BUITDING

Continuing to the finishing i juice, nutmeg, and white PePPer. to texture, although the butter in is used for both texture and flavo mered vealare a ctassic marriage of ftavors that

workwelltogether in many dishes' However'

make the dish ctoying' The too much richness, combined with the mildness of the vea[, could

has been used.

combine to lf the d¡sh is welt composed, atl of these flavors, primary and supporting, vealbtanquette. of form a complex but unified whole we identify as the taste

General Concepts in Flavor Buitding some

discussed suggests There are no fixed rules for combining flavors, but the example iust following general principles. When you are developing or modifying a recipe, think about the

points.

and then think Every ingredientshould have a purpose. startwith the main ingredients, you need. just ingredients the aboutwhat witlworkwith them. Continue to buitd the flavor, using above' example the tngredients can worktogether by harmonizing or by contrasting,ln

tartness of the the rich taste of the [iaison and the mitd taste of the veaI harmonize' The lemon, on the other hand, contrasts with the cream'

Whentwoingredientscontrost,besuretheybalonce.Forexample,addiustenough

the flavors in an individuaI recipe do.

SIMPLICITY AND COMPLEXITY ingredients is simpler is usuatly better. some cooks mistakenty thinkthat adding more

the harder you have to always preferabte to adding fewer. But the more flavors you combine, you the more you have have, flavors competing more the work to balance them alt. Further, [ost. aren't ingredients main the of to take care that the primary flavors orthe components This istruewhetheryou are planningthe ingredients in a singte recipe you have a meat plate. when on a things put many too to on a plate. some cooks are tempted garnishes additional with starches, and fourvegetabtes item perched on layers ofthree or confused a is often iumble' and two or three sauces, the resutt better. Classic dishes from It would be inconect, howevel, to say that simpler is always

not impossibte, to taste each of the individuatspices'

CLASSIC FLAVOR PROFILES

toget rtd as s that been

lace to start is to studY cuisine Passed down to me' We know the flavor cades or even centuries'

FTAVOR

CHAPTER 4 BASIC PRINCIPLES OF COOKING AND FOOD SCIENCE We have atready seen some classic flavor combinations in our discussion of veat blanquette. The combination of white meat, cream, lemon, and a hint of nutmeg is a quartet of flavors you witl find repeatedty in classic and regional dishes.

CI.ASSIC FTAVORING

COMBINATIONS These are just a few ofthe many tradi-

tional flavoring combinations from around the world. Keep in mind that, although only one or two combinations are given for each country or region mentioned, they are not the only combinations used there. These are merely

study classic dishes. For chefs who want to create their own dishes, studying classic recipes is a good place to sta rt.

Seasoning and Flavoring lngredients

examples to stimulate your thinking. Sour cream, paprika, caraway

precedingdiscussi

sthatadd flavorto orchange

rema

(Hungary) Sour cream or mustard,

The

the flavor of a dish. Th ingredients. The well as common flavor

dill

(Scandinavia)

i;#ii"."titi"ïi:iïl mustard.

Carawa¡ onion, vinegar (Germany) Apples, apple cider or apple

brand¡

cream (France-Normandy) Shallot, garlic, parsley

(France-Burgundy)

between seasoning and flavoring. Seasoning means enhancing the natural ftavor of a food

Tomato, basil, olive oil (ltaly)

Olive oil, garlic, anchovy (ltaly) Lemon, oregano (Greece)

Cinnamon, nuts, honey (eastern and southern Mediterranean, Middle East) Ginger, onion, garlic (lndia) Fish sauce (nam pla), lemongrass,

Season i ng 1. The most important time for seasoning liquid foods is at the end of the cooking

chiles (Thailand)

process.

Ginger, soy sauce flapan) Soy sauce, sake or

The last step in most recipes, whether written or not, is ,,adjust the seasoning." This means you have to first taste and evaluate the product. Then you must decide

mirin, dried

bonito (fapan)

what shoutd be done, if anything, to improve the taste. often, a rittte satt in a stew or a dash of fresh lemon juice in a sauce is enough. The ability to evaluate and correct flavors takes experience, and it is one ofthe most important skiils a cook can develop.

Ginger, garlic, scallion (China)

2. salt and other seasonings

are also added at the beginning of cooking, particularly for larger pieces of food, when seasonings added at the end would not be absorbed or btended in but just sit on the surface.

3' Addingsome ofthe seasoningduringthe

cooking process aids in evaluatingthe flavor

atong the way.

4.

Do not add much seasoning if is reduced.

itwill

be concentrated during cooking, as when a liquid

Flavorin g Flavoring ingredients can be added at the beginning, middte, or end, depending on the cooking

time, the cooking process, and the ftavoring ingredient.

BUITDING FLAVOR 1. onty a few flavorings can be added successfulty at the end of cooking. These include prepared mustard fresh (not dried) herbs, sherry or ftamed brandy, and condiments tike and Worcestershire sauce. 2. Most flavorings need heat to release their flavors and time for the flavors to btend' quickty and thus don't Whole spicestake longest. Ground spices release flavors more require as long a cooking time. 3. Too much cooking results in loss of flavor. Most flavors, whether in spices or in main volotile,which means they evaporate when heated. That is why you

ingredients,

are

can smelt food cooking.

we can conclude that herbs and spices should cook with the foods long enough to

short, you release their flavors but not so long that their ftavors are [ost. lf cooking times are lf cooking can generalty add spices and herbs at the beginning or middle of cooking time' time' cooking of times are tong, it is usuatly better to add them in the middte or toward the end minutes 30 ffofe: Food safety experts recommend adding dried spices and herbs at least before the end of cooking so any microorganisms they might carry are destroyed.

Common Seasoning and Ftavoring Ingred¡ents (as when crumbled bacon is Any food product can be used as a flavoring ingredient, even meat are complex added to sautéed potatoes or diced ham is included in a mirepoix)' sauces, which

preparations containing many flavoring ingredients, are themsetves used as ftavorings for meat, fish, vegetables, and desserts' cannot treat alt possibte flavoring ingredients here, but we discuss some of

We obviously important. A survey of herbs and spices is provided in Table 4.1. lngredients used most the primarity in the bakeshop are discussed in Chapter 29'

4.1 Herbs and SPices Mnnrrr Fonms Pnooucr

Table

DrscntPTtoN

Exlmpl¡s or Usr

Attspice

Whole, ground

Smallbrown berry; flavor resembles blend ofcinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg

Sausages and braised meats, poached

Anise seed

Whole, ground

Smatl seed; licorice flavor

Cookies, pastries, breads

Basil

Crushed leaves

Aromatic leaf; member of mint family

Tomatoes and tomato dishes, Pesto (ltatian basil sauce), egg dishes, [amb

fish, stewed fruits, Pies, Puddings

chops, eggplant, Peas, squash Bay

leaf

Caraway seed

Whole

Stiff, dark green, oblong leaves; pungent ar0ma

One of the most imPortant herbs for stocks, sauces, stews, braised meats

Whole

Dark brown, curved seeds; familiar rye

Rye bread, cabbage, sauerkraut, Pork, cheese spreads, Eastern European dishes

bread seasoning Cardamom

Whole pod, ground seed

Tiny brown seeds inside white or green pod; sweet and aromatic; exPensive

Pickting, Danish Pastries, curries

Cayenne (red pepper)

Ground

Ground form of hot red chile;looks [ike paprika but is extremetY hot

ln smatl amounts in many sauces' soups' meat, fish, egg, and cheese dishes (see p.88)

Celery seed

Whote, ground, ground mixed

Tiny brown seeds with strong

with salt

celery flavor

Salads, coleslaw, salad dressings, tomato products

CherviI

Crushed leaves

Herb with mitd flavor of ParsleY and tarragon

Soups, salads, sauces, egg and cheese dishes

Chili powder

Ground blend

Blend of spices including cumin, chiles, oregano, garlic

Chiti and other Mexican dishes, egg dishes, appetizers, ground meat

Chive

Fresh, dried, frozen

Grasslike herb with onion flavor

Salads, egg and cheese dishes, fish, soups

Cilantro (fresh coriander, Chinese parsley)

Fresh leaves

The plant that produces coriander

Widety used in Asian and Southwestern

seeds; delicate texture; assertive, herbaceous aroma and flavor; leaves resemble flat parsley

cooking and in dishes with various ethnic influences

CHAPTER 4 BASIC PRINCIPLES OF COOKING AND FOOD SCIENCE

4.1 Herbs and Spices (continued) Pnooucr Mlnx¡r Fonrns

Table

D¡scntprtor{

Extmpl¡s o¡ Us¡

Cinnamon

Sticks, ground

Aromatic bark olcinnamon or cassia tree

Pastries, breads, desserts, cooked fruits, ham, sweet potatoes, hot beverages

Clove

Whote, ground

Dried flower buds ofa tropical tree; pungent, sweet flavor

Whole: marinades, stocks, sauces, braised meats, ham, pickting; Ground: cakes, pastries, fruits

Whole, ground

Round, light brown, hollow seed, slightly sweet, musty flavor

Coria

n

der

Cumin seed

Whole, ground

:

i curry p'wder

Ground

Pickting, sausage, pork, curried dishes, ngerbread

gi

Small seed resembling carawa¡ but lighter in color

btend

i

lngredient of curry and chili powders, sausages and meats, egg and cheese dishes eggs, vegetabres, rìsh,

î,iî,Ïil:jåi,i:;1,',.; äîJg1îjflï' :;Ji::ÍJ:t.'' brands vary sreatr', ilitilil;lfii.üpper; Herb and seed with familiardi[ pickle flavor; Seed: pickting, sauerkraut,

: Ditl Crushed leaves soups; alled ditt weed), seed is more prngéniinån the herb herb: salads, cheese dishes, fìsh and ii fwhote seed sheltfish, some vegetiUìài-. i Epazote Fresh and dried leaves A pungent herb with coarse-textured leaves used in Mexican cooking; often cooked with beans i i Fennel whole seed Greenish-brown seeds similar in flavor ltalian sausage, tomato sauce, fish to anise, but larger in size : Fresh: whole butbs; i Garlic Strong, aromatic memberof onion family; Widevarietyof foods ¿ried: granurated, powder, fresh Ëutbs lorpór.J oi,any sma¡ croves i and mixed with salt i r i whole, grou nd lso fres h Light rown, knob by root of nger pla nt ked good d desserts, fru its, and candied orcrystallized) i curr¡ed?ishes, ¡ra¡seJmeïts; fresh in : Chinese and otherAsian dishes i Juniper berry Whole Slightly soft, purpte berries with piney flavor; Marinades, game dishes, sauerkraut principal flavoringofgin j: Lemongrass Fresh sta lks tropica grass with a stightly lbous base used in south east Asia n ishes d and an aroma of lemon . dishes influenced byAsian cuisine : Mace Whole (blade), ground Orange outer covering of nutmeg; similar flavor, Baked-goods, desserts, fruits, sausages, but milder pork, fiih, spinach, sqúast,ãtf,.r' : vegetables i Marioram crushed leaves Gray-green herb with pleasant aroma and pâtés and ground meats, braised meats, ii :lightty minty fla ror, similar to oregano, sauces, roãst lamb, pouúry anJ poultry but much milder stufflngs i lVtint Leaves familiar cool flavor; d fruit beverages, i rmint and peppermint oes i Mustard seed Whole, ground (also in white oryellow and hes, pickling, meats, prepared mustard; see p. gg) rown is stronger i i Nutmeg whole, ground sweet, aromatic kernel of nutmeg fruit soups, cream sauces, chicken, veal, manyvegetables (spinach, mushrooms, ! . squash, potatoes), desserts, custards, breads, pastries i i orega no Leaves, grou d ngent rb known as the "pizza herb" lta n d Mexica n hes, mato products ii Paprika Ground Ground form ofa dried, sweet red chile. Spanish: used (oroverused) primarityas variety is brighter in color, mild in garnish on light-colored foods; :panish ' -

Gi

nge

(a

gi

b

Ba

san

:

A

I

bu

d

an

i

n

i

-

I

:

i

:

n

:

i i

I

Pu

he

flavor; Hungarian is darkerand more

I

pungent

ia

an

d is

to

Hungarian: góutash, braised meats and

poultry sauces , i Parsley Fresh: whole sprigs, in Most widely used herb; dark green curly or Almost all foods ¡unches; dried: iñ frakes flat reaves with ¿eiiiaiË, sweet navor i i Pepper,black Whole(peppercorns); ground Small blackorcreamywhitehardberry; Mostwidelyusedspice(seep.g/) ¡ ::1.yll: ...llf,medium,o',ouirã pungentfravorandaioma

FTAVOR

BUILDING

Mlnr¡r tonns

Pnooucr

D¡scntPT¡ol{

Exlwrpr-¡s or Us¡

Pepper, red

(see Cayenne)

Peppercorn, pink

Whole

Bright pink dried seed or berry; pungent, floral taste; unrelated to black pepper

Limited uses in meat, poultry and flsh dishes; sauce garnish; used in peppercorn mixtures

Poppy seed

Whole

Tiny btue-btack seeds with faint but

Garnish for breads and rolls, buttered noodles; ground: in pastry fìltings

distinctive flavor Rosemary

Whole

Light green leaves resembling pine needles

Lamb, braised meats and poultry soups' tomato and meat sauces

Saffron

Whote (thread)

ofsaffron crocus; gives bright yellow color to foods; mild, distinctive flavor;

Steeped in hot liquid before use; rice dishes, poultry seafood, bouitlabaisse' baked goods

Red stigma

very expensive

Pork, pouttry, stuffings, sausage, beans,

Sage

Whole, rubbed (finer consistency than whole Ieaves), ground

Pungent gray-green herb with fuzzy leaves

Savory

Crushed Ieaves

Fragrant herb of mint family; summer savory is preferred to winter

Many meat, poultry, fish, egg, and vegetabIe dishes

Sesame seed

Whole (hulled or unhulled)

Smatlyetlowish seed with nutlike taste; familiar hamburger bun garnish; high oil content

Bread and roll garnish

Sichuan peppercorn

Whole

Brown seed pod, usualty partialty opened;

Spicy meat and pouttry dishes

tomatoes

spicy, pepperyflavor, but unrelated to black peppercofns Whole or broken

Dried, star-shaped seed pod with an anisetike ftavor (but unrelated to anise) but more aromatic

Braised Chinese dishes

Tarragon

Crushed leaves

Delicate green herb with flavor both minty and licoricelike

Béarnaise sauce, tarragon vinegar, chicken, fish, salads and dressings, eggs

Thym e

Crushed [eaves, ground

Tiny brownish-green leaves; very aromatic

One of the most important and versatite ofherbs; stocks, soups, sauces, meats,

Sta

ntSe

poultry tomatoes Ground

Turm eflc

lntense yellow root of ginger famity; mild but distinctive pePPery flavor

A basic ingredient of curry Powder;

pickles, relishes, salads, eggs, rice

1. Solt is the most important seasoning ingredient. Don't use too much. You can always

t

add more, but You can't take it out.

. .

Table salt has a fine granutation. lt may contain iodine as a dietary additive' Table satt also may contain other additives to prevent caking'

BasiI

Kosher salt is prized in the kitchen because of its purity. Unlike tabte salt, it contains additives. Because of its coarse or ftaky granulation, it does not dissotve as

no

quickty as table salt, but it is easierto use when added to foods by hand, so many chefs prefer it to table salt at their cooking stations.

.

ranging Sea satts of many origins and types are avaitable. Many of them have colors from grayto green to red, from various minerals and other impurities. These impurigives them ties atso add subtle flavors to the salt. ln addition, their coarse granutation primarily used are salts a pteasant mouthfeel. More expensive than other satts, sea as garnishes for Plated foods.

2. Pepper

comes in three forms: white, black, and green. A[[ three are actually the same

Chives

berry, but processed differentty. (Btack pepper is picked unripe; white is ripened and the hutl is removed; green peppercorns are picked unripe and preserved before their color darkens.)

.

Whole and crushed black pepper are used primarity in seasoning and flavoring stocks and sauces and, sometimes, red meats. Ground black pepper is used in the dining room

bY

the customer.

-'-\. Garlic chives

CHAPTER 4 BASIC PRINCIPI.ES OF COOKING AND FOOD SCIENCE

o

'

Ground whÌte pepperis more important as a seasoning in the food-service kitchen. Its flavor is stightly different from that of btack pepper, and it btends welt (in smalt quantities) with many foods. lts white color makes it visuatty undetectable in tightcolored foods. Green peppercorns are fairly expensive and are used in special recipes, primarity in

luxury restaurants. The types packed in water, brine, orvinegar (those in waterand in brine have better flavor) are soft. wet-pack peppercorns are perishable. waterpacked peppercorns keep only a few days in the refrigeratorafterthey are opened,

CÌlantro

while the others keep longer. Dried green peppercorns are also available.

Dill

3.

'î

Red pepper or coyen ne is comptetely unretated to btack and white pepper. lt betongs to the same family as paprika and fresh sweet bell peppers. used in tiny amounts, it gives a spicy hotness to sauces and soups without actually altering the flavor. ln larger amounts, it gives both heat and flavor to many spicy foods, such as those of Mexico

and lndia.

4.

Epazote

Lemon iuice is an important seasoning, particularty for enlivening the flavor of sauces

and soups,

5. Fresh herbs

are almost always superiorto dried herbs. They should be used whenever cost and avaitabitity permit. Not long ago, the onty fresh herbs generally available in many areas of North America were pa rsley, chives, and sometimes m int and diil. Now, however, most herbs are available fresh. The accompanying photos illustrate the most commonly used fresh herbs as well as some unusualfresh flavoring ingredients.

6. onion, gorlic, shallots, and other members

of the onion famity, as well as carrots and cetery, are used as flavorings in virtualty alI stations of the kitchen and even in the bakeshop. Tryto avoid the use ofdried onion and garlic products, except as a component of spice blends. They have less flavor, and the fresh product is always available.

green ginger

7, wine, brondy, and other atcoholic beverages are used to ftavor sauces, soups, and

Lemongrass

many entrées. Brandy should be boited orflamed to eliminate the high percentage of alcohol, which would be unpteasant in the finished dish. Tabte wines usualty need some cooking or reduction (either separatety orwith other ingredients) to produce the desired flavors. Fortified wines Iike sherry and Madeira, on the other hand, may be added as flavorings atthe end ofcooking,

8, Prepared mustard

is a blend of ground mustard seed, vinegar, and other spices. lt is used to flavor meats, sauces, and salad dressings and as a table condiment. For most cooking purposes, European styles such as Dijon (French) or Dussetdorf (German) work

best, while the bright yellow American ballpark style is more appropriate as a table condiment than as a cooking ingredient. A coarse, grainy style is sometimes called for in specialty recipes. Marjoram

Parsle¡ flat

Mint

Rosemary

Parsley, curly

Thyme

Tarragon

Sage

BUILDING

9. Grated lemon

and orange rind is used in sauces, meats, and poultry (as in duckting

FTAVOR

à

['orange) as we[[ as in the bakeshop. 0nty the colored outer portion, called the zest, which contains the flavorfuI oils, is used. The white pith is bitter.

70. MSG, or monosodium glutomate, is a flavor enhancer widely used in Asian cooking. MSG doesn't actuatly change the flavor offoods, but it acts on the taste buds. lt has a reputation for causing chest pains and headaches in some individuals'

Using Herbs and Spices Definitions Herbs are the leaves of certain plants that usuatly grow in temperate ctimates. Spices arelhe buds, fruits, ftowers, bark, seeds, and roots of plants and trees, many of which grow in tropicalctimates. The distinction is often confusing, but it is not as important to know which flavorings are spices and which are herbs as it is to use them skittfully. Tabte 4.1 is not a substitute for famitiarity with the actual products. Eventuatly, you shoutd be abte to identify any spice on your shetf by aroma, taste, and appearance without looking at the labet. The accompanying photos illustrate a number of whole spices.

Top row, left to

right:

black peppercorns,

gfeen PePpercorns, pink peppetcorns. Bottom row, left to right: white peppercotns, Sichuan peppercofns

¡

Top row, left to right: cloves, nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon sticks.

Bottom row, left to right: iuniper berries, cardamom, saffron, star anise

dill seed, coriander seed, caraway seed. Bottom row, left to right: fennel seed, cumin seed, anise seed

Top row, left to right: celery seed,

CHAPTER 4 BASIC PRINCIPLES OF COOKING AND FOOD SCIENCE

Guidelines for Using Herbs and Spices 1.

Be

familiar with each spice's aroma, flavor, and effect on food. looking at a spice chart,

induding the one in this booh is no substitute for familiarity with the actual product. 2. Store dried herbs and

spices in a cool place, tightly covered, in opaque containers. Heat, light, and moisture cause herbs and spices to deteriorate rapidly.

3. Don't use

stale spices and herbs, and don't buy more than you can use in about 6 months. Whole spices keep longer than ground, but both lose much flavor after 6 months.

4.

Be cautious after you have replaced old spices. The fresher products are more potent, so

the amount you used l¡efore might now be too much.

5. Use good-quality spices and herbs. It doesn't pay to economize here. The difference in cost is only a fraction

ofa cent per portion.

6. Whole spices take longer to release flavors than ground spices, so allow for adequate cooking time.

7. Whole herbs and spices for flavoring a liquid are tied loosely in

a piece of cheesecloth

(called,a sachet) for easy removal.

8. When in doubt,

add less than you

think you need. You can always add more, but it's hard

to remove what you've already added.

9.

Except in dishes like curry or chili, spices should not dominate. Often, they should not even be evident. If you can taste the nutmeg in the creamed spinach, there's probably too much nutmeg.

10. Herbs and spices added to uncooked foods such as salads and dressings need several hours for flavors to be released and blended. 1

1.

Taste foods before serving whenever possible. How else can you

. How do chefs use the idea offlavor balance to combine

a

adjustthe seasoningl

variety ofingredients into a

single dishl

. What is the difference between seasoning and flavoringl . What guidelines are used for conectly adding herbs and spices to foodsl

QUESTTONS FOR DTSCUSSION

TERMS FOR REVIEW molecular gastronomy

cooking

infra red

ba rbec

carametizat¡on

microwave

gelatinization fiber

moist-heat methods dry-heat methods

rangetop smoke-roast pan-smoke

denature

boit

gritt

coagu lation Maitlard reaction connective tissues

simmer

griddte

umami primary ftavor

poach

pan-broil

supporting flavor

bla nch

season i ng

oits smoke point

steam en papitlote braise stew roast bake

sauté degtaze pan-fry

flavoring volatile

deep-fry pressure fry

herb spice

evaporation cond uction convection

radiation

u

e

broil

colloid hydrocoltoid flavor profite

sous vide

QUTSTIONS FOR DISCUSSION Your broiter cook has just broited a codfish fillet that turned out dry, rubbery, and shrunken. Explain what happened to it. 2. Why might adding some tomato product to a beef stew help make the meat more tender? 3. You are roasting a [arge quantity of ducktings and must use both your conventional ovens and your convection oven. You set a[[ the ovens at the same temperature, but find the ducktings in the convection oven are done first. Why did this h a ppen? 4. You are roasting two beef tenderloins of the same size, one in an oven set at 450oF (230'C), and the other in an oven at 250"F (12OoC). You remove both ofthem from the oven when

the temperature at the center is 135oF (57"C). Describe the doneness ofeach tenderloin from outside to inside. 5. Arrange the following cooking methods in three groups, depending on whether they are moist-heat methods, dry-heat methods without fat, or dry-heat methods with fat: braising, n g, deep-fryi n g, sa utéi ng, poach in g, steaming, broi ti n g, pressure frying, grilling, sim mering. 6. What are some advantages of braising a pan of Swiss steaks in the oven instead ofon the range?

roasti

7.

A cook in your restaurant is roasting severaI pans of chickens.

He thinks they are browning too fast, and he covers the pans with foilto keep the chickens from browning much more' What is wrong with this? 8. You are sautéing beeftenderloin tips for stroganoff, and you suddenly find the meat is simmering in tiquid rather than

sautéing. What did you do wrong? are too greasy and soggy. How can you correct the problem? 10. What food safety probtems are posed by the vacuum packaging a n d the low cooking tem peratu res of sous vide cooking? 1 1. Descri be th e d ifferen ce belw een p ri m a ry fl avor and s u p po rti n g flavor.selectafavorite recipe and explain the function ofeach ingredient, indicating which are primary ftavors and which are

9. Your customers complain your French fries

secondary flavors. 12. What is meant by the phrase "adiust the seasoning"? 13. What iswrongwith addingwhote caraway seed to a portion of goulash just before serving?