UNIT B2 Assist with facial skin care treatments
Facial skin goes through many changes over the years. Our faces are under constant pressure from the weather and dirt in the environment, and also undergo a natural ageing process. Only some of us are lucky enough to have a naturally clear complexion that will not become too lined as we get older. We can cover up other parts of our body if they are less than perfect, but this is not so with our faces. Our faces are on show all the time and it is therefore important that we look after them. Nothing beats regular facials when it comes to keeping our skin glowing and healthy. Facial treatments are essential for thorough cleansing of the skin and increased cell renewal. In this unit you will learn how to assist with facial skin care treatments. You will also learn how to prepare for treatments and about ways to improve the skin through the correct use of skin care products. At all times during facial skin care treatments you will also need to follow effective health, safety and hygiene procedures.
In this unit you will learn how to: Maintain safe and effective methods of working when assisting with facial treatments Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients Carry out facial treatments Provide aftercare advice
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Here are some key terms you will meet in this unit:
Contra-actions – unwanted reactions to a treatment
Complexion – skin tone, texture and colour Pores – tiny openings in the skin that produce oil to moisturise the skin Effleurage – to flow, so these are stroking, smooth massage movements
Comedone extractor – a tool for blackhead removal Petrissage – to knead, so these are circling, kneading massage movements Moisturise – soften and rehydrate by the use of creams
Rehydrate – add water or moisture Eczema – a dry skin condition that shows up as rough, flaky skin Tapotement – a stimulating form of massage using cupping or pinching movements
Dehydration – lacking in water
Blemishes – skin marks
Astringent – strong solution to cleanse the skin
Contra-indication – a condition that makes the client unsuitable for treatment such as skin infections or high blood pressure
Client consultation – question-and-answer sessions with a client that are designed to find out information about them
Allergies – reactions, sensitivity
Conjunctivitis – an eye infection
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B2 Assist with facial skin care treatments
Maintain safe and effective methods of working when assisting with facial treatments (1) As with all beauty therapies, skin care treatments involve close work with the client and require close attention from you. Safe working practices are very important and you must make sure you follow much higher standards of hygiene than you might ever think of doing at home. You should also know that some facial treatments use electrical equipment, and therefore when you are assisting a therapist you need to be able to recognise safe working methods and follow instructions from the therapist.
The work area Many different products, tools and pieces of equipment are needed for a facial treatment and you will need to set up your work area with these items before you bring your client to the treatment room. These items are listed and explained on pages 98 – 101. The most important thing to remember is that when carrying out or assisting with a facial treatment, you need to be both safe and effective. This means that your work area must always be: organised – nothing forgotten, all equipment and tools on a trolley, set up in the order of when it will be used also helps easy to reach – you will not have to overstretch to reach it or walk across the room hygienic – everything cleaned, disinfected and sterilised, and your couch or chair has a protective cover. Good organisation with careful consideration of your client’s needs is the key to successful preparation and a well thought out workspace for skin care treatments.
Get up and go! Take two or three photographs of work area set-ups using your mobile phone or digital camera. Upload them to a computer and see how many mistakes there are and which is the best prepared work area. Discuss your findings with your group. You could also insert the photos in a PowerPoint presentation so it is easy for the whole group to look at and make comments on.
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Maintain safe and effective methods of working when assisting with facial treatments
Sterilisation and cleaning of skin care tools and equipment As for any salon treatment, you need to maintain accepted industry hygiene practices throughout a facial treatment. Following the correct hygiene methods will prevent cross-infection, which is when germs or bacteria are transferred from one person to other, sometimes with nasty results such as skin and eye infections. Unit G20 explains in detail how germs and bacteria can be passed on during treatments and what you should do to prevent this from happening, so refer back to pages 20 – 21. The table below shows how cross-infection could occur during a facial treatment and will help you to understand what hygiene means in practical terms for this particular treatment. Stage of the facial treatment
Unhygienic practices that could lead to cross-infection
Preparing to treat the client and/or during the whole of the treatment
Completing a treatment on one client and then carrying straight on to the next client without washing your hands, or going to the toilet during the treatment and returning to the client without washing your hands
Removing blackheads
Not sterilising the blackhead extractor
Applying a mask
Not washing and sterilising the mask brush
Applying moisturiser
Using your fingers instead of a disposable spatula to scoop out the cream from the pot, meaning that after a few treatments the cream is full of germs from different clients
Facial treatments use quite a lot of disposable products such as cotton wool, tissues, spatulas, mask sponges, orange sticks and couch roll. Non-disposable items need to be prepared carefully for use. Equipment such as steamers, trolleys and magnifying lamps should be wiped over with disinfectant before and after use and metal tools such as blackhead extractors need to be sterilised. Mask brushes should be washed in warm soapy water, left to air dry and then placed in an ultraviolet cabinet. All skincare products should be removed from their containers using a spatula or orange stick.
Top tip
Do not scoop out creams with your fingers, as this contaminates the whole pot. Always use a clean spatula.
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B2 Assist with facial skin care treatments
Maintain safe and effective methods of working when assisting with facial treatments (2) Maintaining hygiene throughout Hygiene is not something that you only need to think about before beginning a treatment. Throughout any treatment, you must ensure that you maintain the same high standards. This applies to the tools, equipment and products that you use, and also to your own personal hygiene. Remember the following rules. If you sneeze or cough you must cover your mouth and turn away from the client and then go and wash your hands. If you blow your nose, wash your hands. Don’t put fingers in pots and containers. Keep your work area tidy. Throw away used tissues and cotton wool immediately in a nearby foot pedal bin.
Get up and go! Make a checklist of how your skin and make-up should look so that a client will not be put off, but will instead feel confident that she is being treated by a person who knows what she is doing.
Leaving the work area clean and tidy Remember that a tidy and clean work area is not only important for health and safety, it also shows that the salon is professional and run properly. A dirty, untidy room is an instant turn-off for any client because it demonstrates a lack of care and hygiene. After you have finished the treatment and your client has left, you must clear away all of your tools and equipment to leave your work area clean and tidy and ready for the next client. This will include: wiping over trolleys, couches, bins and stools with disinfectant washing facial tools and equipment putting bedding in to be laundered.
Posture and positioning while working For you to be able to carry out a professional treatment and for the treatment to be enjoyable for the client, it is important that you are both comfortable.
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Maintain safe and effective methods of working when assisting with facial treatments
A facial treatment is typically carried out while the client lies on a comfortable couch. The client may lie completely flat or semi-inclined and must be positioned comfortably. Your client should be able to remain relaxed during the treatment without having to twist or move so that you can reach her. For you, bad posture will cause physical aches and pains. In addition, the treatment will probably not be as good because it has been carried out in an awkward position. You will need to decide whether you will stand or sit behind the couch. It depends on: the height and angle of the couch – whether it is flat or sloping your height and whether you can reach the client if you sit down. Adjust the height of the couch so that you don’t have to reach too far up or down, and make sure that all the equipment and tools you need are within easy reach. It is very important that you do not overstretch your neck and back to reach tools or the client’s face because you will end up with a long-term back problem. Overstretching will also affect the muscles and veins in your legs and could possibly cause varicose veins over time.
Top tip
When standing for long periods of time, move a little to keep the circulation going. For example, every now and then: yy move from one foot to the other yy bend the knee back a few times, then repeat on the other foot.
Environmental conditions Lighting Lighting must be bright and clear for the skin inspection, but soft and relaxing for the rest of the facial treatment. A light that can be dimmed is ideal, along with a magnifying lamp for inspection work.
Ambience This means the atmosphere or mood that is created within the treatment room or salon. This is important because the aim is to get the client to relax and enjoy her treatment and the whole experience. Relaxing music, pleasant-smelling oils and scented candles can all act to create a favourable atmosphere.
Heating and ventilation The facial treatment area needs to be warm and inviting. It is usual during a facial for a client to become cold. This is because when they relax their body temperature can drop. For this reason it is necessary to have covers that can be placed on the client, such as a blanket or duvet, as well as keeping the temperature of the room fairly warm. Thermostatically controlled central heating is the best, as heaters that you need to turn on and off when needed are not very efficient.
Inspect the client’s skin under a bright light
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Memory jogger
1 What sort of lighting is needed to carry out facial treatments? 2 Why is posture important when carrying out a treatment? 3 How can relaxing affect a client’s temperature? 4 What is the best form of heating in a treatment room?
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B2 Assist with facial skin care treatments
Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients (1) Before beginning any skin care treatment, you need to make sure that both you and the client are well prepared. You will need to chat to your client about why she would like a facial, record the client’s contact details and information about her skin and her home skin care routine, and carry out a simple analysis to help you to decide the skin type, identify any problems and be able to plan a treatment suitable for the client. However, the first step before collecting your client and bringing her to the treatment room is to set up your work area with all the materials that you will need. These are: basics – the disposable products, laundry and workspace requirements tech tools – the tools, such as tweezers and scissors, that you will need products – all the creams and lotions needed for the treatment.
What you need to carry out a facial skin care treatment
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Basics When setting up for a facial skin care treatment, make sure you have all the basics to hand. Item
Purpose
Dampened cotton wool
Cotton wool squares: for removing cleanser and putting on toner. They need to be large enough to wrap around your first two fingers.
How to prepare dampened cotton wool squares: yy Cut squares approximately 80 cm2 in size from a cotton wool roll. yy Take about four to six squares and hold them between the palms of your hands under a running tap. When they are soaked through, squeeze out the water so that they are only damp and not dripping. yy Peel back thin layers from your thick pad of cotton wool. You should have about 16–20 pads. These are your facial pads for removing and applying products.
Cotton wool half moons: these are placed under the bottom eyelashes, to protect the skin under the eyes from the make-up that is being cleaned off. Eye pads (circles or squares): these rest on the eye while using the magnifying lamp for skin inspection or blackhead removal. They can be soaked in witch hazel to soothe the eyes while the client is wearing a face mask. Dry cotton wool
To cover the tip of an orange stick for removing eye make-up.
Split tissues
To blot excess toner or moisturiser. Tissues are normally two-ply – this means that each tissue is made up of two very thin layers. For the purpose of beauty treatments, however, tissues are split as this makes them more economical to use and easier to curve around the shape of the face.
Sponges
These can be used with warm water to remove mask products from the skin. However, they are not easy to clean and sterilise. They need to be washed in very hot soapy water, dried thoroughly and then placed in an ultraviolet sterilising cabinet. The other option is for a salon to charge enough for a facial so that the sponge can be given to the client at the end of her treatment. Otherwise, it is best to use damp cotton wool squares for mask removal.
Towels
You will need one hand towel to dry your own hands during the treatment, one medium-sized towel for placing across the client’s chest, and one large towel for covering her body during the treatment (if a blanket is not used).
Blanket
In the winter months, a honeycomb blanket may be needed to keep the client warm during the treatment.
Fitted couch sheet
To protect the couch from marks and product spills during a treatment.
Couch roll
This is used to cover the fitted couch sheet so that it does not need to be washed after each treatment. It is also used to protect the towel lying over the client’s chest, and the pillow and the headband from skin care and mask products.
Headband or turban
This is used to protect the client’s hair from the products and to prevent her hair from getting in the way of the treatment.
Gown
As the client needs to remove her top clothing, you may need to give her a gown to wear to prevent any embarrassment.
Waste bin
A pedal bin with a lid is best for hygiene purposes, as you can open it without touching it with your hands.
Sterilising jar
This should be filled with antiseptic or disinfectant solution, so that small metal tools such as blackhead extractors and tweezers can be placed in it during the treatment. The solution will help to keep germ levels down, but it will not destroy germs completely. The solution should be changed after every client.
Dishes
Small plastic or metal dishes are needed to hold cotton wool and tissues, as well as the client’s jewellery.
Top tip
Top tip
Each salon has its own way of preparing a client for a treatment, so you will need to find out how your workplace sets up, for example, whether they use sheets and blankets, or towels.
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Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients (2) Potions When setting up for a facial skin care treatment, you need to make sure that you have different types of products to suit different skin types. You will learn how to determine a client’s skin type on page 106. Product
Purpose
Types
Eye make-up remover
These are mild cleansing products that dissolve eye make-up so that it can be easily wiped off without rubbing the eyes.
Eye make-up remover is available as an oil, lotion or gel. Some remove waterproof make-up.
Cleansers
To remove old make-up.
Cream – this thick, creamy cleanser is used for dry or mature skin types. It dissolves make-up quickly.
To clean dirt, dust and grime from the skin and pores. To remove oil and dead skin cells.
Milk – this is a thin, runny cleanser that can be used on most skin types except very dry skin. It is ideal for young or normal skin types, but is not very good at removing heavy or waterproof make-up. Lotion – this is similar in thickness to a milk cleanser but includes ingredients to help spotty and combination skins, which are usually found in younger clients. Facial washes – these can be liquids, gels or lotions. They are gently rubbed into the skin with some water to make a lather. Facial washes can be used on any skin as long as moisturiser is applied afterwards, as the skin can feel quite tight. Facial washes are especially good for men and people who like to feel freshly washed.
Toners
To remove any left-over cleanser from the skin. To dissolve oil. To refresh and cool the skin.
Toners come in different strengths and are chosen depending on the skin type. The main ingredients are water, alcohol, colour and perfume. The greater the alcohol content, the stronger the toner. Toners for oily problem skins are called astringents and have the highest alcohol content.
To tighten the skin and pores.
Face masks*
Face masks are usually applied towards the end of a facial, after the skin has been cleansed, steamed and massaged. A mask should never be applied to skin that has not been thoroughly cleansed. Depending on the ingredients, face masks can: yy yy yy yy yy yy
Moisturisers
deep clean the skin and pores remove oil and dead skin cells deeply moisturise and nourish the skin tighten the pores soften fine lines soothe sensitive skins.
Setting – these masks are usually made of clay powder. They are mixed with distilled water or toner to make a paste that can be painted on the skin with a mask brush. Non-setting – these masks can be creams or gels in a tube or pot. Specialised – these are nourishing warm oil masks or deeply moisturising paraffin wax masks. Food – just as the name says, these face masks can be made using ingredients from your own fridge at home.
To soften and protect the skin’s surface.
As with cleansers, moisturisers can be:
To rehydrate the skin.
yy creams for dry skins yy lotions for oily skins yy milks for young, normal or sensitive skins.
To help the application of make-up by providing a smooth base.
* For Level 1 you only need to know how to use a ready-made non-setting face mask. However, it is helpful if you have a basic knowledge of the other types that you might see being used in the salon.
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Get up and go! Try out these recipes for food masks. For dry skin Mash avocado, add egg yolk and mix until creamy. Apply to the face with a spatula. Leave for 10–15 minutes, then rinse off. For oily skin Mix oatmeal and honey together, then apply to the face with a spatula. Leave for 10–15 minutes, then rinse off. When using food ingredients, you should use the masks as soon as you have made them, as they can go off very quickly. Only use eggs with the Lion mark.
Tech tools When setting up for a facial skin care treatment, you need to prepare all the tools you will need. Item
Purpose
Spatula
A spatula is a wide wooden stick that is used to scoop out cream or lotion from pots. Fingers should never be used, as this is very unhygienic and could result in cross-infection. A spatula is also used to tuck the client’s hair into a headband instead of your fingers.
Orange sticks
These are made of orange wood, which is slightly bendy. One end is pointed and the other end is shaped like a hoof. Both ends of the orange stick are coated in cotton wool for hygiene purposes, as the cotton wool can be removed and thrown away after use. The cotton wool softens the tip for safety when cleaning around the eyes.
Comedone extractor
This loop-end tool is designed to remove blackheads. It is pressed onto a blackhead, then steady, gentle pressure is applied. If the blackhead is ready, its contents will pop out.
Mask brush
This is usually a strong bristle brush that is used to paint the mask on to the skin. Some brushes are fan shaped. They are very hard to sterilise completely, so care must be taken to wash them thoroughly with hot soapy water, leave them to dry and then place them in an ultraviolet sterilising cabinet for the recommended time. Alternatively, a disposable spatula can be used to apply some masks.
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Memory jogger
1 Moisturisers are used to: A Hydrate the skin B Tone the skin C Wash the skin D Exfoliate the skin 2 Give three types of face masks that can be used. 3 The best type of cleanser for oily to combination skins is: A Milk B Lotion C Cream D Facial wash 4 How does eye make-up remover work to remove eye make-up? 5 List three tech tools that you will need to set up for a facial.
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Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients (3) Client consultation Planning and preparing your treatment will always involve a client consultation. Until you have talked to the client about why she has come to the salon for a facial and assessed her skin type and any problems, it will not be possible for you to decide which products and techniques to use on your client. Client consultation involves the following three methods: q uestioning and recording information visual analysis m anual analysis – this is when you feel the smoothness, softness, firmness and hydration of the client’s skin.
Questioning Carrying out a client consultation
Top tip
At first you will watch and learn from the therapist while she is carrying out a consultation. Eventually you will have gained enough experience to carry out the consultation yourself under the supervision of the therapist.
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Clients will want facials for many different reasons. Depending on their reasons, this will help to shape the type of facial that should be offered to them and the techniques used. For relaxation and a feeling of well-being To help clear spots and blemishes
Reasons why a client might want a facial
To add moisture to dry or dehydrated skin To reduce the oil on greasy skin Reasons for a facial treatment
It is therefore very important that you ask the client about her wishes and needs from the facial and listen and respond carefully. Sitting down to talk with the client about what she wants will also give you the opportunity to ask her about her skin and any problem areas, as well as the skin care routine that she follows at home.
Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients
FACIAL CONSULTATION CARD DATE 12/10/10
CLIENT’S NAME Miss
ADDRESS 14
DATE OF BIRTH 26/08/78
Willow Crescent, Newtown N01 3JA
TELEPHONE NUMBER (H) 0208
976 1133
(W)
Nadia Shah
0207 612 1060
CONDITION OF SKIN ON INSPECTION
Clear complexion, fine lines around the eyes, a few broken capillaries on cheek area. Feels slightly dry. CONTRA-INDICATIONS/CONDITIONS
No contra-indications. Comedones around nose and chin. PRODUCTS USED
Nourishing Nature’s range for dry skin. HOMECARE ADVICE
Drink more water to rehydrate the skin. Use sunscreen and exfoliate weekly. PRODUCT SALES
Nourishing Nature’s trial pack for dry skin. COMMENTS
Client was very relaxed and pleased with how her skin felt. Has re-booked for a month’s time. CLIENT SIGNATURE
RECORD OF TREATMENTS DATE
TREATMENT
THERAPIST
12/10/10
Facial
Sarah Walker
A typical consultation card for a facial treatment
While you question the client, you need to start filling in a client consultation card with the information that the client gives you. An example of a consultation card for a facial skin care treatment is shown above. Some of the information will be filled in later, after you have studied the skin, and some when you have completed the treatment, but all of the information you need is included in the diagram on page 104 for easy reference. Have a look at Unit B1 Prepare and maintain salon treatment work areas to refresh your memory about why it is important to record the information.
Get up and go! Design a simple flow chart showing the stages of the consultation that you can use to jog your memory. Display it on a postcard so that it will fit on your trolley next to you. Remember to laminate it so that you protect it from spills and splashes.
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B2 Assist with facial skin care treatments
Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients (4) Recording information the client’s name and date of birth
the date
her address
the results of her skin analysis
her telephone numbers advice given to the client
You need to record any contra-indications you notice the products used during the treatment
any products you sell to the client any comments you have based on the treatment
your name
Information you need to record for a facial skin care treatment
Top tips
yy Name – there could be two clients with the same surname, so to avoid confusion, make sure you always write down both the client’s first name and surname. yy Address – remember to include the postcode. yy Telephone number – one telephone number is not enough. If you need to call a client at short notice to tell her that you have to cancel her appointment and you have her home phone number but she is at work, you will not be able to get in touch, so always ask for a home number and a work or mobile number. yy Date of birth – you may need to find out your client’s date of birth, as if she is under the age of 16 a parent or guardian must be present throughout the treatment. Also the parent or guardian must sign the consultation to agree for the treatment to go ahead – this is called giving consent.
Visual analysis After talking to the client and noting down the information you need to record, you then need to study the client’s skin visually. This should be done in good light so that you are able to see the skin’s condition and texture and includes finding out about: skin type skin condition contra-indications.
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Skin types and conditions Deciding on a client’s skin type is essential before you can decide on the best treatment for her skin. There are four main skin types, and each of the four skin types may also have other characteristics that are important for you to note. normal
dry Skin types
oily
combination
The four main skin types
sensitive – skin that easily becomes red, itchy and very dry
mature – older skin Skin can also be
dehydrated – skin lacking in water
congested – skin that has blocked pores and blemishes
Characteristics that each of the four skin types may display
Get up and go! Make some key cards to help you remember the different types of skin and the characteristics of each. Write ‘normal skin’ on one card, then turn it over and write a description of the characteristics of normal skin on the back. Make a card like this for each of the skin types. You can use these to test each other on skin types and conditions.
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Memory jogger
1 What are the three types of consultation techniques? 2 List four pieces of information that you would need to record when carrying out a consultation. 3 Why is it important to ask a client about her wishes?
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Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients (5) Deciding on a client’s skin type is not always a simple process – it can take several years to master each part of a facial treatment and become an expert. However, for Level 1 only background knowledge of the basics is required. Let’s take a closer look at skin types.
Skin types Normal skin Normal skin is a rare skin type. It is usually found in children and young clients. It is smooth and clear with no blemishes. It feels soft to touch and has very tiny pores that are difficult to see. This type of skin needs lots of gentle care to keep it normal.
Oily skin Oily skin is caused when too much oil is produced in the skin. Although we need oil to keep the skin smooth, when the body produces too much oil this causes problems. Oily skin has a shiny complexion with lots of blackheads and blemishes. The pores are quite large and the skin can be quite thick. An oily skin can start or become worse as a teenager, when puberty hormones are most active.
Dry skin Dry skin is lacking in oil and may flake and chap easily. It can feel tight after washing, especially if soap is used. Dry skin absorbs creams and lotions quickly, and can become lined and wrinkled early (especially around the eyes) unless it is moisturised well. Poor diet or dehydration can cause dry skin or make it worse.
Combination skin Combination skin is made up of two skin types. These types vary but the most common is normal or dry skin on the cheek area, and an oily part on the nose and chin, and across the forehead (known as the T-zone). The oily T-zone shows up as a shiny nose, chin and forehead with blackheads.
Get up and go! What skin type are you? Take a close look at your skin in the mirror. Use a good light and decide what skin type you have. Next, pair up with a friend and inspect each other’s skin. Did you both agree on the skin type?
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Contra-indications A contra-indication is a condition that makes or could make a client unsuitable for a treatment. At Level 1 you are not responsible for deciding whether or not a client has a contra-indication, but you must be aware of them and be able to recognise the signs so that you can tell a senior therapist if you notice anything unusual. Whatever level of experience therapists have, they are not qualified to diagnose medical conditions. Quite often during your treatments you may have an idea of what medical condition a client may have, but you must refer them to their GP. You must also make sure that you do not cause the client alarm or embarrassment by talking loudly about a contra-indication so that other people may hear or in a way that may worry the client.
Working around contra-indications Some contra-indications can be worked around and you can adapt your treatment in line with the client’s needs. Usually you will avoid the area that must not be worked on, but sometimes it is difficult to do this and so you may need to: cover the area with a plaster cover the area with barrier cream. Contra-indications that may be worked around include: non-infectious conditions non-recent scar tissue (over six months old) mild bruising grazes or small cuts. Skin disorders that may restrict treatment include: healed eczema – this will present as very dry and parched skin and can quite often look very lined psoriasis – this is scaly flakes of skin, quite often red and inflamed. It is best to completely avoid these areas as the products and procedures could cause further inflammation redness – adapt your methods, for example use gentle products and don’t carry out stimulating massage movements bruising – work around the bruising so that you don’t cause pain to the client skin irritation – it is recommended that you postpone the treatment until the irritation goes as it could be a sign of an allergy.
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Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients (6) Total contra-indications Some contra-indications could be made worse by treatment or could be infectious and spread to you and your other clients. These are called total contra-indications. You must never treat a client who has a total contra-indication. You will need to look out for: splits or blisters around the nose and mouth that could be a cold sore bloodshot and watery eyes that could be an allergy or conjunctivitis extremely red skin – it could be a sign of an allergy or an injury swelling or lumps – it could just be bruising but could also be something much more serious that needs to be checked by a GP. The following photos should help you to know what to look out for when you check a client’s skin for contra-indications.
Skin infections such as impetigo
Conjunctivitis
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Cold sores
Bruising
Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients
Scar tissue less than six months old
Cuts and grazes
Recent sunburn
Eczema
Allergies Some clients may be allergic to certain ingredients contained in products. You should always ask your client if she has any known allergies and check the list of ingredients on the label of the products you are planning to use. It may be that you check for allergies beforehand but a client nevertheless reacts badly to a product by showing one of these signs: itching, tightness, blistering, watery eyes, excess sweating, swelling or redness. If this happens you must take steps to remove the product immediately and tell your supervisor, who will advise you and the client on what should be done. She may be advised to bathe the area with cool water and see her GP.
Top tip
If you notice anything unusual on the skin, always ask your tutor or senior therapist to check for you before you start the treatment.
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Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients (7) Adapting your manner for different clients Although your manner must always be professional, your consultation with your client gives you the opportunity to find out what your client is like. Remember that the conversation and personality that one client may enjoy, another may not. Find out: what your client likes and does not like what your client’s personality is like; for example, shy or extrovert whether your client is talkative or quiet. As an assistant therapist you do not yet have the client experience that more qualified therapists have and so it is important that you try to develop people skills and learn how and when you need to adapt your body language, speech and manner. Use this consultation time to learn about the client so that you can adapt your style of communication as well as the treatment.
Preparing the client Once you have finished the client consultation, you need to get the client ready for her facial treatment. 1 Ask the client to remove any jewellery she is wearing and ask her to store it safely. 2 Ask the client to remove the clothes from her top half, and take them and hang them up. If she has to go to a treatment cubicle to change, you will need to give her a gown to wear to prevent any embarrassment. 3 Help the client on to the couch. Remove the gown and cover the client with the blankets or towels, and ask her if she is warm and comfortable. 4 Protect the client’s hair with a headband. Tuck either tissue or couch roll under the headband to keep it as clean as possible. Place a medium-sized towel across the client’s chest, then slip her bra straps down over her upper arms and tuck the towel over and under the straps, to protect them from the products.
Top tip
If a client removes her jewellery and does place it in a dish, the jewellery dish should then be placed on top of the trolley so that the client is able to see it at all times. This is for security reasons and it also acts as a memory jogger, so that the client does not forget her jewellery when she leaves.
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Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients
Consulting, planning and preparing for treatments with clients: a checklist 1 Have you prepared yourself and checked your personal presentation? 2 Have you set up your workplace and checked that you have what you need and that your equipment and tools are organised, easy to reach and properly sterilised or disinfected? 3 Have you removed your watch and jewellery? 4 Have you washed your hands? 5 Have you carried out the consultation? 6 Have you assessed the condition of your client’s skin? 7 Have you checked for contra-indications? 8 Have you asked the client to remove her jewellery? 9 Have you asked the client to remove the clothes from her top half, helped her on to the couch, covered her, protected her hair and bra straps and checked if she is warm and comfortable. If so, you are ready to begin the facial treatment.
Salon life Deepak started to cleanse the skin of his client but she started to wriggle and complained that it was stinging a bit. Deepak though that this would be fine and they agreed he would carry on, so he then toned the skin, but he could see the skin getting redder and redder and his client’s lips then began to swell too. His supervisor had popped out for a ten-minute break to get a bite to eat, so he did not have anyone to ask what to do. He checked the record card and there was no information to say that his client had an allergy, so he removed the cleanser and toner that he had used with cool water and tried to calm the reaction with different products. The condition got worse and by the time his supervisor returned the client’s face was very red and swollen and his supervisor was horrified. Was it Deepak’s fault? What could Deepak have done to lessen the problem? What could you do to prevent this happening to you?
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Memory jogger 1 List three contra-indications that you could work around. 2 List three contra-indications that will prevent you carrying out the treatment. 3 List the steps you need to take to prepare your client. 4 List three signs of an allergy. 5 How do you protect a contra-indication that you can work around?
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Carry out facial treatments (1) A facial should be relaxing and enjoyable for the client, as well as being beneficial to her skin. Learning about carrying out a facial involves learning about several smaller treatments that are carried out to: deep clean the pores nourish and rehydrate the skin relax the muscles improve the circulation brighten the complexion. After a facial, the client should feel relaxed and her skin should glow.
Step-by-step facial There are many steps involved in a facial skin care treatment. Before we go into them in detail, it will help to look at this summary so that the procedure is clear. Start
1 Preparation and consultation
2 Check for contraindications
3 Make-up removal
6 Full skin inspection
5 Tone and refresh
4 Cleansing
7 Exfoliate, steam and comedone removal
8 Massage
9 Face mask
Summary of steps in a facial treatment
10 Soften and smooth
Finish
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Carry out facial treatments
Top tip
Throughout the facial, explain what you are doing and why. This will reassure the client and help her to relax and enjoy it.
Make-up removal When your client is prepared for her facial and comfortably positioned on the couch, the first thing you need to do is to remove any make-up that she might be wearing. This is shown on page 116.
Top tip
You may need to repeat the eye make-up removal process for very heavy or waterproof make-up.
Cleansing Your next step is to cleanse the client’s face. Choose an appropriate cleanser for the client – look back at page 100 to remind yourself of the different types of cleansers available. The cleansing routine is carried out with massage movements. Massage has three main movements. Effleurage: this is a gentle stroking movement used at the beginning or end of the treatment or to join up other movements. It has a soothing and relaxing effect. This is the technique used for cleansing. Petrissage: these movements are circular or kneading movements. The hands, thumbs or fingertips are used to apply pressure to the muscles by lifting, rolling and pushing. Tapotement: this is a more stimulating movement in which the fingers, sides or palms of the hands produce light tapping, quick pinching or gentle slapping movements. For Level 1, it is not necessary for you to follow a set massage routine using all the movements. However, it is important to carry out some sort of pattern that is relaxing to the client. The photos on pages 116 – 120 illustrate a simple cleansing routine for you to follow. All movements are done lightly and your hands must never leave the client’s skin.
Tone and refresh After cleansing the client’s skin twice, you then need refresh her skin and remove the last traces of cleanser using a toning lotion. This is shown on page 121.
Top tip
Remember that you will have to write down the products you use on the client’s face on her record card.
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Carry out facial treatments (2) Step-by-step facial Full skin inspection When your client’s skin is completely clean, dry and grease-free, your senior therapist will carry out a thorough skin inspection under the magnifying lamp. It is only now when the skin is absolutely clean that you and your senior therapist will be able to see the true skin type, any disorders and make a final check for any contra-indications. You will then also be able to plan the rest of your facial deciding: on the products to be used on the type of face mask whether you need to slightly change your treatment plan. When carrying out the skin inspection, make notes on the record card.
Skin disorders and contra-indications Look out for signs of these, which were covered on pages 107–109.
Skin colour
The eyes
yy Does it have a healthy glow? yy Are there areas of redness that could suggest sensitivity? yy Is the skin tanned or is it a yellowy colour?
yy Are there laughter lines around the eyes? yy Are there dark circles or puffiness around or under the eyes?
Skin texture
Skin and muscle tone
Touch the skin. How does it feel?
yy Is the skin young and firm with good muscle tone and tight skin? yy Is the skin around the eyes and mouth loose with lines and wrinkles? yy Are there frown lines on the forehead?
yy yy yy yy yy
Soft or rough? Dry or oily? Flaky or smooth? Thin or thick? Firm or loose?
The T-zone
Client information
yy Is the T-zone shiny with blackheads, spots and open pores?
Ask the client: yy what products she uses on her skin yy what her normal skincare routine is What to look for during a full skin inspection
Get up and go! Practise some massage movements on another therapist so that she can give you feedback on how to improve.
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Exfoliate, steam and comedone removal, and massage The next steps in the facial treatment are exfoliation, steaming and comedone extraction, and massage, which will all be carried out by a senior therapist. Massage is a very skilful part of the facial treatment and can take a long time to master, so make sure that you watch the senior therapist carefully. As you become more skilled at your treatment, you may be allowed to carry out part of the massage..
Carry out facial treatments
Face mask When the senior therapist has completed the massage, you will then apply the face mask. Before applying the face mask, make sure that your client’s skin is free of oils and creams. Then choose a pre-prepared, non-setting mask to suit your client’s skin type.
Soften and smooth The final stage of the facial treatment is applying moisturiser to the client’s skin. When you have finished, leave the client to relax for a couple of minutes, and go and wash your hands. Then offer your client a mirror, so that she can check her complexion.
Finishing touches When you have finished the facial treatment, you must: ask your client how she feels and if she is pleased with her treatment give your client homecare advice (see pages 124–125) check the finished result with the senior therapist check the time, to make sure that the treatment was cost effective and carried out within an acceptable time (see page 89) make sure that the workplace is left tidy, clean and ready for further treatments. Remember to complete the client’s record card with as much information as possible on the products you used, the homecare advice you gave her on how to improve the condition of her skin and when to return for another salon treatment, your comments on how you and the client thought the treatment went, and the date, the type of facial and your name.
Top tips
yy It is very important to check that every trace of the mask is removed – make sure that no mask remains anywhere on the skin. Check behind the ears and under the chin. yy Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using beauty products. The instructions should have information about: yy how to use the product yy how long to leave it on the skin yy how to store it yy how to use it safely.
Get up and go! Design a client feedback sheet that you can use to ask clients how they felt about their facial treatment. Discuss the feedback with the rest of your class and your tutor.
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Memory jogger
1 At what stage in the facial do you apply the face mask? 2 Why is it important to write down on the record card all of the products that you use during a facial? 3 When do you give the client homecare advice? 4 Where on the face would the oily section usually be found with a combination skin type? 5 What would the texture of the skin feel like on a client with mature skin? 6 Why must the skin be completely clean and free of make-up before carrying out a full skin inspection?
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Carry out facial treatments (3) Step-by-step facial
1
Make sure the client is prepared for her facial.
2
Place half moons under the bottom lashes and ask client to close her eyes. Squeeze a small amount of eye makeup remover on to a spatula. Dip your index finger into the cleanser and gently rub on and around the eye in a circular movement.
3
Using a covered orange stick, use gentle downward strokes until the eye and lashes are free from make-up and cleanser. Repeat on the other eye. Then ask the client to open her eyes so that you can clean underneath them.
4
Gently rub some cleanser on to the lips. Hold on one side of the mouth for support, then wipe the make-up away with the other hand using damp cotton wool. Then hold the other side of the mouth, and repeat.
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Step-by-step facial
5
Squeeze a small amount of cleanser into the palm of your hands, then put your hands together so that you have the cleanser in both hands. Gently press your hands over the face and neck of your client, to coat her skin in cleanser.
7
Following the direction of the brows, gently circle the eyes with the middle fingers to distribute the cleanser around the eyes.
6
8
Using gentle, upward effleurage strokes, distribute the cleanser evenly over the face.
Use gentle upward effleurage strokes to spread the cleanser over the cheeks.
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Carry out facial treatments (4) Step-by-step facial
9
Using light movements, apply eight upward strokes to the client’s shoulders, chest area and neck with the palms of your hands. Start with the left side and gradually work to the right side. Then repeat, this time working from the right side to the left side.
11 Using the palms of the hands, slide to the left cheek and stroke upwards eight times.
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10 Apply eight upward strokes to the client’s neck with the palms of your hands. Start with the left side and gradually work to the right side. Then repeat, this time working from the right side to the left side.
12 Slide to the right cheek and stroke upwards eight times.
Carry out facial treatments
Step-by-step facial
13 Slide to the chin and carry out upward thumb circles eight times.
15 Slide up to the bridge of the nose and stroke upwards four times.
14 Using middle or index fingers, circle eight times under and around the sides of the nose.
16 Slide up to the forehead and stroke upwards eight times, moving from the left to the right and then back again.
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Carry out facial treatments (5) Step-by-step facial
17 Slide your hands to the middle of the forehead and circle the eyes gently four times in the direction of growth of the eyebrow. Slide to the temples and apply gentle pressure to complete the cleansing routine.
18 Take two damp cotton wool squares and wrap them around your first two fingers, and use them to remove the cleanser, which has now mixed with the dirt and face make-up. Use exactly the same strokes as for the cleansing routine (steps 9 to 17).
19 Carry out a second cleanse by repeating steps 5 to 19.
20 Take two more damp cotton wool squares and soak them in toning lotion.
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Step-by-step facial
21 Wrap the cotton wool around your fingers and repeat the cleaning routine, using the toner on the cotton wool instead. This will tone the skin and remove the last traces of cleanser.
23 Carry out a skin inspection under the magnifying lamp.
22 Using a split tissue, blot the toning lotion. Tone the skin a second time.
24 The senior therapist will carry out a skin exfoliating treatment, steam and comedone extraction. Tone and blot the skin by repeating steps 21 and 22. The senior therapist will then massage the client’s face, neck and shoulders. The massage should last about 15–20 minutes.
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Carry out facial treatments (6) Step-by-step facial: The face mask and soften and smooth
25 Place enough mask in a bowl to coat all your client’s face and neck. Using a mask brush and starting at the neck, apply the mask to the skin and move upwards evenly in smooth strokes, finishing with the forehead. Avoid the lips, eyes, nostrils and hairline.
26 After the face mask has been applied, place eye circles over your client’s eyes, then leave her to rest and relax for about 10 minutes, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions.
27 After 10 minutes remove the eye pads and press damp sponges over the mask, allowing the water to soak in. Starting at the neck and working up over the cheeks on to the nose and forehead, remove all the face mask with firm upward strokes.
28 Tone and blot the skin and apply moisturiser for the client’s skin type using the same massage routine to apply the moisturiser as you did for the cleanser. Blot the skin if there is too much moisturiser on it.
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Making sure your client enjoys her facial A facial should be an enjoyable and relaxing treatment for your client, but this could be spoiled if you are careless or disorganised. A client may not enjoy a facial if the therapist: has offensive body odour or bad breath or smells of tobacco harms or scratches the skin with jewellery, watches or nails that are too long massages the skin excessively or roughly gets facial creams or products into the client’s eyes breathes into the client’s face is not hygienic or careful enough removes cream carelessly and incorrectly, leaving a greasy film behind the ears, under the chin or in other areas does not permit the client to relax, either by talking too much or being tense while giving the treatment is disorganised and needs to leave the client to go and fetch materials and products has heavy, rough or cold hands. Take care to avoid these mistakes!
Male facials More men are having facial treatments than ever before. It is now seen as acceptable for men to visit salons to have treatments, and there are ranges of skin care products available in shops and salons that are targeted at the male skin care market. This has become a very profitable business.
Salon life
Top tip
Although you want to make sure that your client is enjoying her treatment by asking her how it feels or if she is comfortable, asking her too many times during the facial can ruin the atmosphere of the treatment and mean that it will not be as relaxing for her. Try not to question her more than a couple of times.
Get up and go! Visit some local salons and find out about the male skin care treatments on offer. How do they differ from a female skin care treatment?
During a consultation, Petra asked her client what she hoped to gain from her facial. The client said that she had a big dinner party that evening and wanted to go out feeling like a ‘new woman’. The client said that her skin was dry and flaky, and that her make-up wouldn’t go on very smoothly. The client hoped that Petra would be able to improve the texture of her skin, so that her makeup would look great for the party. It was obvious to Petra that the client had not been advised as to what a facial is, and therefore had her heart set on: yy a treatment for dry flaky skin yy being able to apply great make-up for her dinner party. 1 How could Petra explain the purpose of a facial to her client? 2 What other choices could Petra give her client? Write down or discuss how you would deal with these problems.
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Provide aftercare advice So that the beneficial effects of the facial treatment lasts, it is important to give the client some advice after the treatment. You should advise your client that the recommended interval between facial treatments is one month in order to keep the skin in great condition. This also gives your client the opportunity to book a further appointment with the salon. The facial treatment has given your client’s skin a boost. After the treatment, her skin will enjoy better circulation and a softer texture, and should be the cleanest it has been for a while. It is therefore important to give your client follow-up advice, so that she can experience the long-term benefits of her treatment. The table below details the follow-up advice that you should give. Follow-up advice
Reasons for advice
Leave the skin alone for the next 12 hours – it is not even necessary to cleanse it that night
The skin has had an hour-long treatment to deep cleanse and stimulate it, so it is best to allow time for the skin to relax and the salon products to work
Do not apply make-up for 12 hours, if possible
Make-up could clog the skin pores and make the skin dirty again before it has had a chance to gain the full benefits of the treatment
Avoid touching the skin
Touching the skin will make it dirty and undo the good work of the facial
Have a monthly facial, if possible
The skin takes about a month to renew its layers, so a regular facial will keep it in great condition
Cleanse, tone and moisturise, both morning and evening
This will keep the skin and pores clean and the skin soft
Wear a good moisturiser under make-up and in cold and windy weather
A good moisturiser will protect the skin from getting clogged with make-up and drying out in bad weather
Drink plenty of water and eat a healthy diet with lots of fruit and fresh vegetables
Water will help to rehydrate dry skin and a good diet will improve the condition of all skin types
Get plenty of sleep
When we sleep, the skin has a chance to repair itself
Try not to touch or squeeze blackheads and spots
You could make the problem worse and damage the skin
Always protect skin in the sun by using a cream containing a UV-filter (at least SPF 15)
The sun can age and dry out skin
Top tip
Look ahead to the Anatomy and physiology section in this book and refresh your memory on tips for healthy skin that you can pass on to your client.
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Provide aftercare advice
Contra-actions It is also helpful to give the client information on possible contra-actions. These are unwanted reactions that could occur, during or after a facial skin care treatment. If these happen during the treatment, the treatment may need to be stopped mid-way through and steps taken to prevent it happening again in the future. If there are no problems during the treatment, you nevertheless need to make the client aware of possible contra-actions in case she experiences them after leaving the salon. A stinging or burning feeling
Rashes
Blistering
Possible contra-actions Watery eyes
Severe erythema (redness)
Possible contra-actions to a facial skin care treatment
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Memory jogger 1 Give six points of follow-up advice and the reasons for them. 2 List three possible contra-indications that the client should be aware of before she leaves the salon.
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Getting ready for assessment Evidence requirements You will be observed by your assessor on at least three occasions, each involving a different client.
What you must cover during your practical assessments Ranges In your candidate log book you will have a list of ranges that you must cover during your assessment. These ranges cover: 1 consultation techniques 2 skin types 3 client preparation 4 facial products 5 advice. It is good practice to cover as many ranges as possible during each assessment. This will prevent you having to take too many additional assessments because there are many ranges that you have not managed to cover.
Performance criteria What you must demonstrate during a practical observation by your tutor: preparation for facials a skin analysis good communication skills basic facial skin care treatment using: yy cleansers, toners, moisturisers and eye make-up remover yy tools, equipment and consumables yy skin care products yy eye products checking the client is happy with the facial skin care treatment giving aftercare advice to the client leaving the work area in a suitable condition. Throughout your observations you will also need to make sure that you pay attention to health, safety and hygiene throughout, as well as presenting yourself well, so read through Unit G20 Make sure your own actions reduce risk to health and safety before any practical assessment just to refresh your memory.
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Getting ready for assessment
Carrying out a practical treatment using unhygienic tools, or without carrying out a risk assessment of your work area to avoid accidents happening, will mean that you are not safe to do a treatment and therefore could mean that you do not pass your assessment.
What you must know In order to pass this unit, you will need to gather evidence during the teaching and learning of this unit before your assessor observes your practical performance. You will gather this during class work and further study and will probably file it in a portfolio of evidence. This evidence will also be signed off in your candidate log book which you will be given by your assessor. This will be an official record to show that you have covered what you need to.
Salon life The senior therapist asked Maz to carry out the cleansing routine on a new client. During the questioning, Maz worked out that the client was 40 years old, but when Maz removed all of the make-up she was quite shocked to see that the client’s skin was very yellow and thick and the lines on the face were so much deeper than other mature clients she had treated that actually the client looked more like 60. While Maz was doing the cleansing routine the client looked up at Maz and complimented her on her complexion, she then asked her where she had got her tan. Maz told her that she sits out in her garden at weekends in the summer and visits the local tanning salon in the winter. The client then gave Maz a lecture on the dangers of sunbathing and sunbeds and told her that if she continued her skin would look like hers. Maz was shocked! Find out about the effects of the sun and sunbeds on the skin. How can Maz learn from her client?
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