FASHION POSITIVE INITIATIVE Fashion Positive Priority Materials & the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Standard

WELCOME!

PLUS MEMBER COLLABORATIVE Transforming Fashion, one material at a time. PLUS is a community of pioneering brands, designers, and suppliers collaborating to catalyze systems change in the fashion industry by transforming fashion … one material at a time. PLUS Members will grow and utilize the Fashion Positive Materials Collection, a library of strategically important Cradle to Cradle Certified™ building block materials for apparel. The Fashion Positive Materials Collection is the foundation for circular apparel. We enable positive fashion from the bottom up.

FASHION POSITIVE PRIORITY MATERIALS LIST • Acid dyes for nylon • Acid dyes for protein fibers • Algae and microalgae-based dyes for use with biological fibers • Basic dyes for technical fibers • Buttons • Chemically recycled fibers • Direct dyes for cellulosics • Disperse dyes for synthetics • Manufactured biological silk protein • Nylon (Nylon 6 and 6,6)/Recycled Nylon • Pigments for biological fibers • Polyester (PET)/Recycled PET

• Polyethylene • Polypropylene • Reactive dyes for cellulosics and protein fibers • Silk • Spandex / Elastane • Waterless dyes for synthetic fibers with removability • Velcro • Zinc, steel or stainless steel hooks, clasps, rivets and snaps • Zippers

VOLUME COLLABORATION FOR IMPACT PLUS Members work with Fashion Positive leadership to: • Identify pre-competitive materials shared amongst PLUS Members based on volume. • Contribute to material workstreams which will prepare materials for the Fashion Positive Materials Collection. This is good because: • Collective and coordinated action decreases costs and time of determining “sustainable" or circular materials on our own. • Together we can rapidly scale and accelerate the use of better base materials and transform our industry.

Cradle To Cradle Product Certification Overview

THE ORIGINS OF CRADLE TO CRADLE CERTIFIED™ William McDonough and Michael Braungart, 2002

DESIGNED FOR CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT

The path to fully optimized products…

MULTI-ATTRIBUTE STANDARD

SOCIAL FAIRNESS Respect for human and natural systems

RENEWABLE ENERGY & CARBON MANAGEMENT Power with abundant clean energy

WATER STEWARDSHIP Treat water as a precious resource

MATERIAL HEALTH Select safe and healthy materials

MATERIAL HEALTH: PROCESS Screen

Inventory

Assess

Optimize

•

Screen – What’s NOT in it? • Ensure product/material is free of a list of bad chemicals (C2C banned chemical list)

•

Inventory – What IS in it? • Depth of inventory: 100 ppm in most cases

•

Assess – What is the risk? • Hazard x Exposure = Risk

•

Optimize – Design to eliminate risk • Reformulate, innovate

SCREEN: BANNED CHEMICALS PVC, PVDC, CPVC, polychloroprene Metals: Arsenic, cadmium, chromium VI, Mercury, Lead* (Biological nutrient threshold = maximum background soil concentration) Flame Retardants: HBCD, PBDEs, TBBPA, TDCPP/”TRIS” Phthalates: DEHP, BBP, DBP Chlorinated hydrocarbons: chlorobenzenes, PCBs, short-chained chlorinated paraffins Pentachlorophenol Nonyl- and octylphenols, nonyl- and octylphenol ethoxylates Organotins PTFE* (Banned in TN’s if primary component of product or material) PFOA, PFOS PAHs* *On the Biological Nutrient banned list but not the Technical Nutrient list

AVOIDING CHEMICALS ON BANNED LISTS ≠ SOLUTION Avoiding known problems is not a guaranteed solution. Only avoiding chemicals on banned lists can lead to regrettable substitutions.

ASSESS: HAZARD, EXPOSURE & RISK Step 1 – Hazard assessment: For each chemical, classify the hazards associated with 24 human and environmental health endpoints. Each endpoint receives a RED/YELLOW/GREEN/GREY hazard rating. Step 2 – Exposure assessment: Complete an exposure assessment relevant to the context in which the product is made, used and reused. Is exposure plausible? YES/NO Step 3 – Risk rating (chemical): Overlay hazard and exposure information to assign a risk flag first to each of the 24 endpoints and then to the chemical overall by carrying up the worst case risk rating across all endpoints: abc-x or grey Step 4 – Risk assessment (material): Carry the worst risk rating across all chemicals in a material up: ABC-X or GREY

ASSESS HAZARD: THE 24 ENDPOINTS • • • • • • • • • • •

Carcinogenicity Endocrine Disruption Mutagenicity Reproductive Toxicity Oral Toxicity Dermal Toxicity Inhalative Toxicity Single Organ Toxicity Neurotoxicity Sensitization of Skin and Airways Skin, Eye and Respiratory Corrosion/Irritation

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

Acute Fish Toxicity Acute Daphnia Toxicity Acute Algae Toxicity Chronic Fish Toxicity Chronic Daphnia Toxicity Chronic Algae Toxicity Terrestrial Toxicity Persistence Bioaccumulation Climatic Relevance Organohalogens Toxic Metals Other

Strategy to optimize GREY and X-assessed materials

No GREY or X-assessed materials

MATERIAL REUTILIZATION Design to eliminate the concept of “waste”

EMULATING NATURAL CYCLES

Biological Nutrients

Technical Nutrients

MATERIAL REUTILIZATION SCORE (% of the product considered recyclable, biodegradable x or compostable)

2+

(% recycled or rapidly renewable content)

3 Bronze Silver Gold Platinum

Reutilization score is ≥ 35 Reutilization score is ≥ 50 Reutilization score is ≥ 65 Reutilization score is 100

x 100

REUTILIZATION IN CONTEXT % recyclable, biodegradable or compostable

% recycled or rapidly renewable content

Score

Level Achieved

0

100

33

Basic

100

0

67

Gold

• If a material contains 100% recycled content but is not itself recyclable, the product would not quite reach BRONZE. • A product that is fully recyclable but does not contain any recycled content would have a score of 67, just above GOLD

ANNIE GULLINGSRUD Director of Textiles & Apparel, Fashion Positive

Priority Material Recycled Polyester

RPET What are the challenges for RPET from a C2C perspective? • We cycle contamination. • RPET is contaminated with a suspected carcinogen, antimony trioxide •

Mechanical recycling does not rid antimony from the fiber, which means that it still remains as residue on the final fiber.

RPET How can rPET be improved to meet the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard? • Clean the input stream. Circular materials for Circular Fashion • Support technologies that remove contamination from polyester

RPET Why is current availability of circular rPET not good enough? • There is no circular RPET.

RPET What can we do about rPET as a community of practice? • Incentivize suppliers to develop and offer circular rPET. • Increase industry access to and market demand for truly circular rPET.

JOHN EASTON Brand & Retail Sustainability Advisor at DyStar

Priority Material Dyes

DYES What are some challenges for dyes from a C2C perspective? • Historically, dyes have been designed to be color safe, not socially or environmentally safe. And certainly not designed to be recycled. • More recently dyers have begun evaluating dyes from chemical constituent standpoint and environmental effect. • Stricter criteria in molecules and chemicals means less choice of dyes …until innovation within principals of regenerative design comes online.

DYES MEETING THE C2C STANDARD Dyes in the Fashion Positive Materials Collection • Short ranges of reactive and vat dyes for cotton and disperse dyes for polyester are available. • Selected DyStar dyes recently received a Material Health Certificate at the GOLD-Level • Indigo pre-reduced liquid for denim is also included under the Material Health Certificate at the GOLD-Level

DYES What might be the social & environmental impact of improving dyes? •

Safer handling in dyeing factories

•

Reduced pollution load

•

Durability & fast fashion

DYES What can we do about dyes as a community of practice? What can we do to invent and accelerate solutions? •

Supply Chain Collaboration

•

Create demand for C2C dyes

•

Start with what we’ve got

•

Fund new approaches to R&D

JENNIFER GILBERT Chief Marketing Officer, I:CO Priority Material Spandex / Elastane

SPANDEX/ELASTANE What are the material health challenges with spandex/elastane? • Spandex is a copolymer made using an input monomer called diisocyanate. • Residual isocyanates remain in the final spandex; high to low levels depending on the quality of manufacturing process • Sensitizers of skin and airways - Repetitive exposure even in small amounts could cause a person to become more sensitive and more likely to have an allergic reaction when exposed to this substance again in the future.

SPANDEX/ELASTANE What about bio-based and biodegradable spandex/elastane?

SPANDEX/ELASTANE What are the material reutilization challenges with spandex/elastane?

PRIORITY MATERIALS MATTER • PLUS is the the dream team working on all these questions and ideas for circular fashion materials. • Volume Collaboration will give PLUS Members combined leverage with suppliers and result in the greatest impact for our cause.

PLUS MEMBERSHIP ANNUAL DUES Revenues exceeding $10 billion $1 billion - $10 billion $100 million - $1 billion $20 million - $100 million Revenues less than $20 million

CALENDAR $50,000 $40,000 $20,000 $15,000 $7,500

TO GET IN TOUCH ABOUT PLUS

September – December: Pledge to join in 2017 ******** November 15 Webinar (open to all): Accelerating Big Change in Fashion Materials with Volume Collaboration

Complete the contact form on our website. www.fashionpositive.org/plus

Week of March 7, 2017 (date tbd): C2C Workshop @ Parsons May 9, 2017: PLUS in-person working day @ Copenhagen Fashion Summit

LEARN MORE: NOVEMBER WEBINAR

ACCELERATING CIRCULAR FASHION MATERIALS WITH VOLUME COLLABORATION Attend our NOVEMBER 15 webinar for a deep dive into Fashion Positive’s Volume Collaboration Methodology and learn how PLUS Members will shape material workstreams. Webinar registration link will go out to you via your email and will be posted to fashionpositive.org/plus.

Thank you.