© Lonely Planet Publications 472

Index ABBREVIATIONS Albania Bosnia & Hercegovina Cro Croatia Kos Kosovo Mac Macedonia Mon Montenegro Ser Serbia

INDEX

Alb BiH

1990s conflict 34-5 Albania 55 BiH 105-6 Croatia 175-7 environmental impact of 47 Kosovo 270 Macedonia 285 Montenegro 338 Serbia 376

A accommodation 424-6, see also individual locations Albania 93 BiH 162-3 Croatia 251-3 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 327 Montenegro 367-8 Serbia 417 activities 426-7, see also individual activities Albania 93-4 BiH 163 Croatia 253-4 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 327-8 Montenegro 368 Serbia 417 addresses 425 Albania 62 air travel air fares 441 airlines 439-40 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

airports 439-40 Albania 98, 441 BiH 166-7, 441 Croatia 257, 258, 441 Kosovo 280, 442 Macedonia 330, 442 Montenegro 371, 442 Serbia 420-1, 442 to/from the Western Balkans 439-42 within the Western Balkans 445 Albania 11, 48-100, 50, 11 accommodation 93 activities 93-4 addresses 62 arts 57-9 books 94 border crossings 98-9 bunkers 55 business hours 94 cinema 58-9 climate 49 costs 49 courses 94 culture 56-7, 59 dance 58 disabilities, travellers with 97 economy 55-6 embassies 95 emergencies 97 environmental issues 61 EU membership 56 exchange rates, see inside front cover fax services 97 festivals 95 food 59-60 gay travellers 95 geography 60 history 51-6 holidays 95 itineraries 49 language 95-6, 454-5 lesbian travellers 95 literature 58 magazines 93 mobile phones 97 money 96 music 58 national parks 61

newspapers 93 planning 49 population 56 postal services 96 radio 93 religion 57 safety 64, 94-5 telephone services 97 tipping 96 tourist information 97 travel to/from 98-99 travel within 99-100 TV 93 vegetarian travellers 60 visas 97 visual arts 57 women in Albania 56 women travellers 97-8 Ali Pasha of Tepelena 52 Andrić, Ivo 108, 147, 152 animals 46 Albania 60 BiH 110 Croatia 180 Kosovo 273 Macedonia 288-9 Montenegro 341 Serbia 380-1 Apollonia (Alb) 75 Archduke Franz Ferdinand 114 architecture 39-40 Croatia 176-7 Kosovo 272 Macedonia 286 Montenegro 339 Serbia 379 area codes, see inside front cover arts 38-42, see also cinema, crafts, dance, literature, music, visual arts Albania 57-9 BiH 108-9 Croatia 176-8 Kosovo 272 Macedonia 286-7 Montenegro 338-9 Serbia 377-9 ATMs 20, 434 Albania 96 BiH 165 Croatia 255

I n d e x ( A - B ) 473

Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329 Montenegro 370 Serbia 419

B

climate 102 costs 102 crafts 108-9 culture 107 disabilities, travellers with 166 embassies 164 emergencies 165 environmental issues 110 EU membership 107 exchange rates, see inside front cover food 109-10 gay travellers 164 geography 110 history 102-7 holidays 164-5 internet resources 165 itineraries 102 language 165, 455-8 lesbian travellers 164 literature 108 maps 165 mobile phones 166 money 165 music 109 national parks 110 newspapers 163 planning 102 population 107 postal services 165-6 radio 163 religion 107-8 safety 164 telephone services 166 tourist information 166 travel to/from 166-7 travel within 167-8 TV 163 vegetarian travellers 109 visas 166 Brač Island (Cro) 237 Brajčino (Mac) 310 Brčko (BiH) 149-50 Brela (Cro) 236-8 bridges Mehmet Paša Sokolović Bridge (BiH) 147 Old Bridge, Mostar (BiH) 6, 133-4, 263, 6 Brijuni Islands National Park (Cro) 207-8 Budva (Mon) 349-53, 351 bunkers 55 bus travel Albania 81, 98, 99 BiH 167-8 Croatia 257, 259

INDEX

Balkans Peace Park 61, 92, 341 Banja Luka (BiH) 158-60, 158 Bansko (Mac) 326 Bar (Mon) 354-6 Baška (Cro) 217 Bay of Kotor (Mon) 341-9 beaches Adriatic Coast (Mon) 349-57 Bay of Kotor (Mon) 341-9 Dalmatia (Cro) 220-51 Ionian coast (Alb) 82-90 Istria (Cro) 199-210 itineraries 28, 28 Kvarner Region (Cro) 210-20 Lake Ohrid (Mac) 300-9 Lake Prespa (Mac) 309-11 beer 43 Bektashi Islam 37, 57 Belgrade (Ser) 10, 263, 381-97, 383, 386, 10, 262 accommodation 391-2 activities 390 drinking 394-5 entertainment 395-7 festivals 390-1 food 391-2 history 381-2 internet access 382 internet resources 382 itineraries 384 medical services 382 shopping 397 sights 383-90 tourist information 383 tours 390 travel to/from 397 travel within 397-8 Berat (Alb) 75-8, 76 Berovo (Mac) 324-5 bicycle travel, see cycling BiH, see Bosnia & Hercegovina Bihać (BiH) 161 biking, see cycling Biogradska Gora National Park (Mon) 367 birds Albania 60-1 BiH 110 Croatia 180

Kosovo 273 Macedonia 288 Montenegro 341 Serbia 380-1 birdwatching Albania 93 Macedonia 309, 310, 313, 320 Serbia 390, 417 Bitola (Mac) 311-13, 312 Bjelašnica (BiH) 129-30 Blagaj (BiH) 138-9 Blidinje (BiH) 110 Blue Eye Spring (Alb) 88 boat travel to/from Albania 99 to/from the Western Balkans 443-5 within Croatia 258-9, 221 within the Western Balkans 448 boat trips, see also canoeing, kayaking, rafting, yachting Dubrovnik (Cro) 250 Lake Koman (Alb) 91-2, 265, 264 Lake Ohrid (Mac) 308 Bobovac (BiH) 151 Boka Kotorska (Mon) 341-9 books 22-4, see also literature Albania 94 BiH 163-4 Croatia 254 food 44 history 33 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 368-9 Roma life 41 Serbia 417-18 border crossings 442-3 Albania 98-9 BiH 167 Croatia 257-8 Kosovo 280 Macedonia 330 Montenegro 371 Serbia 421 Borsh (Alb) 85 Bosanska Krupa (BiH) 162 Bosnia & Hercegovina 101-68, 267, 103, 106 accommodation 162-3 activities 163 arts 108-9 books 163-4 border crossings 167 business hours 164 cinema 108

474 I n d e x ( B - C )

bus travel continued Kosovo 280 Macedonia 330, 331 Montenegro 371, 372 Serbia 421, 422 to/from the Western Balkans 442-3 within the Western Balkans 446 bushwalking, see hiking business hours 428 Albania 94 BiH 164 Croatia 254 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 369 Serbia 418 Butrint (Alb) 87-8

INDEX

C camping 425, 428-9, see also individual locations Albania 93 Croatia 252 Montenegro 368 canoeing 426, see also kayaking, rafting Čapljina (BiH) 141 car travel 446-8 Albania 98, 99 BiH 167, 168 Croatia 257-8, 259-60 driving licences 446 insurance 447 Kosovo 280 Macedonia 330, 331-2 Montenegro 371, 372 organisations 446 rules 447-8 Serbia 422-3 carnivals, see festivals & events castles Banja Luka (BiH) 159-60 Belgrade (Ser) 383-5 BiH 149, 267 Blagaj (BiH) 138 Bobovac (BiH) 151 Doboj (BiH) 151 Golubac fortress (Ser) 398-9 Gradačac (BiH) 149 Jajce (BiH) 155, 267 Novi Sad (Ser) 399-400 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

Ohrid (Mac) 303 Orlijani (BiH) 162 Osijek (Cro) 196-7 Ostrožac (BiH) 162 Počitelj (BiH) 141-2, 267, 266 Smederevo (Ser) 398 Sokolac (BiH) 162 Srebrenik (BiH) 149, 267 Stolac (BiH) 142-3 Tešanj (BiH) 152 Travnik (BiH) 9, 152, 9 Vranduk (BiH) 151, 267 Catholicism 37, see also religion caves Gadimë Cave (Kos) 276 Kratovo (Mac) 323 Lake Matka (BiH) 297 Pazin Cave (Cro) 208 Resava Cave (Ser) 407 Vjetrenica Cave (BiH) 143 Vrbas Canyons (BiH) 160 Cavtat (Cro) 250 cell phones, see mobile phones Cetinje (Mon) 267, 358-60, 359 ćevapi 109 children, travel with 428-9 health 452-3 cinema 42 Albania 58-9 BiH 108 Kosovo 272 Macedonia 286-7 Montenegro 338-9 Serbia 378 climate 19, 429, 430 Albania 49 BiH 102 Croatia 170 Kosovo 270 Macedonia 282 Montenegro 334 Serbia 374 climbing BiH 159, 162 Croatia 253 Serbia 417 coffee 44, 110 conservation, see environmental issues consulates 432 Albania 95 BiH 164 Croatia 254 Kosovo 278-9 Macedonia 328-9

Montenegro 369 Serbia 418-19 corruption 431 costs 19-20, see also money Albania 49 BiH 102 Croatia 170 Kosovo 270 Macedonia 282 Montenegro 334 Serbia 374 courses Albania 94 Serbia 418 crafts BiH 108-9 credit cards 434 Albania 96 Croatia 255 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329 Montenegro 370 Serbia 419 Cres Islands (Cro) 219 Cres Town (Cro) 219 Croatia 169-260, 172-3, 221 accommodation 251-3 activities 253-4 architecture 176-7 arts 176-8 books 254 border crossings 257-8 business hours 254 climate 170 costs 170 culture 176 customs regulations 254 dance 178 disabilities, travellers with 256 economy 176 embassies 254 emergencies 256 environmental issues 180 EU membership 169, 176, 180 exchange rates, see inside front cover ferry routes 221 festivals 255 food 178-9 gay travellers 255 geography 179-80 history 170-6 holidays 255 internet access 255 internet resources 255

I n d e x ( C - E ) 475

D Dalmatia (Cro) 220-51 ferry routes 221 dance Albania 58 Croatia 178

Macedonia 287 Montenegro 339 dangers, see emergencies, landmines, safety, scams Daorson Archaeological Park (BiH) 143 Dayton Peace Accords 34, 106, 175 Demir Kapija Gorge (Mac) 322 Ðerdap National Park (Ser) 381 Despotovac (Ser) 407 Dhërmi (Alb) 84 diarrhoea 452 Dihovo (Mac) 314-15 Diocletian’s Palace (Cro) 228 disabilities, travellers with 436-7 Albania 97 BiH 166 Croatia 256 Kosovo 279-80 Macedonia 330 Montenegro 371 Serbia 420 discount cards 432 diving 21, 427 Croatia 200, 206, 218, 243, 253 Montenegro 342, 356, 368 Doboj (BiH) 151-2 Dobroselica (Ser) 416 Dobrun (BiH) 148 Dolni Disan (Mac) 322 Dolno Dupeni (Mac) 311 Dragačevo Trumpet Festival (Ser) 414 Draža Mihailović 33 Drina Valley (BiH) 146-8 drinks 43-4, see also coffee, wine driving licences 446 driving, see car travel drugs illegal 431 prescription 451 Drymades (Alb) 84-5 Dubrovnik (Cro) 7, 244-51, 245, 246, 7 accommodation 248-9 activities 247-8 drinking 250 entertainment 250 festivals 248 food 249-50 history 244 internet access 244 itineraries 250 medical services 244 shopping 250-1 sights 244-7 tourist information 244

tours 248 travel to/from 251 travel within 251 Durmitor National Park (Mon) 265, 365-7, 264 Durrës (Alb) 71-3, 72

E economy Albania 55-6 Croatia 176 Macedonia 286 Elbasan (Alb) 79 electricity 424 Elšani (Mac) 308 email services, see internet access embassies 432 Albania 95 BiH 164 Croatia 254 Kosovo 278-9 Macedonia 328-9 Montenegro 369 Serbia 418-19 emergencies, see also inside front cover Albania 97 BiH 165 Croatia 256 Kosovo 280 Macedonia 329 Montenegro 370 Serbia 420 encephalitis, tickborne 452 environmental issues 46-7 Albania 61 BiH 110 Croatia 180 Kosovo 273 Macedonia 289 Montenegro 341 Serbia 381 ethnicity, see populations EU membership 18, 29, 35 Albania 56 BiH 107 Croatia 169, 176, 180 Macedonia 285-6 Montenegro 338 Serbia 377 Eurovision Song Contest 18, 29-30 events, see festivals & events exchange rates, see inside front cover Exit festival (Ser) 8, 401, 8 Ezerani Bird Sanctuary (Mac) 310

INDEX

itineraries 170 language 455-8 lesbian travellers 255 literature 178 mobile phones 256 money 255-6 music 177-8 national parks 180 newspapers 252 planning 170 population 176 postal services 256 radio 252 religion 176 tax 255 telephone services 256 tipping 256 tourist information 256 travel to/from 257-8 travel within 258-60, 221 vegetarian travellers 179 visas 256-8 visual arts 177 culture 35-6 Albania 56-7, 59 BiH 108-9 Croatia 176 Kosovo 271 Macedonia 286 Montenegro 338 Serbia 377 customs, local 20, 36 Kosovo 272-3 Montenegro 340 Serbia 380 customs regulations 429-30 Croatia 254 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 369 Serbia 418 cycling 426-7, 445-6 Albania 94, 99 BiH 167 Croatia 258 Macedonia 331 Montenegro 372 Serbia 421, 422 Cyclops Hill (Mac) 304

476 I n d e x ( F - I )

INDEX

F fax services Albania 97 Macedonia 329-30 Serbia 420 ferries, see boat travel festivals & events 23, 24 Albania 95 Belgrade (Ser) 390-1 Bitola (Mac) 313 Budva (Mon) 352 Croatia 255 Dragačevo Trumpet Festival (Ser) 414 Dubrovnik (Cro) 248 Durrës (Alb) 72 Exit festival (Ser) 8, 401, 8 Galičnik Wedding (Mac) 299 Gjirokastra (Alb) 89 Herceg Novi (Mon) 342, 344 Kosovo 279 Kotor (Mon) 348 Macedonia 267, 329 Mokra Gora (Ser) 416 Montenegro 369 Motovun (Cro) 209 Muslim festivals 433 Negotino (Mac) 321 Novi Sad (Ser) 400 Ohrid (Mac) 305 Palić (Ser) 405 Pazin (Cro) 208 Rab Town (Cro) 218 Rijeka (Cro) 211 Sarajevo (BiH) 120-1 Serbia 419 Skopje (Mac) 293 Split (Cro) 228 Strumica (Mac) 326 Tirana (Alb) 66 Topola (Ser) 406-7 Varaždin (Cro) 195 Vevčani (Mac) 300 Vršac (Ser) 405-6 Zadar (Cro) 222-3 Zagreb (Cro) 187 film, see cinema Foča (BiH) 146 food 42-5, see also individual locations Albania 59-60 BiH 109-10 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

Croatia 178-9 Kosovo 272-3 Macedonia 287-8 Montenegro 340, 369 Serbia 379-80 forts, see castles Franz Ferdinand, Archduke 114 frescos 41 Fruška Gora (Ser) 267, 402-3, 266

G Gadimë Cave (Kos) 276 galleries, see museums & galleries Galičica National Park (Mac) 308 Galičnik (Mac) 299 Galičnik Wedding 299 gay travellers 432-3 Albania 95 BiH 164 Croatia 255 Kosovo 279 Montenegro 369-70 Serbia 419 geography 45-6 Albania 60 BiH 110 Croatia 179-80 Kosovo 273 Macedonia 288 Montenegro 340-1 Serbia 380 geology 45-6 Gjirokastra (Alb) 8, 88-90, 8 Golem Grad (Mac) 310 Goražde (BiH) 146 Gorni Disan (Mac) 322 Gostilje (Ser) 416 Gračanica Monastery (Kos) 276 Gradačac (BiH) 149 Gradesnica (Mac) 314 Gradina (BiH) 130 Gradište (Mac) 307 Grožnjan (Cro) 210

H Haggadah 120 health 451-3, see also safety insurance 451 internet resources 451 services 451-2 vaccinations 451 heat exhaustion 452 hepatitis A 452 Heraclea Lyncestis (Mac) 313-14 Herceg Novi (Mon) 341-4, 343

Hercegovina (BiH) 131-45, see also Bosnia & Hercegovina hiking 427, 428-9 Albania 93 BiH 129, 130, 160, 163 Croatia 192-3, 236, 253 Macedonia 298, 308, 313, 314, 315, 320, 328 Montenegro 358, 366, 367, 368 Serbia 413, 415, 417 Himara (Alb) 85 history 30-5, see also individual locations Albania 51-6 BiH 102-7 Croatia 170-6 Kosovo 270-1 Macedonia 282-6 Montenegro 334-8 Serbia 374-7 hitching 260, 448 holidays 433 Albania 95 BiH 164-5 Croatia 255 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329 Montenegro 370 Muslim festivals 433 Serbia 419 Hoxha, Enver 33, 34, 53, 54, 55, 66, 88 Hrvatsko Zagorje (Cro) 194-6 Hutovo Blato (BiH) 142 Hvar Island (Cro) 238-40 Hvar Town (Cro) 238-40

I immigration 439 industrial pollution 47 insurance car 447 health 451 travel 433 internet access 433-4, see also individual locations internet resources 24 BiH 165 Croatia 255 health 451 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329 Montenegro 370 Serbia 419 Ionian coast (Alb) 82-90

I n d e x ( I - L ) 477

Islam 37-8, see also religion Bektashi Islam 37, 57 festivals 433 Istria (Cro) 199-210, 265 itineraries 25-8 Albania 49 beaches 28, 28 Belgrade (Ser) 384 BiH 102 Croatia 170 Dubrovnik (Cro) 250 Kosovo 270 lakes 28, 28 Macedonia 282 Montenegro 334 national parks 26, 26 Sarajevo (BiH) 111 Serbia 374 Skopje (Mac) 292 swimming 28, 28 Tirana (Alb) 63 train travel 28, 28 Western Balkans 25, 25 World Heritage sites 27, 27 Zagreb (Cro) 186 Jablanica (Ser) 416 Jahorina (BiH) 129 Jajce (BiH) 154-6, 156 Jovan Dučić 144 Judaism 38

K Kanun, the 59 Kavadarci (Mac) 319-20 kayaking 426 BiH 161-2 Croatia 247-8, 253 Montenegro 342, 368 Serbia 417 King Peter I 32 King Zog I 33, 52-3 Kokino megalithic observatory (Mac) 322 Kolešino (Mac) 327 Konjic (BiH) 131 Konjsko (Mac) 310 Kopački Rit Nature Park (Cro) 197 Kopaonik (Ser) 265, 413-14, 265 Korça (Alb) 79-81 Korčula Island (Cro) 240-2 Korčula Town (Cro) 240-2, 241 Kornati Islands (Cro) 222

Krk Island (Cro) 216-17 Krk Town (Cro) 216-17 Kruja (Alb) 73-4 Kruševo (Mac) 316-17 Ksamil (Alb) 87 Kuklica (Mac) 324 Kumanovo (Mac) 322 Kurbinovo (Mac) 310 Kvarner Gulf (Cro) 210-20

L Lady of the Rock Island (Mon) 345 Lake Dojran (Mac) 327 Lake Koman (Alb) 91-2, 265, 264 Lake Matka (Mac) 297 Lake Ohrid (Mac) 5, 307-9, 307, 5, see also Ohrid Lake Prespa (Mac) 309-11, 307 Lake Skadar National Park (Mon) 360-2 Lake Tikveš (Mac) 320 lakes itineraries 28, 28 landmines 47, 427, 430, see also safety Albania 94 BiH 110, 164 Kosovo 277, 278 languages 454-60 Albanian 95-6, 454-5 Bosnian 165, 455-8 Croatian 455-8 Macedonian 329, 458-60 Montenegrin 370, 455-8 Serbian 419, 455-8 lesbian travellers 432-3 Albania 95 BiH 164 Croatia 255 Kosovo 279 Montenegro 369-70 Serbia 419 Lezha (Alb) 90 literature 38-9, see also books Albania 58 BiH 108 Croatia 178 Kosovo 272 Montenegro 338 Serbia 377-8 littering 47 Ljubanište (Mac) 307 Ljubinje (BiH) 143 Ljubojno (Mac) 310 Llogaraja Pass National Park (Alb) 84

INDEX

J

Kosovo 267, 269-80, 271, 267 accommodation 278 activities 278 architecture 272 arts 272 books 278 border crossings 280 business hours 278 cinema 272 climate 270 costs 270 culture 271 customs, local 272-3 disabilities, travellers with 279-80 embassies 278-9 emergencies 280 environmental issues 273 exchange rates, see inside front cover festivals 279 food 272-3 gay travellers 279 geography 273 history 270-1 holidays 279 internet resources 279 itineraries 270 language 279 lesbian travellers 279 literature 272 maps 279 mobile phones 279 money 279 music 272 national parks 273 newspapers 278 planning 270 population 271 postal services 279 radio 278 religion 271-2 safety 278 telephone services 279 tourist information 279 travel to/from 280 travel within 280 vegetarian travellers 272-3 visas 280 visual arts 272 women travellers 280 Kostela (BiH) 162 Kotor (Mon) 345-9, 347, 268 Kozara National Park (BiH) 161 Kratovo (Mac) 323-4 Kremna (Ser) 416

478 I n d e x ( L- M )

Lokrum Island (Cro) 250 Lopar (Cro) 219-20 Lošinj Islands (Cro) 219 Lovćen National Park (Mon) 6, 357-8, 6 Lukomir (BiH) 130

INDEX

M Macedonia 281-332, 283 accommodation 327 activities 327-8 architecture 286 arts 286-7 books 328 border crossings 330 business hours 328 cinema 286-7 climate 282 costs 282 culture 286 customs regulations 328 dance 287 disabilities, travellers wih 330 economy 286 embassies 328-9 emergencies 329 environmental issues 289 EU membership 285-6 exchange rates, see inside front cover fax services 329-30 festivals 267, 329 food 287-8 geography 288 history 282-6 holidays 329 internet resources 329 itineraries 282 language 329, 458-60 magazines 328 mobile phones 330 money 329 music 287 national parks 289 newspapers 328 planning 282 population 286 postal services 329 radio 328 religion 286 safety 328 telephone services 329-30 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

tourist information 330 travel to/from 330-1 travel within 331-2 TV 328 visas 330 Magarevo (Mac) 315-16 magazines 23-4 Albania 93 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 368 Makarska (Cro) 235-6 Mali Lošinj (Cro) 219 Malovište (Mac) 315 maps BiH 165 Kosovo 279 Montenegro 370 Serbia 419 Mariovo (Mac) 9, 314, 9 Mavrovo National Park (Mac) 265, 298-9 measures 424 medical services 451-2, see also individual locations Međugorje (BiH) 139-41 metric conversions, see inside front cover migration 36 Milošević, Slobodan 34, 35, 105 Mladić, Ratko 106 Mljet Island (Cro) 242-4 mobile phones 436 Albania 97 BiH 166 Croatia 256 Macedonia 330 Montenegro 370 Serbia 420 Mokra Gora (Ser) 416-17 monasteries Cetinje monastery (Mon) 360 Dečani monastery (Kos) 277 Dobrilovina Monastery (Mon) 366 Dobrun Monastery (BiH) 148 Gomionica Monastery (BiH) 160 Gračanica Monastery (Kos) 276 Grgeteg monastery (Ser) 403 Guča Gora (BiH) 154 Jazak (Ser) 403 Krušedol monastery (Ser) 402 Mala Remeta (Ser) 403 Manasija monastery (Ser) 407 Monastery of St Mary (Alb) 83 Monastery of St Nicholas (Alb) 88 Monastery of Sveta BogorodicaEleusa (Mac) 326

Monastery of Sveta Petka (Mac) 310-11 Monastery of Sveti Arhangel Mihail (Mac) 324 Monastery of Sveti Gavril Lesnovski (Mac) 324 Monastery of Sveti Gjorgji (Mac) 321 Monastery of Sveti Joakim Osogovski (Mac) 323 Monastery of Sveti Leontij-Vodoča (Mac) 326 Monastery of Sveti Nikola (Mac) 320 Norcev (Ser) 403 Novo Hopovo (Ser) 402-3 Ostrog Monastery (Mon) 364, 261 Pološki Monastery (Mac) 320 Sopoćani Monastery (Ser) 411 St George Monastery (Ser) 411-12 Studenica Monastery (Ser) 412-13 Sveti Jovan Bigorski monastery 298-9 Sveti Naum (Mac) 307-8 Sveti Pantelejmon monastery (Mac) 293 Treskavec Monastery (Mac) 318 Tvrdoš monastery (BiH) 145 Velika Remeta (Ser) 403 Vrdnik (Ser) 403 money 19-20, 432, 434-5, see also inside front cover Albania 96 BiH 165 Croatia 255-6 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329 Montenegro 370 Serbia 376, 419 moneychangers 434 Albania 96 Croatia 255 Montenegro 333-72, 335 accommodation 367-8 activities 368 architecture 339 arts 338-9 books 368-9 border crossings 371 business hours 369 cinema 338-9 climate 334 costs 334 culture 338 customs, local 340 customs regulations 369

I n d e x ( M ) 479

Croatia 257-8, 259-60 insurance 447 Kosovo 280 Macedonia 330, 331-2 Montenegro 371, 372 Serbia 422-3 Motovun (Cro) 209-10 Mrkonjić-Grad (BiH) 157 Mt Dajti National Park (Alb) 74-5 Mt Kozuf (Mac) 320-1 Mt Tomorri National Park (Alb) 79 Mt Vodno (Mac) 293 Murići (Mon) 361-2 museums & galleries Akademija Fine Arts Gallery, Belgrade (Ser) 385 Albanian National Armaments Museum, Gjirokastra (Alb) 89 Archaeological Museum, Budva (Mon) 350 Archaeological Museum, Durrës (Alb) 71 Archaeological Museum, Pula (Cro) 205 Archaeological Museum, Split (Cro) 228 Archaeological Museum, Tirana (Alb) 66 Archaeological Museum, Zagreb (Cro) 186 Art Museum, Cetinje (Mon) 258 AVNOJ-a Museum, Jacje (BiH) 155 City Museum, Skopje (Mac) 292 City Museum, Zagreb (Cro) 185-6 Croatian Museum of Naïve Art, Zagreb (Cro) 186 Croatian Museum of Tourism, Opatija (Cro) 214 Croatian Natural History Museum, Zagreb (Cro) 186 Dvorac Petrovića, Podgorica (Mon) 362 Ethnographic Museum, Belgrade (Ser) 385 Ethnographic Museum, Berat (Alb) 77 Ethnographic Museum, Gjirokastra (Alb) 89 Ethnographic Museum, Kruja (Alb) 74 Ethnographic Museum, Zagreb (Cro) 186 Gallery of Frescos, Belgrade (Ser) 388

Gallery Nikola Martinovski, Kruševo (Mac) 216-17 Gloria Maris Museum, Osijek (Cro) 197 Hercegovina Museum, Trebinje (BiH) 144 History Museum, Cetinje (Mon) 258 History Museum, Sarajevo (BiH) 119 Ivo Andrić museum, Travnik (BiH) 152 Jewish Museum, Sarajevo (BiH) 115, 118 King Nikola Museum, Cetinje (Mon) 258 King Nikola’s Palace, Bar (Mon) 354 Kosovo Museum, Pristina (Kos) 273 Maršal Tito’s grave, Belgrade (Ser) 390 Meštrović Atelier, Zagreb (Cro) 185 Meštrović Gallery, Split (Cro) 228 Military Museum, Belgrade (Ser) 384 Modern Art Gallery, Subotica (Ser) 404 Modern Gallery, Zagreb (Cro) 186 Museum of Albanian Medieval Art, Korça (Alb) 80 Museum of Church Art, Zadar (Cro) 221 Museum of Contemporary Art, Belgrade (Ser) 390 Museum of Contemporary Art, Skopje (Mac) 293 Museum of Hercegovina, Mostar (BiH) 135 Museum of the History of Serbia, Belgrade (Ser) 388 Museum of Macedonia, Skopje (Mac) 293 Museum Mimara, Zagreb (Cro) 186 Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church, Belgrade (Ser) 385 Museum of Slavonia, Osijek (Cro) 196 Museum of Vojvodina, Novi Sad (Ser) 400 National Art Gallery, Tirana (Alb) 66 National Gallery, Sarajevo (BiH) 119 National Museum, Belgrade (Ser) 385 National Museum, Ohrid (Mac) 304

INDEX

dance 339 disabilities, travellers with 371 embassies 369 emergencies 370 environmental issues 341 EU membership 338 exchange rates, see inside front cover festivals 369 food 340, 369 gay travellers 369-70 geography 340-1 history 334-8 holidays 370 internet resources 370 itineraries 334 language 370, 455-8 lesbian travellers 369-70 literature 338 magazines 368 maps 370 mobile phones 370 money 370 music 339 national parks 341 newspapers 368 planning 334 population 338 postal services 370 radio 368 religion 338 safety 369 telephone services 370 tipping 370 tourist information 370-1 travel to/from 371-2 travel within 372 TV 368 vegetarian travellers 340 visas 371 visual arts 339 women travellers 371 Mostar (BiH) 6, 131-8, 263, 132, 6 accommodation 135-6 drinking 137 entertainment 137 food 136-7 history 131-2 internet access 133 shopping 137 sights 133-5 tourist information 133 travel to/from 137-9 motorcycle travel 446-8 Albania 98, 99 BiH 167, 168

INDEX

480 I n d e x ( M - P )

museums & galleries continued National Museum, Sarajevo (BiH) 119 National Museum of History, Tirana (Alb) 65-6 National Museum of Independence, Vlora (Alb) 83 National Museum of Montenegro, Cetinje (Mon) 358 Negotino Museum, Negotino (Mac) 321 Neolithic Settlement Museum, Gradište (Mac) 307 Nikola Tesla Museum, Belgrade (Ser) 389 Njegoš Museum, Cetinje (Mon) 259 Old Bridge Museum, Mostar (BiH) 134 Onufri Museum, Berat (Alb) 77 Open-Air Museum, Sirogojno (Ser) 416 Podgorica Museum & Gallery (Mon) 262 Sarajevo 1878–1918 Museum, Sarajevo (BiH) 115 Skanderbeg Museum, Kruja (Alb) 74 Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters, Zagrab (Cro) 186 Town Museum, Varaždin (Cro) 194 Tunnel Museum, Sarajevo (BiH) 120 music 40-1 Albania 58 BiH 109 Croatia 177-8 Kosovo 272 Macedonia 287 Montenegro 339 Serbia 378-9 Muslim festivals 433

N national parks Albania 61 Balkans Peace Park 61, 92, 341 BiH 110 Biogradska Gora National Park (Mon) 367 Blidinje (BiH) 110 Brijuni Islands National Park (Cro) 207-8 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

Croatia 180 Ðerdap National Park (Ser) 381 Durmitor National Park (Mon) 265, 365-7, 264 Galičica National Park (Mac) 308 Hutovo Blato (BiH) 142 Kopački Rit Nature Park (Cro) 197 Kornati National Park (Cro) 222 Kosovo 273 Kozara National Park (BiH) 161 Lake Skadar National Park (Mon) 360-2 Llogaraja Pass National Park (Alb) 84 Lovćen National Park (Mon) 6, 357-8, 6 Macedonia 289 Mavrovo National Park (Mac) 265, 298-9 Mljet Island (Cro) 242-4 Montenegro 341 Mt Dajti National Park (Alb) 74-5 Mt Tomorri National Park (Alb) 79 Pelister National Park (Mac) 315-16 Plitvice Lakes National Park (Cro) 224-5 Šara National Park (Kos) 273 Serbia 381 Sutjeska National Park (BiH) 146 naturism 252, 265 Negotino (Mac) 321 Neum (BiH) 142 newspapers Albania 93 BiH 163 Croatia 252 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 368 Serbia 418 Niš (Ser) 408-9 Novi Pazar (Ser) 410-12 Novi Sad (Ser) 399-402, 400

O Ohrid (Mac) 5, 301-6, 302, 5, see also Lake Ohrid walking tour 304-5, 305 Ohrid trout 288 Old Bridge, Mostar (BiH) 6, 133-4, 263, 6 Opatija (Cro) 214-15 Orlijani (BiH) 162 Orthodox Christianity 37, see also religion Osijek (Cro) 196-8

Ostrog Monastery (Mon) 364, 261 Ottoman Empire 31-2 Albania 51-2 BiH 103-4 Kosovo 270 Macedonia 284 Montenegro 336 Serbia 374-7

P painting 41-2, see also visual arts Palić (Ser) 405 paragliding BiH 129 Macedonia 308, 328 Montenegro 342, 350, 352 passports 439 Pazin (Cro) 208-9 Peć (Kos) 276-7 Peja (Kos) 276-7 Pelister National Park (Mac) 315-16 Perast (Mon) 344-5 Peštani (Mac) 307 Peter I, King 32 Petrovac (Mon) 353-4 photography 41-2, 435 pirates 357 Pirot (Ser) 409-10 planning 19-24, 432, see also holidays, itineraries Albania 49 BiH 102 Croatia 170 Kosovo 270 Macedonia 282 Montenegro 334 Serbia 374 plants 46 Albania 60 BiH 110 Croatia 180 Macedonia 11, 288-9, 11 Montenegro 341 Serbia 380-1 Plitvice Lakes National Park (Cro) 224-5 Pliva Lakes (BiH) 156 Plivsko Jezero (BiH) 156 Počitelj (BiH) 141-2 Podgorica (Mon) 263, 362-4 Podmilačje (BiH) 156-7 Podmočani (Mac) 310 Podvelež (BiH) 139 poetry 38, 377-8 Pogradec (Alb) 79 poliomyelitis 452

I n d e x ( P - S ) 481

Q Qeparo (Alb) 85

R Rab Island (Cro) 217-20 Rab Town (Cro) 217-19 rabies 452 Radimlja (BiH) 143 radio Albania 93 BiH 163 Croatia 252 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 368 Serbia 418 rafting 427 BiH 102, 131, 146, 159, 160, 161-2, 163 Croatia 247-8 Montenegro 365-6 Serbia 265, 413, 415, 417, 265 rakija 43 Rapeš (Mac) 314

religion 37-8 Albania 57 BiH 107-8 Croatia 176 Kosovo 271-2 Macedonia 286 Montenegro 338 Serbia 377 Resen (Mac) 310 restaurants, see food, individual locations Rijeka (Cro) 210-14, 212 Rijeka Crnojevića (Mon) 361 rock climbing, see climbing Rovinj (Cro) 202-4 Rožanstvo (Ser) 416 Rusinovo (Mac) 324

S safety 430-2, see also emergencies, landmines Albania 64, 94-5 BiH 164 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 369 Serbia 418 Salona (Cro) 233-5, 234 Samobor (Cro) 192-4 Sarajevo (BiH) 12, 110-29, 113, 116-17, 12 accommodation 121-3 drinking 125-6 entertainment 126 festivals 120-1 food 123-5 history 110-11 internet access 111 itineraries 111 medical services 112 shopping 126-7 sights 112-20 tourist information 112 tours 120 travel to/from 127 travel within 127-9 Sarajevo Haggadah 120 Saranda (Alb) 86-7 scams 431 scuba diving, see diving sculpture 41, see also visual arts senior travellers 432 Serbia 373-423, 375 accommodation 417 activities 417

architecture 379 arts 377-9 books 417-18 border crossings 421 business hours 418 cinema 378 climate 374 costs 374 courses 418 culture 377 customs, local 380 customs regulations 418 disabilities, travellers with 420 embassies 418-19 emergencies 420 environmental issues 381 EU membership 377 exchange rates, see inside front cover fax services 420 festivals 419 food 379-80 gay travellers 419 geography 380 history 374-7 holidays 419 internet resources 419 itineraries 374 language 419, 455-8 lesbian travellers 419 literature 377-8 maps 419 mobile phones 420 money 376, 419 music 378-9 national parks 381 newspapers 418 planning 374 population 377 postal services 419 radio 418 religion 377 safety 418 telephone services 419-20 tourist information 420 tours 420 travel to/from 420-2 travel within 422-3 TV 418 vegetarian travellers 380 visas 420 visual arts 379 women travellers 420 sevdah 109 Shëngjin (Alb) 90 Shkodra (Alb) 90-1

INDEX

politics 36 pollution, industrial 47 populations 35-6 Albania 56 BiH 107 Croatia 176 Kosovo 271 Macedonia 286 Montenegro 338 Serbia 377 Poreč (Cro) 199-202, 200 Porto Palermo (Alb) 85 postal services 435 Albania 96 BiH 165-6 Croatia 256 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329 Montenegro 370 Serbia 419 Potočari (BiH) 150 Pretor (Mac) 310 Prilep (Mac) 317-18 Princip, Gavrilo 114 Pristina (Kos) 10, 263, 273-6, 274, 10 Prizren (Kos) 277-8 Prusac (BiH) 154 Pula (Cro) 204-7, 205 Pyramid (BiH) 150

INDEX

482 I n d e x ( S - T )

Šibenik (Cro) 225-7 Sirogojno (Ser) 416 Skanderbeg 51 skiing 19, 265, 427, 265 Albania 79 BiH 102, 129-30, 154, 163 Kosovo 278 Macedonia 298, 315, 317, 320, 324, 327 Montenegro 334, 365-6 Serbia 374, 413, 414-15, 417 Skopje (Mac) 263, 289-97, 290, 263 accommodation 293-4 drinking 295 entertainment 295-6 festivals 293 food 294-5 history 289, 290 internet access 291 itineraries 292 medical services 291 shopping 296 sights 292-3 tourist information 292 travel to/from 296-7 travel within 297 Slavićka (BiH) 160-1 Slavonia (Cro) 196-8 Smajkići (BiH) 139 Smederevo (Ser) 398 Smolari (Mac) 327 snowboarding, see also skiing Montenegro 366 Sokolac (BiH) 162 Solin (Cro) 233-5, 234 solo travellers 435-6 Split (Cro) 227-33, 229, 230 Srebrenica (BiH) 150 Srebrenik (BiH) 149 Sremski Karlovci (Ser) 403 St George’s Island (Mon) 345 Stara Maslina (Mon) 355 Staravina (Mac) 314 Stari Bar (Mon) 354-5 Staro Nagoričane (Mac) 322 stećci 109 Stefan Dušan 31 Stenje (Mac) 310 Stobi (Mac) 322 Stolac (BiH) 142-3 Strossmayer, Josip 32 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages

Struga (Mac) 300-1 Strumica (Mac) 325-6 Stublo (Ser) 416 Subotica (Ser) 404-5 sustainable travel 21, 428-9, 442 Croatia 196, 203, 206, 219, 237, 243 Macedonia 288, 289 Montenegro 342, 362-4, 369 Sutjeska National Park (BiH) 146 Sveti Naum (Mac) 307-8 Sveti Stefan (Mon) 12, 353, 12 swimming, see beaches

T Tara Canyon (BiH) 146, 265 Tara Canyon (Mon) 365 tax Croatia 255 telephone codes 436 Albania 97 BiH 166 Croatia 256 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329-30 Montenegro 370 Serbia 420 telephone services 436 Albania 97 BiH 166 Croatia 256 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 329-30 Montenegro 370 Serbia 419-20 Tešanj (BiH) 152 Tesla, Nikola 389 Tetovo (Mac) 297-8 theft 431, see also safety Theth (Alb) 92-3, 267 tickborne encephalitis 452 Tikveš Wine Region (Mac) 318-22 time 424, 436 tipping 434-5 Albania 96 Croatia 256 Montenegro 370 Tirana (Alb) 62-70, 263, 64, 263 accommodation 66-7 drinking 68 entertainment 68-9 festivals 66 food 67-8 history 62 internet access 63

itineraries 63 medical services 63 shopping 69 sights 65-6 tourist information 63-4 travel to/from 69-70 travel within 70 Tito, Josip Broz 33-4, 42, 105, 155, 174, 208, 337, 376, 407 Tito’s Grave (Ser) 390 Tivat (Mon) 349 Toše Proeski 316 tourist information 436, see also individual locations Albania 97 BiH 166 Croatia 256 Kosovo 279 Macedonia 330 Montenegro 370-1 Serbia 420 train travel Albania 100 BiH 167, 168 Croatia 258, 260 itineraries 28, 28 Kosovo 280 Macedonia 330-1, 332 Montenegro 372 Serbia 422, 423 to/from the Western Balkans 442-3 within the Western Balkans 448-50 travel to/from the Western Balkans 21, 439-45 travel within the Western Balkans 445-50 travellers cheques 20, 435 Albania 63, 96 BiH 165 Macedonia 325 Travnik (BiH) 9, 152-3, 9 Trebinje (BiH) 143-8 trekking, see hiking Trogir (Cro) 235, 267, 267 trout, Ohrid 288 Trpejca (Mac) 307 Trsteno (Cro) 250 Tuzla (BiH) 148-9 TV Albania 93 BiH 163 Macedonia 328 Montenegro 368 Serbia 418 typhoid 452

© Lonely Planet Publications I n d e x ( U - Z ) 483

W

Ulcinj (Mon) 356-7 Umoljani (BiH) 130 Una Valley (BiH) 161-2 unexploded ordinance, see landmines

walking, see hiking water, drinking 452 waterfalls Jacje (BiH) 155 Kolešino Waterfalls (Mac) 327 Kostelski Buk (BiH) 162 Kravice Waterfalls (BiH) 142 Plitvice Lakes National Park (Cro) 224-5 Smolare Waterfall (Mac) 327 weather, see climate websites, see internet resources weights 424 white-water rafting, see rafting wildlife, see animals, birds, plants wine 44 Albania 59 BiH 131 Croatia 179, 240 Macedonia 287, 318-22 Montenegro 340 Serbia 380 wineries Badev Winery (Mac) 320 Bovin Winery (Mac) 321 Çobo Winery (Alb) 78 Disan Hills Winery (Mac) 319, 322 Elenov Winery (Mac) 322 Grkov Winery (Mac) 320 Popova Kula Winery (Mac) 322 Skopje area (Mac) 287 Stankela Winery (BiH) 140 Tikveš Winery (Mac) 287, 319 Winery Dudin (Mac) 321-2 women in the Western Balkans 36 Albania 56 women travellers 438, see also safety Albania 97-8 health 453 Kosovo 280 Montenegro 371 Serbia 420 World Heritage sites Berat (Alb) 75-8, 76 Butrint (Alb) 87-8 Cathedral of St James, Šibenik (Cro) 226 Dečani monastery (Kos) 277 Diocletian’s Palace, Split (Cro) 228 Dubrovnik (Cro) 7, 244-51, 245, 246, 7

V vacations, see holidays Varaždin (Cro) 194-6 vegan travellers 45 vegetarian travellers 44 Albania 60 BiH 109 Croatia 179 Kosovo 272-3 Montenegro 340 Serbia 380 Veli Lošinj (Cro) 219 Veljusa (Mac) 326 Vevčani (Mac) 299-300 Vilina Vlas (BiH) 147-8 violence, see safety Virpazar (Mon) 361 Vis Island (Cro) 237 visas 437, see also passports Albania 97 BiH 166 Croatia 256-7 Kosovo 280 Macedonia 330 Montenegro 371 Serbia 420 Višegrad (BiH) 146-7 Visoko (BiH) 150-1 visual arts 41-2 Albania 57 Croatia 177 Kosovo 272 Montenegro 339 Serbia 379 vladikas 336-7 Vladimirovo (Mac) 324 Vlašić (BiH) 154 Vlora (Alb) 82-4 Vodoča (Mac) 326 Vojvodina (Ser) 399-406 Volosko (Cro) 215-16 volunteering 437-8 Voskopoja (Alb) 81-2 Vranduk (BiH) 151 Vranje (Ser) 410 Vrapčiste (Mac) 298 Vrbas Canyons (BiH) 160 Vuno (Alb) 85

Durmitor National Park (Mon) 265, 365-7, 264 Euphrasian Basilica, Poreč (Cro) 199-200 Gjirokastra (Alb) 8, 88-90, 8 itineraries 27, 27 Kotor (Mon) 345-9, 347, 268 Mehmet Paša Sokolović Bridge, Višegrad (BiH) 147 Ohrid (Mac) 5, 301-6, 302, 5 Old Bridge, Mostar (BiH) 6, 133-4, 263, 6 Orthodox Church of the Virgin of Leviša, Prizren (Kos) 277 Patriarchate of Peć (Kos) 277 Plitvice Lakes National Park (Cro) 224-5 Sopoćani Monastery (Ser) 411 Split (Cro) 227-33, 229, 230 Studenica Monastery (Ser) 412-13 Trogir (Cro) 235, 267, 267 wrestling 298

Y yachting 427 Croatia 253-4 Montenegro 348

Z Zadar (Cro) 8, 220-4, 263, 222, 8, 263 Zagreb (Cro) 11, 180-92, 182-3, 11 accommodation 187-8 drinking 190 entertainment 190-1 festivals 187 food 188-9 history 181 internet access 181 itineraries 186 medical services 184 shopping 191 sights 185-7 tourist information 184 tours 187 travel to/from 191 travel within 191-2 Zavala (BiH) 143 Zelenkovac (BiH) 157-8 Zemun (Ser) 397-8 Zenica (BiH) 151 Zlatibor (Ser) 265, 414-16 Zog I, King 33, 52-3

INDEX

U

484

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