ENERGY SAVING TIPS This information is intended to offer you no-cost and low-cost ways to reduce your energy use and cost. The City does not recommend or endorse any products or materials. Home Performance with ENERGY STAR is an innovative whole-house approach to improving the comfort and energy efficiency of your home. A Richland Utility bill includes charges for electricity, water, sewer, refuse and storm water. The average Richland residential customer cost for utilities in 2005 was $1,783. Comparing utility bills is hard to do for several reasons. The electric and water portions of your utility bill varies for many reasons such as lifestyle, family size, weather, the size and energy efficiency of your home, energy efficiency of appliances, size of lawn and garden irrigated. Lifestyle has the greatest influence on energy use. Lifestyle variables include factors such as: the thermostat temperature setting for heating and cooling a home, whether night set back is used, the duration and temperature of showers, if irrigation timers are reset for changing weather conditions, if clothes are washed in hot or cold water, and if lights and other appliances are left on unnecessarily. What is energy? Energy is the capacity to do work. For electricity, the unit of measurement is a kilo-watt-hour (kWh). Each kWh at today’s rate cost $0.0570 plus 8.5% utility occupation tax. The formula to estimate electrical energy consumption is: power (in watts) times time (in hours) equals energy (watt-hours). There are 1,000 watthours in each kWh. For example, if you left a 100 watt lamp on for ten hours, you would consume 1000 watt-hours 1kWh, which costs $0.0570 plus utility tax. CLOTHES WASHING • • • • • • • •

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Up to ninety percent of the energy used to wash clothes goes toward hot water. Use all temperature detergents and choose a cool or warm wash for most loads. Use hot water for very dirty loads only. Always rinse with cold water. Do not use too much detergent. Pre-soak or use soak cycle for heavily soiled garments to avoid two washings. Match the water lever to the size load you use. If you plan to buy a new washer use the Energy Guide label to compare models. Look for models with water level and water temperature controls. Select a model with a rinse water re-use feature. Consider front loading, horizontal axis models, they use less hot water than top loading units. Ask for washers with the ENERGY STAR label. They use less energy, save money, and help protect the environment.

CLOTHES DRYING • • • • • • • • • •

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Air dry clothes whenever possible. Hang outside or use air dry Fill clothes dryer but do not overload. Shorten the drying time, if you have a moisture sensor, use it. Dry only full loads. Clean the lint filter before every load. Always exhaust the dryer to the outdoors. Check the venting system at least once per year and clean it if necessary. Dry your clothes in consecutive loads. Separate drying loads into heavy and lightweight items. Remove clothes that will need ironing from the dryer while they still are damp. Hang clothes in the bathroom while you are bathing or showering to remove wrinkles. If you plan to buy a new dryer use the Energy Guide label to compare models. Look for models with moisture sensor control and a cool down cycle that tumbles clothes in cooler air during the last five to ten minutes of operation which helps reduce wrinkling. Once available, consider a microwave clothes dryer. Microwave dryers offer faster drying at lower temperatures, less damage to fabrics, and possible drying of some dry-clean-only fabrics. Ask for dryers with the ENERGY STAR label. They use less energy, save money, and help protect the environment.

COOKING • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Cook with lids on pots, this keeps the heat in and speeds up cooking time. Match the size of cooking pots and pans to the elements on your electric range. Preheat your oven for no more than eight minutes. Try to bake more than one item at a time. Use a microwave or toaster oven for small items. Do not use your oven as a heater; it is very expensive and dangerous to do so. If you plan to buy a range consider a halogen cook top and a burner size adjustment feature. Automatic self-cleaning is less energy efficient than manual self-cleaning. Convection ovens cook at lower temperatures and are more energy efficient. Use cold water instead of hot to run your food disposal. Install a faucet aerator. Keep range-top burners and reflectors clean, they will reflect the heat better. Cook as many foods as you can at one time in your oven. Watch the clock or use a timer, do not continually open the oven door to check food. Use your microwave oven if you have one because less energy is used.

DISHWASHING Hot water accounts for 80 percent of the total dishwasher energy use. To reduce your hot water and energy use, here are some things you can do: • • • • • •

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Washing dishes by hand can use more energy than your dishwasher. Try to wash full loads. If you pre-rinse, use cold water and use the dishwashers short-cycle setting, don't pre-rinse but scrape off food, Use short-cycle for easy-to-clean loads. Select the air dry/power saver option or turn the dishwasher off at the beginning of the dry cycle and open it to air dry. Dishwashers today are at least 25 percent more efficient than models sold before 1994. The new models use between seven and ten gallons at an average of 2.2 kilowatt hours per load while older models use between eight and fourteen gallons at an average of 2.7 kilowatt hours per load. Install the dishwasher away from the refrigerator, which reduces heat transfer from the dishwasher to the refrigerator. If you plan to buy a dishwasher, be sure to check the Energy Guide label. Also consider these energy saving features: short/light wash and air dry features, and a booster heater which allows your home's main water heater to be set at a lower temperature setting When you turn it on, be sure your dishwasher is full, but not overloaded. Do not use the rinse-hold cycle on your machine, it uses more hot water each time you use it. Ask for dishwashers with the ENERGY STAR label. They use less energy, save money, and help protect the environment.

REFRIGERATORS AND FREEZERS • •

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Keep refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible. Keep them full, surprisingly it takes less energy to cool a full refrigerator or freezer than an empty one, provided it is not so jammed that air can’t circulate. Fill extra space with gallon jugs of water placed in the back of both the freezer and refrigerator. Always cover everything, humidity escapes from uncovered foods. Locate the refrigerator/freezer away from the oven, dishwasher or direct sunlight. Leave space for air to circulate around the condenser coils (usually located on the back or underside of unit). Check the inside temperature with a thermometer. The refrigerator compartment should be between thirty-five to forty degrees Fahrenheit, freezer compartment between zero and five degrees Fahrenheit. Manual defrost freezers should be defrosted when frost builds up to one quarter inch or more.

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Use the power miser or energy miser switches unless excessive moisture buildup on outside surfaces occurs. They turn off door style heaters that prevent condensation from forming on doors and prevent them from freezing shut. Cool hot food on counter before storing. Clean the cooling coils on your refrigerator and freezer regularly to ensure an airtight seal. Regularly defrost manual defrost freezers to maintain energy efficiency. Do not allow excessive ice build up on cooling coils. If your refrigerator or freezer operates continuously or has lost its cool, clean the condenser coils, check the defrost drain, and make sure the condenser fan is operating. If you plan to buy a refrigerator or freezer, be sure to check the Energy Guide label and look for a model listed in the Energy Efficient Refrigerator and Freezer Directory. Ask for refrigerators with the ENERGY STAR label. They use less energy, save money, and help protect the environment. Buy one with a power saver switch. Consider manual defrost units. Refrigerators and freezers listed in the directory are fifteen percent or more efficient than the Federal Appliance Standards.

AIR SEALING YOUR HOME •

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Test your windows and doors for air-tightness. Move a smoke pencil slowly around the frames and sashes of your windows and doors. If the smoke dances around, you need caulking and/or weather-stripping Caulk and weather-strip doors and windows. It is easy to do and relatively inexpensive. Adjust door weather-stripping to be airtight. Work your way around the door by inserting a drivers license or credit card between the door and the weather-strip. There should slight resistance as the card moves. Replace any faulty weatherstripping. Also, check the door latching mechanism for looseness. You can adjust the strike plate to make the door latch tighter. Use gaskets behind outside wall plates to reduce drafts.

FURNACE FILTERS •

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Proper filter maintenance is necessary to prevent expensive heating/cooling system repairs. If you ignore all of our other advice, don't ignore filter maintenance. Filters should be changed (or cleaned if they're that type) regularly. Filters are designed to capture dust and dirt from air passing through the system. As the filter does its job, it becomes clogged and will begin to slow the airflow. This can be fatal to a heat pump. Heat pumps depend on adequate airflow to avoid overheating, which can lead to expensive repairs. Lower airflow also reduces efficiency and increases heating bills. Don't leave out the filter to avoid having to change it. If you do, dust and dirt will build up on heating/cooling coils and lead to expensive damage. More efficient furnace filters can reduce airflow and increase energy use if your system was not designed for their use.

GENERAL INSULATION Forms/Types of Insulation Loose Fill (Blown): • Blown insulation materials are placed in the home by the use of a blowing machine and are usually applied by professional installers. They are most commonly used in attics in new home construction and in attics and walls in retrofit work. • The use of blowing equipment helps to effectively seal all breaks in the thermal envelope for attic insulation, especially when the insulation level is above the floor joists. • It is possible to apply loose fill insulation more lightly or with more air than recommended, giving greater coverage. In time the product will settle, resulting in an overall loss in thermal resistance from that indicated by its thickness at the time of application. • Cellulose, rock wool and fiberglass are forms of lose fill insulation. Batt and Blanket: • Batts and blankets are manufactured by using a binder with a fibrous material. • Blankets or rolls are available in lengths of 16 feet or longer and widths designed to fit snugly between standard studs spacing. • Batts are similar to blankets but are pre-cut to uniform lengths of four or eight feet for easy handling. • This form of insulation may be purchased with or without an attached vapor barrier. • The R-value of the batt or blanket is usually printed on the roll. It is available in various R-values, most commonly R-11 and R-19.

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Insulation of this form is bulky, so it is normally packaged with a compression rate of 6 to 1. The bonded fiber should allow the materials to return to its original thickness at time of use to insure that the thermal resistance will be met. These materials work best for long runs of unobstructed space between studs or joists when no existing insulation is present. They are most commonly used in wall insulation for new construction, floor insulation, and unfinished sidewalls in retrofit work. Rock wool and fiberglass are produced in batts and blankets.

Rigid Board: • Rigid board is most commonly used in commercial applications. It is used in residential work for flat or vaulted ceilings, below grade walls, slabs and exterior wall sheathing in new construction. WATER HEATING TIPS •

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Take up to a ten-minute or less shower instead of a bath. It takes about 30 gallons of water to fill the average bathtub. A shower with a flow of two gallons of water a minute uses only twenty gallons in ten minutes. Assuming you use half hot and half cold water, you would save about five gallons of hot water every time you shower instead of taking a bath. Set back your water heater thermostats to 130 or 120 degrees Fahrenheit if you have a dishwasher with a booster heater, 140 degrees Fahrenheit if not. If you run out of hot water, you may have to increase the thermostat setting. Turn off your water heater when you are on vacation if you will be away for more than five days (make a note to remind yourself to turn it on when you return). The age of your water heater can usually be determined by its serial number. If it begins A-83 the tank was built in January 1983 and B83 means February 1983. If it begins 8301, the tank was built in the first week of 1983. Turn faucets off immediately after use. We all tend to leave the faucet running while we wash dishes or shave. Turning the faucet on only when necessary can save thousands of gallons of water a year, not to mention the energy needed to heat it. Using a qualified technician, to lower the thermostat setting on your electric water heater, first turn off the circuit breaker to the water heater, next remove the upper and lower plates that cover the thermostats. Caution should be taken at all times when the cover plates are off. For added safety, treat the water heater as if it still has electric current through it. Push the insulation aside using something nonconductive. After the thermostats are exposed, use a flat blade screwdriver to set each thermostat pointer to the desired temperature. Make sure the upper and lower thermostats are set to the same temperature. Push the insulation back over the thermostat, replace the cover plates and restore power.

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If you don't have a water softener, mineral build-up in electric water tanks can many times become quite an energy waste. Scale will collect on the heating elements until it becomes quite thick, at which time it begins to flake off and settle to the bottom of the tank. Scale can become so thick that it will rise above the lower heating element, causing the element to be ineffective and reducing its service life. Mineral build-up should be removed by flushing the water heater periodically. As frequently as monthly, flush your water heater. To flush your water heater, first turn off the circuit breaker to the water heater, next use up all of the hot water in the tank by running the dishwasher or some other use. Turn off the cold water supply valve usually located at the top of the water heater. Open a hot water faucet, preferably a faucet located farthest from the tank, and leave it open. Attach a garden hose to the water tank drain valve, run the hose to a floor drain, or other suitable location. Completely drain the tank; the water should appear to be oatmeal. The drain valve may require replacement if it has never been used. Turn on the cold water for a few minutes and then turn it off allowing the tank to completely drain. Repeatedly flush the tank with cold water until the water flow contains no scale. Close the tank drain valve, remove the garden hose, open the cold water supply valve to refill the tank and open a faucet until all of the air is removed from the water heater. Finally, restore power. For older water heaters, insulate the tank on sides, top, and bottom. All water heaters can benefit by installing heat traps on the hot and cold water lines to reduce heat loss through the water pipes. Insulate all hot water pipes and the first three feet of cold pipe to the tank. Fix leaky faucets. If you replace your water heater, look for an energy efficient unit. Buy a water heater with thick insulation on the shell. Compare the energy guide label for operating cost information. If you run out of hot water on a regular basis, consider if your next water heater should be larger-check with manufacturer recommendations based on family size. Install low-flow energy saving showerheads. Install faucet that reduce water flow to adequate but lower rates in kitchen, bathroom, and utility room sinks.

ENERGY GUIDE LABELS Federal law must attach Energy Guide labels attached to new water heaters, clothes washers, dishwashers, furnaces, refrigerators, freezers, heat pumps and air conditioners. The Energy Guide labels for use on major home appliances, home heating and cooling equipment can make energy savers out of all consumers because they simplify energy use comparisons among various models. When consumers shop for appliances, they should look for models with the features they want, and then use the Energy Guide labels to compare how much energy each one uses.

The retailer should be able to help you find the wattage of the appliance. With that information, you should be able to figure out how much it will cost you to run the appliance you choose. However, before buying a new appliance with special features, find out how much energy they use compared with other, perhaps less convenient models. A frost-free refrigerator, for example, uses more energy than one you have to defrost manually. It also costs more to purchase. The energy and dollars you can save with a manual defrost model may be worth giving up the convenience. Use appliances wisely, use one that takes the least amount of energy for the job. For example, toasting bread in the oven uses three times more energy than toasting it in a toaster. The less energy an appliance uses, the more money consumers can save on utility bills month after month, year after year. FIREPLACES The warm, cozy fireplace is one of the biggest energy wasters there is. Fireplaces use a lot of air to keep burning; fresh, cold air will seep in around doors and windows to replace what goes up the flue. So, a fireplace can even cool your home down. Even when the fireplace is not in use, when the damper is left open while the fire burns out, or if the damper doesn't fit tightly, lots of air you have paid to heat will go up the chimney. There are some things you can do to minimize energy use if you absolutely must use your fireplace: • • •

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Close some of the interior doors and try to draw air in through empty or unoccupied rooms in order to provide greater comfort. Do not build roaring fires, they not only waste the fuel, but also the heat blasts its way up the chimney before you can benefit from it. A fireplace can be made more efficient by installing a heatilator that circulates room air through piping, which heats up the air, then returns the heated air into the room. Provide an adequate air supply or install an outside air combustion source, if practical, which will increase efficiency. Glass doors make a fireplace more efficient. Burn dry seasoned wood when available. Maintain stack temperatures above three hundred degrees for high combustion efficiency. When you do not use your fireplace close your flue, you should consider purchasing a fireplace plug. Do not use your fireplace for supplemental heating when your furnace is on.

THERMOSTAT OPERATION OF CONVENTIONAL ELECTRIC HEATING SYSTEMS Pay attention to the thermostat. A few degrees can make more of a difference in your heating energy use than it can in your comfort level. Keep the thermostat between sixty-five and sixty-eight degrees Fahrenheit. Chances are you will not notice a few degrees. Up to a three percent increase in heating energy use can be anticipated for every degree you increase your thermostat set point. THERMOSTAT OPERATION HEAT PUMP SYSTEMS Like most central heating and cooling systems, you control a heat pump from the thermostat. There are some unique things about heat pumps that make proper use of the thermostat important for economy, comfort, and durability. Heat pump thermostats are usually "two stage" thermostats (sort of two thermostats in one). The first stage senses that the temperature is below your setting and turns on the heat pump. The second stage senses when it gets colder yet, and turns on the supplemental heat. This happens if it's so cold the heat pump can't keep the house warm by itself. If you turn up the thermostat, you're likely to cause both stages to come on. This costs you money you don't need to spend. The key is to find the temperature setting that's comfortable and leave it there. Reducing the thermostat setting at night, or at times when the house isn't occupied is an effective way to save energy with any heating system. But with a heat pump you should only set back the temperature if you have a thermostat that is specifically designed for setback operation with a heat pump. When programming your automatic thermostat, keep in mind that there's probably no benefit to setting back the temperature any lower than 55 degrees F. Lower settings cause reheating the house to take too long. If you don't have a thermostat designed specifically for heat pump night setback or a properly set outdoor thermostat, we don't recommend that you set back your thermostat manually. If you do, You’ll activate the supplemental heat when you turn up the thermostat in the morning, offsetting any savings from night setback. If you want to set back your heat pump, we strongly recommend you buy a thermostat with proper controls.

HEATING SYSTEM PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE Just as your car needs periodic servicing to maintain its efficiency and reliability, a heating system should have annual professional servicing. Many heating contractors offer a service contract that provides this service at a reduced rate for the first several years after installation. These contracts often include extended warranties on the equipment as well. The outdoor unit of your heat pump or air conditioner needs to be kept clean and free of debris to ensure a good airflow past the coil. During the fall, be sure to keep the unit free of leaves. During the winter, you may need to clear snow from the base of a heat pump outdoor unit so air can enter at the bottom. (If this is a regular problem, the outdoor unit may need to be elevated on a stand. This is not a do-it-yourself job.) LIGHTING • • • • • • • •

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When not in use, turn out the lights. Don't over light, use natural light whenever possible-it's free. Keep windows uncovered during the day, rearrange seating closer to windows and trim back shrubs that block the sunlight. Use task lighting (desks, reading and food preparation areas) whenever possible. Dust off light bulbs, dirty light bulbs can reduce light output as much as ten percent. Remove unnecessary lighting where possible. Check your lampshades, do they absorb light or reflect it in the wrong direction. Capsylite bulbs use one-third less energy and last up to four times longer than standard incandescent bulbs. Fluorescents come in a variety of colors from cool white (bluish tone) to warm white (yellowish tone). In multi-lamp fixtures, use one high wattage bulb instead of two or more lower wattage bulbs. Switch to compact fluorescents in areas of your home that are used most. They are three to four times more efficient and last up to ten times longer. They often fit in the same fixtures and are available in most building and lighting supply stores. Replace incandescent outdoor lighting with low wattage fluorescent (with cold weather ballast), mercury vapor, metal halide, or high-pressure sodium lamps. Use timers, photocells, or motion sensors on security lighting. Instead of leaving outdoor lights on all night while you sleep, let motion detectors turn them on only when they detect motion. If security is a concern, leave a low-wattage light on all night. For maximum security, use a high-pressure sodium fixture on a timer or photocell. Dimmers (not usable with most fluorescent), programmable dimmers, time switches, and programmable time switches help save energy and are convenient.

WINTER ENERGY TIPS • • •

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Enter and exit your home quickly. Every time an exterior door opens, a large amount of heated or cooled air escapes, and outdoor air replaces it. Use sweaters and blankets if you feel chilly. For homes with high ceilings, circulate heated air if it using your furnace blower, ceiling or portable fan running at low speed. Circulating air can help evenly distribute warm air and reduce the desire to turn the heat up or cooling down. Other advantages of running blower fan are to improve air filtration, a constantly running blower will also create a slight pressure inside your home which can help reduce drafts and dust from entering your home. Keep drapes and blinds closed at night. Drapes add a very small extra layer of insulation to your windows. Turn louvers down toward the ground to help divert heat back into the room instead of trapping it between the blinds and the window Keep heating/cooling registers and grilles open and unobstructed by furniture. Close off unoccupied rooms and shut their heat or air conditioning vents (this is not recommended for homes that use heat pumps). Use kitchen, bath and other ventilation fans sparingly. Turn them off just as soon as they have done their job. Lower your thermostat to 68 degrees Fahrenheit or lower during the day and no lower than 55 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You can save about three percent on your heating energy use for each degree you reduce the average temperature in your home. You can save about one percent on your heating energy use for every degree you reduce your temperature at night. Keep windows and doors tightly closed. Don't let cold air seep into your home through the attic or under-floor access door. Check the door to make sure it is well insulated and weather-stripped. Keep furniture and draperies clear of baseboard and wall mounted heaters for safety. Carefully monitor and frequently adjust humidifier setting as the outdoor temperature changes.

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It is relatively inexpensive to cool most homes because most air conditioners operate at about 200% efficiency. Minimize solar gains by keeping drapes and blinds closed during the day. Large windows on the east or west exposure could have exterior roller shades or solar screens installed. Keep heating/cooling registers and grilles open and unobstructed by furniture. Try running the blower continuously on your furnace to circulate air. Raise your thermostat to 78 degrees Fahrenheit or higher Wear cool clothing.