2010
INSTALLATION MANUAL
FREESTANDING WALL INSTALLATION Redi-Rock free-standing wall blocks are finished on two or three sides and are used in appli...
FREESTANDING WALL INSTALLATION Redi-Rock free-standing wall blocks are finished on two or three sides and are used in applications where both sides of the wall are visible. They can be installed as “stand alone” walls, such as perimeter walls or fences. They can also be installed as top courses on a standard Redi-Rock retaining wall to provide a visual or structural barrier. 1. Start and end free-standing walls with straight blocks. (Three sided curved blocks are not available.) 2. Free-standing walls are installed with no batter. TIP: Standard Redi-Rock blocks have a 1 ¼”(32mm) setback between courses. Free-standing blocks installed on retaining blocks with two setback options. If the retaining blocks have a 10”(254mm) knob, the setback between the retaining block and the first free-standing block will be 2 ½”(64mm). If the retaining blocks have a 7 ½”(190mm) knob, the setback between the retaining block and the first free-standing block will be 1 ¼”(32mm). 3. A 6”(150mm) minimum leveling pad shall be installed per the instructions in the Leveling Pad details in the RETAINING WALL INSTALLATION Section. 4. Free-standing walls shall have a minimum of 6”(150mm) bury at the base. 5. A wall constructed with all free-standing curved blocks will have a radius of 14’ 6”(4.42mm). A wall constructed with alternating straight and curved free-standing blocks will have a radius of 29’ 0”(8.84m). TIP: Pre-plan the construction of a free-standing wall on top of a curved retaining wall so that the top course of the retaining wall blocks has a 14’ 6”(4.42m) or 29’ 0”(8.84m) radius to insure a proper fit. If these radii are not possible, the freestanding blocks will need to be field cut as needed to fit. Ordering blocks constructed with the 4” x 12”(100mm x 300mm) end insert will aid in field cutting.
6. The maximum gap between free-standing blocks on curves or transitions shall not exceed ½”(13mm). Gaps shall alternate every other course so they do not line up in adjacent courses. 7. Colored foam “Backer Rod” can be used to fill any gaps which may occur between the blocks when installing walls. Backer rods from 5/8” - 1”(16mm - 25mm) diameter can be purchased from Ersco at 1-800-224-6048 or from Concrete Central at 616-475-8800. 8. Larger gaps due to variable radius walls shall be eliminated by field cutting the free-standing blocks. Plan all field cuts ahead to minimize the impact to the joint alignment between courses.
Cap Installation 1. Mark the center of the free-standing blocks to monitor the correct bond beam spacing. 2. Place a minimum of two beads of construction adhesive on top of the free-standing block before setting the cap block. Use an adhesive that meets the requirements of ASTM D3498 and C557 and HUD/FHA Use of Materials Bulletin #60. An example is Titebond Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive by Franklin International (1-800-347-4583) or PL Premium Construction Adhesive (www.stickwithpl.com). Mortar cement may also be used if desired. 3. Three sided caps shall be used on the end of walls. Two sided caps shall be used in the middle of walls. Caps may be saw cut as needed for proper alignment. 4. Joints between caps can be grouted after installation for a more finished look. TIP: A Probst Quick Lift may be used for easier installation of cap blocks or free-standing top (flat) blocks.
FORCE PROTECTION INSTALLATION Post-tensioned cables and j-bolts can be installed in free-standing blocks to tie the individual blocks together into a large monolithic block for use in a force protection application. The free-standing blocks modified for force protection must be ordered to provide the tube for cable installation.
3/4” (19mm) Galvanized Cable
Note: The following are individual line item steps to describe the installation of the post-tensioned cable and j-bolts. In practice, the cable is threaded through the blocks and j-bolts are installed simultaneously as the blocks are placed.
Post-Tensioned Cable Installation 1. Install threaded termination end on the end of the cable. (See “Assembly Instructions” sheet in this section) 2. Thread cable with termination end through all the blocks. It is important that the cable is placed in each course of blocks prior to placing the next course. 3. Pull the cable through the block on the far end of the wall until approximately 2”(50mm) of threads protrude beyond the end of the blocks. This 2”(50mm) of exposed threads will provide room to place a 5/8” x 6” x 9” steel plate over the exposed threads and start the nut. 4. Mark and cut the cable at the starting end of the wall so that 4”(100mm) of cable protrudes beyond the block. The 4” protrusion will provide room to install the 5/8” x 6” x 9” (16 x 150 x 225mm) steel plate and ferrule termination fitting. 5. After the cable has been cut, slide the entire cable several feet towards the ferrule end so that you will have room to install the steel plate and ferrule termination end. (See “Wedge and Ferrule Assembly Installation” sheet in this section.) 6. Pull the cable snug so that the ferrule is against the steel plate. There will be 2”(50mm) of thread exposed at the far end of the wall.
7. Place the steel plate over the threads and start the nut. The nut can be tightened to the desired tension.
J-Bolt Installation 1. Before placing bottom row of blocks, augur hole and pour in place 10” x 3’(254mm x 915mm) deep concrete anchor with ½”(13mm) rebar hook. 2. Set bottom block. 3. Install J-bolt in ground anchor and lean against block. 4. Set adjacent block. 5. Place clip between blocks in hooks provided on block ends. 6. Place J-bolt through center of clip, thread nut on J-bolt , and tighten.
10” x 3” (254mm x 915mm) POURED-IN-PLACE CONCRETE WITH 1/2”(13mm) REBAR FULL DEPTH
7. For next courses of block, repeat procedure but connect J-bolt to lower block instead of ground anchor.
Wedge-type Ferrules Installation Wedge-type Ferrules Installation Installation is Fast and Easy!
1. Insert cable through the ferrule and spread the strands to insert wedge halves over the core of the wire rope.
2. Position individual strands into the proper grooves around the wedge halves and tap wedges until they are flush with strand ends.
3. Slide the ferrule back over the wedge and drive the wedge into the ferrule with a hammer and short 4. Installation is complete. The first load will seat pipe which fits inside the strands and over the core. the cable and wedge securely in the ferrule. WARNING: Strands should project above the wedge about 1/4" and should not finish below the end of the wedge.
