Grooming dogs and cats

How to groom dogs and cats

3

Using clippers and blades

3

Using scissors

9

Using nail clippers

9

Bathing dogs or cats

11

Choosing an appropriate shampoo

13

Using dryers

15

Using brushes and combs

16

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2 © NSW DET 2007

How to groom dogs and cats

Clipping and grooming dogs and cats correctly is an essential skill for anyone working in the small animal industry. In the vet clinic where dogs and cats are being cared for and/or receiving treatment, it is important also that animals are cleaned in accordance with the supervising veterinarian’s instructions. When the dog and cat is being handled during grooming, the groomer is often the first person to pick up a lump or other possible health problem that the owner may not have noticed and is able to advise that the dog receive veterinary attention. Just doing a good hairstyle isn’t enough—it is important that the animal’s comfort and wellbeing is attended to as well. For this reason, knowing about the animal’s behaviour and how best to handle them is necessary before you even attempt to clip a pet. To be able to groom dogs and cats effectively, you need to know how to use: •

clippers, blades and scissors

•

nail clippers

•

hydro-bath

•

appropriate shampoo

•

dryers

•

brushes and combs.

For the tools to remain effective and hygienic, they need to be cleaned thoroughly and maintained.

Using clippers and blades Here is a set of electric clippers with clipper blades—of the type most commonly used in grooming small animals such as dogs.

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As you can see form the photo below, blades come in a number of sizes. You need to select the right blade size for the type of coat. A good rule of thumb is to choose a larger size blade than you would need and try this first, because it is easier to take hair off than to put it back on!

How to clip a dog Make sure that you have all the necessary items on hand before you commence clipping. This will prevent the need to leave the dog unattended for any period of time while you go to collect them. Let’s start with the on/off switch. As you can see in the photo below, the switch is encased in a water proof cover to prevent electrocution if touched with wet hands. Note: There is a metal hanger to hang the clippers on a hook. It is better to hang them rather than sit them on the bench as they can easily fall off and break.

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An ‘On/Off’ switch

Then: •

Tie the dog securely and safely before you start clipping. This is important for the dog's safety.

•

Use a non-slip surface to ensure that the dog is confident and comfortable.

•

Check the dog's temperament prior to starting, making sure that you reassure it if is scared or muzzle it if it is aggressive.

•

Select the correct size clipper blades for the particular coat type.

•

Show the dog the clippers, turn them on and let the dog become accustomed to the noise, this will avoid startling the dog.

•

Always commence clipping along the lower back, this is a safe area where the dog is least ticklish and less likely to bite you. Once the dog has settled, you can move on to more sensitive areas with less chance of upsetting the dog.

Advice for good clipping •

Always follow the lay of the hair; the only exceptions are when you are doing a surgical clip, or if you want a close finish such as is used on the bottom, feet or face.

•

Make the dog as comfortable as possible.

•

Select the correct size blades for the particular coat and style.

•

Reassure the dog at all times, be firm but kind.

•

Never leave the dog on the table unattended.

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•

Keep the blades as close to the skin as possible, don’t lift them or the hair will get caught in the combs.

•

Matted areas are easier to remove if you take lots of little blows with the clippers instead of attempting to pull them off.

•

Be aware of sensitive areas—genitals, ears, eyes, flank skin, nipples and mouth—avoid cutting or clipper burns as these will cause the dogs and owners a great deal of distress.

Cleaning and maintaining After the hydro-bath, the most expensive grooming items to buy are the clippers and blades. If you maintain them, you are more likely to get the longest and best use out of them—it is also critical to achieve good hygiene and to prevent cross-infection. To remove the blades from the clippers: 1. Push the slide forward. 2. Pull the blades off—you will be able to see the metal tongue clearly. This is what holds the blades in place. 3. Replace the blades. 4. Click the tongue back into working position. To clean and maintain a set of clippers and blades use: •

disinfectant lubricating spray—to lubricate the blades whilst clipping and to prevent cross-infection, overheating and rusting up

•

toothbrush—to clean dirt and hair from the tongue of the clippers and the combs on the blades

•

lubricating oil—to prevent rusting of the blades whilst in storage

•

stiff brush—to remove hair from the air vents in the clippers.

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Use the toothbrush to clean all loose hair, oil and scurf off the tongue and head of the clippers.

Use the toothbrush to clean dirt, hair and oil away from the teeth of the combs—all foreign matter must be removed to ensure that the blades will run cleanly. Slide the comb across the surface of the blades to ensure that you remove all debris from between. Be careful not to lose the small plastic guide as you do this.

Once you have thoroughly cleaned the blades, lubricate with disinfectant spray.

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Return blades to a dry, clean airtight container for storage.

Once you have finished cleaning the clippers, either hang them up, or place them in a clean, dry safe place.

Practising When you feel ready to clip a dog, ask your supervisor to allow you to assist with the clipping of well-mannered dogs. Simple short back and sides are good to start on as most owners will not be as fussy with the results. As with most practical skills, clipping is only learnt by constant practise—so, the more you do, the better you will become. Patience and perseverance are the two main attributes of a good dog groom—so, take a deep breath, throw away your watch and good luck!

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Using scissors Scissors are used to add the finishing touches to some of the more difficult areas. The photo below shows the two main types of scissors—thinning scissors (bottom of photo) and sharp edged scissors (top).

Thinning scissors are useful for thinning out areas without leaving any scissor marks on the animal's coat. Examples of places to use thinning scissors would be around the face, along the tail and feathering on the legs, chest and underbelly. Sharp edged scissors are useful for trimming difficult areas such as the corners of the eyes, around the anus, between the toes and inside the ears. To maintain both types of scissors you need to follow these steps: 1.

Disinfect

2.

Lubricate

3.

Sharpen regularly

4.

Place in a clean dry area for storage.

Using nail clippers The photo below shows a dog that is obviously in dire need of a toe nail clip! This is common for dogs with long coats and hairy feet—the long hair makes it difficult for the owner to check the toenails.

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What you need There are a variety of nail clippers available. You need to select a clipper that is appropriate for the size of the nails to be clipped.

How to clip toenails Most dogs and cats resent having their toenails clipped so you should assume that there might be a struggle. In which case, you should ask an assistant to restrain the pet firmly and apply a muzzle if necessary. Then: 1

Hold the paw out straight, to allow you to see the nails clearly.

2

Select the appropriate sized clippers.

3

Look closely at the photo below; this indicates the correct place to cut without hitting the quick and making the nail bleed.

4

Cut the nails one at a time once you are confident that you understand the difference between the nail and the quick.

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If you do happen to make a nail bleed, apply either soap or a powdered coagulant to cauterise the nail.

Tip When clipping the toenail, cut below the quick to avoid making the nail bleed. With clear toenails it is easy to see the quick as it is pink, so it is best to practise on these first before attempting to do black. This way, you will have an idea of how long the quick is in a normal dog or cat.

Bathing dogs or cats When you are choosing a bath, the following are some of the main points you should consider: •

Height: -

Consider the height of the groom and the size of the animal to be bathed.

-

A hydro-bath is ideal for large dogs as you can remove the side door and the dogs can step into the bath. The groomer doesn’t have to stretch to reach the dog.

-

A small dog or cat should be bathed in a sink or trough at waist height.

•

Surface of the bath: To ensure that the animal doesn’t feel insecure, use a non-slip surface for them to stand on.

•

Ease of cleaning: Use a non-permeable surface to reduce the likelihood of germs penetrating the surface.

How to bath and dry a dog correctly •

Safely secure your dog in the bath.

•

Check the water temperature is comfortable for the dog, before you commence.

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•

Thoroughly wet the coat and skin surface with luke warm water.

•

Apply shampoo in several places on the coat, gently massage to create a lather and leave on for five to ten minutes. Avoid the eyes and mouth.

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Make sure that you pay special attention to the ears, pads of the feet and anus, as these can be overlooked.

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Rinse well with clean water.

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Gently squeeze the hair on the legs, tail, ears and body to remove excess water.

•

Gently dry your dog's coat with a towel or chamois.

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Do not allow the dog to get cold while it is wet.

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Using a blow dryer, continually part the hair with your fingers or brush as you dry. This will allow the hair to dry from the skin outwards, making sure that the dog is properly dried.

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Be very careful not to burn the dog with the blow dryer, scratch its skin with harsh brushes or blow hot air in its face. All these activities will cause the dog a great deal of discomfort.

•

Once finished, place the dog in a well ventilated but sheltered cage where the air can circulate around the dog to ensure that it is completely dry. This will avoid the possibility of ‘hot spots’ developing.

Using a hydro-bath The photo below shows an example of a good quality hydro-bath. Notice the sliding door in the front—it makes it easier to lift the dog into and out of the bath. It is also low to the ground making it possible for dogs to actually jump up into the bath, reducing back injuries to the groomer.

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Benefits of using a hydro-bath An important benefit of using a hydro-bath is that you can thoroughly cleanse the dog’s skin and coat. In addition to this benefit, hydro-baths are: •

an economical way to reduce water use

•

easier for lifting large dogs into the bath

•

therapeutic for itchy dogs who resent conventional bathing

•

useful for cleaning wounds prior to surgery

•

good for giving a thorough covering of parasite control shampoo/rinse.

How to clean and maintain the bath/hydro-bath 1

Rinse thoroughly with clean water.

2

Follow by flushing out the bath/hydro-bath with disinfectant/deodorant and allow it to sit for a few moments.

3

Rinse thoroughly to remove all chemical residue and hair.

4

Check the plughole for loose hair and other items that may contaminate and remove them.

5

Turn the hydro-bath off at the power socket.

Choosing an appropriate shampoo The appropriate shampoo is one that maintains or returns the skin and hair of the animal to a normal healthy state.

A range of animal shampoos and conditioners

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Types of shampoos There are three basic groups of shampoos: •

Cleansing: These shampoos are used for the removal of allergens from the skin of allergic dogs and routine use on normal dogs.

•

Medicated:

•

-

These are used to treat specific skin diseases in the skin.

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A veterinarian must correctly diagnose these before application of shampoo.

Insecticidal shampoos: -

These contain pyrethrins or permethrins which kill the parasites.

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There is a large array of brands that claim to work. It is best to read the label or seek professional advice, particularly if you are treating young or lactating animals.

When you are choosing a shampoo, consider the type of skin the animal has and then look at different shampoos in terms of what they do: shampoo actions and the main/active ingredients. The table below summarises some of the main types of active shampoo ingredients and shampoo actions according to skin type. Skin type

Shampoo actions

Active ingredients

Pruritus: dry scaly skin, allergic reaction, parasite infestation.

Soothing, moisturising, soap Olefin sulphonate, glycerine, free, pH balance to normal lactic acid, colloidal oatmeal. canine skin.

Seborrhoea: dry scaly skin, Restores normal epidermal strong odour, can be greasy cell activity whilst at the yellow/brown clumps of lipid same time cleansing the skin. material.

Sulphur, salicylic acid, coal tar, as well as olefin sulphonate, glycerine, lactic acid.

Pyoderma: bacterial infection of the skin.

Topical antibacterial therapy. Removal of debris and inhibiting further bacterial growth.

Witch-hazel, propylene glycol, glycerine, lactic acid, chloroxylenol, menthol, benzoyl peroxide.

Malassezia: over proliferation and hypersensitivity to the fungus, Malassezia pachydermatitis. Caused by humidity.

A broad-spectrum antimicrobial, fungal and antibacterial agent.

Sulphur, salicylic acid, econazole, chloroxylenol.

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Using dryers Hair dryers used for people can be used on cats. However, you need to introduce the dryer gently as the noise may startle the cat. Especially with anaesthetised animals, keep your hand in the air flow at the level of the animal's skin so you can gauge how hot the skin is getting as it is very easy to burn with these sorts of dryers.

Types of dryers There three main types of dryers: •

Cage dryers: These are attached to the cage and dry the animal while it is sitting in the cage.

•

Floor dryer: Freestanding high volume dryer which doesn’t burn the dogs as it blows out cool air.

•

Hand-held dryer: Used for human hair, easy to transport but can burn the skin if not used correctly.

Cleaning and maintaining Always turn off and disconnect from power source before cleaning a dryer. Then, follow these steps: 1

Remove all loose hair from around the vents.

2

Do not allow overheating.

3

Place in a DRY area away from any wet areas.

4

Do not handle with wet hands.

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Using brushes and combs There is a wide variety of brushes and combs. In the photo below are a few of the options available. Starting from the left is a stiff bristle brush for medium length and thick coats. Next is a double-sided comb for longer fine hair that matts easily. Next is a slicker brush for pulling finer, downy hair out of winter coats. On the far right is a comb for removing fleas from the hair shafts.

In the photo below is a range of combs. The comb on the far right is a dematting comb. The three in the middle are metal combs of different sizes. These are used for combing the long hair parts like the feathers on the legs and tail.

Choosing the right brush and comb There are so many different types of coats that selecting an appropriate brush and comb becomes a complex issue. Things to consider when selecting are: •

length and thickness of the animal’s coat

•

condition of the coat—for example, is it matted or full of burrs?

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•

sensitivity of the animal—some breeds are very sensitive and do not appreciate a hard brush on their coat

•

outcome expected—for example, do you wish to thin the coat out, or improve condition, remove dead hair or fluff up the coat to make it look thicker?

How to brush dogs and cats It is important to remember that the animal must be restrained safely and, if necessary, a muzzle should be used to avoid injury while grooming. It is also worth considering the comfort of the animal you are grooming. Avoid pulling at any knots—instead, separate large knots into smaller knots making them easier to remove. To avoid causing possible infection and discomfort or aggression, do not use harsh brushes directly on the skin.

Cleaning and maintenance When you have finished, remove all the hair from any brushes and combs you have been using and then: 1

Remove all hair.

2

Wash thoroughly with disinfectant.

3

Rinse all chemicals off.

4

Towel dry.

5

Place in a clean dry drawer.

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