Innovative MultiFunctional Ingredients
Belinda Carli
www.personalcarescience.com.au
[email protected]
Why Multi-Functional? Materials
that offer more than one role:
premium sensory from functional materials enhanced aesthetics from actives actives with multiple benefits
Why Multi-Functional? Consumers:
want more out of each product expect premium sensory and performance but competitive pricing notice products that offer and deliver more
Manufacturers:
less materials on floor economies of scale ‘easier’ formulating quicker/less dispensing quicker/less processing
Multi-Functional Functionals
Sucragel
(AlfaCos) INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Glycerine, Water, Sucrose Laurate OR INCI: Glycerine, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua (94% CO)
natural (green) liquid emulsifier sprayable
oil thickening agent oily
to cream viscosity
gels, serums, balms, scrubs
boosts skin hydration up to 8 hours (cleansing products) washes off readily cold processable
Multi-Functional Functionals Avalure
Flex-6 (Lubrizol) INCI: Polyurethane-62, Trideceth-6
emulsification/emulsion stabilisation (up to 60%O) compatible with metal oxides boosts SPF pigment dispersion film formation and water resistance soft powdery skin feel cold processable
Multi-Functional Functionals Biophilic
H(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) INCI: Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid Biophilic S (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) INCI: Lecithin, C12-16 alcohols, Palmitic acid
co-emulsifiers enable high content of oil stabilise and sustained release of actives restrucuring and conditioning to the skin film forming; prevents TEWL rich texture, can build viscosity exceptional skin feel
Multi-Functional Functionals Ceralution
H (Sasol) INCI: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate
O/W emulsifier pump foams high affinity for the skin and hair anti-oxidant anti-ageing
Multi-Functional Functionals Novemer
EC-2 INCI: Sodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lauryl Glucoside
emulsifies, thickens, stabilises elegant sensory rich skin feel from very little extra lipid = budget products cold process
Multi-Functional Functionals Emulactive
(Natura-Tec) INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Soy Isoflavones
O/W emulsifier delivery of active substances light touch/velvety afterfeel film forming; protects skin barrier prevents TEWL
Multi-Functional Actives LaraCare
A200 (Lonza) INCI: Galactoarabinan
reduces TEWL reduces fine lines and wrinkles up to 19% (8 weeks) reduce emulsion particle size: 2-3microns boosts SPF: 5-60% increase efficacy of skin exfoliants substantive to hair and heat protecting
Multi-Functional Actives Lipolami
ER Milk Thistle (Alban Muller) INCI: Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester
natural soft touch esters from milk thistle oil linoleic acid for skin barrier protection stability and fineness of emulsions solubilises sunscreens and perfumes disperses pigments and minerals can be used in surfactants without affecting performance or foam
Multi-Functional Actives Beracare
BBA (Beraca) INCI: Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil
organic hair conditioning active comparable to cationics whitening activity evens the skin tone increases hyaluronic acid improves firmness promotes deep hydration
Multi-Functional Actives Phyto(flu)ene
(IBR) INCI: Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dunaliella Salina Extract
immediately visible redness reduction/whitening effect: colourless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene – when illuminated by sun/UV light they flouresce, giving off ‘green’ anti-inflammatory antioxidant UV absorbance skin tone lightening
Multi-Functional Actives Maritech
Bright (Marinova) INCI: Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
organic whitening anti-age spot reduced wrinkle depth antioxidant benefits
Multi-Functional Actives Solashield
(Solabia Biotecnologica) INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Propanediol, Calcium Alginate, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid
protection from pollution and heavy metals UV boosting antioxidant smoothing and wrinkle filling
Tips & Tricks Use
multi-functional functionals to form the base Can vary ‘base’ with other functionals to suit purpose Marketing to maximise on efficacy/performance = use multi-functional functional data! Make it ‘multipurpose’ – one product for multiple uses
Questions? Belinda Carli:
[email protected] www.personalcarescience.com.au Leaders in Distance and On-line Education - Training & Upskilling chemists of the future globally -