INTERNATIONAL COMMITTEES ANNUAL REPORT 2009 A) ACTIVITY REPORT B) FINANCIAL REPORT C) THREE-YEAR PLAN D) SIGN-OFF BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE COMMITTEE

To be returned by 15 FEBRUARY 2010 to: ICOM Secretariat- Division of Administration and Finance UNESCO House 1, rue Miollis – 75015 Paris-France Tel.:+ 33 (1) 47.34.05.00 – Fax: +33 (1) 43.06.78.62 Email: [email protected]

This report is a tool for better understanding the work of the International Committees and will help ICOM allocate its resources fairly and productively. Good reporting is the best way to promote the recognition of the work of International Committees in general and your committee in particular! The allocation of yearly subvention to each International Committee is based on the Annual Report of the prior year. Committees whose 2009 annual report does not reach ICOM Secretariat by the deadline of 15 February 2010 will receive no subvention in 2010.

A) ACTIVITY REPORT 2009 1. General information Name of Committee: Costume 1.1 Membership ICOM Secretariat will provide membership numbers as soon as reliable information will be available. However, due to limited answers from three National Committees which have not yet reported on their membership figures, ICOM Secretariat can not guarantee that this information will be available before the reporting deadline.

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most recent numbers from ICOM: 245 individual and institutional members

1.2 Governance Please list the members of the board: Chairperson:

Name Katia Johansen Country: Denmark Year Elected to Board: 2001 Year Elected as Chair: 2007

Secretary:

Name Vicki Berger Country: USA Year Elected to Board: 2007

Other Board Members Name

Country

Role in the Board

Bianca du Mortier

Netherlands

vice-chair

Year Elected 1998?

Bernard Berthod

France

Brigitte HerrbachSchmidt Alexandra Kim

Germany

treasurer

2007 2007

Pernilla Rasmussen

Sweden

UK

2007 webmaster/editor (ex officio/contractor)

2004

2. Annual Activities 2.1 Annual Meeting Please provide the following information about your annual meeting for 2009. Dates 4-9 October + post conference tour 10-14 October Location (city/country) Lyon, France

Number of participants Attendees

Geographic Origins From the Region From the host country From the rest of the world

A. ICOM Members from 38 your IC

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35

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B. Other ICOM Members 1

1

C. Total ICOM Members 39 (A+B) D. Non-ICOM Members 6

Total Attendees (C+D)

6

45

Host Partner(s) Musée de Fourvière et Musée des Tissus et des arts décoratifs de Lyon

National Committee(s) Did you notify the National Committee when holding a meeting in its country? Yes

Joint Meeting? If this meeting was jointly presented with another ICOM organization (International Committee, National Committee, Affiliated Organization), please identify the other organization(s). -In-Kind Services If appropriate, please list services that were provided to your committee for the meeting (e.g. use of space for meetings, receptions, mail, translation, printing, etc.) receptions, tours, meeting space, translation, printing of Proceedings, etc: Fondation Fourvière and Musée de Fourviére Lyon (staff, meeting rooms, translation, photocopying), Atelier-Musée du Chapeau Chazelles (tour), Musée de la Soiereie Charlieu (tour), Centre National du Costume de Scène Moulins (tour, refreshments), Hôtel du département Lyon (reception), Consulate of the United States of America Lyon (simultaneous translation), Chambre de Commerce et d’Industrie Lyon (administration), Musée des Tissus Lyon (reception, meeting space, Proceedings), Hôtel du departement de Moulins (lunch, exhibition tour), Musée Regard sur la Visitation Moulins (tour), Musée de la Dentelle de Retournac (tour) What other organizations were eventually involved with the meeting (e.g. sponsors, other organizations, museums, ICOM national committee, another IC, etc.)? ICOM Paris: we enjoyed welcoming Director General Julien Anfruns to visit our meeting and give a short talk on ICOM’s activities and visions; Chamber of Commerce, Lyon, Conseil Géneral de la Haute Loire, Conseil général du Rhone, Conseil général de L’Allier, Mairie du Puy en Velay Language In what language(s) was the meeting conducted? English, French International Committee Annual Report

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Was simultaneous translation provided for some or all of the meeting? Yes, the lecture sessions

Results/Products (e.g. publication, Web report, networking, training, etc.) Theme: costume and the textile trade. The Proceedings are generously being published by the Musée des Tissus, Lyon. Reports by many delegates are afterwards submitted to their national committees and three reports are published in our Newsletter. Newspaper articles were printed in newspapers in Lyon and Moulins. 2.2 Communication Please describe the frequency and methods of communication (surface mail, email, Web site, ICOM News, Newsletter, promotions in trade publications, etc.) you have used to contact members of the committee. - twice yearly Newsletter: Costume News: 2009:1: 6 May 2009: 19 pages 2009:2: 12 December 2009: 41 pages - mailings by internet and post as necessary, usually 2-3 times a year - Website: http://www.costume-committee.org/ provides general information as well as information specifically for members on a secure section (most importantly the Newsletter, minutes of last meeting, and access to the members’ directory, one of our most vital resources). A secure blog site for Board members has been added to the website to improve communication.

2.3 Publications - Please list publications (paper and electronic) in progress or completed in this year and indicate status (published, in progress), please include editor / number of pages / n° ISBN / date of publication / language of publication, - Please send a copy of each publication to the ICOM Secretariat. Costume News, 2 editions: 2009:1: 6 May 2009: 19 pages; 2009:2: 12 December 2009: 41 pages

Proceedings from annual conference 6-10 October 2008, Santiago, Chile: Colonial Fashion: What happens to fashion when it travels? Edited by Isabel Alvarado, ISBN 978-956-332-045-9, 109 pages, English and French, fully illustrated in color and black and white, containing 17 papers presented at the conference. Published 2009 in Santiago, Chile. Distributed to participants at the Lyon meeting and sent in February 2010 to committee members. Proceedings from the 2009 meeting in Lyon were collected after the meeting to be published, édition EMCE, Lyon, for distribution and sale February 22, 2010, through the generosity of the Musée des Tissus, edited by director Maria-Anne Privat-Savigny. These will be available for purchase by Committee members at cost price.

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2.4 Participation of Young Professionals Paola Di Trocchio, Melbourne, Australia, received a travel grant from ICOM to participate in the annual meeting in Lyon.

2.5 Participation of Representatives from Developing Countries: Reference can be made to those countries identified as belonging to categories 2, 3 and 4 as determined for the new membership policy to be applied in 2010 and available at the following address http://icom.museum/download/feepolicy_ENG.pdf 1 member from Chile (2), 2 from Czech Republic (2), 2 from Israel (2), 1 from New Zealand (2), 1 from Serbia (3). Unfortunately we do not have many members in the other countries.

2.6 Achievements for the Year 2009 Please list anything not covered above that you want to tell us about your committee’s achievements! The Committee Newsletter, Costume News, is an impressive publication, not least of all including an overview of important costume exhibitions around the world. This section is so important - and so coveted - that the Board is considering if it should be made available to the public for a fee. This information, contributed by members and ably collected by the editor, Pernilla Rasmussen, might prove to be a source of income to the Committee - making ICOM the place to go to get updates on the latest activities in costume and fashion! New members have recently joined expressly for the purpose of networking regarding research in costume history. Research is an area the Board would like to develop, possibly in association with other ICOM committees. The annual meeting in Lyon was an exciting presentation of French costume and collections that were not well known to our members. It was followed by an excellent post-conference tour to the area, presenting manufacturers and collections which we would not have discovered otherwise.

B) FINANCIAL REPORT 2009 If you think your committee will benefit from giving a more detailed financial report, throwing attention to important aspects of your financial activities and considerations, please feel free to do so at the end of this financial report form.

B.1) Statement of activities (please specify the currency used) ACTUAL INCOME

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(1) Balance from previous years brought forward

5795.05

(2) ICOM Subvention

4000

(3) Other ICOM funding travel subsidy for young member performance subsidy, ICOM travel

2000 2761 400

(4) Revenue from annual meeting (to be detailed in section B.2 below) (5) Membership income (if applicable) (6) Other income (please detail – e.g. Sponsorship,)

350 private sponsor

(A) Total income (Sum of items 1 to 6)

15,306.05

ACTUAL EXPENSES (7) Bursaries

2000

(8) Publications

546.00

(9) Web site

1175.99

(10) Expenses related to annual meetings [including administrative meetings] (to be detailed in section B.2 below)

2000,350,- dinner meeting of Board with Director General (paid by private sponsor)

(11) Bank charges

57.27

(12) Other expenditures (please detail) (B) Total expenditures (Sum of items 7 to 12) Balance to be carried forward (A-B)

6129.26 9176.79

Note! It appears we have not yet received our entire 2009 subvention from ICOM; this is being investigated.

B.2) Specific statement of activities for Annual Meeting (please specify the currency used)

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Note (*) : Income directly being paid into a host institution/organisation (like in many instances participation fees) as well as costs for services given/covered by a host institution/organisation, and not handled by the committee, shall also be reported below or through any statement of activities prepared by the host institution/organisation to be attached to this report. What were the participation fees? Early Registration: Members 34 x €280 Non-Members______________ Registration: Members 6 x €320 Non-Members 9 accompanying x €230 Other: 2 (1 x €240, 1 x €95) TOTAL Income €13845

Participation Fees*

€1330

Sponsorship*

€2000

From Committee funds Other*

€17175

TOTAL INCOME (C)

Expenses Space rental* Transportation*

€1050

Hospitality (receptions)* Guest speaker(s)* Bursaries for participants* (indicate number of bursaries and total amount) Support material for meeting* (agendas, brochures, invitations) Translation* Other (please specify)* Production and printing of Proceedings, Lyon: gift of the Textile Museum, Lyon

€4546.40

(value: €15000)

TOTAL EXPENSES (D) NET RESULT (C-D)

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NOTE! Please see attached budget (budget_Lyon_2.doc) from the meeting in Lyon for a detailed overview. An outstanding bill from the Lyon Chamber of Commerce (€2000 paid in advance by the Committee) has not yet been received. The Committee practice of presenting and exchanging costume-related gifts contributed by members to our hosts is a valued custom at the annual meeting, allowing us to promote knowledge of each others’ collections – and saving money for the committee. Additional information Please let us have any further comments on the relationship between ICOM and your committee that have not already been captured in this survey. The difficulties for us in arranging the upcoming meeting in Shanghai cannot be underestimated. As we have no members in China, the appointed coordinators (the first coordinator was replaced last year, with no explanation) have no knowledge of our committee and how it works. Indeed – they are not even members of ICOM. Membership of ICOM should be offered the General Conference’s official coordinators, at the least! And extra attention paid to how committees without members in the General Conference country can arrange satisfactory meetings (Rio will be another “problem” destination for Costume). Since we have not been able to promote this meeting as we usually do – with introductory presentations at the two preceding meetings – there is little enthusiasm about attending. We have urged the Chinese coordinators to attend our past two meetings, even to the extent of offering free accommodations, organizing a travel contribution from ICOM in Paris and waiving the meeting fees, but without luck. We would really like to take the opportunity to show our Chinese colleagues the wonderful advantages of belonging to this Committee – but it doesn’t look as if we will be very successful. Nonetheless, we continue the planning as best we can. The lack of knowledge of specific costume-related activities at the Shanghai meeting, along with the considerable travel expenses for most of our members, means that few will attend. We are attempting to arrange a specifically costume-related post-conference tour to make it more attractive to go to Shanghai. Just the 2-3 days allotted to Committee activities are too little in themselves. It seems our members come for the Committee activities and not so much to participate in other ICOM sessions – and we have noticed a certain reluctance regarding the Triennials in general because they are usually more expensive than our regular meetings, and with shorter time for Committee activities. In addition, we have been informed that we will have to pay for simultaneous translation ourselves, as none of the Chinese colleagues who are being invited to give papers speak English. Surely this is an expense for ICOM and not for our Committee? On the other hand, there is great interest in other Committee activities, and we will be launching a new effort this fall, with the Costume Workshop, a working meeting about how “Clothes Tell Stories”. Hopefully it will result in material that can become the basis of a workbook to be distributed to museums without trained costume staff. (please see further details in our application to ICOM for a project support grant, January 2010).

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C) THREE-YEAR PLAN 2010-2012 This form shall be filled in every year and describes your plans for the following three years. You may not know the exact answers to every question, but please provide as much information as you can about your intentions. It is understood that plans for the second and third years will be less detailed than those for the first year. For 2010, please include your planned participation in the Shanghai meetings. Please fill in the three tables below to the extent the information is available. For 2010: The Board continues its action to encourage participation in Committee activities and resources and to make the Committee more visible. However, since this is election year, we cannot guarantee what actions the new Board (to be announced in Shanghai) will wish to take for the 2010-2012 period. A new blog function on our website has been developed to make communication between board members quicker and better - absolutely necessary when everyone needs to participate in for example grant applications and annual reports to ICOM. As we are far apart geographically and only meet at the annual meeting, e-mails are our primary form of contact. ICOM activities are reported on by the Chair, at the annual meetings and in the Newsletter. The meetings in Paris are a good opportunity to develop contacts to other committees. The Board has agreed upon paying (in future) an honorarium to our contracted webmaster and editor, as the website and Newsletter, primarily distributed by e-mail, are our vital contacts to the membership. Unfortunately there are still large postal fees to pay for sending the Newsletters to members who have not submitted an e-mail address which works. An easier access to newest information at ICOM about members’ address changes would be a money-saving help. We do not have the time to keep an up-dated membership list and must rely on information from ICOM in Paris. The generous offer of the Textile Museum of Lyon to print the Proceedings of the meeting in October 2009 has added another handsome publication to our list of books. The Proceedings will be published February 22 and is being made available to Committee members at cost price. annual meeting 2010: The General Conference in Shanghai is an exciting proposition, but as we have no Chinese members at all, it is requiring an immense amount of work to put together a program. We invited both the first and the second Chinese coordinators to participate in our meetings in both 2008 and 2009 (even offering to sponsor expenses, with the help of ICOM), but without success. With very little information from China about the precise program, and because of the travel expenses, we do not expect a large participation. Only 10 members indicated in Lyon last year that they were considering attending. Election of the new Board is now in motion, according to the nomination and election procedures laid down by ICOM and the Committee, the results to be announced in Shanghai. We have encouraged our younger members to attend, and announced the possibility of travel grants from ICOM. working meeting 2010: In order to maintain the good momentum we have from the recent years’ excellent annual meetings, we will meet in Munich in September 2010 for an additional, different kind of meeting: a workshop on costume called “Costume Tells Stories”, an area of interest and importance to all who work with costume. This is a two-year project in which we plan to gather the information and ideas that are generated to publish a “Costume Workbook” on a CD. This will be a help and inspiration to all museums with costume in their collections - also those

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without costume specialists on their staff. Ideas about how to use costume: costume for kids, reconstructions from paintings, Grandma’s clothes, doll’s clothes, politicians and suits: costume can help tell any story that needs to be told. (See more information in our grant application to ICOM, January 2010). annual meeting 2011: Belgrade was chosen as host for the annual meeting several years ago, and an exciting program was presented in Lyon in October 2009. It is planned as a joint meeting with ICME, combining costume-ethnography, enabling the members of the two committees to get to know each other, expanding each other’s contacts, and instigating new projects between the two committees. working meeting 2011: The Costume Workbook will be produced after an extra working meeting, perhaps in conjunction with the Belgrade meeting, for the editors and volunteers from the committee. Financial support will be provided in part by the Committee, sponsorship and grants. annual meeting 2012: The location of this meeting has not yet been decided. Suggestions made at the Lyon meeting included Spain, Italy, Algeria, Morocco, Belgium and Calais, Turkey. 2012 is the Committee’s 50th anniversary. We are intent upon meeting in an area not yet visited – but the logisitics of planning a meeting where we do not have members are time-consuming.

C.1) Plan for 2010 2010 Annual Meeting + working meeting Location (2)

Shanghai, China + working meeting Munich

Date

7-12 November Shanghai + early September Munich Shanghai: “Chinese Costume: Materials, techniques and style Munich: “Costume Tells Stories” Munich: working meeting “Costume Tells Stories”. See further details under Three-year plans.

Theme

If this meeting is not planned for Shanghai 2010, please indicate reason for not participating in Triennial Conference.

2-3 e-mailings + postal mailings; Newsletter, website, blog Communication

Publications

Costume News 2 issues; Proceedings from 2009 meeting in Lyon; report from Working Meeting, Munich. We have not yet discussed the possibility of a publication of the proceedings of the Shanghai meeting.

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Participation of Target Groups

Young members have been encouraged to participate apply for travel grants.

Young Professionals

The Committee has submitted an application for a young member’s participation in the Shanghai meeting.

Representatives from Developing Countries

We are planning to contact colleagues in developing countries through cooperation with ICME for the meeting in 2011

Outreach to young members; meeting with non-members in China and presenting our Committee to them; improving professional skills by way of workshop meeting; making this information available to others through a CD; presenting costume activities in Newsletter and on our website. We are investigating the possibility of presenting our Other objectives (innovations, information about costume activities to a broader public special projects, awards, etc.) (exhibitions on our website, contact with professionals for the public etc.). Activities Related to ICOM Strategic Plan

Estimated Budget

The working meeting is expected to pay for itself, while the “Costume Workbook” project will be financed by funding from the Committee, sponsorship, and hopefully grant money from ICOM and other sources.

Income Expenses Net surplus/(deficit)

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C.2) Plan for 2011 2011 Annual Meeting

annual meeting and post-conference tour + working meeting for editors

Location

Belgrade, Serbia

Date

early October 2011

Theme

Costume/Ethnography: East and West

Communication

announcements in ICOM News, ICOM-listserve, websites and directly to membership of ICOM, Costume and ICME

Publications

a joint publication of Proceedings with ICME is envisioned. In addition, the “Costume Tells Stories” CD will be produced and distributed.

Enlarging our contact by meeting with members of ICME, and Participation of Target having the meeting in Eastern Europe, where we have not met before. Groups Young Professionals

The Costume Committee will continue to encourage young members to apply for ICOM’s travel grants. The past three applications have been successful and are very much appreciated, also by the Committee!

Representatives from Developing Countries

Our “Costume Tells Stories” project will include direct contact to colleagues in developing countries who are not yet members.

joint meeting with ICME; meeting in Serbia, where we have not Activities Related to previously met; raising professional standards; target contact with ICOM Strategic Plan developing countries through costume project The meeting coincides with “The month of dress” in Serbia and will be organized in conjunction with many of the city’s museums, supported by the Ministry of Culture of Serbia, the Secretariat of Culture of Belgrade, the Province Secretariat for Culture – Novi Sad, the Faculty of Applied Arts at University of Arts in Belgrade, City of Belgrade, Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Fashion Studio Click.

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co-hosted with ICME, expanding both committees’ contacts and activities. The “Costume Tells Stories” project will result in a CD with Other objectives (innovations, special inspiration for how to utilize costume in a myriad of ways, also in projects, awards, etc.) museums without specialist staff.

Estimated Budget

The annual meeting and post-conference tour is meant to finance itself, as is customary in this Committee. Grants and sponsorship will be applied for to reduce expenses, keeping the participation fees at a minimum. The working meeting for editors of the Costume Workbook will be financed by grants and sponsorship.

Income Expenses Net surplus/(deficit)

Any profit will be directed towards the Costume Tells Stories project.

C.3) Plan for 2012 2012 Annual Meeting

not yet decided; the Board is investigating possibilities in the suggested locations of Spain, Italy, Algeria, Morocco, Belgium and Calais, Turkey. In the past 10 years we have met in Lisbon, Barcelona, Oakland USA, Krakow, Seoul, Berlin, Copenhagen, Vienna, Santiago Chile, and Lyon. Africa and the Middle East are now at the top of the list.

Location Date Theme Newsletters, website, mailings, blog Communication

Publications

We will continue to publish Proceedings, perhaps in future on CDs

We are keen to develop contacts to colleagues in countries not Participation of Target yet represented in our committee. Groups

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Young Professionals

We continue to encourage the participation of young members.

Representatives from Developing Countries

Through collaboration with other ICOM committees, we hope to establish contact with colleagues who are not yet members.

Promoting the activities of the committee; translation of the Activities Related to website (when the grant given by ICOM in 2009 is released); ICOM Strategic Plan distributing information about how to use and handle costume in museums without trained costume staff (CD from project);

Other objectives (innovations, special projects, awards, etc.)

Estimated Budget

Based on our results in 2011, we may consider another joint meeting with an ICOM Committee: CAMOC is high on our list.

Our annual meetings are expected to finance themselves, with sponsorship and grants to keep the participation fees low.

Income Expenses Net surplus/(deficit)

D) SIGN-OFF BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE COMMITTEE Name of the President:

Katia Johansen

Place: Lyngby, Denmark

Date: 15 February 2010

Signature ______________________________________________

This report should be 1) either signed by the President of the Committee and send to ICOM Secretariat via surface mail or by fax: ICOM Secretariat- Division of Finance and Administration UNESCO House 1, rue Miollis – 75015 Paris-France Fax: +33 (1) 43.06.78.62

2) or emailed in an electronic format by the President of the Committee at [email protected]

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ICOM Costume Budget Realise 2 matériel du congressiste -sacoche, dossiers -bloc, stylo

passif €1859.78

transport abonnement TCL

€1050.00

pause café Café et boisson Viennoiserie

€194.59

Lunch lundi 5,6,7,9 plateaux repas

€2239.14

Visites des accompagnants transcitana, imprimeri, Beaux arts, miniatures

€756.00

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actif inscriptions: avant le 15 juillet: 280 € (34 x 280 €) apres le 15 juillet: 320 € (6 x 320 €) acompagnants (230 €) (9 x 230€) tarif spéciaux: 240 € (1 personne) 95 € (1 personne)

€ 9520,00

Subvention: Consulat des Etats-Unis

€1330.00

16/18

€ 1920,00 € 2070,00

€ 240.00 € 95.00

Visites jeudi 8.10 car aller/reour Musée Visistation CNCS (€ 2,50)

€710.00

Déjeuner 8.10 sandwich

€546.00

Visites 9.10 Musées chapeau et soierie -car (Chazelle) -car (Charlieu)

€760.00

Soirée Farewell 9.10

€ 2.600.00

Traduction 2 x 1/2 journée (interprète)

€4066.40

Traduction 1 interprète durant 1 journèe

€480.00

Total

€15,261.91

€15,175.00

difference 20.10.09: -€ 86.91

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