IKAR 2009

Presented by

Dan Hourihan, Dale Atkins & Ken Phillips

Chamonix-Mt. Blanc, France, 9 - 12 October 2008 Prepared By: Dan Hourihan Alaska Mountain Rescue Group Mountain Rescue Association P.O. Box 771252 Eagle River, Alaska 99577 [email protected] INTRODUCTION The International Committee for Alpine Rescue (IKAR-CISA) met for its annual congress in Chamonix-Mt. Blanc, France, 9-12 October 2008. This year’s meeting marked the 60th anniversary of IKAR and the 50th anniversary of French government funding and oversight of mountain rescue services in the region. Chamonix is a town and commune in eastern France, in the Haute-Savoie département, at the foot of Mont Blanc (4808m). At the census of 1999 it had a population of 9,830 inhabitants and a land area of 116.53 km² (44.99 sq mi). The town lies at an altitude of 1,035 metres.

Chamonix

The 1924 Winter Olympics were held at Chamonix. The Chamonix valley runs from northeast to southwest, and is watered by the Arve, which rises in Le Tour. The Arve is joined by the torrent l'Arveyron, which rises in the famous Mer de Glace just above Chamonix. On the southeast towers the snowclad summit of Mont Blanc, and on the northwest the less lofty, but rugged chain of Le Brévent (2525m) and of the Aiguilles Rouges. Chamonix is a popular winter sports resort in France. As the highest European mountain west of Russia, Mont Blanc holds a special allure for mountain climbers, and Jon Krakauer, in an essay in his collection Eiger Dreams, described the town as "the death-sport capital of the world" because Chamonix serves as an ideal playground for almost all types of outdoor activity, especially in their more extreme variants, such as ice climbing, rock climbing, extreme skiing, paragliding, rafting, canyoning. Chamonix is famous for its spectacular cable car up to the Aiguille du Midi (3842m). Constructed in 1955 it was then the highest cable car in the world. Together with a cable car system going up to the Point Helbronner (3462m) from Entréves in the Aosta Valley (Italy) it is possible to cross the entire Mont Blanc Massif by cable car. In the summer months Chamonix is a mecca for alpine mountaineers, drawn to the area by challenges like the north face of the Dru, the Frendo Spur on the Aiguille du Midi, traversing the Alps on the legendary GR 5 footpath or more accessible challenges like summiting Mont Blanc (by a number of possible routes). (Wikipedia) The theme of this years IKAR Terrestrial Rescue meeting was “Mountain Rescue Involvement in Disaster Response” and presenters from around the world were required to submit proposals and papers in advance, with a standard 20 minute presentation period followed by 10 minutes of questions. This was the biggest gathering sponsored by IKAR, with more than 300 rescuers from 32 national organizations represented. Representing the MRA at Chamonix were Dan Hourihan and Rick Lorenz (Terrestrial Commission) Dr. Ken Zafren and Tim Kovacs (Medical Commission) Dale Atkins (Avalanche Commission) and Ken Phillips (Air Rescue Commission). Simultaneous translation was provided for all major sessions in English, French and German with the latest equipment and headphones, as well as sound proof booths for the translators. Attendance of the U.S. delegates was made possible by support from CMC Rescue, Goodrich Corp., and RECCO, as well as funding by the MRA . The U.S. MRA delegates are grateful to our sponsors for the long term support of this important international exchange. The Congress: Many delegates arrived in Chamonix on the afternoon and evening of Tuesday, October 7. A day of field demonstrations and exercises was held on Wednesday, October 8 and regular sessions began with a grand opening and welcome at 0830 Thursday morning. Delegates stayed in several hotels and the general meetings were held in a first class conference hall in the center of town. There was a vendors exhibition with displays of outdoor and rescue equipment. General Commission Issues: The minutes from last year’s meeting in Pontresina, Switzerland, were read and approved. Toni Grab, IKAR President began the Congress by outlining the goals of meeting discussions: 1.) mountain rescue involvement in disaster response; 2.) increased government demand for accountability; 3.) increased pressure on mountain rescue resources from new laws and regulations 2

and resulting unfunded mandates; and 4.) the potential of new standards to constrain operational flexibility during missions. Toni Grab (Switzerland), IKAR Vice-President Reinhold Dorflinger (Austria), Terrestrial Rescue Chair Bruno Jelk (Switzerland), Terrestrial Rescue Vice-Chair Gebhard Barbisch (Austria), and Treasurer Felix Meier (Switzerland) were reelected to their positions through 2012. Patrick Fauchere (Switzerland) was elected the new Air Rescue Chair. Toni and Gebhard are both long-time friends of U.S. MRA, having attended MRA annual meetings in Seattle and Anchorage. Comment: You can find a list of existing IKAR Recommendations and Standards at the publicly accessible website at www.ikar-cisa.org. IKAR is facing some of the same issues as MRA in terms of standards and increased government regulation. Most IKAR countries rely primarily on volunteer teams, with the exception of the professional mountain police in France. Wednesday Sessions: Practical demonstrations were held on the flanks of the Aiguille Verte. Participants were transported via the Grand Montets cable cars to approximately 11,000’ overlooking the Argentiere Glacier. More than 200 rescuers took part in the day’s activities. At the venue there were eight stations demonstrating a variety of technical, glacier, avalanche, and communications equipment innovations. Groups were organized by language: German, French and English. Demonstrations included use of mono, bi, and tri pod cliff evacuation operations, crevasse extrication, as well as use of the RECCO system. These sessions are covered in greater detail in this year’s IKAR DVD produced by Rick Lorenz, a member of the U.S. delegation, and his INREAS staff. Left: Aiguille Verte location of Wednesday field sessions.

Right: The Argentiere Glacier from the Aiguille Verte.

Thursday Sessions: The Terrestrial and Avalanche Commissions met together for the opening session. Terrestrial Commission President Bruno Jelk made opening comments and thanked the Chamonix organizers. After these general comments, the two commissions separated for the balance of the day to address discipline specific topics. Emergency Response Organization, Valais Canton, Switzerland: Dr. Jean-Pierre Deslarzes Dr. Deslarzes delivered a presentation detailing the emergency response resource organization for the Valais Canton in southern Switzerland. Created in 1997, this organization integrates all components of the public safety infrastructure (police, fire, EMS, SAR, helo) under one centralized command during emergency response incidents. The system is similar to the Unified Command ICS template used in the U.S., with similar successful results. Eighteen organizations are involved. 3

Waldbrand am Stagor Fire: Joseph Brandner and Peter Pompenig, Austrian Mountain Rescue The speakers detailed the involvement of Austrian Mountain Rescue personnel in a major fire in the Waldbrand am Stagor region of Austria in February, 2003. The fire covered 472 square kilometers and threatened the homes of 13,500 citizens. The majority of the fire burned on steep, mountainous terrain, requiring belayed access and advanced anchoring techniques. The fire attack continued for fourteen days and severely taxed fire response resources in the region. A total of 1,021 personnel were involved in the response representing police, fire, military, alpine rescue, Red Cross, and aviation agencies. Forty-one (41) alpine rescue personnel provided the following Mountain Rescuer with Fedco backpack pump services during the incident: communications, helibase/helispot management, targeted helo fire retardant drops, steep terrain fall protection, and firefighting with backpack pumpers on belay. Although integration of alpine rescue resources in this incident were both vital and successful, the speakers recommended that such potential operations be a component of incident preplanning and coordination efforts. Kander Incident, Switzerland: Hans Martin-Henny, Swiss Army Mountain Service Mr. Martin-Henny detailed a river incident that occurred in June, 2008 near Thuner Lake in the vicinity of Bern. Three rafts, with five soldiers in each, were conducting rafting training when they approached a series of three low head dams. Two of the boats capsized, throwing all occupants into the river. All were swept downstream into a stretch of the river lined with steep, difficult to access terrain. The rescue response involved police, fire, EMS, helicopter, and mountain rescue resources; both civilian and military. Access to the river required both belayed access and river crossing highlines. The involvement of mountain rescue resources was critical to the success of the mission; despite the lack of training, experience, and specialized equipment of the mountain rescue personnel for river rescue. The major challenges during the mission involved the lack of common communications equipment and procedures, undefined authority amongst the various agencies involved, and the need for specialized training and equipment prior to an incident. Comment: It is interesting to note that multi-agency coordination is well developed in certain areas of Switzerland (e.g. Valais Canton) and is still evolving in others; much like the U.S. The common thread, however, is the recognized need for such. 4

Kyrgyzstan International Cooperative Training: Milan Sekelsky, Slovakia Mountain Rescue Mr. Sekelsky detailed a two year training program provided by Slovakia Mountain Rescue to better organize and prepare Kyrgyzstan mountain rescue personnel to provide services in the Kirghiz Mountains. Thirty-seven students participated in the program which conducted training in the following disciplines: avalanche rescue and recovery, technical rock and ice, crevasse rescue, search, and mission management. After successful completion of the course, participants received a certificate recognizing their accomplishment. The Kirghiz Mountains receive frequent international mountaineering expeditions and there has been very limited capacity for rescue response in the event of mishap. All field training and classroom sessions were conducted with the use of translators, a daunting, but successful, task. Comment: This is an exemplary example of the benefits of international exchange and cooperation. Mr. Sekelsky cited the great personal and professional satisfaction enjoyed by the Slovakian trainers, as well as the significant enhancement of mountain rescue capabilities within the affected Kyrgyzstan region The possibility of international exchange exists within the structure created by the MRA: the parameters of which are entirely dependent on the participating teams. A group of the Kyrgyzstan graduates

Integration of Mountain Rescue in Crisis Teams: Andreas Bardill, Director, Swiss Alpine Rescue Mr. Bardill discussed the challenges and actions needed to fully integrate highly qualified mountain rescue teams in to crisis teams dealing with nontraditional mountain rescue incidents. He used as an example the crash of a German Air Force Tornado jet fighter in April, 2007. The jet was flying very low at high speed through a mountain valley in the vicinity of the Mittaghorn when the pilot lost control and the aircraft crashed into a mountain rock face. The weapons officer was able to eject, but his parachute became hung on the rock wall. Nine agencies from two countries (Switzerland, Germany) were involved in the rescue and follow up investigation. 5

The initial action was a straight forward mountain rescue operation. Remarkably, the weapons officer survived the ejection and impact with the rock wall and was successfully rescued! Due to the nature of the terrain at the impact point, mountain rescue personnel and techniques were needed to access the aircraft debris and undertake the crash investigation. Major challenges faced during this mission included Hazmat, weaponry, and terrain. The outcome was a full review of the manner in which Swiss Alpine Rescue manages their training programs and missions, with emphasis on multiagency integrated operations (see slide). Major lessons learned

Comment: The involvement of mountain rescue personnel in non-traditional mountain rescue disaster incidents raises many concerns, as witnessed in this case. As the U.S. federal government undertakes the “typing” of all potential response resources, including mountain rescue teams, and “credentials” individual responders, Hazmat training and PPE requirements will become a necessity for those wishing to be utilized. Mountain Rescue and Disaster Response in the United States: Dan Hourihan, MRA Hourihan presented examples of U.S. MRA teams’ involvement in non-traditional incident response. Included were San Diego Mountain Rescue Team’s actions during wildfires in Southern California, Central Arizona Mountain Rescue Association’s services during the Hurricane Katrina aftermath, and flood response in Grand Canyon National Park. Mountain rescue teams can and do serve a vital role in disaster response. The potential response capability of each team is based on its skill set, relationship/coordination with local authorities, and desire to participate in non-traditional mountain rescue incidents. Possible incidents include: wildfire, flood, extreme weather, earthquake, airline crashes in mountainous terrain, and major terrorist acts.

Mountain Rescue contributions in disaster response

Comment: Although traditional mountain rescue is rooted in a rich history of mountaineers helping other mountaineers in the mountains, trained and experienced teams possess significant skills of great value to those in need anywhere. It is likely that teams will respond when their services can contribute; so it is important to consider potential disasters in their operational area and prepare for such. Right: San Diego Mountain Rescue Team wildfire response

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Multi-Function Helmet:

Peter Veider, Tyrolean Mountain Rescue, Austria Peter Veider introduced an innovative helmet design which is suitable for mountain rescue, skiing, sledding, skateboarding, and bicycling, with an imbedded RECCO reflector. The helmet is UIAA, EN, and ASTM approved and is currently priced at 150 euros. Introduced in 2007, 4,000 were available the first year with 7,000 manufactured in 2008. The helmet is currently marketed by Dynafit and will also be by Salewa, called the Xenon helmet. A smart choice for those enthusiasts of varied outdoor activities requiring helmet use.

Multi-Function Harness: Bavarian Mountain Rescue The Bergwacht Bayern (Bavarian Mountain Rescue) has developed a harness system that is applicable both alpine and air rescue use. It is an integrated chest and sit harness system that incorporates materials approved for both applications and allows a variety of configurations, e.g. single and double hoist.

Bergwacht Bayern (Bavarian Mountain Rescue):

Otto Moslang, Bavaria, Germany

Mr. Moslang, the Bavarian Mountain Rescue director, presented an overview of the Bergwacht Bayern’s operation. Their area of responsibility includes 7 regions and 92 towns. They handle approximately 12,000 missions/year; 6,000 of which require medical actions. The 85 year old organization has 4,400 members, of which 2,700 are active rescuers and 150 are doctors. They serve a major role in disaster response throughout Bavaria including: fire response in steep terrain, medical evacuations, floods, landslides, major highway transportation closures, and significant 7

events. He detailed, as an example, the Bergwacht’s service provided during this year’s Zugspitz Race, a very popular mountain race. The race was held during very poor weather; high winds, rain, and temperatures in the 40’s. Many racers became disoriented and lost on the mountain, with dozens overdue and unaccounted for. Of the 580 participants, 100 required medical aid, with 2 requiring resuscitation and 18 requiring advanced medical procedures. In Bavaria, the police, fire, and rescue services all have lawful responsibility to respond and provide services during disaster operations. This drives the coordination and preplanning efforts that take place. It also has led to the development of training modules by the Bergwacht addressing the management of disasters, including multi-agency coordination and multi-agency exercises. Comment: The Bergwacht Bayern provides a high quality model for emergency response in mountainous terrain. Although comprised almost entirely of volunteers, the public funding they receive, by virtue of its lawful responsibilities, provides the foundation for an outstanding training program. Of note is the invitation, with tuition, housing and meals free of cost, that has been extended to the MRA to send two rescuers each year to the Bergwacht Winter Rescue Course held in the Alps near Sonthofen. In January, 2009, rescuers from Seattle Mountain Rescue and Portland Mountain Rescue will attend.

Winter Climbing Accident, Tatra Mountains, Poland: Tomasz Witkowski, TOPR, Poland In February, 2008, a solo climber on Mt. Mieguszowiecki fell while attempting the central pillar on the mountain’s north face. He was not discovered until the following day, when two members of the TOPR Mountain Rescue team attempting the same route encountered him. He was hanging free, suspended from his SOLOIST device, with no support from his sit harness. It appeared that he had fallen 25 meters and remained in the free hanging position since the fall. The cause of death was attributed to extended free hang and the improper use of the SOLOIST device. The climber sustained no external injuries. 8

International Disaster Response Coordination:

Gebhard Barbisch, Austrian Mountain Rescue

Mr. Barbisch detailed his involvement with the EU efforts, in conjunction with the UN and other international organizations, to prepare agreements for mutual aid responses to disasters on an international scale. Comment: Though this presentation holds little relevancy to the vast majority of mountain rescue teams and their members, it should be noted that the U.S. National SAR Plan, developed by the National SAR Committee (NSARC), details major domestic disaster response in its Catastrophic Incident addendum. The interface of the U.S. in international disaster response is detailed in the U.S. supplement to the International Aeronuatical and Maritime SAR Plan (IAMSAR). See http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg534/NSARC.asp Delegates’ Meeting IKAR President invited each of the Commission Chairs to summarize the activities of their commission during the Chamonix congress (see individual Commission reports on the MRA website at http://www.mra.org/training/ikar.php . He summarized the 2008 theme of Disaster Response by reiterating the value of mountain rescue team skills integrated in a multi-agency, coordinated response. He further stated that the major current challenge to mountain rescue was the governmental development of standards and regulations affecting mountain rescue operations. He stated that mountain rescue must be involved in the development of any standards and regulations and that they must not restrict the flexibility so necessary in actual field operations. He invited any IKAR member organizations to reach out to IKAR for support if they encounter problems with such regulatory or standard development in their home country. The 2009 IKAR Congress will be held in Zermatt, Switzerland 23-26 September. It will have a day of field presentations on 23 September focusing on avalanche operations. The themes of the Congress will be Disaster Response Coordination and Mountain Rescue Standards and Regulations.

Respectfully Submitted, Dan Hourihan, Alaska Mountain Rescue Group, MRA U.S. IKAR Terrestrial Commission Delegate

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October 9 - 12, 2008 - Chamonix - France PREPARED BY Marc Ledwidge Manager, Mountain Safety Programs Parks Canada Box 900, Banff, AB Canada T1L 1K2 [email protected]

Ken Phillips Chief Emergency Services Grand Canyon National Park Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ USA 86023 [email protected]

INTRODUCTION: This year’s congress was hosted by the Société Chamoniarde de Secours en Montagne The Air-Rescue Sub-commission met with members representing 16 countries. They were Austria, Canada, Croatia, Czech Republic, France, Greece, Italy, Norway, Poland, Slovak Republic, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and United States of America. ACCIDENTS & INCIDENT REVIEWS FROM MEMBER COUNTRIES: France – Accident, Rotor Strike. While on a high angle rescue on the Swiss Route of the Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc Massif, an Alouette III of the Securite Civile experienced a main rotor strike. A climber had experienced a 40 metre leader fall and sustained serious injuries. Two rescuers were hoisted onto the accident site separately. Given the steepness of the terrain, all available 40 metres of hoist cable were used. Given the severity of the injuries, the rescuers requested that the doctor attend the scene. While the crew was hoisting the doctor towards the ledge, the main blades of the helicopter struck the granite wall. The doctor was down 30 1

metres. The pilot struggled to maintain control of the aircraft and pulled away from the wall. The hoist operator told the pilot he would take care of getting the doctor back on board while the pilot performed an emergency landing. The pilot headed immediately for the glacier below and was able to land the aircraft safely after running it on over 50 metres horizontally. The hoist operator was able to get the doctor back inside before the helicopter hit the ground. During the debrief, the crews commented that with additional cable length, they would have had a larger margin of safety. The victim was a trained mountain guide rescuer known to the rescue crew. To complicate the operation, there were other climbers above the helicopter during the hoisting operation. France, accident, crash An AS350B3 crashed on take-off in the Chamonix area. The helicopter lost power while it was climbing and crashed on a glacier. There were two important factors that allowed the pilot to escape with minor injuries. His helmet prevented him from sustaining head injuries and the crash absorbing seats minimized back injuries. The airact

United States- INCIDENT UPDATE The U.S. Coast Guard released their “final report” on the February 11, 2006 helicopter rescue accident, which took place along the Humboldt Coast of California. The accident involved a USCG HH-65 Dauphin, which responded from Air Station Humboldt Bay with crew of four to an 18-foot boat capsized in the surf with four persons in water. Finding an 82 year-old female in cardiac arrest, the rescue swimmer was deployed from the helicopter. The rescue swimmer moved the victim to the beach and conducted CPR. As the helicopter re-positioned over the remaining victims, the number one engine suddenly shut

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down resulting in a “rapid power loss”. The helicopter crashed from a 25 foot hover into shallow water 40 yards from shore, where all three crew members exited uninjured and reached the beach. Two of the four original rescue victims died. The USCG Report has identified that the co-pilot was in the process of moving from the cockpit to the aft cabin, in order to be hoisted into the surf. During this movement, his flight helmet accidentally snagged the engine fuel flow control lever overhead. “The copilot was focused on not making contact with the primary flight controls and failed to adequately judge clearance to the overhead console.” A lack of policy was in place for this acknowledged procedure. For years the in-flight movement from the cockpit to the cabin was an “unofficial practice” used to carry out missions. The USCG has now validated the need for this procedure and will develop a formal policy with associated training. United States- Accident On December 30, 2007 AIR EVAC LIFETEAM Bell 206 L3 crashed near Cherokee, AL, in the Freedom Hills Wildlife Management Area, while assisting in the search for a missing hunter. According to the NTSB, “the flight was a voluntary mission, as the operator would not receive payment for the flight unless the hunter required air transport to a hospital.” The helicopter crewmembers had located the missing hunter with a spotlight and intended to illuminate him till ground rescuers reached him. The helicopter was about 100-150 feet above the trees, and in a hover or very slow flight, when the witnesses heard a decrease in engine noise, followed by an increase in engine noise. They then observed the helicopter spinning right, with a "fireball" near the engine exhaust, as it descended vertically into wooded terrain. The pilot, paramedic and nurse were all killed in the crash at 0306 hours.

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United States- 2008 HEMS Accidents During 2008, as of December 1, there were tragically 12 HEMS accidents (8 involved fatalities), which included 29 fatalities. According to the NTSB, the most previously killed in HEMS accidents during a single year, was 18 in 2004. This tragic year included the following accidents; (red text denotes fatal accident) Feb. 5- Valley Air Care AS350 B2 crashed at 2054 hours in a bay near South Padre Island, TX. The Pilot, flight nurse and paramedic were killed. May 10- University of Wisconsin Med Flight EC135 crashed at 2245 hours near La Crosse, WI, following transfer of patient with intracranial hemorrhage. The pilot, a physician and a nurse died. May 29- Aero Med S-76A crashed at Aero Med Accident in Grand Rapids. MI 1101 hours on Spectrum Hospital roof in Grand Rapids, MI. FAA observer and pilot aboard sustained injuries, but exited aircraft before it was consumed by fire. May 30- Air Methods EC135 P2+ crashed at 2050 hours in a freight yard in Pottsville, PA, while en route to a motorcycle accident. Minor injuries only. June 8- Bell 407 helicopter crashed at 0248 hours in the Sam Houston National Forest on its way to Herman Memorial Hospital, Houston, TX, killing four people. June 27- Air Evac AS350 B3 helicopter crashed at 0341 hrs near Ash Fork, AZ., while landing adjacent to highway accident scene in a field where rotor wash created dust cloud. Paramedic on board was injured. June 29: Classic Lifeguard and Guardian Air Bell 407 helicopters collide in mid-air at 1547 hours near Flagstaff Medical Center in Arizona, killing seven people in clear weather. Both aircraft were in-bound to the hospital with patients aboard. July 11- Agusta A109E, operated by AirMed suffered forced landing after a partial loss of engine power on takeoff from Doctors Hospital Heliport, Augusta, Georgia at 1050 hours. No injuries.

HEMS Mid-Air Collision, Flagstaff, AZ

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Aug. 31- An Air Evac Bell 206L-1 crashed at 1320 hours near Greensburg, IN a farm field shortly after takeoff, killing three crew members aboard.

Sept. 27- Maryland State Police AS365N1 Dauphin crashed at 2358 hours near Forestville, MD in IFR conditions, while transporting two patients. Four of the five persons on board were killed. Oct 13- Arizona DPS Air Rescue Paramedic was killed, when he suffered fatal strike from main rotor of Bell 407 at 1518 hours. Wreckage of Maryland State Police AS365 Dauphin Accident occurred during mountain rescue of two uninjured hikers near Sedona, AZ. Oct 15: Air Angel Bell 222 struck a radio tower wire and crashed at 2358 hours in Aurora, IL. The 1 year-old patient and three crew members were killed. (Ed Note- The reporting of helicopter rescue accidents typically entails distant locations and circumstances. However the accidents in Flagstaff, AZ and Sedona, AZ caused us to reflect on how small the worldwide helicopter rescue community truly is. Several of these victims were known personally by us. Our deepest sympathies go out to the victims’ families of all the tragic accidents listed in this report.)

United States- Near-Miss Incident One month prior to the Flagstaff, AZ mid-air collision, a hauntingly similar accident nearly occurred in Sacramento, CA. On May 27, 2008 a HEMS CALSTAR BO105T was on approach to Sutter Roseville Medical Center landing pad with patient aboard in clear weather. The aircraft had to take evasive action to avoid a public agency Bell 205 on collision course. The Sacramento Metro Fire Department Bell 205 helicopter never changed course. It was assumed the CALSTAR aircraft was never seen by them. As a result of this incident, CALSTAR officials are working to develop an assigned statewide HEMS radio frequency.

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United States- Accident On September 4, 2008 a U.S. Coast Guard HH-65 Dauphin crashed at about 8:15 pm near Honolulu, Hawaii, off the coast of Oahu, killing the four crew members on board. The aircraft was conducting night-time small boat hoisting drills with a 47-foot motor lifeboat at the time of the accident. According to media reports, “a distress signal was received from the Coast Guard vessel participating in training two minutes before the accident.” Rear Adm. Manson Brown, Coast Guard Sector Honolulu Commander, has stated, “the line used to lower a rescue basket to the sea apparently malfunctioned.” A USCG official confirmed “Snagging of the hoist cable was involved. Don’t know at this time if it was a factor.” The chopper's fuselage and data and voice recorder were later recovered and are being examined. United States- Accident On October 13, 2008 a 36 year-old Arizona Department of Public Safety (DPS) Air Rescue paramedic was killed during a helicopter rescue near Sedona, AZ. Bruce Harrolle, a 9-year veteran of the rescue unit, was fatally struck by the main rotor blades of the Bell 407 helicopter. The rescue helicopter with pilot and paramedic had responded from their Flagstaff base, at the request of the Sedona Fire Department, to provide assistance in locating two uninjured “stranded hikers” in the Bear Mountain area. While the helicopter responded, Sedona FD personnel visually spotted a male and female couple matching the description and DPS was asked to verify location and identity of the hikers. The DPS crew landed near the hikers on Bear Mountain in a rugged drainage. The helicopter, which is equipped with high skids, landed with both skids on the ground, however the uneven terrain forced the pilot to maintain a “power-on landing” for stability of the aircraft. Bruce escorted the male subject to the aircraft and was in the process of the loading the female hiker, when the accident occurred. As he escorted her to the helicopter, they momentarily became physically separated on either side of a cactus. When they reconnected Bruce stood upright facing the helicopter from the twelve o’clock position and he was struck by the rotor blades.

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Hurricane Response, Aviation Lessons Learned, Ken Phillips, Grand Canyon National Park, USA Hurricane Ike, the third most destructive hurricane ever to hit the United States, made landfall on September 13. The disaster response was managed under unified command with the State of Texas. The response involved approximately 60 helicopters conducting 603 sorties within 72 hours of landfall. A critical resource was the deployment of four USAF Combat Ground Controllers, who provided a link to the military AWAC overhead coordinating the airspace once the hurricane passed. They performed air attack supervision from the ground with a computer linked to radar data onboard the AWAC overhead. Advance planning for the hurricane highlighted pre-established communications and having a temporary flight restriction (TFR) in place. The bulk of the aviation tasking was accomplished efficiently in Houston by the Air Boss, who supervised the “Joint AirGround Coordination Team”. This team was comprised of personnel from all agencies with aviation assets involved in the operational response. This included Customs & Border Protection, TX DPS Aviation Unit, TX Department of Parks & Wildlife, US Coast Guard, TX Military Forces (National Guard), US Air Force and Civil Air Patrol. In review it was felt that having all these aviation managers working face-to-face in one room was the key to facilitating efficient coordination. Greece- Accident A Robinson Helicopter crashed during an October 5th rescue attempt on Mount Olympus. This non-fatal crash occurred in windy conditions as the aircraft attempted to evacuate a casualty from the 2,200 meter elevation on the mountain. The light helicopter had lifted off with a limited fuel load on board to increase the allowable weight and the flight crew weight was 140 kg. The aircraft experienced a “downwash” over a ridgeline” and suffered a sudden five meter drop to the ground. The aircraft impacted and rolled on its side. The only injury was sustained during breaking the Plexiglas to exit the aircraft.

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Greece- Training Incident On April 12th an entanglement incident occurred during a heli-rappel training session. As a trainee rappelled from a rented Eurocopter AS 350 helicopter, his shoelace became entangled in an exposed mounting bracket on the aircraft skid. The entanglement was brief as the rappeller was able to free himself and reach the ground. The actual incident was captured on film. The involved rescuer was new and performing their initial helicopter rappel, although they had previous rappelling experience. Following the incident, a rappeller safety check is now conducted by an instructor and prior to rappelling from a helicopter training rappels are conducted from a bridge. It is worth noting that entanglement has been pointed out as a recurring problem in previous IKAR/CISA reports. Greece- Training Incident A second rappel training incident occurred when an aircraft seat cushion came loose and was ejected from the helicopter during a hover. The seat cushion became entangled with the heli-rappel rope as the rappeller prepared to initiate their rappel. The seat cushion came loose from the Velcro attachment points in the aircraft and fell directly to the ground without further incident. The aircraft was rented from a commercial helicopter vendor. The post Incident review developed the following corrective actions; provide safety briefing to involved personnel and request pilot remove seats prior to any exercise. Removal of cushions is a manufacturer requirement on AS 350s when flying with door off or open. Greece- Training Incident Extreme communication difficulties hampered a hoist training exercise in the Greek Meteora Region. During the training, the pilot of a Greek Military Super Puma had extreme difficulty with inserting rescuer on to the shoulder of a large boulder. In spite of a human relay, ground rescuers were unable to provide adequate radio communications as the helicopter approached the scene due to their radio transmissions being blocked by the terrain. Once over the scene, the pilot worked laboriously for a long time trying to place the rescuer on target. Finally, the rescuer was placed down slope and climbed up the targeted site. Reviewing the incident, it was recognized that during every exercise with the Greek military there is a different aircrew involved. This situation makes it very difficult for rescue personnel to develop solid working relationships. The ground-to-air communications have been improved with the use of three human relays on subsequent training missions at this site. There has been an IKAR/CISA recommendation since 2003 stating “Every HEC operation should be conducted with a proper two-way radio communication system”.

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Norway- Incident A fatal BASE accident in the Trollveggen (aka Trollwall) became complicated during the helicopter recovery effort. Rescuers located fatality by helicopter and then used captured video images to confirm what appeared to be an obvious fatality. A Sea King was then brought in to the scene and was in the process of lowering a rescuer via hoist, when rotor wash filled the BASE jumper’s chute causing the victim to be dragged over a cliff edge and sustain an additional 150 meter drop. The post-incident review pointed out the consideration for conducting the rescuer insertion away from the accident scene to eliminate associated rotor wash hazard, during a mission where there is an associated parachute at the accident scene. South Africa- Training Incident A dynamic rollout from a hoist hook nearly occurred during helicopter hoist rescue refresher training session on March 2, 2006. Although the incident occurred two years ago, it is being reviewed here following release of an official investigative report. This training was being conducted by the Mountain Club of South Africa’s Mountain Rescue Team (Gauteng) in conjunction with 17 Squadron, South Africa Air Force at Dome Kloof in the Magaliesberg. Two members were being hoisted into an SA330 Oryx Helicopter, which was hovering at a height of approximately 16m (50’) AGL. As the two members neared the aircraft (2-3m below the aircraft, 1314m off the ground) one of them noticed that the figure eight device, to which they were both connected, had undergone a partial dynamic rollout from the hoist hook and was suspended on the lip of the hook. The rescuers decided to complete the hoist rather than try to signal the flight engineer to lower them back to the ground. The hoist was completed and no one was injured. The training session had 11 MCSA SAR members involved, which included two new trainees paired with other team members. Neither of these two “novice” team members was involved in the incident. The rescuers each had attachment extensions from their harnesses which were connected by carabiners to the large ring of a single common (shared) figure eight abseil device. The small ring of the figure eight was then clipped into the hoist hook, giving one single point of attachment onto the hoist hook. The investigation determined that one of two scenarios occurred. The two rescuers allowed slack to

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develop in the system just before they were lifted off the ground, or they were lifted off and then momentarily put back down again, resulting in slack in the system. Once this occurred it is believed that the figure eight became loaded upon the hoist hook latch (keeper). The hoist hook latch was constructed of rolled metal in contrast to the cast cargo hook. The deformed hook latch partially released the figure eight, which instead of falling free from the hoist hook, came to rest on the lip of the hook. The aluminum figure eight, which is a soft metal in comparison, permitted the hoist-hook to gouge a groove in it and ultimately come to rest in that gouged groove. Post Investigation Follow-Up Actions x Figure eight is being discarded as a helicopter hoisting connector. x Adjustment of rescuer sling to no longer than harness-to-shoulder length. x Rescuers are advised to support the hoist hook assembly under tension till they lifted. x A standardized set of hand signals for use by rescuers and air-crews during hoist operations will be adopted. x The MCSA SAR procedure recommends the use of steel twist-lock carabiners for helicopter work. Steel-on-steel components will slip instead of gouging into one another. x Air-crews should be reminded that the procedure for hoisting is to lift the rescuer using the aircraft collective. Once the rescuer is off the ground they should inspect their connection to the hoist hook, and only when signaled to proceed, raise the rescuer up to the aircraft. If the hoist is used to lift the rescuer from the ground, it is possible that a small but sharp descent by the aircraft could result in a rescuer being put back on the ground. This in turn could result in the entire hoist hook connection to capsize into a hazardous configuration for lifting. South Africa- Hoisting Incident During a Mountain Club of South Africa’s Mountain Rescue Team helicopter hoist training exercise with a South African Air Force BK- 117 an entanglement was encountered. The BK-117 is equipped with a “Mandela Step” to assist the 90 year-old former President with getting on board the helicopter. During a hoisting evolution the lip of the step snagged the leg loop strap of a rescuer’s harness, causing the rescuer to be entangled with sudden and severe compression to the affected leg. The location of the incident turned out to be fortunate as the rescuer was able to reach up and grab the hoist operator’s leg in order to get their attention for immediate assistance. The potential for this step to be an entanglement hazard had been previously considered.

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South Africa- Accident A Bell 206 Jet Ranger crashed during a joint-agency surf rescue short-haul training exercise at 1300 hours on December 18, 2007. The training was being conducted by National Sea Rescue Institute (NSRI) along with a Vodacom Netcare 911 Surf Rescue helicopter. The Jet Ranger ditched in the surf, approximately 50 meters off-shore, near Groot Brak River, between Mossel Bay and George. The pilot, Paul Davidson and the duty NSRI helicopter crewman, Jaco de Jong, safely exited the aircraft and received assistance by the two Vodacom Netcare 911 Surf Rescue swimmers who had been in the surf preparing to be static line hoisted. The two rescue swimmers were not injured in the crash. Preliminary reports indicate that the accident might have been caused by “dynamic rollover.” The accident report is pending from the South African Civil Aviation Authority (CAA). Vodacom Netcare 911 Surf Rescue helicopters are based in Durban, Margate, Port Elizabeth, George and Cape Town. Each is crewed by a pilot, a Netcare 911 medic, an SA Lifesaving rescue swimmer and an NSRI rescue swimmer. South Africa- Accident On November 21, 2007 a South African made Oryx, which is equivalent to the Eurocopter Super Puma, crashed in the mountains near the town of Wepener. The accident occurred in South Eastern Free State inside the Lesotho border. The aircraft was on a law enforcement pursuit mission when it went down during a high speed tight turn. The helicopter was carrying a total of 19 personnel on board, including the crew, at the time. One police officer died in the crash. South Africa- Accident During another law enforcement mission, a police BO-105 suffered a cable strike on July 4, 2008 in the community of Soweto. The aircraft was providing aerial assistance in tracking two fleeing robbery suspects. Based upon evidence at the scene it appears the helicopter struck power lines in the area. The helicopter from the Johannesburg Air Wing joined in the hunt for the suspects as the area in which they were hiding was not accessible by road. All three police officers aboard the helicopter survived the crash and were evacuated to the hospital for treatment.

11

Switzerland – HEMS accidents Two accidents were reported with HEMS missions. The first involved a wire strike while transporting through a valley. The helicopter was able to land safely. The crew noted that the wire was not shown on the moving map display. The second incident with an Augusta 109 Power involved ground resonance. The helicopter landed on a heliport and started to experience vibrations so high that the pilot was not able to maintain control. The vibration was so bad that the main rotor damper separated and flew 200 metres away. Collapse of the main landing gear followed. There were no injuries. PRESENTATIONS: New Hoist technology – Bob Strickland, Goodrich Hoists, USA The latest in hoist technology from Goodrich hoists was presented. The trend is towards dual hoist installation on new aircraft particularly in the heavy category. This is to provide redundancy. It is most prominent in maritime SAR applications such as on the NH90

The new hoist installation on the Agusta Westland AW139 was discussed. A dual hoist installation is available on that aircraft. There is also a trend towards hoists with greater payload (up to 410 Kg), greater fleet angles (45 degrees +) and greater velocities (1.78m/sec). Other features now available include a built in health monitoring system and load sensors. Research is ongoing into developing hoist capability on unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs)

12

Pilot Induced Oscillations, Patrick Fauchère, Air-Glaciers Switzerland A pilot induced oscillation is defined as “an inadvertent, sustained aircraft oscillation as a consequence of an abnormal joint enterprise between the aircraft and the pilot” [McRuer, 1995]. As implied by the name, this phenomena is initiated by control inputs from the pilot. Its causes and techniques on how to recover from this were discussed. This condition is difficult to predict. A video from Croatia of the cockpit of an MI8 experiencing this condition was shown. Night Sun – Geoff Dinsdale, Breeze Eastern Hoists, UK A video presentation on the effectiveness of the latest night sun technology was presented. This equipment has 30 million candlepower. There are two models available including a lighter version that is limited to a broad beam. When the light is mounted forward, the pilot looks along the beam whereas when it is mounted aft, the whole area below the aircraft is lighted. This equipment is adapted to the latest generation of aircraft. Environmental Considerations – Jean-Pierre Brässler, Eurocopter, France A number of “green” environmental initiatives by Eurocopter were presented. Eurocopter feels that they are at the forefront of these types of initiatives in the industry. For many years, they have looked into quiet technology. Automatic variable speed control is one of those innovations. The Fenestron tail rotor technology has been around for many years and has been improved significantly with the latest aircraft in production. This technology provides significant noise reduction. Eurocopter is a member of the “Clean Sky Joint technology Initiative (Clean Sky JTI). This research project with an estimated budget of €1.6 million is one the largest ever and will be shared by the European Union and Industry. The research will focus on reducing CO2 and NOx emissions, noise reduction and adopting a “green” life cycle in manufacturing and recycling of materials. Initiatives in the manufacturing process include everything from blade, airframe and engine design to practices in construction facilities. It is recognized that this approach is increasingly important not only from an environmental perspective but also form a financial perspective for the manufacturer and the consumer. Switzerland – COG discussions The EC 635 is the military variant of the EC135. There were contract discussion between the manufacturer and the Swiss army on the centre of gravity envelope for normal operations. Although grounding the fleet was discussed this did not happen as the issue was resolved by the manufacturer. Recent incidents in Austria with EC135s tipping over backward were a result of human factors. One was a result of not having the skids fully on the ground and the other was a snow landing with the rear of the skids breaking through.

13

HEC Training Requirements – Gerold Biner, Air Zermatt, Switzerland The flowchart on the training requirements in Switzerland presented two years ago was used as a template to generate discussion on possible recommendations for criteria to establish training and operational standards. Recommendations could be used to present to the Swiss Federal Office of Civil Aviation (FOCA). An analysis of the IKAR/CISA reports between 2003 and 2007 revealed a significant number of accidents and incidents with HEC. These included fixed line and hoisting operations. There were a total of 21 HEC incidents including 27 fatalities. These numbers point to a requirement for strict training and operational regimens. The concept is to have increasingly stringent requirements for Human External Cargo work (HEC). This would require a training progression based on total flight hours, flight hours with non-human cargo and HEC work in varying terrain. A recommendation was made on this topic and can be found on the IKAR/CISA website as # 15. Training and Safety – Emmanuel Sillon, Gendarmerie Nationale, France The mountain flying training program in place since 1953 was presented. Between 1958 and 2008, the Gendarmerie Nationale has performed over 100,000 rescue operations across the country. Two the significant events in the evolution of mountain flying was the touchdown of a Bell 47 G2 on Mont Blanc in 1957 and the first rescue mission for the Gendarmerie in 1958 with an Aerospatiale Allouette II also on Mont Blanc. Training focuses on ground schools and flight training for pilots and hoist operators. Ground school briefings include environmental conditions specific to the mountain environment, mountain flying skills and the operational considerations for the mountain rescuers that will be deployed on the terrain. Training is done on all of the aircraft types. These include the EC 145, the EC135, the Allouette III and the AS350. The later two will soon be phased out. A minimum of 4 flight hours in hoist operations specific to each aircraft is required. The training philosophy focuses on safety, a team approach for the crew and operational capabilities.

14

Regulations vs Operations – Patrick Fauchère, Air-Glaciers, Switzerland. In this presentation, the importance of consulting industry regarding operational requirements before drafting regulations was emphasized. The European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) is in the process of drafting regulations for harness design. This would be done with a European Technical Standard Order (ETSO) for Class D operations. The other debate exists around the proposed JAR OPS 3 regulation for twin engine requirement on all HEMS operations. Rescue, Petit Clochet – Patrick Fauchère, Air-Glaciers, Switzerland. The various challenges presented by a rescue operation in technical terrain were presented. Two climbers were off route on this technical ascent. The lead climber fell and sustained critical injuries. He was hanging in his harness upside down in overhanging terrain. The patient was conscious after the fall. A mountain guide on the glacier below heard calls for help and this information was relayed to the rescue centre. A rescue crew operating nearby with an Alouette III responded immediately. Due to the nature of the Access to the axis overhanging terrain and the 40 metre limit on the cable hoist, it was not possible to hoist rescuers Intervention Axis directly to the site. A ledge for 40 metres to the side with an existing bolt belay was used. From this point, rescuers traversed across and then lowered to the patient. He was secured and lowered down to where they could be hoisted off. The patient lost vital signs before reaching the base of the wall. Tail Rotor Control at High Altitude – Karl Ockier, Eurocopter, Germany This presentation focussed on explaining the phenomena of tail rotor issues encountered by pilots. It was pointed out that modern engines are capable of producing more torque than tail rotors are able to compensate under all conditions. There was technical data presented to illustrate the limitations with tail rotor authority at altitude. One of the important conclusions is that when operating at high power settings, a yaw rate should never be allowed to develop.

15

Drop off area ( 2 spits, on site)

Crew Resource Management Oral presentations were delivered on crew resource management (CRM) programs as well as air medical resource management (AMRM) training programs taught to HEMS crews. The following comments were generated by participants; x In order to develop compliance with conducting post-mission debriefing sessions, air crews can be required to complete a logbook entry of whether mission was actually debriefed. x Integrate all rescue personnel as “flight crew members” versus separating them as passengers. x The U.S. Coast Guard employs the “GAR Model” as a planning tool in assessing risk. This involves quantifying the risk elements and developing a score that places the total risk in a green, amber or red category, which represents low risk, caution or high risk. x Be aware that the “hero mentality” of one pilot within an organization can cause excessive and dangerous pressure on all other pilots in the organization. x Rotor & Wing Magazine has provided an excellent “Webinar” on crew resource management, which has been available on the through their website. x An effective decision-making process employed by Air Glaciers (Switzerland) in deciding to launch on a mission involves “triple security” among crew members. Each crew members answers these questions regarding the mission; x Doctor- Is this a vital risk? x Pilot- Is the weather okay? x Guide/Rescuer- Are the hazards okay? x

It was noted that this process works well for night missions, but not as well for day missions.

Federal Government Follow-up on HEMS Safety, Ken Phillips, Grand Canyon National Park, USA On June 30 (the day following the Flagstaff mid-air collision), the FAA released a “Fact Sheet” titled EMS Helicopter Safety. The following elements were identified as the FAA’s immediate focus: 1. Risk management training. 2. Training for night and severe weather. 3. Collision avoidance technology. 4. Airline-type FAA oversight. Due to the dramatic number of HEMS accidents in the past year, the National Transportation Safety Board plans to hold a three-day HEMS Safety Hearing in Washington, DC starting on February 3, 2009. Witnesses from all EMS communities including pilots, medical personnel, managers and FAA will be involved. Discussions topics at the hearing will include: 16

x x x x x

Operational Structure and Models Flight Operations Aircraft Safety Equipment Training Oversight

Risk Management Best Practice - Ken Phillips, Grand Canyon National Park, USA Officials at Denali National Park & Preserve, AK, made a conscious decision to not remove the body of a 51 year-old guided climber who died on July 4, just below the 6,194 meter (20,320 feet) summit along a 152 meter (500 feet) knife-edge ridge. James Nasti became the 101st death on the mountain since 1932. According to the National Park Service, “considering the high risk involved in such a ground lowering, as well as the excessive risk of a helicopter recovery at this extreme elevation, the National Park Service has determined that the safest alternative is to leave the remains of the deceased climber on the mountain at this time.” Park rangers spoke directly with the victim’s wife, who concurred with the plan to leave him there. In 1988, a climber died at an elevation of 19,600-feet on a descent from the summit; the body was not recovered. The site would place the contracted NPS Lama helicopter close to the power margin at 90% torque with one person aboard. The plan was that if this were a live person, a rescue effort would proceed. A lowering operation would require a minimum of six persons and expose them to considerable risk. A body has been recovered previously at 5,243 meters (17,200 feet), however the preestablished “barrier” for a body recovery on Denali is 4,267 meters (14,000 feet), Joint Session with Medical Commission A joint session was held with both commissions. One of the works in progress between the two is to develop guidelines for medical certification on HEMS crews. A committee of members from both commissions will prepare a draft before the 2009 conference. IKAR/CISA 2009 It will be held in Zermatt Switzerland from September 22 to 27, 2009.

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8 – 11 October 2008 — Chamonix – Mont Blanc, France Prepared By: Dale Atkins Alpine Rescue Team PO Box 934 Evergreen, CO USA 80437 [email protected] The following report is based on notes and commentary by Atkins, and on the official minutes prepared by Mr. Robert Bissig (CH) and translated by Mr. Chris Utzinger (US). Special thanks goes to both men, and especially to Mr. Utzinger (Ravalli County Search and Rescue) who was not able to attend but has been instrumental in providing translations for the commission’s president and vice president for many years. INTRODUCTION The Avalanche Rescue Commission of IKAR meets yearly at the Annual Meeting of the IKAR. In some years a special winter skills meeting may be held. Within the Avalanche Rescue Commission is a sub-group of rescue dog handlers. These rescuers host typically a summer time meeting. (Details for the summer 2009 meeting are available later in this report.) It is my privilege to represent the MRA on the IKAR Avalanche Rescue Commission. I serve as the vice-president of the Avalanche Rescue Commission. The Mountain Rescue Association (MRA) benefits from participation in IKAR in many ways. Perhaps the most import benefit is the opportunity to gain knowledge and skills from the leaders of mountain rescue from around the world, especially in Europe. The knowledge and skills learned can help MRA teams and members do their jobs faster and safer. In recent years the reach of IKAR has been expanding beyond Europe and North America. Japanese representation has been present for several years, and this year New Zealand participated in the Commission’s meetings. The Avalanche Rescue Commission provides a forum discussion and exchange of ideas. The commission also generates guidelines related to avalanche rescue that are typically adopted at national levels. In the past, the Avalanche Rescue Commission recommended the use of the single 457 kHz frequency for avalanche rescue beacons and of the international 5-level danger ratings. The Avalanche Rescue Commission is a comprehensive composite of the international avalanche community with representation from national mountain rescue associations, avalanche research and forecasting institutions, national alpine clubs, and avalanche-rescue equipment manufacturers.

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OCTOBER 8, MEETINGS & WORKSHOP Avalanche Rescue Dog Handlers The Avalanche Rescue Dog Group is a small group of dedicated handlers that share interests and skills between the Avalanche Rescue Commission and the Terrestrial Commission; however, their numbers are too few to create a new Rescue Dog Commission. It is the hope of this group (and of this author) that more time and resources will be provided to this group at future IKAR congresses. Dog handlers from 9 member countries meet during the late afternoon. Dean Cardinale and Jake Hutchinson, fellow US IKAR-member organization Wasatch Backcountry Rescue (UT), ably represented the US interests. Important actions from the group include: • • •

Seeking an information exchange on trainings that could lead to training standards. Establishing the work group described by Lunde earlier (work group was formally established) Summer meeting at Mt Velebit, Baske Ostarije, Croatia on June 11–14, 2009. Topic will be “Summer Search”. For additional information please visit/contact: o www.gss.hr o Josip Granic - +38 598 611484, [email protected] o Andrea Pintar - +38 598 314256, [email protected]

The minutes of the Avalanche Rescue Dog Group are available on the IKAR website: http://www.ikar-cisa.org/ikar-cisa/documents/2008/ikar20081208000260.pdf Field Day Workshop The Terrestrial Commission organized a field day session at Les Grands Montets, a very popular winter ski resort located in Argentière, just up valley from Chamonix-Mont Blanc. The day started with two cable car rides ferrying participants nearly 5000 vertical feet to the glaciers at the top of the Grands Montets. The field day provides participants time to observe and/or try new techniques or rescue equipment that is provided by different rescue teams or manufacturers. Below are some photos of the field day. Additional details will likely be provided in the Terrestrial Report as this author was instructing at the RECCO Rescue System station. More than 100 rescuers participated in the day’s activities.

The base area at Les Grands Montets.

The top of the Grands Montets. Twenty-five years ago, one walked out on to snow. Since then, the glaciers have melted dramatically.

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An adjustable length pole with a quick clip allows a rescuer to quickly attach a line to a stuck person.

Crevasse rescue demo. A sailing block and tackle rig was used so only one hauler was needed.

A sailing block and tackle – probably a 6:1 – was used so only one hauler was needed

PGHM demonstrate and radio / GPS system that provides real time mapping and locating of field teams. .

RECCO Rescue System training with new R9 Detector.

RECCO Rescue System training with new R9 Detector.

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The German Bergwach demonstrate a portable, manual rope winch

The German Bergwach demonstrating their winch. Austrian demonstrating moving along fixed ropes.

OCTOBER 9, COMMISSION MEETING Commission president Hans-Jürg Etter (CH) welcomed 61 participants from 19 countries as the formal meeting started in the top floor of the revered Maison de la Montagne. The meeting kicked off with a presentation by La Chamoniarde’s (Chamonix High Mountain Office) of their new winter safety video (http://www.chamonet.com/the-mountains/mountain-safety-and-awareness.htm). Mr. Etter was joined by the commission’s vice president, Dale Atkins (US). The meeting was held in both German and English with Mr. Manuel Genswein (CH) serving ably as translator. Summary of Avalanche Accidents, 2007–08 USA: The 36 avalanche fatalities were the greatest number killed since the early mining days (late 1800s to early 1900s). It was an extraordinary winter as all the deaths and nearly all accidents were concentrated into a three-month period. In Utah, Wasatch Backcountry Rescue reported 8 helicopter bases and helicopters are equipped with Barryvox VS 2000 Pro Ext and external antennas. External helicopter antennas are also used by Teton County, Wyoming, and King County, Washington. Norway: The 2007/2008 winter was the third mildest winter on record. There were 32 avalanche rescue missions with 4 fatalities.

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France: The fewest number accidents since 1989, because the weather and snow conditions were good during the main season. There were 29 avalanche fatalities in 15 accidents. A single accident on the Mt. Blanc du Tacul on August 24 killed 8 climbers. Among out-of-bounds skiers and riders, there was a decline from 12 to 3 fatalities, compared to the previous year. Italy: The weather conditions were similar to those in France. There were 36 avalanche accidents in which 17 people died. Remarkable were the concentration of accidents in mid January, the increasing number of snowmobile accidents (uncommon in Europe), and 8 buried victims in the summer. Germany: There were 3 avalanche accidents in the Allgäu, Mittenwald and Garmisch, (Zugspitz area) with 2 fatalities and 2 injuries. Catalonia: Due to the shallow snowpack, there were only 2 accidents. In one accident 2 died. Canada: The 18 avalanche fatalities were slightly above the 10-year average of 15. Special accidents include one fatality on an open ski run as well as one in a closed portion of a ski area. Spain: There were 4 avalanche fatalities in 8 accidents (3 in the Pyrenees and 1 in the Sierra Nevada). Switzerland: There were 89 accidents with injuries or deaths and 27 with property damage. In January, there was a concentration of accidents. Among the 151 people caught in avalanches, there were 11 fatalities and 33 injuries. Overall, there were fewer avalanche deaths but with more close calls resulting in a higher than average number of people caught. Risk Management – Mr. Etter addressed the topic of risk management and described a case where the rescue operation had to be suspended because of weather conditions increasing the risks to rescuers before the victim could be found. The case reminded rescuers of the needs to balance risk and potential success, to maintain safety. Resource Shortage – Mr. Markus Wray (Alpine Rettung Schweiz, CH) presented an extraordinarily situation when weather, avalanches, and an international ski race conspired to hobble rescuers. On 13 January 2008, 30-40 cm of new snow resulted 8 avalanche accidents; 5 of the accidents were within 40 km of Davos and 3 became actual call outs. The area was left critically short of helicopters because of a World Cup ski race at Lauberhorn (near Wengen). The situation was handled, though with some difficulty. The message was not to forget to maintain sufficient rescue resources at home even when a national event draws away resources. Results From 2008 Workgroups NOTE: All recommendations (below) produced during this year’s Avalanche Rescue Commission meeting by the Work Groups have been approved by the Avalanche Rescue Commission, and have been passed along to the general membership of IKAR for consideration/consultation. The membership has 1 year to review and revise the commission’s recommendation, upon which the General Assembly will adopt the recommendation at the next annual meeting in September 2010. Glossary and Standardization of Key Terms, D. Atkins and M. Genswein: Atkins migrated the 15-year-old IKAR glossary (prepared by Pavle Segula (SL)) into Microsoft Word. The goal is to expand the glossary from 6 languages to 13+. Currently the glossary covers more than 1700 snow- and avalanche-related terms. The glossary will be made available on the IKAR website, both as a download (.doc format) and as a searchable on-line glossary. The glossary will also be linked to other international glossaries in member countries.

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Genswein presented a draft of standardized key terms for search phases. The common terms are primarily used for transceiver searching; however, can be applied to all search methods. Standardizing the terms allows for easier exchange across languages. The recommendation REC L 0009 is available on the IKAR website: http://www.ikar-cisa.org/ikar-cisa/documents/2008/ikar20081208000268.pdf Avalanche Prevention and Best Practices, Clair Isrelson (CA): Over the past couple of years Isrelson has directed a team to survey avalanche prevention efforts in various countries to define the best practices. 13 countries participated in this first-of-its kind study, information was reported voluntarily and might be incomplete. Results were categorized into the following 5 sections: • Public avalanche / weather forecasts • Avalanche education for recreationists • Safety of public and private infrastructure • Safety precautions for rescue units • Organization of avalanche rescue Details about the study can be found on the Canadian Avalanche Association’s web site: www.avalanche.ca From the study the following recommendation was made. 1. A credible professional organization issues scheduled avalanche forecasts for popular winter mountain recreation areas. 2. Avalanche training courses for nonprofessionals are readily available. 3. Comprehensive programs protect highly used public places from avalanches. 4. Avalanche professionals require specialized training / credentials / certifications. 5. Organized avalanche rescue services exist for all avalanche prone areas of the country. The complete recommendation proposed by the Avalanche Rescue Commission, REC L 0008 is available on the IKAR website: http://www.ikar-cisa.org/ikar-cisa/documents/2008/ikar20081208000265.pdf Search Strip Widths, Jürge Schweizer (CH): [Note: The following is from the official minutes, with minor edits for readability. DA] Defining a search strip width means finding an optimal balance between chances of survival and probability of detection. Schweizer provides a review of previous studies. Subsequent to the discussion of the topic in Pontresina, Genswein developed a simulation to determine a search strip width that provides optimal chances of survival. Schweizer expands on technical aspects and describes 4 different methods/variations of determining a search strip width. In the discussion, method 3 (incl. the simulation) finds acceptance. This method has the specific advantage of taking technical innovation into consideration, without having to modify the system. Franz Kröll (Ortovox) mentions that he will verify the method with his own data. Schweizer’s preferred method is the following: 1. All manufacturers of avalanche rescue beacons shall determine the so-called “realistic maximum range” as specified in the appendix. 2. The signal search strip width to be marked on the transceiver is then (a) about equal to 1.25 (± 0.1) times the realistic maximum range for beacons without digital signal processing (DSP), (b) about equal to 1.35 (± 0.1) times the realistic maximum range for beacons with 1 receiving antenna and with DSP, and (c) about equal to 1.45 (± 0.1) times the realistic maximum range for beacons with 2 receiving antenna and with DSP. 3. In the user manual the manufacturer shall specify the type of cooperation required by the rescuer (for example, the need to slowly rotate the transceiver during signal search).

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Schweizer’s proposal for the determination of the optimal search strip width (useful range) is accepted unanimously as an ICAR recommendation. The complete recommendation proposed by the Avalanche Rescue Commission, REC L 0007 is available on the IKAR website: http://www.ikar-cisa.org/ikar-cisa/documents/2008/ikar20081208000262.pdf New Workgroup for 2009 Information for Dog Handlers, Albert Lunde (Norwegian Red Cross, NO) proposed formally investigating success factors in the use of avalanche dogs. Years ago Atkins described some common experiences, but no formal studies have been done with avalanche rescue dogs and handlers. Lunde told that in Norway behavioral differences between training and missions are starting to be observed. He proposed a study that would seek to identify qualitative and quantitative key factors for the efficient deployment of avalanche dogs and derive recommendations to improve training for both dogs and handlers. The commission voted to approve a new working group headed by Lunde who will draft a working document with the purpose of the project and send it to the member organizations. This winter the avalanche dog handlers sub group will meet, as already planned, and further discuss a new formation of the group. Heini Malue (Bergwacht Bayern, DE) will keep minutes of that meeting. Avalanche Accident Statistics, 2007–08 The 156 reported avalanche deaths (table 1), from member countries, were slightly above to the long-term (25) average of 154 deaths. However, when compared to the previous 10-year period, avalanche deaths last winter were very slightly, 1% from 158 to 156. While last winter’s avalanche deaths were similar to the 10-year average, last winter’s number was up significantly when compared to the 10-year period from 1987/88 to 1998/99. (Avalanche fatalities are tallied over the hydrologic year from 1 October to 30 September.) From 1987/88 to 1998/99 avalanche deaths averaged 136 per winter. Table 2 provides a percent comparison by activity for last winter and the two previous 10-year periods. Note worthy was last winter’s decline in Free Ride (Out-of-area) deaths from the previous 10 years. This decline was probably due to the remarkably strong snow cover enjoyed by the western European countries. The large percentage of people killed in buildings during the 1997/98 to 2006/07 period can be directly attributed to the huge number of people killed (76) in buildings in the Alps during the winter of 1998/99. In the past 25 years the next highest number was only 13 killed, in 1983/84. Snowmobile deaths have risen steadily in North America over the past 20 years. (Tables 1 and 2 are located on page 8.)

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Country

Backcountry Freeride In Ski skiing / (off piste / Area Alpinist snowboard out-of-area) (piste) –

–

–

Roads –

Buildings

Snowmobile

–

–

Other –

Total

Andorra

–

Austria

19

7

0

2

0

0

0

1

NR

Bulgaria

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

Canada

5

0

1

3

0

0

7

2

18

29

Croatia

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

Czech Republic

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

France

14

3

0

12

0

0

0

0

29

Germany

1

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

Great Britain

–

Iceland Ireland

0 –

– 0 –

–

–

0

0

–

– 0

–

–

–

–

0

0

–

–

1

– 0

NR 0

–

NR

Italy

8

4

0

1

0

0

4

0

17

Liechtenstein

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

Norway

2

0

0

0

0

0

1

1

4

Poland

1

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

2

Romania

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

Switzerland

4

2

1

3

1

0

0

0

11

Slovakia

2

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

2

Slovania Spain & Cantalonia Sweden USA

0

0

0

1

0

0

0

0

1

3

0

0

0

0

0

0

6

0 7

0 1

0 2

0 0

0 2

0 13

0 3

0 36

3 0 8

Total

67

26

3

25

1

2

25

7

156

%%.%

43.0

16.7

1.9

16.0

0.6

1.3

16.0

4.5

100.0

Table 1. Avalanche deaths from IKAR countries, 2007/08.

2007/08

PERCENT 1997/98–2006/07 10-yr mean

1987/88–1998/99 10-yr mean

Backcountry skiing & snowboarding

43.0

39.4

43.8

Free ride

16.7

23.9

20.7

In Area

1.9

0.8

2.8

Alpinist

16.0

13.8

20.2

Roads

0.6

1.5

1.5

Buildings

1.3

5.7

1.4

Snowmobiles Others

16.0 4.5

9.5 5.4

3.9 5.7

100.0%

100.0%

100.0%

activity

TOTALS

Table 2. Comparison of the percentage of avalanche deaths by activity over the past 20 years. .

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OCTOBER 10, JOINT AVALANCHE & TERRESTRIAL COMMISSION PRESENTATIONS A brief summary of the avalanche-oriented presentations are offered below. Active Personal Protection Gear for Avalanche Rescue: Past and Future Developments A joint presentation by John Michalle Schmetz (FR) and Manuel Genswein (CH). This presentation was focused around the history and the future of air-bag systems. The first commercial system (Avalanche Air Bag System, ABS) was presented in 1985. Since then there have been 200 well documented uses of the system in 167 avalanches. Of the 200 uses, in 180 cases the air bag was deployed successfully, however, in 20 cases the air bag was not deployed successfully. Of the 20 cases it was determined the problem was human caused. The most frequent mistake (12) was not pulling the release handle. In 2 cases the cartridge was empty. In two single cases the handle was missing or torn off. The situation of not pulling the handle occurred from both intentional and unintentional actions where victims either could not, forgot to, or chose not to pull the handle. Genswein proposed a possible solution using a remote trigger mechanism. The concept is simple, and users would have primary control; however, a remote triggering could deploy the system if the user were unable to. The configuration would follow master/master or master/slave arrangements where someone in the “community” (group) could trigger the air bag. Air bag systems have been shown effective in preventing burial and saving lives. This extra feature could be a helpful, so study and development will continue. 3x3 (Risk Assessment) in Winter Rescue Operations. Theo Maurer (CH) shared a practical decision support tool developed and used by Alpine Rettung Schweiz. The matrix compares weather conditions, terrain, and human factors at three levels: before the mission, in planning and site operations, and in the continuous reassessment of risk. From the matrix a GO/NO GO guide is determined. Location Means by High Frequency Radio Waves Arne Bestmann (DE) of the private German Lambda 4 research group presented an intriguing working prototype of a future rescue tool that uses high frequency radio waves. A bit like a hightech version of RECCO this system is directional, but uses higher frequencies and a battery powered reflector. Lambda 4 admits to many hurdles that must be overcome, so the functioning prototype is a very long ways away from even being tested in the field, but it does provide some insight to what the future might have in store for rescuers. Besmann resports they will be working with rescue experts to learn more of the needs for organized rescue. (www.lambda4.com) The Efficiency of Companion Rescuers with Minimal Training Manual Genswein (CH) presented a research project that looked at companion transceiver rescue and found that even with minimal amounts of training people can be turned into effective rescuers. Some results from his study include: • deep burials (3m) take a very long time to dig, • maybe better to move on if encountering a deep burial, in a multi-burial situation • triple antenna beacons were faster in the hands of inexperienced users • marking function did not always work in multiple burial situations • performance increased when instructors applied rules strictly • performance also increased when problems in drills were stopped and corrected quickly The RECCO R9 Detector: Development and Cooperation Plans of Advanced Rescue Technology for Rescue Teams. Dale Atkins, (RECCO AB, US) shared the history and development of the RECCO Rescue System’s new 9th generation detector. Atkins also shared insights about the entire network of users that includes rescue teams, clothing, boot, and helmet brands, professional athletes. and outdoor enthusiasts and how all benefit by supporting RECCO. The presentation ended with some new training tips for using RECCO detectors. (www.recco.com).

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Avalanche Beacons: Ensuring interoperability and backward compatibility Rolf Matzner (Ortovox, DE) gave an interesting talk behind the philosophy and design criteria for Ortovox.avalanche rescue beacons. Matzner’s talk described the human factors involved when man uses a machine and how these relate to new and old avalanche beacons, plus he also covered the problems and solutions for ensuring old beacons will work with today’s and tomorrow’s transceivers. Current technology, actually it is old technology, limits the future potential of avalanche rescue beacons. Avalanche Accident in Tatra Mountains Slavek Riemen (PL) presented an interesting case report where organized rescue replaced companion rescue efforts. A very experienced group (considerable time in the Himalayas) of climbers were following a ridge line when a cornice collapsed, sweeping one member down the mountainside. His companions were un-willing to start a companion rescue because they deemed conditions too dangerous. A mobile phone call to the rescue base mobilized a helicopter and rescuers. The rescue team flew to the site, found the injured man and evacuated him to the hospital within 45 minutes of the accident. This accident was remarkably similar to an accident that occurred near Loveland Pass, Colorado (April 2008). There a cornice collapsed catching a snowshoer who was buried with her arm out. Her companion could no see her and could not easily descend. He called 911 for help. Rescuers flew to the site, spotted the victim, evacuated her to the hospital, and were back searching for her companion, when we finally reached the debris. Today, any many situations, organized avalanche rescue in the US is notified and responds fast. However, this attitude is oddly not recognized by many rescuers who still perceive the notification and response effort as it occurred a generation ago. Sometimes organized rescue directly assists companion rescue efforts, and in a few cases, even takes the place of companion rescue. OCTOBER 11, PRESENTATIONS TO JOINT SESSION – ALL COMMISSIONS A morning session of presentations were available to members of all commissions. The presentations represented activities in each of the main commissions. Only a brief summary of the avalanche-oriented presentations are offered below. Mt. Blanc du Tacul Jean Louis Verdier (FR - Chamonix-Mont Blanc) and Regis Lavergne (FR - PGHM) described the difficulties and challenges faced by rescuers when a large avalanche struck one of the traditional climbing route on Mt. Blanc. More than 40 climbers were on the route when the avalanche – triggered by a serac fall – swept down at 03h. The PGHM launched an immediate and large response that involved French and Italian rescuers and 4 helicopters. By the end of the day, eight climbers were missing and presumed to have been buried and killed in the avalanche. Remarkably, only 7 climbers required hospitalization, but even their injuries were relatively light: cuts, bruises, and fractures. Dangerous conditions prevented on-the-ground searching in many areas of the glacier, so bodies were left in-situ. As snow melts the area will be revisited and appropriate actions taken. Virtual Communities and Social Networks: New Resources for Mountain Rescue Dale Atkins (US) presented how virtual communities and social networks (Internet based), have changed how information is exchanged. Not only has how information exchanged changed, but also the rate and reach of the exchange has changed tremendously in recent years. Atkins described how social networking can benefit rescue teams at the operational level, and how they might also cause problems, too. Atkins presented several successful and unsuccessful uses of social networks in SAR operations. Concluding points for mountain rescue teams included:

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• should have a small and creditable presence on web sites (social networks and virtual communities) • educate community how to report mountain accidents • educate community how mountain rescue works • be willing to accept their assistance Times have changed regarding the use and flow of information, and rescuers can likely benefit by adopting new attitudes and technologies that can assist in both operational settings and in more general situations, like safety and prevention. Issues and Suggested Best Practices for Avalanche Safety Programs Clair Israelson (CA) presented the same presentation his work group presented to the Avalanche Rescue Commission. OCTOBER 11, BOARD MEETING AND ASSEMBLY OF THE DELEGATES The afternoon of the last day was spent on IKAR business. A short Board of Directors meeting was held right after lunch, which was followed by Reports of the Commission Presidents. Later in the afternoon the Assembly of Delegates (voting members) met to vote on membership issues, recommendations, and general business issues. No actions were taken affecting the Avalanche Rescue Commission. 2009 MEETING – ZERMATT, CH - 22–27 SEPTEMBER The 61st IKAR Congress will be hosted by the Kantonalen Walliser Rettungsorganisation (KWRO) and the Zermatt Rescue Station in late September. The congress has been moved earlier by several weeks to fit with the International Snow Science Workshop – Davos, to be held 27 September to 2 October. RECOMMENDATION REGARDING THE MRA INVOLVEMENT IN FUTURE IKAR MEETINGS It is this writer’s opinion the MRA remain involved in IKAR. The exchange of ideas, knowledge, and skills, is of huge benefit to the MRA membership. The analysis, consideration and/or application of this information, skills, and equipment can benefit all teams from training to actual mission operations. IKAR can help MRA teams become better, safer, and more efficient rescuers. The challenge to the MRA is better bring and share this knowledge to the MRA community. I look forward to helping.

DISCLOSURE I, Dale Atkins, am a volunteer MRA member (Alpine Rescue Team, Evergreen CO) and I am also employed by RECCO AB. RECCO AB, paid for my travel, lodging, and congress fees to the 2008 IKAR congress, reducing the costs of the MRA’s participation. I am very aware of the potential for conflict of interests and have in the past withdrawn myself from specific voting actions. During the 2008 meeting no voting took place involving the RECCO system.

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NOTES _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________

ITRS 2009