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The

CAMBRIDGE WORLD HISTORY of

FOOD

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Board of Editors Kenneth F. Kiple Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas General Editors George Armelagos Department of Anthropology Emory University Atlanta, Georgia

Robert Fogel Center for Population Economics University of Chicago Chicago, Illinois

Brian Murton Department of Geography University of Hawaii Manoa, Hawaii

Maurice Aymard Maison des Sciences de l’Homme Paris, France

Daniel W. Gade Department of Geography University of Vermont Burlington, Vermont

Marion Nestle Department of Nutrition, Food and Hotel Management New York University New York, New York

Thomas G. Benedek Department of Medicine University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Alan H. Goodman School of Natural Sciences Hampshire College Amherst, Massachusetts

Donald Brothwell Institute of Archaeology University of London London, England

Louis E. Grivetti Department of Nutrition University of California, Davis Davis, California

William F. Bynum Wellcome Institute for the History of Medicine London, England

Jerome Handler Virginia Foundation for the Humanities Charlottesville, Virginia

Doris Howes Calloway Department of Nutritional Sciences University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California Kenneth J. Carpenter Department of Nutritional Sciences University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California Alfred W. Crosby Department of American Studies University of Texas Austin, Texas Philip D. Curtin Department of History Johns Hopkins University Baltimore, Maryland Frederick L. Dunn Department of Epidemiology and Biostatistics University of California San Francisco, California Stanley L. Engerman Department of Economics and History University of Rochester Rochester, New York Antoinette Fauve-Chamoux Commission Internationale de Démographie Historique Paris, France

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Mary Karasch Department of History Oakland University Rochester, Michigan Jack Ralph Kloppenburg, Jr. College of Agriculture and Life Sciences University of Wisconsin Madison, Wisconsin John Komlos Seminar für Wirtschaftsgeschichte University of Munich Munich, Germany Norman Kretchmer Department of Nutritional Sciences University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California Stephen J. Kunitz Department of Preventive Medicine University of Rochester Medical Center Rochester, New York Clark Spencer Larsen Department of Anthropology University of North Carolina Chapel Hill, North Carolina Leslie Sue Lieberman Department of Anthropology University of Florida Gainesville, Florida Ellen Messer World Hunger Program Brown University Providence, Rhode Island

James L. Newman Department of Geography Syracuse University Syracuse, New York K. David Patterson† Department of History University of North Carolina Charlotte, North Carolina Jeffery Pilcher Department of History The Citadel Charleston, South Carolina Ted A. Rathbun Department of Anthropology University of South Carolina Columbia, South Carolina Clark Sawin Medical Center Veterans Administration Boston, Massachusetts Roger Schofield Cambridge Group for the History of Population and Social Structure Cambridge, England Frederick J. Simoons Department of Geography University of California, Davis Davis, California Noel W. Solomons Center for Studies of Sensory Impairment, Aging and Metabolism (CeSSIAM) Eye and Ear Hospital Guatemala City, Guatemala John C. Super Department of History West Virginia University Morgantown, West Virginia Douglas H. Ubelaker Department of Anthropology National Museum of Natural History Smithsonian Institution Washington D.C.

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EDITORS

Kenneth F. Kiple Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Stephen V. Beck ASSOCIATE EDITORS

Rachael Rockwell Graham H. Micheal Tarver ASSISTANT EDITORS

Jack G. Benge Paul Buckingham Anne Calahan Kristine Dahm Julie Rae Fenstermaker Peter Genovese Jeffery Grim David Harold Carrie R. Kiple

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Graham K. Kiple Jane D. Kiple Jonicka Peters Shimale Robinson Roy Smith Jeffery Sodergren Kerry Stewart David Trevino Gerald Vidro-Valentin

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Cambridge University Press 978-0-521-40214-9 - The Cambridge World History of Food: Volume One Edited by Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas Frontmatter More information

The

CAMBRIDGE WORLD HISTORY of

FOOD EDITORS

Kenneth F. Kiple Kriemhild Coneè Ornelas

VOLUME ONE

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32 Avenue of the Americas, New York ny 10013-2473, USA Cambridge University Press is part of the University of Cambridge. It furthers the University’s mission by disseminating knowledge in the pursuit of education, learning and research at the highest international levels of excellence. www.cambridge.org Information on this title: www.cambridge.org /9780521402163 © Cambridge University Press 2000 This publication is in copyright. Subject to statutory exception and to the provisions of relevant collective licensing agreements, no reproduction of any part may take place without the written permission of Cambridge University Press. First published 2000 Reprinted 2015 A catalogue record for this publication is available from the British Library isbn 978-0-521-40216-3 Hardback (set of two volumes) The following illustrations in Part II are from the LuEsther T. Mertz Library, The New York Botanical Garden, Bronx, New York: Corn, Sorghum. The following illustrations in Parts II and III are from the General Research Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox and Tilden Foundations: Banana plant, White potato, Prickly sago palm, Taro, Early onion, Lentil, Cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Cucumber, Watermelon, Field mushroom, Long white squash, Tomato, Chestnut, Peanut, Sesame, Soybean, Coriander, Peking duck, Geese, Goat, Cacao, Kola. The following illustrations in Parts II and III are from the Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Columbia University: Oat, Olive, Sugar, Reindeer, Cattle, Turkey, Coffee. Cambridge University Press has no responsibility for the persistence or accuracy of URLs for external or third-party internet websites referred to in this publication, and does not guarantee that any content on such websites is, or will remain, accurate or appropriate.

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In Memory of

Norman Kretchmer Richard P. Palmieri James J. Parsons Daphne A. Roe and

K. David Patterson

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 __________________________ CONTENTS

__________________________

VOLUME ONE page xix xxix

List of Tables, Figures, and Maps List of Contributors

Part I I.1.

Preface

xxxvii

Acknowledgments Introduction

xxxix 1

Determining What Our Ancestors Ate

11

Dietary Reconstruction and Nutritional Assessment of Past Peoples: The Bioanthropological Record

13

Clark Spencer Larsen

I.2.

Paleopathological Evidence of Malnutrition

34

Donald J. Ortner and Gretchen Theobald

I.3.

Dietary Reconstruction As Seen in Coprolites

44

Kristin D. Sobolik

I.4.

Animals Used for Food in the Past: As Seen by Their Remains Excavated from Archaeological Sites

51

Elizabeth S. Wing

I.5.

Chemical Approaches to Dietary Representation

58

Ted A. Rathbun

I.6.

History, Diet, and Hunter-Gatherers

63

Mark Nathan Cohen ix

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Contents

x

Part II II.A.

Staple Foods: Domesticated Plants and Animals Grains II.A.1.

75 Amaranth

75

Mary Karasch

II.A.2.

Barley

81

Joy McCorriston

II.A.3.

Buckwheat

90

G. Mazza

II.A.4.

Maize

97

Ellen Messer

II.A.5.

Millets

112

J. M. J. de Wet

II.A.6.

Oat

121

David M. Peterson and J. Paul Murphy

II.A.7.

Rice

132

Te-Tzu Chang

II.A.8.

Rye

149

Hansjörg Küster

II.A.9.

Sorghum

152

J. M. J. de Wet

II.A.10. Wheat

158

Joy McCorriston

II.B.

Roots, Tubers, and Other Starchy Staples II.B.1.

Bananas and Plantains

175

Will C. McClatchey

II.B.2.

Manioc

181

Mary Karasch

II.B.3.

Potatoes (White)

187

Ellen Messer

II.B.4.

Sago

201

H. Micheal Tarver and Allan W. Austin

II.B.5.

Sweet Potatoes and Yams

207

Patricia J. O’Brien

II.B.6.

Taro

218

Nancy J. Pollock

II.C.

Important Vegetable Supplements II.C.1.

Algae

231

Sheldon Aaronson

II.C.2.

The Allium Species (Onions, Garlic, Leeks, Chives, and Shallots)

249

Julia Peterson

II.C.3.

Beans, Peas, and Lentils

271

Lawrence Kaplan

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Contents

II.C.4.

Chilli Peppers

xi

281

Jean Andrews

II.C.5.

Cruciferous and Green Leafy Vegetables

288

Robert C. Field

II.C.6.

Cucumbers, Melons, and Watermelons

298

David Maynard and Donald N. Maynard

II.C.7.

Fungi

313

Sheldon Aaronson

II.C.8.

Squash

335

Deena S. Decker-Walters and Terrence W. Walters

II.C.9.

Tomatoes

351

Janet Long

II.D.

Staple Nuts II.D.1.

Chestnuts

359

Antoinette Fauve-Chamoux

II.D.2.

Peanuts

364

Johanna T. Dwyer and Ritu Sandhu

II.E.

Animal, Marine, and Vegetable Oils II.E.1.

An Overview of Oils and Fats, with a Special Emphasis on Olive Oil

375

Sean Francis O’Keefe

II.E.2.

Coconut

388

Hugh C. Harries

II.E.3.

Palm Oil

397

K. G. Berger and S. M. Martin

II.E.4.

Sesame

411

Dorothea Bedigian

II.E.5.

Soybean

442

Thomas Sorosiak

II.E.6.

Sunflower

427

Charles B. Heiser, Jr.

II.F.

Trading in Tastes II.F.1.

Spices and Flavorings

431

Hansjörg Küster

II.F.2.

Sugar

437

J. H. Galloway

II.G.

Important Foods from Animal Sources II.G.1.

American Bison

450

J. Allen Barksdale

II.G.2.

Aquatic Animals

456

Colin E. Nash

II.G.3.

Camels

467

Elizabeth A. Stephens

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Contents

xii

II.G.4.

Caribou and Reindeer

480

David R. Yesner

II.G.5.

Cattle

489

Daniel W. Gade

II.G.6.

Chickens

496

Roger Blench and Kevin C. MacDonald

II.G.7.

Chicken Eggs

499

William J. Stadelman

II.G.8.

Dogs

508

Stanley J. Olsen

II.G.9.

Ducks

517

Rosemary Luff

II.G.10. Game

524

Stephen Beckerman

II.G.11. Geese

529

Kevin C. MacDonald and Roger Blench

II.G.12. Goats

531

Daniel W. Gade

II.G.13. Hogs (Pigs)

536

Daniel W. Gade

II.G.14. Horses

542

Daniel W. Gade

II.G.15. Insects

546

Darna L. Dufour and Joy B. Sander

II.G.16. Llamas and Alpacas

555

Daniel W. Gade

II.G.17. Muscovy Ducks

559

Daniel W. Gade

II.G.18. Pigeons

561

Richard F. Johnston

II.G.19. Rabbits

565

Peter R. Cheeke

II.G.20. Sea Turtles and Their Eggs

567

James J. Parsons

II.G.21. Sheep

574

Daniel W. Gade

II.G.22. Turkeys

578

Stanley J. Olsen

II.G.23. Water Buffalo

583

Robert Hoffpauir

II.G.24. Yak

607

Richard P. Palmieri

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Contents

Part III

xiii

Dietary Liquids III.1.

Beer and Ale

619

Phillip A. Cantrell II

III.2.

Breast Milk and Artificial Infant Feeding

626

Antoinette Fauve-Chamoux

III.3.

Cacao

635

Murdo J. MacLeod

III.4.

Coffee

641

Steven C. Topik

III.5.

Distilled Beverages

653

James Comer

III.6.

Kava

664

Nancy J. Pollock

III.7.

Khat

671

Clarke Brooke

III.8.

Kola Nut

684

Edmund Abaka

III.9.

Milk and Dairy Products

692

Keith Vernon

III.10.

Soft Drinks

702

Colin Emmins

III.11.

Tea

712

John H. Weisburger and James Comer

III.12.

Water

720

Christopher Hamlin

III.13.

Wine

730

James L. Newman

Part IV IV.A.

The Nutrients – Deficiencies, Surfeits, and Food-Related Disorders Vitamins IV.A.1.

Vitamin A

741

George Wolf

IV.A.2.

Vitamin B Complex: Thiamine, Riboflavin, Niacin, Pantothenic Acid, Pyridoxine, Cobalamin, Folic Acid

750

Daphne A. Roe

IV.A.3.

Vitamin C

754

R. E. Hughes

IV.A.4.

Vitamin D

763

Glenville Jones

IV.A.5.

Vitamin E

769

Glenville Jones

IV.A.6.

Vitamin K and Vitamin K–Dependent Proteins

774

Myrtle Thierry-Palmer

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Contents

xiv

IV.B.

Minerals IV.B.1.

Calcium

785

Herta Spencer

IV.B.2.

Iodine and Iodine-Deficiency Disorders

797

Basil S. Hetzel

IV.B.3.

Iron

811

Susan Kent and Patricia Stuart-Macadam

IV.B.4.

Magnesium

824

Theodore D. Mountokalakis

IV.B.5.

Phosphorus

834

John J. B. Anderson

IV.B.6.

Potassium

843

David S. Newman

IV.B.7.

Sodium and Hypertension

848

Thomas W. Wilson and Clarence E. Grim

IV.B.8.

Other Trace Elements

856

Forrest H. Nielsen

IV.B.9.

Zinc

868

Ananda S. Prasad

IV.C.

Proteins, Fats, and Essential Fatty Acids IV.C.1.

Essential Fatty Acids

876

Jacqueline L. Dupont

IV.C.2.

Proteins

882

Kenneth J. Carpenter

IV.C.3.

Energy and Protein Metabolism

888

Peter L. Pellett

IV.D.

Deficiency Diseases IV.D.1.

Beriberi

914

Frederick L. Dunn

IV.D.2.

Iron Deficiency and Anemia of Chronic Disease

919

Susan Kent

IV.D.3.

Keshan Disease

939

Yiming Xia

IV.D.4.

Osteoporosis

947

Robert P. Heaney

IV.D.5.

Pellagra

960

Daphne A. Roe and Stephen V. Beck

IV.D.6.

Pica

967

Margaret J. Weinberger

IV.D.7.

Protein–Energy Malnutrition

977

J. D. L. Hansen

IV.D.8.

Scurvy

988

R. E. Hughes

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Contents

IV.E.

Food-Related Disorders IV.E.1. Anorexia Nervosa

xv

1001

Heather Munro Prescott

IV.E.2.

Celiac Disease

1008

Donald D. Kasarda

IV.E.3.

Food Allergies

1022

Susan L. Hefle

IV.E.4.

Food-Borne Infection

1031

Sujatha Panikker

IV.E.5.

Food Sensitivities: Allergies and Intolerances

1048

Judy Perkin

IV.E.6.

Lactose Intolerance

1057

K. David Patterson

IV.E.7.

Obesity

1062

Leslie Sue Lieberman

IV.F.

Diet and Chronic Disease IV.F.1.

Diabetes

1078

Leslie Sue Lieberman

IV.F.2.

Nutrition and Cancer

1086

Robert Kroes and J. H. Weisburger

IV.F.3.

Nutrition and Heart-Related Diseases

1097

Melissa H. Olken and Joel D. Howell

IV.F.4.

The Cardiovascular System, Coronary Artery Disease, and Calcium: A Hypothesis

1109

Stephen Seely

VOLUME TWO Part V

Food and Drink around the World V.A.

The Beginnings of Agriculture: The Ancient Near East and North Africa

1123

Naomi F. Miller and Wilma Wetterstrom

V.B.

The History and Culture of Food and Drink in Asia V.B.1. The Middle East and South Asia

1140

Delphine Roger

V.B.2.

Southeast Asia

1151

Christine S. Wilson

V.B.3.

China

1165

Françoise Sabban (translated by Elborg Forster)

V.B.4.

Japan

1175

Naomichi Ishige

V.B.5.

Korea

1183

Lois N. Magner

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Contents

xvi

V.C.

The History and Culture of Food and Drink in Europe V.C.1.

The Mediterranean (Diets and Disease Prevention)

1193

Marion Nestle

V.C.2.

Southern Europe

1203

Kenneth Albala

V.C.3.

France

1210

Eva Barlösius

V.C.4.

The British Isles

1217

Colin Spencer

V.C.5.

Northern Europe – Germany and Surrounding Regions

1226

Hansjörg Küster

V.C.6.

The Low Countries

1232

Anneke H. van Otterloo

V.C.7.

Russia

1240

K. David Patterson

V.D.

The History and Culture of Food and Drink in the Americas V.D.1.

Mexico and Highland Central America

1248

John C. Super and Luis Alberto Vargas

V.D.2.

South America

1254

Daniel W. Gade

V.D.3.

The Caribbean, Including Northern South America and Lowland Central America: Early History

1260

William F. Keegan

V.D.4.

The Caribbean from 1492 to the Present

1278

Jeffrey M. Pilcher

V.D.5.

Temperate and Arctic North America to 1492

1288

Elizabeth J. Reitz

V.D.6.

North America from 1492 to the Present

1304

James Comer

V.D.7.

The Arctic and Subarctic Regions

1323

Linda J. Reed

V.E.

The History and Culture of Food and Drink in Sub-Saharan Africa and Oceania V.E.1.

Africa South from the Sahara

1330

James L. Newman

V.E.2.

Australia and New Zealand

1339

Brian Murton

V.E.3.

The Pacific Islands

1351

Nancy Davis Lewis

V.F.

Culinary History

1367

Ellen Messer, Barbara Haber, Joyce Toomre, and Barbara Wheaton

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Contents

Part VI

xvii

History, Nutrition, and Health VI.1.

Nutrition and the Decline of Mortality

1381

John M. Kim

VI.2.

Nutrition and Mortality Decline: Another View

1389

William Muraskin

VI.3.

Infection and Nutrition: Synergistic Interactions

1397

Nevin S. Scrimshaw

VI.4.

Famine

1411

Brian Murton

VI.5.

Height and Nutrition

1427

Bernard Harris

VI.6.

The Nutrition of Women in the Developing World

1439

Eileen Kennedy and Lawrence Haddad

VI.7.

Infant and Child Nutrition

1444

Sara A. Quandt

VI.8.

Adolescent Nutrition and Fertility

1453

Heather Munro Prescott

VI.9.

Nutrition and Mental Development

1457

Donald T. Simeon and Sally M. Grantham-McGregor

VI.10.

Human Nutritional Adaptation: Biological and Cultural Aspects

1466

H. H. Draper

VI.11.

The Psychology of Food and Food Choice

1476

Paul Rozin

VI.12.

Food Fads

1486

Jeffrey M. Pilcher

VI.13.

Food Prejudices and Taboos

1495

Louis E. Grivetti

VI.14.

The Social and Cultural Uses of Food

1513

Carole M. Counihan

VI.15.

Food as Aphrodisiacs and Anaphrodisiacs?

1523

Thomas G. Benedek

VI.16.

Food as Medicine

1534

J. Worth Estes

VI.17.

Vegetarianism

1553

James C. Whorton

VI.18.

Vegetarianism: Another View

1564

H. Leon Abrams, Jr.

Part VII Contemporary Food-Related Policy Issues VII.1.

The State, Health, and Nutrition

1577

Carol F. Helstosky

VII.2.

Food Entitlements

1585

William H. Whitaker

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Contents

xviii

VII.3.

Food Subsidies and Interventions for Infant and Child Nutrition

1593

Penelope Nestel

VII.4.

Recommended Dietary Allowances and Dietary Guidance

1606

Alfred E. Harper

VII.5.

Food Labeling

1621

Eliza M. Mojduszka

VII.6.

Food Lobbies and U.S. Dietary Guidance Policy

1628

Marion Nestle

VII.7.

Food Biotechnology: Politics and Policy Implications

1643

Marion Nestle

VII.8.

Food Safety and Biotechnology

1662

Michael W. Pariza

VII.9.

Food Additives

1667

K. T. H. Farrer

VII.10. Substitute Foods and Ingredients

1677

Beatrice Trum Hunter

VII.11. Nonfoods as Dietary Supplements

1685

R. E. Hughes

VII.12. Food Toxins and Poisons from Microorganisms

1694

Gordon L. Klein and Wayne R. Snodgrass

VII.13. The Question of Paleolithic Nutrition and Modern Health: From the End to the Beginning

1704

Kenneth F. Kiple

Part VIII A Dictionary of the World’s Plant Foods

1711

Sources Consulted Index of Latin Names

1887 1890

Name Index Subject Index

1901 1917

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 __________________________ TABLES, FIGURES, AND MAPS

__________________________

II.B.6.1.

Tables II.A.3.1. II.A.3.2.

II.A.3.3.

II.A.3.4. II.A.3.5. II.A.3.6.

II.A.3.7.

II.A.6.1.

II.A.7.1. II.A.10.1. II.A.10.2.

Percent composition of buckwheat seed and its milling page 91 Average mineral and vitamin contents of buckwheat whole grain 92 Chemical composition of buckwheat, barley, and corn starch granules smaller than 315 μ 92 Quality of buckwheat and wheat protein 93 Primary grade determinants of buckwheat (Canada) 93 Absorbance of extracted color and tristimulus values of buckwheat samples stored at 25° C and 5 water activities for 19 months 94 Influence of cultivar and moisture content on dehulling characteristics and color of buckwheat seeds stored at 25° C and water activities of 0.23–0.97 for 45 days 95 World oat production, area harvested, and yield by continent and country, 1965 through 1994 126 Contrast in diversification: Oryza sativa vs. glaberrima 136 Prehistoric cultures of the Near East 162 Principal wheat types 164

II.C.1.1.

II.C.1.2. II.C.1.3. II.C.1.4. II.C.1.5. II.C.1.6. II.C.3.1. II.C.6.1. II.C.6.2. II.C.6.3. II.C.6.4.

II.C.6.5. II.C.7.1. II.C.7.2.

Nutritional value of the four types of taro Algae and blue-green bacteria eaten in contemporary Chile and Peru Algae eaten by humans now and in the past The gross chemical composition of edible algae Amino acid content of edible algae Vitamin content of edible algae The range of fatty acids found in edible algae Beans, peas, and lentils World cucumber and gherkin production, 1995 World cantaloupe and other melon production, 1995 World watermelon production, 1995 Per capita consumption of cucumbers, melons, and watermelons in the United States, 1996 Nutritional composition of some cucurbits Fungi eaten by humans around the world now and in the past Gross chemical composition of fungi as a percentage of fungal dry weight

228

232 233 239 240 242 244 272 309 309 310

311 311 317

325

xix

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Tables, Figures, and Maps

xx II.C.7.3.

II.C.7.4. II.C.7.5. II.C.8.1.

II.C.8.2. II.C.8.3. II.C.8.4. II.C.8.5.

II.D.2.1. II.D.2.2.

II.D.2.3.

II.D.2.4.

II.D.2.5. II.D.2.6. II.E.1.1. II.E.1.2.

II.E.1.3. II.E.1.4. II.E.1.5. II.E.1.6.

II.E.1.7. II.E.1.8.

Variations in the gross chemistry of different stages in the development of the Volvariella volvacea sporophore Vitamin content of edible fungi Foods and beverages that require fungal processing Domesticated varieties of Cucurbita argyrosperma ssp. argyrosperma Horticultural groups of Cucurbita moschata Horticultural groups of Cucurbita pepo Horticultural groups of Cucurbita maxima Mineral and vitamin content of young fruits, mature fruits, leaves, and growing tips and ground seed meal Characteristics of peanut varieties Comparison of various indexes of protein quality for peanuts and other protein-rich foods Comparison of the amino acids in peanuts compared to high-quality proteins Comparison of nutritive value of peanuts with other common cereals and legumes Nutritional value of Arachis hypogaea I. Nutritive value of common peanut foods Average oil contents of plant sources of oil Fatty acid composition ranges of natural populations of vegetable oils Levels of minor components in olive oil Fatty acid compositions of modified fatty acid vegetable oils Tocopherol isomer distribution in dietary fats and oils Approximate biological activity relationships of Vitamin E compounds Nontriacylglycerol materials in crude palm oil Fatty acid compositions in palm olein and stearin

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II.E.1.9.

326 326 328

338

II.E.1.10. II.E.1.11. II.E.3.1. II.E.3.2. II.E.3.3. II.E.3.4. II.E.3.5.

339 II.E.3.6. 341 II.E.3.7. 342 II.E.3.8.

349 365

II.E.3.9. II.E.3.10. II.E.6.1. II.F.1.1.

368 II.G.4.1. 368

II.G.4.2. II.G.7.1.

369 II.G.15.1. 369 372

II.G.15.2.

377 II.G.19.1. 379 379 380

II.G.22.1. II.G.23.1. III.2.1. III.2.2.

381 III.2.3. 381 382 382

III.2.4.

Common names for rapeseed species Fatty acid composition of butterfat Fat-soluble vitamin levels in fish liver oils Indonesia: Oil palm area Malaysia: Oil palm area Latin America: Earliest oil palm plantings Latin America: Oil palm area, 1992 Comparison of village palm oil processes Palm oil exports from selected countries Specifications of special grades of crude palm oil Palm oil imports to selected regions Composition of palm oil Tocopherol content of typical refined palm oil Sunflower production The origin of spices used historically and today Weights and edible weights for caribou (Rangifer tarandus) Age distribution of caribou from an Alaskan archaeological site Egg production of several countries of the world Numbers of species of insects used as food by stage of life cycle and geographic region Number of species of the insects most commonly consumed throughout the world by geographic region Nutrient composition of rabbit meat Southwestern chronology Population of water buffalo Typical analyses of milk from various species Daily quantities of milk a healthy child should ordinarily absorb during the first six months of life Number of babies, aged less than 1, abandoned in Paris Foundling Hospital, 1773–7, with infant mortality for each group, according to their origin General infant and child mortality in four European

383 385 387 399 400 400 400 401 406 406 407 407 408 429 432 484 487 502

547

552 566 579 586 627

627

630

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Tables, Figures, and Maps

III.2.5.

III.7.1. III.8.1. IV.A.1.1. IV.A.1.2.

IV.A.3.1. IV.A.6.1. IV.A.6.2. IV.B.1.1.

IV.B.1.2. IV.B.1.3.

IV.B.1.4. IV.B.1.5. IV.B.1.6. IV.B.2.1. IV.B.2.2.

IV.B.3.1. IV.B.3.2.

IV.B.3.3. IV.B.3.4. IV.B.4.1. IV.B.4.2.

countries during the second half of the eighteenth century 631 Number of children abandoned in Paris Foundling Hospital, 1773–7, according to their age and origin 631 Nutritional components of khat (Catha edulis) 680 Chemical composition of the pod husk, testa, and nut of kola 685 Association of vitamin A potency with yellow color in food 744 Countries categorized by degree of health; importance of vitamin A deficiency by WHO region 748 Ascorbic acid content of some plants 759 Vitamin K analogues 775 Phylloquinone content of common foods 775 Calcium balances of males and females during a low calcium intake 788 Studies of the calcium requirement 789 Effect of aluminum-containing antacids on the calcium and phosphorus balance 790 Effect of a high-protein diet on calcium metabolism 793 Patients with chronic alcoholism and osteoporosis 793 Effect of corticosteroids on the calcium balance 793 The spectrum of iodine-deficiency disorders 803 Estimated prevalence of iodinedeficiency disorders in developing countries, by region and numbers of persons at risk 806 Normal hematological values for the more common iron indexes 814 Comparison of laboratory values of anemia of dietary iron deficiency and anemia of chronic disease 815 Types of disorders associated with iron overload 818 Morphological classification of anemia 820 Some important dates with reference to magnesium 826 Year of first application of different procedures for measuring magnesium in biological materials 826

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IV.B.4.3.

IV.B.4.4. IV.B.4.5.

IV.B.4.6. IV.B.5.1.

IV.C.1.1. IV.C.2.1.

IV.C.2.2.

IV.C.2.3.

IV.C.3.1. IV.C.3.2.

IV.C.3.3. IV.C.3.4.

IV.C.3.5.

IV.C.3.6.

IV.C.3.7. IV.C.3.8.

IV.C.3.9. IV.C.3.10.

xxi Causes of human magnesium deficiency and year of their first description Generally accepted symptoms and signs of magnesium deficiency Additional symptoms and signs attributed to magnesium deficiency by some authors Magnesium intake in the modernday world Content of phosphorus and calcium in commonly consumed foods in mg per serving Unsaturated fatty acids Reproduction of the final summary of the rat’s requirements for amino acids, as determined by Rose and colleagues in 1948 The World Health Organization (1985) estimates of human requirements for protein and selected amino acids, by age The typical protein concentrations of a variety of foods (edible portions only) expressed as “protein calories as a percentage of total calories” Energy exchange in humans: An example from Atwater and Benedict Food availability data for industrialized and developing countries. Data for 1994 The principal dietary carbohydrates Equations for predicting basal metabolic rate from body weight and age Physical activity levels suggested to estimate total daily energy expenditure from the mean basal metabolic rate of children, adolescents, and adults Early protein and energy intakes from Europe and America with requirement estimates International food energy requirements (1950–96) Distribution of food energy, fat, and protein in the various world regions Summary of nonessential amino acid biosynthesis in mammals Other functions of some amino acids

827 829

829 832

836 879

885

886

887 891

893 893

895

897

898 898

899 903 903

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Tables, Figures, and Maps

xxii IV.C.3.11.

IV.C.3.12. IV.C.3.13. IV.C.3.14.

IV.C.3.15. IV.C.3.16.

IV.C.3.17.

IV.C.3.18.

IV.C.3.19. IV.D.3.1.

IV.D.3.2.

IV.D.3.3.

IV.D.3.4.

IV.D.3.5.

IV.D.3.6.

Fate of the nitrogen and the carbon atoms in the degradation of the amino acids for energy Recommended scoring patterns, 1950–91 International protein recommendation (1936–96) Summary of some recent committee recommendations for practical protein allowances in various age groups FAO/WHO/UNU (1985) safe levels of protein intake Factorial approach for human protein requirements: Adapted from FAO/WHO (1973) Amino acid composition of major food groups from the Massachusetts Nutrient Data Bank Mean values per capita for the availability of specific indispensable amino acids in developed and developing regions. Data for 1994 A proposed classification using BMI (WT/HT 2 ) Keshan disease incidence and prognosis of seleniumsupplemented and control children (1–9 years old) in Mianning County during 1974–7 Keshan disease incidence in selenium-supplemented and control children (1–12 years old) in five counties of Sichuan Province during 1976–80 Selenium levels in human blood and hair from residents in Keshan disease–affected and nonaffected areas in 1972–3 Blood glutathione peroxidase (GPX) activities of children from Keshan disease–affected and nonaffected areas in 1975 Selenium contents of blood, hair, and grains in Keshan disease– affected and nonaffected areas Selenium contents and glutathione peroxidase (GPX) activities in tissues from patients with subacute Keshan disease and controls in affected or nonaffected areas

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IV.D.3.7. 904 905

IV.D.3.8.

906 IV.D.4.1. IV.D.7.1. 906 907

IV.E.3.1. IV.E.3.2. IV.E.4.1.

907 IV.E.5.1. IV.E.5.2. IV.E.6.1. 908 IV.E.7.1.

908

IV.E.7.2. IV.E.7.3.

909 IV.F.1.1.

942

IV.F.2.1. IV.F.4.1.

942

943

IV.F.4.2. V.A.1.

943

V.A.2. V.C.1.1.

943

V.C.1.2. V.C.1.3.

944

Indexes for oxidant defense capability in blood of children from Dechang and Mianning Counties in 1987 Comparison of selenium content in cereals and human hair between the 1970s and 1980s Threshold calcium intakes during growth The Wellcome classification of PEM Symptoms of food allergy Common allergenic foods Organisms causing food-borne disease The Type I allergic reaction Major food allergens Distribution of lactose phenotypes Prevalence of overweight (1980s–90s), based on Body Mass Index or weight for height references Prevalence of obesity Age-adjusted and age-specific prevalence of overweight (1960–91) A historical perspective on dietary recommendations for people with diabetes Chronic disease prevention and health promotion Correlation coefficients between age-compensated male mortality rates from ischaemic heart disease and the consumption of various foods in eight member countries of the Organization of Economic Cooperation and Development Sample data on which Table IV.F.4.1 is based Chronology of the Near East and Egypt Pharaonic Egypt Sources of information about diets in ancient Egypt Dietary intake in Crete in 1948 as estimated by three methods Percentage of total energy contributed by major food groups in the diet of Crete as compared to their availability in the food

945

946 957 978 1023 1024 1032 1049 1050 1060

1063 1064

1064

1080 1095

1116 1116 1124 1132 1194 1195

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Tables, Figures, and Maps

V.C.1.4.

V.C.1.5.

V.C.7.1. V.C.7.2. V.C.7.3. V.D.3.1.

V.D.3.2. V.D.3.3. V.D.3.4.

V.D.5.1. V.D.5.2. V.D.5.3. VI.3.1.

VI.3.2. VI.3.3.

VI.5.1.

VI.5.2.

VI.5.3.

VI.7.1.

supplies of Greece and the United States in 1948–9 Ancel and Margaret Keys’ 1959 dietary advice for the prevention of coronary heart disease compared to the 1995 U.S. dietary guidelines Suggestions for further historical and applied research on the health impact of Mediterranean diets Indexes of food consumption by collective farm workers Consumption of major foods, 1913–76 Food as a percentage of family expenditure, 1940–90 Comparison of house-garden cultigens in native Amazonian and prehistoric West Indian gardens Fishes identified in Lucayan sites Return rates and resource rankings of Lucayan foods Garifuna ceremonial foods and the probable time of their introduction General chronological sequence List of scientific and common names for plants List of scientific and common names for animals 108 acute infections among 32 children ages 2 to 9 years observed in a “model” convalescent home in Guatemala City for 90 days Antimicrobial systems in the neutrophil Intake of calories in acute state, and 2 weeks and 8 weeks after recovery Changes in the heights of European army recruits circa 1900–1975 Median menarcheal age of girls in various European countries, 1950s–60s and 1970s–80s Average heights of selected groups of Indo-Mediterranean children at different periods Percentage of first-born infants ever breast-fed between 1951 and 1970 in the United States, by ethnic group and education

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VI.11.1. 1195 VI.13.1.

1197

VI.13.2. VI.15.1.

1201 1245 1245 1245

1264 1265 1267

1273 1288

VI.15.2. VI.16.1. VI.16.2. VI.16.3. VI.16.4. VI.16.5. VI.16.6. VI.16.7. VII.6.1.

1289 VII.6.2. 1290 VII.6.3.

1398 1399 VII.6.4. 1404

1429

VII.7.1. VII.7.2.

1430

1434

VII.7.3. VII.7.4.

1449

xxiii Psychological categorization of acceptance and rejection Selected forbidden foods: Leviticus (Hebrew source with English translations) BaTlokwa ba Moshaweng: Foods restricted by gender and age Ancient sexual stimulants and depressants Most commonly cited aphrodisiacs, 1546–1710 Past and present medicinal uses of flavorings and spices Past and present medicinal uses of fruits and nuts Past and present medicinal uses of vegetables Past and present medicinal uses of beverages Past and present medicinal uses of grains Past and present medicinal uses of gums and roots Past and present medicinal uses of miscellaneous foodstuffs Selected landmarks in the history of U.S. lobbying Selected examples of food lobbying groups A partial list of food and agriculture Political Action Committees (PACs) contributing to the 1989–90 election campaign of Senator Tom Harkin (D–IA), a member of the Appropriations and Agriculture, Nutrition and Forestry Committees Evolution of federal recommendations to reduce dietary fat through changes in meat consumption Theoretical and current applications of food biotechnology Key events in the history of the commercialization of food products of biotechnology in the United States Safety issues raised by food biotechnology The principal arguments for and against the patenting of transgenic animals

1478

1499 1505 1523 1527 1540 1540 1541 1541 1541 1541 1541 1631 1633

1634

1637 1644

1647 1648

1651

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Tables, Figures, and Maps

xxiv VII.7.5. VII.7.6.

VII.8.1. VII.8.2.

VII.8.3. VII.9.1. VII.11.1.

Public perceptions of food biotechnology Analytical framework for predicting public acceptance of a food product of biotechnology Ranking food safety risks Summary of reported food-borne disease outbreaks in the United States, 1983–7 Some natural pesticidal carcinogens in food Food additives and their functions Publications during 1930–90 relating to the nutritional significance of bioflavonoids and carnitine

I.1.13. 1653 I.2.1. 1654 1663

I.2.2.

1663

I.2.3.

1665 1671

I.2.4. I.2.5.

1687

Figures I.1.1.

I.1.2.

I.1.3.

I.1.4. I.1.5. I.1.6. I.1.7.

I.1.8.

I.1.9.

I.1.10.

I.1.11.

I.1.12.

I.2.6a. Temporal changes in mean values of δ13C of prehistoric eastern North American Indians Scanning electron micrographs of prehistoric hunter–gatherer molar and historic agriculturalist molar from the southeastern U.S. Atlantic coast Views of mandibular dentitions showing agriculturalist and hunter–gatherer wear planes Lingual wear on anterior teeth of prehistoric Brazilian Indian Dental carious lesion in maxillary molar from historic Florida Indian Growth curves from Dickson Mounds, Illinois, Indian population Micrograph showing hypermineralized rings within an osteon from prehistoric Nubian Radiograph and section of prehistoric California Indian femur with Harris lines Juvenile anterior dentition showing hypoplasias on incompletely erupted incisors Micrograph of canine tooth showing Wilson band from Native American Libben site Femora and tibiae of nineteenthcentury black American showing limb bone deformation due to rickets Porotic hyperostosis on prehistoric Peruvian Indian posterior cranium

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17

I.2.6b.

II.A.3.1. 18 II.A.6.1. 19

II.A.10.1.

19

II.A.10.2.

20

II.B.6.1. II.C.4.1. II.C.6.1. II.C.6.2. II.C.6.3. II.C.6.4. II.C.6.5.

21

22

23

24

25

II.C.6.6. II.C.6.7. II.C.6.8. II.C.6.9. II.C.6.10.

26 II.C.6.11. 27

Cribra orbitalia in historic Florida Indian External view of the maxilla of a child about 6 years of age at the time of death Right sphenoid and adjacent bone surfaces of case seen in Figure I.2.1 Orbital roof of case seen in Figure I.2.1 Inner table of the frontal bone of case seen in Figure I.2.1 Right lateral view of the ninth through the twelfth thoracic vertebrae from the skeleton of a male about 45 years of age at the time of death Photomicrograph of a bone section from the femur of the burial seen in Figure I.2.5 Photomicrograph of a microradiograph of the bone section seen in Figure I.2.6a Flow diagram of two buckwheat mills: (A) roller mill; (B) stoneroller mill Flow diagram of typical oat-milling sequence Related wheats and goat-faced grasses Photograph of the Nahal Hemar sickle Different types of taros Cross-section of a pepper Netted cantaloupe fruit Casaba melon Juan Canary melon Santa Claus melon Pistillate and staminate cucumber flowers Cucumbers Gynoecious, parthenocarpic greenhouse cucumbers Variation in watermelon fruit size, shape, and color and flesh color Seedless watermelon with seeded watermelon ‘Jubilee’ watermelon developed by J. M. Crall, University of Florida, in 1963 Watermelon seedlings grafted by machine onto Fusarium-resistant rootstocks in Japan

27

37

38 38 38

40

41

41

96 128 166 167 220 286 299 300 301 301 302 302 303 303 304

308

309

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Tables, Figures, and Maps II.C.6.12. II.C.6.13.

II.C.6.14. II.C.6.15. II.C.8.1. II.C.8.2.

II.C.8.3. II.C.8.4. II.C.8.5. II.C.8.6. II.C.8.7. II.C.8.8. II.C.8.9. II.C.8.10. II.C.8.11. II.C.8.12.

II.C.8.13. II.E.1.1. II.E.1.2. II.E.1.3. II.E.1.4. II.E.1.5. II.E.3.1. II.F.2.1. II.F.2.2. II.F.2.3. II.G.3.1. II.G.3.2.

Melons for sale as special gifts in Kyoto, Japan Low, supported row covers for watermelon production in Daiei, Japan NMR watermelon quality determination in Japan Watermelon for sale in Japan at U.S. $50 Cucurbita moschata Seeds of Cucurbita pepo, C. moschata, C. argyrosperma, and ‘Silverseed Gourd’ ‘Butternut’, a “bell squash” cultivar of Cucurbita moschata An unusual “acorn squash” of Cucurbita pepo ‘Delicata’ (Cucurbita pepo) Various small-fruited cultivars of Cucurbita pepo ‘Turk’s Turban’ (Cucurbita maxima) ‘Buttercup’, a “turban squash” of Cucurbita maxima A “hubbard squash” of Cucurbita maxima Mature fruit of Cucurbita argyrosperma ssp. sororia ‘Seminole Pumpkin’ (Cucurbita moschata) Wild Cucurbita pepo ssp. ovifera var. ozarkana from a riparian site in the Mississippi Valley Wild spp. ovifera var. texana, ‘Mandan’ and wild ssp. fraterna The structure of common sterols Production estimates for important fats and oils Operations in soybean oil extraction and refining Tocopherol composition of soybean oil Effects of overfishing in Pacific sardine fishery, 1918–60 World production of palm oil, 1910–90 Centrifugal sugar; world production A Caribbean sugar factory Oxen drawing a cart of cane, with mill in background Camelus dromedarius Camelus bactrianus

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II.G.4.1. 310 II.G.4.2. 310 312 312 338

339

II.G.7.1. II.G.8.1.

II.G.8.2.

340 340 341 341 342

II.G.8.3.

II.G.9.1. II.G.22.1. II.G.22.2.

343 343 344 345

II.G.23.1. II.G.23.2.

II.G.23.3.

346

II.G.23.7.

346 376

II.G.24.1. IV.A.1.1.

376

IV.A.1.2.

377 IV.A.6.1. 381 386

IV.A.6.2. IV.A.6.3.

406

IV.B.2.1.

440 441 IV.B.2.2. 443 468 469

IV.B.2.3.

xxv Seasonal variation in the fat content of caribou A spring drying rack for caribou meat used by the Nunamiut Eskimo of the Brooks Range, northern Alaska Structure of the chicken egg Intentional burials of domestic dogs and humans from the Neolithic in China. Xiawanggang c. 4,000 B.P. Indian dogs, 2,000 years old, early Basketmaker. Natural mummies from White Dog Cave, Marsh Pass, Arizona Typical long-legged Basketmaker domestic dogs, Canis familiaris, from the vicinity of Marsh Pass, Arizona, 2,000 B.P. The mallard duck Early pueblo domestic turkeys The dog and the turkey: The only two domestic animals of the southwestern pueblos upon the arrival of the Europeans The domesticated water buffalo Wild buffalo in Assam, with typical riparian and tall-grass habitat depicted Depictions of water buffalo on seal-amulets from Mohenjo-daro Depictions of water buffaloes on cylinder seals from Mesopotamia Domesticated yak Chemical structure of all-transretinol and all-trans-beta-carotene A postulated mechanism for the pathogenesis of keratomalacia in vitamin A deficiency The vitamin K–dependent carboxylase reaction An outline of the clotting sequence The vitamin K–dependent anticoagulant system “The Reun cretin,” from the Reun Model Book, produced by the Cistercian Abbey at Reun, Austria, thirteenth century Madonna and child by Francesco di Gentili, fifteenth century A dwarfed cretin from Xingjiang China, who is also deaf-mute

483

485 503

509

510

511 521 580

582 584

584 594 597 609 741

747 777 778 779

798 799 802

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xxvi

Tables, Figures, and Maps

The results of a controlled trial of iodized oil injection in the Jimi River district of the highlands of Papua New Guinea IV.B.2.5. Nodular goiter in a New Guinean before and three months after injection of iodized oil IV.B.5.1. Approximate percentage contributions of the major food groups to the consumption of phosphorus IV.B.5.2a. Median phosphorus and calcium consumption of females in the United States IV.B.5.2.b. The dietary calcium to phosphorus ratio of females across the life cycle IV.B.5.3. Schematic diagram of phosphorus balance of an adult male IV.B.5.4. Mechanism through which a low dietary calcium:phosphorus ratio contributes to the development of a persistently elevated parathyroid hormone (PTH) concentration in the blood IV.B.5.5. Comparison of parathyroid hormone (PTH) responses of normal and high dietary phosphorus and effects of PTH on bone mass IV.B.6.1. The Na+-K+-ATPase transmembrane pump pumping Na+ ions out of the cell and K+ ions into the cell IV.C.1.1. Desaturation, elongation, and chain shortening of families of unsaturated fatty acids IV.C.1.2. Conversion of arachidonic acid into eicosanoids IV.C.3.1. The Atwater bomb calorimeter IV.C.3.2. An overview of the combustion of fuels for energy IV.C.3.3. Metabolism of dietary protein IV.C.3.4. Metabolic pathways for the amino acids IV.D.3.1. The incidence, mortality, and casefatality of Keshan disease in China IV.D.4.1. Causal connections of some of the major factors influencing bone strength IV.D.4.2. Schematic illustration of the relationship between body depletion of a nutrient and health status

IV.D.4.3.

IV.B.2.4.

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803

807

835

IV.D.4.4. IV.D.4.5. IV.D.7.1. IV.D.7.2. IV.E.2.1. IV.F.4.1.

837

837 840

V.C.7.1. V.D.3.1. VI.3.1.

841 VI.3.2. 842

845

VII.6.1. VII.7.1.

879 VII.11.1. 880 892 VII.11.2. 893 902 905

953 955 956 978 980 1009

1117 1246 1261

1399

1400 1630

1948

1691

1691

Maps II.A.1.1.

940 II.A.1.2. 951 II.A.7.1. 952

Relationship of calcium intake, absorption efficiency, and net absorption Threshold behavior of calcium intake Relationship of calcium intake to calcium balance in adolescents Marasmus Kwashiorkor Evolutionary factors combine to produce celiac disease Male coronary mortality in the 65–74 age group in OECD countries and the consumption of milk proteins (excluding cheese) Pure alcohol consumption per person over 15 years old, 1955–79 Isotopic reconstruction of Lucayan consumption Cutaneous delayed hypersensitivity to 5 t.u. tuberculin related to serum transferrin concentration in patients with pulmonary tuberculosis Serum C3 levels correlated with infection-morbidity indicated by the number of days of fever Meat and dairy groups approved of the 1958 Basic Four Food and Drug Administration policy guidelines for regulation of foods developed through biotechnology Eighteenth-century description of scurvy which includes fatigue and lassitude Another eighteenth-century description of scurvy suggestive of carnitine deficiency

Mexico: Localities and regions where grain amaranth cultivation is indicated South America: Localities and regions where grain amaranth cultivation is indicated Extent of wild relatives and spread of ecogeographic races of O. sativa in Asia and Oceania

77

79

137

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Tables, Figures, and Maps II.A.10.1. II.A.10.2.

II.A.10.3.

II.A.10.4.

II.A.10.5. II.G.3.1. II.G.3.2. II.G.23.1.

The Ancient Near East showing sites mentioned in the text The Near East with modern “hilly flanks” and Mediterranean woodlands Geographic distribution of wild einkorn wheat, Triticum boeoticum Geographic distribution of wild emmer wheat, Triticum dicoccoides Geographic distribution of goat-faced grass, Aegilops tauchii The approximate modern distribution of camels Archaeological sites mentioned in the text World distribution of water buffalo

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II.G.23.2. 159 II.G.23.3. 160 II.G.23.4. 169

169 170

II.G.23.5. IV.B.2.1.

IV.B.4.1.

470 477 587

V.A.1. V.D.5.1.

xxvii Buffalo in Pleistocene and Early Holocene (Paleolithic) of southern and eastern Asia Recent distribution of wild buffaloes Buffalo in Neolithic and Metal Age sites Tribal groups practicing buffalo sacrifice The distribution of iodinedeficiency disorders in developing countries Magnesia and its colonies in Asia Minor. The migration of Magnetes during the twelfth and eleventh centuries B.C. The world of Pharaonic Egypt The Eastern Woodlands

590 592 595 599

806

825 1131 1292

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 __________________________ CONTRIBUTORS

__________________________

Sheldon Aaronson Department of Biology Queens College – CUNY Flushing, New York

Eva Barlösius Institut für Agrarpolitik, Marktforschung und Wirtschaftssoziologie der Universität Bonn Bonn, Germany

Edmund Abaka Department of History University of Miami Miami, Florida

Stephen V. Beck Department of History Bowling Green State University Bowling Green, Ohio

H. Leon Abrams, Jr. Consulting Anthropologist Bloomfield, New Jersey

Stephen Beckerman Department of Anthropology Pennsylvania State University University Park, Pennsylvania

Kenneth Albala Department of History University of the Pacific Stockton, California

Dorothea Bedigian Antioch College Yellow Springs, Ohio

John J. B. Anderson Department of Nutrition University of North Carolina Chapel Hill, North Carolina

Thomas G. Benedek Department of Medicine University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Jean Andrews Department of Botany University of Texas Austin, Texas

K. G. Berger Technical Consultant – Oils and Fats Chiswick London, England

Allan W. Austin Department of History University of Cincinnati Cincinnati, Ohio

Roger Blench Overseas Development Institute London, England

J. Allen Barksdale American Culture Studies Bowling Green State University Bowling Green, Ohio

Clarke Brooke Department of Geography Portland State University Portland, Oregon

xxix

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xxx

Contributors

Phillip A. Cantrell, III Department of History West Virginia University Morgantown, West Virginia

Johanna Dwyer Frances Stern Nutrition Center New England Medical Center Boston, Massachusetts

Kenneth J. Carpenter Department of Nutritional Sciences University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California

Colin Emmins Freelance writer and researcher West Ealing London, England

Te-Tzu Chang International Rice Research Institute Tamshui Taipei, Taiwan

J. Worth Estes Department of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics Boston University School of Medicine Boston, Massachusetts

Peter R. Cheeke Department of Animal Sciences Oregon State University Corvallis, Oregon

K. T. H. Farrer Consultant in Food Science and Technology Chandler’s Ford Hants, England

Mark N. Cohen Department of Anthropology State University of New York Plattsburgh, New York

Antoinette Fauve-Chamoux Commission Internationale de Démographie Historique Paris, France

James Comer Department of History Bowling Green State University Bowling Green, Ohio

Robert C. Field Department of History Bowling Green State University Bowling Green, Ohio

Carole M. Counihan Department of Sociology and Anthropology Millersville University of Pennsylvania Millersville, Pennsylvania

Daniel W. Gade Department of Geography University of Vermont Burlington, Vermont

Deena S. Decker-Walters The Cucurbit Network P.O. Box 560483 Miami, Florida

J. H. Galloway Department of Geography University of Toronto Toronto, Canada

J. M. J. de Wet University of Illinois Champaign-Urbana Urbana, Illinois

Sally M. Grantham-McGregor Institute of Child Health University College London London, England

Harold H. Draper Department of Nutritional Sciences University of Guelph Guelph, Ontario Canada

Clarence E. Grim Division of Cardiology Medical College of Wisconsin Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Darna L. Dufour Department of Anthropology University of Colorado at Boulder Boulder, Colorado

Louis E. Grivetti Department of Nutrition University of California, Davis Davis, California

Frederick L. Dunn Department of Epidemiology and Biostatistics University of California School of Medicine San Francisco, California

Barbara Haber Curator of Books, Schlesinger Library Radcliffe College Cambridge, Massachusetts

Jacqueline L. Dupont Department of Nutrition Florida State University Tallahassee, Florida

Lawrence Haddad Food Consumption and Nutrition Division International Food Policy Research Institute Washington, D.C.

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