known musicians as it is for the cities most glamourous revellers. At one point, seemingly for our benefit there was a magnificent staged dance piece or “casa de show” that really exemplified the vibrancy, culture and life of Rio.
Sugar Loaf After a leisurely breakfast we were whisked off to Sugar Loaf mountain for some high adventure. The cable car run was almost overwhelming, the near silence and clear morning air adding to the immense view across this huge sprawling city. Arriving at the halfway point , we were led to refreshments, and then out to the helipad. Not for us the final three minute ride by cable car to the peak of Sugar Loaf, no, a helicopter ride to the top and then across the magnificent bay was in store. Now as you may know, I’m an aviation nut and the thought of this flight had me tingling. First up and around the peaks forming this end of the bay and then all around the various coves and beaches that make up this seafront side of the city. I can’t really describe how awesome this was, I was able to take some great photos, but they still do it no justice.
Landing I was giddy like a boy, totally exhilarated by the flight and sights. Luckily we were headed for a very grounding lunch. Fogo de Chao is a chain of steak houses that began life in a ranch deep in the Brazilian countryside. If you’re not familiar with the churrasco style, then you’re in for a treat. Joint after joint of the finest cuts, mostly unknown outside of this part of the Americas are brought to your table after a very slow cook over a chargrill. The thinly sliced Picanha was the most moist steak I had ever tried, so full of flavour from the long cook. A first for me and something I found instantly addictive was the chimichurri sauce used as a peppery accompaniment to the strong beef. We ended our trip to Rio with a private party in the grand ballroom of the Copacabana Palace. This was wild, extravagant and reminded me of the what I’d found here in Rio,
Live is to be lived with as much a sense of fun and passion as possible.
Now it was time to fly south and experience another side to Brazil, colonial decadence deep in the jungle. Hotel das Cataratas, Iguassu Falls. Situated in what is considered one of South America’s most beautiful landscapes, the Iguassu falls National Park is an area of pristine rainforest bisected by the enormous Iguassu River as it ends it’s near 900 mile ocean bound journey.
Close to where this torrent joins the mighty Paraná, the river bedrock is slashed by a near vertical canyon over 250 ft deep. This sudden drop, running in a long jagged line causes the river to break into nearly 300 magnificent waterfalls, some over 250ft high. These are considered the most spectacular Waterfalls in the world.
Belmond, the iconic collector of worldwide luxury experiences have an exquisite property perched just above the falls. The Hotel das Cataratas. Being a Belmond property the standards go far beyond ‘high’ with interiors to make national galleries jealous, staff who have the ‘Belmond Attitude’ and the food that is considered remarkable, by even Belmonds high standard -this being driven by the local flavours being fused with the classics to form a cuisine unlike anything even seasoned foodies will have experienced. The first evening was magical. Settling into the gentle pace of life at the hotel was easy. My room was incredible, the staff’s level of attention just right and the entire setting was simply spellbinding. I spent the next few days exploring the national park. There are endless trails leading through the forest and
around the falls themselves. The most spectacular of these is the so called ‘Devils Throat’ trail. The devil’s throat or ‘Garganta del Diablo’ is a narrow u shaped basin a half mile long. Funneling all of this rushing water into such a tight space means the roar and fume of this unparalleled cascade is not only heard but felt long before you emerge from the jungle canopy to be bowled over by this sight. But for some a wooden walkway perched mere inches above the river simply isn’t close enough. To get closer we’re going to have to either take to the gentle air or the turbulent waters. I choose the water which featured heart pounding, bone juddering, fast paced adventure. As I strode onto the jetty I was under absolutely no illusions as to what was ahead. Being handed a rain protector that covered me from head to toe and a heavy towel before being led towards a
bright orange speedboat let me know I was going to get wet, possibly soaked. With a enormous roar and a high plume of water astern, our boat set off as though trying to answer the sounds of the falls themselves. This was a high adrenaline trip hammering over rapids, before stalling under the falls to take a soaking and feel the water drum down. For those who would prefer a more relaxing and exclusive encounter with the falls a helicopter service is also available. With this journey you are brought above, around and through the canyon. Hovering over the most spectacular falls to afford a viewpoint unlike any the people below will see. I could easily have spent much longer here. Looking back now, I can’t recommend Brazil highly enough.
From relaxing in colonial decadence beside one of the world’s natural wonders, to breaking my fast on top of the world with Christ the Redeemer I had an incredible journey. Full of warm people, endless adventure, perfect service and eye opening food.
Rock Castle, Portstewart BT55 7PB, N. Ireland Telephone: +44 (0) 28 7035 2877 Facsimile: +44 (0) 28 7035 3421
[email protected] www.wpexclusiveluxury.com
From the four corners
