14

❂

Lawns

G

ood planning is key to establishing a healthy lawn. Once the turfgrass is growing, continued care — watering, mowing, dethatching and aeration — will keep it healthy for years to come. This chapter discusses each of these topics in detail.

Which grass to plant The two primary lawn grasses grown in Alaska are Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue. Many cultivars of each have been developed through selection and breeding. Cultivars differ primarily in cold tolerance, disease resistance and stress tolerance. There are advantages and disadvantages to any kind of grass. It’s important to choose a turfgrass that is suitable for your site’s soil, light and drainage conditions (Table 1). Kentucky bluegrass is more ideally suited for sunny locations and high traffic lawns. It can tolerate higher pH soil. This grass does have a high fertility requirement compared to red fescue. Kentucky bluegrass is rarely planted alone in Alaska except on sports fields. The recommended variety is ‘Nugget,’ but this cultivar can be difficult to obtain in some years. Other suitable varieties include ‘Merion,’ ‘Park’ and ‘Fylking.’ Red fescue performs well in moderate shade, but consider using a groundcover if shade exceeds 50 percent. It can be extremely cold tolerant, is moderately resistant to drought and requires less fertilizer than Kentucky bluegrass. It requires well-drained soils. The downside to red fescue is it develops thatch more easily and is less resistant to high traffic. The recommended varieties are ‘Arctared’ for north of the Alaska Range and ‘Boreal’ to the south.

❂ Topics in this chapter ❂❂ ❂❂ ❂❂ ❂❂

Which grass to plant Establishing a new lawn Lawn maintenance Lawn renovation

By Arthur L. Antonelli, Extension Entomologist, Washington State University; and Gwen Stahnke, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, Washington State University. Adapted by Stephen Brown, Extension Faculty, Agriculture and Horticulture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Alaska Fairbanks.

264 • Lawns—Chapter 14

Turfgrass terminology Vegetative parts of a grass plant (Figure 1) are useful for identifying a grass. Factors to look for include: • Leaf blade • Leaf sheath Culm Node • Vernation (stem) • Collar Ligule • Ligule Leaf • Auricles blade • Growth habit Sheath Figures 2–8 illustrate each of these and give hints on what to look for when identifyCrown ing a type of grass. Always use more than one plant and identifying structure for identification, since Roots vegetative characteristics can vary depending on environmental conditions or cultivar. Figure 1.—A grass plant.

Inflorescence

Flowering shoot Tiller

Rhizome

Leaf blade The blade is the upper flattened portion of a turfgrass leaf (Figure 2). • Is the leaf texture fine, medium, or coarse? • Are veins prominent? • What shade of green is the blade? • Is the blade smooth (glabrous) or hairy Pubescent, Smooth, (pubescent)? sharply pointed boat-shaped • Is the tip of the blade sharply pointed, Figure 2.—Leaf blade shapes and textures. boat-shaped, or blunt and round? Leaf sheath The sheath is the lower portion of a leaf — the part that encircles the stem (Figure 3). • Is the sheath cylindrical or compressed? • Is the sheath closed or open, or do the Closed Open margins overlap? Figure 3.—Leaf sheath types.

Coarse, blunt

Overlapping

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Vernation Vernation refers to the arrangement of new leaves within the older leaf sheath (Figure 4). • Is the leaf folded or rolled when it emerges? Folded

Rolled

Figure 4.—Venation types.

Collar The collar is a band at the junction of the leaf blade and the leaf sheath (Figure 5). • Is the collar divided, broad or narrow?

Divided

Broad

Narrow

Figure 5.—Collar types.

Ligule The ligule is an appendage on the inner side of a grass leaf at the junction of the blade and sheath (Figure 6). • Is the ligule absent, membranous or hairy? • If present, what is the size and shape of the ligule? • What does the upper edge of the ligule look like? Is it smooth, notched or hairy (ciliate)? Auricles Auricles are appendages occurring in pairs at the base of the blade (Figure 7). • Are auricles present or absent? • If present, are auricles small (rudimentary) or prominent (clawlike)?

Absent

Smooth, membranous

Hairy

Figure 6.—Ligule types.

Absent

Small

Prominent

Figure 7.—Auricle types. Tiller

Growth habit Growth habit refers to the orientation of shoots (Figure 8). • Is the plant erect or lying down (decumbent)? • Are there lateral shoots such as rhizomes (underground stems), stolons (aboveground stems) or tillers (shoots that arise from the crown)?

Stolon

Figure 8.—Growth habits.

Rhizome

266 • Lawns—Chapter 14

Table 1.—Characteristics of some turfgrasses in Alaska. Common Name Variety

Establishment Rate Fast Med Slow

Winter Shade Drought Spring Hardiness Tolerance Resistance Green-up Rate Good Poor Good Poor Good Med Poor Fast Med Slow

Kentucky Bluegrass ‘Common’ ‘Fylking’ ‘Merion’ ‘Nugget’ ‘Park’

•



• • • •

• • • •

•



• • • • •

•

• • • •



• •

Red Fescue ‘Arctared’ ‘Boreal’ ‘Common’ ‘Pennlawn’

• •

• •



• •

• •

• • • •



• • •

•



•

Annual Ryegrass* (Lolium multiflorum)

• (very fast)



•

•







•

• • •

• •

•

*Useful on erodible sites where rapid establishment is necessary.

Annual/perennial ryegrass is often blended with lawn seed mixes in Alaska to act as a quick-growing “nurse crop” for Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue lawns. It is also often used on highly erodible sites. However, it will not survive extremely cold temperatures and is not an appropriate grass after lawn establishment.

Establishing a new lawn Use the methods described below to prepare and care for a new lawn, regardless of whether you establish it by sodding or seeding.

Soil requirements One of the most important factors affecting a lawn’s health is the soil. Consider the following soil characteristics before planting a lawn.

Texture It is not always necessary to have beautiful topsoil to establish a new lawn. Lawns can grow in essentially any soil texture from sand to clay. The lighter the texture (for example, sandy soil), the more difficult it is to maintain proper fertilization and watering. The heavier the texture (for example, clayey soil), the greater the problems with drainage and wetness during wet periods. However, heavier textured soils are easier to maintain from the standpoint of fertilization and watering. In general, a sandy loam soil is good for lawns and other garden purposes. Many Alaska homeowners have little or no topsoil and find it necessary to purchase manufactured topsoil. The makeup of manufactured topsoils varies, but is typically ⅓ sand, ⅓ loam or silt and ⅓ organic material such as peat or compost. The problem with manufactured topsoil is it often has very poor soil structure and can “settle” by as much as 50 percent.

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Depth Six inches of topsoil over a well-drained base is the minimum recommended for a good-quality lawn. Sandy subsoils work quite well provided you follow fertility recommendations. Drainage If your soil contains hardpan or extremely heavy clay layers, place drain tubes or pipes in the lawn during construction. Place the lines at least 16 inches below the finished surface and 10 to 15 feet apart. Cover them with at least a 6-inch layer of pea gravel, then add sand or sandy soil to the surface. If drainage is poor, also slope grades away from the house with a 1 to 2 percent slope if possible. Fertility It always is best to do a soil test before finishing soil preparation for a new lawn. Test for nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), See Chapter 3, potassium (K) and pH. Local Soils and Cooperative Extension Service Fertilizers. offices can provide information on soil testing facilities. If phosphate or lime is needed, incorporate it into the soil before establishing a lawn. Nitrogen and potassium, both of which are water-soluble, will find their way into the root zone, so you can add them later. If it’s not possible to test your soil, apply 10 pounds of 10-20-20 (N-P-K) per 1000 square feet before planting to get the lawn off to a good start. This rate provides 1 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet and 2 pounds each of P and K per 1,000 square feet. Surface preparation If your site is newly cleared, remove as many tree roots as possible. This will prevent/reduce mushrooms later on. After the

lawn area is graded, roll, rake and smooth it to perfect the grade. The smoother the lawn, the better its appearance following mowing. After roots lock soil particles together, minor surface irregularities become very difficult to remove. Loosen compacted soil to the point that a 160-pound person walking across the surface leaves footprints approximately ½ inch deep.

Seeding Always buy fresh seed and store seed in a cool, dry place. For Kentucky bluegrass lawns, seed at 2½ to 3 pounds per 1000 square feet. For red fescue lawns, seed at 3½ to 4 pounds per 1000 square feet. Bluegrass/red fescue lawn mixes are sown at rates based upon the predominant seed contained in the mix. A 60/40 mix of Kentucky bluegrass/red fescue should be seeded at 3 to 3½ pounds per 1000 square feet. A 40/60 mix of red fescue/Kentucky bluegrass should be seeded at a slightly higher rate of 3½ to 4 pounds. To achieve best coverage, distribute half of the seed over the site in one direction, then apply the other half in the opposite direction. Save a few ounces of seed to patch up thin areas or to have analyzed if you later suspect you received poor-quality seed. After distributing the seed, lightly rake it into the top ¼ inch of soil. Then roll the surface with a lawn roller half full of water. If the surface dries before germination, the rate and percentage of germination may be severely reduced. Use sprinklers to maintain constant surface moisture until the seeds germinate (usually about 7 to 14 days). The best method

268 • Lawns—Chapter 14

is to use several light irrigations daily. Straw or open mesh burlap can be placed on the surface to help maintain moisture, especially on slopes. If you use straw, be sure that it comes from a weed-free source or you may be cultivating more than just grass in your new lawn. One bale of straw will cover 5000 square feet. It does not need to be picked up afterwards. Ordinary burlap needs to be removed when the grass is ¼ to ½ inch long. Open mesh burlap does not need to be removed.

Caring for a new lawn Watering After grass emerges, reduce irrigation frequency. In general, new grass can go approximately 2 days without water. After you mow the grass the first time, you can irrigate even less frequently. Mature lawns on soils approximately 6 inches deep can go as long as 1 week without irrigation. When most of the soil moisture is gone, replenish the total amount at one time. Avoid watering more than two or three times per week. Remember “water deeply and infrequently.” Weed control Do not spray weeds in a new lawn until it is at least 6 weeks old. Use the lowest recommended rate on the herbicide label. Fertilizing If you apply preplant fertilizers, there usually is little need to fertilize a lawn before it is approximately 4 to 6 weeks old. Then, begin a fertilization program as discussed under “Lawn maintenance.” Lawns on extremely sandy soils may require some nitrogen 3 to 4 weeks after establishment. To prevent leaching, apply about ½ pound of available N after about 3 weeks, and another ½ pound a few weeks later.

Lawn maintenance A good lawn should last a lifetime if properly fertilized, watered, mowed, dethatched and over-seeded as needed.

Mowing Mowing height can influence a lawn’s appearance and life span. A typical Alaska lawn should be mowed at about 3 inches. However, never remove more than about ⅓ of the total leaf surface. Reel-type mowers provide the cleanest most appealing appearance, but can be higher maintenance and thus less practical than rotary mowers. Whichever kind you choose to use, it is important to keep the blades sharp. Lawns mowed with a sharp blade are aesthetically more pleasing and are more resistant to diseases. Clipping removal is optional for many parts of Alaska. Mulching clippings into the lawn recycles nutrients and creates a stronger stand of grass. Areas that experience extremely cool moist summers may see an increase in the leaf thatch if clippings are not removed. As a general rule, leaving grass clippings on the lawn does not add to thatch development. Soil microorganisms break the clippings down quickly and return a valuable source of nutrients back to the lawn. Grass clippings are 75 to 85 percent water and quickly decompose on most sites. The major causes of thatch are management practices that reduce the population of microorganisms that decompose thatch. The growth of microbes is encouraged with good

Chapter 14—Lawns • 269

aeration, a pH between 6.5 and 6.7 and mulch mowing, and by not overfertilizing. The best way to recycle clippings is to use a mulching lawn mower. This type of mower has blades that make finer clippings and forces the clippings down with more force than a regular mower.

Watering Overwatering can cause many problems — notably leaching of nutrients beyond the root zone. Also, saturated soils tend to induce surface rooting because roots develop where oxygen supplies are greatest. Saturated soils are very low in oxygen. Thorough, infrequent watering generally is more desirable than light, frequent applications, which tend to result in over-irrigation. Monitor turf closely and water before wilting or browning occurs. You can use a soil probe to check soil moisture content. Here are some tips to help you know when to water: • Know your soil’s texture and depth. • On hot, dry summer days in the Interior, lawns may consume more than ¼ inch of water. • The surest ways to determine when to irrigate are to feel the soil in the root zone and to observe the appearance of the grass. Blue-green color, failure of leaves to spring back when pressed down and lack of dew formation are signs of excessive dryness. When it’s time to water, follow these guidelines: • Apply only enough water to adequately wet the effective root zone. • Apply water slowly to achieve better infiltration and prevent runoff. • Place straight-sided, flat-bottomed containers in the sprinkler pattern to determine the rate of water output.

Fertilizing A good nutritional program can reduce weeds, moss and some diseases (Table 2). Have a soil test done to determine what fertilizer is needed. Nitrogen may be the only nutrient needed if P (phosphorus) and K (potassium) levels are high. You can save money by not buying nutrients that are not needed. Apply 4 pounds of available nitrogen per year per 1000 square feet in four applications: 1 pound each in May, June, August and early September. Studies at the University of Alaska Fairbanks Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Station in Palmer show that fertilizing in mid-September does not lead to winter injury. Granular or pelleted fertilizer is best applied over large areas with a cyclone spreader. Quick-release fertilizers can burn grass if you don’t water thoroughly after application.

See Chapter 3, Soils and Fertilizers.

Table 2.—Common sources of nutrients. Nitrogen Ammonium nitrate Ammonium sulfate Urea Urea formaldehyde Calcium nitrate Methylene ureas Sulfur-coated urea IBDU Milorganite Human and animal wastes Animal and vegetable by-products Phosphorus Single super phosphate Treble super phosphate

Nutrient content (%) 331⁄3 21 46 38 15 varies 31–36 31 6

Comment Can burn.* Can burn.* Can burn.* Can burn.*

varies varies 20 44

Potassium Muriate of potash 60 Potassium sulfate 50

Usually nonburning. Usually nonburning. Can burn. Less burn potential than muriate.

*Quick-release nitrogen sources can cause burning if not watered in immediately.

270 • Lawns—Chapter 14

The ideal fertilizer is a “bridge” fertilizer containing a small amount of quick-release fertilizer plus a slow-release fertilizer to supply N between fertilizations. New plastic-coated sources look very promising for homeowner use. Natural organic fertilizers also work well. A soil test will tell you whether lime is needed. If it is, apply 25 to 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet in split applications during fall or early spring. Lime does not remove moss. Agricultural lime supplies calcium, while dolomitic lime supplies calcium and magnesium.

Aeration Lawn aeration is an often overlooked lawn maintenance practice. Aeration has several benefits: • It increases soil oxygen and water penetration. • It encourages root growth. • It reduces compaction. • It increases germination of over-seeded grasses. • It increases fertilizer and lime movement into the soil. • It reduces thatch. Use an aerifier with hollow tines to remove soil cores. Cores left on the surface will be broken up by normal mowing. Aerifier holes are best left unfilled unless there is a need to change the soil composition. Topdressing with coarse sand can help improve the drainage, especially in compacted areas. Topdressing with compost can improve the nutrient holding. Spikers (machines that punch holes without removing cores) are of less value for aerating because they compact the soil around the holes and do not increase the flow of water and nutrients into the root zone.

Thatch control Thatch is a layer of living and dead grass stems, roots and leaves that develops at the soil surface beneath actively growing grass. Stems and roots are the main contributors to thatch; leaves contribute little. A thin layer of thatch (½ inch) is desirable to add greater impact absorption, improve wear tolerance and insulate soil from extreme temperatures. Thatch-induced problems Excessive thatch (more than ¾ inch) is undesirable for several reasons: • It restricts the movement of air, water, plant nutrients and other applied materials into the soil. • During wet periods, it may act as a sponge and hold excessive amounts of water, thus reducing the oxygen supply to roots. • During hot, dry weather, it may become dry and very resistant to wetting. • It can harbor turfgrass disease organisms. • It reduces fungicide and insecticide effectiveness since they may not reach target pests. • It may elevate plant crowns, making the turf more susceptible to winter injury. Thatch accumulation usually is greater when grass is mowed high; hence, stems may become elongated with the leaves forming at the top. Frequently, these leaves are mowed off, and the lawn can appear brown, scalped or off-color. Thatch also affects mowing height. As undecomposed material builds up, a mower tends to ride on the thatch and does not cut at the desired height. If you lower the cutting height to overcome this problem, scalping and brown areas can develop.

Chapter 14—Lawns • 271

Factors causing thatch development Thatch accumulation in lawns is influenced by the following factors: • Too little or too much nitrogen—Nitrogen stimulates bacterial decomposition of thatch. Other essential plant nutrients, such as phosphorus, calcium, magnesium and potassium, also must be present in proper proportions. However, too many nutrients can stimulate excessive grass growth and thatch production. • Excessive wetness or over-watering— Too much water reduces soil oxygen and inhibits bacterial activity needed for thatch decomposition. Also, extended periods of saturation in the root zone induce surface rooting and greater thatch accumulation. • Mowing height—In general, the higher the mowing height, the greater the tendency to produce thatch. (If you cut too low, the lawn may develop a shallow root system, susceptible to drought. Also shorter grass may provide sunlight for weeds to germinate and get started.) • Grass parts—Crown tissues, stems and roots are more resistant to decay than leaves. They contribute most to thatch development in all grass varieties. • Soil pH—Acid soil conditions (pH 5 or below) reduce bacterial activity, which may result in slow stem and root decay, especially if calcium is deficient. Preventing thatch Good turfgrass management helps prevent thatch accumulation and maintain a healthy lawn. Here are some specific suggestions: • Mow at the proper height. • Maintain adequate fertilization for normal growth. Nitrogen is important to stimulate populations of bacterial organisms, but do not over-fertilize. A balanced program is essential.

• Water thoroughly and infrequently. Avoid light, frequent irrigations. Do not over-water. • Check soil depth and moisture content frequently during the irrigation season, and irrigate properly to maintain correct soil moisture levels. • Aerate the soil with hollow-tined aerators if it becomes compacted or if water does not penetrate. • Use soil tests to determine the pH. Maintain proper pH levels. If the soil becomes too acidic (5.5 or lower), a light application of lime may aid in thatch decomposition. Removing thatch Remove thatch annually if necessary so that it doesn’t build up to more than ¾ inch. If thatch becomes too deep (more than 2 inches), renovation or repeated core aeration may be the only answer. Late spring is the best time to remove thatch once the grass has greened up. Normal thatch removal will not injure the lawn severely enough to necessitate reseeding. If properly dethatched, grasses recover quickly and exhibit their normal beauty when conditions are suitable for growth. Considerable force is necessary to slice or scratch into a thatch mat and remove all of the dead material. Power rakes or other mechanically driven dethatching machines are superior to hand rakes or thatching blades for mowers. Run dethatchers across the turf in two opposite directions. Remove loosened material before changing direction. You’ll remove approximately ¼ inch of thatch by going over the lawn in two directions. Next, mow immediately at the recommended mowing height. If thatch

272 • Lawns—Chapter 14

becomes unmanageable (more than 2 inches deep), it is best to remove all grass with a power sod cutter, cultivate the soil and reseed with desirable grasses.

Weed control

See Chapter 20, Weed Management, and Chapter 22, Understanding Pesticides.

By using good fertilization, mowing and watering practices, you’ll minimize weed problems. If you do need to control weeds, the first step is to identify the weed so you can choose the correct herbicide. Several herbicides are available for controlling lawn weeds. Some are selective, i.e., they eradicate only target plants. Examples are 2,4-D, MCPA, MCPP, dicamba and triclopyr. Others are nonselective; they eradicate all plants, including grasses. Glyphosate (Roundup) is an example of a nonselective herbicide. Herbicides come in many forms with granules and liquids being the most common. Liquid herbicides usually are more effective than granular ones due to more thorough coverage of plant leaves. Either form is effective if it is absorbed by roots. Use a liquid formulation if your yard has a lot of trees. Weed and feed products contain both fertilizer and herbicide and should be kept away from flower and vegetable gardens, trees and shrubs. Grass and weeds should be growing vigorously when treated. Always read the label for application instructions. Be cautious of drift (particles) and volatility (fumes). Use proper equipment and never use excessive pressure. Lower pressure increases droplet size, thus reducing drift. Never spray when wind is more than 2 to 3 mph. Use a drift shield on boom sprayers.

Disease control Several diseases occur on lawns in Alaska. Some of the more common diseases are as follows: • Fairy ring—Affects all grasses. Fungus grows on decomposing soil organic matter and causes hydrophobic (waterrepellent) patches. Fertilizing affected areas can camouflage the disease • Red thread—Related to low nitrogen fertility. Fertilizing helps grass overcomes this disease. • Powery mildew—White powdery growth on leaves. Favors Kentucky bluegrasses. Prefers cool humid conditions. Increasing sunlight and air circulation improves this disease. • Mushrooms—Result from not removing tree roots when establishing a lawn. There is no effective fungicide treatment for mushrooms. • Gray snow mold (Typhula blight)— Evidenced by dead bleached areas immediately after snowmelt. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer after September 15. Collecting leaf clippings during the last fall mowing may help.

Lawn renovation Lawns severely damaged by diseases or uncontrolled weeds may have to be renovated. Renovation describes corrective procedures to restore beauty to an old lawn. Partial renovation can be as simple as over-seeding a thin turf area, or can include power raking and core aeration if thatch is greater than ½ inch or the soil is compacted. It is a much more severe treatment than normal dethatching, which should be practiced regularly on lawns as needed. Total renovation involves killing existing turf and reseeding. If renovation is not done prop-

Chapter 14—Lawns • 273

erly, the site will look good to begin with, but eventually will return to the conditions (species) existing before renovation.

Partial renovation Follow these steps to renovate a lawn without totally removing existing vegetation: 1. Adjust the mower to approximately ¾ inch and mow the lawn. 2. Power-rake the lawn as many times as necessary to remove accumulated thatch. It is best to dethatch in opposite directions. Thoroughness is important. 3. When all thatch has been removed, mow the turf again at approximately ¾ inch high. 4. If grass stems and crowns were thinned excessively by heavy raking, over-seed the lawn. Before over-seeding, remove sod from all high and low spots, adjust these areas to the proper grade and replace the sod to obtain a uniformly smooth surface. Over-seed at a rate of one-half the recommended establishment rate. Growth will initiate quickly from the remaining grass stems and crowns and from the seed. 5. Although the turf may be somewhat thin, it’s important to mow regularly at the recommended mowing height. It also is important to maintain surface moisture for seed germination.

Total renovation Total renovation involves killing undesirable grasses with a nonselective herbicide. This is the best approach for lawns having large patches of weedy grasses such as annual bluegrass. Apply glyphosate (e.g., Roundup) when plants are actively growing. It may take more than one application to kill everything.

After killing the grass, you have a choice of removing the dead sod or following steps 1 through 5 above for renovation. If you remove all sod and cultivate the soil, follow the procedures for establishing a new lawn. It is advisable to increase the seeding rates to those recommended for new lawns. Apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet after seeding to hasten establishment. If the soil is extremely sandy, make two applications of ½ pound each instead of a single 1-pound application to avoid the possibility of nutrient loss.

For more information UAF Cooperative Extension publications Establishing a Lawn in Southeastern Alaska, HGA-00238. Lawn Establishment, HGA-00036. Lawn Maintenance, HGA-00334. Lawn Maintenance and Pesticides, HGA00236. Managing Alaskan Lawns – Weed Identification, Prevention and Control, HGA00239. Moss Control in Lawns, HGA-00133. Soil Sampling, FGV-00044.

WSU Cooperative Extension publications Annual Bluegrass Control, EB1129. Annual Bluegrass Control in Turfgrass for Homeowners, EB1600. Chemical Weed Control for Home Grounds, EB1214. Construction and Maintenance of Natural Grass Athletic Fields, PNW0240. Corticium Red Thread of Turfgrass, EB1016. Disease Control in Home Lawns, EB0938. Fusarium Patch of Turf, EB1108.

274 • Lawns—Chapter 14

Home Lawns, EB0482. Lawn Renovation, EB0924. Lawn Weed Control, EB0607. Moles, EB1028. Role of Lime in Turfgrass Management, EB1096. Slime Molds on Lawns and Other Areas, EB1083. Thatch and Its Control, EB1117. Turfgrass and Soil-Water Relationship, EB1280. Turfgrass Diseases, EB0713. Turfgrass Diseases Supplement, EB0713S.

OSU CooperativeExtension publications Controlling Moss in Lawns, FS 55. Fertilizing Home Lawns, EC 1278. Practical Lawn Establishment and Renovations, EC 1550. Removing Thatch and Aerating Lawns, EC 1018. Soil Sampling for Home Gardens and Small Acreages, EC 628.

O.M. Scott pocket identification booklets Guide to Identification of Turfgrass Diseases, No. 9931. Guide to Identification of Grasses, No. 9927. Guide to Identification of Dicot Turf Weeds, No. 9929. For information on prices and ordering: Proturf Mail Order Selections O.M. Scott & Sons Company ATTN: Order Center 14111 Scottslawn Road Marysville, Ohio 43040

Other publications Beard, J.B. How to Have a Beautiful Lawn. Kansas City, Missouri: Intertec Publishing Co. Beard, J.B. 1982. Turf Management for Golf Courses. Minneapolis, Minn.: Burgess Publishing Co. Beard, J.B. 1972. Turfgrass: Science and Culture. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc. Emmons, R.D. 1996. Turfgrass Science and Management. Albany, New York: Delmar Publishers, Inc., Johnson, W.T. and H.H. Lyon. Insects That Feed on Trees and Shrubs. 1988. Ithaca, New York: Cornell University Press, Comstock Publishing Associates. Smiley, R.W. Compendium on Turfgrass Diseases. St. Paul, Minn.: American Phytopathological Society. Tashiro, Haruo. 1991. Turfgrass Insects of the United States and Canada. Ithaca, New York: Cornell University Press, Comstock Publishing Associates. Turgeon, A.J. Turfgrass Management. 1998. Reston, Virginia: Reston Publishing Co. Vargas, J.M., Jr. Management of Turfgrass Diseases. 1993. Minneapolis, Minn.: Burgess Publishing Co.