ExxonMobil Chemical Synthetics Division Chemistries for Personal Care PureSyn™ Polyalphaolefins (PAO)
pH Stability of PureSyn™ PAO High Purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids Do not react with acid or base Stable across entire pH range Ideal for formulations containing: AHA/BHA (Anti-aging products) Strong Bases (Hair relaxers)
Non-Comedogenic All of the PureSynTM PAO and Ester products are non-comedogenic. Will not clog pores Also non-irritating Substitute for petrolatum and other comedogenic emollients, for example • • • •
isopropyl myristate oleyl alcohol safflower oil others
Oil-Free Formulations PureSyn PAO has a hydrocarbon structure with some properties similar to mineral oil. Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can have an oil-free distinction. Ingredient list on the formulated product package would have INCI designation: Hydrogenated polydecene Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers Polydecene
Broad range of Spreadability PureSynTM PAO and Esters PureSyn products cover the entire range of spreadability. From very fast to slow
Formulations can be designed with cascading effects by combining components. May enhance sunscreen performance by providing tailored spreading on skin. Wide range of emollient properties.
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Reduction (PureSynTM PAO and Esters) Certain PureSynTM products significantly reduce TEWL; comparable to petrolatum. Higher molecular weights provide most protection
Provide water retention in skin and barrier protection. May enhance retention of active ingredients in upper skin layers.
Solubility Profiles Allow Significant Formulation Flexibility PureSynTM PAO and Esters Broad spectrum of solubility in a range of commonly used cosmetic substances. Including organic sunscreen active ingredients
Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3 May be matched to sunscreen active ingredients
Selected products have silicone compatibility, especially with dimethicones. May lead to: improved aesthetics reduced silicone in formulation
Can be used as carrier fluids and solubilizers.
Other Key Personal Care Characteristics PureSynTM PAO and Esters Non-greasy with good skin feel Provide emolliency Possess glossing characteristics May provide water resistance properties Film formation Will not suppress foam like silicones
PolyAlphaOlefins (PAO) Synthetic high performance functional fluids Hydrogenated (saturated) olefin polymers Manufactured by the catalytic oligomerization of linear alphaolefins having 8 or more carbon atoms Wax-free combination of relatively unbranched (compared to mineral oil) molecules of predetermined chain length
PAO Chemistry Linear Oligomerization Alphaolefins
Hydrogenation
PAO
PAO Chemistry - Oligomerization H2C
CH C 2H 5
H2C
CH
H2C
CH
n-C 4H 9
Dimers Trimers Tetramers n-C 8H 17 Pentamers CH H2C Hexamers n-C 10H 21 Heptamers CH H2C Octomers . n-C 12H 25 . CH H2C . n-C 14H 30 . 1-C18=, 1-20=, 1-C22=....... . Linear Alphaolefin n-C 6H 13
H2C
H2C
CH 2
Ethylene
CH
Polyalphaolefins
PAO Chemistry - Hydrogenation
H
Hydrogen
H
New PAO Technology
Conventional PureSyn™ PAO Average Side Chain of 6-7 carbons
New, Patented PureSyn™ PAO Average Side Chain of 8 carbons
PureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties Properties
Method
2
4
6
Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC
D 4052
0.798
0.820
0.827
6
30
50
Brookfield Viscosity @ 25oC, cPs
Est.
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt
D 445
1.7
4.1
5.7
@ 40°C, cSt
D 445
5.0
18
30
Viscosity Index
D 2270
NA
131
134
Pour Point, °C
D 97
-66
-63
-54
Flash Point, °C
D 92
154
221
243
Color, APHA
D 1209
10
10
10
PureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties Properties
Method
Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052
150
300
0.850
0.852
2900
6200
Brookfield Viscosity @ 25oC, cPs
Est.
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt
D 445
150
300
@ 40°C, cSt
D 445
1,500
3,100
Viscosity Index
D 2270
218
241
Pour Point, °C
D 97
-33
-27
Flash Point, °C
D 92
>265
>265
Color, APHA
D 1209
30
30
CTFA INCI Nomenclature PureSyn™ 2 - 6, 150 - 300 = Hydrogenated C6-14 Polyalphaolephins
CTFA = Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association INCI = International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient name
Japanese Registration - JSCI Codes Product
Japan Code
Japan Ingredient Name
PureSyn™ 2
N/A
N/A
PureSyn 4
502029
Alpha-olefin Oligomer
PureSyn 6
502029
Alpha-olefin Oligomer
PureSyn 100 – 300
N/A
N/A
PureSyn™ PAO Benefits Can be variously characterized as: High purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids Wide viscosity range of products Stable in high and low pH systems Non-oily, Non-greasy Broad spreadability range Non-comedogenic Bright and clear Non-irritating
PureSyn™ PAO Functions May be well-suited for use as: Emollients/Lubricants Water resistant agents Occlusive barrier for moisturization Film formers Stable carrier fluids Solubilizers Glossing Agents
PureSyn™ PAO Personal Care Formulations Can be readily incorporated into: Cosmetics AHA/BHA Products Lotions and Creams Sunscreens Moisturizers
Hair Relaxers Antiperspirant/ Deodorants Gels Water-in Oil Emulsions
Additional PureSyn™ PAO Properties Solubilities Solubility Parameters Lin Water solubilization Carbomer dispersion Surface tension Refractive Index HLB (Required) values
Definition of Solubility Parameter • The solubility parameter is an indicator of the solubility characteristics of one material with another. • It is the square root of the cohesive energy density (cal/cc)0.5. This parameter gives an accurate estimation of the interaction energies in many diverse systems. • It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic materials in formulated products. • The solubility parameter of a particular material can be directly measured by a variety of methods or it can be calculated • The parameter can be calculated by adding up the component parts and then used to predict possible uses, probable substitutions and potential problem interactions. • A general guideline is that if the solubility parameters for two or more materials are within +/- 1.5 (cal/cc)0.5, they are miscible.
PureSyn™ PAO - Solubility Parameters: Fedors Correlation Product
Solubility Parameter (cal/cc)0.5
PureSyn 2
7.99
PureSyn 4
8.09
PureSyn 6
8.14
PureSyn 150
8.38
PureSyn 300
8.38
PureSyn™ PAO Surface Tension Measurements Product
Dynes/cm (24° C)
PureSyn 2
28.0
PureSyn 4
29.1
PureSyn 6
29.8
PureSyn 150
30.7
PureSyn 300
30.4
Measurement Procedure; PureSyn 2 - 100; Wilhelmy Plate Method PureSyn 150 - 3000; Spinning Drop Method
PureSyn™ PAO Refractive Indices Product
@ 25oC
PureSyn 2
1.4418
PureSyn 4
1.4535
PureSyn 6
1.4565
PureSyn 150
1.4695
PureSyn 300
1.4707
Mineral Oils
1.4670-1.4900
PureSyn™ PAO Potential Attributes in Personal Care Applications • Provide a broad range of spreadability values that may be used to customize skin feel. • Stable over a broad pH range for easy formulation of acidic alpha- and beta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high pH hair relaxers. • Compatible with a wide range of personal care ingredients including certain sunscreen active ingredients and silicones. • Can be readily incorporated into a broad range of skin and hair care formulations. • Provide barrier protection (high molecular weight/ high viscosity PAO) in skin care applications by significantly reducing transepidermal water loss.
PureSyn™ PAO (2-6) ExxonMobil PureSyn polyalphaolefins (PAO) are a unique class of premium fluids whose features set them apart from other hydrocarbon fluids such as mineral oils, petrolatum and polybutene. PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids that can be variously characterized as: Non-comedogenic Non-irritating Odorless Stable in high and low pH systems When combined with other personal care ingredients, PureSyn PAO may impart a non-greasy or non-oily feel.
Antiperspirant Stick with PureSyn™ 3E20 Phase A A A
Ingredient DC 245 Fluid Hansicone Ultrabee PureSyn 3E20
INCI Designation Cyclomethicone Dimethiconol Beeswax Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
A
Stearyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
A
Crodafos CES
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate
A A A B B
Peg 6000 Distearate Myrj 59 Synchrowax Erl-C Cabosil M-5 Reach Azp 908 Suf
PEG-150 Distearate PEG-100 Stearate C 18-36 Acid Glycol Ester Silica Aluminum Zirconium, Tetrachlorohydrex GLY
C D
TALC 127 WC&D (Talc) Fragrance MF 8038
Talc Fragrance
Blending Procedure 1. Heat ingredients of phase A to 80°C 2. Stop heating and add phase B 3. Homomix while allowing to cool 4. Add remaining phases at 60°C 5. Pour at 55°C to 60°C
Wt% 40.25 5.00 5.00 18.00 0.50
2.00 2.00 1.00 0.75 24.00 1.00 0.50 100.00
Anhydrous Antiperspirant Roll-On with PureSyn™ 6 This anhydrous suspension roll-on antiperspirant applies smoothly to the skin. It is designed to leave a smooth talc-like feel Phase A A B C C D D
Ingredient DC 345 Fluid Bentone Gel VS-5 PC PureSyn 6 REZAL 36GP TALC 338 DC193 Surfactant Fragrance Total
INCI Designation Wt% Cyclomethicone 33.7 Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (and) 20 Propylene C Hydrogenated Polydecene 20 Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlohydex-Gly 20 Talc 2 Dimethicone Copolyol 4 Fragrance 0.3 100
Blending Procedure 1. Mix phase A using the Silverson at 3000 rpm with large head (approx. 3 mins.) 2. Add phase B & C 3. Mix phase D together and add to batch 4. Mix on Silverson until uniform