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CHAMONIX – ZERMATT STAGE 1:

Chamonix – Argentière Distance Time Start altitude High point Height gain Map Accommodation

Transport options

9km 2hrs 1037m Argentière, 1251m 214m LS 5003 Mont Blanc–Grand Combin 1:50,000 or LS 282T Martigny 1:50,000 Chamonix – hotels, youth hostel, camping Les Praz de Chamonix (35mins) – hotels, camping Argentière – hotels, gîte Train & bus (Chamonix–Argentière)

This initial, very short stage is suggested as a prelude for walkers who arrive in Chamonix late in the day and wish to get a few kilometres under their boots before seeking overnight accommodation. Those who arrive early and fresh enough from their travels can, of course, combine this with Stage 2 and continue over Col de Balme to Trient for an eighthour day. It’s a valley walk without any passes to tackle. But it’s a pleasant valley walk all the same, with a few short ascents to contend with. It begins by threading a way among the crowds that throng the streets of Chamonix and heads upvalley on the road leading out of town, but then takes a path through woods and across open glades with a wonderful introductory view of the Drus standing guard over the Mer de Glace. Crossing the Arveyron the walk enters Les Praz de Chamonix, then over the river Arve onto another woodland path that is followed most of the way to Argentière. Chamonix’s valley is dominated by the Mont Blanc massif whose jagged aiguilles form fenceposts of granite and whose glaciers hang in sheets of arctic splendour above the town and its neighbouring forests. On the walk to Argentière there are several opportunities to gaze upon such scenes, while the bare northern wall with the russet-coloured Aiguilles Rouges is largely hidden from view.

40

STAGE 1: CHAMONIX – ARGENTIÈRE As early as 1741 Chamonix – then a small village – was ‘discovered’ by Richard Pococke and William Windham, whose Account of the Glaciers or Ice Alps in Savoy sowed the seeds of popularity for the valley; a popularity that has steadily increased from a lowly trickle to the present-day deluge of tourists who threaten an overkill, with almost a million visitors per year in Chamonix alone. Footpaths along the valley are busy during the summer, and will remain so for the first three stages; that is, until the route of the Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB) has been left behind. During the high season there’s likely to be a heavy demand for accommodation. A phone call in advance is recommended.

The Route CHAMONIX (1) (1037m) Hotels, youth hostel, camping, restaurants, shops, banks, PTT, tourist information, railway, buses, cableways and funicular. From Chamonix railway station walk down the main street, Avenue Michel Croz (2), alongside shops and restaurants, and take the first road breaking to the right. This is Rue Whymper (3),which leads to a roundabout opposite the Ecole Nationale de Ski et l’Alpinisme. Continue straight ahead along the road signed to Les Praz and Argentière, soon leaving the town behind. Shortly after passing the Chamonix–Mont Blanc road sign (15mins from the station) note a bus stop on the left, and a sign on the right to La Frasse and Les Coverays. Immediately after the bus stop turn left over a bridge, then take the right-hand of two paths. This leads through the Bois du Bouchet. On coming to a crossing track turn right and soon gain a very fine view of the spear-like Drus ahead. At a crossing road continue ahead, and when the path veers right to enter a tunnel, leave it in favour of a minor path which takes you onto 41

STAGE 2:

Argentière – Col de Balme – Trient Distance Time Start altitude High point Height gain Height loss Map Accommodation

Transport options

Alternative route

12km 5–51⁄2hrs 1251m Col de Balme, 2204m 953m 925m LS 5003 Mont Blanc–Grand Combin 1:50,000 or LS 282T Martigny 1:50,000 Le Tour (1hr 30mins) – hotel, gîte Col de Balme (3hrs) – refuge Le Peuty (5hrs 15mins) – gîte, camping Trient – dortoirs Bus (Argentière–Le Tour) Gondola and chairlift (Le Tour–Charamillon–Les Grandes Otanes near Col de Balme) Col de Balme–Col de la Forclaz via Refuge Les Grands-Dessus – see Alternative Stage 2

For a first full day’s walking this is a convenient and relatively undemanding stage. There’s plenty of height to gain and lose, but the crossing of Col de Balme is not at all severe and walkers fresh from the UK have an opportunity to get into their stride with ease. Views on the way to the pass, when you look back through the length of the Chamonix valley, are dominated by Mont Blanc and its aiguilles, while the col itself gives a magnificent vision of the Monarch of the Alps shining its great snow dome and sending long glacial tentacles into the valley. The Swiss frontier runs through Col de Balme, so all the descent (and the rest of the walk to Zermatt) will be within Swiss territory. Vistas of Mont Blanc are shunted into memory, although in days to come sudden surprise views will draw the eye back to the west and that great crown of snow. The valley of Trient into which you descend is green and pastoral. There are no major peaks nearby, of either snow or rock, to match the 47

CHAMONIX – ZERMATT grandeur of France behind you, but the scene from the col is not short of beauty, for to the north a line of mountains indicates the crest of the Bernese Alps, with Les Diablerets, Wildhorn and Wildstrubel just discernible. Much of this stage is shared with the route of the TMB, so you will no doubt meet plenty of other walkers during the day.

1hr 30mins

3hrs3hrs 30mins

10 5hrs

TRIENT 1279m

5 3hrs3hrs 30mins

LE PEUTY 1328m

COL DE BALME 2204m

0

CHARAMILLON 1850m

LE TOUR 1453m

ARGENTIÈRE 1251m

ROUTE PROFILE: STAGE 2: ARGENTIÈRE – TRIENT

12km 5hrs 30mins

The Route From the centre of Argentière take the road to the right (east), to pass the village post office and Office du Tourisme, and cross the river (l’Arve) with the Glacier d’Argentière (1) seen directly ahead. At a junction of streets bear right into the Chemin de la Moraine, and you will come to the line of the Mont Blanc Express railway. Pass beneath this and onto a track going ahead towards woods where you join the Petit Balcon Nord. Shortly after passing a chalet on the right, you’ll see another set back on the left. On coming to a second chalet on the left, take the path beside it which joins the main Petit Balcon Nord at a signed junction. Turn left towards Le Tour. 48

STAGE 3:

Trient – Fenêtre d’Arpette – Champex Distance Time Start altitude High point Height gain Height loss Map Accommodation Transport options

Alternative route

14km 61⁄2–7hrs 1279m Fenêtre d’Arpette, 2665m 1386m 1199m LS 5003 Mont Blanc–Grand Combin 1:50,000 or LS 282T Martigny 1:50,000 Arpette (6hrs) – hotel/dortoir, camping Champex – hotels, pensions, dortoirs, camping Postbus (Trient–Col de la Forclaz–Martigny) Train (Martigny–Orsières) Bus (Orsières–Champex) Col de la Forclaz/Alp Bovine – see Alternative Stage 3

The crossing of Fenêtre d’Arpette is a classic outing and one of the most demanding of the whole walk. The approach to it is full of interest, with the frozen cascades of the Glacier du Trient’s icefall in view nearly all the way, while the descent into the lovely pastoral Val d’Arpette begins with a wilderness of scree and boulders, but finishes with joyful streams, spacious woods and meadows. These contrasts are bound to bring pleasure to all Haute Route trekkers, for it is in such contrasts that long-distance mountain routes gain much of their appeal. The path is a good one practically all the way, but care should be exercised on the initial descent from the pass where boulder fields are crossed. A twisted ankle here could have serious consequences. At the end of the day Champex is the first ‘real’ Swiss village of the route, with attractive chalets facing the sun and boxes of flowers at the windows. It’s a popular, welcoming little resort that has grown along the shores of a small reedy lake, and is noted for its magnificent alpine garden – considered by many to be the finest in Switzerland. 61

CHAMONIX – ZERMATT

0

5 1hr 20mins

10 4hrs

6hrs

CHAMPEX 1466m

ARPETTE 1627m

FENÊTRE D’ARPETTE 2665m

CHALET DU GLACIER 1583m

TRIENT 1279m

ROUTE PROFILE: STAGE 3: TRIENT – CHAMPEX

14km 7hrs

Note: An alternative approach to Champex, which is less demanding than the Arpette crossing, yet still a very pleasant walk in its own right, is the so-called ‘Bovine’ route, also adopted by the Tour of Mont Blanc. In suspect weather it would be preferable to the crossing of Fenêtre d’Arpette, and is detailed as Alternative Stage 3 below.

The Route Above the church in Trient walk up the main Col de la Forclaz road to a sign by a stone cross on the left which directs the way to the Sentier du Bisse-Glacier along a broad grass track rising in long easy loops. At a junction of tracks continue ahead to regain the road. Cross directly ahead onto the continuing track which soon narrows to a footpath, zig-zags again and comes to a lovely bisse path where you turn right. (A bisse is an irrigation watercourse.) Follow this path all the way to the CHALET DU GLACIER (1583m, 1hr 20mins, refreshments). 62

End of extract from Chamonix-Zermatt For more information and to buy this book click here ISBN: 9781852845131

CICERONE Guides for walkers, trekkers, mountaineers, climbers and cyclists

www.cicerone.co.uk