EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT ABOVE GROUND POOL LINER REPLACEMENT

INTRODUCTION PLAY ABOVE GROUND LLC, has been installing above ground pool liners for a quarter of a century and have learned every trick there is to learn when it comes to replacing beaded pool liners in above ground swimming pools. We have compiled this very detailed step by step guide to help anyone learn how to replace your own beaded above ground pool liner. This guide takes our popular online blog post “5 STEPS TO A SUCCESSFUL POOL LINER REPLACEMENT” and perfects it for any homeowner who thinks they might be able to replace their own pool liner themselves. Included you will find specialized email team and interactive page lists of what to look out for and troubleshooting for problems that may arise. Our guide makes it easier than anyone else has ever explained before. We know that you may be in the middle of replacement and need a question answered. This is what this guide, or interactive web page and email response teams are designed to help you with.

We are so confident you can do this that we have set up a special interactive web page with dedicated personal to help you during your replacement. We can guide anyone through the process daily from 8am-4pm eastern standard time and will also have liner replacement email address for getting answers within 24 hour time period. This guide, our human run web pages and email response team will get you the results you need when you need them. Go ahead and get started. We are here if you need us!

Before we dive into how to replace your pools beaded liner lets first talk about the weather, best time of year to replace your pools liner and warranty’s. We are starting with these three because it seems as though every liner problem situation that arises has something to do with weather, warranty and what time of year the liner was replaced. Let me talk a little about each one and see if we can straighten out any misconceptions.

Weather Needless to say no pool liner should be replaced in cold weather. It just doesn’t make sense to be out there in cold weather replacing anything to do with pools. Rule number one don’t do it under 55 degrees! The liner will not be able to stretch the way it needs to do. Rule number two is that if the temperature is above 55 and below 90 then it is perfectly fine to replace a pool’s liner. Temperature above 90 degrees will be difficult because liner will want to expand while in the sunlight. It becomes so big it is hard to size up properly. We will get to sizing in a little while but for now just remember to be very careful in higher temps.

Time of year In colder climates like New England there is a limited time frame for replacing a pool liner. As an above ground pool contractor we at Play Above Ground LLC on average start to replace liners in April and we continue to replace liners all the way into October. In warmer climates like Florida you can replace year round. So we say follow special rules number one and two from the weather category.

Warranties This is perhaps the most confusing part of the whole liner replacement process. Warranties can seem too good to be true and carry lots of stipulations in order to get coverage in place. First of all some manufacturers say you have to replace with their foam covings or they will not warranty new

liner. Most manufacturers have a rule that says that if the liner is thought to have a leak that it has to be at a seam in order to be warrantied. Some want you to place a liner shield (Armor Guard) under a

new liner for extra protective warranty. At Play Above Ground LLC we say all this warranty information is complete garbage. The fact is most manufactures don’t cover liner leaks of any kind unless they are on a seam. If they do cover a leak not on the seam it will take many months and make you extremely upset trying to hold them accountable. Very unfortunate if you have a leak but there are things you can-do to prevent the possibility of receiving such a liner. We will explain all throughout this guide what you should avoid. The biggest thing is to remember that most warranties aren’t worth the paper they are written on. The best solution when you have a faulty liner is going to be the place in which you purchased the liner or by the company who did the labor. At Play Above Ground LLC we understand how the whole process works and can help you avoid these precarious liner situations. Knowledge about the whole process will go a long way in saving time and money.

Section one: Pool Measuring: Once you determine that pool needs a new liner. Next you’ll need to measure the pool for a new liner.

If you have around pool, you will need to know the diameter and wall height. Oval and rectangle pools will require measurements for the length and width. You will also need to know information about the bottom of your pool. A standard floor has a covering (Floor Base where meets the wall) that is about 4 inches in height up the wall and 3 inches inward from the wall. Overlap lined pools tend to have larger coves and most overlap lined pools are built to fit universal overlap liners ranging from 48″-54″ in height.

Don’t Measure wall height on the inside! Measuring the wall’s height from the base of the bottom track to the top of the wall. Do not measure from inside the pool, always measure from the outside. Move any debris that may be in the way so you can measure from the base of the pool. Measure upward to underneath your pools top rail. This is your wall height. Next you will need the diameter, if your pool is round. Using the examples below, you will be able to determine the diameter of your round pool.

In this example, the pool has a total of 14 uprights. Since it is an even number you simply split that in half which is 7. So you mark the #1 upright and count 7 uprights over being careful not to count the first upright. Use a tape measure to determine the distance between the #1 upright and the #7 upright; this is your diameter of the pool.

In this example, the pool has 15 uprights. To get the halfway point you’ll need to first find the highest even number of uprights your pool has. In this example that number is 14. Simply count 7 uprights in either direction and be sure not to count the #1 upright when counting to the #7 upright. Use a tape measure to measure from the #1 upright to between the #7 upright and next upright which is the #8 upright. This is your pools diameter.

How to measure an oval pools length and width Notice in the pictures that sometimes your length measurement is from upright to upright and sometimes it is between two uprights.

Take your measurements from the inside of the pool wall near the top of the pool. Use a tape measure and measure from straight side to the other straight side (this is the width measurement) on the inside of the wall. Next

Use a tape measure from one curved end to the other curved end (this is the length dimension of your pool) in the center of the pool. Place the two dimensions together; this is your oval pools length by width measurements. Please note on oval pools: All manufacturers build there walls ion different lengths and have different upright locations. You might very well find for example that a 15’x30’ pool will measure 15’2”x30’4” and this is OK. This particular example the pool is 15’x30’ and you would get that size. If it is so far off that it makes sense to have next size then getting the next size is what you do. If it is between two standard sizes then chances are whomever built the pool to begin with did a lousy job and in this case you will need to rebuild pool.

So to recap a round above ground pool’s measurements you need the wall height, diameter and cove height. For an oval or rectangle you will need the wall height, length x width and cove height.

Section Two: Pool Inspection: Part of the process of changing your pool liner will involve inspecting the pool itself and doing this while talking measurements is the best time to do so. What good is buying the best fitting pool liner if the pool it goes into has a major problem? Even the best looking pools can have major problems lurking just past the naked eye. Take a pool like this one here. Looks great right? It’s with above ground pools like this one that can create the biggest problems.

When you have vegetation growing close to the pools wall you can end up having rust or rot issues because the greenery holds moisture close to the pools wall. You always want to check the wall in several places no matter what is growing around the pool. Also check under decks for issues. You never know what you might find. Next check out the bottom ends of the uprights to see if they are still attached with manufactured screws. Sometimes the screws can rust and break long before the pool’s uprights. With any kind of material on the outside of the wall can mask this issue. So take back whatever material you have and have a look. You need not check every single one. Check about 3 or 4 if they are good then chances are the rest will be too.

On Rusty screws: Before you can consider replacing your pool’s liner you will need to inspect your pool and see if it can accept a new liner without issue. Play Above Ground LLC makes this process easy. Start with removing some resin/plastic top caps and inspect the screws that hold down the top rails. Most screws are stainless in make-up and will look OK, good enough to loosen and take of rails. Other pools will have rusty looking steel screws or bolts. Take out your trusty cordless screw gun and or

hand screw driver and start turning a few screws. Your checking to see if they are not all bound up and not rusted into place. It is completely normal to have a few that are stuck in place. The pool that has almost all the screws rusted into place will prove to be a pool that would be better off being replaced instead of replacing liner. Most are OK and a day before replacement day arrives spray some WD-40 on all the screws holding top rails on. You will also spray the screws underneath the top ledges. These screws hold down the top plates. The top plates hold down the metal or resin rails of which holds ether the liner or bead track in place. Depending on which style you have. All screws can and should be sprayed with WD-40.

On Rusty walls: Next you will check the bottom of the pools wall. Look for rust coming through the wall. Any pool which shows rust coming through the wall will only be worse when liner is removed. This pool should be replaced. Rust on a steel wall is nothing to mess with and needs to be paid attention to. You may need to further cut away liner to look behind the wall. Obviously this cannot take place when pool is full of water. But it has to be done. Aluminum pool walls may have pitting and show tiny holes everywhere. This can be OK so long as you place a wall foam inside the wall before liner placement to protect against pitted area hurting the new liner.

On the Bead track: Bead track should be checked for worn pieces. A bead track piece is about 4ft long and fits atop the pools wall so that the bead of the liner can snap into it. Check the part the loops upward. See if it is leaning downward allowing a wide space compared to the rest of the track. If you see areas where track is starting to give and shows wear? You want to replace these areas with new bead track pieces. We recommend replacing the whole track if it is 5 or more years old. Or if 50% of the track is worn out. A J-Hook or V-Bead or EZ-Bead liners do not need a track as they just hang over the top of your pools wall by about a half inch. You do not even need plastic strips to hold these liners ion place. They just need the metal and or plastic rails that hold these liners in place.

On Skimmer and return cut outs:

This part of your pool will require the most attention when replacing a pools liner. Play Above Ground LLC knows that most pools have leaking issues in these areas. So many pools have been lost due to leaky skimmers and returns. When inspecting this area use a small screw driver. One with a #1 tip or even an ole, a pointing metal hand held tool. Something to poke the wall and see if it’s tender in the stained areas. When a skimmer or return leaks over time it will leave stains running

down the side walls. Check this area by poking and see if it is weak. If you are able to poke through easily then the wall is compromised. Many times it will be just staining and you are OK. Pay special attention and inspect around the openings of the skimmer and return carefully. Look for worn down metal where wall may be compromised. If the area shows signs of being compromised then attention will need to be made during a liner replacement. If the area shows obvious signs of damage they will need to be addressed. At Play Above Ground LLC we have a special wall repair kit that will allow you or an installation person to cut out the whole area and place our patent pending wall saver for a brand new skimmer and return wall area. This kit takes a worn out old skimmer area and allow bring it back to brand new. Coupled with our patent pending skimmer support stand this together will allow your pool many more years of swim time fun.

The main idea here is to make sure the area is sufficiently supportive and will allow liner replacement to take place. It is always a great idea to replace the skimmer and return with any liner replacement.

Some other important things to consider at this time are:

Liner accessories Floor Protection whether you’re going to replace or add floor padding. Floor padding can add a layer of protection between your liner and the base material and stop rocks and roots from penetrating your new liner. It’s one piece construction with no cutting, taping, or measuring – just take out of the box and lay over the base. Other materials force you to use tape to place together many pieces. Having it in one piece makes for easy installation.

Wall Foam You may want to replace or add wall foam. Wall foam can help maintain pool water temperature. It will also help retain some heat better than the metal wall itself. If your older pool wall is made of aluminum then chances are you may have small tiny holes in the wall. This is perfectly normal and placing wall foam is a great Idea.

Who built it? you will want to note what the manufacturer of your pool is. You may have this information from when you purchased your pool. If you’re not sure it’s best not to guess. Take pictures if you’re not hiring a professional. These pictures will help the sales staff knowing the manufactured pool you have. If your pool is an Esther Williams and or Johnny Weissmuller consider buying some liner lock. This will help you when it’s time to install your new liner. It holds the liner in place. This is something step 5 will touch upon more.

Pool Cleaners Some other accessories to consider might be automatic pool cleaner, pool lights and or an alarm. It’s always best to get everything done at the same time as the liner because it’s just easier since half the pool is taken apart.

Final note on Inspection: It is best to discover you need a whole new pool during an inspection even if it is the last thing you want to learn. Many times when it comes to above ground pool inspections. People discover many little things that add up and then pool replacement becomes a more practical option. Replacing an above ground pool also brings on many issues that will need to address. Please read “When you replace your above ground pool” for in depth answers to how you can replace a pool without having to build new decks and landscaping etc.

Once you determine that pool needs a new liner. Next you’ll need to measure the pool for a new liner.

If you have around pool, you will need to know the diameter and wall height. Oval and rectangle pools will require measurements for the length and width. You will also need to know information about the bottom of your pool. A standard floor has a covering (Floor Base where meets the wall) that is about 4 inches in height up the wall and 3 inches inward from the wall. Overlap lined pools tend to have larger coves and most overlap lined pools are built to fit universal overlap liners ranging from 48″-54″ in height.

Don’t Measure wall height on the inside! Measuring the wall’s height from the base of the bottom track to the top of the wall. Do not measure from inside the pool, always measure from the outside. Move any debris that may be in the way so you can measure from the base of the pool. Measure upward to underneath your pools top rail. This is your wall height. Next you will need the diameter, if your pool is round. Using the examples below, you will be able to determine the diameter of your round pool.

In this example, the pool has a total of 14 uprights. Since it is an even number you simply split that in half which is 7. So you mark the #1 upright and count 7 uprights over being careful not to count the first upright. Use a tape measure to determine the distance between the #1 upright and the #7 upright; this is your diameter of the pool.

In this example, the pool has 15 uprights. To get the halfway point you’ll need to first find the highest even number of uprights your pool has. In this example that number is 14. Simply count 7 uprights in either direction and be sure not to count the #1 upright when counting to the #7 upright. Use a tape measure to measure from the #1 upright to between the #7 upright and next upright which is the #8 upright. This is your pools diameter.

How to measure an oval pools length and width Notice in the pictures that sometimes your length measurement is from upright to upright and sometimes it is between two uprights.

Take your measurements from the inside of the pool wall near the top of the pool. Use a tape measure and measure from straight side to the other straight side (this is the width measurement) on the inside of the wall. Next

Use a tape measure from one curved end to the other curved end (this is the length dimension of your pool) in the center of the pool. Place the two dimensions together; this is your oval pools length by width measurements. Please note on oval pools: All manufacturers build there walls ion different lengths and have different upright locations. You might very well find for example that a 15’x30’ pool will measure 15’2”x30’4” and this is OK. This particular example the pool is 15’x30’ and you would get that size. If it is so far off that it makes sense to have next size then getting the next size is what you do. If it is between two standard sizes then chances are whomever built the pool to begin with did a lousy job and in this case you will need to rebuild pool.

So to recap a round above ground pool’s measurements you need the wall height, diameter and cove height. For an oval or rectangle you will need the wall height, length x width and cove height.

Section three: Liner research

This is where the vinyl hits the bottom of the pool. Which liner is correct for my pool? With the amount of choices in today’s liner market it is no wonder so many wrong decisions get made. We have taken this area and placed liners into categories of varying quality and terms the market uses.

A.

Virgin Vinyl: As the name implies Virgin vinyl is made of first quality material. Being the first use means it’s as the name implies the very best it can be.

B.

Processed Vinyl: Also as the name applies this material is made of recycled and non-virgin materials mixed together. Repurposing the liner material is not the best choice for swimming pool applications. Please research independently as this type of material is never mentioned during point of sales.

C.

Blue base/ White base: This represents the opposite side of the liner. You have the pattern side and then you have the other side. This can be ether white or blue in color. A white color can create a liner that has a high reflection appearance, a lighter look. Blue base is darker and gives a more rich deeper color contrast. Blue can also attract sun rays and warm water a little with its darker material.

D.

Heavy Gauge Liners: There are basically three types of gauge liners, 20g, 25g and a Heavy gauge liner. As this term implies the liner is a thicker offering. It is by no means a true representation of its actual gauge. It is more a salesman’s term only. Just because a liner says heavy gauge doesn’t mean it’s truly the thickest offering.

E.

Mil Thickness: This is the truest measure of a liners thickness. Many liners are manufactured to have varying thickness within each liner itself. A liner thickness is said to be ether 15 mil, 20 mil, and 25 Mil. This is one factor to consider when doing research.

F.

*Side vs floor thickness (What you do not know): Most liners produced today have a floor thickness and then they have a sidewall thickness. Side walls are always the thickest and is how the liner is advertised. Example a liner is advertised as a 25 mil liner. It has a sidewall that is 25 mil and a floor thickness

of 20mil. Shocking we know but it’s what people do not know that hurts. So ask the question. Any pool liner with a floor thickness and sidewall thickness of 2o mil or more is a very good quality liner. Some low quality liners out there can be 12 mil floor and 20 mil sidewall and get advertised as a quality 20mil offering. DO YOUR HOMEWORKBUYER BEWARE! G.

U.V. and antibacterial protection: Some manufacturers will add some chemical additives to the mixture process and this addition creates a liner that can repel mold/mildew and add a layer of protection against UV exposure. Great to have when your pool has 100% sunlight.

Liner Care: Maintaining proper water balance is the most important thin g one can do to prevent premature liner replacement. You extend the life of your liner by 50% more when following the guidelines below.

Maintain proper water balance 1. 2. 3. 4.

pH in the 7.2 to 7.6 range Total alkalinity at 80 to 100 ppm Calcium hardness: 200 ppm minimum Maintain the free chlorine residual between 1.4 and 2.6 ppm. nIf free chlorine drifts below 1.4 ppm, algae and bacterial growth can start and cause liner to be stained. Having a low pH of less than 7.0 should be avoided completely, this can cause a liner to form wrinkles, creators and with a greater probability when the pool's water is not stabilized for extended periods. 5. For this reason it is recommended that all vinyl lined swimming pools be periodically stabilized so that a minimum of 50 ppm be maintained. 6. Chemicals should never be mixed together and then added to pool water at the same time. 7. Because certain combinations of the different chemicals can cause bleaching of your liner and if the concentration is allowed to remain high this can destroy a liner in less than a couple months. 8. Always allow your chemicals to disperse throughout the pool by means of water recirculation, before adding a second chemical. We like to mention that it is always a great Idea to add chemicals into the skimmer so that they are transported through the pump and filter system first. This action will help with filtering high contrasts of chemicals and reduce the effects of any direct contact with liner. 9. Never drain your pool and leave empty for any reason other than to immediately replace the water or liner. Once a liner is exposed to sunlight, ether it will start to shrink. Over time a liner stretches into position and then gets firm. It will lose its stretch after being installed just by sitting in the sunlight. If allowed to shrink then when adding water to pool will collapse pool structure. 10. Avoid the use of abrasive cleaning agents or cleaning aids (such as steel wool, sharp bristled brushes, scouring pads, etc.) 11. Use only manufacturer’s recommended vinyl liner cleaner for removing accumulated soil at water line or other soiled areas. 12. Do not close your pool without circulating the pool water for several hours after your final addition of chemicals. Any chemical not fully circulated can accumulate and hurt liner.

Section four: Liner selection We are always asked what we would choose if it where up to us. Although we do make suggestions a pool liner selection is a personal choice. Given all the information in Sections 1-3 you can determine your liner choice based on its quality. There is hundreds of designs and they change from year to year. Selecting a pool liner is overwhelming to most. Some customers simply say they do not care as long as it is a quality liner. We do tend to go along with this random selection process because with quality in place you are best protected. Remember the most important qualities and choose one from this group. Check out some selections here.

Section five: Liner Installation OK, so we have arrived at installation. It is last in our guide but for you it may have been what brought you here to find out the most about. We like to think most people can do a liner replacement themselves. Yes it can be a little challenging but if you know about all the secrets an installer uses it will be easy for you. So you have the right liner and it’s the correct size. The first thing you want to do is empty the pool if it isn’t already done so. Whenever we go to a customer’s house for a liner change we often find that the pool still has a couple inches of water in it. This has to be removed and in a 24ft round pool one inch of water is about 350 gallons. So if there is two – three inches the water will need to be removed. If let onto the base it would soften the sand or stone base to mud and then you will be stuck waiting to another day and having to resurface. Goal one remove water left at the bottom and here is how you do it. 1. On the outside of the pool find a spot where the lowest part of the pool is and dig a hole underneath the base track until you meet the inside base. Make a small trench away from the pool so that the water can flow away from the pool. 2. Next on the inside of the pool cut a small hole above the area you just dug on the outside. Then reach your hand inside and move sand base to either side exposing the hole. Then cut liner in a way that lets a piece of the liner hang outside underneath the bottom track. You’re making a funnel for the water to travel under the pool. 3. Next go to the opposite side of the pool inside and start to cut along the top and drag the liner towards the hole. Making sure not to let the water flow onto the floor. Make sure it travels out the hole. Keep walking the liner towards the hole until it’s all gone. Now you have no water in the pool.

Now stretch the liner back out and cut into small pieces with a utility knife. Place the cut pieces into construction bags and remove all bags from the pool. Once your base is exposed two processes can start at the same time. 1. A. Remove the top rails if the liner you’re installing is an overlap, J-Hook or Vbeaded liner. If your pool is requiring a beaded liner and the pool has a bead track. Skip removing the top rails.

B. Under the top rails you will encounter top plates that attach to the top of each upright. Remove as many screws necessary to allow plate to release the coping rails.

C. Now remove top coping rails including plastic coping strips. Be careful if it is a windy day. Because once you remove all these parts the wall is free standing. You will also be left with removing the last of the top part of the liner. 2.

A. 2nd process will be to resurface the pool base (floor). You start by making sure the base is at least four inches high on the wall. Then tapers to about 3 inches of sand base everywhere else. Of course if its stone dust then it’s the same. Do this with a metal rake. Then take the back of a push broom and smooth the entire surface until the base is as smooth as you can get it.

B. Now take a water hose and soak the base everywhere. You want to make sure it is soaked real good. Almost to the point of turning to mud but no more.

C. Next take a metal tamper and start at the outside near the wall and tamp all around the pool. Once you’re done with the first ring. Tamp the same area again as this is the cove area and needs to be tamped double so it’s packed correctly.

D. Finish the rest of the base with tampers. E. Use the broom to blend in all the tamp marks and make as smooth as you can get it.

Steps A-E should be done with special care as not to disturb the surface you are creating. Many installers will be very careful and when time to spread out liner you want to be bare footed for sure. So you don’t affect the liner in anyway.

Sizing the liner It is liner sizing next and this is one of the more important parts of liner replacement. There is a seam that runs all along where the base meets the wall. Place this seam as close to the wall base as you can. Depending on specific pool and perhaps weather this may be right on the mark or it may be three inches away from the wall. It is Ok if three inches away.

Vacuum Trick Before any next step you want to place a wet vacuum with the hose to travel through the return opening from the outside in. Please the hose so it’s about 1ft from the bottom. Then tape around the opening to prevent air escaping. Do the same for the skimmer opening. It doesn’t matter if some air gets in. You want a little bit of air traveling into this area. Sometimes the suction can be too much and you need to take some tape off. So it doesn’t need to be taped perfectly.

Liner hanging Once the liner is sized up next will be to hang it on the wall. Now if your liner is a regular bead and you didn’t have to take the pool top rails off. Start snapping the bead portion of the liner into the bead track along the top. Don’t force it in anyway just simple snap it in place and continue all around. Pay attention to the material as you go. You want to make sure the floor material of the liner comes with you. Just make sure everything is straight as you go. Chances are if you did the first steps correctly then this will go perfectly. It’s when you don’t measure right or get wrong kind of liner for your pool that you run into problems. If your pool liner is a J-Hook or V-beaded you simply hang the hooked portion of the bead over the pool wall all around. As you place the liner atop the wall place back the metal coping rails

and discard the plastic coping strips if you are changing from an overlap to J-Hook. Once liner is on fully and everywhere is straight it’s time to place the top plates back on. Then you’re ready for vacuum and water. Turn vacuum on and let the vacuum suck air out behind the liner. This will like magic make wrinkles disappear. While the vacuum is working you want to gently go around the inside and make sure liner gets seated where it was sized. Once it looks in place perfectly. Place a water hose in the pool and turn it on. Let the water fill until the liner is seated permanently. Being a project at home you will wait until pool is half full before skimmer and return can be cut in. Once water reaches the pool wall and upwards couple inches all around. This is where you can shut off vacuum and remove the vacuum hose from the return. Be careful not to pull to hard.

Skimmer installation Now you’re ready to install the skimmer and return and if haven’t done so yet place back all top rails and cap components. When installing a skimmer you will place a small stool or ladder outside so you can get to the inside. The liner is being held down by thousands of gallons of water so no need to worry about liner not being stretched enough. Start in middle bottom by placing a skimmer screw through the skimmer faceplate and then through the liner and pre-cut holes on the pool wall. Easily found around the skimmer cut out. You can use a cordless drill and a #3 Philips bit. Do not tighten more than 80% tight with cordless drill though as it’s so easy to break a skimmer plate. Then finish by tightening the screws with a hand held screw driver.

Return installation The return is installed by pushing the assembly from the inside out and cutting the liner from the outside. Push assembly through the opening and tighten return nut on outside using large channel lock pliers. Not too tight because its PVC material and will break. Just enough to seat the rubber gaskets. Hook up your filter hoses and finish filling pool with water. It’s at this time you can test water and get game plan for chemistry going.

Congratulations! You’re done and ready for swim as soon as the pool is full. Congrats rookie on a job well done. If you should have any questions or need anything along your journey we are here.

www.playaboveground.com and www.abovegroundpoolbuilder.com