HUNGARY &THE CZECH REPUBLIC: BIRDS &MUSIC FROM BUDAPEST TO PRAGUE SEPTEMBER 12-27, 2015

LEADERS: VICTOR EMANUEL BARRY LYON BALAZS SZIGETI

COMPILED BY: BARRY LYON

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TX 78746 www.ventbird.com

HUNGARY & THE CZECH REPUBLIC: Birds & Music from Budapest to Prague September 12–27, 2015 By Barry Lyon Replete with historical and cultural attractions, Budapest and Prague are revered as some of the world’s most beautiful and charming cities. Among birders, Hungary and the Czech Republic are not as well-known as many destinations but, in fact, offer some of the finest avian riches on the entire European continent. On this first-of-a-kind tour for VENT, we presented, in a single program, a Birds & Music tour that encompassed some of the best natural history and cultural attributes that this part of the world has to offer. From a birding standpoint, the trip was incredible, with many standout highlights from our time in both countries which demonstrated just how much there is to see in Eastern Europe. For two weeks we traced a route that took us from the wetlands and hills of Hungary to the mountain forests of the Czech Republic, accruing one memorable experience after another. In Hungary the gathering of Great Bustards, several White-tailed Eagles, and flocks of European Bee-eaters in Kiskunsag National Park made for a prime opening day; a day-roost of Long-eared Owls, a field full of beautiful Red-footed Falcons, European Rollers, a Black Stork, and near side by side views of Imperial Eagle and Saker Falcon near the town of Tiszaalpar made for another astonishing day; and, of course, the dramatic sighting of a Ural Owl hunting in a forest-ringed mountain meadow of Bükk National Park was Long-eared Owl © Mahlon Hale sublime. As advertised, Hungary’s historical and cultural heritage received strong emphasis, and our natural history pursuits were supplemented by an array of interesting and fun activities including the chance to ride a narrow-gauge railroad through the wetlands of Hortobágy National Park; tour a wine cellar—like something out of Edgar Allan Poe—in the Bükk Mountains that included a tasting of the famous “Bull’s Blood” wine; stop in at the Cistercian Abbey of Belapatfalva, the oldest Romanesque church in Hungary; and, for a most remarkable activity, visit the medieval “Farkasko” tufa dwelling below the town of Nosvaj. Our time in Hungary wrapped up with a superb tour of Budapest, the Hungarian capital famously bisected by the Danube River. With an excellent local guide we visited many of the city’s iconic sites including the Széchenyi Bath House, Basilica of St. Stevens, the Chain Bridge, the Orthodox and Dohany synagogues in the Jewish quarter, St. Matthias Church, Fisherman’s

Bastion in Buda Castle, and the Royal Palace.That evening we were treated to the first of three musical performances: a private chamber orchestra in an intimate concert hall. It was a beautiful way to end a beautiful day. Our time in the Czech Republic demonstrated why a visit to this country makes for a perfect complement to our stay in Hungary. Whereas Hungary is a lowland country of wide-open spaces, the Czech Republic is more heavily forested and with more contour to the landscape. Yet, as with Hungary, the Czech Republic offers excellent birding and the cultural highlights to match. Birding outside of Trebon yielded resplendent Great Crested Grebes, Red-crested Pochards, and Middle Spotted and Gray-headed woodpeckers, while Trebon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, hosted historical attractions such as picturesque Masaryk Square and its famous Plague Column. The next day we found ourselves in the beautifully preserved medieval village of Cesky Krumlov, another World Heritage Site, complete with winding cobblestone lanes, a bustling central plaza, and a centuries-old castle—all begging for exploration. Meanwhile, the Vlatava River wound around two sides of the town, at one point forming a rapid below a weir designed to regulate the water flow. Despite the presence of people, the area below the weir hosted a wonderful collection of birds including scads of Black Redstarts, Gray and White wagtails, and, most memorably, our only Hungarian Parliament Building © Barry Lyon White-throated Dipper of the trip. Our entry into the Sumava Mountains region heralded many exciting bird observations to come. Here, amid stands of Norway Spruce and stubble pasturelands of early autumn, we were treated to a parade of birds that could not have made our day in and around Sumava National Park any better. Highlights from our time in the field included a flock of Mistle Thrushes and Fieldfares; a gorgeous Northern Shrike hunting unconcernedly at close range; an arresting male Black Woodpecker atop a spruce; a single Crested Tit scolding from only yards away; and an eleventhhour find of a seldom-seen Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker. And before heading to Prague the next afternoon, the avian jewels continued around our hotel with fine sightings of the bunting known as Yellowhammer, and marvelous views of Eurasian Bullfinch, one of Europe’s loveliest birds.

Our tour wrapped up in Prague, the wonderland of a city that is the Czech capital. With a little over a day here, we partook in a guided city tour that hit most of the essential highlights including Prague Castle and the beautiful St. Vitus Cathedral; the famous Charles Bridge; the Old Town District where we saw the remarkable Astronomical Clock; the Old-New Synagogue in the historic Jewish ghetto; and Wenceslas Square in New Town. For a finale on each of our two nights here, we attended musical performances in two of the city’s great concert halls, audience to the sounds of Beethoven, Dvorak, Mozart, and others. Birds, music, and culture. What a combination. What a trip.

Itinerary September 12, 2015 – Tour participants departed from home today (if not sooner) aboard international flights to Hungary. September 13 – Following the overnight transit, most participants arrived in Budapest in the early afternoon, at which time we met our tour leaders, Victor Emanuel and Barry Lyon, and our ground operator, Balazs Szigeti of Ecotours Wildlife Holidays. Upon our initial gathering, we boarded a small bus for the sixty minute transfer to the Forster Palace Hotel, located outside the village of Bugyi, our home for the next three nights. After check-in and time to settle into our rooms, we participated in an optional late afternoon birding walk on the lovely grounds of the hotel. Our first outing could not have been more productive as we located a surprisingly high diversity of birds. Many of the species were relatively common and widespread European birds such as Common Wood-Pigeon, Great and Blue Eurasian Nuthatch © Mahlon Hale tits, and Eurasian Nuthatch, while others were far more unexpected, such as Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Wood Warbler, Eurasian Siskin, and our first Hawfinches. It should be noted that the later arriving tour participants arrived at the hotel around 5:30 in the afternoon. The day concluded with dinner and a formal trip introduction and orientation. September 14 – The day began with an optional morning walk on the hotel grounds, essentially repeating the activity of the previous afternoon, before going to breakfast. The plan for the day was to explore the regions south and east of Bugyi that comprise the patchwork of habitats that is Kiskunsag National Park. The main objective was locating Great Bustard, but our travels would also take us to a weltand complex that serves as a commercial fish farming operation. Soon after leaving the hotel, our bustard search began in earnest as we cruised east along the road that transected the expanses of cropland on either side. On this morning the bustards proved scarce, with only a brief sighting of some distant birds to show for our efforts. The endeavor was certainly not fruitless, however, as we did see plenty of birds including our first White-tailed Eagle, Eurasian Marsh-Harrier, European Roller, Red-backed Shrike, and others.

By late morning we were ready to shift gears and sample another area. Not far away was a vast wetland that doubles as a commercial fish farm (called fish ponds in eastern Europe) and that fills the role akin to our national wildlife refuges. Here, the myriad lakes and canals support impressive numbers of waterfowl and shorebirds while the adjacent fields host raptors and an array of landbirds. We spent most of the rest of the day at this location, and the birding was wonderful. Our patience and careful vigilance were rewarded with sightings of Imperial Eagle, several species of ducks and grebes, European Bee-eaters, and many others. By late afternoon it was time to return to the hotel. The route back to Bugyi saw us on the same highway on which we had traveled in the morning. This time we managed to catch up with the bustards. In one field we had scope studies of a fairly distant individual bird while farther along we spent time watching a group of half a dozen or so birds. This experience was gratifying to say the least. We arrived back at the hotel in the late afternoon. September 15 – Our success with the bustard on the previous day allowed for some play in the program. We had the option of staying in the Kiskunsag region and exploring points farther south, or we could travel a little further afield and go after some bigger game, i.e. other specialty birds of Hungary. We opted for the latter. Lying from one to two hours east of Bugyi is a region containing the large wetland complex known as the Tiszaalpar Marsh, around which are miles of Hungarian steppe country consisting of agricultural lands mixed with remnant native grasslands. The area is known among local birders as one of the better places to find Imperial Eagle and Saker Falcon while the marsh itself is a good place to study an assortment of waterfowl, wading birds, and shorebirds. First, however, we had other business to attend to. En route to the Tiszaalpar region, our first stop of the day occurred at the town Red-backed Shrike, Immature © Mahlon Hale of Kiskunfelegyadza, where we traveled to the small public square close to the city center. Here we were treated to one of the great sites of the trip—a roost of Long-eared Owls. Remarkably, these birds gather in large numbers following the breeding season, and the trees that people plant in small towns serve as perfect shelter for the owls. It was strange to see a highly nocturnal bird so well in broad daylight. I believe we determined there to be about fifteen birds present at this roost. Needless to say we saw them well and at length. Departing Kiskunfelegyadza, the route to Tiszaalpar took us northeast into a region of extensive pasturelands. No sooner were we on our way when we stopped again to observe a group of about

a dozen Red-footed Falcons hunting over a field adjacent to the highway. This was a special moment, and signaled obvious success in finding another bird high on our wish list. Farther along we stopped to scope a late migrating European Roller before continuing on to Tiszaalpar. Not far from the town limits we turned down a side road to make our first stab at Imperial Eagle and Saker Falcon; however, we were unsuccessful on both fronts. In Tiszaalpar we lunched on traditional goulash before making our way to the wetland on the backside of the village. As it turned out, we spent a couple of hours atop the bluff overlooking the wetland below. Birds were plentiful but not exactly close. Nevertheless, we enjoyed scope views of many species of birds. A local park ranger who accompanied us today presented an overview of the regional ecology, which was appreciated. Departing Tiszaalpar, we retraced our route out of town. We thought the afternoon hours would be more conducive to finding the highly sought birds of prey on which we had previously missed. So, we returned to the same set of fields that we visited before lunch, but this time the results were quite different. First, we located Red-footed Falcon, Female © Mahlon Hale an adult Imperial Eagle perched in the dead top of a tree about one-hundredfifty yards away. After enjoying tremendous scope views, we located an adult Saker Falcon atop a power pole on the opposite field of view. Wow! After a solid hour of viewing, a time in which both birds stayed put, we had to force ourselves to reboard the vehicle and return to the hotel. September 16 – Today was a transition day as we relocated from the lowlands to the foothill ecosystem of the BukkMountains (hills, really). Working off of the previous day’s success, we again found ourselves with some latitude in our planning of the daily itinerary, so we decided to visit Hortobagy National Park, a place not that dissimilar to the Kiskunsag region, a land of grasslands, pastures, and vast wetlands. The drive to the Hortobagy would take about three hours, which was fine as it allowed for some relaxation time in the vehicle. And besides, the route to the Hortobagy more or less was the direction we need to be going anyway. The Hortobagy is a big place. Like Kiskunsag National Park, Hortobagy National Park is not a contiguous tract of land, but rather pieces of protected land that together comprise the national park. The area we chose to visit supports the largest wetland complex in eastern Hungary, a vast

system of fish ponds that serves as one of the centers of the park. Here, a visitor center and public facilities signal the site’s importance, but it is the presence of a narrow-gauge train makes the area so attractive. The train operates to ferry visitors about three miles into the wetlands, where, at the end of the rail line, a boardwalk extends into a sprawling marsh where scores of waterbirds may be seen. We would partake in this activity, and would be glad we did. This area is where we saw our only Ferruginous Ducks, Pygmy Cormorants, and Common Cranes of the trip, in addition to a multitude of other waterbirds. We stayed in this general area until about 4:00, at which time we Narrow-Gauge Railroad, Hortobagy National Park © Barry Lyon reboardedthe vehicle and made our way to the Bukk Mountains. The drive took about an hour and a half and brought exposure to plenty of pastoral settings. Our hotel was situated in the town of Nosvaj (pronounced Nozh-vie), amid gently contoured hills blanketed largely in deciduous forest. After check-in, we settled into our rooms before reconvening for dinner. Tonight we traveled a short distance to the Thumerer Pince winery, a special treat that included a tour of a wine cellar that was like something out of Edgar Allen Poe, followed by a delicious meal and wine tasting. September 17 – Our first of two full days in the Bukk region began with a trip to the plateau, which essentially is the top of the Bukk range where it flattens into a forest-ringed shallow valley. It took a while to get up there, but upon arrival we were greeted to a lovely setting dominated by a conifer-beech woodland and hay pastures. We spent the entire morning on the plateau birding along the paved road and exploring several of the dirt forest roads that radiated laterally into the surrounding forest. At this elevation, and in this habitat, birds are thinner at this season, but we still managed our first Common Ravens, our first Goldcrests, and our best looks at Coal Tit. Following a picnic lunch on a sun-splashed early afternoon, we opted to experience more of the forest by means of a walk along the paved road that lead downhill through the surrounding beech

woodland. This activity was an enjoyable one. Again, birds were thin, but the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the forest landscape certainly contributed to our sense of place here in Hungary. The sun-dappled forest floor and the boughs of the trees swaying in the breeze offered a pleasing sensual experience. Around 2:30 we reboarded the vehicle and began the return to Nosvaj. En route we stopped in the town of Belapatfalva to tour the name-sake Cistercian Abbey, a medieval monastery constructed in the thirteenth century and which today stands as the best-preserved Roamanesque church in Hungary. After the tour we continued back to the hotel, arriving in the late afternoon. Dinner tonight was a delicious array of Hungarian dishes. September 18 – Our day kicked off with a pre-breakfast birding walk around the hotel and to the small reservoir above. This outing proved highly productive as we encountered a wonderful variety of local birds including resident species joined by southbound migrants. Eurasian Green Woodpecker, Firecrest, Long-tailed and Marsh tits, Song Thrush, Tree Pipit, and Eurasian Siskin were just some of the great birds we saw this morning. After breakfast we loaded up and traveled the short distance downhill to the town of Bogac for some late morning birding at a medium-size reservoir called Hor Volgyi Viztarozo. Here, we found ourselves in the sun with little shade, which was unfortunate, but the birding was excellent, which was very fortunate. After an hour of watching the lake and exposed shoreline, we’d logged an impressive diversity of birds, several of which were new to the trip including European Turtle-Dove, Stock Dove, and Western Yellow Wagtail. One of the real highlights of our time here was the sighting at close range of an immature Imperial Eagle that made pass after pass in front of us and overhead, affording tremendous views. Eurasian Green Woodpecker © Mahlon Hale

We returned to the hotel for lunch and a short break before we turned our sights on another part of the national park. This time we would stay on the front side of the Bukk range with a trip to the forests and meadows of the Cserepfalu region, located a little south and east of Nosvaj. The drive to the park headquarters took about 30 minutes, at which time, roughly, we boarded an open safari-type vehicle for a trip deep into the park’s interior. We made several stops along the way for opportunities to experience the forest and its birds. Given the time of day, we didn’t

exactly light it up bird-wise, yet we did manage some nice sightings of Great Spotted Woodpecker, Eurasian Nuthatch, and our first Eurasian Wren of the trip. A dip on the elusive White-backed Woodpecker was made up for by what was to come. After a time, the road eventually led into a beautiful complex of natural meadows and pasturelands surrounded by heavy forest. Although our elevation was fairly low, the landscape around us was reminiscent of a high-mountain ecosystem. The objective here was to give ourselves a chance to see the Ural Owl, one of the most sought-after of Hungarian birds, and a bird that often can be seen in the late afternoon.

Ural Owl Habitat, Bukk National Park © Barry Lyon

We set up a vigil over the largest of the meadows and began to watch and wait…until nothing happened. With evening clearly not far away, we loaded up and continued a short distance further along the road until we came to a smaller meadow tucked among the trees. Upon approach a large bird suddenly broke from the forest edge, flying away from us along the forestmeadow interface, then banked and disappeared into the trees. Whoa! Stop! The vehicle immediately ceased and we remained quiet, hoping the bird would reappear. After a wait of about 10 minutes, when it seemed like we might be out of luck, the bird silently glided out of the forest and out into the center of the meadow where it began to hunt. Incredible! Quietly we disembarked the vehicle and arranged the scopes. One by one, each of us took our time studying the Ural Owl while it hunted mice successfully on at least two attempts.

Following this arresting experience, we loaded up for the hour-long return to park headquarters, at which point we reboarded the bus and headed for home. September 19 – Today was a travel day as we transitioned from the Bukk region back to Budapest. Rather than heading straight for the Hungarian capital, we made a couple of stops en route to take in some historical and cultural highlights. Departing the hotel, we drove a short distance to a medieval dwelling cut from the soft “tufa” that characterized the geology of parts of the Bukk range. Known as “Farkasko,” the site was inhabited for over 400 years in the Middle Ages. Cut from the soft rock, the structure is a fairyland type of construction complete with hallways, chambers, and hidden entrances. From Farkasko we headed to nearby Eger for a walking tour of the central part of the town. We arrived in Budapest in the mid- to late afternoon, but with plenty of time to check in to our hotel and relax before reconvening for dinner. Our lovely accommodations were located right on the Danube River and featured commanding views of the spectacular Hungarian Parliament Building. A number of us chose to use the down time by walking down to the promenade that ran along the river. That evening we enjoyed dinner aboard a river boat docked on the east bank of the river; afterward, we walked back to the hotel via the Chain Bridge, spanning the Danube River, one of the signature landmarks of Budapest. Along the way we stopped to take photographs, admire the statuary, and gaze at the Parliament Building, now aglow in light. September 20 – Today marked our last full day in Hungary, culminating with a guided city tour of the Hungarian capital. Our tour began in Pest, on the eastern side of the Danube River, finished up in Buda on the western side. With an excellent local guide, we visited many of the city’s greatest sites including the Széchenyi Bath House, Basilica of St. Stephen, the Chain Bridge, the Orthodox and Dohany synagogues in the Jewish quarter, St. Matthias Church, Fisherman’s Bastion in Buda Castle, and the Royal Palace.

Basilica of St. Stephen © Barry Lyon

It was a marvelous day that couldn’t have been any better…except that it was about to.

Dinner tonight was in the hotel, after which we walked a short distance to a private concert chamber where we were treated to an hour-long concert featuring a four-string quartet. It was a beautiful way to end a beautiful day. September 21 – Today marked the start of the second half of the trip in which we set our sights on the Czech Republic. In calculating the time to get from Hungary to the Czech Republic, we knew we had a couple of extra hours to play with this morning before making serious time for the border. Once we departed the hotel, we took a cruise up the famous Andrassy Boulevard, stopping to admire the exquisite Hungarian State Opera House, before ending in Heroes Square. Here we walked around for a short while admiring the statues of the great Hungarian kings of long ago. Next, we returned to Buda and spent time atop Gellert Hill on which sits the Gellert Hill Citadel.

Heroes Square © Barry Lyon

Around 11 a.m. we departed Budapest via the major highway that leads into Austria in the northwest corner of the country. About an hour-and-a-half out of Budapest we stopped for lunch before exiting the country a short time later. Our route to the Czech Republic took us through a swath of eastern Austria in which we skirted, but didn’t enter, the city of Vienna. The scenery was pleasing along the length of the route with agricultural lands broken by stands of conifers. Occasional castles or immaculate towns

along the way provided interesting visual diversions. We arrived at the Czech Republic late in the day, and the trip to Trebon from the border crossing required an additional thirty minutes. September 22 – Today, our first full day in the Czech Republic, offered much of a day in the field followed with time to explore historic Trebon. This part of the Czech Republic is famous for its commercial fish farming. It is the preponderance of lakes in association with the Vlatava River, which flows through here, which sustains commercial fish farming operations that date back centuries. Our destination to start the day was the small town of Frahelz, about 20 minutes from Trebon, where we would spend part of the day birding a network of fish ponds surrounded by deciduous forest. As expected, the birding here was very good, with plenty of birds in the forest complementing the obvious groups of grebes and waterfowl that populated many of the surrounding bodies of water. We had a marvelous day in the field. A rundown of the highlights includes such species as

Tufted Duck, Red-crested Pochard, Great Crested and Little grebes, Middle Spotted and Grayheaded woodpeckers, Gray Wagtail, and Eurasian Treecreeper. Toward the middle of the afternoon we returned to Trebon for some down time and a chance to explore the medieval village in the late afternoon. The main historic part of Trebon is that area centered on Masaryk Square. Although not exceptionally large, as European squares go, it nevertheless offered a classic European scene of outdoor cafes, a fountain, statuary, and postcard-perfect architecture. An optional group walk included a hike to the top of the bell tower, visiting the Plague Column, and walking out to one of the centuries-old gates that originally protected the city. Afterward, some of us continued into the adjacent park, located behind the city, for a final opportunity to see a few birds…which we did. September 23 – This morning we loaded up and said goodbye to Trebon as our tour of the Czech Republic continued. The ultimate goal for the day was reaching the town of Zdikov in the Sumava Mountains, but much lay in store between the start of the day and the end. Departing Trebon, we drove for an hour until we came to the outskirts of Cesky Budejovice, a sprawling town on the highway. The significance of the place lies in its close proximity to another fish pond operation and a chance to break up the drive with some mid-morning birding. We ended up spending an hour or more here, walking the path along the southern and eastern sides of the lake. The birding was quite good with the highlight being the discovery of a very late migrating European Pied Flycatcher. Next, we drove for another fortyfive minutes until we reached the town of Cesky Krumlov, a picturesque medieval village that, despite its obvious place as a tourist magnet, proved an enjoyable destination at which to spend several hours. Like most places in this part of the world, Cesky Cesky Krumlov and Vlatava River, from the Castle © Barry Lyon Krumlov is old, with origins that date back many centuries. Part of the charm of the place lies in its age, yet its winding roads, alcove entrances, and medieval castle yield an undeniable charm to the place. For

lunch we visited a restaurant that one served as a prison, complete with authentic tools and devices serving as props in various places. Following lunch, we had the afternoon to ourselves to explore the town or simply to relax with a coffee or beer. Some of us entered the old castle, where elevated views from above the gate offered commanding views of the surrounding city and the Vlatava River winding below. Below the castle, the river snaked its way around two sides of the city. At the section where we entered town, a weir-like damn sat above a drop where the water’s regulated flow formed a light rapid. Remarkably, the artificial habitat was excellent for birds. Both Gray and White wagtails were present, as was a bounty of Black Redstarts; however, pride of place honors went to the White-throated Dipper that gave terrific views as it bathed in the rapid. From Cesky Krumlov, the drive to Zdikov took about an hour and a half, and presented exposure to the lovely Czech countryside. In particular, the trip through the mountain foothills was especially scenic with the roadside lined by forests of Norway Spruce and fields golden-brown in these early days of autumn. September 24 – The Sumava region is one of densely forested mountains fringed by extensive grain and hay fields and scattered pockets of trees. It is a scenic land and a land of fairly low human density. The day’s objective was to travel the short distance from the hotel into the mountains for a day of birding at a somewhat higher elevation within the confines of Sumava National Park. Departing the hotel after breakfast, we relaxed in the bus through an uneventful ride for the first three-quarters of the distance to the park.

Norway Spruce Forest, Sumava Mountains © Barry Lyon

As we made our way deeper into the mountains, we turned off the main highway onto the park entrance road, which essentially was a long stretch of lightly traveled road that traversed expansive stretches of cultivated fields. At one point we got out to check a group of birds that had gathered in one particular field, to find that we had stumbled across a large mixed flock of thrushes containing our first Mistle Thrushes and Fieldfares along with a couple of Song Thrushes. After an hour at this site, we continued a short distance down the road and promptly stumbled onto a beautiful Northern Shrike actively hunting from the overhead perch afforded by a powerline. We disembarked the bus and, for the next thirty minutes, observed the shrike at

length, an opportunity in which everyone had ample time to study the handsome bird.Eventually we were able to pull ourselves away and cover the remaining distance to the park entrance. Our arrival at the park was heralded by chilly air temperatures, so we put on some warmer gear and proceeded to walk into the park. A modern visitor center with plumbing warmed our hearts, while just outside, Balazs’s locating a stunning Black Woodpecker could not have made for a more auspicious start to our birding activities. Farther along, a mixed species flock produced several tit species, another Eurasian Treecreeper, and our best studies yet of Goldcrest. The premier sighting occurred a short time later when Balazs located a single Crested Tit in a small tree at the edge of a nearby meadow. After lunch in the field, the road entered the forest, which we walked for another quarter of a mile, until we came to a small lake in the woods. For many of us, this was the turnaround point, a place to sit and rest and take in the lovely setting. For others of us, an optional walk took us lightly uphill along an ancient, undisturbed area of trees known as “primeval forest.” This area was pretty, to be sure, but light on bird offerings. After walking uphill for perhaps another quarter mile Woodland and Stream, Sumava National Park © Barry Lyon we turned around, then promptly had a very close encounter with a Hazel Grouse (heard-only, darn it!) before returning downhill. Retracing our steps, we had become a little spread out, when, of a sudden, Andee Burrell, who had been walking ahead, was seen staring intently upward into a small tree. Waving us over, she proceeded to point out a bird that turned out to be a Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker, one of the most difficult birds in the forest to find! Well, that’s birding. From here we began retracing our steps all the way back to the park entrance and the area where the vehicle was parked. The walk out took a while, but certainly was not onerous. Upon arrival at the bus we loaded up and headed for Zdikov. September 25– This morning offered a final opportunity for birding before making the trip to Prague. As it turned out, the area around our hotel offered plenty of open space habitat and an associated suite of birds. So, the agenda for the morning included an optional birding walk into the nearby countryside, or simply relaxing around the hotel.

The birding outing was surprisingly wonderful as we logged an array of new birds including Eurasian Blackcap, Yellowhammer, and Eurasian Bullfinch, along with better views of Marsh Tit and Gray Wagtail. After lunch at the lodge we loaded the vehicle, with an interruption to view a flock of Red Crossbills that suddenly appeared, and headed for the Czech capital. The ride to Prague consumed the next two-and-a-half hours. Following check-in to the hotel, we broke for about an hour before reconvening for an early dinner. We walked a short distance to a nearby restaurant, after which we walked to the exquisite Klementinum to take in a wonderful, varied concert performance. September 26 – As with Budapest, the entire day was dedicated to a guided city tour of Prague, one of Europe’s most charming cities. After meeting our local guide we began with a visit to the Castle District where we saw Prague Castle and the beautiful St. Vitus Cathedral. From here we descended to the banks of the Vlatava River where we crossed the famous Charles Bridge. After lunch in a nearby restaurant our exploration of Prague continued with a visit to the Old Town District where we saw the remarkable Astronomical Clock; the Old-New Synagogue in the historic Jewish ghetto; and Wenceslas Square in New Town. We returned to the hotel in the late afternoon for some down time and a chance to refresh before going to an early dinner again this evening. Once again, we walked to dinner, after which we attended another music concert, this time an all-string performance at the Municipal House, another beautiful venue. Old Town Square, Prague © Barry Lyon After the performance we returned to the hotel where we offered good-byes and bade fond farewells at the end of what had been a remarkable trip.

September 27 – The program officially ended this morning with transfers to the airport for departing flights home.

Bird List The taxonomic order and common and scientific names used in this field list are those given by J. F. Clements, Birds of the World: A Checklist, 6th Edition, 2007, with all current updates. Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl Graylag Goose (Anser anser) – This is the common resident goose of the Hungarian steppe. We saw a couple of hundred, mostly at a distance, in the Kiskunsag area, and then several hundred others in the wetland (fishpond) ecosystem of Hortobagy National Park. Graylag Goose is the wild stock from which the domestic or “barnyard goose” was derived. The birds of Hungary are of the European race anser.

Graylag Geese © Mahlon Hale

Mute Swan (Cygnus olor) – Mute Swans were seen at all major wetland (fishpond) areas in Hungary, including the Kiskunsag region, the Tiszaalpar marshes, and Hortobagy N.P., and in the Czech Republic on the lakes outside Trebon. Here in the States, most of us know the stately Mute Swan only as an ornament of artificial ponds in amusement parks and cemeteries, or as a non-native pest existing in feral populations in the Midwestern and Mid-Atlantic states. So it was interesting to see these birds in semi-natural habitat in their native Eurasia. In particular, the two dozen or so individuals we saw outside Trebon on the sparkling morning of September 22 made for an undeniably beautiful sight, allowing us, perhaps, the ability to look onthese magnificent creatures with a new perspective, one disassociated from the usual ambivalence, even hostility, so commonly expressed toward the species. Gadwall (Anas strepera) – The familiar Gadwall, holarctic in distribution, was seen at the Tiszaalpar marshes and in the Hortobagy region in Hungary, and on the lakes outside Trebon in the Czech Republic. Eurasian Wigeon(Anas Penelope) – We saw perhaps half a dozen birds, all in basic plumage,

in various lakes and wetland complexes throughout the trip. In Hungary birds were seen atKiskunsag, Tiszalpaar, and the lake belowthe town of Bogao in the Bukk region. Mallard (Anas platyrhyncos) – Yes, this was the same Mallard, even the same subspecies, that we know so well from right here in North America. Not surprisingly, it was the most commonly encountered waterfowl species of the trip. Seen in Hungary, the Czech Republic, and in Austria on our transit day. Northern Shoveler(Anas clypeata) – Another holarctic species, shovelers were seen at two locations in Hungary: the Tiszalpaar marshes and the Hortobagy. Northern Pintail (Anas acuta) – A single female bird was scoped from the viewing blind in the marshes at Hortobagy National Park on the day we transferred to the Bukk region; not seen by more than a few people. The same bird as occurs in North America. Green-winged Teal (Anas crecca) – After Mallard this was the most commonly encountered waterfowl with plenty of birds seen at all wetland locations in Hungary and others in the Czech Republic while en route to Cesky Krumlov. These birds were of the Eurasian race, subspecies nimia, often referred to as “Eurasian Teal” or “Common Teal.” Red-crested Pochard (Nettaru fina) – The only ones seen was the five or six individuals on the lakes outside Trebon on the morning of September 22. A highly attractive species when in breeding plumage, our birds were in basic, or “eclipse,” plumage here at the end of summer. Nevertheless, we enjoyed scope views of adult male and female birds and a couple of likely immatures. Common Pochard(Aythya ferina) – Common Pochards were noted on two different days, but likely were not seen by everyone in the group. A small group of birds were seen on one of the lakes in Kiskunsag National Park, Hungary on the 14th, but flushed by a boat before the whole group saw the birds; another small group was seen only as a fly-over of one of the lakes outside Trebon, Czech Republic on the 22nd. Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca) – A true specialty bird of Eastern and Southern Europe, we had nice scope views of a male bird in the wetland complex at Hortobagy National Park, Hungary on the 16th. A couple of others were seen at considerable distance at Kiskunsag National Park a couple of days prior. Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula) – About half a dozen of this handsome waterfowl was seen on the lakes outside Trebon, Czech Republic on the 22nd. All of the birds but one were either basic plumage males or females; however, one bird was a high plumaged drake sporting a full “tuft.” Pheasants, Grouse & Allies (Phasianidae) Hazel Grouse (Bonas abonasia) – We heard, but never saw, a male bird in the Sumava Mountains in the Czech Republic on the afternoon of the 24th. Aah! So close, yet so far. Ring-necked Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus) – The Ring-necked Pheasant is a bird widely introduced to Europe from its native east Asia. Widespread and abundant, it prefers agricultural areas and pastoral settings, which was the landscape theme of the first 3 days of the trip. Consequently, many individuals were seen from the Kiskunsag region to the Hortobagy. Later in the trip, others were seen in the Czech Republic en route to Cesky Krumlov. Grebes (Podocipedidae) Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) – We enjoyed excellent views of this bird, Europe’s

smallest grebe, on two different days of the trip. The first sighting was of several birds on the large fish ponds at Kiskunsag National Park on the 14th; the second sighting was more intimate, with a couple of birds seen at closer range on the fish ponds outside Trebon, Czech Republic on the 22nd. Great-crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus) – This handsomest of grebes was seen on three days of the trip, in both Hungary and the Czech Republic. Several well-marked adult birds were seen on one of the large fish ponds in Kiskunsag National Park on the 14th while other birds were seen equally well in the Czech Republic on the 22nd (fish ponds outside Trebon) and 23rd (small fish pond outside Cesky Budejovice. Eared Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis) – A couple of basic plumaged individuals were seen on one of the large fish ponds outside Trebon, Czech Republic on the 22nd. This is the same species familiar to many North American birders, but a different race, nigricollis, that bears the name “Black-necked Grebe” in Europe. This species is a candidate for splitting. Storks (Ciconiidae) Black Stork (Ciconia nigra) – A single bird was seen in flight high over the Tzisalapaar Marshes in Hungary on the 15th. Most Black Storks have migrated to Africa by early September, yet a few linger well into the month. We felt fortunate to have seen even one of these majestic birds.

Black Stork © Mahlon Hale

Cormorants & Shags (Phalacrocoracidae) Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) – This bird proved common and easy to find around most larger bodies of water. Great Cormorants were seen on seven days of the trip, and in both Hungary and the Czech Republic. These birds belonged to the subspecies sinensis, which occurs from north-central Europe across Asia. Pygmy Cormorant (Phalacrocorax pygmaeus) – Somewhat surprisingly, the little Pygmy Cormorant was seen only on one day of the trip, at the fish ponds at Kiskunsag National Park on the 16th. That said, the views we had of several birds were of high quality with birds seen perched and in flight. Herons, Egrets & Bitterns (Ardeidae) Gray Heron (Ardea cinerea) – In Europe, this species is the ecological replacement of Great

Blue Heron. In fact, the birds are almost identical in appearance. We saw Gray Herons on six different days, and in both Hungary and the Czech Republic, and usually around lakes and ponds. Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) – Purple Heron is a widespread Old World bird with localized populations across central and southern Europe. Most Purples migrate to Africa by the end of August. Predictably, the few lingering birds tend to be immatures of the species. We felt fortunate to see Purple Herons on two different days, and on both occasions in Hungary. One immature was seen at the fish ponds at Kiskunsag National Park on the morning of the 14th, while another young bird was seen from the train at the fish ponds at the Hortobagy on the 16th. Great Egret (Ardea alba) – A number of Great Egrets were seen in Hungary over the first several days of the trip. As with the other herons we Purple Heron, Immature © Mahlon Hale encountered, our birds were seen amid the wetlands of Kiskunsag and Hortobagy national parks. It’s worth pointing out that several birds were seen at the fish ponds outside Trebon, Czech Republic on the 22nd. The Euroean race, alba. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) – Most Little Egrets have migrated by this time of the year, but nevertheless we did spot several of these Snowy Egret look-alikes at the Tiszaalpar Marshes on the 15th and at Hortobagy National Park the next day. Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides) – More by accident than anything else, our only Squacco of the trip was a bird flushed from a canal in Kiskunsag National Park on the morning of the 14th. Ibises & Spoonbills (Threskiornithidae) Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia) – The majority of long-legged wading birds migrate out of Europe to the warmer climes of Africa prior to winter’s coming. Counted among this ilk is the Eurasian Spoonbill, a reasonably common, but localized species across central and southern Europe. We found lingering spoonbills in Hungary on the consecutive days of September 15 and 16. On the 15th we spied a group of feeding birds at the Tiszaalpar Marshes, although the views were only satisfactory given the considerable distance at which we saw them; and the second opportunity came the next day in Hortobagy National Park where we enjoyed marvelous scope views of about a dozen or more birds in the lake at the end of the rail line.

Hawks, Eagles & Kites (Accipitridae) European Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus) – The only representative of this species on the trip was a single high-flying bird migrating south over the hotel in the Bukk Hills on the 18th. Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) – Short-toed Eagles migrate to Africa for the winter, and most are gone by mid-September. We were thrilled to see a single bird soaring over the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel on the very first afternoon of the trip. Thrilling! Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliacal) – Among the more soughtafter birds of Hungary is the majestic Imperial Eagle. And we weren’t disappointed! As it turned out, we had no problem gaining great studies of adult and immature birds alike over four different days of the trip. We probably saw five or six Imperial Eagle, Immature © Mahlon Hale individuals in all, but the most memorable sightings were of the perched adult bird near the town of Tzisalapaar on the 15th and of the low-flying immature bird at the large lake south of Bogac in the Bukk Hills on the morning of the 18th. Large and beautiful, this is one great bird! Eurasian Marsh-Harrier (Circus aeruginosus) – This powerful raptor was probably the most abundant raptor over the first week of the trip. Lingering resident birds joined by southbound migrants populated wetlands, grasslands, and agricultural areas from Kiskunag National Park all the way to the Bukk Hills. Nearly all birds were females, although a couple of male birds were noted. Pallid Harrier (Circus macrourus) – Pallid Harrier is an uncommon to rare passage migrant through eastern Hungary in the late summer period. A single male bird was seen by part of the group while eating lunch at Kiskunsag National Park on the 14th. This was a very good find and definitely a bird not to be expected. Eurasian Sparrowhawk(Accipiter nissus) – This attractive accipiter was seen on four different

days of the trip. The highest quality sighting was probably of the perched bird in the clump of low bushes in a field south of Bugyi on the afternoon of the 14th. Others were seen well, actually, but typically in flight. Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis) – The holarcticNorthern Goshawk occurs across the world’s northern latitude forests. While approaching the bluff that overlooks the Tiszaalpar Marshes in Hungary on the 15th, an immature goshawk past in front of the lead portion of the group making its way from one dense stand of trees to another. The views were short but definitive, but the bird probably was not seen by more than half a dozen people. White-tailed Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla) – This trip was a spectacular one for observation of White-tailed Eagle. In Europe, this species seems closely affiliated with the networks of fish ponds and lakes that characterize parts of eastern and southern Europe. We had tremendous views of birds, both perched and flying around Kiskunsag National Park on the 14th, another at Tiszaalpar on the next day, others at Hortobagy National Park on the 15th, and still one more, a perched bird at the edge of a small pond in the Sumava Mountains, Czech Republic on the 23rd. A massive and glorious bird. Common Buzzard (Buteo buteo)– This species was among the more commonly encountered raptors of the trip, certainly the most widespread. Buzzards were seen on nine different days of the trip including in Hungary, Austria, and the Czech Republic. Bustards (Otididae) Great Bustard (Otis tarda) – This is another of the premier birds of Hungary. One of the world’s heaviest flying birds, Great Bustard is a spectacular bird of expansive open spaces in a select few areas of Europe. The birds are found on the Iberian Peninsula and in the steppegrassland community of Hungary. At times they can be difficult to find while on other occasions locating them can be fairly easy. The autumn is typically an easier Great Bustard © Mahlon Hale time of year to find the birds as they gather in postbreeding flocks that may number a dozen or more birds. Our experiences with this bird were special, although it took a while to find them! After striking out following a morning of searching amid the agricultural fields and grasslands east of Bugyi, we finally located a group of birds in the same general area later in the day. The first bird we saw, actually, was a single bird seemingly out of habitat striding amid a dried field of corn; but the best views were of the small flock we located a little closer to the road. Seen on the first morning of the trip.

Rails, Gallinules & Coots (Rallidae) Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) – This common but elusive marsh bird was essentially heardonly on this trip when several calling birds were easily detected in the wetland outside Trebon, Czech Republic. I say “essentially” because a few people saw a bird briefly in flight across a section of marsh. Eurasian Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) – This bird was seen on only one day of the trip, in Kiskunsag National Park on the first morning out. That said, we saw numbers of individuals among the canals, lakes, and ponds of the large commercial fish farm. Recently split from the North American birds, which are now called Common Gallinule. Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra) – Similar to our American Coot, this species occupies similar habitat across its European range. We had no problem finding coots, in sizeable groups, in every wetland habitat we visited in both Hungary and the Czech Republic. Thick-knees (Burhinidae) Eurasian Thick-knee (Burhinus oedicnemus) – Eurasian Thick-knee is a regular but uncommon fall migrant in the Kiskunsag region of Hungary. For whatever reason, one particularly productive site is a traditional one, a cluster of fields just south of Bugyi. After an initial long first day in the field, those willing to stick it out for a final optional hour of birding were rewarded with scope views of several Eurasian Thick-knees. The birds that occur here are staging prior to their migratory retreat to Africa at some point in the fall. They are normally reliably found; however, this year they were a little harder to locate, although the story ended with a happy note as the group was eventually treated to scope views of several birds. Stilts & Avocets (Recurvirsotridae) Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus) – A couple of pair of late migrating birds were located in the Tiszaalpar Marshes on the 15th and again the next day at the large pond at the end of the rail line in Hortobagy National Park. Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) – Perhaps a dozen of these black and white dandies were seenwell in the large wetland at the end of the rail line in Hortobagy National Park. Plovers & Lapwings (Charadriidae) Northern Lapwing (Vanellus vanellus) – Crested, and decked in bronzy-black and white plumage, the Northern Lapwing is a common bird of the Hungarian steppe country. Equally at home in grassland and around shallow standing water, the birds often gather in the dozens, sometimes hundreds. We had nice views repeatedly of numbers of birds on five of the first six days of the trip. Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) – One or two birds were seen at some distance in the large wetland at the end of the rail line in Hortobagy National Park. Sandpipers & Allies (Scolopacidae) Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus) – We had decent looks at a couple of elusive individuals around the canals and lakes of Kiskunsag National Park on the 14th. Spotted Redshank (Tringa erythropus) – This species is one of the more common migrant

shorebirds of the early autumn period. We found them fairly common in appropriate wetland habitat, particularly in the large wetland at the end of the rail line in Hortobagy National Park. Common Greenshank (Tringa nebularia) – A couple of individuals were seen. The first was a flighty bird along a canal in Kiskunsag National Park on the 14th; the second was a solitary bird in the large wetland at the end of the rai line in Hortobagy National Park. Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) – A single bird at Kiskunsag National Park on the 14th was spotted in the far corner of a particular pond where we had stopped to bird. Most interesting is that the bird was feeding side by side with an individual Green Sandpiper, providing nice comparisons. Eurasian Curlew (Numenius arquata) – One or two birds in the large pond at the end of the rail line in Hortobagy National Park on the 16th were the only ones seen. Black-tailed Godwit (Limosa limosa) – A dozen or more of these godwits were seen in the large pond at the end of the rail line in Hortobagy National Park on the 16th. This species occurs in large numbers in Hungary through the fall. Ruff (Philomachus pugnax) – Individual birds were seen scattered around various wetland habitats during our time in Hungary, including Kiskunsag and Hortobagy national parks, and the lake below the town of Bogac in the Bukk Hills on the 18th. Dunlin (Calidris alpina) – As with Ruff, individuals of the species were seen in Hortobagy National Park and at the lake below the town of Bogac in the Bukk Hill on the 18th. This is the same species as in North America, but a different race—most likely alpina. Common Snipe (Gallinago gallinago) – Common Snipe was seen on six different days of the trip, in Hungary and the Czech Republic, with many individuals seen quite well. As one would imagine, they were always around water. Gulls, Terns & Skimmers (Laridae) Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus) – Black-headed Gull not only was the most commonly encountered gull of the trip by bar, but was also one of the more frequently seen birds of the entire trip. This is a common breeding species and passage migrant in Hungary. At different times, it is possible to see concentrations of these birds that number from the dozens into the hundreds. We saw Black-headed Gulls almost anywhere there was water including rivers, ponds, and lakes. Probably our most memorable encounter occurred on the nights we spent in Budapest, when a dozen or more birds at a time were seen hawking insects by night over the Hungarian Parliament Building, when the lights of the building illuminated the birds in a soft golden glow. Caspian Gull (Larus cachinnans) – Caspian Gulls were seen in low numbers in the areas we visted with the largest bodies of water. The species is almost identical to the widespread Yellow-legged Gull of the Mediterranean region, but this species is more likely to be found inland where, in Europe, it only occurs in the countries of the eastern part of the continent. Pigeons & Doves (Columbidae) Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) – Common in cities and towns throughout. Stock Dove (Columba oenas) – A very nice surprise was the discovery of a pair of Stock Doves

among the more numerous Common Wood-Pigeons at the edge of the lake south of Bogac in the Bukk Hills, Hungary on the 18th. This bird is somewhat enigmatic in that its occurrence is not always easy to predict. Common Wood-Pigeon (Columba palumbus) – A fairly frequently encountered bird throughout the trip. We enjoyed scope views is several places including on the grounds of the Forster Hotel on our first afternoon in Hungary. European Turtle-Dove (Streptopelia turtur) – This turtle-dove species is widespread across Europe through the late spring and summer. By early September, however, most birds have completely vacated the continent for their African wintering grounds. By midSeptember, only the last late-departing birds may still be seen, and even then, the chances fall by the day. It seemed rather remarkable to us to find two immature birds at the edge of the lake south of Bogac in the Bukk Hills on the 18th. Surely this pair was among the very last to leave. Eurasian Collared-Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) – This widespread bird was seen on many days of the trip from Hungary to the Czech Republic; however, nowhere was it especially numerous. Owls (Strigidae) Ural Owl (Strix uralensis) – A single Ural Owl was seen amid a forest-ringed mountain meadow in Bukk National Park late on the afternoon of the 18th. And what a sight it was! After a fruitless owl vigil at the edge of a lovely meadow complex deep in the interior of the park, we decided to travel a short distance north to check a smaller Ural Owl © Mahlon Hale meadow known to occasionally host Ural Owls. Unlike some owls that live exclusively within the deep forest, Ural Owl favors the edge of the forest where it hunts adjacent meadows late in the day and early in the morning. As we approached the small meadow, Warren and Marilyn had a quick look at a large bird flying against the forest edge before disappearing into the

trees. We decided to stop the vehicle and stay quiet in hope that the bird would return. Remarkably, after a wait of about ten minutes, the bird emerged, silently cruising out of the forest into the center of the meadow. Quietly we disembarked the open-air vehicle and set up the spotting scopes. In turn, each of us watched transfixed as the marvelous birdwent about its business hunting rodents as day turned to night. For many, this was the premier birding experience of the trip. Long-eared Owl (Asio otus) –Many people aren’t aware that the Long-eared Owl is a gregarious bird out of the breeding season. In some cases, birds are known to form wintertime rooststhat number in the dozens, hundreds even. In parts of Europe, Longeareds are known to form roosts as soon as the breeding season is finished. And so it was on September 15 when we traveled to the town of Kiskunfelegyadza and saw about 15 owls roosting in the trees of a small public square. This amazing spectacle was one of the real highlights of the entire trip. Swifts (Apodidae) Common Swift (Apus apus) – This “common” bird becomes decidedly less common by the end of August as the European population undertakes a massive migration to Africa. A single bird over the Tiszaalpar Marshes, Hungary, on the 15th was both late and unexpected. Kingfishers (Alcedinidae) Common Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) – This bird was actually seen on four different days of the trip, in both Hungary and the Czech Republic. The problem is that none of the birds were seen very well at all. Despite its status as a common bird, it also is a shy and wary bird given to quick exits, as demonstrated time and again on this trip. Rollers (Coraciidae) European Roller (Coracias garrulus) – This is another summertime bird whose numbers dwindlerapidly by the end of the season. Nevertheless, a few, mostly immature birds, will hang around for a while longer. We had a good trip for this bird with multiple individuals seen over two days, September 14-15, around fields in the Kiskunsag/Tiszaalpar areas, including one or two blue-breasted adults! Bee-eaters(Meropidae) European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster) – Several migrating flocks representing the last birds of the season were noted over three of the trip’s first four days (Kiskunsag/Tiszaalpar/Hortobagy regions). An especially attractive, multi-colored bird. Woodpeckers (Picidae) Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor) – For our considerable luck in finding woodpeckers on this trip, this little rascal mostly eluded us. A close, calling bird at the fish ponds outside Trebon, Czech Republic on the 22nd was heard only, but never seen. Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos medius) – This bird, on the other hand, was seen well on several occasions. We enjoyed tremendous scope views of a bird in the bare top of a poplar on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel on the first afternoon; another was seen in the yard of our hotel in the Bukk Mountains; and still another was seen extremely well in the forest adjacent to the fish ponds outside of Trebon on the 22nd.

Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopus major) – This was the most commonly encountered Woodpecker, with sightings of birds on six different days of the trip in both Hungary and the Czech Republic. A boldly marked and beautiful bird. Syrian Woodpecker (Dendrocopus syriacus) – One individual was seen, a single bird above the tufa dwelling (Farkasko) belowNosvaj, Hungary on the 19th. Good views for many, so-so views for others. This bird is among the more common woodpeckers around human habitation. Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus) – Of all the Great Spotted Woodpecker © Mahlon Hale wonderful bird sightings of the trip, this species was a candidate for most-unexpected. On the afternoon of September 24, we were birding along the edge of the “primeval” spruce forest in Sumava National Park when Andee Burrell heard the soft tapping of a woodpecker. Arriving at her position, we looked up into a smallish Norway Spruce and beheld a Three-toed. Amazing. This is one of the tougher woodpeckers to find in Europe, as is its counterpart, American Three-toed Woodpecker, here at home. Retiring and occurring in low density, this bird is not often seen. Way to go Andee! Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) – Here again, I preface my comments with this bird being among the trip’s more spectacular sightings. But hey, if it’s true… Anyway, suffice it to say that any number of superlatives applies to the scope views we enjoyed of a male bird perched atop a Norway Spruce for 15 minutes in Sumava National Park. I’ll leave it at that. Eurasian Green Woodpecker (Picus viridis) – Excellent scope views of this beautiful woodpecker were had during the morning walk above the hotel in the Bukk Mountains on the morning of the 22nd. Gray-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus) – After much effort, Balazs located a single Grayheaded Woodpecker in the trees around one of the fish ponds outside Trebon on the 22nd. After an initial bout of anxiety, everyone eventually got on the bird well. Then it relocated to a small tree where it perched exposed for almost ten minutes. Amazing. Falcons & Caracaras (Falconidae) Eurasian Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) – Kestrels were fairly plentiful over the first four days of the tour, then none were seen during the middle, followed by a few scattered sightings in the Czech Republic at the end. We enjoyed many fine views of this smaller falcon. Red-footed Falcon (Falco vespertinus) – The beautiful Red-footed Falcon is somewhat unusual

among falcons for several reasons: the bird displays pronounced sexual dimorphism, i.e. males and females appear drastically different; the birds are highly migratory, i.e. they leave Europe for Africa in the autumn; and they are highly gregarious, i.e. they form post-breeding flocks of dozens of birds in a single gathering. We enjoyed tremendous studies of birds of all plumages and ages in a large field while en route to Tiszaalpar on the 15th. A few others were seen the next day while in the Hortobagy. Our experiences with this bird were wonderful. Eurasian Hobby (Falco subbuteo) – This falcon, something like a smaller version of a Merlin, was seen as a migrant on three consecutive days in Hungary, September 14-16. Good views. Saker Falcon (Falco cherrug) – This bird is yet another of Hungary’s premier, highly-sought bird species. In Europe, Saker Falcon is a highly localized, range-restricted species that favors the type of open country found only in Hungary. Once rare and endangered, the bird, through a combination of protection and some oddities of its nesting habits, has rebounded to healthier numbers. This large, powerful falcon was seen once during the trip, outside the town of Tiszaalpar, high on a power pole, on the 15th. Excellent. Shrikes (Laniidae) Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio) – Although the adult birds had all migrated south at the time of our visit, we saw a number of lingering immature birds in the agriculturalgrassland communities of Hungary over the first couple of days of the trip. Nice studies. Northern Shrike (Lanius excubitor) – A single Northern Shrike was spotted by Balazs not far from the entrance to the national park in the Sumava Mountains, Czech Republic, on the 24th. The discovery of this bird was special because Northern Shrike is a low density species in this part of its range. With several scopes trained on the bird, we had close studies as it hunted from a power line literally in front of us for about 30 minutes. In fact, we had seen it so well that we simply left the area with the bird still there. In Europe, Northern Shrike is known as “Great Gray Shrike,” representing a subgroup, excubitor, that could well be split off someday as its own species. Old World Orioles (Oriolidae) Eurasian Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus) – And here we have another case of a bird that is largely migrated by early September but that clearly lingers in small numbers into

Eurasian Golden Oriole © Mahlon Hale

the middle of the month. Our sighting of this species also offers a case study in “never assume.” I assumed this bird would not be possible on this trip, and so of course I was completely wrong. Our birding outings on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel turned up a female bird on the first afternoon of the trip and a gorgeous male teed atop a bare poplar on the following morning. Crows, Jays & Magpies (Corvidae) Eurasian Jay (Garrulus glandarius) – This widespread European bird went unrecorded until we finally caught up with it in the Bukk Mountains, where, around our hotel, we enjoyed excellent views. The bird proved common once we reached the Czech Republic where it was seen commonly on four consecutive days from the 22nd-25th. Eurasian Magpie (Pica pica) – Common and seen almost daily throughout the trip. Eurasian Jackdaw (Corvus monedula) – Jackdaws were seen on three days of the trip; interestingly, they often favor areas of human habitation, as demonstrated by the fact that we saw them well during our guided city tours of Budapest and Prague. Rook (Corvus frugilegus) – This raven-like corvid was seen very well in the agriculturegrassland regimes of Hungary in the first part of the trip. Others were seen while in transit in the Czech Republic on the 23rd. Carrion Crow (Corvus corone) – A couple of birds were seen in an open field in the Sumava Mountains, Czech Republic, on the 24th. This species is ecological replacement of the following species across western and central Europe. In the Czech Republic, Carrion Crow is decidedly less common, but as we saw for ourselves, there are a few around. Hooded Crow (Corvus cornix) – An attractive corvid, Hooded Crow is a very common bird across eastern and southern Europe, and is a very abundant bird in Hungary. Common Raven (Corvus corax)– Several were noted in the Bukk Mountains in Hungary and in theSumava Mountains of the Czech Republic. This bird is not exactly uncommon, yet finding this bird on this particular tour route is not a guaranteed thing. Larks (Alaudidae) Crested Lark (Galerida cristata) – We had tremendous view of this bird on September 16th in a most unlikely place. While stopped at a highwayside market and café, we spotted a couple of larks running around the lawns and parking lot behind the building. Superb views. Sky Lark (Alauda arvensis) – A couple of birds proved much easier to hear than see in a plowed field outside the village of Tiszaalpar on the 15th. Swallows (Hirundinidae) Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) –Barn Swallows were present by the hundreds through the first four days of the trip. Early and mid-September is a great time to see these birds in migration en route to their African wintering grounds. Barn Swallow occurs nearly worldwide, with the European birds being of the “White-bellied” race rustica. Common House-Martin (Delichon urbicum) – The majority of house-martins have departed central Europe by early September, but the fact that we still saw several hundred individuals even in the third week of the month offers a clue as to how numerous this bird must be.

Tits, Chickadees & Titmice (Paridae) Marsh Tit (Poecile palustris) – This species and the next are nearly identical in appearance, a matter akin to our Black-capped Chickadee/Carolina Chickadee complex, and are best distinguished by voice. We saw Marsh Tit in two places: the first opportunity came in Nosvaj during our morning walk above the hotel when we had decent looks at a flitty low-feeding bird; the second sighting was the best one, when we spotted a single bird perched atop a small cypress tree outside the hotel in the town of Zdikov, Czech Republic on the 25th. Willow Tit (Poecile montanus) – Willow Tit was seen very well on several occasions. In Hungary we saw birds on the plateau in Bukk National Park; in the Czech Republic others were seen in the city park in Trebon and in the Sumava Mountains. Coal Tit (Peripa rusater) – We managed decent views of Coal Tits in the Bukk Mountains of Hungary; others were seen much better in the Sumava Mountains of the Czech Republic on the 24th. Crested Tit (Lophophanes cristatus) – We enjoyed arresting views of a single Crested Tit in a small trees amid a mountain meadow in Sumava National Park on the 24th. This was a memorable sighting to be sure. Great Tit (Parus major) – This is the most commonly encountered tit species across much of Europe, which is to be expected considering how well this bird does in most habitats. Many excellent views were had. Eurasian Blue Tit (Cyanistes caeruleus) – This species is as widespread as the above bird, and we enjoyed superb views of this little sprite as well. Perhaps our finest observations occurred on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel when we saw several individuals at very close range. Long-tailed Tit © Mahlon Hale

Long-tailed Tits (Aegithalidae) Long-tailed Tit (Aegithalos caudatus) – This dazzling little bird likes to travel in groups, which means when you see one of these dazzling little birds, you see many of these dazzling little birds! At any rate, we had superb views of Long-tailed Tits above the hotel in Nosvaj, Hungary on the 18th, and at the lake outside Cesky Budejovice, Czech Republic (while en route to Cesky Krumlov) on the 23rd. Nuthatches (Sittidae)

Eurasian Nuthatch (Sitta europaea) – This was an excellent trip for seeing this delightful little bird, as it was recorded on eight different days. Among our many sightings, the birds seen at close range on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel on the first afternoon were especially memorable, as were the birds coming to the seed feeders on the apartment balcony next to the park in Trebon, Czech Republic on the 22nd. Treecreepers(Certhiidae) Eurasian Treecreeper(Certhia familiaris) – This species replaces the closely related ShorttoedTreecrepper farther north in Europe and at higher elevations. For this reason we did not see Eurasian Treecreeper until the latter part of the trip, at which point we had good luck finding birds at several locations in the Czech Republic. The bird’s small size and retiring habits made it hard for some people to see, but eventually everyone enjoyed satisfying views. Short-toed Treecreeper(Certhia brachydactyla) – Our best views of this bird actually occurred on the first afternoon of the trip when we had fine studies of a pair on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel in Bugyi. Wrens (Troglodytidae) Eurasian Wren (Troglodytidae troglodytes) – This bird, Europe’s only wren, was seen on three separate days and heard on two others. Our top two sightings occurred in the deep forest of Bukk National Park, Hungary, on the 18th, and in the mountain forest of Sumava National Park, Czech Republic, on the 24th. Dippers (Cinclidae) White-throated Dipper (Cinclus cinclus) – One of the real surprises of the trip was the discovery of a White-throated Dipper below the weir on the Vlatava River at the entrance to Cesky Krumlov. Despite the presence of many tourists, the little dipper just went about its business of feeding and bathing as if it were alone in a mountain stream. Superb views for all! Kinglets (Regulidae) Goldcrest (Regulus regulus) – A couple of Goldcrests were seen in the boughs of the dense conifers atop the plateau in Bukk National Park on the 18th. However, these birds were not seen by all, and the overall experience paled in Firecrest © Mahlon Hale comparison to the superb sightings we had of a bird in the Sumava Mountains, Czech Republic on the 24th. Firecrest(Regulus ignicapilla) – This bird was seen only once on the trip: a single low-foraging individual above the hotel in Nosvaj on the morning of the 17th. Tremendous views.

Leaf-Warblers (Phylloscopidae) Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita) – This bird was seen on six different days and actually proved fairly common. Unlike most warblers of this genus, the chiffchaff winters across much of central and southern Europe. Most of the birds we saw clearly were migrants, with some probably destined to stick around for a while. We saw a few in Hungary, including superb views of several birds on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel, but many more in the Czech Repulic. Wood Warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix) – A single migrant bird was found on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel on the first afternoon. Common Chiffchaff © Mahlon Hale

Reed-Warblers & Allies (Acrocephalidae) Eurasian Reed-Warbler (Acrocephalus scirpaceus) – A single bird was seen among the reeds that fringed one of the fish ponds outside of the town of Cesky Budejovice in the Czech Republic on the 23rd. For whatever reason, this bird is hardy enough to overwinter, at least some individuals. Sylviids(Sylviidae) Eurasian Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla) – Two pairs of Blackcaps were seen in two different locations in the Czech Republic. The first pair was seen by only a few of the group late in the afternoon of the 22nd while walking the grounds of the park in Trebon; the second pair, seen by almost everyone, was found in a hedgerow outside the hotel in Zdikov on the morning of the 25th. Lesser Whitethroat (Sylvia curruca) – Some of us enjoyed fine views of a male bird in the same area as the above species in Trebon on the 22nd. Clearly a migrating individual. Old World Flycatchers (Muscicapidae) Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) – This species is a very common migrant across much of Europe in the spring and fall. We saw Spotted Flycatchers daily over the first six days of the trip, and then again once in the Czech Republic. European Robin (Erithacus rubecula) – The robin of “red breast” lore was seen on a number of occasions throughout the trip. In Hungary some of us had good views of a single bird on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel, and then glimpses of another on the plateau in Bukk National Park. It was in the Czech Republic, however, where we did so well with

the bird. In particular, the adult we saw in Sumava National Park, while eating our field lunches, provided the best quality views. European Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca) – A very late migrant, an immature bird, was spotted among a small flock of birds in the woods by the large fish pond outside the town of Cesky Budejovice, Czech Republic, on the 23rd. A very unexpected find. Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) – This handsome species proved delightfully common over much of the tour route, and in myriad habitats from cities to mountain streams. Especially memorable were the birds along the Vlatava River outside the village of Cesky Krumlov. Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra) – A group of migrating birds was seen pretty well in a corn field south of Bugyi on our first morning out. European Stonechat (Saxicola rubicola) – At least one male stonechat Black Redstart © Mahlon Hale was seen among the above mentioned whinchats. Another was seen by the lake south of Bogac in the Bukk Mountains. Thrushes & Allies (Turdidae) Eurasian Blackbird (Turdus merula) – This bird was seen on more days of the trip than any other bird. It is common and widespread across most of its European range including Hungary and the Czech Republic. Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris) – At moderate range we enjoyed scope views of a couple of Fieldfares amid the scores of Mistle Thrushes in a short field near the entrance to Sumava National Park, Czech Republic, on the 24th. Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos) – Amid the same gathering of Mistle Thrushes and Fieldfares were a couple of Song Thrushes. The great size differential between Song Thrush and Mistle Thrush was readily apparent. Prior to this sighting, we also had scope views of a perched bird at the hotel in Nosvaj in the Bukk Mountains back on the 18th. Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus) – In the world of European thrushes, the large Mistle Thrush is king of the beasts. We came across several large groups of Mistle Thrushes foraging in agricultural fields in the mountains near Sumava National Park. Side-by-side size comparisons with the above species were helpful and instructive. Starlings (Sturnidae) European Starling (Sturnus vulgaris) – Abundant in tolerably low numbers throughout the trip; but hey, at least they are native here. Wagtails & Pipits (Motacillidae)

Western Yellow Wagtail (Motacillaflava) – Without question, White Wagtail is the most frequently encountered wagtail in Hungary and the Czech Republic, yet enough time in the field will eventually produce the less common Western Yellow and Gray wagtails. And so it was when on September 18 we visited the large lake south of Bogac in the Bukk Mountains for some morning birding and we turned up a couple of Western Yellow Wagtails. These were migrant birds and the only individuals that we saw. To be sure, this bird is not rare, but neither is it common and abundant. Gray Wagtail (Motacillacinerea) – We also saw this bird at the same place as the above species, but really we had to wait until we arrived in the Czech Republic before we scored big. Our first high quality encounter with the species was the discovery of a foraging bird in the small stream adjacent to the fish ponds outside Trebon. The next day we enjoyed exceptional views of a couple of birds below the weir on the Vlatava River at Cesky Krumlov, and then another in a tree by the small stream at the entrance to Sumava National Park, and still another on the last morning outside the hotel in Zdikov. White Wagtail (Motacillaalba) – As indicated above, this is the most common and frequently encountered wagtail species in Hungary and the Czech Republic. As expected, we had no problems in finding it in a variety of habitats. Although the bird was not seen on every day of the trip, we did record it in each major area we visited. Tree Pipit (Anthustrivialis) – The morning of September 18 marked the start of our second day in the Bukk Mountains of Hungary. To start the day the chief activity was a birding walk above the hotel in the village of Nosvaj. Amid the non-stop flurry of activity, a single Tree Pipit was seen by some of the group perched in the branches of a European Willow. More than likely, this bird was a passage migrant, not to mention the only one we saw. Buntings & New World Sparrows (Emberizidae) Yellowhammer (Emberizacitrinella) – This beautiful bunting is unusual in several ways. First, with yellow face and breast, it looks nothing like any of the other European buntings; and second, it is also a hardier bird than its congeners. While the other buntings mostly migrate to warmer regions as summer turns to fall, the stout Yellowhammer maintains a year-round presence across much, if not most, of its range. Our first Yellowhammer was a bird perched in some bare branches along the highway near Cesky Budejovice on the 23rd. Sadly, the bird flew before it was seen by all. Happily, we enjoyed fine views of a couple of perched birds outside the hotel in Zdikov on the 25th. Finches, Euphonias& Allies (Fringillidae) Common Chaffinch (Fringillacoelebs) – Chaffinches were seen on five different days of the trip. Despite its name, the bird was not exactly common on this trip, yet we still managed good looks at both immature and adult birds here and there. Seen in both Hungary and the Czech Republic. Eurasian Bullfinch (Pyrrhulapyrrhula) – By the time September 25 rolled around, we could reflect with pride and joy on our birding experiences to date. From Hungary to the Czech Republic it seemed we had logged one exceptional sighting after another. However, one bird that had eluded us to this pointwas Eurasian Bullfinch, one of Europe’s loveliest birds. Featuring a pastel collage of pink-orange-melon and powder blue-gray, this bird adds brightness to the life of anyone lucky enough to lay eyes on it. While not rare, one must be in the right habitat to have a chance to see it. Our final birding activity of the trip was a morning walk outside the hotel in Zdikov. It was on this outing that we found our

first bullfinches, an immature male and an adult female. We were off to a good start. A short while later we finally located a male bird perched in a deciduous tree on the opposite side of the highway from the hotel. However, it wasn’t until later in the morning when we discovered two males and a female quietly munching seeds in a maple tree over the hotel entrance. For the next 30 minutes we simply basked in the opportunity of extended views of this beautiful bird. Red Crossbill (Loxiacurvirostra) – This was the last new bird of the trip and one we discovered literally as we were leaving Zdikov for Prague. No sooner had we boarded the bus when Balazs spotted a small group of crossbills perched in a small conifer outside the entrance to the hotel. Disembarking as quickly as we could, we set the scopes up in rapid order. Fortunately for us, the birds lingered long enough for everyone to enjoy. These birds were of the race curvirostra, known in Europe as “Common Crossbill,” but a close relative to the Red Crossbills of North America. Eurasian Siskin (Spinusspinus)– This trip was wonderful for seeing this species. We enjoyed marvelous views of siskins on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel on the first afternoon of the trip, around the hotel in the Bukk Mountains several days later, and at two locations in the Czech Republic: near the fish ponds outside Trebon on the 22nd, and outside the hotel in Zdikov on the 25th. European Goldfinch (Cardueliscarduelis) – Seen on three different days of the trip, all in Hungary. Eurasian Linnet (Cardueliscannabina) – The only representative of this small finch was a pair of immature birds hanging around the edge of the lake south of Bogac in the Bukk area on the 18th. European Serin(Serinusserinus) – Serins were rather elusive, with only a couple of birds seen. We located a small group of serins above the hotel in Nosvaj, Hungary during our morning walk on the 18th. Hawfinch (Coccothraustescoccothraustes) – Hawfinches were seen on four different days of the trip. Our top experiences with the bird occurred on the first afternoon, when we located a small group on the grounds of the Forster Palace Hotel, and then again at the hotel in Nosvaj in the Bukk area where, in similar fashion, we located a small group of birds on the hotel grounds. In both instances we enjoyed lengthy scope views. Old World Sparrows (Passeridae) House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) – Abundant in cities and towns throughout. Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) – This bird was seen on six different days of the trip; however, for many of us, it really was not seen particularly well until the 25th. This was our final morning in the Sumava region, and we located several Tree Sparrows amid the hedges and small trees outside the hotel in Zdikov. Total: 137

Mammal List Rabbits & Hares (Erinaceusroumanicus) European Hare (Lepus europaeus) – A couple were seen in low cut fields in the Tiszaalpar andHortobagy regions on the 15th and 16th.

Deer (Cervidae) Roe Deer (Capreoluscapreolus) – A fairly common and widespread animal, we saw them on more than half the days of the trip. Water Buffalo (Bubalisbubalis) – The water buffalo is a domesticated beast, but an animal that nonetheless garnered considerable interest among the group. It is thought to have been domesticated from ancient wild stock at least four thousand years ago. We saw Water Buffalo in both Kiskunsag and Hortobagy national parks, Hungary.