©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PLAN YOUR TRIP
1
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Map .................................. 17 Top Experiences ........
2 4
Romania Map of Romania ............. Welcome to Romania ..... Need to Know ................. If You Like ........................ Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Regions at a Glance .......
14 16 18 20 22 24 26
Go further with Lonely Planet Book your travels
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
Find a flight
to help you put together your perfect trip
Find the right flight through our online booking service.
Bulgaria Map of Bulgaria .............. Welcome to Bulgaria...... Need to Know ................. If You Like ........................ Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Regions at a Glance .......
Visit the Lonely Planet website to book author-reviewed and recommended accommodation for any price range.
Book activities Discover and book amazing experiences online for destinations around the globe.
3 Currency » The lev (lv), divided
L
into 100 stotinki
»
When to Go
Y B
Dry climate Warm to hot summers, mild winters Mild to hot summers, cold winters Mild summers, cold winters
Talk to locals With just a few words in the local language you can make a real connection when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter where you’re going.
B
6
shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooks h b k
»
regions at a glance
»
f m c »
Wallachia
Transylvania
History 33 Nature 3 Winemaking 33
Castles 333 Mountains 333 Scenic Villages 33
Varna GO Jun–Sep #
Museums 333 Entertainment 333 Food 33
Museums Bucharest is home to the country’s top museums of art history and natural
History The modern Romanian state traces its roots back to the old principality of Wallachia, once ruled over by the feared Vlad őepeŎ. The princely courts of Curtea de ArgeŎ and TârgoviŎte tell this history. Nature The Danube River defines Wallachia’s
Castles Who can blame author Bram Stoker for looking to Transylvania for inspiration on spooky castles? Bran is a national treasure, but don’t neglect Corvin Castle, at Hunedoara, or RâŎnov, not far from BraŎov.
The Carpathian Mountains draw a wide arc through the centre of the country, leaving a swath of exposed rocky peaks surrounded by groves of pine and deciduous trees, and stretches of bright green meadow below. Hiking trails skirt the peaks, and a network of mountain huts provides somewhere to rest your head at night. Europe’s second-longest river, the Danube, marks Romania’s southern border before turning suddenly northward and emptying into the Black Sea. The Danube Delta is a vast and unique protected wetland, perfect for hiking, Àshing, boating and birdwatching.
Sofia GO Mar–Jun
Castles & Medieval Villages
#
#
The land that gave us Dracula has no shortage of jaw-dropping castles pitched precariously on rocky hilltops. There’s spooky Bran Castle of course, with its spurious connection to Bram Stoker’s Àctional count, but don’t overlook beauties such as Hunedoara’s 14th-century Corvin Castle or King Carol I’s sumptuous 19th-century pile, PeleŎ Castle. North of Curtea de ArgeŎ, you’ll Ànd the ruins of a fortress that really was the stomping ground of old Vlad őepeŎ. In MaramureŎ you’ll discover towns and villages that seemingly stepped out of the Middle Ages, complete with hay racks, horse carts and stately wooden churches.
#
Bansko GO Dec–Feb
6 1 »
a 6
4
»
i 2
Check out our full range of guides Travelling somewhere somewhe ere else? Staying Stay ying longer in a particular yin particula place? Check out our full range of guides, writ tten and researched by b expert authors to give e you an amazing travel t written experience.
GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
ROMANIA & BULGARIA 228 230 240 242 247 250 252
Learn about the big picture, so you
COUNTRY COU NTR TRY RY & CITY C CITY
Bulgaria Bulgaria Today................ History ............................. Outdoor Activities & Wildlife.......................... Visual Arts, Crafts & Music ............................ The Bulgarian People .... Bulgarian Wine ............... Bulgarian Cuisine ...........
DISCOVER DISC OVER
Th ffreedom The d you need d to t plan the perfect trip.
can make sense of what you see
Full-colour F ll l images i and top itineraries.
POCKET POCK ET
Perfect for a quick visit.
shop.lonelyplanet.com
442 444
5
454
9 781741 799446
EBOOKS
The same great content with added interactivity.
shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks
Get inspired to travel The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting magazine for people who want to see more of the world. Go online to find out more and see the latest subscription offer.
460 463 465 468
ISBN 978-1-74179-944-6
romania-bulgaria-6-cover.indd 2
Plovdiv GO Mar–Jun
Sozopol GO May–Aug
Mountains Transylvania’s
UNDERSTAND Romania Romania Today ............... History ............................. The Dracula Myth ........... Outdoor Activities & Wildlife.......................... Visual Arts & .................. Folk Culture ................. The Romanian People.... The Romanian Table ......
t a
M #
Natural Beauty
Bucharest
lonelypl lonelyplanet.com/apps
lonelyplanet.com/destinations
Welcome to
Romania
Talk to other travellers Looking for ideas and advice on a specific destination? Want to share your experiences with the most active travel community? Then head to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum, where you’ll find new posts every 12 seconds.
Reserve a room 278 280 282 284 286 288 290
Need to Know
26
2
lonelyplanet.com/magazine STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact
52599
Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.
AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111
twitter.com/ lonelyplanet
USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572
facebook.com/ lonelyplanet
UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112
lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter
8/02/2013 1:45:35 PM
ON THE ROAD
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
Maramure¢ p164 Moldavia & the Bucovina Monasteries p181
Transylvania p72
Cri¢ana & Banat p147
ROMANIA Wallachia p56
Bucharest p30
The Danube Delta & Black Sea Coast p209
The Danube & Northern Plains p425 BULGARIA Sofia Veliko Târnovo & p294 Black Sea Coast Central Mountains p393 p357 Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains p319
SURVIVAL GUIDE Romania Directory A–Z.................. 256 Transport......................... 264 Language......................... 271
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
Bulgaria Directory A–Z.................. 472 Transport......................... 480 Language......................... 487
Index................................. 494 Map Legend..................... 510 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Mark Baker Chris Deliso, Richard Waters, Richard Watkins
\ #
\ #
\ #
Prešov
Bardejov
SLOVAKIA
\ #
\ #
POLAND
\ #
Livada
Satu Mare
# \
^ # Uzhhorod
St
Stry # \
Dni e
\ #
Sighetu Marmaţiei
\ #
Dilove # Putna \
\ #
\ #
^ #
Siret
# \
\ #
Husyatyn
Dorohoi
UKRAINE
^ #
Khmelnytsky
Chernivtsi
Halych Buchach
TERNOPIL REGION
UKRAINE
\ #
Kalush
UKRAINE
r y Skole
\ #
\ #
Truskavets
\ # \ #
UKRAINE
Boryslav
\ #
Drohobych
c
\ #
^ # Vinnytsya
UKRAI
UKRAIN
33 3 33 3
Bran Castle A mass of turrets and castellations (p91)
Bucovina Painted monasteries with dazzling frescoes (p202)
Top Experiences ›
Medzhybizh
o
u
n
i ta
ur
# \
Botoşani # Bălţi ] # \ # \ Suceviţa Moisei Borşa # # \ \ # ] Suceava Debrecen Prislop Baia Mare ^ # # \ Ca Pass Gura Humorului rp Maramureş at SOUTHERN h Austerely beautiful wooden # \ i # Sculeni \ an BUCOVINA MOLDOVA MARAMUREŞ Vatra Dornei churches (p175) # Ungheni \ M \ # # Târgu \ # ] # \ # \ \ # Neamţ Târgu Dej Bistriţa Iaşi # Oradea Borş ] Frumos # CHIŞINĂU _ # Băile Felix \ # Zimbor \ # \ # \ # \ # Bicaz \ Piatra Sibiu Toplița Neamţ Roman Cluj-Napoca # Albiţa \ # Lacu Roşu \ Maze ofBekéscsaba cobbled streets and # ] # \ # Reghin \ Beiuş # \ Ceahlău \ # lustrous squares (p106) # Vaslui \ Gheorgheni Apuseni Massif Turda # \ Mountains # Bacău ] \ Târgu Chișineu- # CRIŞANA # ## \ Moineşti \ Danube Delta M ] # \ Mureş Odorheiu Criș # \ Arieşeni Gârda MOLDAVIA A vast expanse of Ineu de Sus Secuiesc # Miercurea Ciuc \ # \ remote wetland (p211) # Arad Oneşti Aiud \ Nădlac # \ # \ ^ # # Bârlad \ # Sighişoara Mediaş \ Lipova # \ Blaj s ROMANIA \ # # \ # \ Mure Banatško # \ # Adjud \ Biertan Alba Rupea # \ Arandelovo # \ Iulia TRANSYLVANIA # \ Sebeş Sfântu Mărăşeşti UKRAINE # # \ Timişoara Făgăraş Deva \ Gheorghe # \ # Tecuci \ # \ Sibiu Orăştie # \ \ # ^ # Olt Jimbolia # ] # \ # \ Poiana Braşov # Prejmer \ # Focşani \ Lugoj # \ Hunedoara # ] BANAT Vulcăneşti Râşnov \ Braşov \# # # \ Cindrel R Zărneşti \ # Voiteg \ \ Predeal # Galaţi # # ] Râmnicu Făgăraş Mountains # ] # \ # Caransebeş \ Bran # Petrila Lupeni \ Da Zrenjanin # Sărat \ # \ Moraviţa \ Petroşani # Sinaia \ n ub # Reşiiţa # \ Retezat Brăila ] # e Tulcea Curtea # \ Sulina # \ Mountains Măcin # \ Câmpulung # De Argeş # \ Vršac ] # \ Buzău # \ DANUBE Râmnicu # Anina \ Bucegi Horia Târgu Jiu # # \ Vâlcea \ Făurei # \ DELTA \ Mountains #
HUNGARY
^ # Miskolc
Carpathian Mountains Rugged plateaus and well-marked trails (p72)
Poprad
R
Ždiar Tatra Mountains Liptovský Kežmarok # \ # \ Mikulàš ] # Levoča
› Romania & Bulgaria
pane \ #
r ste
eş
Seret
u Pr
44 4
t
ns
res Mu
Naidăş
DrobetaTurnu Severin
# \
\ #
Filiaşi
\ #
Orjahovo
Montana
# \
\ # \ #
# \
Caracal
\ #
# \
Svishtov
# \ # \
Alexandria
\ #
Zimnicea
\ #
Turnu Măgurele
Roşiori # de Vede \
# \ \ #
# \ # ]
\ #
Ruse
Giurgiu
\ #
Razgrad
\ #
# \
\ #
e Danub Srebârna
Olteniţa
\ #
\ #
Hârşova
\ #
# \
# \
\ #
\ #
Emona
\ #
Negru Vodă
Mangalia Vama Veche Durankulak # \ # \ # \
Constanţa
Mamaia
# ]
# \
\ #
Sfântu Gheorghe
Balchik Kavarna \ \ # # # Albena \ \ Kaliakra Kaliakra Cape # # \ Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) \ ## Varna ] Sveti Konstantin
Dobrich
# \
Feteşti Călăraşi Silistra
\ #
Slobozia
Histria
Ciucurova
NORTHERN DOBROGEA
4
Srebârna
Lake
Urziceni
Brăneşti
Otopeni
Snagov
\ #
Ploieşti
# _
# ]
BUCHAREST
Tărgovişte
\ #
WALLACHIA
Slatina
\ #
Piteşti
Scorniceşti
Corabia
\ #
\ #
\ #
# ]
Goulyantsi Kneza Pleven
Bechet
\ #
Drăgăşani
Carpathian Mountains
# Craiova ]
Lom
# \
Belogradchik
Chiprovtsi
# \
#\ \ #
Vidin Calafat
# #\ Kladovo \
Băile Herculane
0
200m
300m
500m
1000m
1500m
2000m
M
2500m
\ #
Ü #
Melnik Home to fine wine since GREECE Thracian times (p334)
Petrich Rozhen # \ Monastery
Zlatograd \ #
Plovdiv Fun-loving, with restaurants, bars and galleries (p337)
GREECE
+ #
Smolyan
\ #
Kazanlâk Thracian tombs: splendour of the ancients (p383)
TURKEY
e #
0 0
100 km 50 miles
^ #
İstanbul
Veliko Târnovo Medieval capital offers antiquity and nightlife (p363)
# Ü # ] Popovo Byala Borovan \ # Shumen # Lopushanski Monastery \ Cherven # \ # ] # Berkovica \ Madara \ # Vratsa ] Targovishte # Bryag Veliko Lovech Vrachanski Balkan \ # \ # # ] #Ü # Mezdra Târnovo \ Veliki # \ Nature Park ÷ # # Arbanasi ] Rila Monastery # \ Cherepish Preslav Omurtag Dryanovo \ Byala # Bulgaria’s most storied Dimitrovgrad Monastery Troyan MonasteryÜ \ Elena # # Sta # ] # Kotel \ # spiritual treasure (p322) \ \ Tryavna # Gabrovo r aP \ Novi Iskâr # # Troyan Ü Sunny Beach c Shipka Pass lani Stara Planina na Monastery BLACK SEA # (Slânchev Bryag) \ \ Shipka # \ Aitos # # SOFIA Boyana _ \ # # Sliven \ \ \ # # # \ Nesebâr Pirin Mountains # # Pernik \ Karlovo \ Karnobat Vitosha Nature \ # # R÷ Novo Pomorie Kazanlâk Long ski seasons and # Park \ # # \ Hisar \ Zagora # Burgas ] Mt Vitosha Ihtiman \ # \ Yambol # Panagyurishte steep runs (p327) \ # Sozopol # ] (Hisarya) Stara Kyustendil # Ropotamo Nature Reserve \ # Samokov # \ BULGARIA Primorsko÷ # \ Zagora # Borovets \ \ # Pazardzhik Kiten # \ # # \ \ Tsarevo # \ Elhovo #Ü Chirpan Rila \ # Rila Monastery # ] Strandzha n ta u o Plovdiv in M \ # s Nature \ Sinemorets # # SKOPJE _ Topolovgrad Rila \ # # \ # \ Peshtera Park ÷ # Haskovo Blagoevgrad Velingrad # \ \ # Bansko Pi i M o p u do n Romania’s Black Sea Ro t ai r ns Devin MACEDONIA Beaches \ # \ Chepelare # \ # Gotse Something for everyone (p217) # \ Ormenio # ELEVATION Delchev \ \ Pamporovo # \ # Kârdzhali Dospat Melnik
Sofia Majestic Aleksander Nevski Memorial Church (p303)
SERBIA
# \
# Orşova \
Bucharest Palace of Parliament – modern and mind-blowing (p31)
# \
in
s ain nt ou
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author’s top recommendation
A green or sustainable option
No payment required
BUCHAREST��������������� 30 AROUND BUCHAREST��������53 Snagov�����������������������������������53
WALLACHIA ��������������� 56 Ploieşti�����������������������������������58 Târgovişte �����������������������������60 Piteşti�������������������������������������62 Curtea de Argeş�������������������64 Craiova�����������������������������������66 Drobeta-Turnu Severin �������69
TRANSYLVANIA����������72 PRAHOVA VALLEY���������������� 73 Sinaia������������������������������������� 73 Bucegi Mountains ��������������� 79 Predeal����������������������������������� 81 BRAŞOV����������������������������������82 AROUND BRAŞOV����������������90 Bran ���������������������������������������90 Poiana Braşov�����������������������92 Râşnov�����������������������������������93 Zărneşti���������������������������������93 Măgura�����������������������������������94 Piatra Craiului National Park �����������������������95 North of Braşov �������������������95 SAXON LAND ������������������������95 Sighişoara�����������������������������96 Fortified Saxon Churches������������������������������101 Făgăraş Mountains�������������104 Sibiu�������������������������������������106 Around Sibiu������������������������113 SZÉKELY LAND���������������������115
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
On the Road Sfântu Gheorghe ����������������116 Spa Towns����������������������������116 Miercurea Ciuc�������������������� 117 Gheorgheni��������������������������119 Odorheiu Secuiesc��������������119 Odorheiu Secuiesc to Târgu Mureş ������������������������121 Târgu Mureş ������������������������121 SOUTHWEST TRANSYLVANIA������������������ 126 Alba Iulia ����������������������������� 126 Deva������������������������������������� 129 Hunedoara����������������������������131 Retezat Mountains��������������131 NORTHERN TRANSYLVANIA������������������ 133 Cluj-Napoca ����������������������� 133 Turda �����������������������������������140 Huedin Microregion (Kalotaszeg)������������������������141 Apuseni Mountains (North)��������������������������������� 142 Cluj-Napoca to Bistriţa����� 143 Bistriţa��������������������������������� 143 Bârgău Valley ��������������������� 145
CRIŞANA & BANAT ������������������������147
MARAMUREŞ ����������� 164 BLACK SEA COAST & Baia Mare ��������������������������� 166 Around Baia Mare ������������� 169 Ţara Chioarului������������������� 170 Sighetu Marmaţiei������������� 170 Mara Valley ��������������������������174 Izei Valley������������������������������177 Vişeu & Vaser Valleys ��������178 Prislop Pass �����������������������180
MOLDAVIA & THE BUCOVINA MONASTERIES���������� 181 SOUTHERN MOLDAVIA������ 183 Iaşi ��������������������������������������� 183 Around Iaşi ��������������������������191 Piatra Neamţ����������������������� 192 Bicaz & the Ceahlău Massif����������������������������������� 196 Bicaz Gorges & Lacu Roşu��������������������������� 197 SOUTHERN BUCOVINA������198 Suceava������������������������������� 198 Bucovina Monasteries������ 202 Câmpulung Moldovenesc�����������������������207 Rarău Massif�����������������������207
BANAT���������������������������������� 149 Timişoara����������������������������� 149
THE DANUBE DELTA & BLACK CRIŞANA������������������������������ 155 SEA COAST���������������209
Oradea��������������������������������� 155 Băile Felix���������������������������� 158 Arieşeni & Gârda de Sus���160 Arad �������������������������������������160
DANUBE DELTA �������������������211 Tulcea����������������������������������� 212 Sulina ��������������������������������� 215 Sfântu Gheorghe ��������������� 216
LITTORAL ���������������������������� 217 Constanţa ����������������������������217 Mamaia �������������������������������223 Vama Veche�������������������������225
Romania ^ # Uzhhorod
Livada
# \
# \
Sighetu Marmaţiei
# \
Satu Mare
Moisei
# \
# \
Baia Mare
^ #
Karcag
c
Debrecen
Prislop Pass
# ]
Borş # \
Oradea
# \
# ]
\ #
Băile Felix
Zimbor \ #
HUNGARY ChișineuCriș # \
Szeged
^ #
Arad
Jimbolia
# \
# \
Lugoj
Caransebeş
Hunedoara
nav ) Du nube (Da
÷ #
# \
# \ # \
Lupeni
Retezat National Park
# \
Mediaş
# \
Biertan
Sebeş Făgăraş
Sibiu
# \
# ]
Petrila # \
# \
Cindrel R
Petroşani
Făgaraş Mountains
Râmnicu Vâlcea \ #
Târgu Jiu \ #
Curtea De Argeş
Piteşti
# \ # \
DrobetaTurnu Severin
# Drăgăşani \
# \
# \
Carpathia n Mountains
# Băile Herculane \
Orşova
Blaj
Ucea
Retezat Mountains
Anina
Târnave plateau wine region Sighişoara
Orâştie
# \
# Moraviţa ]
# \
# \
Banat # Reşiţa \
# _
Aiud
# \
# Deva \
# \
Belgrade
Mureş
Alba Iulia \ #
Timişoara
# \
# Târgu ]
# \
# \
^ #
Voiteg \ #
# \
Turda
Albac Transylvania
# \
Reghin
# ]
Apuseni Mountains # # Gârda de Sus \ Arieşeni \
Mure ş
Lipova
Bistriţa
# \
# Ineu \ Crişana
# \
# \
ClujNapoca
Beiuş
^ #
# \
Nădlac
Dej
# ]
# \
Scorniceşti
# \
Filiaşi # \
Slatina
# Craiova ]
SERBIA
Roşiori de Vede
Caracal
# \
# \
Kraljevo
Calafat
# ]
# \
Wallachia
Turnu
Bechet Măgurele # \ # Du Corabia \ # \ nav (D a n u b e)
Niš
^ #
# \
# ]
Pleven
# \
0 e #0
100 miles
200 km
# Chernivtsi ^
# \ # Putna \
Dorohoi
\ #
Siret
Botoşani
Suceviţa
# \
ar
# \
Suceava
p
Cotnari wine region
at hi
an
Bicaz # \
nt
# \
# \
Piatra Neamţ
# \
# \
# ]
Moineşti
Codlea
# \
# ]
# \
# \
Sfântu Gheorghe
Prejmer
Odobeşti wine region # \
Câmpulung # \
Câmpina
# \
# \
# \
# \
Bârlad
# \
Tecuci
Focşani
Galaţi Râmnicu Sărat
# ]
Brăila ] #
Snagov
# \ # \
Otopeni
# Bucharest _
Horia
# \
Hârşova
Urziceni
# \
Ialo miţ a
# \
Slobozia
# \
Histria
# \
Brăneşti
# \
Feteşti # \
# Olteniţa \ # Giurgiu \
# \
Silistra Negru Vodă # \
Zimnicea # \
BULGARIA
Mamaia
# Constanţa ]
# \
# \
# \
# \
Ciucurova
Călăraşi Alexandria
# Sulina \
# \
Ploieşti
Găeşti
# \
Tulcea
# \
Făurei
# ]
# \
Măcin
Buzău
# \
Bucegi Mountains
# \
Adjud
# Mărăşeşti \
Sinaia
Târgovişte
Vaslui
Bacău
Miercurea Ciuc
Braşov
Pucioasa
# ]
Tiraspol
Albiţa
# \
Olt # \
# \
# _
# Moldavia Oneşti \
Rupea
Zărneşti
Chişinău
Roman
# \
Odorheiu Secuiesc
# \
# \
# \
ns
Ceahlău Massif
# \
Ungheni
ai
Gheorgheni
# \
# ]
Iaşi
ou
# \
# \
# \
M
Topliţa
MOLDOVA
Târgu Sculeni \ # Frumos
Târgu # Neamţ \
Bălţi
Prut
C
# \
Vatra Dornei
# ]
# \
# ]
Gura Humorului
# \ \ #
Mangalia Vama Veche
Sfântu Gheorghe
# \
24
Itineraries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide the starting point for a trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
UKRAINE HUNGARY MOLDOVA
ROMANIA Sighişoara
• # • #
• #
Bucegi Mountains É
SERBIA
É
É
É
• # Braşov Râșnov • # # Poiana Braşov #• Bran• R• # Sinaia
Transfăgărăşan • # Road Curtea de Argeş
É
Viscri
# Sibiu •
• # BUCHAREST _ #
Black Sea BULGARIA
10 Days
Classic Romania This classic route for travellers wanting a taste of Transylvania starts in the capital, Bucharest, where most flights arrive. Hire a car at Bucharest or hop a train northward toward the mountains, stopping in Sinaia for a couple of nights and checking out Peleş Castle. From there, take a cable car up into the Bucegi Mountains for hiking or biking. Drive or bus north for a couple of nights in Braşov, a lively hub with a cobbled centre. Take day trips to the infamous ‘Dracula’s Castle’ at Bran and another stunner at Râşnov, with the option of skiing and hiking at nearby Poiana Braşov. If you have a car, spend a night in Viscri before continuing on for a night in Sighişoara, where the dramatic citadel offers B&Bs, espresso and Dracula’s birthplace. From here, head southwest for a night or two in Sibiu. If you have a car (and it’s summer), drive south along the breathtaking Transfăgărăşan Road, which tackles the biggest of the Carpathians. South of the pass, stop at the ‘real Drac ula’s castle’ of Poienari Citadel outside Curtea de Argeş before returning to Bucharest.
25 Suceviţa Monastery Bucovina painted • # monasteries Moldoviţa • # # Monastery • • #Suceava • # Humor Monastery
É
É
É
• # Neamţ
É
É
Monastery • # Târgu Neamţ
É
# Piatra Neamţ •
• # Cluj-
• #
Iaşi É
É
• #
Văratec Monastery
MOLDOVA
É
É
Napoca
É
UKRAINE
• # Viscri
É
É
É • # Sibiu
ROMANIA
Sighişoara
• #
• #
É
• #
É
Biertan
• # Braşov
Bran Castle Tulcea • #
É # Sulina •
É
É
# Sfântu Gheorghe •
7–10 Days
10–14 Days
This tour starts in Tulcea, the gate way to the delta, though it could be done in reverse, beginning in Suceava. If you’re arriving in Bucha rest, take the bus or drive (3 to 4 hours) to Tulcea. If you’ve only got a day or two for the delta, stay overnight in Tulcea and enter the delta via boating day trips. If you’ve got a few days or longer, skip Tulcea and grab a pas senger ferry to deeper, more scenic destina tions such as Sulina or Sfântu Gheorghe. After getting your birdwatching and boat ing on, return to Tulcea and take the bus or drive north to Iaşi, Moldavia’s largest city. Spend a day taking in the sights. Use Iaşi as a base to explore the Agapia, Văratec and Neamţ monasteries or head west and settle in at Piatra Neamţ or Târgu Neamţ. From here, it’s a short hop to Suceava, a good base for exploring the Bucovina painted monasteries. Highlights include the Voroneţ, Humor, Moldoviţa and Suceviţa monasteries. Accessing the mon asteries is tricky without a car. If travelling by public transport, allow a couple of extra days.
If you’re coming to Romania to get a taste of small-town life, this tour is for you. Braşov makes a good base; if you’re starting from Bucharest, take the train north on arrival. Spend at least a day or two in Braşov, and use it as a base for exploring Bran Castle and amazing forti fied churches such as the one in Viscri. From here, head north to the Unesco- protected town of Sighişoara and its historic citadel. Spend the night before heading south to the former Saxon stronghold of Sibiu. If you’ve got your own wheels, make a detour to take in another gorgeous village at Biertan. Sibiu is one of the liveliest cities in Romania, and well worth a couple of nights. From here, you’ll have to backtrack to wards Sighişoara or head north through Cluj-Napoca. If you’ve got the time, this is another lively metropolis that merits at least a night. From here push northward to Baia Mare or to Sighetu Marmaţiei, bases for further exploration of Maramureş. Don’t miss the Merry Cemetery near Săpânţa. From Sighetu Marmaţiei, it’s just a short hop to the pretty villages of Budeşti, Surdeşti and Ieud.
Danube Delta & Monasteries
Transylvania & Maramureş
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
# Agapia Monastery •
É
• #
Voroneţ Monastery
É
• #
Baia Surdeşti Mare
Danube Delta & Monasteries Transylvania & Maramureş
É
É
Săpânţa Sighetu • # É • # Marmaţiei Budeşti• # • # Ieud • #
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author’s top recommendation
A green or sustainable option
No payment required
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
On the Road SOFIA �����������������������294 Tryavna��������������������������������� 374 Balchik ������������������������������� 421 AROUND SOFIA������������������ 315 Boyana ������������������������������� 315 Vitosha Nature Park ��������� 316
PLOVDIV & THE SOUTHERN MOUNTAINS������������� 319 RILA MOUNTAINS ������������ 321 Rila Village ������������������������� 321 Rila Monastery�������������������322 Around Rila Monastery�����324 Borovets �����������������������������325 PIRIN MOUNTAINS�����������327 Blagoevgrad �����������������������328 Bansko ������������������������������ 330 Melnik �������������������������������� 334 Rozhen Monastery�������������337 BULGARIAN THRACE�������337 Plovdiv ���������������������������������337 Around Plovdiv������������������ 349 RODOPI MOUNTAINS������ 350 Chepelare �������������������������� 350 Pamporovo �������������������������352 Smolyan �����������������������������353 Devin �����������������������������������354
VELIKO TÂRNOVO & CENTRAL MOUNTAINS������������� 357 Shumen �����������������������������359 Madara �������������������������������362 Veliko Târnovo ������������������ 363 Around Veliko Târnovo�������372 Dryanovo Monastery��������� 374
Etâr �������������������������������������376 Lovech ��������������������������������� 377 Troyan ���������������������������������378 Troyan Monastery ������������ 380 Hisar ����������������������������������� 381 Karlovo ������������������������������� 381 Kazanlâk ���������������������������� 383 Shipka ���������������������������������387 Stara Zagora ���������������������387 Sliven ���������������������������������� 390
BLACK SEA COAST �����������������������393 SOUTHERN COAST�����������395 Burgas ���������������������������������395 Burgas Lakes �������������������� 399 Sozopol ������������������������������ 400 Ropotamo Nature Reserve ������������������������������ 404 Primorsko �������������������������� 404 Kiten ���������������������������������� 405 Tsarevo ������������������������������ 405 Strandzha Nature Park ������������������������������������ 406 Sinemorets ������������������������ 406 CENTRAL COAST���������������407 Pomorie �����������������������������407 Nesebâr �����������������������������407 Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag) ��������������411 NORTHERN COAST����������� 412 Varna ����������������������������������� 412 Sveti Konstantin ��������������� 419 Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) �������������� 420
Kavarna �������������������������������423 Kaliakra Cape���������������������424
THE DANUBE & NORTHERN PLAINS����������������������425 Vratsa ���������������������������������427 Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park������������������������ 428 Montana ���������������������������� 428 Lopushanski Monastery�� 428 Chiprovtsi �������������������������� 428 Belogradchik �������������������� 429 Vidin ���������������������������������� 430 Cherepish Monastery ������� 431 Pleven ��������������������������������� 431 Ruse �������������������������������������432 Rusenski Lom Nature Park �����������������������437 Lake Srebârna & Around�������������������������������� 438 Silistra �������������������������������� 439
Bulgaria
# ]
# \
# \
ROMANIA
Craiova # ]
t Ol
E79 · /
+ # # Vidin \
# \
Calafat
# \
· / E761
# \
+ #
# \
Belogradchik # \
E79 / ·
# \ # \
# \
Pleven
Kneza
] Cherven #
# ]
# Vratsa ]
Berkovica
# \
Mezdra Teteven
# \
Kalotina
Svoge
Anton
Pirdop
Novi Iskâr
Troyan
Sopot
# \
#\ \ #
# \
# \
# \
E75 · /
Koprivshtitsa
# Sofia _
Kyustendil
E871 · / # \
# \
# \
Gyueshevo
Rila
# Avramovo \
+ #
# \
E79 · /
+ #
# \
Petrich # \
# \
Batak
Chepelare # \
# \ # \
# \
Pirin National Park
Shiroka Lûka Pamporovo # \
Dospat
# \
Smolyan
# \
Melnik # \
# \
Gotse Delchev
Promahonas
# \
Exohi
GREECE
Drama # ]
# ]
Kavadarci # ]
Serres # \
Bachkovo Ú # Monastery
# \
Devin
Dobrinishte
# \
Zlatarevo
R
# \
Bansko # \
Sandanski
# \
Peshtera
Velingrad
÷# # ÷
# Štip ]
# ]
Asenovgrad
Blagoevgrad
# \
Plovdiv
Borovets
Dupnitsa # \
# Brezovo \
# \
# \
Karlovo
Hisar # \ (Hisarya)
Panagyurishte Boyana \ # # \ Pernik \ Mt # R Vitosha # \ Ihtiman Rila Monastery Kostenets Samokov # \ Ú # Pazardzhik # \
# \
c
# ]
# \
# \
Levski
Lovech
Bryag
Pirot
+ #
# \
# ]
Borovan
Chiprovtsi # \
\ #
Montana
# \
Cherkovitsa Svishtov
# \
Goulyantsi
# \
Orjahovo
Lom
0 e # 0
# Bucharest _
# \
50 miles
100 km
Călăraşi
e
#
# \
Silistra
Mangalia \ # # Vama Veche \
# \
Srebârna
be nu Da
# \
Tutrakan
Durankulak Emona # Dobrich \
# Ruse ]
# \
# \
Balchik
# \
# \
Kavarna
# Albena \
# \
# \
# \
Popovo \ #
# \
Byala
Targovishte # \
Veliko Târnovo \ # E772 · /
# ]
# \
# \
Omurtag
# \
Devnya
Veliki Preslav
# \
Byala
# \
# Kotel \
Aitos
# \
# \
Katunishte
Elena
Tryavna
# \ Madara Shumen
Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag)
Arbanasi # \
\ #
Kaliakra Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi) Varna \ # # ] Sveti Konstantin # \
Razgrad
# \
# \ # \
\ Sliven #
# \
# \
\ #
Kazanlâk
# \
Pomorie
Karnobat Burgas ] #
# \
Gabrovo c Shipka Pass # Shipka \
Nesebâr
Sozopol Primorsko
Yambol
# \
Novo Zagora
\ # # \
Sredets
Kiten
Sinemorets
Zagora
# \
Elhovo
Chirpan
# \
+ #
Topolovgrad
E87 / ·
# \
Dimitrovgrad
# \
Harmanli
# \
# \
Haskovo
Tsarevo # \
# Stara ]
# \
# \
Kırklareli
· / E80
Svilengrad # \
# \
+ #
T
Ormenio
# \
Ardino
Kârdzhali
# \
Zlatograd
# \
# \
Keşan \ #
Tekirdağ
28 8
Itineraries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide the starting point for a trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
ROMANIA
SERBIA BULGARIA Nesebâr • #
É
É
• # Burgas É
É
É
É
£ #
É
_ #
É
SOFIA
É
Black Sea
• # Sozopol
• # Rila Monastery
MACEDONIA TURKEY GREECE
Two Weeks
From Sofia to the Coast Start off with a few days in the capital, Sofia, taking time to visit a couple of the fascinating museums, galleries and churches. From Sofia, you can take a day trip out to the beautiful Rila Monastery, Bulgaria’s most important pilgrimage site and one of the country’s real highlights. Take the bus – or train, if you prefer – from Sofia to Burgas on the southern Black Sea coast. Spend at least one night in this laid-back city, and take a stroll through the lovely Maritime Park down to the beach. Take the bus for the short trip southwards along the coast to the ancient town of Sozopol, with its quaint cobbled lanes and attractive sandy beaches. Spend three or four days here, relaxing by the seaside, sampling the fresh local seafood and maybe enjoying one of the free outdoor concerts or a yacht trip around the peninsula. If you’re here in summer, catch the ferry up to Nesebâr, famed for its numerous medieval churches, and spend the day sightseeing. Return to Burgas to get the bus or train back to Sofia.
289
ROMANIA
• # Silistra
É
É
• # Ruse
÷ Rusenski Lom # Nature Park
É
• # • # Vratsa
• # Varna
• #Veliko
É
SERBIA
Târnovo
É
Shipka Pass • #
_ SOFIA #
# Karlovo •
É
# Hisar (Hisarya) •
• # Shipka • # Kazanlâk
Black Sea
É
BULGARIA
É
É
É
• # Plovdiv
É
Bansko
• #Bachkovo
• #
Monastery
É
MACEDONIA
# • # •
Melnik
Rozhen Monastery
TURKEY Along the Danube to the Sea Southern & Central Bulgaria
GREECE
Two Weeks
Three Weeks
From Sofia, head north by bus to the little town of Vratsa, where you can spend a couple of days walking in the mountains or visiting the interest ing museums. From here, travel by bus to Pleven where you can pick up another bus to Ruse, for your first glimpse of the mighty Danube. One of Bulgaria’s most elegant and appealing cities, Ruse is known for its grand Viennese-style architecture and boasts sev eral diverting museums, extensive parkland and a lively cafe scene. Spend three or four days in Ruse, taking a day trip south of the city to the Rusenski Lom Nature Park to visit the remarkable rock churches and caves, and maybe spot some of the rare local wildlife. From Ruse head eastwards to Silistra, a quiet town on the Danube, for a relaxing day or two before continuing to the Black Sea coast at Varna. You could easily spend several days in Bulgaria’s ‘maritime capital’. Relax on the long, sandy city beach, enjoy a show or concert at one of the city’s many cultural venues, or go clubbing along the vi brant seafront.
From Sofia, catch a bus south to tranquil Melnik, famous for its wine, chalky ‘pyramids’ and National Revival–era mansions. Soak up the sunshine for a couple of days and visit his toric Rozhen Monastery nearby. Continue by bus to Bansko, for two or three days of summer hikes or winter skiing. From Bansko, take the train as it mean ders on a narrow-gauge rail through moun tainous forests before reaching Septemvri, on the main line to Plovdiv; this city boasts a sublime old town with clustered, classic architecture, ancient sites, art galleries and cafes – it deserves three or four days, espe cially if you’ll also visit nearby Bachkovo Monastery. Head north to Hisar, famous since antiquity for its healing waters. Continue to quiet Karlovo for more tra ditional ambience before visiting Kazanlâk, famous for its ancient Thracian Tomb. Cross the mountains at the gorgeous Shipka Pass, stopping first in Shipka village, to see its gleaming, golden onion-domed church. Finally, unwind for a few days in Veliko Târnovo, Bulgaria’s medieval capi tal. In the shadow of its impressive fortress, this university city offers elegant eating and vivacious nightlife.
Along the Danube to the Sea
Southern & Central Bulgaria
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
Pleven
É
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’