E51280
6 / 2016
COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING
WWW.COSSMA.COM
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE Checking out the latest ingredient concepts
SPOTLIGHT: FORMULATION CONCEPTS A broad selection of creamy delights
Siân Sutherland
“HOW TO GIVE BIRTH TO NICHE BRANDS” MARIANNE BRANDT from ProDerm explains how to substantiate marketing claims in hair care
COS1606_01_Cover.indd 1
17.05.16 14:11
Fed up with bad hair days?
OFFICIAL LAUNCH AT
in-cosmetics Paris
Dare to change your hair routine with our NEW TILAMAR® polymer range Why wait for a change? Dare to be different! After all, fortune favors the brave. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Your new look becomes your new outlook. Go on, do it! DSM Hair Care changes peoples’ perspectives by providing new and different inspiration, encouraging to change the routine, and delivering excellence to create meaningful relationships.
Scan this code now to watch the video about our
new TILAMAR® conditioning polymer range. Or visit www.dsm.com/markets/personal-care/en_US/products/ products-ranges/tilamar.html
CSDE1606_DSM.indd 2
04.05.16 07:40
EDITORIAL
IS YOUR HAIR BEAUTIFUL? What does beautiful hair look like? Traditionally, the standards of what constitutes beautiful hair are quite narrow. According to a new study commissioned by Dove Hair, only 11% of women love everything about their hair.1 86% of US women think that media and society put a lot of pressure on women to have hair look a certain way1. Most women – 81%, in fact – feel that hair as shown in the media makes women in general feel bad about the hair they have1.
FORMULATIONS Check out delightful formulation concepts appealing to all senses, starting on page 48
“Our research indicated that the vast majority of women … feel tremendous pressure to conform to societal beauty norms”, said Rob Candelino, Unilever VP of Marketing and General Manager of Hair Care. Dove Hair’s new #LoveYourHair campaign and video* are now challenging conventional beauty norms and celebrating all hair types, textures, styles and colours. Its message is that beautiful hair is not singularly defined, but is an expression of self that should make women feel beautiful. The video showcases the stories of real women who wear their hair how they choose, regardless of external pressures. The aim is to inspire more women to do the same. 90% of women agree that it would be great if all women decided to love their hair and celebrate it1.
PEPTIDES How do peptides work? Find out from page 34
Find out more on what it takes to create products for beautiful hair in our GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE special starting on page 12. 1
Dove Hair Study conducted by Edelman Intelligence in December 2015 *www.multivu.com/players/English/7816151-dove-beautiful-hair-loveyourhair/
Sincerely yours,
DOWNLOADS
photo: Pauline Fabry
Angelika Meiss Senior editor, COSSM
Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00001 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6
FOLLOW US ON:
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
Password: hair
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
www.cossma.com
COS1606_03_Editorial.indd 3
l 3
16.05.16 15:18
Contents COSSMA 6/2016
12
The latest ingredient concepts for hair care at a glance
24
Testing methods to substantiate claims for hair care
33 Editorial
10 MARKETS & COMPANIES
10 News
12 GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
12 Ingredients for tomorrow’s products
16 Guadalupe Pellon, BASF: Improved combability and more
20 Anna Crovetto, Active Concepts: Go blonde – without the breakage
23 Ingredients news
24 Marianne Brandt, Stephan Bielfeldt, Dr Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, ProDerm: Measuring curl retention and more
28 Aymeric Vague, Serac: Optimised filling process
32 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International global launches
34 INGREDIENTS
20
Going blonde – without the damage
4 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_04_Inhalt.indd 4
34 Belinda Carli, Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS): Powerful peptides
38 Formulations: Sun care and more
40 BACKGROUND
40 Star of the Month: A smarter fragrance
42 Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics: Global beauty trends
www.cossma.com
18.05.16 10:28
ZS_Care-Anzeige_Haare-2016_A4_FINAL.indd 1 CSDE1606_Zschimmer.indd 5
16.12.2015 11:41 04.05.16 07:51
Contents COSSMA 6/2016
48
Formulation concepts that appeal to all the senses
48 SPOTLIGHT: FORMULATION CONCEPTS
42
What are the most relevant global beauty trends?
48 Formulation concepts: Creamy delights
52 PACKAGING
52 Cosmetic Business: Meeting the suppliers
55 Packaging news
56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
52
Meeting the suppliers at Cosmetic Business
56 Interview with Siân Sutherland, Mama Mio and Mio: Giving birth to new brands
59 People
60 SERVICES
38 Download List
60 BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH: Meet your business in Munich
61 Events Diary
62 Suppliers’ Guide
65 Advertisers’ Index
66 Masthead Page
66 Preview
Front cover picture: Tom Arden
6 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_04_Inhalt.indd 6
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 14:31
EPC_201605_AZ_210x297_Cossma_en_RZ_ZW.indd 1
02.05.16 13:30
CSDE1606_Evonik.indd 7
09.05.16 08:12
SERVICES
Free Downloads for Subscribers | www.cossma.com/download
CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: WWW.COSSMA.COM/TV
GERALD MARTINES
THOMAS KEISER
Director of inno vation at Qualipack
General Manager at Industrieverband Körperpflege & Waschmittel (IKW)
talks about the development of the market for airless dispensers.
explains the market development in Germany in 2015.
COSSMA DOWNLOAD-TIP IN JUNE Manuela Salmina-Petersen from Dr. Straetmans explains what ingre dients serve best to make a formulator’s life easier. She points out what major challenges are formulators confronted with today and what has to be considered in different product types in terms of a formulation’s effectiveness and sensorial profile.
Realise a large variety of different viscosities and textures without affecting the sensorial profile
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/download Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
Top-Downloads for June BACKGROUND
Structure of Oxyresveratrol (Sabinsa)
NICOLAS LASBISTES
VIDEO
Omyadent (Omya)
Global Technical Marketing Manager at Clariant
SUPPLIERS
Market Survey Process Technology
talks about Clariant’s offer in the field of sustainable ingredients for personal care.
FORMULATION
Natural Slimming Cream (Impag)
Luxury Packaging Development Leader at P&G Prestige talks about an award-winning perfume bottle and the latest trends in luxury packaging.
8 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_08_Download.indd 8
LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at www.cossma.com/download
photo: Sergey Nivens, Shutterstock.
DR. SIMON ELMER
www.cossma.com
20.05.16 13:04
– ADVERTISEMENT –
Merck Presents New Highlights at In-Cosmetics Dr. Karl-Christian Gallert, Head of Cosmetics at Merck, presents Merck’s latest launches at In-Cosmetics, including Timiron® Halo White for trendy make-up highlights, new RonaCare® Essential Ingredients, comprehensive compendia, color forecast and marketing initiatives
Merck, a leading science and technology company, presented innovative pigments as well as new active ingredients and concepts at the in-cosmetics 2016. Merck’s colorful new branding lends its stand a completely new appearance, underscoring the broad, innovative and diverse portfolio of pigments and functional materials.
SMART EFFECTS FOR “EFFECTS OF LIGHT” Smart EffectsTM is Merck’s new brand for the next generation of preTM
mium cosmetic effect pigments. “Effects of Light” and “Revolutionize Performance” will now be used as themes for the successive launches of new effect pigments that captivate consumers with their extraordinary effects and impressive properties. The first product launched under this umbrella brand is Merck’s new effect pigment Timiron® Halo White. The innovative pigment gives creams, lotions, foundations and makeup products a natural shimmer that refines facial features and produces light effects precisely where sunshine illuminates a face on a summer day: on the forehead, nose, chin, and cheekbones.
NEW RONACARE® DEVELOPMENTS
have been added to the portfolio, with which manufacturers can meet international legal requirements and significantly accelerate their supplier qualification processes.
BSB INNOVATION AWARD FOR RONACARE® SERENESHIELD Merck, has been recognized with the BSB Innovation Award 2016 in the category “Cosmetics/ Raw Materials/ Functionals” for its active ingredient RonaCare® SereneShield. The award for chemical raw materials and cosmetics was created by the independent consultation and service office Dr. Riedl, Hamburg. RonaCare® SereneShield is a pioneer of Merck’s dermocosmetics portfolio. The special mechanism of action of RonaCare® SereneShield acts where skin problems arise: within the skin’s microflora and the sebaceous glands.
MARKETING INITIATIVES AND DERMOCOSMETICS The two marketing initiatives “These lips are made for kissing” and “Dress up your skin” target very specific application areas. They show in practical terms how effect pigments can be used in lipsticks, innovative lip products, as well as facial and body care to pick up on color and style trends and to give them that special something. Another highlight is the dermocosmetics concept, which introduces selected cosmetic active ingredients for the care aspect of problem skin.
To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at www.cossma.com/merck Further information: www.merck4cosmetics.com Ready to open up new possibilities for your markets?
With RonaCare® Essentials product line, Merck offers the main components for top-quality cosmetic formulations. A multitude of new products
To find out more, please write to us at
[email protected]
COS1606_PR-Merck_185x130.indd 1
5
13.05.16 17:31
good reasons for reading COSSMA! Discover today your competitors‘ plans for tomorrow!
1
2 5
COSSMA Formulations, industry trends, market data
3
COSSMA Search and download from our archives
COSSMA Interactive E-paper
4
COSSMA Free classified advert for subscribers
COSSMA 10 issues a year 192 Euros (Germany) 198 Euros (outside Germany)
Order today, at www.cossma.com/subscription • or via the hotline: +49 (0)7243 7278-162 Health and Beauty Germany GmbH · Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, 76275 Ettlingen · Germany, Phone: +49 (0)7243 7278-162 Fax: +49 (0)7243 7278-252 · E-mail:
[email protected]
931-16_EA_Cossma_Abo_1-2q.indd 3 COS1606_08_Download.indd 9
09.05.16 13:04 10:05 20.05.16
MARKETS & COMPANIES NEWS
SHOPPING SPREE VANTAGE | Vantage acquired the net assets of Resources of Nature LLC, and thus their complementary product lines with active ingredients, treated powders, dispersions, specialty pigments, emulsifiers and sensory ingredients. They also acquired one of the largest jojoba farms in Arizona from Cocopah Nurseries. The farm is comparable in size to Vantage’s nearby existing farm, which was acquired in 2012 when Vantage purchased Desert Whale Jojoba. www.vantagegrp.com www.resourcesofnature.com
MALE GROOMING IN THE MIDDLE EAST ACQUISITION AIROPACK | The company has acquired 50% of the Airolux joint venture currently owned by Resilux. www.airopack.com
Samples cater to low incomes
JOHNSON & JOHNSON | The company has acquired NeoStrata, a global supplier in dermocosmetics, including their affiliates and parent company TriStrata.
PO FR
BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST | According
MIN
to Euromonitor figures supplied by the organisers of Beautyworld Middle East, Middle East men spent USD 662 million on male grooming products in 2015, including shaving gear, skin care, hair care, bath and shower, toiletries and deodorants; this is estimated to grow 25% over the next 4 years to reach USD 829 million in 2019. The growth is even more evident in the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council), with the retail value of the region’s men’s grooming market projected to grow 32% from 2015 to 2019, increasing from USD 426 million to USD 561 million.
EU w Ther exclu silico and sise ral give this latio prod
www.m
www.beautyworldme.com
www.jnj.com
Ch
EUR
opin sona regio alter cond ers a
Sachets appeal to low earners
CENTRES OF EXCELLENCE SHISEIDO | The company will establish Centres of Excel-
EXPANSION DOW CORNING | Dow Corning has completed a USD 6 million expansion at its silicones manufacturing plant in Midland, MI, in order to provide the personal care markets with a reliable supply of silicone elastomer blends. www.dowcorning.com
8%
The global dermatology market is expected to see a CAGR of almost 8 % by 2022
Dermatology market
lence to nurture globally competitive brands: a centre in Japan will focus on skin care; makeup and digital marketing will be based in New York; Paris will house the fragrance centre. Americas Innovation Center has been expanded to prioritise the development of colour cosmetics products that build on Shiseido’s 140-year heritage.
GBI RESEARCH | The global dermatology market is set to experience strong growth from USD 20 billion in 2015 to USD 33.7 billion by 2022, representing a compound annual growth rate of 7.7%.
www.shiseido.co.jp
www.gbi-research.com
10 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_10_News_Market.indd 10
www.cossma.com
16.05.16 15:23
photos: Mykola Mazuryk, Shutterstock.com
www.euromonitor.com
www.e
Men’s grooming market to increase by 32% in the GCC by 2019
photos: Coprid, Zurijeta, Shutterstock.com
EUROMONITOR | Interest in beauty and personal care is growing throughout the five emerging markets of Nigeria, Indonesia, Mexico, the Philippines and Turkey (NIMPT). A preference for lighter skin tones across these markets has ensured a growing demand for skin whitening products, especially in the Philippines, Indonesia and Nigeria. Male grooming represents a small but emerging segment. Smaller packages of beauty and personal care products, such as sachets, are available throughout the NIMPTs to cater to low-income consumers.
Seek
MARKETS & COMPANIES NEWS
N
POTENTIAL FOR “FREE FROM” PRODUCTS?
ding the ast, n on cludbath this xt 4 019. GCC etail mar5 to n to
14%
www.mintel.com
marketed as “free from” in the EU amount to 14%
Challenge due to water-scarcity EUROMONITOR | As water scarcity increases across developing regions, manufacturers of rinse-off beauty and personal care (BPC) products will face challenges in these regions. A key priority is therefore to develop affordable alternative ingredients designed to be used in water-scarce conditions – a big opportunity for ingredients manufacturers and BPC companies. www.euromonitor.com
J E L LY B A B Y WITH SMOOTH OILS FOR SOFT LIPS C L E A R , W E T- S H I N E B A L M
photos: Mykola Mazuryk, Shutterstock.com
W I T H M U LT I - C O L O U R E D S PA R K L E S
photos: Coprid, Zurijeta, Shutterstock.com
logy owth 33.7 ound
MINTEL | Only 14% of recent hair styling launches in the EU were marketed as “free from” and just 3% as organic. There is definite room for more products to tout the exclusion of chemical ingredients such as silicones, parabens and sulphates, and just as much space to emphasise the inclusion of more natural and “quality” ingredients, given consumer interest in this area and further EC regulation of preservatives in BPC products. The hair styling launches
FAC E E Y E S L I P S N A I LS I T ‘ S
Seeking ingredients for water-scarce conditions
O U R
N A T U R E®
A bientôt à
MakeUp in Paris 2016 Booth A16
Faber-Castell Cosmetics • Germany www.cossma.com www.fc-cosmetics.com
a.com
COS1606_10_News_Market.indd 11
l 11
16.05.16 15:23
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
In t
Ing hai
T
dien ble n skin
Ant
Luca is a ingr ulat resp serv tem
www.l
Unip ti-da is th used
www.u
Hel
photo: Margo Black, Shutterstock.com
Exsy avai acti arct and and cult hair day also sect
12 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_12_HairCare.indd 12
18.05.16 10:30
www.e
Alte
Hall a m give neer orat
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Ingredients for tomorrow’s products Ingredients | If you are looking for interesting new hair care ingredients, this selection will prove helpful.
T
he ingredients listed here fall in a variety of categories ranging from intense active ingredients to ingredients that are suitable not only for hair care but also for skin care products.
argan and other precious oils to nourish the hair in a natural way, while providing enhanced stability to the formulation. This ingredient provides luminous and soft hair without using silicones.
Vivimed Labs | The company’s range of Jarocol Bases provides essential building blocks to meet all these requirements and easily create bespoke formulations, see page 23. www.vivimedlabs.com
www.hallstar.com
Anti-dandruff action Lucas Meyer Cosmetics | Defenscalp is a multifunctional plant-derived ingredient designed to naturally regulate the Malassezia proliferation, responsible for dandruff, while preserving the scalp microbiota ecosystem. www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Uniproma | PromaCare-PO is an anti-dandruff agent and antipruritic; it is the only one of its kind that can be used in leave-on hair products.
Enhancing the hair colouration process and colour protection Active Concepts | Active.Lite Hair protects the hair whilst simultaneously allowing successful bleaching and colouring, see article starting on page 20. This self-supporting, highly stable formula utilises matrix style scaffolding and poly-compound reactions. www.activeconcepts.it
Styling aids and heat protection AkzoNobel | Amphomer Edge polymer provides the good stiffness and high humidity resistance of our current Amphomer polymer but also offers improved long-lasting hold, durability and unsurpassed style retention, see page 23. www.akzonobel.com
Ashland | Polyelectrolyte Complex Three (PEC3)* is an offering ideal for mousse systems that supplies both
www.uniproma.com
Helping hair growth
photo: Margo Black, Shutterstock.com
Exsymol | Exsymol confirmed the availability of Capalgin, a hair-care active ingredient, extracted from arctic seaweed with anti-hair loss and hair-growth properties. Visual and in vitro studies performed on cultured hair clearly showed that hair growth was stimulated in a few days. The mechanistic effect was also studied, using cell microscopic sections. www.exsymol.com
“Revolymer’s naturally derived Resin can exceed the performance of Traditionally used ingredients Floratech | Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba are natural, multi-functional esters to reduce wet comb force, provide hair dye colour protection and improve consumers’ perception of hair quality. www.floratech.com
Alternative to silicones Hallstar | Biochemica Argan Shine is a multifunctional ingredient which gives natural shine to hair. Engineered in the company’s Italian laboratories, it combines the benefits of
Interpolymer | Syntran PC 5778 is an active suitable for hair paints but also for make-up formulations such as mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows and lip stains. www.interpolymer.com
long-lasting styling and conditioning benefits to hair through a gel network, see page 23. In hair sprays, Advantage 2VC-P polymer, an anionic film forming technology, functions as a hair fixative. This polymer helps formulators to create cost-effective aerosol and pump hairsprays. Advantage AC-P polymer is a new acrylates copolymer for hair-setting products. This acrylates copolymer provides strong, long-lasting effect on hair. The co-
www.cossma.com
COS1606_12_HairCare.indd 13
l 13
18.05.16 10:30
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Conditioning
tatin ble is hi ingr off app test and mat with the
Beraca | When applied to products such as shampoo, conditioner, leave-on conditioner, serum, low poo and co-wash conditioner, pequi oil acts as a powerful emollient by nourishing and hydrating the hair follicle. Its anti-frizz effect leaves hair shiny and soft, while reducing hair volume and defining and enhancing curls.
www.n
www.beraca.com.br
polymer, with very good propellant tolerance, is ideal for use in aerosol spray systems. www.ashland.com
Covestro | Baycusan 1010’s polyurethane dispersion is used in waterborne hair-styling formulations such as waxes, lotions, creams and foams. The polymer forms a flexible and elastic film around the hair and protects it in any weather, without sticking. At the same time, it provides the hairstyle with lasting hold and can be combed out without leaving any residue. One of the most important criteria for Asian hair, in particular, is that there is no flaking. www.cosmetics.covestro.com
DSM | The three new conditioning polymer members in the Tilamar range are: Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-22. They are the company’s expansion into the global synthetic polyquaternium market. The company seeks to expand people’s perspectives by providing new and different inspiration, giving them courage to change their daily hair routine by launching a “Dare to change your hair routine” formulation box, with innovative formulations featuring the whole range. www.dsm.com/personalcare
14 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_12_HairCare.indd 14
Revolymer | RevCare Natural Effects is a naturally derived film-forming technology that can not only replace petro-chemically derived equivalents, but equals or exceeds their performance. Hair styled with this resin retains a natural feel and glossy look without flaking. It offers good curl retention and environmental resistance. Styled hair will remain in place all day long in the most humid and warm of climates.
Evonik’s amino acid derivative strengthens the hair structure of different types of hair from within
www.revolymer.com
Terramater | Terramater has new hair thermal protection studies of Tersil and Sparclay, as well as Ecocert- and Cosmos-certified raw materials, made with 100% natural clay minerals. www.terramater.ind.br
Tri-K | Barla Q Pro NPNF is a naturally sourced, proven ingredient to prime, protect and prevent future thermal damage to multiple hair types. Derived from food grade golden barley, it contains a cationic component that can be used as a more efficacious alternative to synthetic ingredients. It has a high level of Proline, a thermoprotector, which counteracts coagulation of proteins under heat stress. www.tri-k.com
Uniproma’s anti-dandruff agent and antipruritic to be used in leave-on hair products
Exsymol’s hair-care active from arctic seaweed stimulates hair growth
www.evonik.com
Kao Chemicals | Danox HC-30 is an eco-friendly and ready-to-use hair conditioning agent based on a synergistic combination of cationic surfactants and fatty alcohol that allows single-step formulation process, see page 23.
www.w
For
Acti cide men lact tatin prod moi fits tion
www.kaochemicals-eu.com
Momentive | Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent is a cross-linkable silicone to help restore damaged hair to its original hydrophobic state and form a durable crosslinked network on the hair, which leaves hair conditioned and provides excellent straightening with no frizz when combined with heat that lasts through several washes. www.momentive.com
Naturochim | Inutec H25P, a non-polar conditioner, is a natural substitute for cationic conditioning polymers in rinse-off products. It is non-ionic, non-irri-
www.a
photo: Margo Black, Shutterstock.com
Hair protection while allowing successful bleaching and colouring is high in demand
Wac sion sup low whi fine high ter. in s hair dam imp plea with bles cond han soft prop wat met ing
Evonik | Tego Cosmo C 100 is an amino acid derivative identical to natural creatine occurring in the skin. It rebuilds and strengthens the hair structure of different types of hair from within. This ingredient addresses the different challenges and requirements of various hair ethnicities and qualities and contributes to keeping the hair healthy. It was shown that creatine improves the mechanical properties of bleached and straightened hair and that by building electrostatic bridges, it protects hair against heat damage from the inside out by rebuilding and strengthening the hair structure.
www.cossma.com
18.05.16 10:30
Blue DM whi as f tion for app ly u as w ers.
www.b
tating and completely biodegradable and environmentally friendly. It is highly compatible with all kind of ingredients used in common rinseoff compositions for personal care applications. It has been extensively tested in a shampoo formulation and has been shown to be a good match for Polyquaterium-10, but without any noticeable build-up on the hair.
rodionum, ionerful hyanhiny volcing
www.naturochim.com
Wacker | The silicone fluid emulsion Belsil DM 5102 E makes the hair supple and easy to comb. It is a low-viscosity liquid with a milky white appearance and a non-ionic finely dispersed emulsion of high-viscosity silicone fluid in water. The product is designed for use in shampoos, hair conditioners and hair masks and makes normal and damaged hair smooth and supple, improves combability and has a pleasantly soft feel. Belsil PF 200, with its high refractive index, enables the formulation of shampoos, conditioners and hair sprays that enhance shine and gloss and produce a soft feel. It also has good processing properties, being self-emulsifying in water and readily miscible with cosmetic oils and esters, thus facilitating transparent formulations.
s an al to the hens rent This rent s of ualping own mehed t by s, it mage ding ruc-
0 is -use d on catiohol ula-
P, a atundi-off irri-
www.wacker.com
For hair and skin care Active Micro Technologies | AMTicide Coconut is produced by fermenting Cocos nucifera fruit with lactobacillus to deliver a non-irri tating and effective multifunctional product. This product can provide moisturising and conditioning benefits in hair and skin care applications. www.activeconcepts.it
photo: Margo Black, Shutterstock.com
ndiable aged obic osshich prowith with eral
Small capsule – big effect. GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Bluestar Silicones | Mirasil PEG 12 DM is a versatile silicone surfactant which offers multiple benefits such as foam stabilisation, light conditioning effect and silky feel. Useful for both hair care and skin care application fields, it will be typically used in shaving foams and gels as well as shampoos and conditioners. www.bluestarsilicones.com
Clariant | GlucoTain glucose and natural oil-based surfactants are kind to skin and hair proteins and the lipid layer. At the same time, they offer good thickening and high compatibility with a wide range of ingredients, fragrances, oils and other actives. All GlucoTain surfactants are readily biodegradable and free of Aquatox labelling. New GlucoTain Plus is a lathering cleanser with a new level of flash foaming and deep cleansing power for extra mild hair and skin care products. With its light and abundant foam, it is especially suitable for oily and greasy hair. New GlucoTain liquiFlex is a multipurpose liquid solution suitable for shampoos, sulfate-free formats, shower gels, and hand wash formulations.
We encapsulate your active ingredients. · FOLCO CAPSOLUTE® Specific effect for cosmetic solutions · FOLCO SCENT® Scent varnishes for advertising · FOLCO MICRODEUR® Long-lasting freshness for detergents and cleaners
www.clariant.com
Seiwa Kasei | Amitose R is a glycerin derivative of arginine, produced by binding glycerin to arginine using Seiwa Kasei’s original technology. It has a long-lasting moisturising effect for skin, hair and scalp. Its easy absorption provides hair conditioning effects that repair damaged hair.
Cosmetic, Business Munich,
June 8 – 9,
2016
Hall 2 Booth B 13
www.seiwakasei.jp
Lonza Consumer Care | Polyaldo 101-CC polyglyceryl ester for personal care surfactant cleansing systems such as baby shampoos, hand washes and facial cleaners. The plant-derived raw material provides a mild, high-performing foam boost, improving formulation aesthetics in these systems. It has better flash foam properties than many other competitive raw materials. Research shows a 3x-faster foam build over the first 200 seconds in baby shampoo and face wash applications. In vivo Epiderm evaluation showed that it is a low- to no-irritant on the skin. www.lonza.com
Solabia | Biosaccharide gum-4 (known as Glycofilm or Pollustop, depending on the way it is preserved), a deacetylated branched polysaccharide with a high molecular weight, was developed because it forms a nonocclusive film on the skin surface and hair. www.solabia.fr
Inspired by nature!
AM
Follmann GmbH & Co. KG Phone: +49 5 71 9339-0 www.cossma.com l 15
[email protected] www.follmann.com
a.com
COS1606_12_HairCare.indd 15
FOL Anzeige Kapseltechnik 84x297.indd 1
04.05.16 10:04 18.05.16 10:30
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Im c a
Ing com silic late
COSSMA: What are the current main drivers in the global hair care market? Guadalupe Pellon, BASF: In terms of countries, it is the emerging markets which are driving growth. In recent years, they have contributed over 90% to the
16 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_16_INT_Plantasil.indd 16
growth in the global hair care market1. This was mainly driven by shampoos. In 2015, 39% of product launches2 were shampoos, 21% were hair treatments, and 19% were conditioners. The biggest hair care market (in retail sales value of shampoo and conditioners) was China, followed by the US, Japan, India and Brazil. Hair care continues to be a mass market with an increasing focus on efficacy. In developed markets, however, specific hair care needs lead to a wider product variety. What are the main consumer trends in the field of shampoos?
We distinguish trends resulting from specific hair care needs on three levels: 1. Popular products help moisturise, protect, and repair damaged hair; products that give volume, gloss and shine are also high in demand. In addition to this, we still see botanicals and herbs being under the top claims as well as different free-from messages – here especially for hair care products without silicone and sulfate. 2. On the rise are protein-, especially keratin-containing shampoos, and anti-frizz as well as dry shampoos.
3. P a g s s ti U
Wh for s
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 09:17
:
Guadalupe Pellon, Marketing Manager Hair Care, BASF Personal Care Europe, Monheim, Germany
[email protected] www.care-chemicals.basf.com
photo: Mystic Light, Shutterstock.com
NN Interview partner:
Tod er m ing effic even sues ities hab
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE one source one responsibility
Improved combability and more Ingredients | A new versatile conditioning compound with a performance comparable to silicone-containing products helps to formulate economic, low surfactant shampoos.
3. Products that originally started as being a regional trend are gaining momentum, such as shampoos for covered hair and shampoos that provide protection against air pollution and UV radiation.
ting s on
:
spening z as
What are the main challenges for shampoos? photo: Mystic Light, Shutterstock.com
oispair that hine adbonder fferhere rodsul-
Today’s shampoos need to deliver much more than simply cleaning hair. Consumers expect more efficiency from their shampoo at even lower prices. Wider hair “issues” such as different hair qualities, damages and consumer habits create an even greater
a.com
COS1606_16_INT_Plantasil.indd 17
tional Sensa with ric senso xture te smart ives addit
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00109 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
FEEL THE DIFFERENCE!
SUNSIL-Range: spherical Silica Beads Instant effects Optical blurring Luxury texture
Distributed by IMPAG Import GmbH Fritz-Remy-Straße 25 D-63071 Offenbach am Main Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0 Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90 E-Mail:
[email protected] Web: www.impag.de
IMPAG Group Country Offices Switzerland/Zurich – www.impag.ch Germany/Offenbach – www.impag.de France/Nancy – www.impag.fr www.cossma.com Poland/Warsaw – www.impag.pl Austria / Vienna – www.impag.at
l 17
17.05.16 09:17
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
challenge for shampoo formulators. Shampoos are expected to address a multitude of individual hair care needs, and never to compromise on either cost or performance. To what extent does your latest ingredient help to meet to all these requirements? Today’s shampoos provide conditioning based on the fact that cationic conditioning polymers interact with anionic surfactants. By applying these to wet hair, a conditioning gel phase is formed due to the dilution with our new compound. This gel phase consists of a neutral complex of cationic polymer and micelles formed by anionic surfactants, which then leads to lipophilic interactions with the hair. For a shampoo containing sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), a cationic conditioning polymer, and our new compound Plantasil 4V, a conditioning gel phase with modified charge density is formed upon dilution, allowing both lipophilic and cationic interactions with the anionic hair surface. In addition to this, the non-ionic components of the new compound increase the size and volume of the conditioning gel phase. Compared with other conditioning additives, this allows increased deposition on even highly-damaged hair. Thus, when the hair is wet but also when it dries, it is coated with a thin film of cationic polymer plus anionic surfactant as well as our new
compound. These are then attracted to the negatively-charged regions on the hair shaft, making the hair sleeker, less likely to tangle and more manageable. How does the new compound meet current consumer needs and challenges? Plantasil 4V significantly improves both wet and dry combability and detangling as well as the sensorial performance on different types of hair, equivalent to those of silicone containing benchmarks. Even at higher levels of hair damage, it reduces combing force significantly.
39%
IN 2015 the biggest hair care market was China
In developed arkets, specific m hair care needs lead to a wider product variety
We have tested our new compound on both Caucasian and Chinese hair, and by means of the half head test. Shampoos containing the compound significantly reduced combing work on wet Caucasian hair down to 40% residual combing work. The half-
How is the wet combing performance with varying degrees of hair damage? Plantasil 4V’s conditioning effectiveness on different hair damage levels was assessed using medium to ultra-bleached strands of Caucasian hair, against placebos and against a benchmark formulation. Our compound provided low wet combability work at all damage levels, especially also for highly damaged hair.
In 2015, 39% of product launches were shampoos
What is its performance in the fields of wet combing and sensorial aspects on different types of hair?
head test resulted in high marks against the zero line, especially for detangling, combability and feel of both wet and dry hair. The sensorial performance against a benchmark product containing 1.5% dimethicone was very high, in particular for hair care effect, softness and smoothness. Also on dry hair, smoothness was remarkable. On Chinese hair, too, Plantasiwl 4V significantly improved the wet combing performance: it matched high silicone-containing benchmark formulations. Sensory assessment with Chinese test persons showed very good results in feel and acceptance.
“Today’s shampoos should neither compromise on cost nor performance”
“On the rise are keratincontaining shampoos” Guadalupe Pellon, Marketing Manager Hair Care, BASF
What are the ingredient’s advantages in the process of formulation? When it comes to formulation, our new compound shows clear benefits: it is easy to use in cold processes and compatible with all relevant conditioning polymers. In addition, it offers clear solubilisation of oils in surfactant bases. What is more, our new compound has less impact on foam and no stabilisation issues when compared to other hair care additives. We recommend a dose level in shampoos of 1–3%. □
1 Euromonitor 2
Mintel’s GNPD
Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel
18 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_16_INT_Plantasil.indd 18
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 09:17
CSDE1606_Akzo.indd 19
12.05.16 07:33
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
w
Go blonde –
Act und
Mar
F
colo ing ditio
photo: Olga Ekaterincheva, Shutterstock.com
Blea por
20 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_20_GoBlond.indd 20
18.05.16 10:31
The inun blog mai style is s blea natu subs tend an a the swe hair agen ide, cort hair colo tion atin
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
without the breakage
–
Active ingredients | New moisturising ingredient prevents hair undergoing dye treatments from breakage and chemical ‘burn’.
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00110 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
AUTHOR: Anna Crovetto Marketing Manager Europe Active Concepts Bareggio Milano, Italy
[email protected] www.activeconcepts.it
F
rom subtle rose gold and painted pastels to bright silver and platinum, hair colour fashion is rapidly changing – but at what cost to the condition of our hair?
photo: Olga Ekaterincheva, Shutterstock.com
Bleaching makes hair more porous and prone to breakage The Internet and Instagram are inundated with hair tutorials and blogs showcasing the latest mermaid, pixel, denim and ombré styles. Whether a colour change is subtle or bold, hair is often bleached first in order to lift the natural pigments, allowing the subsequent dye to take on its intended colour. Hair bleaching is an alkaline process that causes the hair follicle to swell. This swelling breaks open or lifts the hair cuticle so that the lightening agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, can penetrate into the hair cortex. Melanin present in the hair determines the hair’s natural colour. Bleach causes an oxidation reaction of the melanin, creating a colourless molecule. The
subsequent yellow tone is the natural colour of keratin, the structural protein and building block of our hair. Keratin exists naturally as a crosslinked helical structure. It is the cross-linkage that accounts for the strength and extensibility of individual hair fibres. The helical structure of keratin allows for inter-bonding between side chain molecules of individual amino acids. There are three types of bonds between amino acid molecules in the keratin helical structure; in order of increasing strength, they are hydrogen bonds, salt bonds and disulphide bonds. The strongest disulphide bond is a chemical bond that cannot be broken by heat or water. These bonds can only be manipulated through chemically straightening (relaxing) or curling (perming) of the hair. The cross-linking occurs at disulphide bridges, which anneal adjacent cysteine residues to form cystine, a feature that makes keratin unique amongst structural proteins. Hydrogen peroxide can also break down this keratin by breaking apart the disulphide bonds present. This degradation compromises the strength and integrity of the hair. By causing the hair to swell and the cuticle to lift, hair can appear dull, frizzy and ‘burnt’. If exposed to multiple bleaching and colouring processes, this damage is further exacerbated,
leaving a raised cuticle layer or even missing scales. The hair becomes more and more porous and readily prone to breakage.
The ingredient’s bio-film acts as a scaffolding rather than a true barrier
MULTIPLE BLEACHINGS lead to a raised cuticle layer or even missing scales
The moisturising ingredient protects from hair weakening caused by bleaches and dyes
New complex prevents bleached hair from breakage Active Concepts has designed a new patent pending complex allowing consumers to ‘go blonder’ without the hair breakage typi cally associated with bleaching. Effective in both salon grade and consumer available dye products, Active.Lite Hair is suitable for any formulation that offers lasting protection and chemical ‘burn’ prevention when under-going dye treatments.
Protects from bleaches, free radicals and peroxides This active ingredient complex, which comprises Polyquater nium-80 & Hydrolyzed Pea Protein & Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract, protects the hair whilst simultaneously allowing the lifting of colour. The complex is a chemically resilient material that ionically binds to the hair cuticle, offering long-term protection from harsh hair bleaches, free radicals and peroxides, in addition to providing much needed nourishment. Due to hair’s daily exposure to mechanical, thermal, and chemical stress, designing a product for maximum protection requires it to work under heavy pH stress and instability. Similar
www.cossma.com
COS1606_20_GoBlond.indd 21
l 21
18.05.16 10:31
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
“protection from hair bleaches, free-radicals, and peroxides and nourishment of hair” to carbonate preventing acidosis of the blood and major tissue systems, proteins act as natural buffers to remove hydrogen radicals and balance pH. Amino acids, such as those common in Pisum sativum (pea protein) can release hydrogen ions in an alkaline environment but also respond to acidity by binding excess hydrogen.
Prevents hair undergoing dye treatments from breakage and chemical ‘burns’
Bio-film acts as protective scaffolding Film-forming properties are a popular claim in modern cosmetics. A film can loosely be defined as a thin layer of something; by
that definition, water on the skin is a film. A bio-film is of more interest: a polymeric chain forming a conglomeration of proteins, amino acids and polysaccharides that creates a complex supporting interwoven matrix. Alone, each substance has its benefit, but together, complex metabolic functions are kick-started that play on small-scale biochemical inter actions. A major benefit of the bio-film is its action as a scaffolding rather than a true barrier: able to support and protect hair whilst still allowing small molecules and hydrogen ions in through its semi-permeable facades. The ac-
tive ingredient provides moistu risation, pH balance, barrier protection, and through this scaffolding, even protection from inevitable hair weakening from bleaches and dyes. Utilising matrix-style scaffolding and poly-compound reactions, this self-supporting, highly stable formula is able to create next-generation, lasting protection for the hair while still leading to successful and attractive hair bleaching and colouring. Tested by independent professional salons, this active ingredient provides healthy hair assurance for a bright and brilliant look. □
– ADVERTISEMENT –
An innovative concept for real-time and accelerated emulsion and suspension stability testing
About the webinar The webinar is targeted at formulators and product developers, product and quality control managers in cosmetics, home and personal care industries. R&D people in Speaker: Dr. Arnold Uhl, cosmetic and related inLUM GmbH dustries are under pressure to develop, test and market new formulations in periods, much shorter than the product shelf life itself.
Accelerated stability testing is a must to allow short development cycles and be competitive. The innovative STEP-technology is explained, allowing the Space and Time resolved measurement of Extinction Profiles simultaneously for the entire height of a sample from top to bottom. This platform technology allows for the characterization of undilute samples in low or high concentration, of low or high viscosity, in real-time or directly physically accelerated. Physical separation stability and acceleration opportunities of the separation according to ISO/TR 13097 are discussed.The concept of comparative shelf life prediction (ISO/TR 13097) and its easy application is shown for selected examples. Q&A terminate the session.
About the speaker Arnold Uhl studied chemistry at Humboldt-University in Berlin from 1989-1994, being particularly interested in organic photochemistry. He received his PhD in chemistry from Humboldt-University in 2001. From 1999-2004 he worked in a company producing instruments for scientific research. In 2004 Dr. Arnold Uhl joined the marketing and sales department of LUM GmbH and was appointed Sales & Marketing Manager in 2009. In December 2015 he was appointed member of the board of directors of LUM (Changzhou) Instruments Co., Ltd. □
photo: LUM GmbH
Date: Tuesday, June 21st, 11 A.M. (Berlin Time) Duration: 30-45 minutes , Language: English Speaker: Dr. Arnold Uhl, LUM To register, go to www.cossma.com/webinar
22 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_20_GoBlond.indd 22
18.05.16 10:31
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
News OF THE Month
News
Good detangling performance
FOR ECO-FRIENDLY HAIR CONDITIONING KAO CHEMICALS | Danox HC-30 is an eco-friendly and ready-to-use hair conditioning agent based on a synergistic combination of cationic surfactants and fatty alcohol that allows single-step formulation process. The easy-to-handle solid product performs well in hair conditioning formulations. In addition, it can be processed at room temperature; this process delivers medium conditioning, suitable for a low degree of damage on hair. For improved performance on more highly-damaged hair and a more intense conditioning profile, the formulation can be processed at high temperature. antistatic effect.
40%
An impressive 40% of females in the UK claim they have been moving away from complex hair care routines lately www.mintel.com
www.kaochemicals-eu.com
For hair styles with long-lasting hold
Not only for spray applications AKZONOBEL | Amphomer Edge polymer provides the good stiffness and high humidity resistance of the company’s current Amphomer polymer but also offers improved long-lasting hold, durability and unsurpassed style retention. Designed for high alcohol aerosol and non-aerosol sprays, the polymer keeps volume in place for over 24 hours. It can also be used in aqueous styling gels, mousses, creams and waxes, where strong, long-lasting hold is desired. The new polymer is compatible in high levels of hydrocarbon and/or dimethyl ether systems. It provides thermal protection and shields hair from heat damage. www.akzonobel.com
photos: HamsterMan, Ipag collection, Locrifa, Leah-Anne Thompson, Shutterstock.com
EX VIVO TEST Building blocks for enhanced hair colour formulations
Building blocks for hair colour products VIVIMED LABS | When developing permanent hair colour products, the composition of the base formulation is a critical factor in providing the desired root-to-tip dye uptake, colour shade consistency and longevity, non-drip application and conditioned after-feel of hair. The company’s range of Jarocol Bases provides essential building blocks to meet all these requirements. www.vivimedlabs.com
INOVAPOTEK | An ex vivo test was developed for hair care products, including electronic microscopy photography and image analysis of before and after charcoal particle impregnation on hair fibres. www.inovapotek.com
COMPLEX FOR MOUSSES ASHLAND | Polyelectrolyte Complex Three (PEC3)* is an offering ideal for mousse systems that supplies both long-lasting styling and conditioning benefits to hair through a gel network. The technology is based on guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and acrylates copolymer – a complex that efficiently coats the hair surface. The attributes delivered with PEC3 include easy comb-through, enhanced slip, natural hold, humidity resistivity, manageability, and shine. Moreover, PEC3 is heat activated with styling tools to produce a strong, cohesive wash-resistant film that provides the benefits of smoothing, anti-frizz, and shine. *winner of the third prize at this year’s Innovation Zone Functional Ingredient Award at the In-Cosmetics in Paris. www.ashland.com
For long-lasting hair mousse
www.cossma.com
COS1606_23_News_Ingredients.indd 23
l 23
16.05.16 15:30
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Whe ure it is such tal m prod cert rato used bly, ther vest the com line falls prod of e In o stud ronm ploy app actu be e tion sign the crite tage ical tow ucts prec
Measuring combability and more Testing methods | Marianne Brandt presents a number of sophisticated testing methods with which hair care claims can be objectively substantiated.
H
air is a complex structure with many variations in coloration and texture. Brittleness and susceptibility to mechanical injury which causes hair damage occurs rather frequently. Furthermore, hair is very easily damaged when exposed to chemicals, the environment and daily styling. With the development of a plethora of innovative hair care products supporting a global multi-billion dollar industry, there is an increasing need for more sophisticated testing methods to meet the evolution in these
product innovations and consumer understanding.
Testing methods Various testing methods have been developed and evolved to ensure reproducibility, validity and relevance from both the clinical and average consumer perspectives. Claims for hair products are required for successful marketing, sales and promotion. These statements need to be substantiated by appropriate test methods dependent on the desired claims.
photos: ProDerm
AUTHORS: Marianne Brandt, Division Manager Claims, Stephan Bielfeldt, CTO and Director Research, Dr Klaus-Peter Wilhelm ProDerm, Schenefeld-Hamburg, Germany.
[email protected] www.proderm.de
Com
24 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_24_ProDermHair.indd 24
18.05.16 10:32
Obje how cond othe gard effic help com met cond prod forc The urem hum defi wat com mov tres Com cord
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
When employing methods to measure the efficacy of hair care products, it is important to bear in mind that such methods including instrumental measurements, whilst being reproducible, are likely to vary to a certain degree between testing laboratories, the batch of hair tresses used in the investigation, and notably, product batches under test. Furthermore, although many of these investigative methods are published1-13, the cosmetic industry has set no common testing standards, guidelines or recommendations, and so it falls to the test institute to ensure reproducibility, validity and relevance of each test method. In order to reproduce test results, all study conditions (i.e. climatic, environmental, technical equipment employed, type of hair tresses, product application, and performance of the actual measurements used) have to be exactly identical, and the definition and objectives of the study design must always be in alignment to the desired claim(s) and the claims criteria of the legislation. The advantage of the following in vitro biophysical methods is that they are sensitive toward discrimination between products under test and are both highly precise and reliable.
Combing forces
mer
ired and need iate de-
photos: ProDerm
been e reance rage
Objectively measurable results on how products such as shampoos, conditioners, masks, hair dyes and other hair products perform with regard to conditioning and detangling efficacies1 can be obtained with the help of biophysically measuring the combing forces on hair tresses. This method determines the efficacy and conditioning properties of hair care products by measuring the combing forces on hair tresses that are wet. The hair tresses used for these measurements are from European natural human hair. Pre-wetted tresses with defined, gravimetrically-assessed water content are mounted in a comb element. With a slow constant movement, the instrument pulls the tress across the combing element. Combing forces are continuously recorded and displayed by the instru-
NN GLOBAL HAIR CARE INDUSTRY Throughout history, a woman’s hair has been seen as a manifestation of her femininity and desirability. Today, hair and the obsession with it has generated a global industry that not only addresses female concerns but those of men, children and babies, with brands offering an overwhelming array of shampoos and conditioners, hair dyes, styling products, wigs, etc., accompanied by celebrity hairdressers and hairstyle media fashionistas.
ment’s software. A matching of the tresses into groups can also be performed and the mean initial combing forces of each group of tresses will then be comparable for all test products (see lead photo Fig.1*). In this pre-post design, the reduction of wet or dry combing forces is determined to substantiate the claims such as combability, conditioning, detangling, easy-to-comb, etc.
Suppleness and flexibility Improving softness, suppleness or flexibility of hair is a very desirable consumer need. The ability of products such as shampoos and conditioners to achieve these properties can be measured with the suppleness evaluation1, 2. In a pre-post design, the reduction of forces needed to pull the tress along a number of metal bars is determined to substantiate claims (Fig. 2*) such as “makes hair softer”, “hair is more supple”, “dreamy soft and smooth”, etc.
Breakage resistance to combing The process of combing hair either wet or dry will result in varying de-
grees of hair breakage. The degree of breakage through combing is increased if the hair has been treated with dyes, chemicals or harsh detergents. How effective products such as hair shampoos, conditioners, masks or hair dyes perform with regard to protection or resistance to hair damage caused by combing can be objectively assessed with the help of biophysically measuring hair breakage after multiple combing of hair tresses3. In a pre-post design and comparison to reference, the change in tress weight is determined to help provide substantiation for claims such as “strand saver”, “anti-breakage”, etc.
Heat protection Heat blow-drying and straightening the hair using a hot flat iron are popular methods of hair styling to achieve a sleek look. Styling with flat irons can easily exceed temperatures of 200°C. This can severely damage hair keratin especially the cuticle scales. The protective effects of cosmetic pre-treatment of ethnically varied hair tresses against heat
Fig. 2: The instrument for measuring suppleness
www.cossma.com
COS1606_24_ProDermHair.indd 25
l 25
18.05.16 10:32
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Hair shine and gloss
COSMETICS INDUSTRY
Fig. 4: Evaluation of hair volume before (left) and after (right) shampoo application
damage can be assessed by high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HP-DSC) 2. In comparison with an untreated non-damaged and an untreated thermally damaged reference, the point at which the hair structure is destroyed – due to the increasing measurement temperature – is characterised by both peak
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00115 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
temperature and enthalpy (Figure 3*). There are different designs to perform the heat damage with a flatiron in several cycles. Using this method, claims such as “heat protection” can be accomplished. As a further evolution into “repairs the hair from damage”, the method can be expanded to include reflection electron microscopy (REM) of the hair strands or tensile testing. All methods can also be used to assess damage
caused by UV, hair chemicals and colour dyes.
Colour protection Colouring hair is both, a popular at-home or a salon treatment for many consumers. Colouring the hair covers grey hair and helps to change one’s style. Whilst the colouring process has to perform in terms of the dyeing process, the resulting colour needs to last and not fade nor change in colour appearance, e.g. brassiness of blonde dyed hair when exposed to sunlight. With the help of this method, changes in colour and colour longevity are measured in a pre-post design with comparison to a reference and/or comparison between different products. The process involves repeatedly applying and washing European hair tresses as well as exposing them to UV radiation. Colour is then measured using a colourimeter (e.g. Chromameter). The colour protection of anti-colour fade products as well as the longevity of colour-dyed hair can be measured to provide substantiation for such claims as “colour fade effect”, “colour protection”, “effective against colour fade”, etc.
“Test institutes have to ensure reproducibility, validity and relevance of each test method.” 26 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_24_ProDermHair.indd 26
No common testing standards, guidelines or recommendations
Combing increases breakage when hair has been treated with dyes, chemicals or harsh detergents
Shine assessments are applied to determine how products like hair shampoos, conditioners, hair dyes, hair styling products and other hair products perform with regard to providing shine. The assessment of hair shine is performed using a specifically designed light box with defined illumination conditions. Hair tresses are treated with products and fixed on roll holders. Tresses are presented to expert assessors in a light box with standard illumination. With such a setup, shine can be rated under conditions comparable to daylight. A selected panel rates the shine in pairwise comparisons under standardised light in a dark room. Approximately 25 pre-selected, trained expert graders repetitively compare different tresses as blind observers and evaluate on which tresses the gloss is stronger or identical. Volume Claims for hair volume and volume longevity are a key requirement for many brands. Products, especially shampoos and conditioners, need to meet the consumer need for long-term styling and product lightness in terms of the style “not-weighing-down” or falling-out due to “weight”. The volume of a hair tress can be determined using a silhouette technique followed by image analysis (Figure 4*). Multiple pictures of the shadow-outline of a rotating hair tress are taken in front of a light source. The 3-dimensional silhouette is then reconstructed and the corresponding area cal c ulated by automated image analysis4. The area measured is proportional to the volume of the hair tress(es). Modifications for shampoos, rinses and styling products are available. Different relative humidities can be chosen to meet the claim specifications, e.g. “long lasting hold”, “humidity resistance”, “volume longevity”.
www.cossma.com
18.05.16 10:32
Fig. 5
Ant
The emp of h of “ cacy frizz com chan hair ana met be i
Ben
Styl as s to d ficac diffe com ing diffe such min need film mea initi eval elas larg eval Goo tiga and
Cur
The hair
d to hair hair and with The perdened Hair ucts sses sors illutup, ndit. A e in nder om. ted, ives as e on ong-
voluireucts, ndiconling s of ” or The deechlysis
hadress rce. e is orreby The al to es). oos, are
can pecting ce”,
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Aus den Tiefen der Erde
Fig. 5: Evaluating anti-frizz effects
Anti-frizz The silhouette technique can also be employed to determine the efficacy of hair product performance in terms of “anti-frizz” efficacy and the efficacy of products to retain “reduced frizz”4. In a pre-post design and in comparison with a reference, the changes in frizz are determined by hair volume changes and image analysis (Figure 5). Variations in the method such as humidity can also be included.
Bending Forces for Style Hold Style-hold claims for products such as styling foams, gels or sprays need to demonstrate performance and efficacy with regard to differences in different types of “style hold”. In comparison with references, bending forces are determined with three different options to substantiate such claims. Single bending determines the maximum bending force needed to break the hold-providing film. Hysteresis bending forces are measured by bending once, return to initial start point and bend again to evaluate the remaining hold. The elastic bending is performed for a large number of bending cycles to evaluate the flexibility of the hold. Good discrimination between investigated products with high precision and reliability is achieved.
of naturally curly hair, led to the development of an increasing number of sprays and fixatives in order to ensure that curls last throughout the day. In the curl retention test, curls are made by wetting hair tresses with water, applying the product and rolling them around a curler. When the tress is dried, the curler is carefully removed and the curled tress is then placed in a climatic chamber at high relative humidity (≥ 75%). The curl retention is then measured at set time periods. In a comparison with references over time, the curl droop after styling is determined over the required period of time to substantiate the claims. Different relative humidities and time periods can be chosen to meet claim requirements. Claims include “curl retention”, “long-lasting curls”.
ImerCare P TM
Die natürliche Alternative ● ●
Making claims acceptable The development of new products that alter the hair, such as condition, shape, and colour requires a number of technical and scientific disciplines working together to generate acceptable claims, as well as more sophisticated methods to match the development of those claims in the evolution of hair product development. □
Curl retention
Dr Theresa Callaghan from CCI contributed to this article, which is part of a presentation at SEPAWA in 2015
The continuing fashion for curly hair, as well as addressing the needs
The example results of the measurements* before and after application as well as the references can be found on the Internet – see download panel
● ● ●
● ● ● ● ●
INCI: Perlite thermisch expandiertes Vulkangestein creme-weiße Farbe chemisch inert verschiedene Korngrößen von 20 bis 800 µm hohes Absorptionsvermögen mattierend und transparent für sanfte bis intensive Peelings sehr kosteneffizient Ecocert zertifiziert
Kontakt:
[email protected] www.lehvoss-cosmetics.com
a.com
www.cossma.com
COS1606_24_ProDermHair.indd 27
LuV_Imercare_Anz_COSSMA_12_2015_RZ.indd 1
l 27
16.11.15 09:44 18.05.16 10:32
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Optimised filling process Packaging machines | Aymeric Vague from Serac reviews the main issues of process optimisation in hair care production and the benefits brought by rotary weight filling technology. all cost-efficiency of their packaging process.
Versatile filling lines for varied products and packagings Based on gravity, assisted or not by a slight overpressure, and using highly versatile filling nozzles, the weight filling technology is adapted for a wide range of products, from
28 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_28_SeracHair.indd 28
17.05.16 09:26
:
W
hat are the consequences on packaging machinery of an ever more extended and segmented product range in hair care? Though not often discussed, the consequences are high: more than ever, filling lines must be highly flexible, easy to operate and easy to clean in order to help manufacturers maintain the over-
photos: Serac
AUTHOR: Aymeric Vague, Marketing Manager Home, Personal Care and Chemicals, Serac La Ferté-Bernard, France
[email protected] www.serac-group.com
liqu The the cons and any be shou Wei vers view 1 to volu The add tain cess bein each and erat
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
s
kag-
:
t by sing the pted rom
photos: Serac
ied
liquid to viscous, sticky or foaming. The use of a gravimetric tank, where the product load is maintained at a constant level, ensures a continuous and regular laminar flow without any pressure loss so that bottles can be perfectly filled flat up to the shoulder area. Weight filling units are also highly versatile from a packaging point of view, since they can accommodate a 1 to 20 ratio, much higher than for volumetric filling units. The rotary weight filling technology additionally offers the benefit of containers all along the packaging process being easily handled. Instead of being moved in line on conveyors, each container is held during filling and between filling and capping operations. Thus the same equipment
for all kinds of shapes (rounded, tapered, reversed, and asymmetrical) can be used, and lighter and smaller containers can be handled with no risk of damage or product splash. Finally, advanced rotary weight filling lines can be equipped with state-ofthe-art brushless capping units that are suitable for many cap types; the containers are closed tightly thanks to torque modulation during screwing.
Optimised running and changeovers Due to the weight filling technology’s natural flexibility, the number of tooling changeovers is reduced. However, when needed, these changeovers are fast and easy. They are based on lightweight colour-coded pieces with blockers: a plug-and-
play system that prevents wrong pieces from being used, even from non-trained operators. The system requires no further fine-tuning of the machine’s settings, which saves both time and product. The specific design of weight fillers, which involves neither piston nor gasket, also significantly saves time when flushing and cleaning has to be done. This is crucial to ensure that the line is available and can be used cost-efficiently when various products are to be packed on the same machine. A special vacuum pump can even be added on the equipment to further reduce the flushing time and thus the total downtime of the line. Rotary weight fillers can finally be coupled with a wide variety of other
www.cossma.com
COS1606_28_SeracHair.indd 29
l 29
17.05.16 09:26
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
Weight filling is the only filling technology that controls the amount of product during the filling process and not afterwards
machines thanks to integration concepts such as our company’s Superblock, which offers the benefit of creating fully synchronised machines (unscrambler, labeller) for higher performance and easier operation.
Accurate filling reduces product loss Reducing the product loss of highend hair care products is certainly one of the best ways to improve the cost-efficiency of a packaging line. The ultra-clean nozzles of rotary weight fillers avoid drops outside the bottle as well as product splashes, a result of harsh handling. They also ensure that the containers are handled well throughout the filling process. However, far bigger savings will be generated by ensuring that the quantity of product inside containers is absolutely accurate. When the bottles are accurately filled, they will not be rejected as under-filled containers or serve as product giveaways in overfilled ones. Such savings can easily compensate for the cost of a filling
machine within a few years of operation. Also, as far as accuracy is concerned, weight filling is much more reliable than any other technology for several reasons. Firstly, weight filling is the only technology that controls the weight of product inside the container after it has gone through the nozzles; that is to say, it ensures that it conforms with the nominal quantity printed on the packaging. This is why weight fillers can be used in legal metrology, when they have obtained an “Automatic Weighing Instrument” (AWI) type approval certificate. The permanent weight control allows to detect any filling defect and to adjust the filling parameters of each nozzle immediately. Secondly, in contrast to volumetric systems, weight filling is insensitive to volume variation caused by temperature changes. Thus, machine settings do not have to be adjusted manually, which is something that is always subject to human error. Thirdly, weight fillers don’t generate any product aeration. Prod-
NN SERAC GROUP AT A GLANCE The Serac group designs, assembles and provides packaging solutions (machines and lines) to industrial companies and end-users, for home and personal care products but also for dairy products and edible oil. It is comprised of nine commercial offices located in France, Brazil, USA, Malaysia, Indonesia, Russia, Japan, China, Spain, and a total of six factories across France (with three), Brazil (one), USA (one) and Malaysia (one). The company has installed more than 5,000 packaging solutions in over 100 countries.
30 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_28_SeracHair.indd 30
The weight filling technology for a wide range of products – from liquid to viscous, sticky or foaming
Simple product circuit for easy cleaning, with no hooks or corners for product to get entrapped
FILLING LINES cost-efficient very flexible easy to operate easy to clean
uct aeration, created in volumetric systems by the use of piston/ cylinder assemblies, is uneven and keeps varying. It thus often imposes an overfilling of containers in order to offset deviations in product quantity. Such give aways can be totally avoided with weight fillers.
Cleaning effluents under control Producing smaller batches of varied products implies more cleaning cycles, which can increase the environmental impact of a production site. This is why, besides being flexible, filling lines must also be very easy to clean with a minimal use of water. Looking in detail at a typical weight filling unit proposed by our company, one can see that the whole product circuit is designed with easy cleaning in mind. This involves making sure there are no joints or gaskets that are hard to clean and subject to wear, and that no mechanical part or dynamic seal is in direct contact with the product. The cleaning time is thus reduced, especially with efficient CIP (clean in place) equipment. Our devices are designed to remove all product traces with minimal use of cleaning solution, both inside and outside of the tank. They work in a closed sanitation circuit and make use of multidirectional sanitary spray balls for a higher impact of liquid jets, as well as a cleaning manifold for a bigger flow of cleaning solution through the nozzles. Tanks are 100% self-draining and convex, with no dead corners where product could be retained. Being able to use a single equipment line for a large variety of products and packagings, while saving on costs and keeping the environmental footprint under control, makes rotary weight fillers one of the best technical options for manufacturers who want to optimise the production process in the hair care market. □
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 09:26
CSDE1606_Albea.indd 31
12.05.16 08:24
GO FUTURE: HAIR CARE
A
ccording to our latest global hair care research, organic and free-from formulations all show scope to help grow the m arket. Newer formats and positioning such as styling powders for beards/moustache, volumising claims that target older consumers, and products with skin-caring ingredients show significant potential within the hair styling market. Across the globe, key markets with the highest CAGRs include India, Brazil, Turkey and China. Meanwhile, growth is set to contract in Germany, France, Japan, Belgium, Canada, Portugal and Spain; it is also forecast to be slow in the biggest markets for hair styling: the US and the UK. And in terms of NPD, long-lasting (43% of recent new product launches), brightening/illuminating (37%) and botanical/herbal (23%) remain the top claims. Looking at global beauty trends as a whole, the hair care market is re-
BATISTE
LIESE
This dry shampoo’s hint of colour helps blend in root re-growth
The styling sheet restores hair style just by wiping it with a sheet
sponding to global trends such as water shortage. Indeed, global water shortage will affect almost 25% of the world’s population in the near future. Dry shampoo continues to rise in a stagnant shampoo/conditioner market. Natural and organic hair care continues to grow in importance, too. US demand for natural and organic hair care is particularly buoyant, but it is the specialist brands that are driving growth with sales of natural versions of mainstream brands in decline. A more developed ethical positioning is needed to compete with natural and organic specialists, especially taking on environmentally friendly elements.
Vegan moustache wax The fashion for facial hair continues and is no longer considered as a neglected/unkempt look, with celebrities and fashion icons helping to make the trend more mainstream. Tapping into the trend are a number of hair styling products specifically designed for the moustache or facial hair. New in the Netherlands from Lush, for example, is the vegan Veerappan Moustache Wax.
Styling in sheet format A new sheet format in Japan is aiming to lend more convenience and portability to the hair styling market. Liese Reset Styling Sheet from Kao claims to easily restore hair style and leave the hair manageable just by wiping it with a sheet. The on-the-go sheet is also said to remove unpleasant odours and is available in an original fruity floral scent, and two newer limited edition varieties:
32 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_32_Mintel.indd 32
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00111 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
LUSH Vegan hair styling wax for moustaches
Fresh Lady, with a fresh, elegant fragrance; and Forever Girl, with a sweet and sour fragrance.
Dry shampoo with a hint of colour Batiste’s A Hint of Color Dark & Deep Brown Dry Shampoo is claimed to instantly refresh black and deep brown hair. For use between washes, this product’s hint of colour complements darker shades and helps blend in root re-growth on coloured hair. * according to Mintel’s Global New Product Database (GNPD) Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel
AUTHOR: Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and Colour Cosmetics Analyst Mintel, London, Great Britain www.mintel.com
photos: Mintel
Product development | Emmanuelle Moeglin from Mintel focusses on innovative hair care ingredients and has selected products which are following the lead of these major trends, as well as some more unusual recent launches.
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 09:28
– ADVERTISEMENT –
INTERVIEW WITH
JULIA CANZLER
DESIGN & PACKAGING This year the slogan of your project is „Symphony of Colors“. Can you tell us what it’s all about? Julia Canzler: For the presentation of our trend colors 2017, we have created a unique highlight by combining colors and music in a fascinating way. The GRAFE Group commissioned an orchestra of the „Franz Liszt“ Music College in Weimar to perform the „Symphony of Colors“. This spectacular piece of music has succeeded in making colors audible for listeners by merging color variations created for our eyes with a sweep of notes composed for our ears. Can you give us some more information about the project? Julia Canzler: The symphony was composed by Daniel Mandler exclusively for GRAFE and the trend colors of 2017. The orchestra in Weimar then recorded the piece. And yet what has emerged is much more than just a pleasurable listening experience. The result is a visual highlight as well. The musicians were filmed as they worked on the piece in the studio. After four days of filming and extensive post produc-
CSDE1606_Grafe_11.indd 33
tion efforts, the film studio has created a little piece of art that shows how the colors emerge from the instruments. They have produced a DVD that captures „The Color Preview 2017“ in sound and images and will be featured in our annual calendar. You can see the video on our homepage and on Youtube. Can you give us a little preview into the colors for 2017? Julia Canzler: The colors of 2017 are marked by extreme contrasts. Shades of green and blue dominate and are manifested in rough variations of aquamarine reflecting the natural greens of forests and meadows. Color combinations are also becoming more natural, the merging of green with shades of brown brings to life the well-known safari style. These are placed in contrast to a deep black and an extreme red. There is a special focus on shades of pink that appear artificial and synthetic when set in opposition to the variations of blue and green. This is perhaps suggestive of our yearning for an exotic paradise. Special attention is placed on metallic colors. In 2017 these colors take on a liquid and flowing appearance.
GRAFE at the
COSMETIC BUSINESS 2016 Booth D 06 • Hall 4
GRAFE Color Batch GmbH
[email protected] | www.grafe.com SERVICE Color Design Experts PRODUCTS Color and Additive Masterbatches Plastic Compounds Pigment Powder Mixtures
Julia Canzler presents SYMPHONY OF COLORS 9 June 2016 11:00 - 11:15 a. m. MOC Munich
20.05.16 13:16
INGREDIENTS
A
pers al su mira gred best is th ble
A sc can
Firs teria them that thes plai mar prod app met mus quir scie in a prod to t the wou mot phy mad
Active ingredients | Belinda Carli provides a convincing example for the mechanism of peptides and explains their implications for the industry.
photo: Lightspring, Shutterstock.com
Powerful peptides
Pep big
34 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_34_Peptide_Carlisle.indd 34
18.05.16 10:33
Pep shor toge pers “pep are sma trav sign
AUTHOR: Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS) Coolum Beach, Australia
[email protected] www.personalcarescience.com.au
A
s consumers increasingly de mand better, faster and more noticeable results from their personal care products, raw materi al suppliers continue to deliver more miraculous materials. The active in gredients which have provided the best results lately are peptides. What is the science behind these remarka ble structures?
A scientific story that can’t be told First things first, let’s put these ma terials, and the products containing them, into perspective. The facts are that as cosmetics, the science of how these materials work can’t be ex plained to consumers in any form of marketing. Cosmetics are defined as products used externally to alter the appearance of the skin, and all cos metic marketing and ingredients must comply with regulatory re quirements. While I can explain the science of how these materials work in an article, a company providing a product containing these materials to the marketplace cannot explain the science to a consumer – as this would be seen as a form of pro moting their product and contain physiological claims which can’t be made for a cosmetic.
Peptides – tiny molecules, big results photo: Lightspring, Shutterstock.com
le r
INGREDIENTS
Peptides are, chemically speaking, short chains of amino acids linked together by peptide bonds. In the personal care industry, the term “peptide” refers to molecules that are short chain amino acids – very small substances – that are able to traverse to the stratum basale and signal physiological changes at the
dermal level, or in some cases, effec tively travel into the dermis and compete with neurotransmitter binding sites to temporarily alter a physiological activity. There are now peptides available to combat unwanted features such as the signs of ageing, whiten the skin and even lengthen the lashes. One of the most popular peptide mechanisms we’ve seen in this in dustry relates to the Botox-like ac tion of a hexapeptide*. This material addresses the signs of ageing by in hibiting muscular contractions that disturb the packing of the lipid ma trix. If you can stop the contractions, the lipid matrix maintains its profile and deformation of the skin does not occur – you effectively stop the ap pearance of a wrinkle. This is done by providing a “mimic” peptide in cosmeceutical form which binds in place of the peptide normally pro duced by the body, to prohibit the muscular contraction. A SNARE complex is normally re quired to release a neurotransmitter which tells a muscle to contract. This SNARE complex contains a pro tein known as SNAP-25, but if this is
replaced by an analogue peptide (the topically applied “mimic”), the SNARE complex is destabilised, the neurotransmitters are inhibited, and the muscle contraction prohibited. The result is fewer facial expressions and fewer wrinkles.
Recent launches of new peptides But there are many other peptides out there with impressive molecular bioactivity to achieve fast and dra matic results. Some peptides creat ing amazing effects include: • Botox like action: BONT-L Peptide Solution (Infinitec) and Argireline or Snap-8 Solution (both Lipotec) • Enhancement of the structural re-organisation of the dermal ma trix: Uplevity Peptide (Lipotec) or Peptiskin (Solabia) • Inducing melanogenesis: Bronzing S.F. Peptide Solution (Infinitec) • Skin brightening: SpecPed H2P (Spec-Chem Industry) or β-White (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) • Eyelash growth: SpecPed SCMH16 (Spec-Chem Industry), Capixyl (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) or SymPeptide (Symrise)
Fig. 1: Pathways and sizes
Particular
Size nm (10-9)m
Size µm (10-6)m
Stratum corneum hydrophilic pathways
0.4
0.0004
Cell membrane
6–10
0.006–0.01
Stratum corneum lipid bilayer
13
0.013
(substances would need to be smaller than this if hydrophilic to traverse the stratum corneum)
(substances would need to be smaller than this if lipophilic to traverse the stratum corneum)
Stratum corneum intercorneocyte space
20–75
0.02–0.075
Stratum corneum thickness
10,000–40,000
10–40
www.cossma.com
COS1606_34_Peptide_Carlisle.indd 35
l 35
18.05.16 10:33
INGREDIENTS
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00116 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
One of the biggest challenges a cosmetic chemist faces is deliver ing an active to the required site. This is because the skin and its layers are, by default, a very good protective barrier. As an exam ple, and to help you understand the way some substances can se lectively travel through the outer layers of the skin, take note of the pathways and sizes in Fig. 1. To pass through the stratum cor neum (and deeper layers), sub stances either need to pass through the cells or around them (the intercorneocyte space). As you can see, water soluble sub stances need to be extremely small to traverse the stratum cor neum. Lipid soluble substances can travel through lipid bilayers when small, but still have similar distances to travel. Even if they can enter a pathway, they then have an incredibly large distance to travel (compared to their size) to penetrate beyond the stratum corneum. This is particularly im portant with the delivery of pep tides – they are extremely small and can traverse to the stratum basale and beyond, but compared to their size, they need to travel an incredibly long distance – so the vehicle, the product base they are in, becomes an essential com ponent to enable the bulk of their passage through the epidermis. Once they are “delivered” to the stratum basale, their ability to travel into the dermis and make a difference is certain – but getting them there is the hard part. Due to the complexity of the skin and the difference in the skin’s layers, substances that have a molecular weight below 1,000
36 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_34_Peptide_Carlisle.indd 36
daltons may be able to penetrate the epidermis if in an amphiphilic base. Standard emulsions are am phiphilic bases, containing both hydrophilic (water) and hydro phobic (lipid) phases as well as amphiphilic substances (the emulsifiers), so they act as excel lent delivery vehicles for small substances to at least the deeper layers of the stratum corneum. The use of osmolytic substances such as humectants can enable penetration to the stratum granu losum level. To provide the re quired activity, peptides must be provided to the skin in a suitable carrier base to reach the stratum basale target site; this is usually best achieved using an emulsion (amphiphilic) base combined with humectant agents and/or li posomal delivery agents.
Potential for overpromising and underperforming? There is absolutely no doubt these materials are expensive. Comparatively speaking, they are more costly than most other ac tives currently available. Howev er, when used in the appropriate inputs and formulated into a compatible base product with good delivery mechanisms to en sure these substances get to where they are most active, the results are certain. What this means is a formula created prop erly, using the right amount of these materials, will always get results. The potential exists for compa nies to try cutting product costs to meet a required sales price; if that is the case, peptides would un doubtedly be the first to be re duced – but that is really to the
Peptide which inhibits neurotransmitters and thus muscle contraction
Peptides combat the signs of ageing, whiten the skin and lengthen lashes
CHALLENGE Delivering an active to the required site
detriment of that company’s de velopment and not a result of the peptide under-performing. An other potential issue is providing these powerful substances in a low delivery base. Using key ma terials to ensure delivery of these actives to the stratum basale will give a competitor product a lead ing edge over another brand us ing the same active in the same proportion but in a poor delivery base. This comes down to clever formulating to ensure the best possible visible results for a con sumer. Finally, appearing low on an in gredient list does not mean there isn’t much of this substance pres ent; on the contrary, and particu larly with peptides, it is because these substances are so small that not much is needed to get great results. As little as 77mcg is all that is clinically required, per application, to get amazing re sults with this peptide; even smaller amounts of different pep tides result in other skin or hair benefits. □ * Argireline by Lipotec Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel
photo: IPCS
Delivery is crucial
www.cossma.com
18.05.16 10:33
Covestro Deutschland AG, D-51365 Leverkusen · COV00073428
INVENTING MANAGEABLE HAIR FOR YOU
Hair can be the mirror of one’s soul. Let’s polish it, protect it and keep it in balance. As a leading supplier of polymers, Covestro, formerly Bayer MaterialScience, enables innovative cosmetics applications. We help you to make the most of your hair care formulations. Baycusan® C 1008 sets new benchmarks in hair care with our three-fold formulation advantage: outstanding properties in protection, repair and styling – for beautiful hair every day. Beauty Made Possible.
www.baycusan.com COV00073428_Baycusan_Covestro_Hair_Care_single_A4_0516.indd 1
06.05.16 10:13
CSDE1606_Covestro.indd 37
10.05.16 07:26
INGREDIENTS
Sun care and more Formulations | This time it is “curtain-up” for formulations for sun care, self-tanning and after-sun products. The full details on each formulation are available for download by following the link at www.cossma.com/qr00113. Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel
BU CAS-BPS&A-COS-MEMLA Leverkusen, Q24, 346 51365 Leverkusen, Germany phone: +49 214 6009 4666 www.baycusan.com PROFILE: With 2014 sales of EUR 11.7 billion, Covestro is among the world’s largest polymer companies. Business activities are focused on the manufacture of high-tech polymer materials and the development of innovative solutions for products used in many areas of daily life. With Baycusan, Covestro offers a product range featuring liquid-aqueous dispersions and liquid alcoholic solutions based on polyurethanes, as well as a polyurea powder – all carefully developed for superior performance. The Baycusan products are the ideal film formers and sensory additive for groundbreaking sun care, skin care, hair care and colour cosmetics formulations. Either in their water-based form or alcohol-based form, they perfectly perform as a film forming polymer with outstanding properties. Using the polyurea powder as a sensory additive offers unique advantages in cosmetic formulations. The Covestro group has 30 production sites around the globe and employed approximately 14,200 people at the end of 2014. Covestro, formerly Bayer MaterialScience, is a Bayer Group company. FORMULAS: SPF 50 Spray; Sublime Oil SPF 50+; SPF 50 Sun Feel Gel Easy & Cold Process Cream SPF 50; Matte Finish Lotion SPF 50 (expected)
F
ormulations with an SPF of 50+ cover the lion’s share of this month’s selection, showing how consumers all over the world are becoming more and more aware of the detrimental effects of UV radiation. Some of the examples providing a very high degree of protection also promise sensorial benefits, e.g. AkzoNobel’s Silky Sun Shield Lotion (SPF 50+) and DSM’s Bare Skin Feel SPF 50+. HallStar’s Oil-in-Water SPF 50+ Sunscreen Cream is claimed to have a nourishing after-feel. Ashland’s HydroSheer Dry Technology Spray** SPF 50 (EU) is a light-feeling mist for broad-spectrum UV protection which applies clear on wet skin. Dr. Straetmans’ Lightening Sun Lo-
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00113 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
tion SPF 50 claims to provide a good skin-feel and good distribution. Alfa Chemicals also offers a SPF 50 Sun Spray, a thin white liquid. In our July/August issue, we will be focussing on formulations for hair care, styling and colour. In September, the focus will turn to creative ideas for body care products. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled. However, neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy.
Soothing Lotion Aloe & Mint A. Brasca
Self-Resurfacing Sun Screen SPF 30+ DKSH
Sunscreen Spray-Lotion (O/W) Merck KgaA
Silky Sun Shield Lotion (SPF 50+) AkzoNobel
Lightening Sun Lotion SPF 50 Dr. Straetmans
SPF 50 Sun Spray Alfa Chemicals
Bare Skin Feel SPF 50+ DSM
After Sun Soothing Oil Spray Nordmann, Rassmann
HydroSheer Dry Technology Spray** SPF 50 (EU) Ashland
Moisturizing After Sun Lotion (20% Urea) Evonik
SunCaps Skin Protection (estimated SPF 20 with UVA Protection) Azelis ZZ Top Cream (expected SPF 10) Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Sun Oil Spray CLR Water Resistant Beach Sun Care Lotion Croda
38 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_38_Formulations.indd 38
After Sun Solarium Lotion GfN Selco Oil-in-Water SPF 50+ Sunscreen Cream HallStar Sunscreen Gel with ZnO and SunBoost ATB Kobo Cost-Effective W/O Lotion SPF 30 with Light Sensory Lubrizol
Sunscreen SACI-CFPA Anti-Ageing Day Cream with Sun filters Sederma Daily Wrinkles Stop Seppic
photo: Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com
NN COVESTRO AG
Mineral Sun Cream SPF 30 Simon & Werner - TER Group Don’t Worry Be Sunny Stearinerie Dubois Baby Sunscreen Lotion Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 09:33
CSDE1606_Sabinsa.indd CSDE1604_Sabinsa.indd 39 45
10.05.16 10.03.16 07:30 09:54
BACKGROUND
StarE OF TH Month Fragrance invisibly integrated in the elegant iPhone case
A smarter fragrance T
he new fragrance case for the iPhone is an intriguing concept developed by the Perfume Holding for Ferrari. This concept creates a completely new dimension to perfume application, as this fragrance iPhone case for on-the-go usage is always within easy reach. This means men can use their mobile phone wherever they are and, at the same time, inconspicuously take a refreshing splash of their Ferrari fragrance. The fragrance iPhone case is a smart, stylish new way to make sure you never have to go without your scent.
Design and functionality The fragrance case not only protects the mobile phone, but also insulates
40 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_40_StarofMonth.indd 40
the fragrance against the warmth of the smartphone’s battery. Comprehensive tests have shown that, due to the airtight sealing, the liquid of the fragrance will under no circumstances be in contact with the mobile phone. The case comes prefilled with 25ml of fragrance and an additional 25ml refill. They will be available for EUR 39.95 starting in July at the Müller drug store chain.
A perfect travel companion The fragrance case is a space-saving way to have one’s favourite fragrance always within reach. For security control during air travel, it is a good idea to take the mobile phone out of its case and show both items separately.
The fragrance case was developed for two Ferrari fragrances: Scuderia Ferrari Black and Scuderia Ferrari Red. These two intense masculine fragrances symbolise the dynamism that has been inherent to the brand for nearly 100 years. Scuderia Ferrari Black is an aromatic fougère fragrance with a delightful lemony note, a floral-spicy heart note and a warm, woody reverberation. Scuderia Ferrari Red is a woody lemon fragrance; it starts with a powerful bergamot and green mint note, continues with a fascinating yet surprising floral heart note and is rounded off with velvety hints of sandalwood and cedarwood. AM www.nobilis-group.com
photo:s Nobilis Group
Fragrances | Scuderia Ferrari Fragrances has come out with an intriguing idea for smartphones: the fragrance iPhone case is our star product this month.
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 09:32
21. 22. 23.
SEPTEMBER 2016 GRIMALDI FORUM,
M O N A C O
This document is published by
New York . Monaco . Shanghai www.luxepack.com
A hall dedicated to formulation, subcontracting and full service for the perfume and cosmetics industry. Exhibition, conferences, workshops, demonstrations will highlight innovations of the industry and help you integrate upcoming challenges.
Request your free badge at www.luxepack.com
CSDE1606_Idice.indd 41
09.05.16 07:40
BACKGROUND
AUTHOR: Imogen Matthews Consultant to In-Cosmetics Oxford Great Britain
Global beauty trends
brighter picture for premium beauty, which rose by 6% in 2015. By 2020, Euromonitor expects an extra USD 20 billion to come from premium beauty, generated largely by the US and China. Globally, the fastest
growth came from premium colour cosmetics, up +8.6%, followed by premium fragrances (+6.6%) and premium skin care (+4.7%). Drivers for premium growth included individuality, authenticity and unique-
42 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_42_ImogenTrend.indd 42
17.05.16 10:42
photo: Dorothea Michaelis
G
rowth in the global beauty industry has been slowing between 2013 and 2015, largely due to a flattening of sales within the mass sector. However, the latest Euromonitor research shows a much
photo: M. Tijana, Shutterstock.com
Events | Imogen Matthews has compiled the most relevant insights into global beauty trends from this year’s Marketing Trends Presentations at In-Cosmetics in Paris.
ness effic fer q Irina Hea show for (+5 (+5 soar by + form ousl Ame “T ping chan “Tim new scrib finin ty, i app This sma bran rese R&D pect she tren whi glob acco wor gage expe new bran hair Niko pany tren stati repr tial the pers by B east pect to 2 ed. exce ants than poly ed to
BACKGROUND
photo: Dorothea Michaelis
lour d by and Drivd inque-
photo: M. Tijana, Shutterstock.com
hews metics xford ritain
ness for brands perceived to be efficacious, sensorial and that offer quality over quantity. Irina Barbalova, Euromonitor Global Head of Beauty & Personal Care, showed the fastest-growing regions for beauty: Africa (+9.4%), Asia (+5.8%) and South America (+5.8%). By country, Indonesia soared by +15% and Saudi Arabia by +14.7%. One of the poorest performances came from Brazil, previously a growth engine for the South American region. “There is less mindless shopping,” commented Barbalova on changes in consumer behaviour. “Time is of the essence and [is] a new luxury commodity.” She described how lifestyle shifts are defining new opportunities in beauty, including a focus on a holistic approach to skin, body and mind. This has ushered in an influx of small and influential niche brands, often the result of digital research. “Digital is replacing R&D and eliminating costly aspects of product development,” she pointed out. In particular, this trend is attractive to millennials, which represented 30% of the global population in 2015 and will account for 50% of the global workforce by 2020. These engaged beauty consumers are more experimental and willing to try new and unfamiliar premium brands in colour, skin care and hair care. Nikola Matic, Analyst, Kline & Company, provided insight into global trends in personal care ingredients, stating that specialty ingredients represent the largest growth potential in personal care. Europe and the US are the largest markets for personal care ingredients, followed by Brazil, China, India and Southeast Asia. “China and India are expected to lead growth potential up to 2020 at around +5%,” he stated. By category, all applications, except antiperspirants and deodorants, are expected to grow faster than average, with waterproofing polymers and UV boosters expected to be even higher.
NN WHAT TRENDS ARE DRIVING THE MARKET? This year’s In-Cosmetics show in Paris, a truly international event featuring mainly cosmetics ingredients, was the largest edition in its 26-year history. A truly international event, it attracted 9,726 personal care industry professionals from 131 countries, up 14% on the 2015 show in Barcelona. In the well-attended Marketing Trends Presentations, visitors were keen to learn about new research data and analysis on the global beauty industry as well as the latest views on green, natural and organic products, dermocosmetology and the evolution of 3D printing.
Focus on the US market
BIG BUSINESS 35% of global consumers use nti-ageing proda ucts and 34% consider using them in the future
Three anti-ageing key themes: holistic beauty, protection from the environment and customised age management
As the newest In-Cosmetics edition will be debuting in North America from September 7–8, several presenters provided insight into US trends. Kline shows emollients as the leading volume category in the US, while conditioning polymers are the most consumed ingredients in the US by value. However, the top 10 suppliers (including BASF, Dow Corning, Ashland and Croda) represent just 45% of the total, highlighting the fragmented nature of the market by supplier. David Tyrrell, Global Skin Care Analyst, Mintel, painted a picture of the US beauty consumer who demands innovation, looks for fewer ingredients and seeks out lifestyle and wellness benefits from products, especially skin care. “One fifth of consumers are looking for organic cosmetics and 31% of millennials want vegan products,” observed Tyrrell, who sees this trend developing in terms of a preference of certain ingredients, such as seaweed in facial and skin care products; coconut oil in fragrance; xoi juice, the new superfruit in skin food products; and other food-related ingredients including kale, spinach, alfalfa, pumpkin and pomegranate. Overall, Tyrrell foresees that the natural and organic trend will continue along with a move to clear transparent packaging. Millennials will favour brands that demonstrate environmental conscience. Crowdfunding as a way of raising finance for new brands will accelerate.
Niche brand representatives Sian Sutherland, Jane Atherton, Jonna Jalkanen with COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss
Key trends in beauty and personal care Bath and shower products as well as deodorants are the most commonly used everyday products but face challenges due to the “quiet” nature of these categories. According to Canadean research, consumers of these products tend to be brand loyal, do not often experiment with new products and tend not to trade up to premium offerings. Ramaa Chipalkatti, Lead Analyst, Canadean, commented: “Most tend to use the same products every day. There are low levels of consumer engagement compared to hair care, skin care and makeup.” Chipalkatti highlighted innovation trends and opportunities, including targeting older consumers and gender-specific needs to help differentiate products in a crowded market. Product examples include L’Oréal Men Expert Hydra Energetic Beard Gel and Human Nature Natural Feminine Wash. Social media is another way that personal hygiene brands can
www.cossma.com
COS1606_42_ImogenTrend.indd 43
l 43
17.05.16 10:42
BACKGROUND
20 % are looking for organic cosmetics and 31% of millennials want vegan products
reach key demographic groups. #MPWR is an example of a US skin care brand that targets tech-savvy teens. Other niche opportunities include cross-category NPD, such as Nivea Extra White Body Serum from Singapore and Lon Ban Sweat Block, positioned as a visual rather than just a body odour solution. Oru Mohiuddin, Euromonitor, Senior Analyst, Beauty & Personal Care, talked about how maturity within beauty markets is driving brands to diversify their offerings and to look at tailoring products to target different ethnicities. “The more targeted the offering, the higher the cost,” she pointed out. Multinational brands are able to leverage their existing brands by mildly tweaking formulations and products, but their offerings tend to be less targeted than niche brands that can offer dedicated ranges or segment by religion. Examples of brands that adapted their formulations to include locally preferred ingredients include Estée Lauder’s Nutritious Rosy Prism for the Asian market and Garnier Ultra Doux conditioners and hair oil with wheat germ extract for the Indian market. Wardah is a halal beauty brand that has experienced a great deal of success in Indonesia, reaching around USD 75 million in 2015. By 2030, the ethnic population in the US is set to increase to 45% of the total; these consumers will have
44 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_42_ImogenTrend.indd 44
58%
Cosme
Ȉ Ȉ Ȉ Ȉ Ȉ
egula
photo: Kobrin Photo Shutterstock.com
Millennials are experimental beauty consumers
higher purchasing power as they on year. North America and Europe, have gone through the education led by Germany and France, domisystem and have better economic nated the category and are continuprospects. Meanwhile, tourist traffic ing to grow at a healthy pace. Howis also on the rise as consumers from ever, the average global spend is Brazil, China, India and South Korea just USD 7.6, which is very low, estravel to the US, providing more pecially compared to the much highbeauty purchasing opportunities. er USD 17.8 in the US. “Only 8% of Jamie Mills, Analyst, Canadean, natural/organic products sold in the US are certified, which is five times spoke on the anti-ageing landscape less than in Europe,” commented and how the concept of ageing is ofAmarjit Sahota, CEO, Organic Moniten seen negatively in society. Youth tor, who described the US landscape is perceived to be linked to success as very competitive with over 1,000 and youthful looks are perceived to brands. By contrast, the organic be the most attractive; even when market is worth only USD 600 milolder models are used in the media, lion in Asia Pacific and reprethey tend to be airbrushed to sents less than 1% of all look much younger than beauty products. their years. Anti-age“There is healthy ing products are big growth from a low business with 35% base, but there is of global consuma lot of greeners using them to washing in Asia.” enhance their apof global consumers For example, Orpearance, accordwant to look younger ing to Canadean, ganature is a conand 34% would ventional product consider using them with no certified orin the future. Further reganic ingredients. search shows that 58% of conSahota discussed the challengsumers say they want to look younges of multiple symbols and logos, iner versus 31% who want their looks cluding ones with free-from claims. to reflect their age. The term “anTwo key trends are the replacement ti-ageing” is used widely and not of synthetic ingredients, such as SLS just in skin care; Mills gave examand parabens, and the use of food inples of anti-ageing products in hair gredients. “The market is driven by care, body care, foundation, men’s consumers who are concerned about eye cream and even nail care. chemicals. There is a rise in ethical Canadean has identified the three consumerism, such as where the key themes in anti-ageing beauty as product is made and its environmenholistic beauty, protection from the tal impact. Organic Monitor research environment and customised age shows a significant increase in conmanagement. sumer awareness for what is included in beauty products, with 43% of consumers looking for symbols and Sustainable issues dominate logos in 2014, compared to 33% in natural beauty trends 2007. There is increasing competiAccording to Organic Monitor, the tion from pseudo-naturals, such as global natural and organic beauty market was valued at USD 11.6 bilLush, Palmolive Naturals and Natulion in 2014 and grew by 78% year ral Essences,” stated Sahota. “The
chal how Juli zine how and goin and up that ing but such nes Fou en t rang shop liste Holl 100 prod I wa coul plai
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 10:42
Ȉ Ȉ Ȉ Ȉ Ȉ
www.p info@p faceboo
BACKGROUND
challenge is, if you’re natural, how do you compete?” Julie Wray, Editor, SPC Magazine, led the panel discussion on how to launch green products, and began by highlighting the ongoing lack of certification bodies and how the consumer is ending up confused. Wray maintains that many brands are now focusing less on natural and organic, but rather on other selling points, such as sustainability and wellness attributes. Jo Chidley, Founder, Beauty Kitchen, has taken this approach for her toiletries range, which is sold from her shop in Glasgow as well as being listed in the wholefood retailer Holland & Barrett. “We offer 100% natural, everyday luxury products, which I started because I was a disgruntled customer who couldn’t find what I wanted,” explained Chidley. “There is no
ope, omiinuowd is esigh% of the mes nted oniape 000 anic milpref all cts. lthy low e is eenia.” Orconduct or-
a.com
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00112 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
Over 1,000 brands in the US make for a very competitive landscape
don. “We created a series of events for organic beauty which provided a link between the maker of the products and the consumer and had high engagement for those conversations,” explained Burke. In her view, it’s not just about the products, but knowing how to engage with consumers’ lifestyles. “Our customers are extremely interested in organic food, products and ingredients.” Premium skin care is a key category and make-up is growing in parallel with skin care. “However, it’s hard to do natural colour so there aren’t
– ADVERTISEMENT –
DIPLOMA and CERTIFICATE COURSES in: Cosmetic Science
Brand Management
Ȉ ȈƤ
ȈƤ
ȈƤ
ȈƤ
Ȉ ȈƤ
ȈƤ
egulator ơairs
photo: Kobrin Photo Shutterstock.com
eng, inms. ment SLS d inn by bout ical the menarch conlud% of and % in petih as atuThe
compromise on efficacy just because the products are natural and customer feedback is an important part of the product development process.” Starting with a large retailer was not easy and Chidley had to find a way to get to the buyer. “The pitch is key,” said Chidley, who made a hand scrub while talking to the buyer in Starbucks. It helped her and her brand stand out from others and Holland & Barrett took five products to sell over the Christmas period. “It was a challenge, but I had the confidence we could deliver. It is a partnership, rather than a supplier/buyer relationship.” Imelda Burke, Founder, Content Beauty, described how she found a gap in the market for selling premium natural and organic products and developed an online business and shop in Lon-
Ȉ
ȈƤ
ȈƤ
ȈƤ
Ȉ
Ƥ
www.personalcarescience.com.au
[email protected] facebook.com/InstituteOfPersonalCareScience
COS1606_42_ImogenTrend.indd 45
Contact us for a full course prospectus www.cossma.com l 45 and pricing - start straight away!
17.05.16 10:42
BACKGROUND
many good natural colour brands on the market.” Sonia White, Founder, LoveLula, first developed Amarya, her own organic skin care brand, which has had worldwide success, before merging with organic beauty online business LoveLula. She is approached by brands on a daily basis and always looks at the brands’ ingredients and ethics. “We were approached so often, that we said no rather than yes. Now, brands can upload their own brand onto the Marketplace part of the site and the stock belongs to them,” she explained. LoveLula’s Marketplace is a kind of incubator for new brands; if they perform well in six months to a year, White may consider taking them on. However, she is frustrated by the lack of certification in natural and organic beauty. “Once we get a unifying standard, then the category will get stronger as consumers will know what they are buying.” R&D/product development SpringPool’s presentation by managing partner Diana Sexauer further explored the theme with a view on consumer thinking in R&D. Achieving a great insight needs lateral thinking, such as asking questions from a different perspective or going beyond words and observing consumers through quantitative and qualitative research as well as up close. This is how innovative products are born, such as Nivea’s In-Shower Body Moisturiser, a first in daily body care. Dr Karl Lintner, President, Kal’Idees, talked about how to turn creative ideas into success. “Your ingredients must have marketing appeal,” he stated.
Two key trends: replacing synthetic ingredients; using food ingredients
“Don’t fall in love with science as the consumer won’t understand it.” A further consideration is the economic viability of an ingredient; if it’s too expensive, no one will buy it. Creating a new category of products and claims or new language, science and stories can all lead to success. He spoke about his work with Maleka Dattu, Founder of Merumaya Integrative Skincare, who used her considerable 34 years in the business to develop a new category of affordable luxury skin care. The seven pillars of her USP are: prevent and perfect, performance, pleasure, practicality, personal, price and patriotism (made in GB). She used digital
By 2030, the ethnic population in the US is set to increase to 45% of the total and will have better economic prospects
KEY CHALLENGE Make products irresistible and so good your target customer cannot ignore you
and social media to build awareness for the range, which is sold in John Lewis department stores. Merumaya Iconic Youth Serum was in the top 15 out of 137 serums tested in Vogue. Caroline Auvilla, Category Marketing Manager, Maesa, explored the meaning of Unique Selling Proposition and how it helps establish a brand in the mind of its customers as the only real choice. Her examples included Benefit, who uses humour to target consumers with products that pro-
vide a solution, and Ruuby, London’s first beauty concierge to help consumers find a salon, spa or beauty therapist. Auvilla gave advice on how to develop a USP using a three-step strategy: knowing your ideal customer’s motivations and desires; identifying an offer that no one else can; and making it irresistible and so good your target customer cannot ignore you.
The business of beauty In 2015, 65 acquisition deals were completed in beauty, representing 30% of the total over 5 years. Skin care was the most sought-after category, accounting for 33% of all deals. Stirling Murray, Managing Director and Founder, The Red Tree, commented: “There is tremendous opportunity for brands that are properly positioned and know what they’re doing.” The reason is that the economic climate is favourable to individuals setting up their own businesses. “Most successful entrepreneurs are over 55 – they’ve learnt the hard way and are reaping the reward,” commented Murray. He explained that the global majors are looking for well-run scalable brands, as they do not have to grow the creative process step by step. Helen Miller, Managing Director, Helen Miller Consulting, whose buying experience includes over 20 years at Boots, gave in-depth advice to new and niche brands looking to break into retail. Having a USP is a big advantage, but before embarking on a meeting, brands must also plan and research the retailer with whom they are hoping to do business. Miller has seen many brands that do not plan sufficiently and end up being delisted because they failed to find out about additional costs such as listing fees, promotional funding and retail funding. She advises brands with a proper distribution strategy to avoid many pitfalls that new brands will inevitably encounter.
46 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_42_ImogenTrend.indd 46
17.05.16 10:42
photo: Zdenka Darula, Shutterstock.com
“Drivers for premium growth: individuality, authenticity and uniqueness”
The sion Seni draw year grow cy, opa Part self wor deve ther preg ago foun atte tra whi ing, the Mio whe wer men new gani rafe toy tries care ic. J mon en, find skin kne for s ral o of m met tical for foun rese on w gut figu nece wor that ma nan Ano brou Cen and on t
BACKGROUND
Lone to spa gave USP owivag an and ood t ig-
ctor, hose over epth ands Havbut ing, rehom ess. that end hey onal moing. oper void will
photo: Zdenka Darula, Shutterstock.com
were entars. t-af33% ManThe e is for osidoecoe to own eny’ve eapnted the for they tive
The niche brand round table discussion moderated by Angelika Meiss, Senior Editor, COSSMA, is a popular draw for In-Cosmetics visitors. This year’s speakers all created brands in growth segments: premium pregnancy, baby care, skin fitness and menopause. Sian Sutherland, Founding Partner, Mama Mio, described herself as a “serial entrepreneur,” having worked in different industries and developed Mama Mio at a time when there were no beauty brands for pregnant mothers. That was 20 years ago and since then, she and her founding partners have turned their attention to skin fitness. “Our mantra is ‘skin strong and bouncy’, which is the opposite of anti-ageing,” explained Sutherland. One of the challenges of launching Mama Mio was that retailers did not know where to position it in-store, as there were no other brands in that segment. Jonna Jalkanen also created a new category for her premium organic baby care brand, Sophie La Girafe, inspired by the non-toxic baby toy that is very popular in 75 countries. The award-winning baby skin care products are all certified organic. Jane Atherton, Founder of Phytomone skin care for menopausal women, noticed a gap when she couldn’t find any suitable products for her skin. As a clinical nutritionist, she knew that oestrogen is responsible for skin density, cell turnover, natural oil production and the regulation of melatonin. She worked with cosmetic scientists to produce bio-identical hormones from plant hormones for her formulations. Each brand founder took a different approach to research: Jalkanen said she focused on what she knew and trusted her gut feeling. Atherton used facts and figures, but was aware they do not necessarily translate into the real world. Sutherland instinctively knew that there had to be a market for Mama Mio, given the number of pregnancies worldwide each year. Another round table discussion, brought together by the European Centre of Dermocosmetology (CED) and Premium Beauty News, focused on the most recent efficacy tests for
Mature beauty markets drive brands to tailor products for different ethnicities
new products. These include a test to measure pollution and dust particles on the skin, developed by Laboratoire Dermscan. Another is a bio 3D-printed skin tissue for the in vitro evaluation of cell responses in contact with substances selected according to product claims. “Smart beauty starts with the in vitro assessment of raw materials on 3D tissues,” commented Nico Forraz, CEO, CtiBiotech. Patricia Rousselle, Research Director at the French Scientific Research Centre CNRS (Centre national de la recherche scientifique), specialises in skin ageing and uses the latest innovations in efficacy testing to evaluate the efficiency of new molecules on processes she identified.
Future outlook Lucille Gauthier-Braud, Perclers, gave a sneak preview of what is coming for Winter 2018 in beauty, based on the five themes: Glamcare, Explorer, Dark Romance, Radical Clash and Girly Fantasy. The fusion of the digital and natural worlds is at the heart of the Explorer trend, which is about making technology less stressful. Gauthier-Braud predicts there will be a big focus on age-old ingredients, such as clay and earth. Design will be influenced by spatial aspects, while 3D printing will take a more prominent role in new product development. Dark Ro-
mance is about simplicity and femininity, harnessing sombre aesthetics and a hark back to nostalgia. Strobing in makeup will be seen as a softer way of contouring, while radiance and glow will take over from anti-ageing. When Antoinette van den Berg from Future Touch predicted at In-Cosmetics 2014 that it would be cool to be old, no one quite believed her, but since then, older models are starting to be used by beauty brands, such as 94-year-old Iris Apfel, who is much in demand and still has a zest for life. Van den Berg thinks that the trend for erasing the signs of ageing is changing. “Plastic surgery is creating a beauty ideal that makes women all look like Barbie dolls with eyes and lips that are too big and out of proportion. Icons like Donatella Versace end up looking foolish.” She believes there is a blur of marketing groups and a move away from extreme beauty to something more authentic. Another theme for the future will be consumers’ much greater concern for the environment, including pollution, beauty miles, and the effects of plastic waste on marine life. “You will have to rethink what you are doing and eliminate ingredients that are redundant to the formulation,” she warned. □ Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel
www.cossma.com
COS1606_42_ImogenTrend.indd 47
l 47
17.05.16 10:42
SPOTLIGHT: FORMULATION CONCEPTS
Creamy delights B
ASF | The new Inspiring Textures concept comprises six new formulations, all of which were substantiated by a sensory assessment with the company’s trained expert panel. At the Sensory Bar of In-Cosmetics the company presented: a transforming GelCream-to-Oil Slim My Body, which combines the convenience of an emulsion with the sensory and application benefits of an oil. Its gel-cream
48 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_48_Croda.indd 48
texture transforms with a caring and silky after-feel. The formulation is suited for use in body-slimming or face-refining products. Delight Me is a butter with an intense powdery skin sensation. Its melting effect transforms the powdery butter into a dry oil and leaves a dry-oily and rich after-feel. It is particularly suited for overnight hand and face creams as well as for dry skin areas on the body.
Clariant | Drawing on 10 years of experience with their ColorForward colour-forecasting guide, Clariant’s new BeautyForward programme uses a discovery process to decode social and cultural trends into Personal Care trends and link them to the company’s personal care ingredients. The trend Pure – Let’s learn to unlearn with formulations such as a Pure Skin Cream Gel and a Pure Hair Conditioner addresses the new
photo: Dmitriy Saveliev, Shutterstock.com
Ingredients | COSSMA features a selection of delightful formulation concepts appealing to all senses.
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 14:14
31st BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 22nd – 23rd October 2016 VARIOUS Around 1,000 exhibiting international companies and brands – the complete spectrum of professional cosmetics EXCITING International championships in Make-up-, Nail-Design-, NailArt-, Lashes- & Bodypainting SCIENTIFIC 2nd Anti-Aging Congress & 7th Podology Congress QUALIFIED Practice-related workshops as well as speeches & presentations at the meeting points FREE-OF-COSTS ENTRY FOR ALL INTERNATIONAL VISITORS!
www.beauty-fairs.de/munich
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Straße 2, 76275 Ettlingen Tel.: +49 (0)7243 7278-164 |
[email protected]
CSDE1606_EAZ_882-16.indd 49 882-16_EA_Image_BFM_A4_engl.indd 3
12.05.16 11.05.16 07:35 11:35
SPOTLIGHT: FORMULATION CONCEPTS
The trend Care – People and technology become one focusses on the concept of technology supporting our body-grooming needs; the modern technologist is always on the lookout for naturally mild and nourishing products that help counter the stress of an accelerating world with formulations such as Care – Serum For Sensitive Skin and a Care – Mild Sulfate Free Shampoo. Dare – I am me represents a rebel girl always on the lookout for the next challenge without being afraid to show her feminine side. Whether taking part in extreme sports or blogging, the new feminist stands out from the crowd while staying true to herself. She favours products for stronger, livelier hair and healthy, vibrant skin such as Dare – Body Cream and Dare – Hair Conditioner.
50 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
The trend Look – Watch me: NOW! is about the new glamorous generation with avant-garde taste, who look for luxurious products and premium textures. These glam fans prefer features like shine and radiance that visually launch their hair and skin to the next level with formulations such as Look – After sun skin care and Look – Beauty balm. Croda | The Be Skinspired formulation campaign brings to life a selection of on-trend formulations that have been developed together by Croda, Sederma and Crodarom to illustrate the company’s total formulation package expertise. Evonik | Sensory Kaleidoscope is a new tool for formulating skin care products with targeted sensory properties. Using the format of a sensory map, the new interactive tool reflects the effect of formulations with different emulsifiers on skin feel. It enables the development of formulations with the desired skin feel and helps to turn current sensory trends directly into new products. A de-
Lucas Meyer | Four Chameleon Textures for a playful and sensorial experience include Enchanted Gel-toMilk. This cleansing oil transforms into a milky emulsion when in contact with water. The translucent oil-in-glycerin texture provides a cocooning warming action. Mysterious Powder-to-Foam is a powder that metamorphoses into an unctuous foam revealing its exfoliating particles. The Charmed Fluffy Mask dries onto the skin and turns fluffy when rubbed. This pearlescent white gelcream texture brings a cool and comfortable sensation while brightening the skin. Magic Cream-to-Water is a sorbet texture that melts on the skin and disappears into a splash of water. This light water gel-cream breaks down, providing hydration and vivifying sensations.
Siste form ters Crea fier
NRC Group | The formulation workshop 5 out of 5 at In-Cosmetics showed how to create a variety of sophisticated formulations with only five ingredients: Cleansing Oil, Nourishing Lip Oil, Light Serum, Protecting All-round Cream and Sophisticated Face Cream. Seppic | The company’s five Beauty Care laboratories throughout the world have created eight new green, eco-friendly formulas. Featherweight – So Concentrated! So Nice! is a concentrated slimming cream that can easily be reconstituted by add-
www.cossma.com
© 2016 Cargill, Incorporated
purist who works from scratch, thinks outside the jar, and takes only the best values forward and appreciates the simple things in life: nature.
ing cent stitu very mul form care six tive ing app the with mul com Resp Poll Hyd
photo: Dmitriy Saveliev, Shutterstock.com
Transforming textures are extremely popular
scriptive in-house panel analyses the sensory properties of various formulations with emulsifiers from its own portfolio. In a large number of tests, the trained panellists evaluated the skin feel during application of the formulations and five minutes after absorption. Sensory Kaleidoscope demonstrates the wide range of sensory effects that can be achieved with the company’s emulsifiers and displays different options for expanding the sensory range by changing certain formulation components. It facilitates the development of new products with specific sensory properties by making the process more direct, interactive and easier.
Advert_Cossma_20 COS1606_48_Croda.indd 50
17.05.16 14:14
SPOTLIGHT: FORMULATION CONCEPTS
the muown ests, the the after ope senved and exangnts. new ropmore
ing an equal amount of water. Concentrated Foaming Power is a reconstituted, easily biodegradable, and very eco-friendly concentrated formulation. The minimalist Jugaad formulations are three de-tox body care products made from the same six ingredients (including two active ingredients) with varied, inspiring sensory textures and a cold application process: Creamgel or the patented Geltrap technology, with or without Easynov. Some formulations show the company’s commitment to community projects: Responsibly Sourced Palm – Anti Pollution Cream and Purifying and Hydrating Cream.
Texexl-torms concent coious that ous artidries hen geland ghtWas on lash eam tion
Sisterna | Their three new cocktail formulation ideas with sucrose esters include Tequila Sunrise Caring Cream Mask, an O/W main emulsifier concept; Gin Fizz Cleansing Gel,
Strand CosmeticS | The company offers the possibility of creating an entirely customised tinted cream – shade, effect, texture – through the addition of two activating serums into your everyday skincare base: first, add the complexion-activating serum to an everyday skin care base, then add the light-activating serum according to the desired effect. To accompany the two activating serums and for the ultimate in customisation, the company has selected
three bases with very different textures: Revival Cream is a rich, firm cream; L’Protectionist is a velvety, evanescent oil-in-water emulsion; and Rose Hydra Jelly is a neither sticky nor greasy aqueous jelly. Univar | The Savage Glamour collection features 15 skin care, sun care, hair care, body care, and makeup formulations. The Savage – Urban Safari Trend has formulas that are feminine and fierce, as well as fun. The Glamour – Embellished Sugar Trend comprises sensual formulations with fruity flavour. AM
Discover our new range of naturederived polymers.
photo: Dmitriy Saveliev, Shutterstock.com
The perfect alternative to synthetic polymers that doesn’t compromise on performance. Consumers are increasingly on the outlook for products that are more friendly for their skin as well as for the environment. With Cargill’s new portfolio of nature-derived polymers, personal care manufacturers now have the possibility to formulate more natural, without compromising on quality or performance. Contact us on:
[email protected] +32 15 400 411
© 2016 Cargill, Incorporated
a.com
a gel-to-milk cleanser; and Strawberry Daiquiri Lip Scrub, an anhydrous scrub formulation.
– ADVERTISEMENT –
orketics f soonly ourting ated
auty the een, here! is that add-
Skin feel is one of the main criteria when choosing a cream
Advert_Cossma_2016.indd 1 COS1606_48_Croda.indd 51
Cargill is committed to helping people and organizations thrive. www.cargill.com
www.cossma.com
l 51
3/05/2016 8:48:02 17.05.16 14:14
PACKAGING
Albéa’s
KHK ny’s and bees vitam has less scen hops the tified
Meeting the suppliers
www.l
Events | This preview selection for this year’s Cosmetic Business, with about 400 exhibitors from June 8–9 in Munich, shows some exciting novelties.
www.albea-group.com
Baralan’s new Flock Applicator 18 has been developed with a curved shape and rounded tip to allow for better product application. This applicator can be matched to the new
52 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_52_CosBusPreview.indd 52
wiper 18 which will guarantee the proper dosage of product. This applicator is suitable for an application of foundation and concealers. www.baralan.com
InduPlast’s new big ball Roll-on line, available in a smooth or matt finished version, is an eco-friendly packaging made from 100% PP/PE recyclable material. www.induplast.it
Gerresheimer’s new Marble Decoration is a marble-effect surface finish. It is produced by floating selected colours onto water and dipping the bottle in. Due to the individual patterns thus created, each product has its own unique appeal. The production process can be varied, by setting specific dipping speeds for instance, to create different visual effects. However, even though the finish on each bottle in a product group is slightly different, they all have a recognisable design. This surface finish is possible on transparent or colour-lacquered glass.
Prestige Pouch is Inotech Kunstofftechnik’s new version of their Prestige airless dispenser system. This system replaces the piston pump with bellows and is parti cularly suitable for low-viscosity media. Because of its barrier pro perties, the bellows contributes significantly to the protection of the product. Compared to the piston pump, the system offers reliable protection against leakage and provides new visual accents. It is available as a top-filled version.
www.gerresheimer.com
www.inotech.de
photos: Albéa, Baralan, Gerresheimer, Induplast, Messe Leizpig
A
lbéa’s Cat’s Eyes is a mascara range for a wide-eyed look, enabling agility in application thanks to its extra slim fibre brushes. The extra slim design for all types of lashes is user-friendly and is even suited for small, straight and stiff lashes. The new range features two new brushes: Panther Brush is an extra thin curved brush with short fibres, delivering a perfect combination of coating and curling performance. Lynx Brush is an extra slim brush with short fibres providing immediate access to the formula: in one stroke, the brush coats the lashes from root to tip.
www.cossma.com
23.05.16 09:44
PACKAGING
Albéa’s extra slim fibre brushes
Baralan’s applicator has a curved shape and rounded tip
KHK’s formula for Planty is the company’s standard for lip-care sticks. Oils and waxes of natural origin, such as beeswax and shea butter, together with vitamin E, protect the lips. The formula has now been developed into a colourless lip-care product without vanilla scent especially for men. An extract of hops softens raw male lips. If desired, the formula can also be NaTrue-cer tified and supplied as a vegan product. www.lipcare.de
Gerresheimer’s new marble-effect surface finish
Lageen’s new decoration technology for plastic tubes, MetallicPlast, involves realistic high resolution photo imaging. It provides many options of metallic effects printed to the shoulder and can include tactile effects and diverse textures. It can be directly printed on supple LDPE, MDPE or CoExTubes. The company’s new fully recyclable Sugarcane PE-based Tubes are produced from PE resin, a renewable
InduPlast’s roll-on line made from recyclable material
raw material with low carbon footprint emission. www.lageentubes.com
Meding’s Eyelid Cooler, made entirely of plant-based plastic and metal, gently cools the eyelids. It is charged by simply putting it into the fridge. www.meding.com
Pirlo’s Chalk Tube consists of a combination of chalk and PE, in which the
– ADVERTISEMENT –
Kunheir em. ston arti sity pro utes the
the tion new as a
photos: Albéa, Baralan, Gerresheimer, Induplast, Messe Leizpig
ine, finndly /PE
a.com
www.cossma.com
COS1606_52_CosBusPreview.indd 53
l 53
23.05.16 09:44
PACKAGING
Meding’s Eyelid Cooler is charged by simply putting it into the fridge
Pirlo’s tube is made of chalk and PE
use of mineral oil-based plastic can be reduced by more than half. Because of the high proportion of chalk, its warm texture is soft to the touch. The texture is comparable to that of paper; however, the stiffness remains similar to that of traditional tube materials. Because of the natural “filler” content, the tube can be made significantly thinner than traditional tubes.
Rusi’s Bubble Tip Eyeliner features an elegant shape with an unusual applicator. The easy-to-handle bubble tip allows a precise and fine lid line in just one application. The open pores of this applicator absorb the colour pigments well and give them off in the perfect amount.
www.pirlo.com
Sederma’s Citystem, a new active from HTN technology, is derived from Marrubium vulgare plant cells and shows visible anti-pollution effects in vitro and in vivo. This ingredient will be presented at the Spotlight area, a special display highlighting selected new developments from the exhibitors.
The inner bottle of Polpak’s Airless GR213A, a new functional and luxurious packaging, can be coloured with the help of a spraying technique. Its double thick wall and square shape leave plenty of possibilities for decoration. Another advantage of the product is a built-up nozzle without cap. www.opakowania.polpak.pl
Rebhan’s Boston Luxe is an elegant and classic line in bottles made from unbreakable glass polymer. The new bottle is available with an extensive selection of sealing caps, like other glass polymer bottles. Further extensions of the company’s standard bottle range include Edge and Quattro. www.rebhan-group.com
Rebhan’s elegant bottle line is made of unbreakable glass polymer
54 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_52_CosBusPreview.indd 54
www.rusi.de
www.sederma.com
SHB’s new TC Adapter for angle- necked HDPE and PET bottles makes it easier to manufacture and fill bottles with angled necks. As well as facilitating the straightforward manufacture of bottles using conventional blow-moulding machines, it also facilitates filling them in a vertical position on traditional filling equipment. The combination of adapter and child-proof cap sim-
Rusi’s Bubble Tip Eyeliner allows a precise lid line in just one application
SHB’s new TC Adapter for bottles with angled necks
Polpak’s airless packaging has a built-up nozzle without cap
ply pushes on vertically like a normal cap. www.shb-gmbh.com
The mirrored high gloss look of the body of the new Airless Tube de Luxe of Tu-Plast complements the luxurious Airless pump Evolux or Evoclassic from Aptar. With the Polyfoil barrier, products are also shielded from air, sun, moisture or chemicals. The Polyfoil tube is now available in high gloss. Neopac developed a special laminate for this, comprising several layers bonded together. www.tuplast.hu
A lower profile and a maximum weight reduction distinguish the closures of the Weener’s Next Ge neration line from the market average. A further extension is the Screw-on line which has the same advantages, but with a screw-on instead of snap-on application. Another new introduction is the Advanced line, which can be fitted with Pure Dispense – a membrane that offers the consumer a more controlled dispense without limiting product consumption. www.wppg.com □
photos: Inotech, Meding, Pirlo, Rebhan, Polpak, Rusi, SHB, Weener
Inotech’s new airless dispenser is particularly suitable for low-viscosity media
Weener’s new closures
www.cossma.com
23.05.16 09:44
PACKAGING NEWS
NEW BOARD GRADES
See you later, applicator
ZANDERS | With its Zanpack product
COSMOGEN | The independent applicator Attract One
range, the company is introducing high-quality board grades for sophisticated packagings. While Zanpack Silk features a oneside double-coated board with a functional reverse side treatment, Zanpack Silk² is characterised by a two-side double-coated board. Zanpack Touch is an uncoated haptic board foran authentic look and feel by means of a natural surface.
combines a magnet and a ball-applicator, maintained by the force of a controlled magnetic field. The removable and washable ball-applicator provides a skin contact surface that is three times larger than a conventional roll-on applicator. A second patent protects the new technologVisually and tactilely attractive contrasts
www.zanders.de
photos: Cosmogen, Hinderer + Mühlich, Zanders
NANOEMBOSSING HINDERER + MÜHLICH | The manufacturer of hot stamping dies (a member of the Kurz Group) has developed a new process for nanoembossing. Several types of structures can be incorporated into the same stamping die, thereby creating refined designs with novel combinations of effects.
For luxury packagings
The washable ball-applicator provides a three times larger contact surface
ical challenge featured in the magnet/valve/ball system. This system allows for the distribution of the formula and permits the valve to open by pressure on the tube, while still maintaining the attractive power of the magnet on the ball. Once the pressure on the tube is released, the valve resumes its position and ensures sealing, preserving the formula from risk of contamination, whether during application or during cleaning with water. www.cosmogen.fr
www.hinderer-muehlich.de Virospack_COSSMA_90x130_PRINT.pdf
1
5/4/16
10:15
bomoAnz_COSSMA_0616
aproposwerbung.de – ADVERTISEMENT –
Looking for great nail pens? U LT I M AT E R E F L E C T I O N
High visual impact. Innovative premium finish. In-house metallized bulbs.
h
www.virospack.com
[email protected]
COS1606_55_News_Packaging.indd 55
Munic ou at usiness y e e B S etic Cosm -up Paris e k Ma
i n n ova ti ve
C o s m eti c
Gm b H
www.bomo-trendline.de
17.05.16 14:17
PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
Giving birth to new brands Product development | What does it take to establish two new brands in the saturated beauty market? According to brand creator Siân Sutherland: answering a real need.
Siân Sutherland, Co-Founder of Mama Mio and Mio, Brand Creator, London, Great Britain
[email protected]
COSSMA: What triggered the idea of establishing a new brand in this saturated beauty market? Siân Sutherland, Co-Founder of Mama Mio and Mio Skin Care: When we created Mama Mio nine years ago, and then Mio two years ago, the intention was always to create something that answered a need, not a trend. Needs don’t date and a true entrepreneur is that person who creates the solution to an unmet need. Yes, the beauty market is highly saturated and I would never have launched a brand that simply focussed on ingredients (that is a trend-based approach) or was
simply another me-too skincare offer. No one had created a premium facial-quality range to help you safely and effectively throughout your pregnancy. The words “pregnancy skin care” had never been put together before we launched Mama Mio. Similarly, when we launched Mio in 2014, no skin care brand had focused on answering the needs of active women with a range that spoke their language. “Skin Fitness” was another first, a new niche that fitted into the lifestyles of so many women – regardless of age. Did you do market research before launching? With Mama Mio, the numbers of pregnant women are easy to find and our customer is easy to spot. With Mio, we just knew from our own selfish gut instincts that the
How come most beauty marketing makes me feel bad about myself?
need was there – because we ourselves are those women, seeking an active healthy life, caring about what we put in and on our bodies. And as we all know now, that tribe of women is growing daily because we want to live in a more healthy way.
thro tiqu such app thro wer peti evan lase
What were the main challenges at the beginning?
Challenge yourself all the time!
Distribution. We learnt early on with Mama Mio that as much as everyone has a mother, traditional beauty retail did not know where to put this new range. So we decided to pivot and focus on “being where the women are”. And with Mama Mio those women are shopping in maternity clothing stores and spas. So that was where we retailed our range – the first in the US and UK to be sold in such stores. With Mio we immediately chose a different d istribution platform: selling
How man
photo: Patrizia Tilly, Shutterstock.com
NN Interview partner:
56 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_56_Sutherland.indd 56
17.05.16 14:20
Inst to f and crea selv min nee form they ty a good elem brat ama
PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
want products that actually do something and if they are spending money on it, it has to work. Our No Nasties promise gives them the security that they don’t need to worry, and the actives are their reassurance that it is actually going to work. What led to the creation of your second brand? Again, selfish need and a realisation that no beauty range is speaking to the growing tribe of women who want to live active healthy lives. 16 million women in the US and UK (our core markets) practise yoga; 12 million worldwide shake their booty at Zumba every week. These women want high performance body care that works as hard as they do, speaking their language, with products that match their active needs. Could you please describe these products and explain what was different about them? through gyms and fitness boutiques as well as beauty doors such as SpaceNK. This unique approach gave us huge advantage through the recession too, as we were never 1 of 600 brands competing on a shelf, but rather a relevant incremental purchase for a laser-targeted audience.
ourking ring our ow, wing in a
nges
photo: Patrizia Tilly, Shutterstock.com
y on h as ionnow . So s on re”. omnity that ange o be we rent ling
How did the brand’s innovation management work? Instinctively. Part of my role was to forge the NPD strategy path and develop the products. We created products that we ourselves wanted. I am very determined that the world does not need more stuff. Women need formulas that do what they say they will, delivered with positivity and sass. We are in the feelgood business – so every single element of our brand must celebrate you and make you feel amazing. When we created Tum-
DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00117 Your access codes for June: User name: cossma6 Password: hair
my Rub for Mama Mio and later on Liquid Yoga and Workout Wonder for Mio, everyone said, “Why has no one created these products before?” We did not look backwards or sideways at competition. We just thought about our Mio women and what they need. What was your approach to natural cosmetics? Personally, I am concerned that words like “natural” are used as marketing terms and have little value. Of course you want your product to be clean, free from nasties that you don’t want on your skin. But ultimately women
The muscle-motivating gel Workout Wonder packed with magnesium, arnica and essential oils takes the aches out of hard-working muscles. Liquid Yoga is our restorative bath soak, rich in Epsom salts. The Activist is a firming active body oil that is exactly the quality of ingredients that you will find in your face oil – antioxidants, omegas – why should we use anything less on our amazing bodies? What were new challenges you encountered when establishing your second brand? Interestingly, it was much easier establishing our second brand. When we launched Mio, we approached it in a very different way. We were launching a Fitness and not a Beauty brand. This switch in thinking helped us create a unique launch campaign – The Mio Workout Wonders. This was a 12-month
www.cossma.com
COS1606_56_Sutherland.indd 57
l 57
17.05.16 14:20
PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
series of Mio Workout Wonders across New York, with our media partner Well + Good. Each Workout Wonder was hosted by myself and the latest greatest fitness guru who would take everyone through a wonderful workout – from the best spin class to the best zen bootcamp. Everyone attending was passionate about fitness: b loggers, press, KOLs (Key Opinion Leaders) – our perfect buzz-building audience. We involved like-minded brands – juices, healthy snacks. This generated substantial social media and ensured that Mio was instantly known as “the Fit Skin brand”. Again, no one had ever put those two words together – Skin and Fitness. What do you think is most important: a unique product idea, a unique packaging or a unique combination of ingredients? You need to answer a real need. The world does not need more stuff; women need products that answer their needs, understand their lives. It amazes me that beauty is still one of the last mar-
Mio, the skin fitness range, fits into the lifestyle of many women
kets to actually lifestyle itself. Consumer electronics, cars, all are now lifestyled. In beauty, we still use imagery and language from the 1950s! We need to move on and recognise what women really want today – not just in product formulations but also in language. Words are extremely powerful, and as beauty brands we need to choose them carefully. My rant against most beauty marketing is that it makes me feel bad about myself when we are supposed to be in the feel-good business. What made you sell your brands? It was a very hard decision as our brands are like our kids – we are super proud of them. And we feel extremely loyal to the wonderful women who have helped us grow – our team and our customers. But after nine years, it was time to send our children off to big school, so they can achieve greatness with some serious support behind them. Mio as an umbrella brand has enormous future potential – Mini Mio for babies, Mio
““Our own selfish gut instincts told us that the need was there”.” Siân Sutherland, Founder of Mama Mio and Mio Skin Care
Man, etc. The new owners, The Hut Group, are very experienced in online growth and as we all know, this is the future. I just hope they realise the jewels they have in their hands now and stay true to the brands’ ethos. What is your advice to people who want to establish a new brand? • Challenge yourself all the time: • Why does this exist? • What is it doing that nothing else is doing? • How will anyone know about it? • Who is going to sell it for me? • Every brand needs a simple, ownable line – your elevator pitch. Mio’s is “fit skin for life”. Positive, aspirational, strong words that tell you everything about the brand. • Have a plan, but don’t worry if you guess at the numbers – it is your roadmap, not a straitjacket. Every-one guesses the numbers in the be-ginning. But if you don’t have goals, you don’t know when you have scored. • Celebrate every little high along the journey. It’s a tough long road but the beauty business is one of the nicest I have ever worked in. I love this quote: “A strong w oman knows she has strength enough for the journey, but a woman of strength knows it is in the journey that she will become strong”. □ Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel
58 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_56_Sutherland.indd 58
photos: Mama Mio
The first premium facial-quality body care range was born in 2006
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 14:20
PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
people GUERLAIN
Guerlain’s head perfumer Thierry Wasser, 54, has received the German Fragrance Award Duftstar. Born in the French-speaking part Thierry Wasser of Switzerland, he collected and dried herbs when he was a child. In 1981, he joined Givaudan’s school of fragrance and worked for the company in Paris as Fine Fragrance Perfumer. He also worked for Firmenich in New York. In 2008, he succeeded JeanPaul Guerlain. photo: Pol Baril for Guerlain
www.guerlain.com
LONZA
Dr Christoph Kolano has joined the company in the role of Associate Director Global Portfolio Development for its Personal Care business. Based in
Basel (CH), Dr Kolano is responsible for designing and initiating the development of new products for the global personal care portfolio. He has more than 12 years of expertise in value creation within the chemical industry, with a strong focus on oleochemicals, petrochemicals, surfactants and intermediates. Prior to joining the comDr Christoph pany, Dr Kolano held Kolano technical marketing, sales and Research & Development positions at Kolb. A member of the Association of German Chemists and the Association of Swiss Chemists, he has authored more than 25 papers in peer-reviewed journals and has been granted patents in oleochemicals and surfactants.
SEBAPHARMA
Dr Heinz Maurer, the founder and former head of SEBAPHARMA, has died at the age of 94. In 2010, he passed on the chairmanship of the medicinal Dr Heinz Maurer cleansing and skin care brand Sebamed to his long-standing managing directors – his son and Dr Rüdiger Mittendorff. In 1967, he founded his Sebamed brand with the goal of maintaining the skin’s natural pH of 5.5; in 1983, he founded the distribution company Sebapharma, which comprises HERZPUNKT PHARMA, Maurer Pharma and Sebamat Chemie. The global company, with 200 employees, markets 100 products in more than 80 countries. ww.sebamed.de
www.lonza.com
– ADVERTISEMENT –
zellaerosol
since 50 Years specialised in the Development – Manufacture – Filling – Packing of
Aerosols and Liquid Products
Certified to ISO 9001 and ISO 13485 Licenced for pharmaceutical manufacturing operations in accordance with §13 of the german drug act for human and veterinary medication Production and filling of pharmaceutical, medical, cosmetic, household and technical products in accordance with prevailing ATEX directive Planning, execution and documentation of clientexclusive development projects Consultancy and collaboration with clients in compiling product data as required for the Cosmetics Directive, Technical Files, and for pharmaceutical approvals Full service management and completion of client contracts from A to Z. . . . and lots more!
zellaerosol
Zellaerosol GmbH Wiesenstraße 13 D-79669 Zell im Wiesental Tel.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 0 Fax.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 14
CSDE1512_Zellaerosol.indd 1
COS1606_59_People.indd 59
nd er g a partn n o e tr a s eliabl r
[email protected] www.zellaerosol.de
Das Portfolio der Firma LOHN-PACK erstreckt sich von Zeitschriften- über Onpack- und Konturensachets bis hin zu hochwertig verpackten Tüchlein. Als Spezialist für Probe- und Verkaufsverpackungen, vorwiegend für die kosmetische Industrie, fertigen und konfektionieren wir neben Einzel- und Doppelsachets auch 3er-, 4er-, und 5er-Sets. Wir sind nach DIN ISO-9001:2000 zertifiziert. www.lohn-pack.com
The LOHN-PACK company portfolio ranges from magazine-sachets, onpack– and contour-sachets to high-quality packaged tissues. As specialists for promotion and sales packaging - primarily for the cosmetics industry - we manufacture and package single and double sachets as well as sets of 3, 4, and 5 sachets. We are certified according to DIN ISO-9001:2000. www.lohn-pack.com LOHN-PACK K.A. Wolf GmbH & Co. KG, Dorfwiesenstraße 2-4, 61197 Florstadt/Nieder-Mockstadt, Germany; FON: +49 (0) 6041 - 8228-0 FAX: +49 (0) 6041 - 4776 E-MAIL:
[email protected]
17.11.15 15:10 COS1606_AZPR_Lohnpack_90x130.indd 1
11.05.16 16:49
18.05.16 10:37
Meet your business Events | When the 31st BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH takes place from October 22–23, don’t miss the opportunity to profit from this year’s international pavilion.
J
ust recall the impressive figures of last year’s 30th anniversary of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, Europe’s No. 1 autumn cosmetics
trade fair – over 40,000 national and international visitors took advantage of the extensive offer in innovations presented by more than
1,000 exhibiting companies and brands. This year’s International Pavilion is specially tailored for international exhibitors to give them a hand in stepping into the German and international beauty market. If you book your place for participation now, you can take advantage of a highly effective promotional package for marketing your products in Germany: • The exhibition organisers with more than 30 years of experience stand for a high quality trade show • The worldwide BEAUTY FORUM network with a presence in 16 countries and 20 trade fairs stands for genuine internationalism • Making use of this international platform to establish new and maintain existing business contacts guarantees a fully business-focused event • The International Pavilion offers an ideal platform for making new business contacts in the versatile German and international cosmetics industry. Our offer includes an all-inclusive stand package, free advertising in trade fair media online and print, a counter for product presentation and special guidance by our team. □ For more information about this offer, the additional marketing package and about discount options when participating at more than one of our shows, please contact
[email protected] or check out www.beauty-fairs.de/Muenchen-ip
photo: Pauline Fabry
SERVICES
– ADVERTISEMENT –
60 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_60_BFM.indd 60
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 14:25
SERVICES
FAIRS, CONFERENCES AND SEMINARS
2016
WHEN? WHAT?
WHERE? WHO?
07.06.2016
Fragrance Foundation Awards
New York USA
Fragrance Foundation www.fragrance.org
07.06.2016
Seminar: 3D Skin print
Lyon France
Centre Européen de Dermocosmétologie www.ced-lyon.com
07.–08.06.2016
Anti-ageing Skincare Conference
London Great Britain
Summit Events www.summit-events.com
08.–09.06.2016
Cosmetic Business
Munich Germany
Leipziger Messe GmbH www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
09.–10.06.2016
InnoCos
Vienna Austria
KGS B.V. www.innocosevents.com
09.–10.06.2016
MakeUp in Paris
Paris France
Beauteam www.makeup-in-paris.com
09.–10.06.2016
SSCS The Science Behind Asian Cosmetics
Singapore Republic of Singapore
Singapore Polytechnic www.scss.org.sg
13.–15.06.2016
Alternative Fragrance & Beauty
Paris France
Informa Exhibitions www.alternativebeautyparis.com
13.–15.06.2016
World Perfumery Congress
Miami Beach USA
Allured Business Media www.wpc.perfumerflavorist.com
14.06.2016
Grundlagenseminar: Kosmetik-GMP Betriebshygiene
Frankfurt a.M. Germany
Cosmetic Campus www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
14.–16.06.2016
HBA Global
New York USA
UBM hbaglobal.packagingdigest.com
15.06.2016
ICADA Sommer-Fachtagung
Frankfurt a.M. Germany
Icada www.icada.eu
15.06.2016
Intensivseminar: Kosmetik-GMP Betriebshygiene
Frankfurt a.M. Germany
Cosmetic Campus www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
15.06.2016
Seminar: Konservierung von Kosmetika
Frankfurt a.M. Germany
Cosmetic Campus www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
15.–16.06.2016
Alternative Fragrance & Beauty
Paris France
Informa www.alternativebeautyparis.com
15.–16.06.2016
Pack & Gift
Paris France
Idice www.packandgift.com
16.06.2016
Seminar: Kosmetik Claims im Wandel
Frankfurt a.M. Germany
Cosmetic Campus www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
21.–22.06.2016
“Mischen impossible” - Zwischen Anspruch und Wirklichkeit
Heidelberg Germany
Sepawa Specialist Group Cosmetic Applications and Technologies (CAT) www.sepawa.com
23.–24.06.2016
Packaging Valley Days
Schwaebisch Hall, Germany
Packaging Valley Germany e.V. www.packaging-valley.com
25.–27.06.2016
International Esthetics Cosmetics & Spa Conference
Las Vegas USA
Questex www.iecsc.com
28.06.2016
Qualifizierungsseminar: Kosmetik-GMP Betriebshygiene
Frankfurt a.M. Germany
Cosmetic Campus www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
29.06.–01.07.2016
Cosm’ing
Saint-Malo France
CBB Capbiotek www.cbb-capbiotek.com
06.–07.07.2016
In-Cosmetics Korea
Seoul Korea
Reed Exhibition www.in-cosmeticskorea.com
08.–09.07.2016
International Conference on Applied Hair Science
Red Bank, NJ USA
Cvent www.cvent.com
www.cossma.com
COS1606_61_Kalender.indd 61
l 61
12.05.16 17:28
13.–14
24.–26
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
suppliers’ Guide On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the supplie rs’ Guid cosmetic industry. The listing is e in alphabetical order based on the section headings. You can also find a full overview, with a search function, “LIMITLESS at www.cossma.com/guide POTENTIAL”
H. Erha 28701 Br Tel. (042 www.wa
E51280
1–2/2016
Ae
COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING
WWW.COSSMA.COM
On the foll find a sel owing pages you ection of will cosmetic suppliers ind the FUTURE: SUN CARE in alphab ustry. The list to GO ing etic the section al order based isThe US’s gap in on headings. You can UVA protection also find with a sea a full ove rview, at www.c rch function, ossma.c SPOTLIGHT: “LIMITLES om/gu Should ide CUSTOMISATION POTENTIALS you be listed r company FOR INNO here? The VAT trend put ION” Send an into perspective e-mail to dorothe a.mich aelis@ health-a nd-beau ty.com We will be glad to details of terms send you an prices .
Adeps
E51280
S | SPRAY
TECHNOLO
GY | MARKETIN
G
WWW.COS
SUN CARE
Lanae
H. Erha rd Wag 28701 Bremen, ner GmbH Tel. (042 Postfach 1) www.wag 69360-0, Fax 770120 (0421) nerlanolin 6936015 .com
1–2/2016
COSMETIC
GO FUTURE:
The US’s gap UVA protectionin
SMA.COM
Applica
Aeroso
Kevin Gallag
l Mixing
her, Croda
s glass aerosoballs for l spray s Phone(++49) E-Mai 9277-9
MILDAU CVUA Karlsruhe, comments on the current legal status concerning sun care
SIGM
Kevin Gallagher, Croda
□ 4 colo ur ed in issu
e)
e:
Alumin
•
ium Sea
DOKUM
… prot ❿
Consult
Sworn
es
ecti ng you r prod ucts
ALU SEAL S REEL STOC K IN VARIO SPEC IFICA US TION S ❿ COND UCTIO N SEAL ING MACH ❿ INDU INES CTION SEAL ING MACH ❿ INDU INES CTION SEAL INGMILDAU, DR. GERD LINER S ❿
mm white
drugs
Cosmetics
Mix
ants
ding
COS1601_01_Cover.indd 1
Enge
lstra www.ße 37, 48 derm 143 atest. Mün de ster
Esse
SiLig
1
02.11.15
Filli
ng
Ma sch ine und Sprüh n für Aeros system ole e
19:33
Line
s
– Fül – Prü l- und Ver – Sor f- und schlies – Me tier-, ZufSicherhei smaschin tseinri ss- und ühren Testge und Aufsechtung Ko räte tzmascen Techn smetik - Ph ik hinen Farbe - Nahru armaze n/Lack ngsm utik Pam e - Po ittelind - Chem aso lyuret ustrie ie T +4 l Willi Mä 1(0 hansc info@p )55 417 der AG häum , CH 404 am -88 e
COS1602_S
de.indd
63
asol.co
We will be glad to send you details of terms an prices.
“You r coul advert d be isem ri ent Book ght he Call re” no +49 7243 w: 7278 -144
lit
lin (A deps
Effe
64
l COSSMA
0, F 08 Pfä m, ww +41(0 w.pam )55 417 ffikon asol.co 4044 m
1-2 I
2016
se no
cts
D
SEUF TRAN ER VERP SP T AC AR
SI
ENTE KUNG P WACK EN GM INSITH ED BH PIR ATIO N.
g
Phon E-
ww
w.s eu
Straß Tel. feld 6, Fax +49 (0)8 8577 7 info +49 (0)8 133 – Fahre @rosa 13 nzh 91 -he 3 – 91 85 90 ausen inz.de 85 , ww 99 w.rosa -he inz.de
fert.
Safe
ty As
sess
com
men
ts
Lana
Er
2870 hard Tel. 1 Brem Wagne (0421 en r Gm ww , w.wa ) 6936 Postfac bH h 77 gnerl 0-0, anoli Fax (04 0120 n.com 21 ) 69 36
Lip
015
Balm
Full
te
Serv
ww
ice
w.c oss
: Iss www.coss ue 3/ ma.cPu omblish 20 63
ma
l
ing 16 4.3.20 date: Adve 16 rtisin 15.2. g dead 2016 line: hesit Pleas have ate to e do no any conta t fur the ct us Doro if r yo qu Call u th 21.01 estio .16 11:38 +49 ea M ns: ich (0)7 243 aelis 7278 -144
S160
2_Su
pplier
Sprüh flasch fe, Do Plastik en, sie fla Parfü rspen u. Au schen mflas der, Forde ch Kle ohne Treibgchen, rn Sie ins as) unser tmen e Un gen! D. 614 terlag 62 Tel. en an 061 Kö Intern 74/701nigste in E-M et: ww 7 . Fax im Tau ail: 061
[email protected] 74/131nus Siebd ch 2 ge rsc on.de ruck hon.d ab e 30
ERSC
64
.com
Ster
Verp acku für Ko sm ng Se Dosen lbsta etik Gla bfül – u. Fla s ler Aro (Sprüh schen köp ma in
R.G
e.in
dd
HEA
e)
CO
sGuid
g
®
Pho SI E - Mne (++ G M U a i l 49) 927N D LIN : s i l i @7 99410 DN ER s · ww i g m u Fax (++ G m w. sil n d 49) b H i.e u - l i n d 9277 n e 99499 r. c om
Plea
ogen
Pack agin
Lano
H.
@vivacel
l.de
uppliersGui
15:56
l Oils
Biot echn olog y Gm bH
SimDerma rapid and – screenin low-cos t g cosmeticof 30 dermatoparam 21.01.16 eters12:54 cosmetics
-2.indd
EP A
ntia
g
+49 www.fd 89 44109090 cconsulting.de
eige 43x40
gl g ae
om
sym Len ex Gm bH gstr. & 10, Fon 275 Co. KG : 72 Bre Fax +49 (0) : +4 merha 471 9 ww ven w.sym(0) 471 98 40 -10 ex.de 98 40 -14 0
ter
VivaCellAnz
A ST
Contrac t Manuf Baycu t Manuf + Packag acturinsan acturin g _Supplie DPha er rma g ing rs_Gu mat c. + Cos metics ol Clide in_4ic3x80mogical m.ind al Te stsd 1 + 24 .09 .15
+H
izin
Contrac
Glit
• für Glasu. Kuns tstoff-Behä • in Klein st- u. Mass lter • in jeder enauflage Größe zu • Qualität jedem Zwec seit k DERSCH 1957 Stanzerei LAG Gmb und Folie H & Co. 57319 nverarbe KG Tel.: 0 Bad Berleburg itung 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
ing
WA Be au GE GANZ ty NE R & EINFAC H : LEISTU M adeNG |seitCO 1964
Wagener & ww Poss Postfach Co GmbH w.b 1645 · 4951 aycu ible Telefon 6 Lenge san.c . 0 54 om E-Mail: konta 81 / 8 06 - 0 rich kt@wagene Internet: r-co.de www.wage ner-co.de
Alu-Sie Alu-Fol gelverschlüsse ien
ature
ENTIEREN
ls
Consulting ment, CPNP etc. Borderline Regulatory Products, affairs, Qm Claims
FDC Cons ultin
Food
ND S
S
nts
Labe
Co sm eti tat to os Cs , me diC & al de viC es safety assess
BALLERSTAE CVUA Karlsruhe, DT & CO. OHG DE-76401 Rastatt L-VER the P.O. Box 1124comments EGEon S -SI Phone +49 72 22/95 legal status 15-0 www.ballerstcurrent H aedt.de IT R E N D B E I I ÄT V U SER
E
edie
GMP-gerech mentation. te Kontrolle und DokuMikrobiologModernes Labor mit ie.
Expe
Developin rts Samples g new composi Toxicolo /small batches tions Product gical safety repo Marketa Documentatio rts ns bility/Exp Quality assessm ort Reports SVB Dr. ents Tel: +089Lautenbacher GmbH info@svb-82020020 lautenbac her.de
l Closur
concerning sun care
e (inclu
FEKTIONIE
REN von pharm azeutischen chemischen , kosme GenußmittelProdukten, Nahru tischen, ngs- und n.
e
□
by phon
.com
OEPER Hans-D uncker -Straße Tel. 0 40 E-Mail / 7 34 10 30 . 13 . 21035 Hambu : office@ Fax roeper.de 0 40 / 73 41 rg . http:// 03 35 www.roeper. de
a
Hans-D ER uncker -Straße Tel. 0 40 E-Mail / 7 34 10 30 . 13 . 21035 Hambu : office@ Fax roeper.de 0 40 / 73 41 rg . http:// 03 35 www.roeper. de
ad:
□ blac k and
SU
von Salben , GelenPP , Creme LIER Liquida, s, Zahnp Pulve oder Aluze r; Suppositorie S’ Gasta, n in PVCllen. UID
in Alu-, Kunst stoff-, Lamin Tiegel, Flasch Co sm en, Beute et attuben, ic In l, Dosen . gr KON
ossma
IDE
G
HERSTELLEN
ABFÜLLEN
Carmin
B AC O
publish
od of: □ 1 year
(Euro scal
□ Yes, test: 3 mon I th mobile agree that you phone), by e-ma may keep me advis il, or in ed of indus writing! try news
Date, Sign
following
D-79669 13 Telefon Zell/Wiesen tal Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-0 E-Mail: 0 76 25 / 92 53-1 Internet: info@zellaeroso 4 www.zella l.de erosol.de
www.c
ERS’ GU
FACH:
LEISTUN
füllu
ng Zellaeroso Wiesenstr l GmbH aße
h sticks • akne produc ts • after bite sticks • marke rs
C.E. R
Aloe Ver
i. mm:
To be first For a peri
for the
GANZ EIN
ER
C.E. ROEP
FÜ AL QU
Send an e-mail to dorothea.michaelis@ health-and-beauty.com
Height
me an orde r confirma ry/ies: tion
t Filling
Lohnab
Bauerstraße 22 • D-807 Tel. +49 96 Münch (0)89 273 E-Mail: en 72 608-0 zentra www.zelinkag le@zelinkagm bh.com mbh.com
®
CE
Street, P.O. Box: Post Cod e, City: Country : Phone: Fax:
Catego
LINDN
LÜSSE CH
Should your company be listed here?
Contrac
AT OR S
l: sili@si 9410·Fax(++49) G m b H gmund-lindn9277-994 www.sili.eu er.com 99
•
ADVERT ISING FA FAX +4 9 (0) 72 X-SERVICE: 43 7278 Please send -227
UND
ts • Foam applicato rs • Mini-roll-o ns for • blemis
Balls
SiLibead
DR. GERD
Start win ning tom with you r entry orrow’s custome in width of the suppliers’ r today column: guide price per 43 mm mm heig for a peri ht: EUR od of: 3,10 advertisi 1 year ng deadlin e: 10 th □ Yes day of each , I wish to month befo publicat place a guide at ion re firm a You will price of EUR 3,10order for an entr receive y in the per colu the text suppliers mn mm for my ad ’ for each Compan with entry. separate y: fax. Contact :
SUPPLI
tors
APPL IC
Localized applica tion of pharmaceuti cal produc cosmetic and
SPOTLIG CUSTOMHT: ISATION
The trend put into perspective
HON
GM
BH
0 Stü
ck
Wir
C.E. R
iliza
tion
Prodmachen ukte Ihre
ster il!
BGS
Hans-Dunck Tel. 0 40 / 7 E-Mail: offic
ww – Ihr Spe w.bgs. zial eu ist für Str
ahlens
terilis
atio
W
IEH L | B GS BR UC Bet info HS a-G @b AL amm gs. | S a-S eu AA |+ erv L ( 49 ice DO (0) Gm NA 22 bH U) 61 78 99 & Co . KG -0
n.
Woo
H. l wax Er 2870 hard Tel. 1 Brem Wagne (0421 en r Gm ww , w.wa ) 6936 Postfac bH h 77 gnerl 0-0, anoli Fax (04 0120 n.com 21 ) 69 36
015
21.01
.16
11:38
Alum
•
•
… pr
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE: FAX +49 (0) 7243 7278-227 Start winning tomorrow’s customer today with your entry in the suppliers’ guide width of column: 43 mm price per mm height: EUR 3,10 for a period of: 1 year advertising deadline: 10th day of each month before publication □ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’ guide at a price of EUR 3,10 per column mm for each entry. You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
ALU REE SPE ❿ CON ❿ IND ❿ IND ❿ ❿
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad: Category/ies:
Height i. mm:
□ 4 colour (Euro scale)
mm □ black and white
To be first published in issue:
BALLERS DE-7640 P.O. Box Phone + www.ba
Company: Contact: Street, P.O. Box: Post Code, City:
For a period of: □ 1 year
Alu-Si Alu-F
□ test: 3 month
□ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone (including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Country: Phone: Fax:
Date, Signature
62 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_SuppliersGuide.indd 62
12.05.16 15:09
• für Gla • in Klei • in jeder • Qualitä DERSC Stanzer 57319 B Tel.: 0 2
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Applicators
Contract Filling
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH 28701 Bremen, Postfach 770120 Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 www.wagnerlanolin.com
APPLICATORS Localized application of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products
Zellaerosol GmbH Wiesenstraße 13 D-79669 Zell/Wiesental Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0 Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14 E-Mail:
[email protected] Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
• Foam applicators • Mini-roll-ons for
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Lohnabfüllung
• blemish sticks • akne products • after bite sticks • markers
www.cossma.com Bauerstraße 22 • D-80796 München Tel. +49 (0)89 273 72 608-0 E-Mail:
[email protected] www.zelinkagmbh.com
SiLibeads
®
glass balls for aerosol sprays SEUF TRAN ER VERP SP T AC AR
Lohn-Pack K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG
Dorfwiesenstraße 2-4, 61197 Florstadt, Germany Phone. +49 (0)60 41 / 82 28 - 0 Fax +49 (0)60 41 / 47 76 Mail:
[email protected]
Please note: Issue 7-8/2016
Carmine
Phone(++49)9277-99410·Fax(++49)9277-99499 E-Mail:
[email protected] www.sili.eu
Advertising deadline: 8.7.2016
ww
w.s eu
We are specialized in Producing, Filling and Sealing of ✓ Standard Sachets ✓ Magazine Sachets ✓ Onpack Sachets ✓ Contour Sachets ✓ Tissues in Sachets
Publishing date: 5.8.2016
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
ENTE KUNG P WACK EN GM INSITH ED BH PIR ATIO N.
Contract Manufacturing 968-16_Lohnpack_1sp_engl.qxp_16_79x121mm_
fert.
sess
C.E. ROEPER
ts
Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions:
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35 E-Mail:
[email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Aloe Vera
Dorothea Michaelis Call +49 (0)7243 7278-144
Consultants
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35 E-Mail:
[email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Sworn Experts Aluminium Seal Closures
• … protecting your products
Developing new compositions Samples/small batches Toxicological safety reports Product Documentations Marketability/Export Reports Quality assessments SVB Dr. Lautenbacher GmbH Tel: +089 82020020
[email protected]
Contract Manufacturing
LEISTUNG HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
CosmetiCs, tattoos & mediCal deviCes
❿
KONFEKTIONIEREN von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und Genußmitteln.
safety assessment, CPNP etc. Consulting Regulatory affairs, Qm Borderline Products, Claims
DOKUMENTIEREN
FDC Consulting
GEL-VERSC SIE
Food
drugs
GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit Mikrobiologie.
Cosmetics
+49 89 44109090 www.fdcconsulting.de
Ü AL H R E N D B E V ITÄ R T UND SE
F QU
BALLERSTAEDT & CO. OHG DE-76401 Rastatt P.O. Box 1124 Phone +49 72 22/95 15-0 www.ballerstaedt.de
GANZ EINFACH:
ABFÜLLEN
ALU SEALS REEL STOCK IN VARIOUS SPECIFICATIONS ❿ CONDUCTION SEALING MACHINES ❿ INDUCTION SEALING MACHINES ❿ INDUCTION SEALING LINERS ❿
ÜSSE HL
mm white
ding
com
men
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse Alu-Folien
I IC E
ty As
BACO -
Safe
Biotechnology GmbH
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter • in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage • in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck • Qualität seit 1957 DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung 57319 Bad Berleburg Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
SimDerma – rapid and low-cost screening of 30 dermatocosmetic parameters
[email protected]
VivaCellAnzeige 43x40-2.indd 1
WAGENER & CO GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG |seit 1964
Wagener & Co GmbH Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0 E-Mail:
[email protected] Internet: www.wagener-co.de
02.11.15 19:33
www.cossma.com
COS1606_SuppliersGuide.indd 63
l 63
12.05.16 15:09
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Contract Manufacturing Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Essential Oils
Glitter Effects
Lip Balm Full Service
SiLiglit
®
A
Akzo
www perso
Albé
www
Filling Lines
bom Cosm
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499 E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m www.sili.eu
www
Labels
Neue Anzeige Packaging für R.Gerschon GmbH für das Jahr 2016, beginnend in der Aprilausgabe 2016
Carg
www
Clar Inte
www
Cove SEUFERT TRANSPARENTE Anzeigengröße : 1-spaltigGMBH 70 mm VERPACKUNGEN
Farbe : Cosmetic Ingredients
Maschinen für Aerosole und Sprühsysteme
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
hoch zweifarbig in s/w sowie PantoneDSM Rub PACKED
WITH INSPIRATION.
Euro
www.seufert.com
Evon Nutr
R – – – –
Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen Mess- und Testgeräte
Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume
Beauty Made Possible.
Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044
[email protected], www.pamasol.com
www.baycusan.com
Fabe Cosm
Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u. Glas ( Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender, Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen, Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas ) .
Mixing + Homogenizing
R.GERSCHON GMBH D - 61462 Königstein im Taunus, Tel. 06174/7017- Fax 06174/13 12 E-mail :
[email protected] - NEU Online Shop http://shop.gerschon.de
15:56
Foll
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an.
Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
“Your advertisement 24.09.15 could be right here” Book now: Call +49 7243 7278-144
www
www
Auch Kleinstmengen !
Internet : www. gerschon.de
Baycusan_Suppliers_Guide_43x80mm.indd 1
www perso prod
www
G
Verpackung für Kosmetik Selbstabfüller H. Erhard Wagner GmbH 28701 Bremen, Postfach 770120 Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 www.wagnerlanolin.com
www
A STEP AHEAD symex GmbH & Co. KG Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven Fon: +49 (0)471 9840-10 Fax: +49 (0)471 9840-140 www.symex.de
GRAF Poly
www
Heal Germ
www
Wool wax H. Erhard Wagner GmbH 28701 Bremen, Postfach 770120 Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 www.wagnerlanolin.com
Idice
www
64 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_65_Ins COS1606_SuppliersGuide.indd 64
12.05.16 15:09
726-11_EA_COS_Newsletter_1-3h_GB.qxp 24.03.16 11:14 Seite 1
ice
Advertisers‘ Index Akzo Nobel www.akzonobel.com/ personalcare
Iggesund Paperboard AB p.19
Albéa www.albea-group.comp.31
bomo trendline Innovative Cosmetics GmbH www.bomo-trendline.dep.55
ge
mbH
6, usgabe 2016
n.de
de
tück
n.de
936015
Institute of Personal Care Science p.45
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
Covestro AG
www.kosmetik-konzept.dep.53,60
Lehmann & Voss & Co. KG www.lehvoss-cosmetics.comp.27
Europe Ltd. www.dsm.com/markets/ personal-care/en_US/products/ products-ranges/tilamar.htmlp.2
Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH
Lohn-Pack K.A. Wolf GmbH & Co. KG www.lohn-pack.comp.59
LUM GmbH www.lum-gmbh.comp.22
✓Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree z that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact me by mobile phone, e-mail, in writing, by telephone/fax with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further information, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty.
Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card:
MERCK KG AA
@
www.cossma.com/merck
www.fc-cosmetics.comp.11
E-mail
www.merck4cosmetics.comp.9 First name, family name
Sabinsa Europe GmbH
Follmann GmbH & Co. KG www.follmann.com
p.15
n an.
unus, 3 12
p.17
www.clariant.com/mildnessp.68
Faber-Castell Cosmetics GmbH
MBH
www.impag.de
www.lipcare.de/private-labelp.60
www.elements-of-care.comp.7
!
IMPAG Import GmbH
KHK GmbH
Clariant International Ltd.
hoch in s/w sowie PantoneDSM Rubin Red C Products Nutritional
k u. nder, chen, as )
LooseInsert
0 mm BH
com
p.51
www.baycusan.comp.37
ON.
www.iggesund.com/webshop
www.personalcarescience.com.au
Cargill www.cargill.com
NEWSLETTER ORDER
GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbH www.grafe.com
p.33
Company
Virospack Export S.L.
Street address
www.virospack.comp.55 Postcode, city, country
Zellaerosol GmbH
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
www.zellaerosol.de
www.beauty-fairs.de/munichp.49
Idice France www.luxepack.com
www.sabinsaeurope.comp.39
p.41
p.59
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co. KG www.zschimmer-schwarz.comp.5
Date and signature
Order today: Fax: +49 (0)7243 7278-252 Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany Phone: +49 (0)7243 7278-162 Fax: +49 (0)7243 7278-252 E-mail:
[email protected]
COS1606_65_Inserenten.indd 65
12.05.16 14:41
COS1606_SuppliersGuide.indd 65
12.05.16 15:09
SERVICES
masthead Page
preview
VOLUME 17
JULY/AUGUST 2016
ISSN 1439-7676
❱ THE TEAM
Managing Director Jürgen Volpp +49 7243 7278-311 juergen.volpp@ health-and-beauty.com
❱ SPOTLIGHT: ANTI-POLLUTION
Senior Editor Angelika Meiss +49 7243 7278-169 angelika.meiss@ health-and-beauty.com
Sales Manager Dorothea Michaelis +49 7243 7278-144 dorothea.michaelis@ health-and-beauty.com
Advertising Support Beate Bantzhaff +49 7243 7278-232 beate.bantzhaff@ health-and-beauty.com
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Assistant: Phone: +49 7243 7278-311 Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 10 04 11, 76258 Ettlingen, Germany Phone: +49 7243 7278-0, Fax: +49 7243 7278-227
Ingredients which reduce pollution effects – just a mayfly?
❱ GO FUTURE: NATURAL COSMETICS
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: +49 7243 7278-169, E-mail:
[email protected]
Advertising Sales Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: +49 7243 7278-144, E-mail:
[email protected] Advertising Services: Beate Bantzhaff Phone: +49 7243 7278-232, Fax: +49 7243 7278-227 The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan. 2016.
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Service
[email protected] Phone: +49 7243 7278-162, Fax: +49 7243 7278-852 Published: 10 issues per year COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and “Aerosol and Spray Report“
Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198. Rates Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable. Design/ ms-simply.media Production Monika Stern, www.ms-simply.media Printing Kraft Druck GmbH, Industriestr. 5–9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
International Representatives
Market with unabated growth?
Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Ágnes Balla, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház), 1016 Budapest, Hungary Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248, E-mail:
[email protected] Italy Zero Venti, Loris Sparti, Via Valprato, 68, 10155 Torino, Italy Phone: +39 0115637338, E-mail:
[email protected] Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o., Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3, 02-954 Warsaw, Poland Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953, E-mail:
[email protected] USA and D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc., Detlef Fox, 19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza, New York, NY 10001, USA Canada Phone: +1 212 896-3881, Fax: +1 212 629-3988, E-mail:
[email protected]
photos: Pablo Scapinachis, Images 72, Pauline Fabry, Shutterstock.com
❱ PLUS • TCM herbs for cosmetics • Future options for cosmetic application • New market survey: Ingredients
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Ettlingen 2016 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine.
66 l COSSMA 6 I 2016
COS1606_66_Preview_Impressum.indd 66
COSSMA 7–8/2016 will be published on 5 August 2016
www.cossma.com
17.05.16 14:27
Find your suppliers here! Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry – news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
www.cossma.com/suppliers
www.intracosmed.ch
www.cortex.dk
www.molcare-consulting.com
www.azelis.com
www.roeper.de
www.merck4cosmetics.com
www.rationator.com
www.lanxess-distribution.com
www.cortex.dk
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.baycusan.com
www.gerschon.de
www.geka-world.com
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.intobeauty.ch
www.beinio.com
www.knoell.com
www.klar-partner.de
www.fdcconsulting.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.vivacell.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.sili.eu
www.derschlag.com
www.inolex.com
www.unionpack.de
www.sabinsa.com
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
www.rusi.de
www.lutz-packaging.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
Your Logo here for just E 60,– www.leolacosmetics.de
www.cossma.com
www.gscomputersysteme.de
www.mawi-chemie.de
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
Your logo can be listed here for just 60,– EUR per month – for further information, please contact Dorothea Michaelis |
[email protected] phone +49 (0)7243 7278-144
CSDE1606_EAZ_100-05.indd CSDE1605_EA-100-05-Logo.indd 948-16_EA_CosmeticNET.indd 67 3 1
12.05.16 22.04.16 11:17 21.04.16 15:17 08:50
5 2016
Extra mild, from root to tip.
DISCOVER GLUCOTAIN® The GlucoTain® range of innovative, sugar-based and sulfate-free surfactants provide consumers with mild and effective hair care solutions. Explore the GlucoTain® range today! CLARIANT.COM/MILDNESS
GlucoTain® is extra mild to hair keratin and scalp lipids.
Scan to watch video.
3397_Glucotain_2016_A4_en.indd 1
03.02.16 11:16
CSDE1606_Clariant.indd CSDE1603_Clariant.indd 68 2
04.05.16 17.02.16 07:42 08:40